(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Barricade Vision Series Front Bumper with LED Fog Lights, Work Lights and 20-Inch LED Light Bar (18-20 Jeep Wrangler JL)
Barricade Vision Series Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier and LED Work Lights (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
Smittybilt Gen2 X2O 10,000 lb. Winch with Synthetic Rope and Wireless Control
Hey guys. So today I'm here with the Barricade Vision series front bumper with the LED fog lights, work lights and 20-inch light bar, fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. So adding a front bumper to your Wrangler can do a number of things for you, it can add some functionality to your Wrangler, it can add some protection as well as an aggressive off-road look. This Barricade Vision series from bumper is gonna do just that by adding a couple of recovery points, you get a winch plate, you're getting full front end protection especially with your grille, and you're getting a ton of auxiliary lighting which is really gonna light up the road or the trail ahead of you. So this is gonna be a lot different than the average front bumper or heavy duty front bumper on the page right now, and I do like that. It has a boxy effect to it, a boxy design with some hard angles and it has some riveted accenting giving it an aggressive appearance, and it's gonna be different. So it's gonna be for you guys that are looking for something different and not the run-of-the-mill aftermarket front bumper. So at the moment this is gonna be roughly $750 on the site and personally for what you're getting here I don't think that that's all that bad. So choosing a front bumper really comes down to personal preference in your design as well as the functionality that you're looking to get out of that bumper. Now compared to other options on the site, like I said, this is gonna be different. It's gonna have a different appearance to it and it's gonna come with some of those extra components that not a lot of other aftermarket front bumpers will come with, like this 20-inch LED light bar. You won't see that very often but it's still gonna come with all of the standard features that those front bumpers or aftermarket front bumpers will come with like the recovery points, the protection as well as the winch plate. So personally I think in a package this is gonna be a great option especially if you're not looking to piece together your front bumper and you want everything to come together with wiring harnesses and don't wanna worry about anything. So not to mention this comes also with a three year limited warranty to keep a peace of mind in your investment. So install is gonna be a moderate one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. There is gonna be some wiring, however most of it will be plug-and-play and just connecting it to the battery, but there is a little bit of cutting and splicing involved, nothing too hard nothing we can't handle. So speaking of the install, lets jump into that now. So your first step is going to be to take off the upper splash guard here. Now it's gonna be two pop clips, we don't actually have one on this specific Wrangler, so we're gonna jump to the next step which would be to disconnect your fog lights. So simple enough, all you have to do is depress the tab on your wiring harness and pop that off then you can tuck it down here out of the way and do the same thing for the other one. Just find the harness, depress the tab, they're pretty easy to take off, then we can tuck that out of the way as well. So after your splash guards are off as well as your fog lights are disconnected, we can start by removing the four nuts on either side of the frame horn with an 18-millimeter deep socket and I'm also using an extension here to give myself a little bit more room since it is curved around the edge. Now if you have the lower splash guard that will also consist of a couple of clips that you just have to pop out, and you can use a trim removal tool for the upper and lower splash guards. So once the inner hardware as well as the driver side outer hardware is off, we can remove the last two nuts here with that 18-millimeter deep socket. After all the hardware is off, we can go ahead and remove our bumper. So setting these two bumpers side-by-side you can tell right off the bat that they are physically gonna be the same size, however the new Barricade front bumper will be a lot more durable. So your stock bumper has the factory plastic as well as the steel crash bar in the back, but your new bumper will be made of a heavy duty hot rolled steel, with the black texture powder coat finish on it that's gonna resist any rust or corrosion on the metal, it's gonna resist any surface damage and it's gonna assist you in that off-road look. Now you're getting a bunch of standard features out of this as well as additional features that your stock bumper will not be able to offer you. So first off you have this hoop in the front, this is gonna offer you full grille protection and then you're gonna have a couple other features, like the welded D-ring mounts on the front for recovery, unlike the factory tow hooks that are really not safe or efficient, then you also have a drop-in winch plate. This is gonna be able to hold a winch with a up to a 12,000 pound pulling capacity and it's also something that your stock bumper is unable to give you as well. This will also come with some upgraded lighting. So you will have the built-in fog lights, the LED lights on the outside compared to your fog lights on the inside of the bumper here, but this will also come with some plates that you can remove to put 3-inch cube lights in, which we will get to in just a little bit. And then you also have the two accessory light mounting tabs for that 20-inch light bar that does come with this package, and not to mention you have all of the riveted accenting helping you with that off-road look. So enough with these two bumpers, let's bolt up our new one. So our first step is to remove these block off plates at the front so we can install our cube lights. So you will need a 4-millimeter Allen key, there is also a provided Allen key in the kit, however I'm using a 4-millimeter. We are going to remove these button head bolts on each of the block off plates. Once those four are removed, we can remove the plate and set that aside. So we're gonna install our new light, making sure that it's straight here. Now we can take our longer hardware and thread that through. The bumper will be threaded but they also provide us with hardware as well to mount up to the back. So now you can take a 5-millimeter Allen key and tighten those down. So once your light is in position, you may have to take a rubber mallet and just gently tap it around the side just to make sure that everything is sitting flush. Now we can go ahead and tighten those down with the same 4-millimeter Allen key that we use to take them off. So now we gonna do the same thing for the other side. And you may have to give it a couple of taps with a rubber mallet just to get it seated. And you can take your hardware that we have from the floor. Now we can insert the bolt with the flat washer, then we can grab a flat washer, lock washer and a nut here to thread onto the bottom. So you can snug that up so that stays in place, and we will be able to adjust it a little bit so leave that loose for now and we can do the other side. So now we can do the other side. So after those are on there, we can place the light bar inside and grab our bolts, lock washer and flat washer and thread that into the side of our light bar. So you can grab the other side while still supporting the light bar. So in order to have full range in motion and to be able to adjust your light bar for your specific beam pattern, if you want it down like a fog light or up as a more or less high beam, you want to pull the light bar all the way back in the bracket so it's clearing that front bolt and nut that is mounting it to the actual bumper. What I'm gonna do is just keep it as straight as possible, we can just tighten that down. And then even though it is still tightened, it is on a pivot point so you can tilt it up and down. So now we can take our 13-millimeter wrench, put that on the bottom nut there and tighten down the top bolt with our 13-millimeter socket. Do the same for the other side. Perfect. So now that our light bar is attached and our light cubes are attached, we can go ahead and mount this up to our Jeep. So now you can grab a friend because this bumper is pretty heavy and we can mount this up to the Wrangler, lining up the two outer studs. So what I would recommend to do first is to secure the hardware to the studs to make sure that everything's lined up, and that your bumpers on there while you're securing the other hardware so you can attach your flat washer, your lock washer, and you're gonna attach your nut on the back of there and we are going to make sure that everything is loosely secured and then at the end we'll tighten everything down. Now we can thread in our bolts here. Make sure that you have the lock washer and a flat washer. The lock washer is going to put pressure on the bolt head and make sure that the bolt does not thread out from vibration over time. We're gonna thread those both in and then we can do the same thing for the other side, and all set to go. What I also do like about this bumper is the fact that you don't have to relocate your vacuum pump, you can keep it there. A lot of front bumpers will have a plate here where this will interfere with it, so you won't have to get a bracket to move that. So after everything is threaded on, we can go and tighten everything down with a 16-millimeter deep socket. So after everything's attached we can move on to the wiring. Now, for the outside lights, that's gonna be the hardest wiring. Those are gonna be the only lights that you do have to splice into a connection somewhere, and that's gonna be our horizontal lights on the outer portions. So Barricade does provide us with two wiring harnesses, one's gonna be for the negative and one will be for the positive. Basically what they do is connect two of the lights and you can run them to wherever you want. If you wanna run them to the fuse box, you can do that to have it on a switch. If you want to run it to the battery and just have them battery-operated, that is also up to you. So what I am going to do is individually run them into our fog light wiring harness, so whenever we actuate our fog lights those will turn on. So since we are splicing into our fog light wiring harnesses, we actually will not need this extra loom of wire, so you can put this to the side. If you wanna use this at a later time, this will be handy for you. So I would definitely keep these but we're not gonna use these. So what I'm gonna do is actually cut our harness. Now we have obviously extended our OEM fog light harness here, but I do want to tap a quick disconnect into our main harness. So if we ever go back to stock ,we still have our OEM wiring harness here, but if we ever want to take our aftermarket front bumper off, we can just quickly disconnect it just like we can here. So what I'm gonna do is just cut both of those wires and get rid of this butt connector in between here, close as I can. Just cut the OEM connector right off, then we can move it back and get this butt connector out of the way. All right. So after that we can go ahead and strip our wiring. So what we can do is grab our quick connectors and we can strip that as well. What we're gonna do is put some heat-shrink on here that will come in handy in minute, then we can take a butt connector and attach it to our main harness. The same thing for our ground wire. So now what we can do at this point is take our ground on our OEM harness and our ground on our quick disconnect that we'll be connecting to our fog lights on our bumper, and we can connect those two. So now we can take our harnesses and connect it to our main wire here. So you will need to outsource for some wire as well as some electrical connections. I would recommend butt connectors as well as quick disconnects, female and male. Once those are on there we can go ahead and crimp it that down. That seems pretty secure. Now we can move on to the positive. So once those are connected, I'd recommend to heat shrink the butt connectors if they are heat shrink and as well, and put a heat shrink cover over that as well. So I'm gonna go grab my heat gun, we can do that next. So in this process try not to burn the wires. Keep it a close distance away. All right. So that seems pretty good. We can move our heat shrink over and start with that. So since there is a little bit of a gap, what we're gonna do is just take some electrical tape and make sure that these are sealed. After that is finished we can move on to our harness. What we're gonna do here is cut off these connectors because we don't need these connectors, these connectors go to the other harnesses. We wanna use the other harnesses later down the line. Make sure that you keep these so you can connect them in the future, however we are going to connect a quick disconnect for this harness to go to this harness. So what I'm gonna do is chop off the two connectors here. If you are gonna use these at a later date, I'd recommend to pull this cover up and cut a little higher up, probably about two inches up just make sure you have enough wire to wire them back in, but we are not doing that, so I'm just going to cut them right at the connector and I'm gonna throw those aside. Now we can strip our wire and we can grab a male connector since we do have the female on our OEM harness and we can attach the clip disconnect. So you do the same thing for the positive. All right. So once those are connected you can see that we can connect these harnesses here. I'm not gonna connect them now. We're gonna do the other side and then we can wire up the rest of our lighting. So we're gonna do the same thing for the other side, cutting off our connector here as close as we can to that butt connector. Put that aside. Get these butt connectors off of here. So now that we're finished wiring up our connectors, we can go ahead and attach them, obviously black to black and power to power. So after we're done wiring the outer lights into our OEM fog light harnesses, we can start with the other lighting. Now you actually will receive wiring harnesses for these, you don't have to cut and splice which makes it super easy. All you have to do is plug it into your accessory lighting and run it to your battery and run the switch through the firewall, making it super easy. So we are going to start with our two cube lights down at the bottom which will be the bigger harness since we are wiring both of those into one harness, and then we'll move on to our light bar. So at the moment this looks like a mess of wiring. So basically as a breakdown you will have your two connectors, these will plug into your lights, then moving up the harness it will come into a relay. So out of that relay you'll have a fuse and then you'll have the two wires that will connect to the positive and negative terminal to your battery. Also coming out of that relay you will have your switch and this is what we are gonna run through the firewall. So grab your two connectors. You can put the rest of the harness aside for the moment. And we can connect these into our accent cube lighting. So you can tuck that behind. So after these are connected, we can go ahead and move to connect the light bar so we can wire everything up to our battery at the same time, and then we'll be able to go back and clean up the wiring a little later. So now our light bar is gonna be the same exact connection except we're only going to have one. So once those are connected, we can move into our engine bay and start connecting our wires. Now we can open up our hood. So we have access to our battery and our firewall. So now that we are in the engine bay, we can run our wires down. It's easier to run them down and plug them in than putting all of these wires through a tiny hole and getting them into the engine bay. So we're not gonna connect anything just yet, we're just going to put it where it's supposed to be. We can grab our connectors that we will be connecting to our lights. You should have three wires. Two will go to your fog lights or your two cube lights, and then one will go to your light bar. So you can actually start by tucking on of those behind there. In between your air box and your power steering pump is a good place to run a wire through, and that'll go actually down behind the grille where you can grab it and pull that through. Now if you don't have small hands like me, you can grab a hanger or something to actually grab onto the wire and run that through. But it is actually a pretty decent opening where you can put your hand through and grab the wire. Plus gravity is on your side. So once you have those go through, you can start to detangle and pull the rest of the harness through. Now we wanna make sure to keep our switch wire out of the way and untangled from our regular wires, so we can pull that back now. Move that over to the aside here. These are the two wires that we'll be running into the firewall, we'll wire a little bit later. So we will be running our switch wires through the firewall on the other side, so depending on your personal preference how you wanna clean everything up, what I usually recommend is to take some zip ties and zip tie it to this top harness here, looks very clean and it keeps everything out of the way. So at the moment we can just fling those over because those will be going to that side, and we can make sure that everything is in position to wire up to our battery. So you might have to grab a little bit of slack, we do have a lot of wire here. I'm just going to put the relays on the other side. You will have tabs on here on your relay so you can mount them up to wherever you like them, and you may, that's also gonna be with your personal preference on cleaning up all your wiring. So now you can grab your switch wires and run them through your firewall. It will depend on your wrangler, however you will have multiple holes back here that you will be able to run a wire through the engine bay into the cab area. We have one in particular right here. This is going to pop out at the bottom pedals, so we are going to just run those through, and then we will worry about those in just a minute when we need to wire up our switch. So now we can connect our leads to our accessory battery terminal. I'm taking a 10-millimeter socket and just removing one of those nuts there. We're gonna do the same thing. I grabbed the deep socket because this is not short enough, the stud is not short enough to allow me to take off the nuts. So tighten that down. After those are connected we can pull these out of the way, dump them over on the side of the battery, and move on to the interior where we can connect and attach our switches. So now that we have our switches in hand we can go underneath to where the clutch pedal is, that's where our wires actually came out of the firewall, and we can go ahead and connect these and tape these on our dash. So now we can connect our switches, tuck that wiring is back, and you'll be able to clean up that wiring, you will have to do all of that at the end, then we can peel back our tape. And then we can, this seems like a good location. Stick that there. And what we can do is go back inside of the engine bay and tug these so that they are tight and we don't have anything interfering with our clutch pedal or our brake. So that's gonna wrap it up from my Review and Install on the Barricade Vision series front bumper with the LED lighting, fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. For more videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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