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Body Armor 4x4 HiLine Series Front Bumper (16-23 Tacoma)

Item TT6408
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hi, guys. So today we're checking out the Body Armor 4x4 Highline Series Front Bumper, fitting all 2016 and newer Toyota Tacomas. So if you are in search of an upgrade to the front-end of your truck, you're looking for some better utility, better styling, and even some better protection, this option by Body Armor 4x4 is gonna be a great choice to take a look into. Now, just like I said, this is going to offer all of those features. We're getting a solid construction upfront made of a steel plate material. You're getting a nice textured black powder coat finish on top to protect the steel underneath from any rust or corrosion, but that's also gonna help out with a more off-road and heavy-duty look and that skill is going to do a lot of good when it comes to protecting your truck on the front-end if you do take it out on the trail or even when you're just driving around on the street.Now, this is also going to offer two recovery points on the front. You have a winch plate on the inside if you're looking to add some utility to your truck, and this is even gonna come up with a mount for a 20-inch light bar if you're looking to add on as far as auxiliary lighting is concerned. Now, I do also like the fact that it has a smaller bull bar up top. Not only is this gonna give you extra styling, but it is also going to offer that extra protection that you may be looking for, for the front end of your Tacoma. Now, what I really like about this is that it's in the middle ground as far as front bumpers or front end protection is concerned.Now, there are options available for bull bars, but this is going to offer a little bit more than that. Obviously this is going to be a front bumper. This is going to give you that protection that you need, but in comparison to some of the more heavy-duty front bumpers that take up the whole front bumper area, this is going to require a lot less modification. So if you're not looking to do a lot of modification but you're still looking to get the benefits of a front bumper, then this is going to be a great choice for you. Now, as far as pricing is concerned, this is gonna land at roughly the $700 mark. But in my opinion, I think for everything that's included in the kit, all of the features and the quality of this front bumper, that that's very well worth the price.Now, there are other options available on the page that are very similar to this that only take up the front portion of the front bumper here. Now, those are usually going to just be a little bit different. They may not require any modification as to where this one does. Now, I personally like the fact that this one does. Even though it's a little bit more work, you can see that this is going to have a very flush and a very clean fit. And then on the other hand, some less expensive choices, like I mentioned before, are usually gonna be for us some lighter front-end protection and not necessarily a full bumper like this. So it may be bulbar or a bulbar with a skid plate. They may have different features, but, again, this is going to offer a lot more as far as utility and protection, but it's not gonna break the bank at the same time.Now, when it comes to install, like I said, this is going to require a little bit of modification, just some trimming on the bumper. It's nothing huge. So I'm gonna give it a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Nothing you can't do in your driveway or your garage in about two hours with some pretty basic hand tools. So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were an electric ratchet, a straight edge, a pop clip removal tool. side cutters, an impact wrench. Painter's tape, pair of needle nose pliers, a marker, an 18-millimeter, 13-millimeter, and 12-millimeter wrench, quarter-inch drive ratchet, a 5-inch extension, a 19-millimeter, 14-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 12-millimeter, and 10-millimeter socket, a flathead screwdriver, a body saw, an angle grinder, and a tape measure.So our first step is to take off the air dam and the skid plate. Now, we don't have an air dam on our Tacoma, but if you have one on yours, you're gonna need a 10-millimeter socket for that. Then we can head underneath to our skid plate using a 12-millimeter socket, and I'm also gonna use my impact wrench to remove it. So there's gonna be four bolts that are holding on the skid plate, two in the back that might be a little bit difficult to see because they are a little recessed, and then there's gonna be two in the front. Now, when you remove these, the front does have hooks that the skid plate is going to hang on, so just be aware of that while you're removing all these bolts. This last bolt, I recommend to support it. And then it's gonna drop down. Kind of let it hang there for a second. And then we can slide it off the hooks in the front and completely remove it.So since we will have to remove our bumper, while we're down here, I'm gonna remove the two bolts on the inside that are connecting the support arms to the bumper cover. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to remove those two. And then we also have two on the outside of the bumper that are going to be connected to the inner liner. Now we can remove the one on the outside that's connected to the liner and then we're also gonna have one on the corner as well. So I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket for both of those. And then we can repeat that on the other side.Next, we can take off our upper grille. I'm gonna start with these two 10-millimeter bolts in the center using that same 10-millimeter socket we were using before. Next, we can take off the two clips on either side of the grille. I'm gonna use a clip removal tool or a trim removal tool in order to take these off. It should just pop out. Same thing for the other side. So because I am working on a TRD here, there is a wiring harness that's connected to the body from the grille here. So I'm gonna use a pair of needle nose pliers and remove these two clips so I can pull it away from the grille and disconnect it up the plug. Just to press those clips and push down. You could also use a flathead screwdriver. I find it a little bit easier to pinch the clip with pair of needle nose and push down.All right. So once that's disconnected at the grille, we can disconnect this at the plug. We just have to press down and pull back. It makes it a little bit easier to disconnect it from the grille. So after all the hardware is removed, what we can do is lift up on these two arms here and just give it a good pull back. It might be a little bit difficult at first, but it's only held in by a couple of clips. Same thing for the other side. And then we can put this to the side. So a little bit later in the process, we are going to have to trim some of our bumper. Now, before we take it off and while it's fitted on the Tacoma where it's supposed to sit right now, what I'm gonna do is just place some masking tape on here and make a mark where we need to cut so that we're prepared for later. So I'm gonna start putting masking tape on the top of this surface here. We're gonna have to measure about 20-millimeters in. So what I recommend to do is just if the bumper is painted right here, just cover this whole painted part. And then we'll measure out in just a second.So I'm using painter's tape. It's a little bit easier. You can also use masking tape for this. So we can just continue this process and follow this body line all the way down. Also gonna cover up a little bit at this corner. We will have to cut directly to this corner. Just a second. We'll make a mark for that. So what we're gonna do now is measure about 20-millimeters up or 2 centimeters and make a mark. Now, this is gonna be from the front of this plastic piece. And I'm gonna continue to just do this along the bumper and then we can take a long, straight edge and make a straight line. So with a straight edge, what we're gonna do is essentially just connect the dots on the top and then we'll move to the sides in just a second. And try to keep this as straight as possible.So what we're going to do now is make a line from this junction, this corner body line over to our main line that we just marked. Now, I have two lines here. The body does curve or the bumper does curve over this way, somewhat. So I did make a lower line. So if we need to cut more in the future we can go back and do that, but we don't have to cut all of that right away. So what I'm gonna do is just connect this junction to that line with my straight edge. So we're gonna be right on this lower line here. And then we can follow this down in that body line there.Now we can start to remove our front bumper. I'm gonna start in the inner wheel well by removing this bolt that's holding on our inner fender liner and our fender here. It's gonna be a 10-millimeter socket. Next, there's gonna be clicked down at the bottom. I'm gonna remove that with a flathead screwdriver and a clip removal. So you kind of have to put a little bit of pressure on the back there, and then that should slip out of place. And at this point, you just wanna make sure that the inner liner is completely disconnected from the bumper.All right. So it's slipped out of that clip there. Slipped out. So next we can disconnect this front part of the fender. As you can see, there's a junction right here that splits our quarter panel from our front bumper cover. We need to disconnect the couple of clips that are holding on the front of the fender on the bumper side. So I'm gonna just take it that soft pry tool, just get this inner liner out of the way so we can access those clips from the back. So I pushed back the upper liner just a little bit. It might be helpful to turn the wheel all the way in. Now, what gonna do is pull on the fender or just put a little bit of pressure on it while I take a flathead screwdriver and depress the tabs that are holding on at the front of the fender. Now, they are gonna be a little bit deeper in the bumper, so it may be difficult to see, but I'll show you in just a second.So these two tabs are what you're gonna have to press in, and those are what's holding the fender to the bumper cover. Now we can repeat that on the other side and then move to the middle of the bumper. So while we're at the center of the bumper, before we disconnect anything, what I'm gonna do is disconnect our fog light wiring harness, just depressing that clip and pulling back. And then there is one clip that's holding on the harness to the center support. I'm gonna take that clip removal tool or trim removal tool and just take that off because that is connected to our bumper. So now we can remove the clips that are holding on the front part of the bumper. There's gonna be four in the center here and one on each side directly under the headlight. I'm gonna use a trim removal tool or that same pop clip removal tool in order to take them off. You can also use a flathead screwdriver in order to take these out. Whatever works best for you.At this point, with the help of a friend, we can go ahead and remove the front bumper. Now, it is gonna be attached on that junction there at the fender by a bracket, so all you have to do is pull it outward, give it a good tug, and then we'll be able to fully remove the bumper. Next, we can remove this plastic piece on our crash bar. Now, it's just held in by a couple of clips so you just have to depress. They're pretty easy to depress by hand, or you could also use a flathead screwdriver.Next we can remove the front part of this aluminum crash bar here. I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter deep socket and I'm also just gonna use a small extension in order to give myself some room. Now, there's gonna be three studs where we have to remove the hardware from, and then we can do the same thing on the other side. So there's a clip holding the support bar from the crash bar to the inner liner here. I'm use a pair of needle nose pliers and just disconnect that. Same thing for the other side. Now we can remove the main center section of our crash bar. Next we and remove the crash bar mounting brackets. There's gonna be three studs on here as well. And I'm gonna use that same 14-millimeter socket and that same extension to give myself some room.So we are gonna have to relocate this cooler. We're just gonna have to push it a little bit inward towards the radiator or the AC condenser here. So we have to remove the two bolts that are holding it in place. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket, my electric ratchet, and also a 5-inch extension just give myself a little bit of room. You might not need the extension over on the passenger side, but you definitely will need it on the driver's side. So behind this inner liner here in the wheel well, there's another bolt that's holding on the cooler lines. Now, you may be able to move the cooler enough backwards in order to mount up the brackets, but I like to take out this bolt as well, gives me a lot more movement, and then we can reconnect this at the end. So what I'm gonna do is just get this little liner out of the way using a pop clip removal tool, and that's gonna expose the bolt. Now, because we are in the inner wheel well, this may be a little bit difficult to see, but it's gonna be right up on top of the frame here. I'm gonna take a 12-millimeter ratcheting wrench. You could also use a socket here. We're just gonna go ahead and remove that.So now you can see we have a lot more movement with our cooler here. What I'm gonna do is pull this out so we can attach our welded nut plate. This is gonna be our relocation bracket. There's gonna be a stud that's gonna go in the factory mounting location. And while I'm here, I'm actually gonna take the factory bolt. We don't have a lot of space here where the bracket is tightened, so I'm actually just gonna put in that factory bolt first, then we can put on the provided washer and the provided nylon lock nut and thread that into place. Now, I'm gonna snug this up in the plates using a 13-millimeter socket. So then we can repeat that for the other side.Now, for this one, you don't necessarily need to put the bolt in first, but you can if you want. Now we can push this back into place, line up those factory bolts in the factory location, and thread those in. And we can tighten them up with a 12-millimeter wrench. So now we can start working on the bumper. I'm gonna take out this center plastic piece before we get to cutting. So what you're gonna need is a flathead screwdriver on either side. I'm gonna take out these two clips that are holding in this main plastic piece. I'm just gonna depress that clip and pull back. And do the same thing for the other side. So now that we have the two retainer clips out of either side, what we can do is remove or disconnect the remaining outer clips. Now, these are just going to attach to the bumper. So what I'm gonna do is take that same flathead screwdriver and just push forward on that plastic piece once that clip clears the bumper. And we can just do this. Do that for all of them. Now, because the bumper is laying on its face, it's gonna wanna push back. But once you get most of these, you should be able to start disconnecting it pretty easily.So there's gonna be ones on the top as well. And it's gonna be the same process, just depress that clip and push back on the tab. At this point, now that all of those clips are disconnected, we can start to pull up on this plastic piece. You may have some that are a little stubborn. Now that our plastic piece is off, we're ready to cut our bumper. Again, we're gonna cut on our line. Remember to at measure twice or three times before you cut. And if you're unsure with your measurement, cut a little bit under, leave a little bit of room to work with, and then we can go back, we can fit a and test it, the bumper with our bumper cover here, just making sure that that lines up. So if you're unsure of it, just make sure to undercut. But if sure of your mark, we can go ahead and start cutting. I'm gonna use a body saw here and we can continue to cut up on that line. Now, take your time with this. It is gonna be a decent process in order to get this straight and making sure that it's cut clean.Now, after that middle section is cut off, what we can do is just take an angle grinder, or you could use sandpaper and do it by hand. We're just gonna clean up the edges of the plastic. Sometimes it gets a little like gnarly when you take a body saw to it. So what I'm gonna do is just clean up some of these edges and then we can take this tape off and put our trim on, and then we can get to installing our bumper. This kind of evens it out too, like if you have some unevenness of your cut, this'll even it up. So at this point we can re-install our bumper cover just like we took it off and then we can go ahead and test-fit our new bumper. If we have to trim any more, we can. And I'm just gonna put a clip at the front just to hold it in place. Or you can come around the side and pop this into its retainer. You should hear a little click. You can take the tabs for the fender and give them good press. Same thing for the other side.So we can start securing our front bumper cover back to the truck. I'm gonna start with these clips. I already have two at the front just because that was helping me guide the rest of the bumper into place. But we can secure down the other four clips, two more in the front and then one underneath each of the headlight. And then while we're up here, we're also gonna re-secure this wiring harness here. And then we can head to the wheel-well. So what we can do is just tuck this fender liner back into place. We're gonna have to kind of push it into place. So you may have to push the inner fender liner back into place. You can go ahead and secure the clip down and then the two other bolts using that 10-millimeter socket. I'm gonna start with the bottom one then we can secure the one up at the top. Now we can install a new bumper.So what we can do now is take this trim and we can align where we cut. This is gonna create more of a clean appearance. So I'm just gonna use a pair of snips and pull the bumper away. That's why we didn't secure this just yet. And we can just trim that up with the snips. So last but least, we can just secure this last clip from our bumper to our fender liner, secure that down with a 10-millimeter socket. Same thing for the other side. So at this point, if you're installing a winch or a light bar, now is the time to do it. There are light bar brackets included in the kit and they would mount up to these tabs over here. And same for the winch, winch plate is included. We are not installing either, so I'm going to mount it up directly to the factory mounting points. This is gonna sit on the factory side studs. So we can take our factory hardware and thread that into place. So in order to reach the other side, you may have to take off the shroud here. It just consists of a couple of clips. So I'm gonna take my clip removal tool that we used before for the rest of the clips and just remove that one down in the middle. And then we have one up top that's in the radiator support. I'm gonna take a pair of needle nose pliers and just pinch that clip and pull back. All right. So we can just pop that out of the way just for the time being and then we can thread on the other two bolts.So we're not gonna tighten those up just yet. We wanna make sure that the long bolt that's supposed to go through the subframe is through first. So this is gonna be the bottom mounting location. It may be a little bit difficult to see, but if you pass that through the frame to the other side, we can go underneath the truck and secure it with the flat washer and lock washer. Then we can just secure the flat washer and nylon lock nut to that longer bolt that goes through the frame there and then we can repeat this on the other side and then tighten everything up. Next week and tighten everything up using an 18-millimeter wrench and a 19-millimeter socket for the frame bolt. So then for the top ones, we can use the same 14-millimeter socket that we used to take them off with. So if you took off this cover, what you could do is just re-install it. There are alignment pins and clips that you can align, and then we can take those clips that we removed. Just pop that back into place. Same with the other side. Now, at this point, if you wanted to install the front license plate mount, you can do so. The bolts that are provided are a button head bolt. It's a 6-millimeter Allen key, and then you also have small retainer clips for the bolt that would mount up your license plate. Now, this is gonna be state by state, so if you'd like to mount this up, you can do that at this time using the provided bolts on the winch mount here.Next we can reinstall our grille. There are gonna be alignment pins on either side to line up with the headlights. We have to give it a good tap at the bottom. Then we can take our provided pop clips, attach those to either side, and same with our bolts. I'm just gonna thread these into place, install these clips on either side. Then we can tighten up those top two screws or bolts using that 10-millimeter socket that we used to take them off. What we can do now is just to re-install this harness, pop the clips back into their mounting location, close up the hood, and then we can reinstall our skip plate. What we can do now as we install our skid plate. We're gonna line it up with those hooks. And then we can grab our factory hardware and thread that back into place. It might be easier to secure the back ones first. Once those are threaded in, we can just tighten those up with a 12-millimeter socket. Once those are tightened up, then you're all set to go.So that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this, and always keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Exciting Off-Road Styling
      • Over Rider Grille Guard Hoop
      • Built-in Winch Plate, Rated up to 10,000 lbs.
      • High Strength D-Ring Mounts
      • Heavy Duty 3/16-inch Steel Plate Construction
      • Black Powder Coated Finish
      • Accommodates Factory TRD Skid Plate
      • Allows for 20-inch Dual Row Led Light Bar
      • Bolt-On Installation - Trimming of Factory Bumper Required
      • Fits 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma Models


      Exciting Off-Road Styling. Update the appearance of your 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma by installing a Body Armor 4x4 HiLine Series Front Bumper. With exciting styling that enhances the appearance of the stock front bumper, this HiLine Series Bumper looks perfectly at home on both the street and trail. Designed with a built-in 1/4-inch winch plate that is capable of supporting a 10,000 lb. winch, this high clearance Bumper will accommodate a factory TRD skid plate.

      Light The Night. The Body Armor 4x4 HiLine Series Front Winch Bumper is the perfect solution for night-time trail runners, as it will accommodate a 20-inch dual row LED light bar. Please note lights are not included - sold separately.

      Heavy Duty Construction. Body Armor 4x4 manufactures their HiLine Series Front Winch Bumper to precise specifications from 3/16-inch thick mild steel plating for superior strength and rigidity. The Bumper is then completed in a high-grade textured black powder coated finish for durability and long lasting corrosion resistance.

      Bolt-On Installation. Body Armor 4x4 engineered their HiLine Series Front Winch Bumper to be a direct bolt-on replacement for the original stock bumper reusing the factory hardware and mounting points. Please note that you will need to trim the factory bumper for installation. The install can be completed in about two hours with just basic hand tools and the help of a friend.

      Application. This Body Armor 4x4 HiLine Series Front Winch Bumper is designed to fit 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma models.



      Body Armor 4x4 TC-19339

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Front Bumper
      • Mounting Hardware

      Customer Reviews (70)

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