(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$674.99 (each)FREE Shipping
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Hey, guys. So today I'm here with the Barricade HD rear bumper with the LED fog lights, fitting all 2016 and newer Toyota Tacomas. So, adding a heavy duty rear bumper to the rear end of your Tacoma can offer you a number of different benefits. And this one by Barricade is going to be a very cost-effective choice to do so. So, like I said, this is going to offer you a huge range of different benefits, including full rear end protection because of the heavy duty materials that were used. This is also gonna stick out a little bit further than your factory bumper, which is going to provide a little bit more protection to your tailgate as well as your tail lights since they are a little bit more recessed. Now, this is going to be perfect for somebody who's looking for that rear end protection while they're out on the trail or even out on the street. And overall, with the powder coat and the whole design of the bumper, I definitely think that this is gonna add a very aggressive, off-road, and even utilitarian look to the back of the Tacoma.So one of the main features of this bumper is gonna be those two LED cube lights on either side. And this is gonna be perfect for somebody who's looking for that extra visibility out of the rear of their truck. If they're looking for some bright reverse lights as well as just a work light, this is going to be perfect, they do have an IP67 rating so they are gonna be waterproof and they are gonna last a very long time. Now, this rear bumper is also gonna be compatible with all of the factory features that came on your factory rear bumper, including those backup sensors. You do get a cutout for your hitch plug, so you still are able to use that, and it is compatible with that factory hitch.Now, what I do like, in comparison to those other options, is carrying over all of those factory features. Now like I said, a lot of other options are only going to carry over some. They may only have pre-drilled holes for that backup sensors and not a cutout for your hitch plug. Now this also, in comparison to some other choices, has a cutout down at the bottom here. This is going to allow very easy bed access when your tailgate is up. So other choices will not have that cutout, and it even has a little ribbed surface here for a little bit of extra traction. Now, what I would have liked to see out of this rear bumper is a couple of recovery points, maybe two welded D-ring mounts on either side. Some more expensive choices are usually going to integrate recovery points in their design, in conjunction with all of the other features that you may see on this bumper. So, overall, for the equipment, as well as the functionality and features of this bumper, I do really think that it is set at a really good price point, roughly $700, and it comes with everything that you need to install it, including that rear license plate light, and a plug and play wiring harness for those two LED cube lights.As far as install is concerned, this is gonna be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, there is a little bit of splicing as far as wiring goes. However, it is pretty simple. So you're gonna need some basic hand tools and probably two hours worth of your time. So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.Tools that I used for my install wear a pair of wire cutters, strippers, and crimpers, the provided Allen keys, a Phillips-head screwdriver, a longer flathead screwdriver, a trim removal tool, a 1/4-inch drive and a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a 13-millimeter, 14-millimeter, and 19-millimeter open-ended or box wrench, a 12-millimeter and 10-millimeter deep socket, an 18-millimeter, 12-millimeter, and 10-millimeter shallow socket, and an impact wrench.So the first step to taking off our rear bumper is to take off our license plate. Now, I'm gonna be using a Phillips-head screwdriver, but it will depend on what hardware is holding in your license plate. So now we can head underneath the Tacoma. We do need to unplug our wiring harnesses for our license plate light. So I just have a flathead screwdriver here to help me depress this clip, since it is not that easily accessible. So, once that clip is depressed, we can pull back and unplug that wiring harness. All right. And then we can do the same thing for the other side. So while we're underneath here, we do need to disconnect our hitch plug. There is going to be a main wiring harness, all you have to do is depress the clip on the top and pull back. So while we're here, we're also gonna disconnect this wiring harness that's connected our bumper to our frame here, or our tub. So, what I'm gonna do is just depress that clip and pull back. Then we can take out our hitch plug, there are gonna be two metal tabs that are holding this into the bumper. So all we have to do is just push those up and forward, and then the hitch plug will come out the front of our bumper, you just have to pinch those down, kind of wiggle it out the front. So once it's unclipped it should pull out of the bumper just like that.So the last thing we have to do underneath here for right now is remove the two inner clips. I'm gonna be using a trim removal tool, we can just wedge it in between, pull that down, and pop that out. And we can do the same thing for the other inner clip. So the last clip that we have to remove is right in the middle where we took off our license plate. The license plate light housing also has to come out in order for us to get this trim piece off. So you will need a flathead screwdriver and we're gonna head back underneath the Tacoma. So on either side of the light housing, there's gonna be a clip that's holding it into the bumper, just like our tow hitch wiring harness. So, what I'm gonna do is just depress that clip and move it forward. So once you have one clipped through, the other one should be pretty easy, and then you can wiggle that. So once those clips are through, we can pull it out of the front of the bumper just like we did with our tow hitch, then we go do the same thing for the other side.So now we can remove the 10 bolts that are holding our bumper to our frame. So on either side you're going to have two bolts in the middle that we have to remove. Then on the inside where our license plate was sitting we have two bolts on the frame down there. And then underneath, on either side, you're gonna have two more. So you're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket and an impact wrench or a hand ratchet, and we can remove all 10 bolts. So after all those bolts are removed we can go ahead and remove our bumper.So before we go ahead and mount up our new bumper, I did wanna tell you guys a little bit more about it, especially in comparison to your factory rear bumper. Now right off the bat, this is gonna be a lot more durable since this is made of a 3-millimeter thick steel plate construction, and it's gonna be able to take a hit on the trail or even on the street a lot better than your factory plastics would. This is also gonna have a 2-stage black texture powder coat finish on top, and that's gonna protect the steel underneath from any rust or corrosion. But what it's also gonna do is create a heavy duty, aggressive, and off-road look to the rear end of your Tacoma. Now this is going to accommodate a couple of different features from your factory rear bumper, including those backup sensors. There are gonna be mounts and pre-drilled holes in here. If you do have to swap over those factory backup sensors, this is compatible with the factory hitch, and you are also able to keep your factory hitch plug since there is a cutout in the middle. What I also do like about this is that it comes with a license plate light, you don't have to outsource for one, and it is very easy wiring that up, which I'll show you guys in a second. What I do really like about this bumper is the two cutouts on either side. And this also comes with the two 3-inch cube LED lights. Those are gonna be a five watt Cree LED. Very bright. They're also going to have a 6000K color temperature, and they're also gonna be IP67 rated. So that IP67 rating is just gonna mean that they are dustproof as well as waterproof. So any kick up on the trailer on the street is not gonna hurt they Cree LEDs inside. And if you take a dunk with the rear end of your Tacoma, those LED lights inside are going to stay protected. So enough about these two side by side, let's go mount up our new bumper. So before we mount up our bumper, I wanted to make sure that there was enough room to work with so we can wire in our license plate light for our new bumper. Now there's a number of different ways that you can do this, you can tap into the tail lights, you can tap into wiring harnesses that are underneath the bed of your truck. But what I'm gonna do is tap into our tow hitch plug wiring harness. So, again, there's a number of different ways to do this. I'm gonna use some vampire clips that are compatible with spade connectors. So, if in the future we have to take off our bumper, we can quickly disconnect them. Now, if you are looking for a more permanent solution, you can use some butt connectors. And I would recommend to put heat shrink on them, electrical tape, as well as some sheathing, just to keep them protected from the elements. So what I'm gonna do is tap into the running light , that's gonna be our green wire. I took a test light and made sure that this is our running light. So, whenever your running lights are on, your license plate light will be on as well, and then we can tap into the ground as well. So you are gonna need a pair of wire cutters, strippers, and crimpers, and then we can go ahead and wire these up. So what I'm gonna do now is take this vampire clip, we're going to attach it to the green wire that's gonna be for our running lights. Now, you can find this at any automotive shop or store, or you can find this at your local hardware store as well. And I'm just going to wrap that around and clamp it down with a pair of pliers. And then you wanna make sure that it's in the channel. And take a pair of pliers, just make sure that wire is spliced into. And we can do the same thing for the ground. All right. So once both of those are on, we can move on to putting a spade connector on our license plate light. So what we can do is take our light that's provided by Barricade, strip the ends of the wires. You're gonna have a positive and a negative [inaudible 00:11:19]. Then we can grab our spade connector. You could also find these at a hardware store. Once that is set in place, we can take a pair of wire crimpers, and crimp that down. All right. Then we can do the same thing for the negative [inaudible 00:11:40].So before we go ahead and install our rear bumper on our truck, we do need to get our lights mounted up first. And what we're also gonna while we're on the table is install our plugs for the pre-drilled holes for our backup sensors. Now, if you do have backup sensors in your factory bumper out of the factory, then you will need to swap them over. And Barricade does provide you with small Allen key hardware in order to install them on the bumper. So what we're gonna do as an overview, we're going to install the brackets onto our cube lights, and then we're gonna install those brackets and our cube lights on to our bumper. They will have cutouts on either side, with mounts, so we can go ahead and mount those up.So, what we need to do is take this U-bracket and insert it inside the fins in the back of this light. So we do need to line that bracket up with the two holes on either side of our light. And then we can grab our hardware and thread that in, but first we need to get those lined up. So that looks pretty lined up. So then we're going to take our nut that needs to be threaded on the back of our Allen head bolt and insert that into the light. There is gonna be a little insert that's going to act like a wrench once we tighten down our bolt. So then we can insert the bolt, on the side, through the light, through the bracket and carefully thread that into that nut there. You're gonna need a little patience for this. What you can do is take a flathead screwdriver, just to get it started and hold it in that insert. Take your large provided Allen key that came with your light and start to thread that in. So once you get that threaded most of the way in, and it's starting to back itself up on the flathead, then we can move the flathead to the outside of the nut, just to make sure that it's staying down in that insert, and then we can continue to thread that in until it's tight. So we can do the same thing on the other side of the light. So then we can take that nut, drop it down into place, you might have to jiggle it around, make sure it's sitting flush. It's kind of like a game of get it into. You need to use your flathead, trying to get it seated. All right. So it's seated in there. So we're gonna let it sit there, get that nut in place, grab our provided bolt, thread that through, take our Allen key, start threading that. Once it's backing itself on to that flathead, we can move it to the outside, keep it in that indent in that setting there, and tighten that down. So now your bracket is attached, and you will be able to move it and adjust it. So we can do the same thing for the other light. All right. Then we can grab our nut, drop that into place.So what we're gonna do now is mount up our light inside our cutout. There is gonna be a mount with two holes, you can choose whatever hole that you want to mount your light up to, depending on where you want your light to face. But first we have to put this bolt in. So what I'm gonna do is just take this U-bracket, bend it on down so we can fit the bolt in. There will be a small cutout at the bottom of the light. Then we can reposition this, it's gonna be quite difficult to get the bolt in when the fins are closest to that U-bracket. Then what we can do is thread our wire on through. There will be a cutout on the honeycombs large enough for that wiring harness to go through, then we can place this down on in. So what you can do next is take your nut and thread that on top, adjust it where you want your light to be. So once you have your light positioned where you want it, then you can take a 14-millimeter wrench for the bolt head side, and a 13-millimeter wrench for the nut side, and go ahead and tighten that down.So while we're here we can install our plugs for our backup sensors. Now as you can see there is a mount here. If you do need to mount up your backup sensors from the factory, you are gonna be supplied with eight button head bolts in order to do that. But we're just going to push our plugs through, and then we can do the same thing for the other three.So, at this point we're ready to mount up our rear bumper. Now, if you do not have a factory hitch, you will need to utilize the brackets and they're going to bolt to your frame bolts. We have a hitch, so we're just going to mount ours up. So now we can bolt up our bumper. Like I said, if you're utilizing the brackets without the factory hitch, you will need to bolt that up to the large silver bolts or stainless bolts on the side. But I'm gonna use our provided hardware, with our smaller washer to insert the bolt up through the frame into the bumper, and then I'm gonna use the larger washer on the back, and the nylon lock nut to secure that down. Now we're not gonna tighten anything down just yet, we wanna make sure that all of our hardware is in, and then we can go ahead and tighten that up. So, now we have to secure that top hole in the side of the frame here. I'm gonna use the same bolt, but you're gonna have two large washers with this. It's gonna go through the side of the frame, and you can secure down the washer and the lock nut on the other side. Now we can secure on the other side down, and then tighten everything down.So now we go ahead and tighten everything down. You're gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket or wrench for the bolt head, and a 19-millimeter socket or wrench for the nut side. Now, I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter wrench because that's going to give me the easiest access, and then an 18-millimeter socket for the bottom here. Now, for the top I'm gonna be using that same 19-millimeter socket, but I'm gonna switch to a hand ratchet, just because there's limited room on the inside of the frame. And we can do the same thing on the other side. So what we can do now is attach our license plate light and our hitch plug. So I'm going to route those wires through the hole in our bumper for our license plate light, and it's gonna have prongs on either side that are gonna keep it positioned there, you can just press that into place. Then we can do the same thing for our hitch plug on the other side, make sure it's oriented in the correct way. Then we can push that in place. And there will be retainer clips on the outside of this that will hold it into the bumper. Now we can head back under and connect those. So now we can plug our negative lead into our negative vampire clip, same thing with our positive, then we can plug in our hitch wiring harness. And then now we can move on to our upper fog lights.So what we're gonna do now is wire up our fog lights. Barricade does provide you with a plug and play wiring harness, which I really like, out of this kit. So you don't have to outsource or do any splicing and any extra wiring, all you have to do is plug them in. We do have to route them from our battery up front in our hood all the way back to our rear bumper though. So you're gonna take the two ends that are going to plug into your fog lights down through your rear bumper. We're gonna route them down through the hood into the wheel well, along the side body of the truck, and eventually when we get to the back we'll go ahead and plug those in, but first we need to route them through. So we're gonna drop these wires in. So once those are through this wheel well here you should be able to reach them up right above your strut. So these are gonna come down right near your strut. And then what I'm gonna do is actually route them behind this flap here. This is gonna be part of your inner wheel well, or your inner fender liner. And this is gonna keep the wires tucked up and nice looking so they're not flapping around in the wheel well. Gonna keep it pretty close to your frame and where we want to route these wires. So, then we're just going to pull the loom of wire through, up until we have the end of the harness in our engine bay. So as you can tell, moving up we do have a relay here as well as an inline fuse and two leads for our battery. There will also be an external wire that will wire up a switch, I disconnected it for the time being so our switch is not damaged in the process. So once your wire has reached the back of your Tacoma, what we can do is just plug those in. So we can do the same thing for the other side. And once that's clicked in we can move up to the front, connect our terminals, and run our switch wire.So now we can connect our leads to our battery. I'm gonna start with our positive terminal. So I'm using a 12-millimeter deep socket as well as a 1/4-inch drive ratchet, gonna remove the accessory nut on the terminal. So then we can move over to the negative terminal. Now you're not going to have an accessory on your terminal on your battery, your ground is gonna be over on the side on your body. So, I'm going to remove that bolt with a 10-millimeter socket. We can do the same thing with our negative. All right. So once our leads are connected we can take our switch wire and run it through the firewall. So what we can do is run our switch wire through our firewall. There is gonna be a large grommet down here with a main wiring harness going through the firewall already. So we can pull that back, and wedge our switch wire through that hole. So once you get that main part through, you can go into the cab area, and right above the clutch pedal or your brake you will find that switch to the firewall. So like I said, the switch wire will come out on the left-hand side of the driver cab area in the footwell. So after that's through, we can go ahead and connect the end of our switch wire that has our switch connected to it. There's gonna be a little pop clip like that. Then we can take our switch, it is gonna be powered already.So what we can do now is take this backing off of our adhesive on our switch, put that aside, and we can find a good mounting location for this. So right next to our steering wheel we do have a flat location. So we can just press down on that for a couple of seconds, that should be good. So when you wanna turn your lights on, you can turn them on, when you wanna turn them off, you can go ahead and do that as well. So now what we're gonna do at this point is clean up all of this wiring, and then we can throw our license plate back on.So the last thing that we have to do is mount up our license plate. Now you are provided with retainer clips. We are going to pop them into these two square holes here. So your factory hardware may fit in the retainer clips, ours did not. So I am outsourcing a button head bolt, just a smaller bolt that's gonna fit in those retainer clips, and I'm gonna use an Allen key in order to secure our license plate down. All right. So after your license plate is on there, then you're all set to go.So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Freight Notes. Freight items can only be shipped within the continental 48 states, no expedited methods. What is freight shipping? Your Answers are Right Here.
Fitment: 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions