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MotoFab 3-Inch Front / 3-Inch Rear Full Lift Kit with Shock Extenders (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)

Item J133315
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hi, guys. So today we're checking out the MotoFab 3-Inch Front, 3-Inch Rear Full Lift Kit with the Shock Extenders fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. So a very easy and affordable way to add some extra height to your Wrangler is to go with a spacer lift. And this option by MotoFab is gonna do just that. Now, this is gonna come with 3-inch spacers for the front and the rear, giving you 3 inches of lift on your JK, which is going to increase your ground clearance and articulation while you're off-road. It's gonna open up the room inside your wheel wells for larger wheels and tires if you're looking to do that, and it's also just gonna create a more defined and more aggressive stance out of your JK.Now, this kit is specifically for the JK owner who is looking to keep it on the budget, they're looking for a very bare-bones kit and don't wanna go full out with a full lift kit. Now, this is going to include those 3-inch spacers for your coil springs. And what I also particularly like to see out of a lift kit like this especially a 3-inch spacer lift is accommodation for that lift. So you are getting shock extenders for this to make sure that you are utilizing the travel of your shock correctly. You're not damaging it over the long run by fully extending it. And this is also gonna come with brake line brackets, which I do like to see as well to make sure that your brake lines are in good condition.Now as far as tire size is concerned, this kit is going to fit up to a 35-inch tire. So if you are particularly looking to keep it on a budget but also looking to mount up a 35-inch, this kit is going to be a good choice. Now, as for 33-inch tires, they may look a little small inside the wheel well area. You definitely are gonna have a little bit more room to work with when you are off-road as far as articulation and up travel is concerned. However, they may look a little bit small paired with a 3-inch lift. Now, as for 37s, I would not necessarily recommend it. You may be able to mount them up, they may look pretty good mounted up inside the wheel well considering that they're gonna fill it out really well, but you're not gonna have a lot of room. You are gonna have rubbing, and you may have contact with your fender if you are looking to do some articulation off-road. So, overall, I would recommend a 35. It's gonna look the best, but you can mount up a 33 as well.Now, as far as pricing is concerned, like I mentioned before, this is going to be incredibly affordable, especially for a 3-inch lift kit, which I would like to call out. This is gonna come in at roughly $150. Now, the reason why this is so inexpensive is because it's a pretty bare-bones kit, and it is a spacer lift. Usually, spacer lifts are a little bit less expensive because they don't necessarily have a lot of components that are going to up that price point. Now, in comparison to other spacer lifts, this is going to be one of the bigger options out of all of the spacer lift or leveling kit choices considering that this is 3 inches. A lot of other options are 2 inches, 2.5 inches. They may even go down to 1-inch and 1.5-inch spacers.Now, on the other hand, some more expensive choices for 3 inches of lift are usually gonna consist of full kits. So, they'll have shocks, they may have springs, and a lot of other components included in the kit that are going to just up that price point because of those extra components. Now, again, if you're looking to keep it on a budget, if you're looking to mount up a 35 inches or a 33 inches, you're specifically looking for a 3-inch lift kit, and you really want a no-fuss kit, you don't wanna go all out on a full lift kit, this is going to be the choice for you.Now, as far as install is concerned, I'm gonna give it a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Spacer lifts are a little bit easier than full lift kit. So, you're gonna need some pretty basic hand tools to get the job done and also probably three hours' worth of your time to do it. So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for this install were an electric and pneumatic impact wrench, a flathead screwdriver, a pry bar, a dead blow, 10-inch extension, a 19-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 13-millimeter, and 11-millimeter open-ended wrench, a ratchet, a 5-inch extension, a 16-millimeter and 18-millimeter swivel socket, and a socket set ranging from 21-millimeter to 10-millimeter.So the first couple of steps of this install include getting the Jeep up in the air, whether you're on a jack and jack stands or if you are on a lift like I am with a couple of pole jacks, you wanna make sure that you're supporting the axle because we will have to lower it down. You also wanna make sure that the front wheels and tires are off. And if you are on the jack and jack stands, I would recommend chocking at the rear wheels. But our first step is going to be to take off our sway bar end links or at least to just disconnect them from the axle. So we're gonna take off the bottom bolt for our sway bar end link. We don't necessarily have to take off the top, considering that we just need to disconnect this from the axle, so we can lower it down. So I wanna take an 18-millimeter swivel socket on the passenger side, and then I'm gonna take an 18-millimeter wrench, and we can take that off. Then we're gonna do the same thing on the other side.Next, we're gonna disconnect our front track bar using a 21-millimeter socket. It's gonna be a flag nut on the back. That is gonna shift the axle a little bit, but it's gonna allow us to drop our axle. Next, we're gonna remove our lower shock bolt using an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. Now, in order to get this out, you may have to adjust the height of the axle in order to loosen that bolt up. If it needs a little bit of help, you can just take a dead blow or a hammer and tap that out. The other thing that we wanna make sure to do while we're over on this side is disconnect our brake line bracket. We have one up at the top on the frame and one down on the spring perch. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket for both of those, but I'm also gonna use my impact wrench for this top one. You wanna make sure to save these. So what we're gonna do at this point is kind of just wiggle our shock out at the bottom there, and then just pull out our brake line bracket. This is just gonna give it enough slack so when we drop our axle we're not damaging this brake line because we definitely don't wanna do that. If this does get damaged in the process, you will need to replace them.So, once we are finished with the brake line and the shock over on this side, we're gonna do the same thing on the other side, and then we can start lowering our axle. At this point, what we're gonna do is start lowering down our axle, so we can take out our springs. So I'm just gonna lower my pole jacks here. And we just wanna make sure that it's even, keeping an eye on our brake lines, even though they are disconnected at the bracket. You also wanna keep an eye on the breather hose on the differential. I usually just like to pop that off. There's no clip or anything. It's just a tube that you can just pull back. And then we're gonna just lower this down. And you'll see the spring start to separate at the top. You can usually just do this one by one, but once you have enough room, you can wiggle the spring out on either side. Now, one spring might be a little bit more difficult than the other. So just keep that in mind. It's usually the driver's side. Or you can even kind of rotate the spring, move the sway bar if you need to, and even pull down the axle if you need to. So last but not least, once we have the springs out, we're just gonna take out this isolator as well, and we're gonna do the same thing on the other side.So now that our springs are out we need to make sure that our axle is gonna drop far enough for us to get that 3-inch spacer in as well as the spring. So what I'm gonna do is disconnect our driveshaft here. That's really what's holding us up from dropping our axle. So I'm gonna take a 15-millimeter socket as well as an extension to my impact wrench and take out the 4 bolts that are holding on our driveshaft to our diff. So right now the drive shaft's sitting on the exhaust. So we need to rotate it a little bit. Then we're gonna disconnect the driveshaft from the flange. I'm just gonna take a dead blow. There it goes. At this point, it's disconnected, and what we're gonna do is just continue to drop our axle down. What we're gonna do now is take our spacer as well as our factory isolator and put that around our spring perch. We're gonna do the same thing on the other side, and then we're gonna pop in our spring. Then we're gonna take our spring, and we can kind of line it up with our isolator where the pigtail sits, and we can pop it over our axle. If you have to drop it a little bit lower, definitely do so. We're gonna have to spin it to get the spring to sit in the bottom of the spring perch correctly in that little pigtail there. We're gonna do the same thing on the other side.Next, we're gonna take our shock extender. This is gonna be a bracket that moves the shock location from down here to up here to accommodate for that lift. I have a dead blow. I'm just gonna tap it into place. Now, there's gonna be a hole on the underside of this bracket. You're gonna have hardware for that. It's gonna be a bolt, two washers, and a nylon lock nut. Then we're gonna use a 13-millimeter wrench and socket and tighten that up. Then we're gonna take our provided sleeve and our provided bolt and put that through the factory mounting location. Secure it down on the other side with the provided nylon lock nut. We're gonna tighten that up with a 19-millimeter socket and wrench.Now, before we reconnect our shock, we do want to reconnect our brake line brackets just because we won't be able to fit this in with our shock bracket right here. So, you wanna raise the axle up enough to where you can fit this back into place. Then we're gonna take our factory hardware and secure that down. We're actually gonna be adding a bracket to the top brake line in order to drop that a little farther down, so we have some slack in our brake line. But right now we're gonna tighten that up with our 10-millimeter socket. Then we're gonna grab our bracket for our upper brake line bracket.So for the mount on our frame, I'm going to be using the factory bolt. We're gonna tighten that up using our 10-millimeter socket that we used to take it off. Then what we're gonna do...I'm just gonna get this sensor out of the way real quick because I don't wanna damage this. But you're gonna have to kind of straighten out this brake line in order for it to kind of sit there correctly. Then we're gonna take our supplied hardware, which is the bolt, two flat washers, and a nylon lock nut, and we're gonna secure that to our brake line bracket. And then using an 11-millimeter socket and an 11-millimeter wrench, we're gonna tighten that up.So what we're gonna do next is attach our shock bracket. Now, there's gonna be a mounting location here, a mounting location on the bottom, and a mounting location on the top. And the top is gonna be where our shock is gonna sit. This is the factory mounting location. So we're gonna put a shock and a sleeve...or a bolt and a sleeve in here, and then there's an extra bolt that we're going to bolt down at the bottom to make sure that the bracket stays in place. So you may need a dead blow or a hammer in order to get this set in place. And what we're gonna do is grab the bolt for the bottom. It's gonna be two flat washers, a bolt, and a nut. Then we're gonna send that through the bracket. Now, before we tighten this one up, I do want to make sure that this bolt is in. So we're gonna take our provided bolt, nylon lock nut, and the provided sleeve. You're gonna put the sleeve in the bracket. Put our bolt through. [inaudible 00:16:51] a little bit of help. And then we're gonna take our nylon lock nut and secure that down.We're gonna line up our factory shock, take our factory bolt, and put that through, and secure it down with the factory nut. So I'm gonna tighten up this bottom bolt first using a 13-millimeter wrench and socket. Then we're gonna tighten up the next bolt with a 19-millimeter wrench and socket. Then we're gonna do the same for the top bolt with an 18-millimeter wrench and socket. Now, after that is in place, we're gonna repeat the same thing on the other side. What we're gonna do next is re-secure our driveshaft down. Now, you do need to raise up the axle in order to do this mostly on the driver's side, but we're gonna take our factory bolts and thread those back into place. Then we're gonna take our 15-millimeter socket and our extension and tighten those up. Again, you're probably gonna have to turn the driveshaft in order to access two other bolts.So the last two things that we have to do upfront is reconnect our sway bar end links as well as our track bar. Now we need to do that while the Jeep is on the ground on its own weight. So we're gonna save that for the end, and we're gonna head to the back and start our install there. So now that we're wrapped up in the front, the last thing that we have to do up there is reconnect our front track bar. Now, we have to do that with the tires on and the Jeep on its own weight. So we'll save that for last. So now we're gonna get started in the rear. Now, our first step is gonna be to take off our bottom shock bolts. So I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and wrench to disconnect this bottom shock bolt. Now, I also have the axle supported just like in the front, but we're gonna go ahead and take that out. And this is gonna give us access to that lower sway bar bolt. You might need a small pry bar just to get it out of the mount here. Then we're gonna disconnect our sway bar bolt. Now we can take out the bottom sway bar bolt using an 18-millimeter socket and wrench.Next, we're gonna take out the bolt on our brake line bracket up on the frame here. I'm gonna use the same 10-millimeter socket that we used upfront. And again, this is just gonna make sure that our brake line is not damaged while we're lowering our axle. Then we're gonna just repeat that on the other side. Next, we're gonna disconnect our rear track bar using a 21-millimeter socket. So once the track bar is disconnected, we're gonna start to lower down our axle. So real quick I'm just gonna disconnect this breather hose. You just have to pull back on it. It's just gonna be a barbed pin there. And then what we're gonna do now is just lower down our axle. Once the axle is low enough, we can just pop out our spring, and the isolator is gonna come out with it.So in order to drop our axle low enough to pop in our spacer and our spring, we need to disconnect this bracket here. There's going to be two 10-millimeter nuts here that we need to remove in order to drop our emergency brake. So I'm gonna take a 10-millimeter socket, and we can just remove those. As you can see, that just dropped a bit. We'll keep that bracket in place because we will reconnect it. So what we're gonna do next is install our spacer. Now, this does have a retainer. There's gonna be a welded nut plate that we're gonna put up on top of the spring perch here. Then we're gonna take our spacer and our provided bolt. I'm gonna put that through. And I also have a 19-millimeter socket and an extension. So we're gonna thread that into place. Then what we're gonna do is take a 19-millimeter socket, and we're gonna tighten that up. Then we're gonna repeat that on the other side. Next, we're gonna take our springs as well as our factory isolators, put those around the spacers, and pop them into place on the axle. Then we're gonna start to raise up our axle, making sure that our springs are aligned with those spacers.So what we need to do next is install our shock extension brackets. Now, these ones are actually gonna go up at the top unlike the ones at the front that were at the bottom. So I'm gonna remove the two bolts that are holding in the top of our shock with a 16-millimeter swivel socket and an extension. Then we're gonna take our shock extension and our new hardware and thread that in. I'm gonna thread in one side. We'll hook in one side of our shock. And then we'll take our second bolt and thread that in. Now, what we're gonna do is take that same extension, but instead of a 16-millimeter swivel socket, we're gonna take an 18-millimeter swivel socket, and we're gonna tighten those up. Then we're gonna repeat that on the other side. While we're over here, we're gonna also do our brake line drop bracket. Just like the front, we're gonna reuse our factory bolt for the frame mount. Then we're gonna use our provided hardware, which is the bolt, two flat washers, and nylon lock nut for the bottom one. Tighten up the top one with a 10-millimeter socket. Then we're gonna tighten up the bottom one with an 11-millimeter socket and an 11-millimeter wrench. Then we're gonna do the same thing on the other side.Next, we're gonna reattach our sway bar end links using the factory hardware. I'm tightening that up with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. Then we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. Then we're gonna reattach our shocks. You might need a dead blow to get them back in place. Next, we're gonna reattach our shock using our factory hardware. Bolt might need a little bit of help going through. We're gonna tighten that up with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. I'm just using a flat head to kind of compress the shock and move it in the right direction, so we can get the bolt through. Then we're gonna tighten it up again, 18-millimeter wrench and socket. Then we're gonna reattach our parking brake with the factory hardware. I'm tightening that up with a 10-millimeter socket.So at this point, our last step is to reconnect our rear track bar, but we have to do that on the ground while the Jeep is on its own weight. We also need to do that for the front track bar and the sway bar end links. So now I'm gonna put the tires on, and we can wrap up this lift kit. Now that the Jeep's back on its own weight, we're gonna reconnect our track bars. For the rear, you're gonna want to have somebody wiggle the back end of the Jeep. They can just be on the passenger side and just push the Jeep back and forth. This is just going to allow the axle to line up. Then once that bolt is through, we're gonna take the flag nut and secure it to the other side and then tighten that up with a 21-millimeter socket.So our last step once the Jeep is on the ground is to reconnect our track bar. So, it may be helpful to have somebody in the driver's seat turning the steering wheel back and forth in order to line this up. Once you have the bolt in and the flag nut installed on the back, we're gonna tighten it up with a 21-millimeter socket. I also recommend an extension just to clear the drag link here. So that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this, and always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Heavy-Duty Suspension Lift
      • Provides 3 Inches of Front and Rear Lift
      • Improves Ground Clearance
      • Allows for Larger Off-Road Tires
      • CNC-Machined Steel Front and Rear Coil Spacers
      • Front and Rear Shock Extenders
      • Front and Rear Brake Line Brackets
      • Accommodates up to 35-Inch Tires
      • Bolt-On Installation
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Models

      Description

      Built for Toughness. Jeeps are awesome off-road beasts and this MotoFab 3-Inch Front/3-Inch Rear Full Lift Kit with Shock Extenders makes it even better. It provides sufficient lift for added ground clearance and larger tires. Additionally, this kit is tough as nails and can handle the extreme stresses of off-road use.

      CNC-Machined Coil Spacers. These coil spacers are made from high-grade steel and precision-machined to specifications. The solid construction makes these coil spacers strong and durable, without the inherent weakness of welded parts. Additionally, they come with a durable, powder-coat finish for lasting protection against rust and the elements.

      Heavy-Duty Shock Extenders and Brake Line Brackets. If you want to reuse your current shocks, the kit includes a set of front and rear shock extenders. Additionally, the kit also includes a set of brake line brackets. These components are made from high-grade steel for strength and toughness that you can rely on.

      All Bolt-On Installation. The MotoFab Full Lift Kit with Shock Extenders is all-bolt-on for ease of installation and uses high-grade steel installation hardware. And since it’s a bolt-on kit, returning to stock is possible if needed.

      Limited Lifetime Warranty. The MotoFab Full Lift Kit with Shock Extenders is warrantied against defects in materials or workmanship. Exclusions will apply.

      Application. This MotoFab 3-Inch Front/3-Inch Rear Full Lift Kit with Shock Extenders is specifically designed for use with 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK models.

      Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018

      MotoFab 07-18JK3F3R

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Coil Spacers
      • (2) Rear Coil Spacers
      • (2) Front Shock Extenders
      • (2) Rear Shock Extenders
      • (1) Set of Front and Rear Brake Line Brackets
      • Installation Hardware
      4.7

      Customer Reviews (34)

        Questions & Answers

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