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Video Review & Installation
Jake: Jake here for ExtremeTerrain, and today I'm taking a look at this Rough Country 3.5-inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with the Adjustable Vertex Coil-Overs and Vertex Reservoir Rear Shocks, fitting 2005 to 2023 6-lug Tacomas. If you're looking for a high-performance lift kit for your Tacoma that's not gonna completely blow out the budget, then look no further than this one from Rough Country.Not only is it gonna give you more height and more clearance for larger wheels and tires, but it'll also replace some new components and replace outworn suspension components. But you also get Rough Country's highest-performing shocks with the remote reservoirs.This kit gives you an aggressive stance while maintaining superb ride quality, so it's a great setup for the Tacoma owner who wants a little bit of everything. Since this is a 3.5-inch lift, you're going to get some extra clearance, of course, to run larger wheels and tires. As you can see on our truck, 33s will fit with no issues.Now, 34s may also fit, but anything larger than 33 is going to require at least some minor trimming. So, for that reason, we're going to call out 33-inch tires as our recommended largest size for this setup. And starting out up front, you get a set of new upper control arms. These are heavy-duty forged arms, and they include new Clevite rubber bushings with new ball joints as well. So, it's going to give you quite a nice refresh to the front end. It'll make a big difference when it comes to absorption of impacts out on the road.Like I mentioned, these are forged and they're made out of aluminum, so they're pretty lightweight, but they've got a lot of structural integrity baked in. Enough to hold up to whatever abuse you can throw at them out on the street or the trail. Now, you might have also noticed that there are ball joints pressed in here, and those ball joints are angled to accommodate for the added lift.So, despite adding quite a bit of height, these are going to keep things pretty close to your factory suspension geometry. It's going to make sure that the ball joints are operating at a proper angle, giving you full range of motion so you can take advantage of that added ride height. There's a couple of other things too I want to note before we talk about these shocks and struts. So, out back, you've got a set of blocks with new U-bolts.Now, the blocks are going to measure about a true 2 inches in height, and those new U-bolts will help keep everything secured and accommodate for that additional height. Since those blocks measure two inches, it's going to add up to about that 2-inch lift overall in the rear, meaning that this is also going to function as a leveling kit. It's going to even out the stance of your truck and eliminate that forward rake that these trucks come with from the factory. You even get a set of sway bar extension brackets, plus, all kinds of other hardware and other things that you need to make sure that all the geometry stays exactly where it should be. But the big story here are the shocks and struts.Now, this kit features Rough Country's top-of-the-line Vertex Series shocks. So, these are a heavy-duty high-end remote reservoir setup, and they're going to provide stellar off-road performance and excellent on-road manners, too. Now, for the front, as you can see here, they come pre-assembled as struts. So, these are going to bolt right in place of your factory struts, top hats, and everything. Both front and rear, they are a monotube design, and they're nitrogen-charged, but they've got these remote reservoirs with eight different preset settings.So, you can make adjustments, dial in the damping based on what you're going to be doing with your truck, and that is the coolest feature here. Now, these remote reservoirs are, first of all, pretty big. They're about the same size on both the front struts and the rear shocks here, and they're connected via this nice braided stainless steel line. They also come with the brackets that you need to mount the reservoirs in an accessible and safe location. The reservoir, again, is where you're going to find that adjustment for the damping, too.Now, remote reservoir shocks are pretty trick-pieces overall, and they can bring a lot of that off-road racing tech to your truck. The same benefits apply here. These are going to offer you a ton of control, really fast response, and the extra reservoir offers additional damping power. So, these are great for heat dissipation, meaning that you're not going to have any issues with fade if you're out on the trail and working your truck really hard, especially if you're hitting really quick undulations and moving kind of quickly.So, you can use these struts and shocks and your truck itself to their full potential without having to worry about issues with fading or losing control. And since you've got that adjustability, you can fine-tune the response to suit the conditions, too. So, if you're going out on the trail and you need to soften them up a little bit, or if you're getting back on the road, maybe hauling something in the bed, you can dial these up as well. It's pretty easy. Just click, click, click. And again, you've got eight different settings on here accessible by these knobs. Same deal front and rear.Construction here is all quite solid. As I mentioned, the control arms up front are made from that forged aluminum for strength and weight savings. There's no seams or welds on these to crack or break, so you can bet that they're going to be strong. Both the shocks front and rear feature a 22-millimeter chrome-hardened piston rod and a huge 2.5-inch piston with 3-stage seal systems for durability. Plus, you've got those braided steel lines.You also, again, get those new U-bolts and the fabricated brackets for your sway bar drop as well. Plus, you've got the composite spacers for the rear too. Since these are composite, they're going to be very nice and lightweight, and they're not going to crack or break or rust like metal would.As far as pricing goes, well, complete kits like this don't exactly come cheap. This one's going to run you about $2,800, so it is going to be a little costly. However, again, this is a totally inclusive kit that has pretty much everything that you're going to need down to the hardware.Not only is it a lift, but it's also a good portion of the way to a complete suspension refresh, too. You're getting that added height, the really nice, high-quality of remote reservoir shocks. So when you look at it from that perspective, you are getting a lot for your money as far as complete kits like this go. It is going to undercut some more comfortable kits out there on the market as far as price. So if you want to have it all without completely blowing out the budget, this one is going to be just what you're looking for.When it comes to the installation, this one is going to get a three out of three on our difficulty meter, and you should plan on it taking you upwards of six hours to get everything completed. Now, you can certainly get this job done at home in your driveway, especially since everything you need to do it is included aside from the tools, but it is an involved job. However, if you don't feel comfortable doing this sort of job yourself or getting that deep into the weeds, professional installation is always an option, and you can check out our install connect program right on our website. It's going to hook you up with a local shop who will get this installed for you for a flat rate.Good news, though, is that this is pretty much a bolt-on installation, and since those struts are fully assembled, you don't need to even mess with a spring compressor. One quick reminder, though, once you've got everything done, you're going to want to get an alignment since you are changing around the way the truck sits. So give everything a day or two to settle, get it aligned, and then go out and enjoy. With that, let's head over to the install bay. We'll show you how to get this one done on your truck.Man: So the tools you're going to need for this install include various size impact and air guns, electric ratchet, mallet, vise grip, needle nose pliers, flat head screwdriver, clip tool, a 22-millimeter, 21-millimeter, 19-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 14-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 12-millimeter, 10-millimeter, 8-millimeter sockets, 6-millimeter Allen, swivel socket, your 3/8 ratchet, 13-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 19-millimeter wrenches, 12-millimeter, 14-millimeter, and 19-millimeter ratcheting wrenches, your pry bar and jacks and/or pole jacks.What's up, guys, today we're going to be installing a lift kit on our Tacoma, but before we get started, we're going to send you to watch a short video on how to uninstall your stock components and I'll meet you back here for the install.Man 2: So our first step is to remove our brake line bracket from our knuckle. It's held in by a 12-millimeter bolt, so we'll grab a 12-millimeter socket to take that out. Then we'll just pop our bracket out of the way and throw our bolt back into the knuckle so we don't lose it. Now, right above that bolt we removed for our brake line bracket, we can remove the 17-millimeter nut on our sway bar end link. So, you can take a 17-millimeter socket to remove this. If the ball joint starts to spin, you can get in the hex cutout on the stud with a 6-millimeter Allen bit to hold it in place.Next, we can remove our tie rod end, so we can grab a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend back our cotter pin and remove it. And then once we have our cotter pin removed, we can grab a 19-millimeter socket to remove our castle nut. And then we can leave that on a few threads, and we're gonna take a hammer and bang on the knuckle here to pop our ball joint free. And then we can fully remove our castle nut and slide our tie rod end out of our knuckle.Next, we can remove our upper ball joint from our knuckle. So once again, we'll get a pair of needle nose pliers for our cotter pin. And then we can take a 19-millimeter socket to remove the nut. I'm using a swivel adapter here to get in there easier. And then we'll also leave that one on a couple threads. And then we can take our hammer and bang on the knuckle. And then we can fully remove our nut. Next, we can remove our lower strut bolt. So we're going to grab a 19-millimeter wrench on our bolt side and a 19-millimeter socket on our nut side to take this out. And then we can tap out our bolt with a hammer. And if that bolt doesn't wanna come out, you can get a pry bar just to get the leverage you need to pull it out.Next, we can take a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench to remove the three nuts at the top of our strut. Now, we're going to get that back one out first just because it's harder to get to. And the two in the front will hold it in place so that you can just screw it off by hand. Make sure not to drop this into the pit of no return. And then just hold the strut as you take off that last nut. And now with our upper and lower strut mounts removed, we can maneuver our strut out of place. Now, once you have your strut removed on one side, you can repeat that same process on the other side.Now, to remove our upper control arm, the first thing we need to do is remove these two covers. So, it's just held in by a bunch of push clips. So we'll get a clip remover tool just to pop these out. Then next, we have a 10-millimeter bolt that holds in our ABS line bracket. So now we can grab that 10-millimeter socket to take that bolt out. And now we have the fun task of removing the super-long bolt.So we'll get a 19-millimeter socket on the nut side and a 19-millimeter wrench on the bolt side to get our nut off. And then we'll pop off our washer. And now we're gonna have to start sliding our bolt behind this inner lip of the fender here. You might have to grab a pair of vice grips to pull back on the metal. We'll start feeding that through. You might have to get some wires pushed out of the way. And then we can do that same thing on the other side.Next, we can remove our splash guard. This is held in by a bunch of 10-millimeter bolts. There are two tucked away on the inside of the splash guard on either side, so we'll get those first and then remove the whole bunch of them across the front. So we'll grab a 10-millimeter socket and take these out. And then we can do that same thing for the two inner bolts on the other side. So now coming to the front, we can remove the rest of our 10-millimeter bolts. Next, we can remove our skid plate. We've got four 12-millimeter bolts that hold it in. So we'll grab a 12-millimeter socket to take these out. And then we can just pop these off for two hooks and remove it.Man 1: So now it's time to install our diff spacer. Make sure that you have a pole jack supporting the front diff so it doesn't fall. Now you're going to take your 22-millimeter socket and your 19-millimeter wrench to loosen that up. Slide it out. Now with your new included hardware, you're going to have the bolt, new washer, OEM plate with the top hat facing up. And now you can lower down your diff for clearance for your spacer. Slide in your spacer. Insert the bolt and your washer nut on top. Now using your 19-millimeter socket and 19-millimeter wrench, you can tighten that down. And you can repeat that process on the other side.So now it's time to install our front reservoir bracket. You're going to use your 14-millimeter socket to take off the two sway bar bolts. So now we're gonna install our drop bracket. You're gonna take your included bolts and insert them into the hexed areas. And making sure that this drilled hole is facing towards the back of the vehicle, where you're going to grab your bracket and your two 14-millimeter OEM bolts. Line the holes up and insert them into place.Now you're going to take your 14-millimeter socket and tighten it down. Important to note that this lip here should be facing towards the back of the vehicle and to not get them mixed up. Now that your drop bracket is set in place, you're going to take your bracket from your sway bar and attach it back on. And now with the bolts that were included in the kit, you can slide them into place and screw on your 15-millimeter nuts. And now with your 15-millimeter socket, you can tighten them down. And now you can repeat that process on the other side.Next step is the upper control arm. You're gonna wanna get it lined up into place. Grab your bolt and feed it through the fender. Grab your washer. So now that that's through, you can grab your washer and your nut and tighten it down. Now, before we tighten this all the way down, we're going to make sure that the upper control arm is lined up with the bolt going through. Now we can tighten it down with our 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench and 19-millimeter wrench. Now we can repeat that process on the other side.So now it's time to install our strut. We're gonna make sure that the fitting is aimed towards the front of the vehicle. And you're going to thread your 17-millimeter bolts and crush washers. And now using your 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, we're gonna tighten down these three bolts. So you're going to slide your bolt through the bracket. You're going to want to lift up the lower control arm to get it lined up. Thread on your 19-millimeter nut and washer.Now using your 19-millimeter socket and 19-millimeter wrench, we're going to tighten that down. Now you can repeat that process on the other side. So now you're going to loop in your worm clamp through the first hole. Then you're going to slide in your reservoir. Just want to get it snugged up. Then you want to grab your second worm clamp, loop it around the bracket. And using your 8-millimeter socket, we can tighten them both down. And now you can repeat that process on the other side.So now we're going to be adding our spacers to our skid plate braces. We're going to have to take out the OEM bolts and replace them with the new bolts that are included in the kit. So now using your 17-millimeter socket, we're going to take them off. So now you're going to take your new bolt and washer and line the spacer up and you're going to thread it into place. And now using your 19-millimeter socket, we're gonna tighten them all down. Now you can repeat that process on the other side.Now it's time to attach our upper control arm to our knuckle. Get a pry bar, line up the hole. Spread your nut on. And now using your 21-millimeter socket, you're gonna tighten that down. Now you can repeat that process on the other side. Next, we're gonna be installing our brake line brackets. You're gonna take your bracket, line it up with the hole. Thread your bolt in. Using your 10-millimeter socket, you can tighten that down. Next to our lower bracket, you're going to line this hook up with the hole above the threaded lock hole. And using your 12-millimeter socket, you can tighten that down. Now you can repeat that process on the other side.Next is our sway bar end link. You're going to line the stud up through the hole of the knuckle. Slide it through and thread on your 17-millimeter nut. And using your 17-millimeter socket, you can tighten that down. And you repeat that on the other side. So now it's time to install our outer tie rod and unscrew the castle nut. Line the stud up with the hole. Thread your nut on. And using your 19-millimeter socket, you're going to tighten that down, making sure that one of the slots in the nut is lined up with the hole in the stud. So now that you have your hole lined up, you can insert your cotter pin. Peel back your pins. And then you can repeat that process on the other side.So now we're gonna be installing our skid plate. You can put these through the hooks to let them hang. And you get thread in your 12-millimeter bolts. Now using your 12-millimeter socket, you can tighten them down. Now we're going to be installing our splash guard. You can line your holes up and thread in your 10-millimeter screws. And now that you have them threaded in, you're going to tighten them down with your 10-millimeter socket. Lastly, you have two screws on this side and two on the other. And now you can tighten them down with your 10-millimeter socket.Now we're going to be installing our mat. We're not going to be installing the front mat because our new reservoir is in the way. I'm just going to line these holes up and click them into place. And you repeat that on the other side. With the front done, now we'll move to the rear. But first, we'll show you a clip of the rear being uninstalled, then I'll be back to show you how to get your new parts installed.Man 2: Now, moving on to the rear, to remove our shock, we have a 14-millimeter nut at the top. We also have a piece of the stud up here that we can grab with a set of vice grips to prevent the whole stud from spinning. And then at the bottom, we have a 17-millimeter bolt with a 17-millimeter nut. So we'll take that off with a 17-millimeter socket and wrench. So now we'll get our 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench onto our nut. And then we'll slide our vise grips onto our stud. And then we can put the vice grips against our frame here to prevent it from spinning and loosen up our nut.Then we can remove those vice grips and get our nut the rest of the way off. And then we can remove our metal plate and bushing and then work on our lower shock mount. And now we'll come to our lower shock mount and get a 17-millimeter socket and wrench to remove our bolt. Now, if you have trouble getting this out, you can just compress the shock to remove it. And we can use a pry bar to get it out of our lower mount. And then we can do that same thing on the other side.So next, we can remove the four nuts that are holding our axle to our leaf spring. You're going to want to get a pole jack on each side for this to support the weight of the axle. And then we'll grab a 19-millimeter socket to loosen up these nuts. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. And now we can just pull up on our U-bolts to remove them. And do the same thing on the other side.So now we're going to be installing our shock reservoir bracket. There's two 12-millimeter bolts up top. You have to unscrew, slide in your bracket, and tighten back down. And the passenger side is two open holes, so you have to use your included hardware to tighten the bracket down. So now using your 12-millimeter ratcheting wrench, we're going to take out the two bolts. Now we're going to slide our bracket into place. So now that you have your bolts in place, you're gonna be using your 12-millimeter ratcheting wrench to tighten them down.Now that you have them tightened, you can repeat that process on the other side. So now it's time to install our lift block. It is important to know that there is a small and tall side. The tall side goes facing towards the back of the vehicle. So now you're going to lift up the leaf springs and slide the stud into the hole of the axle. And you repeat that process on the other side. So now we're gonna be installing our U-bolts. You're gonna put them in over each end of the bump stop and line it up with your bracket that goes under here. Now we can throw down our 22-millimeter nuts and washer. Now using your 22-millimeter socket, you can tighten them down. Now you can repeat that process on the other side.So now it's time to install our shock. The setup is washer, bushing, washer that has a top hat so it lines up with the hole in the bracket. And bushing, washer, and 17-millimeter nut. So now you're gonna slide it into place, making sure that your reservoir is face to the left. Slide that through. Bushing, washer, 17-millimeter nut. Just thread that into place. Now using your 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, you can tighten it down. Now you can repeat that process on the other side.So now it's time to insert our shock into the lower mount. You're going to want to lift it up with your pry bar to decompress. And you can use your mallet to tap it into place. And important note is you can lower the setting to reduce your stiffness to make it easier to push up into the bracket. So now that you have it lined up, you could use your 17-millimeter bolt and push it through. And your washer and your 17-millimeter nut, thread it on. Now you can use your 17-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten that down. And you can repeat that process on the other side.So now it's time to install our reservoir to our bracket using our two included clamps. You want to line this up into place. Using your two clamps, you can tighten them down on either side. Using your 8-millimeter socket, you can tighten it down. And get your second one, tighten it down. Now that you have both of them in place, you can tighten them down. All right. So now you can repeat that process on the other side.So that's going to wrap up our install on our Rough Country 3.5-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Vertex Adjustable Coil-Overs and Vertex Reservoir Shocks for your '05 and newer 6-lug Tacoma. Thanks for watching, and for all things Tacoma, keep it here at extremeterrain.com.
Boosts Off-Road Performance. Take your Tacoma to the next level by installing this Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Adjustable Vertex Coil-Overs and Vertex Reservoir Shocks. The kit lifts your truck by 3.50 inches and allows larger tires with up to 34-inch diameter to be installed. Finally, it includes Adjustable Vertex Coil-Overs and Vertex Reservoir Shocks to maximize the off-roading performance of your truck.
Adjustable Vertex Coil-Overs and Vertex Reservoir Shocks. The Adjustable Vertex Coil-overs feature a monotube design and a 2.50-inch piston with an 8-stage damping, adjustable for on or off-road driving. On the other hand, the nitrogen-charged Vertex Reservoir Shocks feature a 46mm high-flow piston with 36kN tensile strength that’s ready for rides on rugged terrains. Expect these shocks to offer maximum on and off-road damping performance for your Tacoma.
Tubular Upper Control Arms. Tubular upper control arms optimize your truck to achieve the factory-like geometry after lifting. They improve ride height and ball-joint performance.
Fabricated Rear Blocks and Struts. This suspension lift kit includes rear lift blocks and N3 loaded spacers to lift your truck by 3.50 inches. And as a result, tires with up to 34-inch diameter can be installed for more exciting off-roading.
Installation. You can install this suspension lift kit by reusing the factory bolt locations of your Tacoma. Standard tools can be used for the installation. Minor cutting is required.
Rough Country Warranty. Rough Country grants a lifetime replacement warranty for this suspension lift kit. It also offers a 3-year manufacturer’s warranty to Adjustable Vertex Coil-Overs and Vertex Reservoir Shocks. Please visit the manufacturer’s website or contact customer service for more information.
Application. This Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Adjustable Vertex Coil-Overs and Vertex Reservoir Shocks fits all 2005-2023 6-Lug Tacoma models.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
