(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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Merideth: Hey, guys. So today, we're checking out the K&N Series 77 High Flow Performance Cold Air Intake, fitting all 2012 to 2018 3.6-Liter JK Wranglers. So, if you're in search of some better performance for your 3.6-liter, a cold air intake is always a great solution, and this option by K&N will be a premium choice to take a look at. Now, this intake will do a great job of getting rid of that restriction that your factory airbox had, replacing it with a high flow setup that will help your engine breathe a lot better.Now by increasing that airflow, you'll also be getting some better horsepower and torque and even some better fuel efficiency. When it comes to the horsepower increase, K&N lists a 10 horsepower increase at 5600 RPM. So keep in mind that those horsepower increases will be at the higher RPM range where Jeep owners really don't spend a lot of time, but you definitely will feel a little bit in your throttle response, especially when you're getting on the gas, like when you're getting on the highway.And this won't just help with airflow, but it's also going to optimize your filtration. And this kit will come with a high-quality oiled filter that will trap all those contaminants before getting into the intake system. And it's also going to be cleanable and reusable for the lifetime of your Wrangler. This specific kit will also come with a heat shield application to prevent any hot engine bay air from getting to the filter.But I would keep in mind, if you do go off-road in a wetter climate, where you come into contact with a lot of mud or water often, I would just keep that in the back of your head that this is not going to be as protective as the factory airbox or an enclosed airbox option. So I would recommend this to somebody who's in a dryer climate, doesn't really get near any water or any mud often, and really wants something that's going to give them a lot of performance when it comes to that airflow.Now, while we're on the topic of the heat shield, it is going to be made of a steel construction. It's also gonna have a nice textured black powder coat finish on top to make sure that it's protected from the elements. So if you get any water on the heat shield, it's not going to rust or show any signs of corrosion. And I do like the fact that you also get a little stamp of the K&N right over on the side of that, that gives a little bit of a sporty touch or some branded styling underneath the hood.Now, speaking of underneath the hood, you're also going to get a large aluminum intake tube. This is gonna give you a very sporty look, especially with the polished finish, but as you can see, this is gonna be a straight-through style and it's going to be very large in comparison to the factory setup. That's going to get rid of a lot of restriction. The factory airbox or the factory intake tube does have a resonator on it. So getting rid of that is really where you're going to get a lot of this airflow here.Not to mention, it's going to come with everything that you need. All of these seals, all the fittings, the clamps, everything that you need when it comes to the hardware, and this is not going to require a tune, making it just that much more straightforward when it comes to install. Now, when it comes to the price, this will come in at roughly $500, putting this at a pretty average price point for a premium or high-quality intake system.Now, other options on the page may come in different configurations, as well as different style components that will change up the performance slightly. And it will kind of come down to your personal preference on what you prefer. Now, for example, some other choices may come with a dry filter instead of an oiled filter that this kit has. Some people prefer a dry filter that they feel they get a little bit more airflow with this. But when it comes to an oiled filter, some people feel like there's a little bit better filtration. The difference is very slight, but if you are a fan of an oiled filter, then this kit is gonna be right up your alley.Not to mention, there are other options that will not come with a heat shield, and they'll come with an airbox design for a little bit of extra protection in comparison to this. Then you're gonna see some other choices that will have a different style change. So instead of a polished aluminum intake tube, you'll see textured black, you'll see plastic options, or different colored options.Now, in my opinion, I think if you're looking for a premium choice when it comes to really high air flow for a cold air intake, you're not really worried about being too protected when it comes to the filter and you're really looking for a sporty look underneath the hood, then this is going to be a great choice. Now, like I mentioned before, the install will be pretty straightforward at a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter.Again, you're not gonna need a tune with this, making it very easy. You will need some basic hand tools and it's probably gonna take you about an hour to get the job done. Now, one of our installers here is gonna show you what that install looks like step by step. So that wraps it up for my review. Let's go ahead and get into the install.Man: For this installation, the tools you'll need include, a tape measure, a marker, a ratchet, a short and long extension, 8 and 10-millimeter sockets, a 4-millimeter hex socket, a 10-millimeter wrench, a pair of snips or dikes, and a trim removal tool.What's up, guys. Today, I'm gonna show you how to install a K&N cold air intake into your '12 to '18 Wrangler JK with the 3.6-liter. To get started with the uninstallation, we're gonna go underneath the hood here. We're gonna take off the engine cover, then remove the bolts from the air intake pipe, and also loosen the clamps. To do that, we're gonna need a 10-millimeter socket, an 18-millimeter socket, and an impact or a ratchet.The first step is to remove the engine cover so that we can get to our intake clamp. We're at our rear intake clamp right now, which is right here. So I'm gonna use my 8-millimeter socket with an extension and my impact in order to loosen that up. Next, we're gonna remove these two 10-millimeter bolts right here that hold the intake pipe on. So I'm gonna take my impact and 10-millimeter socket and get those free.All right. Before we remove our air intake box and pipe, there is an intake air temperature sensor right here. It's kind of hard to see on camera, but it's pretty close to the throttle body. And it just has a push-type connector. So you just have to push in the pin and pull it out. Okay. Now we have two 10-millimeter bolts that need to be removed. One is right here next to the fuse box, and the other is right over here, right below the radiator cap.So let me grab my 10-mil socket with the impact. Again, this one's a little hard to see on camera, but it is right underneath the radiator cap. And then a note about this bolt here is you wanna save it because we are gonna be reusing it later. All right. We're ready to remove our air intake box and pipe. First thing you wanna do, just make sure that you have the coolant hose removed from the brackets. And then you can pull up on the air intake box and hose and get it out of the engine bay.With our factory air intake out, we're gonna prep it so we can get the air intake temperature sensor out of it in order to put it into the K&N. I have a flat-head screwdriver and a 9-millimeter wrench in order to do that. So with my flat-head screwdriver, I'm gonna pry this little tab up very gently. Like I said, this is fragile. So once we have it lifted up above the lip, gonna twist it ever so slightly.Okay. Now that we have it turned a little bit, I'm just gonna use my 9-millimeter just so I'm not putting any clamping pressure on it. And it just turns just that little bit more. And then I can't overstate just to be very careful, just give it a little wiggle, pull it out. All right, guys, there's a little bit of pre-assembly we have to do on our K&N intake before we can put it into our car. As you can see, I have a bunch of pieces here, but not to worry. I'm gonna take you through it step by step.Okay. Here we have a mounting stud and a Z-bracket. So you wanna install these first. And we're gonna use the supplied M6 by 16 hex stud, and also a lock washer and a washer. So we're just gonna do these hand tight for now, but when it's time for full assembly, we're gonna use our 10-millimeter socket. Again, same on this one, M6 nut by 16, lock washer, and washer. Okay. Now, these are gonna go onto our heat shield bracket here. Now we're gonna take our mounting studs and brackets, mount them onto our heat shield, and make sure you have them in the right orientation. Like I have it here.And again, M6 by 16 bolt, with just a washer. Let me show you this real quick, with just a washer, no lock washer. And on the other side, the M6 nylon nut. So it's a locking nut. So again, make sure you have that in the right position, the right direction. Okay. And this one I'm just gonna put on a little bit for now and we'll tighten it down when we are finalized. All right. So those two brackets are mounted. Now we can move on to our adapter plate.All right. Now, moving over to our intake adapter, we're gonna place this on our heat shield. And when we spin it around, we can see that on the intake adapter, we have threads that we have to line up with these holes. And we're gonna take M6 button head bolts with a washer and lock washer to secure this in place. Just a couple of threads in for now.All right. Now that we have all of that together, we can tighten everything down. For the intake adapter bolts, we're gonna need a 4-millimeter hex head socket and a ratchet, of course. All right. And then for the first brackets we installed, we're gonna need a 10-millimeter wrench with a 10-millimeter socket. And I'm just actually gonna rotate this way so I can get to it.Now, again, for these, you don't wanna overtighten them at this point because we are gonna need to adjust them in order to fit everything into place. So I'm just gonna give them just a slight snug, but they are still able to be moved around. Okay, good. For this step, guys, we're gonna do some pre-assembly on the K&N intake before we put it in the car. I have a whole bunch of parts here, so I'm gonna break them down for you so you know what to grab out of the kit.For the pre-assembly, you'll need 2 of the nylon locking nuts, 8 of the flat washers, 7 of the locking washers, 4 of the M6 by 16-millimeter hex head bolts, 2 of the M6 by 12-millimeter hex head bolts, 2 of the M6 by 16-millimeter button head bolts, 1 of the M6 by 12-millimeter button head bolts, 2 of the plastic mounting studs, 2 of the Z-brackets for the heat shield, the long L-bracket for the heat shield, the rubber-mounted stud, the heat shield itself, the filter adapter.And the tools we'll need, a ratchet, I prefer an extension, and a 10-millimeter socket, a 4-millimeter hex head socket, and a 10-millimeter wrench. First, we're gonna need 2 of the M6 by 16-millimeter hex head bolts with a flat washer and locking washer on each of them and the 2 Z-brackets. Now, for the Z-brackets, I wanna mention there is a short side and a long side. And what we're gonna be doing is mounting the plastic studs onto the long side of the Z-bracket.And I'm just gonna hand-tighten these for now so that we can adjust as needed. And then these are being mounted onto our heat shield. And to mount onto the heat shield, we're gonna grab 2 more of the M6 by 16-millimeter hex head bolts with a washer on each of those. And then two more washers for the other side of the heat shield and the two nylon locking nuts.All right. So bolt goes through, put another flat washer on, and then the nylon nut. Same for this one. And then let's just tighten that down a little bit using our 10-mill wrench and 10-mill socket. And we don't wanna go super tight. We just wanna snug it down a little bit so that we can adjust these brackets as needed. All right. Now let's move on to the L-bracket. And we're gonna mount the rubber-mounted stud onto the L-bracket in this orientation using one of our M6 12-millimeter hex head bolts with a lock washer and a flat washer.So, as you can see, there's a threaded hole in the rubber-mounted stud. So our bolt threads into it. And we're just gonna keep that hand-tight for now, but it needs to be installed in this orientation. All right. Let's move on over to our filter adapter. We're gonna mount it into our heat shield as such. And as you can see, there's holes in the back of the heat shield. So you have to line up the threaded holes in the adapter with the holes in the heat shield.Then we're gonna take 2 of our M6 by 16-millimeter button head bolts. We're gonna take two of these, each of them with a flat washer and a locking washer. Thread them into our adapter. And we're gonna take our 4-millimeter hex socket and we can go ahead and tighten these down all the way because we should not have to adjust this adapter.Okay. Now, as you can see, this other hole here in the heat shield, that's where we're gonna mount our L-bracket. So we're gonna put the stud through the hole, I'll turn it around here for you. We're gonna take another flat washer and the hex head nylon locking nut to secure that L-bracket. And with our 10-millimeter socket, we're gonna tighten that down. And I'm actually gonna use my ratchet to tighten that down a little bit better. Okay. Give it a little snug, should be good to go. And we can still adjust it as needed.The next phase of this pre-assembly, we have some more of the supplied hardware, including the special Z-bracket and rubber-mounted stud, the heat shield lid, the part of the heat shield that we have already pre-assembled, and edge trim. I'm gonna walk you through how to install all of these step-by-step. For the Z-bracket, we're gonna take one of our M6 by 12-millimeter hex bolts with a locking washer and flat washer and our rubber-mounted stud. And we are just going to put those together same fashion as the last rubber-mounted stud that we did.So, as you can see, it's threaded, put our bolt through the bracket, and hand-tighten that. Again, we're gonna have to do some adjusting, so no need to tighten it all the way down. It's gonna look like that. Next, we're gonna take our heat shield lid and mount our bracket to it. So this hole right here on the heat shield is where our bracket's gonna go. And if you take a look on the bracket here, there is a welded bolt, if you will, threaded nipple. So we're gonna put that with the nipple side down on our heat shield. And then we're gonna take our M6 by 12-millimeter button head bolt with a locking washer and washer to secure the bracket onto the heat shield.Again, I'm just gonna use my 4-millimeter hex socket just to snug that down just a little bit. And we still have room for adjustment. All right. For our edge trim, we're gonna need a measuring tape and a marker. And what we're gonna do is measure a 6-inch piece and a 7-inch piece and cut, and that's gonna go onto the heat shield itself. The remaining trim is gonna go onto the heat shield lid.Okay. So like I said, we're gonna do 6 inches first, which is right about there and we're gonna mark it because we only get one shot at this. Then from there, we're gonna go to 7 inches, which is right about there. Mark it. And now we can cut. All right. With our edge trim measured twice, we're now gonna make our cuts. And I'm using a pair of dikes. Because there is a metal V-band in here, so you are gonna need something with a little bit of leverage power. I don't think a pair of scissors will work, so shears or dikes. And I'm gonna cut the squishy part first.So I do have to do this in two cuts and then I'm gonna cut the metal V-band. One piece, and then the same for the 7-inch piece here. Quite go all the way through. All right. Now for the metal part. So for the two short pieces of our edge trim that we cut, we're going to install these on the first piece of the heat shield that we assembled. And the short 6-inch piece of the trim is going to go on this side here. And it's easier to work one edge in at a time as opposed to trying to put the whole thing on it once.Then our 7-inch piece is going on this side. And be careful for sharp edges like these. Make sure you get those in the trash. Now for the remaining piece of the edge trim, it's gonna go on our heat shield lid, and we're gonna work it the whole way around this rounded edge here. Okay. And then down the flat side here as well. Now you might want to take it off and adjust it as you see fit, I'm gonna continue with the pre-assembly and then decide where I wanna move this later.Now we're in the front of the car where our filter's gonna be located by the fuse box. And we have our heat shield with the filter adapter. And we're gonna be mounting in this location right here. So these brackets that we put on earlier, we wanna make sure that they're positioned downwards like this, both of them. And what we're gonna do is we're gonna mount these studs into the mounting holes, and we're gonna have to make some adjustments. So let me show you how to do that.Okay. So we have our heat shield with the filter adapter and we're locating it in the position where it's gonna be mounted. One thing to note is it's much easier to have this L-bracket pointed down when you're putting it into location. And the plastic studs that we mounted, we're locating them into the rubber grommets. So, what we wanna do here, is push it into place, and make sure that the heat shield is square, and that our bracket lines up with the radiator support nut that's here right behind the radiator cap.And basically, what we're doing is we're just locating all the bolts and the studs that we mounted because they are adjustable. So we're locating them by squaring everything up. Once that's done, lift it up, and turn it around. And we can tighten these down now. Okay. So I'm gonna tighten these down with my 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench. If you don't have one of these, you can use a regular box and wrench.And the reason we didn't tighten these down before, the reason we kept them loose is because the brackets are slotted to make these adjustable so that you can keep everything square. So basically, what we did when we pre-mounted it just now was locate these in the proper position. So now that we did that, we know that they're correctly positioned and tightened down. All right. Now that our plastic studs are in position and tightened down, we can rotate this and put it back in place.Again, make sure this L-bracket is facing down when you initially put it into place, make sure everything's lined up, and then just give it a push to get those plastic studs into the rubber mounts. Double-check to make sure everything's square. Make sure your bracket hole lines up with the radiator support hole. And we need a 10-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter wrench in order to tighten these down properly. It's a little tightened in here, so you might have to finesse your way around. There we go.Okay. Now we're at the L-bracket, which gets fastened to the radiator support here, and we're gonna use the bolt that we removed prior. So this is the factory bolt. So make sure that our bracket holes's lined up. And also make sure that the rubber grommet that we're going through lines up with the radiator support nut. Then we're gonna use our 10-millimeter socket to tighten it the rest of the way down.You might need a longer extension because this is kind of tucked in there and there are a lot of threads. Okay. That one's good. And now that we have that fastened down, we can tighten down the bracket on the shield as well. We can tighten down the bracket on the shield as well using a 10-millimeter wrench and our 10-millimeter socket. All right. Next, we're gonna put our filter in place with the supplied clamp. And to tighten it down, we're using an 8-millimeter socket or you can also use a flat-head.And this, you do not have to overtighten. You just wanna make sure that it's snug. So I'm gonna give it one little snug with my ratchet. Good. Now we can put the heat shield lid in place. A note here is this rubber stud has to come off. So just be careful removing the hardware. You don't wanna lose anything. And the reason it has to come off is because we have to actually install it here first and just by hand. Hand-tight is good. Give it a snug. And now we can locate the heat shield lid bracket to that mounting point.And the reason we're locating that is because these back holes also have to line up. So, before you go ahead and tighten that down, we can put the hardware in now actually. So let's do that. It's a little tricky, so just take it slow. A couple of threads in, good. So like I was saying, the reason we wanna do that is so that we can line up these back holes of the shield or of the lid with the heat shield. So everything has to be able to move a little bit.So once we locate a hole, let's get one of the bolts in and we're using 3 of the M6 button head by M6 by 16-millimeter button heads with washer and lock washer on each. And if your edge trim is in the way, just pull that to the side a little bit so you can get the bolt through. Locate your mounting hole. And with your 4-millimeter hex socket, hand-tighten that. Just needs a few threads. My edge trim is still in the way a little bit so I'm gonna move that even more. And you can actually pull it off and cut it if need be. For purposes of this demonstration, I'm gonna leave it as it is.So we got our second M6 button head and our third. I'm gonna go ahead and get my socket on here. All right. Now that our heat shield lid is in place, go ahead and tighten this bracket down using our 10-millimeter socket. Good. And snug all the bolts on top, down as well. Next, we're gonna put our hump hose with the supplied clamp onto our filter box. And then also, we're gonna take the silicone hose, put that on our throttle body with a supplied clamp.Now we're gonna snug them down using our 8-millimeter socket in preparation for the intake pipe. Now we're gonna prep our K&N intake pipe along with a couple of brackets here. We're gonna take our head tie wraps with the barbed fitting on the other end and slide them into our brackets in this fashion. And there's two. We'll be mounting those later. Next, we're gonna take our 90-degree, 1/2-inch NPT vent fitting and thread it into the K&N intake pipe.I do have to note, anytime you're threading plastic into metal you have to be very careful. You don't wanna overtighten it. So you want to hand-tighten it and then position it in this general location. Like that. Once that's done, take our vent tube and place that like so. Lastly, we wanna take our inlet air temperature sensor that we took out of our factory intake pipe. We wanna locate the tab on the sensor. And we're going to line it up with this little notch in the K&N intake pipe. So we line those up and you have to give it a firm push in order to seat it.But again, you wanna be careful. Once it's seated, rotate it clockwise a little less than a 1/4 turn. All right. We're almost ready to drop our intake pipe into the vehicle. We have to put two of our brackets into place first, and then we can wrap this up with a couple of clamps. All right. Now we're gonna locate our L-brackets with our zip ties onto our fan shroud right here. And we're gonna secure them using our M6 by 12-millimeter button head bolts, each with a washer and lock washer. And make sure they're oriented in this position so that the zip ties are on the lower end of the bracket.And then with our 4-millimeter hex socket, tighten them down the rest of the way. Now take the coolant return hose, place it on top of the zip ties, use the zip ties to secure it in place, and then trim off the ends. And it's good to go. All right. We're almost ready to place our intake pipe into our engine bay. First thing we wanna do here is fit our clamps onto the silicone hoses. And we just wanna position the intake pipe where it's gonna be because we have to connect the intake air temperature sensor connector.Now we're gonna put the intake pipe into the silicone hoses. Now the other end of the pipe into the other silicone hose. And if you can get the bottom seated like so, some of the silicone hose might fall in. So you wanna grab a trim removal tool and work it the rest of the way around. And then also, if the clamp is too tight, that might be hindering you. So you might have to loosen that too. I got it just about worked around here. Okay.Let's push that into place. All right. Now we're gonna take the vent return hose and plug that into the factory pipe. Now also, there is a factory rubber hose here. So if that's left behind, make sure you take that off first. Ours is already removed, so we can plug the K&N hose directly in. Last but not least, we have to tighten down the clamps using our 8-millimeter socket. It's a good idea to check all the clamps to make sure everything's tight. You don't wanna overtighten, but it should feel snug to your hand. Lastly, we can put our engine cover back on and we're ready to go.That's gonna wrap up this review and install of the K&N Series 77 High Flow Performance Cold Air Intake for the '12 to '18 Wrangler JK 3.6-Liter V6. Thanks for watching, and for all things Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Tuning Requirements||No Tune Required|
|Intake Tube Material||Aluminum|
|Intake Filter Type||Oiled|
Technical Note. The K&N Cold Air Intake is not designed for vehicles equipped with a Body Lift.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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