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Rough Country N3 Loaded Leveling Front Struts for 2-Inch Lift (05-23 6-Lug Tacoma)

Item TT6668
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$349.95 (pair)

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      Product Videos

      Jake: Jake here for ExtremeTerrain, and in this video, I'm taking a look at the Rough Country N3 Loaded Leveling Front Struts for 2-inch lift fitting 2005 to 2023 6-lug Toyota Tacomas. If you're looking for a quick and easy way to get some additional height on your Tacoma, level out the stands, or get some improved dynamics, then these struts from Rough Country will be just what you're after. They come fully assembled for a simple installation, and they're made for an easy, effective lift.So what we've got here are basically a set of Rough Country N3 shocks, fully assembled into a strut. Now these are going to get you two inches of lift in the front end, essentially functioning as a leveling kit. So you will be able to get up to 31-inch tires on with this kit, and you can get some pretty aggressive 31s on, but anything larger than that is going to require additional modifications. Now as you can see, and I've already mentioned a couple of times by now, these struts come pre-assembled, hence the name. So there is no need to mess with a spring compressor or anything like that. Just bolt them right in as they come out of the box. As you see them here is exactly how I took them out of the box, save for the little bag that they came in.Now the N3 shocks inside are nitrogen charged and they feature infinitely variable damping, so it's going to give you a really nice, smooth, almost stock type of ride quality. They also feature application-specific velocity sensitive valving. So what that means is that these are designed and built specifically for the Tacoma right out of the gate. So the damping and the valving and everything inside here is designed to work on a Tacoma specifically. So while these are similar to other N3s, each one is tuned for a specific application. Now these are all also specifically tuned for lifted applications. So all that means that the damping is going to be tuned to keep the ride smooth out on the road, while still doing a good job of absorbing impacts and controlling rebound out on the trail. That nitrogen charging also helps with heat dissipation, so even under aggressive off-roading conditions, these shocks aren't going to suffer from fade. So that means that you can use them to their full extent without worrying about them fading or losing control of your vehicle.Construction here is all quite solid as we've come to expect from these things. The shocks have this massive 1 and 3/8-inch bore with hardened chrome piston rods inside, so they're going to stand up to the elements quite well too. The bodies are finished in a silver powder coat for good looks and durability. The springs are wound from the typical spring type of steel. They're nice and thick, and they're also finished in a black powder coat to help protect against rust and corrosion. And like I mentioned earlier, you do get brand new top mounts with all the hardware included and new lower bushings as well, making these a totally bolt-in installation. We'll talk more about that in a moment.First, the price. Pricing for this kit comes in at about $400, and that is a really good price for a set of struts, especially considering you get some additional height and performance out of these. Now, there are less expensive options out there, but they're not going to have the same feature set that you get with the M3s. And for a truck that's going to see some mixed street and trail usage, this is an excellent choice. It's going to fit well with what you want your truck to do, and it should fit into almost any build's budget.Installation will get a two out of three, and it's likely going to take you about three hours to complete the job. Now these, again, make for a pretty simple installation since they come pre-assembled as you see them here. So really you just need to get your factory struts out and bolt these in their place. No need to mess with a spring compressor or anything like that. So this is certainly a job you can accomplish at home in your driveway. You don't really need any special tools. Just however, as I always say when we're doing suspension modifications, make sure you get your truck aligned once you've got everything buttoned up, and give it a day or two to settle. And with that, let's hand things over to one of our XT customers who's going to walk you through the process.Male: All right, so we're doing the coil spring in 2006 Tacoma, and here's the tools I'm going to go over that you will need. I do have extras here. I'm doing a couple other things. But main tools, you're going to need metric sockets. Big ones are you need a 19-millimeter and you need a 17-millimeter. They're the two that are important. You also have a 15 and a 14-millimeter. The 14 is to take the old struts off, and 15 is to put the new ones on. I have wire brush because it's rusty. I have some penetrant. I have the tie rod end puller. Not sure if that's going to work so I have a pickle fork. I have a couple pry bars, some pliers, hammers, torque wrenches. I have two torque wrenches. One is a half inch, one is 3/8. The 3/8 one will fit on top to torque the top of the struts. Some pliers, a couple impact guns.So that's pretty much all the tools you're gonna need. It's not too involved with tools. Pretty much standard ones, nothing extravagant. So, there we go. So first thing first is we're gonna jack up the truck and remove the front wheels. I'm gonna do both because it is easier to take off both of the sway bar links and kind of move it out of the way to put the new strut in. So we're gonna lift up both sides. I have logs that I use, put them under the frame. It's pretty sturdy. I have a couple jack stands that I'm gonna put under there as well. So I'm gonna get on that.So there we have it jacked up. I have the logs under the frame, and the jack is under the center support, the front. That's kind of just holding it steady. So let's lift it up. Wanna try to get it a good bit off the ground because it makes it easier to pull the struts out. We're replacing the struts. These struts have a spacer on top to give the truck a lift. The new ones I got are all incorporated into the strut. There's no spacer, but it's still going to give it the same amount of lift. We're going to need to take off sway bar extension. I'm actually replacing them anyway. We got to take off the tie rod end. We got to take off the bolts on top of the strut. The bottom bolt on the strut. And the two bolts underneath the wheel bearing thing, whatever they're called. They are 2 19-millimeters. They need to come off.We can take this thing out, and move it aside, and you'll be able to push the lower control arm down a little bit and take the strut out the bottom. I am also doing the CV axle. I don't know if you can see it, but the boot's ripped. So this whole thing from what I'm doing is going to be loose, but you still can. The sway bar, we're gonna take both links off, this side and the other side, because if you just move it out of the way, you'll have plenty of room to pull the strut out. I think you can get it out without doing the sway bar, without doing both sides, but you'll have to fight it. So, to me, it's just easier just to take it off both sides. So we're going to get on it.So first things first, I got my wire brush here, and I'm just gonna hit a couple of these real quick and spray them, just to get a little bit of the crap off. Get the top ones up here. I'm probably not doing much, but I feel like it helps. [inaudible] And then we're going to spray them. So this stud has a star. You can use that or you can put vise grips on here. I'll show you that in a second. Easiest way to get it off is some vise grip. [inaudible] And then the two bolts underneath. [inaudible] bolt on the strut. I'm going to get that. That one we have to reuse, so hopefully you can get it out without destroying it. This one actually we can spray all around because that one's going to be tough.All right, so that's that. We're going to go ahead and see if we can take off the sway bar link. We'll give it a shot first to see what it does. [inaudible] So we're going to get vise grips. Put them on there. Hopefully that works. Oh, yeah, love it. [inaudible] All right. The sway bar link is out and I did undo the other side so you can see it has [inaudible]. It's much easier to do the strut with that thing loose on both sides. That is that. I'm going to stick this nut back on here, but I actually am replacing the sway bar links as well. I'm doing the sway bar links, the tie rods, strut, and CV axle. Figure to do it all at once, get it done. And next is [inaudible] and I'm gonna need to get some pliers. So I'm gonna take off tie rod end [inaudible] and there's a the cotter pin. I want to say there was a cotter pin. It's not there anymore. It's still in there. It just the end's not there anymore. So I'm going to try to pry that out. And I don't really have any room to hit this. So... Okay, that's... So you may end up having to drill that [inaudible] another piece. Pr you can just put the gun on, maybe it'll just rip it off. Because it is pretty beat up.Let me see if we can get a socket on it. Yep, okay, so that is a 19-millimeter. And we're gonna see what this does. Okay, so it's turning it. All right. Oh, here's a piece of the cotter pin. That's great. Well, that's gone. So that's that. Now I [inaudible] into this. All right, so there's a couple ways [inaudible]. Some people just hit it and it falls out. I've never been that lucky. So you don't want to ruin it. You can try to pull it. I don't even know if this is [inaudible] So we're going to give it a shot. [inaudible] And on there, the top is a 3/4. [inaudible] replacing these. So I'm going to end up using this [inaudible] So it actually worked. [inaudible] One's actually not bad, but [inaudible] The tie rod is out of the way, the sway bar, as you can see, is actually loose. So, that's good.So next we're going to get the bolts on the top. [inaudible] Let's see how these do. So they are 14 millimeters. They're gonna be fine. All right, that's not awful. All right. [inaudible] on there. That one's always fun, right? I'm gonna take two of these all the way off, and we'll leave the other one on a little bit, just so it doesn't fall down, I'm gonna leave it up there. There we go. Pretty rusted. That's all right. We don't need them. All right. [inaudible] Now, like I said, I'm gonna leave that one on a little bit. [inaudible] All right. So the next one is, we're gonna [inaudible] on is the bottom bolt. That is a 19, which I have right here [inaudible] one here. And we'll see if we can pop it off without holding the other side. So we'll see. I'm gonna put another 19 for the other side. I'm gonna put a 19 on the other end. [inaudible] all the way. And we'll try this again.Air compressor is charged up. Give it a shot. I got [inaudible] the other side to hold it. Wow. That's hot. We do need to reuse that so... All right. There's a washer, get the washer off. I'm gonna spray it again. [inaudible] inside there [inaudible] We're gonna tap it, see if it [inaudible] They go in there pretty good. They're not too good. I need to grab my [inaudible]. So actually what we're going to do is we're going to leave that for right now. We don't want to undo the lower bolts. So underneath you have two 19-millimeter bolts. [inaudible] to come off, and we're gonna see how they... Let's see. [inaudible] They actually are in decent shape. There's the two bolts underneath [inaudible] to the lower control arm.So like I said, I'm doing a couple other things too. This won't pertain to doing the coil spring. But I'm gonna be replacing the CV axle, so I have this 35-millimeter, goes on there. Get that off. [inaudible] Give them a couple of whacks. Get it in. [inaudible] So this thing is actually loose. I have it unbolted from the bottom. One thing I like to do is I put a jack under here, and lift this up so it's not so tight in here. Let me go get [inaudible] I put a piece of wood under it so I don't hurt anything. And then just hopefully it doesn't spin around. [inaudible] You can see the rust falling off. All right, so that gives you a little bit more room to play with with your strut.All right, so now I'm going to take out the bottom bolt from the strut [inaudible] punch. Off and through. [inaudible] put the nut and the washer back on it. I will clean this up. So it's [inaudible] And now, our strut is actually free, that's why we didn't put that left [inaudible] on there. It's [inaudible] from here. So we're gonna need to get a pry bar so we can pry this down and pull that out. So [inaudible] knuckle down here where the [inaudible] ball joint is, I'm going to try to fit a pry bar in there. Just grab it. And you can lower down [inaudible] but you got to push on it pretty good. You can see the strut drop. So that's good.I think what I'm gonna is I'm gonna undo the bracket or the sway bar. So I'm just gonna pop that off. And that will give me enough room to move it over, and it'll make it so much easier to get the strut out. All right, so they look like they're about 14-millimeter. [inaudible] clean those [inaudible] go back. All right. So that's gonna give us some room to play with. One thing we could do is we could tie these out of the way, or if you have a helper, that'd be nice. [inaudible] just coming off easy [inaudible] not so much. [inaudible] There you go. So that'll be the easiest way. I think you can get it [inaudible] with it to get it up in there, but that's just the easiest way it's going to come out. [inaudible] I mean, it just makes it a lot easier. Sway bar, popped off the sway bar mount, and that came right out.So next thing I'm going to do is I'm doing the CV axle. So we're going to pop this thing out, and then pop the CV axle out of the differential. And then we need an oil pan because it's gonna leak. All right, so we're going to put the new CV axle back in. I've got some grease. We're going to grease up this pin on the end, the seating [SP] clip, just to help it slide in a little bit easier. Get some grease on there. And what you're gonna wanna do is you wanna line it up, and there's a couple of different ways to get it in. [inaudible] It'd be nice to have a second person. So what you want to do is you want to line the grooves up inside. You got to get in a little ways. [inaudible] in there. Once you get in a little bit, we're gonna hit it on the end [inaudible]. So you wanna try and keep it straight. And it goes in two spots. First one [inaudible] There we go.All right, now, you've got to press this thing all the way, leave the nut on it. And you can hit it to get the [inaudible] There's one way [inaudible] pull this aside, and pull that aside. [inaudible] Make sure that ring is inside the cover, the other part. And [inaudible] and you'll feel it. If you don't feel it, that's definitely a problem. She's in there. Don't hit that without the nut on it because you'll mess it up or take the nut off. And we're gonna get the CV axel back into the wheel bearing. Like this. Actually, let me put a little grease on that [inaudible] See, I don't use my gloves when I grease it because my gloves are dirty. I don't want dirty in grease. [inaudible] You're gonna wind that up. [inaudible] there. This is definitely an easier job [inaudible] I know I say that a lot [inaudible] got it in there. Oh, that was lucky, I think. I think I got a little lucky. I threw the nut on it [inaudible]CV axel's in. It's actually not that bad of a job to do. One thing I do check when I do these is feel that lower control arm bearing there. So make sure it feels good. It moves around. [inaudible] All right. So we're actually going to be putting our strut back in. So [inaudible] And for that, we're actually going to need to put the jack back under this because I'm going to have to cut that. So [inaudible] out of there. [inaudible] And now we're going to get the new strut. All right. First thing we want to do is take off the nuts, because they obviously won't belong [SP]. And then the second thing you want to do, you want to kind of line it up out here so you're not messing with it. So, you can only go in one way. You have one bolt in the back, two in the front, and that has to face this way. So it's going in like this. We'll probably gonna need a pry bar. We're gonna be pushing that down to get this in there. So we want to get this guy in. And then[inaudible] and grab the nut. [inaudible] nut on it, make sure [inaudible] And then you [inaudible] And I'm going to use up this side [inaudible] mount goes, just give it a little bit [inaudible] aroundWe're going to have to push this down and slide the new strut in the place. And now [inaudible] Leave that in there now. I'm gonna clean that bolt up, and go over to my wire wheel and clean it up and make it look better. I cleaned up the bolt. Clean up the threads and the sleeve part a little bit. I'm actually going to [inaudible] just on the part of grommet one. On there. And then the bolt goes from the back of the truck to the front. And we'll see if we can get that on not moving too much stuff. [inaudible] right now. [inaudible] get a little bit of fiddling. [inaudible] Take our washer and the nut. And get [inaudible] And that goes back on there. You just snug it up in there. [inaudible] to get to that. And see we got our last nut for the top. [inaudible] get that down. [inaudible] All right.[inaudible] You can use the 3/8 for this one. And let's see what the torque is for these. Top of the coil is 47 foot pounds. So we're going to set our wrench up. It's just a click type. It's not that expensive. There's 50... Let me go back. There we go, 47. [inaudible]Let me see if I can get this one in here. And I don't know [inaudible] So the top is torqued. The bottom, the lower control arm is 103. So set that up on this one. This one is 19 [inaudible] Bottom's torqued. Strut is in. CV axel is in. I'm also replacing with my links for my sway bar. And the strut doesn't feel bad, but the [inaudible] is a little bit messed up, so we're replacing those two. I'm gonna start connecting this all back together. I took the sway bar link off, and I put a new tie rod end on. [inaudible] I'm gonna get this folded back to the lower control arm. So, I think I'm gonna jack it up, lower that down. And let that hang. You may need to jack again because I think [inaudible] lower bolts, they're kind of [inaudible] We're gonna set that where it kind of needs to be. I think I'm gonna need [inaudible] So we're gonna try to get the bottom [inaudible]You may have to jack up the back up under the control arm. [inaudible] under the control arm. [inaudible] Get our 19-millimeter. I'm just gonna snug them up. [inaudible] torquing. Get that jack out of the way. [inaudible] this one here. All right. Since we're going there, [inaudible] torque down [inaudible] with the 19 [inaudible] All right, it's torqued. I'm gonna put the tie rod back in. Again, I put the new one on, and then I have nice new bolt and a nice new [inaudible] These ones [inaudible] bigger boots [inaudible] And then I got a [inaudible] See if we can get the [inaudible] on. [inaudible] just snug it down [inaudible] torque that. So, let's see what that's supposed to be. Tie rod is 67. [inaudible] but I might need to turn it a little bit more to line up the hole for the cotter pin. [inaudible] So I'm gonna give that a little bit more [inaudible]We got to turn it just a hair more. Line it up. That looks good. [inaudible] the cotter pin. There. That's in. And the last thing we have is our new sway bar link. [inaudible] So we're gonna put that in. So these have the Allen key. We're going to utilize that to tighten so we don't damage them. So I need to go grab one. [inaudible] Allen key. Looks like it's about 5, and the nut is a 17. So we're gonna put our ratchet end on it, and then put the nut in and hold it with a ratchet. There it goes. [inaudible] this one up. [inaudible] and that up. Great. [inaudible] Like I said, you do need assortment of socket, so I've got a short 17-millimeter, and I've got my torque wrench [inaudible] There we go, all right. Let's try this one [inaudible] Allen key in there. [inaudible] Hopefully, once you get it [inaudible] So this is gonna happen [inaudible] All right. Just [inaudible] All right, that is back together. We have everything in. Looks like we got everything torqued. That [inaudible] I think that's it. I got to tighten up our bolt here for CV axel. That one's actually kind of tough to torque because it's gonna spin. So I do check it after I put the tire on, and put it back on the ground. It's gonna be pretty [inaudible] back on. I'll put the tire down, and then I'll torque that to specs.Jake: That's gonna do it for our review and install the Rough Country N3 Loaded Leveling Front Struts for 2-inch lift fitting 2005 to 2023 6-Lug Tacomas. Thanks so much for watching. And as always, for all things Tacoma, be sure to keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Front Leveling N3 Struts
      • Increases Front Ride Height by 2 Inches
      • Designed for Lifted Vehicle Applications
      • Not Adjustable
      • Built with Massive Bores and Hardened Chromed Piston Rods
      • Black Powder Coat Finish
      • Features Leak-Proof Piston Seal
      • Nitrogen Gas-Charged
      • Includes a Pre-Loaded Coil
      • Infinitely Variable Damping
      • Bolt-On Installation; No Strut Disassembly Is Required
      • Supported by a 3-Year Limited Warranty
      • Made to Fit 2005-2023 6-Lug Toyota Tacoma Models

      Description

      Maintains Factory-Like Ride Quality. Increasing your truck’s ride height often alters your ride quality but not with these Rough Country 2-Inch Front Leveling N3 Struts. With these N3 struts, your truck will be able to achieve an extra 2-inch lift while maintaining a factory-like ride. Furthermore, these struts keep your truck’s tires in contact with the ground, providing better stability and improved driving performance.

      Durable Construction. To support your truck’s heavy weight, these N3 struts are constructed with durable components. Each strut is built with a massive bore and hardened chromed piston rod. What’s more, the struts are powder coated with a black finish to protect against rust and corrosion.

      Bolt-On Installation. These struts are easy to install especially if you are geared with the right mechanical skills. Built with a bolt-on design, you can directly mount these struts to your vehicle’s existing points. Furthermore, they come with pre-loaded coils to facilitate a quick installation. No strut disassembly is required.

      Supported by a 3-Year Limited Warranty. Rough Country is supporting this product with a 3-year limited warranty. To learn about the warranty claim process, terms, and conditions, you may visit the official Rough Country website.

      Application. The Rough Country 2-Inch Front Leveling N3 Struts are made to fit all 2005-2023 6-Lug Toyota Tacoma models.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Rough Country 501075

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Leveling N3 Struts
      4.8

      Customer Reviews (6)

        Brand Image

        Reviews of Rough Country Suspension products have an average rating of 4.7 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My Tacoma

          • 2.7L I4 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 23
          • 3.5L V6 - 23
          • 4.0L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15