(approx) 5 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Hey, guys. So today, I'm here with the Teraflex 3-inch Base Suspension Lift Kit with Shocks, fitting all 2007 to 2018 4-Door JK Wranglers. So this is gonna be for the JKU owner that's looking to comfortably fit a 35-inch tire, while still maintaining good drivability on the street. Suspension kits can be very tricky to choose from, considering we offer a ton of different kits on the site. And there's a lot going on with your suspension, so it's really gonna come down to the price of the lift kit, as well as what you're looking to get out of your Jeep. This option by Teraflex is gonna be good for the JKU owner that still wants to conquer those trails, get good flex, while also still maintaining some comfortable driving while you're out on the street. So this is gonna come with everything that you need to get the height on your Wrangler. It's gonna come with all of the little brackets, the coils, the shocks, you do get a track bar relocation bracket for the rear. And I do like that out of this kit, however, because it is a base suspension kit, it's not gonna come with everything that you need in order to correct that lift geometry. If you're wondering about the geometry that you may need to correct, I would recommend to go on our channel and check out our suspension geometry video. But what I do really like about this kit is, since it is a base option, you can build off of it. So if you wanted to correct that geometry, you can pick whatever control arms, you can pick whatever adjustable track bars or whatever other components that you're looking to add to this kit, really giving you some options. So as far as tires goes, guys, like I said, this is gonna comfortably fit a 35-inch tire. You're gonna get good flex out of that, a lot of up travel, while still being able to fill out that wheel well very nicely, giving it a very aggressive stance. So as far as 33s, you're gonna have a lot of room for up travel. They may look a little bit small with this kit, however, they still will definitely get the job done. And as for 37s, as you can probably already assume, you're not gonna have much room at all, you're gonna have some rubbing and you're not gonna have a lot of room for up travel, and they may even hit your vendor. So as far as price goes, this is gonna be just south of $900. And I personally think for what you're getting out of this kit, considering it is Teraflex, and they make quality components, with also being a base kit that comes with really everything that you need to get that height, that's a really good price point. Usually, those more expensive options are just gonna come with more components included in the kit, control arms, or the adjustable track bars that I mentioned earlier, or they may even get a little crazy and come with cross members, coilovers. And then those lesser expensive options are just not gonna come with everything that you may need in order to set up a complete kit. So as far as this lift kit goes, I personally think that it fits very well in that $900 price point. You're getting everything that you need for that height, but you are able to add off of this kit, giving it a little bit of touch of your own. So install is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, as you can probably already assume, considering this is a lift kit. If you are doing this in your driveway, guys, it's probably gonna take you about five hours to get the job done, and you will need a lot of basic hand tools to get the job done. So speaking of that install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used from my install were a couple of blocks of wood, PB B'laster, two pry bars, an assortment of impact wrenches, an assortment of wrenches, vice grips, pair of snips, a marker, pair of pliers, couple of pliers, a Phillips head screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, 3/8 inch drive and quarter-inch drive ratchet, Loctite, a cut-off wheel, a trim removal tool, the provided tool by Teraflex, a hammer, two dead blows, an assortment of extensions, an assortment of deep sockets, shallow sockets, and swivel sockets, and a 6-millimeter Allen key. So the first thing we need to do is get our Jeep up in the air. Now, if you are on the ground and using a jack, you will need a jack as well as some jack stands, [inaudible 00:03:51] the rear wheels. And we're gonna start in the front, so you can go ahead and jack up the front. But we're gonna go ahead and put ours on our lift. So now we need to get our time tires off, you will be using a 19-millimeter deep socket, as well as a breaker bar or a ratchet. I'm using an impact wrench to do this.So the first thing that we need to do is support our axle, you can grab some pole jacks or if you're on the ground, you will need some jack stands. Next step, we're gonna take off our sway bar end links. So I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench to remove this bottom bolt. Now you will need to save this hardware, so put this aside. Now we're gonna remove this top nut. There is a stud here, you will be using a 19-millimeter wrench or a three-quarter-inch wrench to hold that stud still. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket on the other side. Now, we can repeat that process on the other side. Now because there's not a lot of room here, I am gonna use an 18-millimeter swivel and the 18-millimeter wrench, get this bottom bolt off. Then we can go back to our 19-millimeter wrench and our 18-millimeter socket for that top nut. So our next step is gonna be to remove our shock. I'm gonna start with our lower bolt using an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. Now in order to get the bolt out, you might have to put a little bit of pressure on the axle. Now we can move to our top bolt. So now we can take off the nut that's on our shock stud up at the top here, you will need a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench and a 16-millimeter wrench. And I would like to mention right out of the gate that these are usually a problem. I would recommend soaking them in PB B'laster before you go ahead and try to take that nut off. However, if you are still unable to take that off, you may need to cut off the top of the shock stud. We're not reusing these, so if you cut off the top of this shock stud, you'll be able to fit a socket on there. There's not a lot of room to work with here. Also worth mentioning, they sometimes break, however, we are provided with all new hardware and new everything in our kit. So to keep the shock body still, I'm going to put our 16-millimeter wrench here, we're gonna wedge this right up against our shock tower, then we're gonna take our 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench, put that on top of our stud. Now, this one surprisingly broke easy, however, they're not all gonna be like this. You also should have a cup washer and a bushing up there, flat washer. You're also gonna have a bushing. Once that's out, we can wiggle our shock out of our shock mount at the bottom and fully remove our shock. So while we're over here, what I'm gonna do now is just remove the bolt holding in our brake line bracket. We do need this to be off while we drop our axle, just to protect our brake lines. So I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket and impact to get that off. Now, this is attached to our breather here, we'll need to remove that with a trim removal tool. Now, we have to move to the bottom here, we do need to remove a 10-millimeter bolt in order to take out our bracket that's holding our brake line and our ABS line on to our spring perch. So this is also a 10-millimeter, we're just gonna go ahead and remove that. It'll gonna be one bolt, and on the other side will be wedged in, so if we just pull this out, careful of your lines, gonna grab a flathead screwdriver, just to wedge that out. And that'll give us enough slack so when we drop our axle our brake lines are protected. Now we can repeat that process on the other side.So after we have our shocks out and our brake lines disassembled, what we can do next is drop our axle. Now we're gonna go ahead and get our springs out, but we wanna make sure the axle drops low enough to fit our new springs in, which are about three inches higher. So I would like to mention that we are not removing that track bar just yet. If we do see that we need to drop our axle a little bit lower to fit in our new springs, we will go ahead and do that, but we're gonna see how everything droops without that dropped. So we're just gonna go ahead and start to lower our axle down. You wanna lower the pole jacks or your jack stands evenly. We're not getting enough droop because our track bar is pulling our axle to our side, so what we're gonna do is remove our track bar bolt, this is gonna be the axle side, with a 21-millimeter socket. I'm also using an extension to clear our drag link here. All right, so once that's removed, we can continue to drop our axle. So we started dropping our axle and our drive shaft is hitting pretty hard on our exhaust. Now we are gonna put some exhaust spacers in to make sure that doesn't happen while we're driving. But what we are gonna do, just to get our front set up, is remove our driveshaft for the time being. Now, you will need to mark the flange as well as the bolt to make sure that it's going in the same spot that we took it out of. So I am just going to mark that with a sharpie here. So I'm using a 15-millimeter swivel socker in order to get these off. So once that's disconnected, we can put our driveshaft bolts to the side and continue to lower our axle. Now it's given us enough room to take out our stock spring, you can go ahead and wiggle that out. Can do that on the other side as well. So before we install our new spring, we do need to install our bump stop spacer. We are just going to remove our existing bump stop by just pulling that out. So what I did was just put a little bit of lubricant inside of here, I used some PB B'laster, and then we can just wedge that in our bump stop extension. So what we need to do now is press our bump stop extension, as well as our bump stop into place. So what I'm gonna do, I grabbed two blocks of wood, I'm just going to put our bump stop extension where it needs to be. And then we're going to, basically, just lift our axle back up, and these two blocks of wood, you're gonna press that right back in. I also greased the bump stop extension as well as the inside on our bump stop. So before we go ahead and install our new springs, I did wanna show you guys side by side your new spring in comparison to your stock one. So this is what's gonna give you all of the height out of your lift kit. These are gonna be about three inches taller than your factory spring. These are also gonna be a lot beefier than your factory spring. However, they are gonna have a very similar spring ring, giving you comfort out of your ride. So now that we have our axle drooped low enough, we can go ahead and install our new springs. Now that's not gonna seat initially because when we drop our axle, the control arms make it roll back. So we're gonna go ahead and get in the other side and then we'll put pressure on the axle to straighten these guys out.So I would like to mention that you may want to do the driver side first. Now, I'm just gonna raise the axle up, put a little bit of pressure on our springs. Passenger side is a lot easier. It is a little bit harder to maneuver around your drag link here. However, you always wanna start with your driver side. Also, you wanna make sure that you have the spring rotated into the retainer down at the bottom, on the bottom of your spring perch. And this is gonna look a little bit funky here, the bump stop is touching, but once it's on the ground and the axle is recentered, that will be okay. So before we install our new shocks, I did wanna show you guys a side by side again, giving you guys a little bit of a comparison between your stock component and your new component, and tell you what you're getting performance wise out of the new one. Right off the bat, there's two different types of shocks. You have a hydraulic shock, very similar to your factory, that's gonna be very fluidlike. It's going to be very comfortable, perfect for the daily driver. However, it is susceptible to shock fade over time, which is cavitation or foaming forming inside of the shock when it's worked really hard, like bumps at fast speeds or excessive washboards. So it may leak, it may fade, and you may feel a little bit of bounce out of it. Then you have a nitrogen-charged shock or a gas-charged shock, like the Teraflex 9550 VSS. This is gonna be a little bit stiffer, however, it is going to resist any of that shock fade over time. So what's going on inside of the shock? So this has a twin tube design, it keeps the gas and the oil separated, which is perfect for that long lifespan and to resist shock fade over time, unlike a monotube shock like this one. This is also gonna be a lot beefier, it's gonna be a little bit larger in diameter, keeping that oil and the gas separated, not to mention this will also have a triple chrome plated induction hardened shaft. So this is gonna be very durable while you're out on the trail. So if you are familiar with shocks, if you do get a chip in the shaft, it can induce shock fade over time, letting some air inside of your shock, inducing that shock fade, but this is going to resist any of that while you're out on the trail, being very durable.So what I also would like to mention is this is going to accommodate for your lift height. This is gonna be a lot longer than your factory shock. So some other options for lift kits that you might see out there without shocks, I would always recommend getting shocks with that because it does accommodate the lift height. If you were to put this on your Jeep right now, with it lifted, this will be maxed out and you're not gonna get the correct valving. So this is going to accommodate for all of that, it's gonna be a lot beefier, and it's gonna be tuned for exactly what you wanna do with it. So let's go ahead and install our new shocks. So now we're gonna install our shock, you are gonna need your cup washer first, then the blushing. We also need to line up our bushing as well as our cup washer, might be easier to put that on first. We're going to put that shock up through. So once the top shock nut is on, we can take a 9/16 inch wrench and tighten that down. Now, this is not gonna be super tight. You do only wanna torque this to about 20 foot-pounds. So when tightening this down, you wanna make sure that this has a lot of pressure on it, however, you wanna tighten it down until it starts bulging. You don't wanna over tighten it so it is bulging. So we're almost at that point. So now that that is tight, we can loosely install our bottom shock bolt. And the reason why I say we need to loosely install it is because we need to install our anchor. So now you might have to play with the height of your axle in order to get your bolt lined up. Once it's there, we can go ahead and install that. Now, we're just going to loosely install that there and then we'll come back to that when we are attaching our brake line anchor. We're gonna go ahead and remove this bracket that sat at the bottom of our spring perch, and we're going to attach an anchor that will attach to our bottom shock bolt. What we need to do now is remove this bracket so we can attach our brake lines to an anchor that is gonna be mounted up to our bottom shock bolt. So what I've done is took a pair of vice grips, clamp this down, make sure this isn't moving around. And I'm going to take a cut-off wheel and slice the bracket up along the brake line. However, you only have to cut through half of the metal, and then we're gonna take a pair of pliers and pull this back. Now the other way is to grab a pair of pliers and pull this back manually with a little bit of lube, but that is very difficult, so we are just going to very carefully cut it, make sure you do not cut your brake line. Once we have that bent back, we can take a trim removal tool and just remove our ABS line from our bracket. So once that bracket's out, we can take our anchor and attach it to our bottom shock bolt. So what I did was move the brake line to the outside of the shock because we didn't have enough slack for our anchor. All I did was just take out this bottom bolt and maneuver it around the bottom of our shock here. And now we can install our anchor. But first, we're gonna take off these two clips. So I just grabbed a pair of snips, and we're just going to cut these zip ties. Be very careful because this is your ABS line. After those are off, we can attach our anchor to our bottom shock bolt. So we are just going to thread that on, make sure that stays on while we are attaching our lines inside of our anchor. So there's gonna be two cut-outs, one at the bottom for your ABS line, gonna wedge that in there. And then the second at the top, the brake line. Now we can take a zip tie, put that through the bottom of the hole and zip tie that together. And with a pair of snips in hand, you can just turn that. Now we can do the same thing on the other side. After we've installed our new anchor, we are just going to reinstall our 10-millimeter bolt back into the frame. And then we can go ahead and tighten this bottom shock bolt down with our 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench. So what we're doing now is moving to our exhaust spacers, these are very difficult to get out, just because the bolts are most likely to rust. What we did was heated up this bolt with an inductor tool and took a 13-millimeter socket to go ahead and extract that bolt. This will be a little bit tricky. However, once you get the bolt crack free, you should be able to ratchet it out. I'm using a 15-inch extension, just to pass our crossmember here. So that's one side. Now we can move over to the other side. So what we're gonna do now is install our sway bar end link. But first, before we install it, we want to install our Zerk fitting. This is gonna go at the bottom of your front link, and you can tell your front link and your back link apart because of the length, the rear links are gonna be a little bit longer and your front link because you do get a quick disconnect setup, is going to have a ball and socket style joint. So we are going to install that Zerk fitting at that bottom joint, using an 8-millimeter deep socket. We're just going to tighten that on there, make sure not to over tighten it, don't wanna mess up those threads, that's just going to be there so you can maintenance it over time and keep them happy. We can go ahead and install our top stud. So you're gonna have a washer and a nylon lock nut, we're gonna go ahead and thread that on there.And before we go ahead and tighten that down, we are going to install our bottom stud where this will link on to. So we're just gonna place our stud on, then we can place our flat washer as well as our nylon lock nut. We're gonna go ahead and tighten that down with a three-quarter-inch or 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench. And I'm also gonna use a Phillips head screwdriver just to keep that stud from spinning all the way around. You wanna make sure that this hole in the front here is accessible because that's where our pin is gonna be, where you quickly disconnect your sway bar link. So you just wanna make sure that this is on the inside of your drag link and tie rod. But how this is gonna work is this ball and socket style joint is going to slide right on to that stud here. But before we slide it on all the way, we just wanna make sure that it's at the right height, and then we can go ahead and tighten down that top stud. So I'm gonna be using that same three-quarter-inch ratcheting wrench, and I'm gonna be using a 6-millimeter Allen key to keep the stud from spinning. So we're not gonna connect these right now, we still do need a little bit of play in our axle in order to attach our driveshaft, as well as our exhaust spacers, and we need to attach the other side. So when your sway bars are disconnected, you do need somewhere to store them. So we're going to go ahead and install our mount that's gonna stow our sway bar end links away when you're on the trail. So this is gonna be your mount, you will have a stud just like the bottom of your sway bar end link that you'll be able to slip the bottom of your sway bar end link onto and clamp it with that same pin. Now, this is gonna be threaded and they are gonna be side specific. So we're gonna go ahead and thread that on. And as you can tell, I'm holding a little bit of Loctite here, you can just put a little bit of thread lock on there, and then thread the nut on. You just wanna make sure that this stays in place. So once that is threaded on, we can take our Phillips head screwdriver and a 14-millimeter socket, we can go ahead and tighten that down.Once that's tightened down, we can put this aside and take off our bolt up top that we're gonna be attaching this to. So we're gonna go ahead and remove this nut with an 18-millimeter socket, I'm also using an extension. So we can attach our mount and sandwich this in between. So how it's gonna work is once you have your sway bar end links disconnected, this is going to go on to there like that, keep it out of the way while you're out on the trail. And once you want to, can use your sway bar links again, we can take that back down to the original mount. So what we need to do now is install our exhaust spacers. Now after you have those 13-millimeter bolts out, we're going to start in the driver side with our shorter spacer. We're going to push our exhaust back and wedge our spacer in between. Now we're gonna start to thread our bolts in, I would recommend to hit it with a little bit of anti-seize. And you are provided new bolts, so you will not have to worry about the old bolts. So we can grab our longer spacer and go ahead and put that in. This is going to help out with our driveshaft. This boot is sitting very closely to our exhaust, so putting these spacers on is gonna move our exhaust downward and get it out of the way of our driveshaft. Now we can take a 13-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten those up evenly. So once that side is tight, we can move to the other side and tighten that down. What we can do now is reattach our driveshaft. Keep in mind of where your market is, you wanna make sure that that is correctly lined up, then we're gonna go ahead, throw a little bit of Loctite on each of the bolts, blue Loctite to be specific. Now, we're going to take our 15-millimeter swivel, start to tighten them down in a star pattern, just to make sure everything's even. I just wanna make sure that they're threaded with the hand ratchet, then we can go in with our impact and tighten them down. What we can do now, I just wanted to show you guys how this happens. Say you just got off the trail, you wanna put your sway bar links back on, we're going to slide them on to your pin, which is going to attach to this washer. And then we are going to take our pin and slide that through. That's gonna keep them secured on your axle.So after we've finished up in the front, what you can do is jack up the rear of your Jeep, [inaudible 00:31:45] the front wheels or if you're on a lift we can just head to the back. Now what we have to do is support our axle. Now, we can take off our sway bar links. So just like the front, we're gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket, as well as an 18-millimeter wrench. However, I am using a extension here, just because I wanna be able to clear that shock body. Now, we can do the same thing on the other side. And we will be reusing that hardware, the bottom hardware, so make sure that you do keep that. Now we can swing down our sway bar and remove the top nut, same thing as the front, that 18-millimeter socket and 19-millimeter wrench. Now we can do the same thing on the other side. So what we're gonna do now is disconnect our shocks. So we're gonna start with our bottom shock bolt, you're gonna be using the same as up front, 18-millimeter wrench and a 18-millimeter socket. Make sure that axle is supported, then we can do the same thing on the other side, and then we'll be able to take out the top two shock bolts. While we're on our shocks, we're gonna go ahead and remove the two top shock bolts. I'm gonna be using a 16-millimeter swivel, as well a pretty long extension, I think it's a 15-inch extension, and we're gonna go ahead and remove these. So before we go ahead and lower our axle, we do want to take off our E-brake bracket. It's gonna be two 10-millimeter nuts on a stud in our body, so we're just going to take those off and using a 10-millimeter deep socket. And we will not need this bracket anymore, so you can go ahead and fully remove that. Then we can move to the side of the frame rail and remove the brake line brackets on the side. Now we're gonna take out the 10-millimeter bolt holding in our side brake line bracket for our [inaudible 00:33:43] line here, just gonna remove that with a 10-millimeter socket, get that out of the way, and we will be able to put on a brake line drop bracket in just a minute. We can do the same thing on the other side.One more thing before we lower our axle, we do want to take out our track bar bolt. This is gonna be replaced with a rear track bar relocation bracket, and this is gonna allow our axle to drop a lot lower. I'm using a 21-millimeter socket, as well as an impact wrench to take that out. Make sure to keep this hardware and that flag nut on the other side, then we can go ahead and start to lower our axle down. All right, so now we can remove our springs. Now, make sure you keep these isolators, we will be using these for our new springs. So before we can drop our axle any lower to fit in our larger springs, what we do need to do is release our ABS lines in the rear. There's a couple of pop clips on your axle, as well as on your frame. We're just gonna take our trim removal tool and go ahead and pop those off. Same thing for the other side. So now that you have a bunch of slack, we can drop our axle a little bit lower to fit in our new springs. Now, with our factory isolator, we can go ahead and pop that into place. All right, now we can do the same thing on the other side. Now, we're just going to raise this just a little bit to put some pressure on our springs, and then we can grab our hardware for our spring retainers. Now, we can install our spring retainer, so it's gonna be this large washer here, we're just going to place that right on top of our spring perch, then we can place the provided bolt that comes with that through our spring perch. Then we can take our provided flange nut and our provided lock washer, stack that in our provided tool, put that in the back of the spring perch here, in the opening. So once you have the lock washer and the nut inside of the bottom of the spring perch, start to thread this bolt in. So a little trick I learned is to actually take a very, very small piece of tape and just tape the lock washer to the bolt or the nut, and then you should be able to sneak that in. So now we can grab a 9/16 inch socket and a quarter-inch drive ratchet, and your little-provided tool here, we're gonna sneak that on the back of our flange nut, we can go ahead and tighten this down. So once that's tightened down, we can just do the same thing on the other side. Now that our lower spring retainer kit is in, we do need to install our top one. So this is going to be provided to you with a bolt as well as a nut. We're just gonna pass it through this hole that is the closest to our frame. So you're gonna have a retainer, a flat washer, as well as a bolt, and a nut. So we are going to try to position this correctly around our spring. So we're just gonna attach this nut for the time being, make sure this is correctly positioned. Now the 19-millimeter wrench and a 19-millimeter socket, as well as an extension, using a 15-inch extension here, just to clear everything, we're just gonna tighten that down. So this top retainer is going to ensure while you're out on the trail, if you flex too hard, your spring is not going to fall out. So now we can do the passenger side. It is gonna be a little bit harder because we do have the gas tank here, you can bend your inner fender liner back. What we're gonna do next is install our bump stop spacer. This is just like the one in our front, except we're not extending the top bump stop, we're just adding a little spacer down at the bottom on our axle. So we have our provided hardware that we're going to bolt through our axle here. You're gonna need two flat washers, your bolts, and a nut. So we're just going to attach both of them at first, and then we can tighten down. You'll have one in the front and one in the back, back's gonna be directly behind. You wanna make sure the shelf, as well, is facing the front of your Jeep. And now we're gonna take a 13-millimeter wrench, hold that nut still, and then a 13-millimeter socket to tighten this down. Same for the back. Now we can do the same thing on the other side. So now, while we're back here, we're going to install our brake line drop racket. This is actually gonna be lined up perfectly after we have taken off this bracket. So now we just reinstall the factory bolt with our new bracket, we're going to tighten that down with our 10-millimeter socket. You do have to manipulate it, you can bend the hard line, be careful. So then we can take our provided hardware, which is gonna be two flat washers, your bolts, and nylon lock nut, put that through both of our brackets and secure the nut on the other side, and then tighten them down with 11-millimeter socket and an 11-millimeter wrench. And then we can just tighten up that top bracket with our 10-millimeter socket. And we can do the same thing on the other side. So what we're gonna do is install our rear shock. What I like to do is get one of the bolts threaded by itself. So once that's up there, we could get our shock ready, we're going to hook that into our bolt. We're going to thread that other bolt in. Always wanna make sure everything's threading and then you can tighten it down. Now, we can grab our extension, our 16-millimeter swivel, or our air impact. I'm also pushing up on the shock to make sure it's sitting flat. Now, we're gonna take our factory hardware and bolt in the bottom of our shock. You may have to tinker with the height of the axle in order to get this lined up, seems pretty lined up for us. Now we can tighten that down with our 18-millimeter socket and our 18-millimeter wrench. We can just repeat that process on the other side. All right, so now we can attach our track bar relocation bracket. So first thing's first, with our track bar relocation bracket, we don't have to do any drilling, which is fantastic, but we do have to take out our lower control arm bolts on our driver side. So you're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket as well as a 21-millimeter wrench or an adjustable, we can go ahead and remove that. Pretty easy. Now your control arm is gonna wanna go all wonky, but we are just going to grab our track bar relocation bracket, put that in place, and then rebolt that up. That should just slide right into place, which is very nice. Once that's through, we're not gonna tighten that down yet, but we are just going to thread the nut on the back of our control arm bolt. So we're gonna put this crush sleeve in the middle of our bracket here, you may need to take a pry bar, and pry that out a little bit. So can we fit our sleeve in now? We can. Now, we can do our best to get this bolt through. So now we can take our flat washer and our provided nut that's supposed to go with this bolt. Honestly, I really like this track bar relocation bracket, in comparison to some others that I've seen, obviously very easy to put on, you don't have to do any other drilling, it bolts up to axle, as well as this part of the axle here bolts up to either side. Now, we can grab our E-bracket and attach our flat washers, and we can attach the nuts that are provided to us. Now, these two nuts together will be actually in a bag separated from the one that goes with the bolt. They do look similar, but they are different. So now I'm gonna take a 19-millimeter deep socket and go ahead and tighten these up. So now that those are tightened up, we can keep this socket on here and grab a 19-millimeter wrench, and we can tighten up our bracket bolt. After that's good and tight, we'll go ahead and tighten down our control arm bracket bolt using tha
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
High-End Appearance. Give your Jeep Wrangler JK the powerful stance it deserves to have by investing in Teraflex's 3 Inch Base Suspension Lift Kit with 9550 VSS Shocks. This impressive lift kit manages to dramatically increase your Jeep's ground clearance as well as boost its stance by 3 inches all while maintaining a powerful drive and superior drivability on the most challenging trails and terrains.
Superior Shocks. Included in this base suspension lift kit are high-quality 9550 VSS shocks that are specifically created to ensure a smooth and streamlined performance on the roughest terrains. Thanks to these components, you'll be able to stay at the front of the pack without being subjected to extreme jostling and bouncing.
Top-Notch Springs. Thanks to the four powerful 3 inch lift coil springs that are included in this base suspension lift kit, you'll be able to enjoy a steady, stable lift wherever you decide to venture. Built from high-strength, hardcore materials, these springs maintain their superior reliability on the toughest terrain so you can stay securely above the rest.
Straight Forward Installation. All necessary hardware and components are included with this kit. However, the 5-hour installation still requires professional skill to complete. The 2012-2018 JKU Models will require an exhaust spacer or exhaust modification to allow for proper driveshaft clearance. The spacer will be sold separately.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. This kit comes with a limited lifetime warranty against defects. Some limitations apply, so check the full warranty for details.
Application. Teraflex's 3 inch lift kit with 9550 VSS Shocks is created to perfectly fit all 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JKs with 4 doors.
Application Note. This kit requires aftermarket wheels with a 4.50 inch backspacing or less or wheel adapters for stock wheels. 2012-2018 JK models require exhaust spacers or modification for driveshaft clearance while 2007-2011 JK models require extended length front brake lines. Flexarms or flexarms and a front track bar are needed for ideal suspension geometry. The maximum tire diameter that can be used with this kit is 35 inches.
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
January 03, 2020
All around good lift
This is a great all around lift. The ride feels close to factory when driving on the roads and highway, but it is also very capable of doing any off-roading that you want to do!Helpful (1)
October 03, 2019
Pretty straight forward
Very pleased with quality and ride on and off road. About what you would expect for install. Took about five hours on the lift taking my time. Couple fuzzy areas in the directions( rear brake lines relocate brackets, and correct washer stack on the front). I would definitely recommend it/ purchase one again.Helpful (4)
June 29, 2019
Great product, took me a little longer then it said it would. But looks great gives the Jeep the lift I wanted. Awesome product!Helpful (3)
September 13, 2018
Tereflex 3 inch
Perfect for what I need, 3" is the perfect size. Dont go off road, but if I decide to this will stand up to the conditions.Helpful (9)
Will this kit eliminate the factory rake? If not what are the possible options for doing so after kit is installed
what is the differences between this lift and the 2.5 with shocks .. I have run the 2.5 in the past with good results is this lift an upgrade ? what is different ?
My rubicon comes with push-button sway bar disconnect. If I install this kit, will I lose that feature?
Do I have to upgrade control arms? And what else must I add for a stock 2017 JKU sahara?
You would need control arms to allow for proper alignment of the geometry of your suspension and you would also nee aftermarket wheels with at least 4.5 inches or less of backspacing to eliminate any wheel rub.
Is it a must to use wheel spacers to install this kit on stock wheels?
Yes, the Teraflex 1.25 in. Wheel Offset Adapters, item number J10042, are required when using this kit with stock wheels.
Yes this is the exact same kit, it just does not include the track bar and control arms
This kit will work with 1.5" spacers on stock wheels.
(approx) 5 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box