(approx) a Day
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$1,685.99 (kit)FREE Shipping
This Teraflex 3-inch Suspension Lift Kit with control arms, track bar, and shocks is for those of you that have a four-door 2007 to 2018 JK that are looking to run a 35-inch tire on your Jeep. This lift kit is really the perfect size for running a set of 35s. If you did wanna run something a little bit larger like a 37, you're gonna have some clearance issues. And if you wanted to go a little bit smaller with the 33, you can probably get away with a smaller lift kit than this one. So, again, that 3-inch to 3.5-inch is really the sweet spot for running 35s. And if you are looking to run that size tire, this is gonna be an excellent lift kit to choose. This kit includes pretty much all the components that you would want to run on your Jeep to ensure that you're gonna have something that works really well both on-road and off-road, rides comfortably and really isn't cutting any corners.Now, for all of that, you are gonna pay a little bit of a higher price than some of the other choices out there, but in my opinion, it is absolutely worth it for not only the quality that you're getting here, but also the completeness. So, there are going to be quite a few components that you see on the table here and this isn't even everything. I left a couple of duplicate pieces out just for space. Let's kinda go over what you're gonna be receiving with this lift kit. Right over here, of course, you have your coil springs. These are what are going to provide you with that three inches of lift. You're going to have two in the front, two in the back. That's going to be the heart of your lift kit. Over here, you're going to have a set of control arms. These are going to be front and rear lower control arms for the Jeep.So, as you lift your Jeep, you're gonna roll the axle a little bit. Also change where the axle sits in the wheel well and by adding a slightly longer control arm, that's going to help fix some of those issues. Now, these are not going to be adjustable control arms. They also don't have a spherical joint on one end or the other, so there are some upgrades that you can go with from a control arm stand point, but these are going to be a really nice fixed control arm that are so going to fix your pinion angle and your caster angle upfront and that angle in the rear to make sure that the Jeep is still going to ride and handled the way it should.Over here, you have a rear track bar bracket. There are two different brackets that you can get from Teraflex. This is the better one by every measure. This is going to attach to the axle in a total of three different locations, so it's going to be very, very strong and very, very stiff. It's, of course, going to do the job it's supposed to do, which is moving your track bar mounting location up a little bit, which will change the roll center. Again, that's suspension geometry that you wanna get a little bit closer back to factory just to make sure that the Jeep rides properly. But if you have a track bar bracket that's going to raise up that mount and not attach in enough places, not be stiff enough, you can actually get a little sway out of the rear end of the Jeep, which can be very uncomfortable, especially at highway speeds. So, this is going to be very, very solid for you while doing the job.Over here, you're going to have your longer sway bar end links. Of course, you want those to be longer with that new taller ride height so that your sway bar angles are proper. You're going to have not just the rears like in some kits, but this is going to include all four both front and rear. At the front here, you have a new front adjustable track bar that is going to be a forge track bar. It's incredibly strong, way stronger than the factory track bar, so you're not gonna have to worry about any bending issues. It's also going to be adjustable and that'll allow you to completely recenter that front axle underneath the Jeep. And as you can see, it has a bend and a clearance there, so you're not gonna have any rubbing issues with that front differential cover.Over here, you have the shocks that are included with this kit and these are the Teraflex 9550 VSS. And the VSS is vehicle-specific shock. So, these are going to be very specific to your four-door JK and they're not just going to be some random universal shock. And what that means is you're gonna get a very comfortable ride out of the shocks. As you can see by the banding on the shocks, these are a nitrogen-charged shock and the nitrate charge inside the shock is there to eliminate any sort of foaming or cavitation that can happen inside of the shock fluid when you're working that shock really hard. So, even though if you are somebody who does a little bit of a higher speed off-roading, heats those washboards out in the desert, these shocks are going to be able to handle that without ending up with any sort of shock feed.Those are some of the main components that are in this kit, but you're also going to get all of the other little stuff that makes a huge difference. Over here, you're going to have some brake line extension brackets. Those are, of course, very important with the new taller ride height when you're going off-road, especially if you're disconnecting that sway bar, you're going to have a ton of articulation with this new suspension system and you wanna make sure you're not pulling a brake line tar. Those new relocation brackets are going to accomplish just that for you. And over here, you're going to have your bump stop extensions. So, these are for the rear, these ones are for the front. So, you always want to make sure that your bump stopped correctly for your tire size and also for your shock size. So, if you're running a 35-inch tire with this lift kit, these extensions are going to be perfect for you. They're going to ensure that your tires and the contact with the body of the Jeep, damaging the tire or the Jeep, and also they're going to make sure that you're not going to fully compress one of these shocks, which can damage a shock.Along with everything that you see here, as I said before, they're going to be some other components that I'm just not showing you, a lot of the hardware and the supporting pieces that allow you to get all of this stuff installed and working on the Jeep really, really well. Now, for the completeness that you're getting here, for the quality that you're getting here, I already mentioned that you're gonna pay a little bit more than some of the other lift kits out there. This comes in at right around that $1,500 mark. Again, for what you're getting, I think that is a very fair price. This is very high quality components and a very, very complete lift kit. This kit is going to be a two out of three wrenches for the installation. It does come with new longer lower control arms for the front of the Jeep, so there's gonna be a good bit of disassembly and then reassembly to do when installing this lift kit, but we're gonna show you how to do that in just a second.All right, thanks, Ryan. And now let's get started. We're gonna begin by completely disassembling the rear suspension in our Jeep by removing our shocks, disconnecting our track bar, removing our springs and our upper control arms on our Jeep JK. Then we'll go back and go ahead and reassemble everything with the new products in our kit. For this installation, you will need a good assortment of open-ended wrenches and sockets with extensions and ratchets or impact guns, cutting device, a pry tool, and a good dead blow hammer. Now, as you can see, we have our Jeep supported on our lift. You can do this at home with jack stands. Just make sure that you practice safety by safely securing your Jeep at all four corners on jack stands. You don't wanna be under this thing with it just sitting on a jack. Now we also have two pull jacks under our rear axle assembly. We're gonna be using those when we lower our axle bound to get our springs out and to get our new parts installed.Now, with an 18-millimeter socket on our impact gun and ratchet and an 18-millimeter wrench, we're gonna get our lower shock bolts out. And with the 16-mil on a extension and your ratchet or impact gun, you can remove the upper shock bolts. Now, using that same 18-millimeter socket and wrench, we're gonna go ahead and get our lower end links bolts out. Now, with a 19-millimeter on the outside, you can use your 18-millimeter socket on the inside and remove the nut. The 19 will hold the stud from spinning. And now with a 21-millimeter, go ahead and get your track bar disconnected and don't forget your tab nut on the back. All right. Now, with your 10-millimeter, go ahead and disconnect your brake line brackets to give us a slack to drop our differential down. All right, now we're gonna go ahead and drop our whole axle and differential assembly down. So we can go ahead and pop our springs out. We can get our upper control arms out and then we can start reassembly with our new parts.With a 21-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the bolts that attach our upper control arms in place. All right, now let's start reassembly with our new parts that come in the kit. We're gonna start with our upper control arms. Now, I only took one out to begin with. I'll get the other one out when I go to put the other one in. I only did this so our whole axle assembly doesn't twist on us and cause damage to our U-joints or anything else. So let's go ahead and get this control arm in. We'll move over to the other side and get that one swapped out, then we'll go ahead and get our springs in place.All right. Now with the reinstallation of our upper control arms, we're not gonna tighten down our bolts just yet. We're just gonna snug 'em down to hold our control arms in place. When we put our vehicle back down on the ground with our wheels and tires on it, then we'll tighten everything down. This will keep it so we don't tear our new bushings in our new control arms. All right. Now we're ready to get our new springs in place, and you wanna definitely make sure that you get your isolator from your factory springs. They usually drop out with the spring. Sometimes they'll stick up into place, but just definitely make sure that you have these on before you put your new springs in. Now you just slide up right in the spot where your old spring came out.Now, while we have our shock and our end link out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and get our track bar relocation bracket in place. Now, to get this in place, it's gonna slide right over our factory track bar bracket. It's gonna utilize a U-bolt on our axle tube, the factory bolt that went in here and we have to take our lower control arm bolt out because it's gonna utilize that also. Now to remove the bolt from our lower control arm, we're gonna use our 21-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench to do so. Let's go ahead and pull the bolt out, slide our bracket into place and replace the bolt.All right, now with our lower bolt installed, once again, just like on our upper control, and we're not gonna tighten it just yet. We're gonna wait till we get our vehicle on full weight on its wheels then we'll go back and tighten it down. All right, now the hardware supplied in the kit, you're gonna get this crush sleeve which is gonna go in the space of our old bracket, that way it doesn't crush down and it keeps it nice and tight. And the new bolt, slide it through with the sleeve in the middle, secure it on the back with our lock nut and our washer. Now, to tighten it up, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter wrench and socket. Now to get our track bar back in, I'm gonna lift up on our pole jack a little bit to get the hole lined up. I know I still have a U-bolt that has to go in here. I will get that on as soon as I get the pole jack out of the way and we'll tighten that down. After that, we'll go ahead and get our shocks and our end links in place. Now we can use our factory bolt and go ahead and secure this in place.All right, now we can get our new end links in place. I like to begin with the top mount. Good. Slide that in. Secure down the nut. We'll go ahead and get both top mounts in place before we get our lower ones in. Now to tighten up our upper mounts, we're gonna utilize an Allen key on the middle of our stud. This will keep the stud from spinning because the upper mount actually utilizes a ball joint style fitting. Now we're gonna put the Allen key in that end and our wrench on our nut end before we tighten it down. We'll go ahead, snug those into place, then we'll get our lower bolts in place. Now just go ahead and reinstall your factory hardware on your lower link. Then using your 18-millimeter socket and wrench, go ahead and tighten them down.Now we're ready to install our new shocks. I already have one bolt up in the hole because these are forked on the ends, so I'm gonna slide the one end in, get the other bolts started. Now we'll tighten them up. This is the factory hardware. It's the same 16-millimeter you took out earlier. We're just gonna tighten 'em down then we'll get our lower mount in place. And just use your factory bolt, get your lower mount in place, and tighten it up with your two 18-millimeters.All right. Now we're gonna go ahead and get our U-bolt in on our track bar bracket. Just slides around the front of the axle, put your two washers in place and secure them down with our lock nuts that come with it. Now to tighten these, you're gonna use a 19-millimeter. Now the last two parts of the rear of our Jeep is our bump stop extension. That's actually gonna sit right on the top of our bump stop pad that's on our rear axle assembly and the other part is our rear brake line relocation bracket. Now, all this does is bolt into the factory location and our brake line bolts directly to the side of that. It lowers our brake line down just enough so we don't get any pull on our brake lines where they will break later.Now, with a 10-millimeter, tighten down our factory bolt to hold the bracket in place. And with the hardware supplied in our kit, we're gonna have our bolt, little washer, and our washer and our nut on the other side. Now, with 11-millimeter socket and 11-millimeter wrench, but I'm gonna just go ahead and use an adjustable for now. Tighten those down. Now our brake lines are relocated. Let's get our bump stops tightened down. Now, for our bump stop extensions, we're gonna use the hardware that comes in the kit. We're gonna use the bolt, the washer, sliding through the bump stop and line those up with the holes on our rear. Then we're gonna go ahead and get our washer and nut in place. With 2, 13-millimeter wrenches, we're gonna go ahead and tighten this down. All right, now just repeat these steps on the opposite side and that will tie up the rear end installation for our lift kit.We're gonna begin the front installation in the same way we did on the rear. We're gonna go ahead and get our shocks disconnected, our end links, get our brake lines disconnected so we can get that little bit of extra stretch. We're gonna get our lower control arms out of the way. Get our springs out, get it all lowered down, then we're to go ahead and start with reassembly. Now, on the front, unlike the rear, we're gonna be replacing the whole front track bar with the new adjustable one that comes in the kit. So we're just gonna get that track bar out of the way. We don't have to worry about a relocation bracket for that. Now, let's go ahead and get started. And once again, we're gonna use our 18-millimeter wrench and socket on our end links. And for our upper one, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter wrench to hold the stud in place. Now, for the passenger side, I'm gonna actually have to use a regular ratchet only because there's really not enough room to get in here with an air gun. And for the top one, just the same as before.Now we're gonna be using our 21-millimeter socket to get our track bar out of here. And don't forget your tab nut. All right, now we're also gonna need a 21-millimeter wrench on the driver's side of our track bar. Now with a 10-millimeter socket, let's just go ahead and get our brake line brackets out of the way. And that gives us a little bit more movement as we lower our differential down. All right, now with your 18-millimeters again, let's go ahead and get our lower shock bolts out. All right, now we're gonna go ahead and lower our pole jacks down and pop our springs out then we'll go ahead and get our lower control arms out. Then we'll get our upper shock mounts out. All right, now we're gonna need to get our bump stop out of the top of our spring perch. Now, a little bit of WD-40 sprayed around the perimeter, then just work it out back and forth. They will pop out. They're gonna be a little tight. Just do your best not to rip them. If they do rip, you can get replacements for 'em. But we are gonna reuse this once we get our new bump stop extensions in place.All right, now with a 21-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench, we're gonna get our lower control arm bolts out of the way. And the same socket and wrench for either upper bolt. All right, now we can go ahead and get one of our new lower control arms in place. It goes in the same way that you just took out your factory one. Slide the bolt through. Now, you don't wanna tighten these all the way down just yet. Just snug them up for now until we get the weight of the vehicle on 'em and then we'll go back and tighten them. All right, now you're gonna wanna leave these loose until we get the vehicle back down on the ground and get full weight on 'em then we'll tighten them up. All right, now what we're gonna wanna do before we take this bracket out is now that is bolted in here, it's nice and tight, we can go ahead and pry this open to release our brake line from it because we're gonna have a new relocation bracket that takes the place of this. You can use a small pry bar. Being careful you don't hit your brake line, just pry the metal open.Now, once you get it pried open then get your brake line free, then go head and use a 10-millimeter socket on your ratchet. Get that out of there and discard it. Now, we're ready to go ahead and get our new spring into place and I actually slid our new bump stop assembly in the middle of it and I'm gonna show you why in just a second. It's actually easier just to slide the spring over our factory bump stop area without the bump stop in it. Once it's in, we'll line it up and we'll actually use a small pry bar to pop these into place. There we go.Now, as you can see, I did have to have the help of a friend to go ahead and pop this into place. It doesn't take too much effort as long as they pull down on it just to make up that little bit of slack, still left on it by our upper control arms because what it is is we're twisting that bushing and it's fighting against us a little bit, but it's not a big deal. Have your friend pull on it while you slide the spring up into place. Now that we got this side in, let's go ahead and get the other one in. All right, now what I did was I sprayed down the pocket and the top of our new bump stop extension with little of WD-40 and we're gonna just use a pry tool and pry against the spring to pop it up into place. I cannot stress how much you need to be careful doing this. All right, now we're ready to go ahead and get our shocks swapped out, and to do that, we're gonna use 2, 16-millimeter wrenches. We're gonna put one here under the bushing and then another one on top. And we're gonna go ahead and get these out and then swapped out for our new ones.Now, depending on the mileage of your Jeep and how old it is and kind of where you live, you're probably gonna snap that top stud off the top of your shock. Pretty common thing, it happens, but it's okay because we got new ones to swap in. All right, with the old shock out of the way, we're ready to go ahead and get in one of our new ones. They go in the same way that the old ones came out except this time, we have all the threads. All right, now we're ready to go ahead and get our lower shock bolt in place. We'll slide that in. And before we put the nut on, we're gonna go ahead and get our new brake line relocation brackets in. They're gonna mount right to the bottom of the shock. And the way this works, our ABS line goes down first and our brake line goes on top of that. Then we just go ahead and zip tie those in. And with the zip ties supplied in the kit, go ahead and tighten them down. Now just remember to cut off your loose ends and tighten up all your hardware for your shock. With a 15-millimeter wrench, go ahead and tighten down the top nut on your shock.All right, now we're gonna go ahead and get the studs for our sway bar end link. Quickly get these installed. We're just gonna go ahead and slide them in the hole from our lower mounts for our original sway bar end links, secure them with our washer and our lock nut. We're gonna use a 17-millimeter wrench to hold the stud and a 19-millimeter wrench to tighten up the nut. All right, next we're gonna take our new sway bar end link. Just slide it over that stud then secure it with the lock pin, then get the other end into our sway bar. And don't forget your washers. Tighten that up using a 19-millimeter wrench. And we're gonna put these brackets in with the other stud on them and they're gonna go right here on our body mount stud. Now, these are so when you disconnect your end links, you flip them up and secure them here that way they don't dangle and get damaged. Now, using a 18-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the nut. Slide this up over the stud and then lock the nut back down. Now, all you got to do is swing your sway bar up, slide them over the stud, put your washer, then clip on. Now your sway bar and end links are out of the way when you go on the trail.All right, now we're nearing the end of our installation. We gotta get our front track bar in place. Now I have this set up just about even with the factory length. Now, I did that because I don't know the exact length that this is gonna need for an alignment. When you're done doing your installation, make sure you take your Jeep to an alignment shop and then get your whole front end properly aligned. All right, now we're gonna put this back in with our factory hardware. I normally like to start with the top mount, line up the hole, slide the bolt through. Now, to get our lower mount installed, to do that, we gotta throw our wheels back on and get our Jeep back down on the weight. Once we do that, it'll actually pull the axle over and line it up where it should be. Now, with a 12-millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and disconnect our exhaust flanges that come out of our catalytic converters so we can put our exhaust spaces on. What this will do is space our exhausts out just enough to clear our drive shaft when our suspensions are at full droop. Well, that's kind of expected with exhaust bolts, they're gonna snap. You got a couple more to do, I guess they're all gonna break. We'll go ahead and get those out and we'll get our spacers in.Now, when installing your spacers, your longer spacers are gonna go on your passenger side and you're just gonna go ahead, pull your exhaust back and down to get that in. Now, you might need to use a little bit…use of a pry bar to do so. All right. Now, if you were lucky enough with this assembly on yours that your bolts did not break, the hardware kit comes with new bolts that are long enough to make up the space and bolt these back together. If you were like us and unfortunate and your bolts were broken, you're just gonna need to get new hardware to make up the difference. Now, if you use the bolt that comes with the kit, I found an 8.125 nut works well on it with a couple extra washers and it should just get you where you need to be.Now with our Jeep on the ground and the wheels on it and we have the full weight on the suspension, we can go back and tighten up our lower control arms and our track bars.Now we've reached the end of our installation of our Teraflex Suspension Lift on our Jeep JK and I hope you enjoyed this video and it showed you exactly what it takes to do this installation at home with the help of a friend or two.Now, for more parts and videos like these, make sure you give us a visit at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Versatile Off-Road Warrior. Do you enjoy an exciting trail ride on the weekends, but still use your Jeep for the daily commute to work? You don’t have to sacrifice anything to get a lifted off-roader. Transform your Jeep with this Teraflex 3 inch Lift Suspension Lift Kit with 4 Sport FlexArms, Track Bar, and 9550 VSS Shocks. With this kit on, you can get those large 35s you’ve been craving, and you don’t even have to give up the factory ride quality or handling for everyday driving.
9550 VSS Twin-Tube Shocks. The heart of this kit lies on its specially designed 9550 shock absorbers. These are vehicle-specific to Jeep Wranglers and that’s why they are the shock absorbers of choice for many Jeep owners. Together with the Teraflex spring coils, they give you the stability and handling you need for off-road activities and street driving.
Stronger and Higher Spring Rate. While the 3-inch lift spring coils on this kit follow the Jeep’s spring design, each one is longer and stronger than your OEM. They hold more weight and have the dynamic balance needed to give you a fun ride on the trail and smooth driving experience on the streets.
No Modifications Needed. For the Teraflex 3 inch Lift Suspension Lift Kit, you won’t need to do any cutting or welding. However, you do need some specialized tools to handle the install safely. In addition, a drive shaft upgrade may be needed to fix the steeper angle caused by this lift.
Teraflex Warranty. Teraflex shows that they are committed to customer satisfaction by providing the Teraflex 3 inch Lift Suspension Lift Kit with a limited lifetime warranty against factory defects such as material and workmanship issues. This coverage, however, does not extend to damages caused by normal wear, installation mistakes, neglect, and modifications.
Application. The Teraflex 3 inch Lift Suspension Lift Kit fits all 2007 to 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK 4-Door models.
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
July 24, 2018
Comes with all the proper parts to make a 3in lift without any problemsHelpful (16)
In your description on this 3" lift it says you may need a drive shaft upgrade . Is it really needed for a 2010 JKU or is your kit a perfect fit without a newer driveshaft needed .
With any 3" lift, you may experience clearance issues with your driveshaft, though typically on the 4 door models, there is still sufficient clearance.
I have a 2012 JKU, with this lift it doesnt suggest that i need an exhaust spacer like the other lift kits do. Should I get an exhaust spacer when I purchase this lift kit? Or is it not needed for this lift kit? Thanks, KennyB
You will want to get an exhaust spacer for this lift as it is recommended for jeeps lifting more than 2.5 inches.
I have a 2015 JK 4 Door and I would like to inquire about the driveshaft modification. I am looking to purchase the 3" inch lift. What type of modifications do I need to make to the driveshaft, what are the reasons for the modifications, and is there driveshaft mod's needed for both front and rear or only front.
With a 3" lift, no replacement driveshafts should be needed on a 4 door.
I have a 2015 Rubicon. Will the electronic sway bar disconnect still work with this kit?
This will work with your 2015 Rubicon and the electronic sway bar disconnect.
For using this kit and running 35" tires, I've read in various places about regearing. How important is this and how do I go about doing it?
We would indeed recommend re-gearing with 35" tires. This would be very important as your vehicle will be feeling quite sluggish without this upgrade. I have a great guide on the subject here: https://www.extremeterrain.com/regear-jeep-wrangler-explained.html
A leveling kit is not needed to install this.
(approx) a Day
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box