(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys. So, today I'm here with the Barricade corner guards fitting all 1997 to 2006 TJ Wranglers, excluding the unlimited models. So, adding armor to your Wrangler is always a great idea when it comes to protection and these Barricade corner guards are gonna do just that by protecting your whole rear panel from any brush, any branches, or any other obstacles that you may encounter on the trail. So, these are gonna be pretty affordable when it comes to armor on the page at roughly $170. So, there are a couple of different styles as far as corner guards go. There's one like this that reaches from the taillight or the rear end of your Wrangler all the way up to the front of the door. There are smaller options that stop at the mid of the fender, and then there are options like this with an integrated steel fender on the side. Now, this is gonna be a less expensive option because it doesn't have that integrated steel fender, but I do like the fact that you are able to upgrade in the future if you'd like to. So, overall, I do think that this is definitely worth the money considering how much space that it's taking up, the aggressive off-road look that it's achieving, as well as the choice to give you options down the road to customize your Wrangler. So, install's gonna be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. There is a decent amount of drilling required, however you're just gonna need some basic hand tools and probably three hours worth of your time to get these things installed. So, speaking of that install, let's jump into it now.The tools that I used for my install were two clamps, PB B'laster, pair of needle nose pliers, a marker, an impact wrench, a Phillips head screwdriver, a center punch, a flat head screwdriver, a 6-millimeter, and 5/32-inch Allen Key, an 8-millimeter, 10-millimeter, and 17-millimeter socket, a drill, a 3/8-inch drill bit, a 7/32-inch drill bit, an extension, a quarter drive, and a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a Phillips bit, a 17-millimeter wrench, a trim removal tool, and a small pry bar. So, in order to get our corner guards installed, we are gonna have to remove a couple of things on the driver side, but we're gonna start at our taillight. For our first step, we're gonna take our Phillips head screwdriver and remove the four screws that are holding on our taillight lens. This is gonna give us access to the bolts on the inside of our taillight. And you wanna make sure that we are saving all of this hardware as we will be reinstalling everything. Once those are out, we can remove our lens and then we'll have access to the three bolts that are holding on our taillight housing. So, I'm gonna take a 10-millimeter socket and an extension to clear our housing and remove those three taillight bolts. So, after those are removed, we can pop our taillight out and then we can disconnect our harness. So, while we're still in the back, we do need to remove our license plate bracket. Now, we do need to remove our license plate first. This is gonna depend on the hardware that you have on what cord that you needed to use. I'm just gonna use a flat head screwdriver to remove these two bolts that are holding on our license plate. So, after you remove your license plate, you're going to have access to the four bolts that are holding on your license plate bracket. You can take a 10-millimeter socket, and if you wanna use a small extension, you can go ahead and remove those bolts. So, our next step is to remove our gas cap and then we're gonna remove our trim piece as well and then we'll be able to reinstall it once our corner guard is on. So, first you're going to remove the actual gas cap. So, after the four outer screws are removed, we can remove the four inner ones. After all eight screws are removed, we'll be able to fully remove our gas cap entry piece. So, our next step is gonna be to remove our fender. There are a series of bolts holding the fender onto the body. I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter to go ahead and remove those bolts. So, I'm using the 10-millimeter socket to remove this bottom bolt and I'm gonna switch over to my 8-millimeter socket for the rest of the bolts. So, now that we've removed the bottom bolt, we will switch over to an 8-millimeter socket. However, to access everything a lot better, I do wanna take out to our inner fender liner first. So, what I'm gonna do is just grab a flat head screwdriver and pry the inner fender liner. You can also take a trim removal tool. And I'm just gonna basically unhook it from the fender. So, once you get it started, there are two clips down at the bottom. I'm just gonna take a trim removal tool and remove those two clips so we can fully pull out our liner. So, once you have it untucked, we can fully remove our inner fender liner. Now we can continue up and start removing all the bolts that are holding on our fender with our 8-millimeter socket. So, I'm holding a plastic retainer on the back with a pair of needle nose pliers. Does not seem that this has a nut and bolt, there is a little retainer holding the screw in, specifically. So, now that we're at the last bolt on our fender, I'm going to switch back over to that 10-millimeter socket. Then after that bolt is removed, what we can do is fully remove our fender. So, in order to attach our corner guard, we will have to hold it up in place and attach our lower hardware so we can mark and drill those upper holes. There are gonna be two rivnuts down at the bottom here, but we are gonna have to widen the top holes. I'm gonna use 7/32-inch drill bit just to widen them up a little bit so we can get our hardware in and hold our corner guard up. So, now with a friend, we can go ahead and lift our corner guard up into place and install some of the lower bolts that are gonna go through our body at the bottom where our fender was installed in order to hold it in place so we can mark and drill holes. So, after you have your hardware holding your corner guard up in place, what I would recommend you do is grab some clamps and clamp the corner guard up against the body of your Wrangler to make sure all the holes are aligned. So, what I'm gonna do next is just take the remaining small hardware and attach it where our fender was bolted on. This is just gonna pull it up against the body just that much more so all of our holes that we marked to drill are accurate.So, now with a 5/32-inch Allen key, we can go ahead and tighten up all of these lower bolts. I just wanna tighten them up first just make sure that our corner guard is pulled in all the way, again, making sure it's lining up properly. Now, for the top bolts, you will need a 10-millimeter socket. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter deep socket. So, what we can do now is take a marker and mark where we're gonna drill our holes. We will have to go inside the Jeep just to make sure that all of our wiring harnesses and our carpet is out of the way before we drill, but first we are just going to mark where we need to drill. So, we're just going to start with the side and then we will move to the back once this is tightened down because that's just gonna line everything up on the back there. So, before you go ahead and drill, you will wanna go inside your cab area and pull your carpet back. We will have to attach a nut on the other side of there and you definitely don't wanna drill through your carpet. Also, on the driver side, there will be a wiring harness that runs up along the tub area to the back of the Jeep. You wanna be careful that you're not drilling through that wiring harness. So, what I'm gonna do, I also just took off the window to give you guys a better view of what I'm doing, but what I am going to do is just fold this carpet back, grab our wiring harness. It will be hooked into a couple of clips on the tub. And I'm just gonna pull this up and rest it on our soft top frame. You can also tape this up, bungee it up. You just wanna make sure that it's up and out of the way, so when we drill you're not drilling into your wiring harness. So now what we can do is take a center punch and go ahead and drill these holes out. What I'm gonna do first is take a center punch and create a divot, so our drill bit is straight when we drill and stays in one spot. Then I'm gonna take that 7/32-inch drill bit that we used to widen these lower holes and we're gonna drill a pilot hole. After you've drilled your pilot hole, you can step it up to a 3/8-inch drill bit for our final hole. Now we can go ahead and install our hardware. Now, I'm just gonna use a six-millimeter Allen key to tighten this up, get it through that hole, and then we can attach our hardware on the other side. So, on the other side you'll need your flat washer and then your nylon lock nut. So, after the nut's attached to the back, I'm gonna take a 17-millimeter wrench just because this is a tight area in the back and that same 6-millimeter Allen key and I'm just gonna tighten this down. Now we can move along the top and drill our holes out and attach our hardware. So what we're gonna do now is just attach all of our hardware on the side. So now that we're in the rear, we do need to drill out a couple more holes. Now, what I'm gonna do to make sure that this is lining up properly is just reinstall the four license plate bracket bolts just to make sure that it is pulling in more towards the body. So, if you do need to pull it just a little bit, what you can do is take a Phillips head screwdriver, or a flat head screwdriver, whatever is gonna fit through that hole and we can pull that just a little bit in and reinstall our bolts so we can hold that in place. Now, I'm just using that 10-millimeter socket that we used to remove these. So, not only is that gonna keep that in place, but it's also going to press this panel back up against the body. Also, with these in place, this is just to ensure that these are gonna line up when we drill out and bolt this in. Now we can do the same thing that we did for the side. We can take our marker, mark where we need to drill. We can take our 7/32-inch drill bit, drill our pilot holes. Then lastly, we can take our 3/8-inch drill bit and widen these holes. So, now we can attach the rest of our hardware.So, now for our last bolt, we will need to install the longest bolt we have down at the bottom right-hand or left-hand corner if we're on the other side. This just has to go through two walls of your tub here. So, once you get it through one side, you can get it through the hole that you drilled on the other side. So now we can go ahead and reinstall our taillight. So, first we're going to pass our wiring harness back through. We can plug that in on the other side really quick. I'm gonna use that same 10-millimeter socket. Just tighten that down. Now with a Phillips bit or a Phillips head screwdriver, you can tighten those down. Make sure not to overtighten them, so you don't wanna break the lens. Then we can install our license plate. So, taking off these that we had originally put there. We can line up our license plate bracket. Take our 10-millimeter socket. Just go ahead and tighten those down. Then we can reinstall our license plate with our factory hardware. Just gonna use my flat head screwdriver again to tighten those down. Now we can reinstall our gas cap. I'm just using that same Phillips bit that we used earlier. We can reinstall our gas cap. Then we can secure the rest of the trim. After that's secured, you can repeat the process on the other side and you're all set to go.So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe, and for more videos like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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