- (1) Driveshaft
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I'm Ryan from extremeterrain.com, and this is my review of the Rough Country extended rear driveshaft, fitting all 2007 and up JKs. Now, the front driveshaft on your JK is going to be the same, regardless of whether you have a two-door or a four-door. However, when you're talking about rear driveshafts, obviously, the four-door is going to be longer, so there are two different driveshafts, one for the two-door and one for the four-door. There are also going to be a couple of different driveshafts available, depending on what year your Jeep is. When Jeep went from the 3.8 liter to the 3.6 liter, they changed where the transmission and, therefore, the transfer case were, so the driveshaft is a slightly different length. So, manufacturers just ship one driveshaft for all year ranges, however, Rough Country does break it down to a couple of different ranges, so make sure you get the right driveshaft for your year and your body style. Today, we're going to talk through the installation of this driveshaft, which is a very simple one-out-of-three-wrench installation. This will bolt directly in place of your factory driveshaft. We're also going to talk a little bit about the construction and a few of the other features of the driveshaft. This is for those of you who have three and a half to six inches of lift on your JK and are looking for a longer driveshaft that isn't going to max out lengthwise when you're at full droop on the trail. This is also going to provide more strength than your factory driveshaft would, thanks to the fact that it is a CVDC driveshaft. However, this is significantly less expensive than some of those top-quality most expensive driveshafts on the market, and I have to imagine that part of that is from quality. So if you're just looking for something that is longer, I think this is a good option. If you're looking for something that is absolutely the strongest out there because you're running 37- or 40-inch tires on your JK, doing some really hardcore off-roading, then I would recommend taking a look at one of the more expensive driveshafts that are out there. As I said before, this is for those of you with three and a half to six inches of lift on your JK. This is going to be plenty of long for that amount of lift, so you're not going to max out on driveshaft length at full droop on the trail. Now, this is a constant velocity double cardan or CVDC driveshaft, and what that means is, right up here in the joint, this is going to have two different U-joints. This is going to have a centering ball inside of it. All of that makes it really strong when you're transferring power, and also makes it very smooth, as well. This driveshaft also comes with a couple of yokes. From the factory, your driveshaft detaches to your differential and to the transfer case with a flange. Adding these yokes will add strength, but also decreases the length of the transfer case a little bit, so you get to have a longer driveshaft, which means a flatter driveshaft angle, which is always a good thing. The U-joints and the centering ball that come in this driveshaft are both greaseable and, of course, you'll want to keep grease in them. However, it's important to note that the centering ball does not have a traditional Zerk fitting on it. That normal Zerk fitting, you'll attach your grease gun to it, it'll hold on there, you can pump grease in there, no problem. With this, you actually have to have a small attachment for your grease gun in order to push down the ball bearing and fill that centering ball with grease, so it's something you'll have to purchase separately. It's not expensive, but it is important that you get that, and it is important that you keep this centering ball greased. This is something that you're going to have to service on a regular basis, either at your oil change intervals or when you rotate your tires, to make sure that everything stays greased. Otherwise, this certainly will fail. Keep it greased, you'll have no problem. So, as I said before, this is a simple one-out-of-three-wrench installation. This is going to be very easy to install in your Jeep. The first step is to remove all of the bolts that are holding your factory driveshaft into both flanges, the one on your pinion and the one on your transfer case. Then, you'll need a large socket in order to remove those flanges. Now, this is going to be over a one-inch socket. It's probably not something that you're going to have laying around, so you'll definitely want to pick one up before you start with this installation. Once you have those flanges removed, you'll install these new yokes in their place using those factory nuts. You also may need a breaker bar to get the nuts off because they can be very tight and possibly even have a little bit of Loctite on them. And when you're reinstalling them, you will want to install them with a torque wrench, torque them to spec. All of the specs are in the instructions for this driveshaft. Once you have your new yokes in place, you'll just go ahead and bolt up the driveshaft with the included hardware. At that point, you'll want to make sure that all of the C-clips holding your U-joints in place are seated properly. And these do come out of the factory grease, but you'll want to make sure that they are, in fact, greased before you drive down a road with this thing installed. The whole installation process shouldn't take you more than an hour to get done. However, you are going to need that larger socket that we talked about. You're going to need your torque wrench. Just make sure that you torque everything to spec and you're going to be good to go. Now, depending on the state of your Jeep when you're installing this, you are going to want to make sure you put your transfer case in four-wheel drive, put the Jeep in park, or in gear and set your emergency brake. That's going to make both loosening and tightening that nut on your transfer case output shaft a lot easier because it's going to keep that shaft from wanting to spin if the Jeep is in neutral, if all four tires are off the ground. In a lot of different scenarios, that output shaft will spin freely and you're not going to be able to break that loose. It's a lot easier to put your Jeep in gear, put the transfer case in gear, set the emergency brake, than it is to try and hold on to that flange with a big pair of pliers and break it loose or tighten it. As I said before, this is significantly less expensive than, say, the Rugged Ridge version of these extended driveshafts. About half, actually. And I have to believe that part of that cost difference is in the quality of the driveshaft. Now, if you're just looking for something that's longer, you have 33s or 35s, you do some light wheeling, this is going to be absolutely fine and it's going to save you a lot of money. However, if you have a big, heavy wheel tire combination, 37s or bigger, and you do really hardcore off-roading, you're probably going to want to look for one of those driveshafts that have some additional features built into them that will provide some more strength. So if you're looking for a longer rear driveshaft for your JK so that you can go full droop on the trail with a lift and not max out your driveshaft length, this is going to be an excellent option. So that's my review of the Rough Country extended rear driveshaft, fitting all 2007 and up JKs, that you can find right here at extremeterrain.com.
Freight Notes. Freight items can only be shipped within the continental 48 states, no expedited methods.
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 Details
Installation Time: (approx) 1 Hour
Difficulty Level:Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
- will this shaft work with the RC 3.5" series ii lift kit - and is there any other necessary components to improve the longevity of this shaft (like swapping plates for adjustable control arms)?.
Yes, the Rough Country Extended Rear Driveshaft will work with 2007-11 Jeep Wranglers, both in a 2 door and 4 door option, with over 3" of lift up to 6". It will come with everything needed for install. We do suggest adjustable rear lower control arms to adjust your pinion angle if you do not already have them with your 3.5" kit.
If i am lifted over 6 will this work? I believe im close to 7-8. Thank you
The Rough Country Extended Rear Driveshaft will work with Jeeps lifted 3+ Inches. If you are running 7"-8" of suspension lift you should have no issues with this.
Does the axle need to be canted upwards or can it remain flat like the weak propshaft joints?
Thank you for your question! This drive shaft will be at an angle when bolted in, and the U-Joint will allow it to do so.
what boot kit needed for this model? thanks!
The Rough Country Extended Rear Driveshaft will not utilize a boot.
I bought one. My question is, does this upgrade need SYE or is it a direct fit install?
Hi! The Rough Country Extended Rear Driveshaft will include everything you will need to install this item. It is a direct fit install.
Hello, a standard grease gun will fit the Zerk fitting on the U-Joint.
Hello, This is deigned for a jeep with a 3 inch or larger lift kit.
Hello, This driveshaft is designed for a jeep with a 3-6 inch lift.
May 16, 2018
08 jkur long arm set up
Drive shaft was a perfect fit wish it can with a new pinion and trans nut. On my way back from a Moab trip no issues wheeled it hard for 5 days
Bang for your Buck 5
November 23, 2017
Not Too Bad
IF you use a gear puller you should not need to replace any seals...I did not. Alright so with a jeep wrangler 2008 2 door you need a gear puller... you can rent for free at a local auto parts store... you will use that to pull off your stock yoke. The instructions do not give you very clear details. For greasing the drive shaft you need a normal everyday grease gun fitting and a rubber pointed needle fitting attachment for your grease gun...its like 5 bucks. The instructions do not give you correct size for your pinion nut size so yeah check that before...pick up grease of course and lock tight...liquid wrench as well for any hard to get off nuts or bolts.
Bang for your Buck 5
August 23, 2017
Worst Purchase Experience Ever
I purchased this driveshaft for my wrangler with a 3.5 in lift because the product description indicated that it would work well. The driveshaft was too long, and only allowed for 1/4 in of space remaining. I've tried contacting Extreme Terrain to return the product and get a new one, but the hassle of returns is not worth my time. I would need to remove the parts already installed and return before even considering to send a new one. Or I could purchase another one and they would send it and I could then put that on and return the old one. The whole experience has been messy, unprofessional and a complete disappointment. I expect more from an organization like this, but unfortunately I was wrong. I will not be purchasing from Extreme Terrain ever again.
Bang for your Buck 1
July 18, 2017
Better than expected!!
Good driveshaft for money and shipped quick! Is definitely a lot sturdier than the stock driveshaft!
Bang for your Buck 4
April 11, 2017
So far... really good
Got my rear drive shaft 3 to 4 days (same time with my front drive shaft)... easy to install, took me about 30 min or so, loving it so far haven't had any trouble and my baby is doing just fine. Looking forward in buying more parts From Extreme Terrain.
Bang for your Buck 5
February 18, 2017
i was happy with the product but then i realized i was missing the U bolts, new seals, and center nuts. i contacted customer service to let them know, i haven't got a reply ever since. had to drive around to look for the U bolts to fit it in hardware stores and new seals.
Bang for your Buck 4
July 30, 2016
Easy install no vibrating looks nice if you lift your jeep this part helps a lot mike f. Wyo
Bang for your Buck 5
March 18, 2016
Rough country driveshaft
This was a great experience and was easy to install. I had no issues.
Bang for your Buck 4
February 18, 2016
it fit great!
I found this driveshaft fit very well and would buy again and recommend it to others. though the instructions were wrong on the size of the sockets that needed to be used to remove the nuts on the yokes. it said that it was a 1 1/8 on the transfer side and it ended up being a 1 1/4 and it said I needed a 1 1/4 for the yoke on the rearend and it was bigger than that. I used a 1 5/16 though it was a little loose. maybe a metric??
Bang for your Buck 3