(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
Open Box from $126.00
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Hey, guys. So, today, I'm here with the Barricade Tubular Fender Flares fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. So, these are gonna be for the JK owner who's looking to change the whole aesthetic of their Wrangler while also adding some extra protection to all four corners. So, these are gonna offer form and function for the Jeep owner who needs that extra protection. Like I just said, while they're on the trail, if they take a hit, they're not gonna bust up their plastic flair, they're not gonna cause any extra damage because this is gonna be able to take the feet. This is also just going to completely transform the whole aesthetic of your Wrangler, just giving it a more aggressive look and an updated look overall, not to mention you are getting a ton of room in that wheel well for better up travel and larger wheels and tires. Now, you are keeping some pretty good width as far as these fender flares go for tire coverage. Now, they're not gonna cover the entirety of the tire if you upgrade to larger tires. So, I would keep that in mind when you are shopping around, if that is a major concern. However, these are still gonna provide that form and function that you may be looking for.So, these are available on the site in a couple of different options. So, you can have just the front, just the rear, or all four in a set. And they're roughly going to cost you about $250, if you were to purchase them separately and about $500 if you were to purchase them as all four in a kit. And I do think that is a pretty affordable price for what these offer you. So, what I do really like about these is that they keep this pretty simplistic, while still offering you that structural integrity and all of the function that you would want out of a tube fender flare.Now, you do get a couple of choices as far as fender flares on the page go. We have plastic options, or some impact-resistant plastic options, and then you get tube or steel options like this. So, I personally like these as a good middle ground. They still are going to offer this tubed edge out on the side, which is going to add that structural integrity that I was talking about. They're not going to be just a steel flat flare and they are going to hold up a lot better than those plastic flares down the road, if you were to take a hit on the trail. So, in comparison to some other more expensive choices on the page, those will usually include the marker light on the side. They may include daytime running lights or any additional lighting or they're just gonna be for a larger panel. So, it's gonna take up your quarter panel as well as offer you a flare. Now, I personally like these because they are that simplistic style. They get the job done, and they look good while doing it.So, our install is gonna be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you roughly two hours with some minor drilling and some basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I'll use for my install are a drill, an impact wrench, a marker, a center punch, two trim removal tools, a pair of pliers, a knife, a rivnut tool, WD-40 or any lubricant for our drill bit, 13-millimeter wrench, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a 5/16-inch, 1/4-inch, and 11/64-inch drill bit, a 13-millimeter and a 10-millimeter deep socket and a 5-millimeter Allen socket.So, the first step of our install is to remove a couple of bolts that are holding in the bottom part of our inner fender liner as well as our fenders. So, you're gonna need a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet or an impact wrench to get started. So, we have five in total that are exposed how the Jeep sits out of the factory. So, I'm gonna use that 10-millimeter socket and remove the front one. And we're gonna head on back. There's gonna be one immediately behind the first one. Then there's gonna be one at the top of the fender here. So, we can keep heading on back. Now, like I said, there are five exposed. There's an extra one and it's gonna be located through this hole in the inner fender liner. It's gonna be that same 10-millimeter socket. And then we're gonna have our last one down at the back here that'll be exposed.So, what we can do at this point is disconnect our marker light wiring harness just to make sure that we're not hurting the harness. So, if you follow this harness from the fender all the way back, there is gonna be a main plug. It is gonna be a little bit difficult to see. So, if you just depress that clip, you can pull that out and then that is disconnected. So, now we can remove our fender. So, now we can go ahead and disconnect our fender flare from our actual quarter fender here. So, I would recommend a plastic trim removal tool in order to do this, just so you don't damage your paint. And then we can start to pull away the fender and wedge our trim removal tool in and release those clips. All right. And once they start releasing, you can just move on back. So, if these break, it doesn't matter. We're not reusing them. They usually are meant to break. So, it doesn't sound the greatest, but those clips are not really meant to keep. So, we can move this out of the way and just remove the rest of the clips that are being held in.So, after we've totally removed the front, we can head to the rear. Now, for this, all you're gonna need is a trim removal tool. I'm gonna use a metal one to get out the clips that are holding in our inner fender liner and our fender flare. But I would recommend, again, a plastic one to actually separate the fender flare from the quarter panel. So, what I'm gonna do now is go ahead and remove the five clips that are holding in our inner fender liner. So, there's our first one. Then there will be two at the top side of the fender. I'm on the rearmost one right now. So, just like the front, we can take our plastic trim removal tool and pop off our fender flare.So, before we go ahead and install our new flares, I did wanna tell you guys a little bit about these, especially in comparison to your factory fender flares. Now, to start off, these are gonna be a lot more durable. They're made of a carbon steel plating as well as carbon steel tubing on the outside. So these are gonna be able to take a hit a lot better out on the trail than your factory plastics, which can bend, break and even come off if you do take hard enough of a hit. These are also gonna have an epoxy coating, and a textured black powder coat finish on top, which is gonna protect that steel underneath from any rusting. What it's also gonna do is give you a way better aesthetic, a more aggressive aesthetic, than your factory plastics, which do tend to fade in the sun. As you can tell, ours has a little bit of fading, and this is gonna do a great job at creating a more aggressive look on our Wrangler and more of an updated feel to our Wrangler.So, not to mention, these are gonna be a flatter style flair in comparison to your factory fender flare, which does have an edge on the outside of your fender flare. So, these are going to allow a lot more room inside the wheel well for better up travel while you're off-road, giving you some more room to work with so you can fit larger wheels and tires inside of your wheel wells. Now, the only thing that you are losing with these is first off, your marker lights. So you aren't able to transfer your marker light over from your factory flares onto your new one. However, that keeps it pretty simplistic. You don't have to do any extra wiring. But if you are looking to keep a marker light or add any additional lighting to this, you can either DIY something up or we do offer options on our page as well if you were looking to keep that light. Now, the other thing that you are losing is a little bit of width. So, you're not getting as much width as far as tire coverage goes with these new fender flares. But what you are getting is all of those key benefits that your factory fender flares are unable to give you. So, enough about these two side-by-side, let's go bolt up our new one.So, before we head over to the Jeep, we do have to install some foam on the inner lining where we're gonna bolt this up to our body. That's just going to protect our paint on our Wrangler from any scuffing or any body damage. So, you are provided with some foam in your package, and then we can go ahead and peel this back and start to align our fender flare. Right. So, we're gonna start at the top here and then we're gonna start to line this. Now, we are going to cover up these holes. That's okay. I'm gonna take a center punch, in just a minute, that we're gonna use a little bit later. And we're going to just remake these holes and poke those through the foam. Just pull back that backing as we pull down. Then, once you reach the end, we're gonna go ahead and cut that off. You can take a knife or scissors. Separate that foam. Then what we're gonna do is just cover it up. We just wanna make sure that there's no metal hitting the body of our Jeep.So, what we're gonna do at this point is go through and poke holes through our foam to make sure that they're lining up with the holes in our fender. So, if you feel on the backside of the fender, you can just poke through. I'm just using a center punch. You could really use anything. You could use a knife. We just wanna make sure that this is cleared out. So, I'm just going to poke my center through, punch through, the next one up here. What I'm gonna go back and do is just take my drill and just make sure that that excess on the side is taken off, so we can thread in our bolt.So, I'm using a 5/16-inch drill bit. This is what we're gonna use when we have to drill on our Wrangler. And I'm just gonna take off the excess foam. Now, this isn't doing any damage to our fender flare. We are just keeping it pretty light. We just wanna take off that extra foam around the sides. Right. And that cleaned it up for us. So, now we can head over to our Jeep. So, what we're gonna do at this point is mock up where our fender has to sit. We're gonna put two bolts in just to secure it in place. We're not gonna tighten anything down. We do have to drill two holes, but we wanna make sure that it's in place so we can correctly mark where we have to drill those two holes. So, what I'm gonna do is just take our fender and line that up where it needs to be. There is gonna be that indent. That can sit in place. Now, I'm just gonna take one of our bolts that are provided, bolt that in the front. Now, I'm not gonna put on a nut just yet. We're gonna come to the back and line up our second bolt. Now, I'm just going to secure a knot on the back of this one, just to make sure that it doesn't fall forward on me, and then same for the other one.So, these are very easily accessible. That's why I picked these two. They're also on the opposite sides, so when we lift this up into place, we won't have any crazy movement going on. So, what we're gonna do is just lift this up to where we want it to sit, and make sure that the other holes are lined up. Now, we want it to sit about there. Then we can take our marker. Then I'm just gonna make sure that this is held up in place, if you have to, have someone else help you hold it up, and that this is lining up on the back end as well. So, once you have it lined up, we can go ahead and mark for where we're gonna drill. So, once we've made a mark for where we wanna drill, then we can pull our fender flare back off, so we can go ahead and drill those out. So, I'm just going take off the two bolts that are holding this on and put those to the side.So, what I'm gonna do next is just make a center punch in each of those marks, just to make sure that our drill stays in place. Then we can take a 1/4-inch drill bit and drill a pilot hole. So, making sure that that's straight, we can drill our pilot holes through to the other side. We're gonna do the same thing for the top hole. So, I did step up my drill bit size, just to make sure that we had enough length to reach the other side. So, now we can step up to the actual size, which is gonna be a 5/16-inch drill bit that you're gonna need. I'm just gonna use a little bit of WD-40 so my drill bit stays pretty fresh while we do this. All right. Now, do the other one. So, after we have our holes drilled, what we can do is bolt our fender flare up into place. Now, we're just going line it up like we just did. Now, we can rest it on this little arm here while we grab our hardware. So, we are gonna be using the shorter hardware for all of the main holes. And then, down for the two holes that we just drilled, we are gonna be using our longer provided bolts.So, we're gonna start up at the top here. So, I'm gonna start with the first hole up at the front, then attach our flat washer and our nylon lock nut on the back. Now, we're not gonna take anything down just yet. We do wanna make sure that we have all of the bolts through and lined up. So, for these bottom two, we're gonna take our longer bolt and our longer spacer here. We're gonna put the spacer inside of here to keep the structural integrity of our quarter panel. If you have to pull out a little bit to get it lined up, that's okay. Then we're gonna take our longer bolt, our flat washer, and our nylon lock nut and we can go ahead and bolt that through. So, this is why we wanna make sure that we are drilling straight. Then we're gonna attach our flat washer and nylon lock nut on the other side. Then we're gonna move down to the bottom spacer. This is gonna be our shorter spacer. We're gonna do the same thing. We're gonna line that up. Grab our medium size bolt. This is gonna be the shortest out of the two longer bolts. We're gonna line up that spacer. Go ahead and bolt that through. Same flat washer and nylon lock nut on the back.All right. So, now we can go ahead and tighten all of these down. So, what we're gonna do is, kind of, hold the fender flare up where we want it and start to tighten everything down. I'm gonna be using a 5-millimeter Allen key as well as a 13-millimeter wrench to tighten these two button head bolts down. We're gonna do the same for our top bolt. Now, for the rest of the hardware, all we need is that 13-millimeter wrench that we used for these bottom two bolts and a 13-millimeter socket and we can go back and tighten those all up.So, now, we can do the same thing with our rear fender that we did with the front. So, we have to start off with our foam. So, this is just gonna be the same exact process. Now, this rear fender is going to involve a little bit more foam because we don't want all of this area to fit our paint either. But the good thing about this is that we do have a little bit of leftover foam from our front fender flare that we are able to use. Then we can use the extra from our front and just line this inner portion as well, and then cut off our excess. All right. So, now we can poke our holes where our hardware needs to go, so we can line that up. Stick your center punch or whatever you're using to punch these holes through. And then I'm just going to take my drill bit and just widen those up. Make sure all of that foam is out of the way. All right, so now that they're widened back up, we can go ahead and attach this to our Wrangler.Now, what we can do at this point is install our rivnuts that are gonna be able to hold up our fender flare. Now, Barricade does provide you with a tool in order to install the rivnuts inside your quarter panel. However, I would recommend that you go to a parts store, a hardware store, and rent a rivnut tool. This is gonna make your life a whole lot easier. However, if you are unable to get one of these or rent one of these, you do have a tool in the kit that is provided. So, what I'm gonna do is just open this up, thread on our rivnut, and we're gonna go ahead and install these. Now, we're going leave these bottom two holes alone and we're going to jump up to the next one. We're gonna push the rivnut into place, clamp down. That's gonna widen it up to make sure that it stays in there, and we're going to unthread it.So, now, we're gonna line our fender up into place while also grabbing our provided hardware. So, it's gonna be the bolts that were provided with your rear fender, the lock washer, and the flat washer. So, we're gonna hold this up and then thread in our hardware. So, once that first one is threaded in, the rest should line up pretty good. You do have to move it around. We can adjust it in order to get those threaded in. So, if you're having a problem threading them in, if you want to tighten them up with a 10-millimeter socket, the ones that you already threaded, it's gonna pull the fender in so your bolt is closer to that rivnut.So, I'm just going to tighten up our top one just a little bit with a 10-millimeter socket, then we can see if we can thread this one in. So, again, if you have to tighten up the bolts to pull the fender in, you can just take that 10-millimeter socket and just tighten it up a little bit. You wanna make sure that the rest of the holes are lining up, but that's gonna pull it in closer to the rivnut. These bolts are pretty short. However, if you get it close enough, it will thread into place. So, I'm going tighten up this middle one, I did catch a thread. And that's going to pull this in a little bit tighter so we can get in our top bolt. So, once we have all of our hardware in, then we can take our 10-millimeter socket and tighten everything up. Now, you wanna make sure that you don't overtighten these. The rivnuts will spin if you do, and you definitely don't want that to happen. We're gonna make sure that they just have a good hand-tight.So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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