(approx) 2 Hours
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey guys, today I'm here with the Barricade Trail Force HD Front Bumper, with the LED lighting and winch combo, fitting all 2018 JL Wranglers. This is gonna be a very affordable way to get two great starter mods that are going to work very well together to get your JL ready to tackle the trails. This is gonna be for the JL owner looking for a package with a heavy duty front bumper, for some solid front end protection, as well as a winch to get you out of any sticky situations that you may get yourself into on the trail. So when it comes to choosing front bumpers as well as winches, on the page there are a ton of different options to choose from. This one is going to offer a number of different benefits on the actual front bumper. You get full grille protection, you have extra LED lighting for some extra visibility, and two solid recovery points as well as a winch plate. Speaking of the winch plate, you also get a 9500 pound winch that's perfect for the armored two-door or the moderately armored four-door or lighter, considering this has a 9500-pound pulley capacity, and it has a synthetic line on it, which is gonna be a lot safer of an option compared to those steel cables that can store that energy under load and can be a little bit dangerous if they're not taken care of. So at the moment, this is gonna be roughly $900, which I personally think is a very reasonable price, considering that winches and bumpers individually can range anywhere from $250 all the way up to $1000. Now on the combo page, this is gonna be a little bit of a pricier option just because of the added LED lighting as well as the synthetic rope, which will bump that price up a little bit. So if you're looking to save a couple of bucks in the long run and get something a little bit more basic, like a steel cable and a front bumper without the LED lighting, we also have that as well. But if you're looking for a ton of functionality, then this package is definitely gonna be for you. Not to mention, to ensure the highest quality, Barricade carries a three year limited warranty for the bumper, and a lifetime limited warranty for the winch, so you do keep a little peace of mind there. Install is gonna be a very easy one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. You're going to need a couple of hand tools. You will have to do a little bit of basic wiring, however no cutting or splicing, everything is basically plug-and-play and attaching it to your battery. However I would recommend to fully read and understand the winch operating instructions that you do get in this package. I am obviously gonna show you how to install this winch, but I'm not gonna show you how it operates, so I would really recommend to make sure that you read that. So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used today for my install were an impact wrench, a trim removal tool, a 17-millimeter wrench, a 5/16-inch wrench, a pair of snips, a pair of needle nose pliers, a long Phillips head screwdriver, a short Phillips head screwdriver, a flat-head screwdriver, an extension, a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a 1/4-inch drive ratchet, an 18, 16, 14, 13, 12 and 8-millimeter deep socket, a T40 Torx bit, and a T30 Torx bit. So the first step in removing our bumper is to remove the pop clips that are holding the upper splash guard in place. I'm just using a flat-head screwdriver to do that. You can also use a trim removal tool. So you're gonna have two on top that go into the frame rail. You're also going to have six on the back here that it's gonna be holding it to the bumper. Now after all of those are out, we can remove our splash guard. So moving on to the bottom splash guard, we're first gonna remove the two bolts that are holding in it on either side with an 8-millimeter deep socket. Then we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. So now we have to remove the pop clips that are holding in the front of our bottom splash guard. I'm going to be using either a trim removal tool or a flat-head screwdriver, whichever is easiest. I know that they do differ along the way because of the spacing. So this one is easy to access with a trim removal tool. So now we're gonna remove the back panel on either side of the bumper. You're going to use a flat-head screwdriver to get the pop clips out that are holding it in. So with a 16-millimeter socket, we're next gonna remove our bottom skid plate here, just the two bolts on the outer sides. Just gonna slide up. So now you can use an 18-millimeter deep socket and a ratchet, or an impact wrench if you can squeeze it in here, to remove the nuts that are holding on our bumper studs. There's gonna be eight in total, four on each frame horn. So we are on the outer driver side right now, we are just gonna loosen those. So after all the bolts are out, the last thing that we need to do is unplug the main harness for our two fog lights. So we are just going to unclip that. So now we can remove our bumper. So before we mount up our new Barricade bumper, I just wanted to show you guys a couple of differences between your stock bumper and our new one. Right off the bat you can tell that this is fully made of steel, it's 5/32-inch plated steel with a 2-inch over-rider feature, as to where our stock bumper has a plastic cover on it and a steel frame, so this is going to provide you a lot more protection than your factory bumper would. It also does have a two-stage black powder coat textured finish on it, so it's going to assist in giving you that off-road look that you may be looking for and it's gonna protect the steel from any rust or corrosion. This also comes with a couple of different features that our stock bumper is unable to offer us, like the over-rider feature, it will give you some grille protection and offer two mounting tabs on the top to mount up any accessories or any extra lighting so you can customize your Wrangler, which your stock bumper will not really offer you. You also have a built-in winch plate capable of holding up to a 12,000 pound winch. Now obviously this kit does come with a 9500 pound winch, however the JL does not come with a winch, so I can't really do a little comparison for you, but I will tell you about that in just a minute. So this also does come with two welded D-ring mounts on the front, which are gonna be a lot more of a solid recovery point compared to your stock tow hooks that are attached to your stock bumper. You also have two D-rings included, which is also a bonus. So a big thing that you can notice on the front of this bumper is that you're getting four upgraded LED lights. So that is gonna increase your visibility compared to the stock halogen lights, or if you have the LED package like us, it's still gonna double those LED lights, increasing your visibility on the street and on the trail. They also have some riveted accenting around those assisting you in that off-road look. So now we're ready to bolt up our new bumper. So this bumper is gonna have a pretty tight fit. If you cannot fully push it on from just standing at the front like I just did, you can loosen up this bracket and actually take this secondary bracket off, get those studs through the actual frame horn, and then bolt this back up. This is a 16-millimeter bolt. You'll just need a socket and a ratchet to get that off. So now we're gonna actually attach our hardware, so I'm starting with a flat washer and then I'm going to attach our lock washer on both the top and the bottom stud. And then we can loosely attach our nuts. So this is still an 8-millimeter nut, so I'm just gonna tighten them down very loosely. Since they are new and the studs are painted, they're a little bit tougher to turn, however we still wanna keep them pretty loose. So now we can take the same flat washer, lock washer, and nut, and attach it here. And then you actually don't get a fourth stud, you do get a bolt. So we are going to attach that in just a moment to this top point. So you're gonna put on the lock washer first, so it presses up against this bolt, creates resistance, and then you can put on your flat washer and thread that into your bumper. Then we can take our 18-millimeter socket and just loosely tighten those down. Now with these last two, I'm just gonna tighten these all the way down and then tighten all the rest of the bolts and nuts down. So I always tighten everything down at the end and leave it loose while we thread everything on, just because if we tighten down the one side, it will pull the studs backwards on this side because of the resistance on the other side. So I always recommend just threading everything on and tightening everything down at the end. So we're just gonna go back and tighten everything down with this 18-millimeter deep socket and a ratchet. So quickly, I'm just gonna go back and tighten all of the rest down. So after the bumper is bolted on, now we can hook up our lights. What I really do like about this bumper is that it comes with a wiring harness, and it looks like a mess right now, but I will show you how to hook this up in just a second. So this is a lot easier than some other bumpers that you have to splice in and cut your own wires, you have to outsource for your own wire loom, and it can get messy, especially if you don't know how to wire or aren't the best at wiring. So this makes everything easy, you just have to plug it into your lights, run it to your battery, and it's all hooked up to a switch which is on here somewhere, but I'll show you how to do that in just a second. So first we're gonna pop our hood. So what my first step is gonna be is to take all of our connections that have to connect down to our lights and just pass it through this little hole here. So this is going to drop down and you'll be able to access these from behind the grille, and that's actually where we're gonna run our winch wire as well. And then they will be able to perfectly reach the back of our bumper. So we're just going to start by passing those through. So then we can pass this over, tuck all of our connections behind there, and then we will leave that go for now and run our switch wire in the meantime. So now just to clean up the wiring, we can run our switch wire across, we will put this in the cab area after we connect everything, but I just want to get this over on the other side, so we can clean up some of this wiring over here and kind of get it out of our face. So what you can do is run this across the top here. And we are actually going to take off this panel here and run this wire inside our cab area, but for the moment, we're just gonna stick it right there. So what I wanna do next is attach our relay and there is actually a little steel mounting tab underneath here that we can bolt this mounting tab to. So I'm just going to take out the T30 Torx bolt that's holding on this side of the engine cover so I can access this mounting tab here. I'm just using a T30 Torx bit and then a small extension. As soon as that bolt is out we can just raise this up and you can see that this mounting tab is perfect for this relay. So they don't provide you with a bolt, however you can take any, really any bolt that fits through here. I just grabbed one with a little nut on the back. I'm just gonna tighten that down with my Phillips head screwdriver and a small wrench. Now the size will depend on what bolt you use. So now we can reinstall our T30 Torx bolt holding on our engine cover, and move on to attaching our connections, and then we will attach it to our battery. So now we can take our long male leads and connect them to each of the end female leads for our circular lights. You're actually going to connect these above the frame horn, then you can do the same thing with the other longer male lead on the other side. Pass that over the frame horn and then connect it. So what I would recommend for the shorter leads, because these middle lights do have longer female leads, that you use the shorter leads in the middle for the rectangular lights, and that kind of keeps everything clean, but it also keeps everything tighter than it would be if you used a different combination of the shorter and the longer leads. So what you can actually do with this is clean this up, zip tie this, and even run it behind this little channel here. So now we can attach our positive and negative leads to our battery terminals. So I'm taking a 13-millimeter deep socket, and these are pretty large connectors, so I just picked the biggest accessory stud here. Place that on there, and then just thread this back on and tighten it down. Then we can take a 12-millimeter deep socket and go over to our positive terminal. Again, I just picked the biggest bolt, largest flange here, just so that it's gonna hold this connector properly. Now we're gonna tuck that cover back over, tuck this fuse, really wherever you want, and just zip tie it away, you can clean it up. So now we can go ahead and run this inside the cab area. So what you might wanna do is zip tie everything up and out of the way first. We are not zip tying it up and out of the way, but what we are gonna do is run this wire through our cowl here. So I'm going to first tuck this wire between our foam, and just tuck our connector in the cowl, and we will take this off in just a second after we have the hood closed, so I can give you guys a better visual of that. So our next step is like I mentioned, to remove this cowl. So we're going to remove four bolts, two on the lower part of the cowl and then two up top. So I'm using a T40 Torx bit to do that. And that will just slide off, and you can see that we have all of our wiring here. So what we're gonna do now is run our switch inside, so I just place it on the other side of the door there. And then we have this little area, this gap here where we can tuck this in to place. Now you wanna make sure that this wire is free of this bolt hole, because we're gonna put our cowl back on in just a second, and we don't want that interfering with that there. So once your wire is inside, we're going to put our cowl back on. So our next step is to find a place to hide this wire, which this side panel is a perfect option for that, so I'm gonna take a trim removal tool and pop that off. So if you press on one side, you should be able to wedge this in without damaging the interior, then you can just work your way down. So once that is out, we can tuck this wire back in here, depending on where you want it in the dash, then you can pop this panel back over. And then you can peel back that tape and place it wherever you want it. And you still will be able to tuck a little bit in here. We're just going to place it right there, so it's easily accessible. Whenever we want to turn our lights on, we can turn them on and turn them off. So after we're finished with our bumper, we can move on to the second piece of the puzzle of this kit, the winch. So we're going to start by bolting up our fairlead. This is a hawse fairlead that comes in the kit, it's aluminum, and it's just gonna look really nice on the front here. So we are going to take our provided hardware, it's gonna be the two bolts that do not have these square nuts. Those are for our winch that we'll get to in a second, but we are going to bolt this up right here on the front. So once that is threaded on, we can take a 17-millimeter wrench for the back nut and a 16-millimeter deep socket, and just tighten that down. So we do have to do a little bit of assembly, hook up a couple of cables before we can put this on our Jeep, but I did want to tell you a little bit more about the winch since I couldn't do much of that earlier. So this is a 9500 pound, 5.5 horsepower, 12-volt winch with a synthetic rope. Now on the page right now, there are a ton of options between different pulling capacities, different rope material or cable material, and then different solenoids. So it really comes down to personal preference and setup of your Jeep and what you want to do with it. So with this, obviously this has a synthetic rope. This will not store energy under load, so if you're looking for a safer option compared to a steel cable that can break and lash back, this is going to be it. Even if this does break, it will fall to the ground and not store any of that energy under load like I mentioned. But the only downfall to that is that there is a little bit more maintenance involved and these can be a little bit more expensive. However this kit does come with a winch cover that I'll throw on at the end. So there is some protection there. So the rule of thumb when choosing a pulling capacity for your winch, you want a winch that is roughly one-and-a-half times the loaded weight of your Jeep. So a curb weight of our automatic four-door Wrangler is roughly right around 4400 pounds, so this will be roughly double that, so this is actually a perfect pulling capacity for a lightly armored four-door or a heavily armored two-door, whichever you have, this is a great option for that. So before we put on our solenoid, we do have to attach our ground wire and that's gonna be on a terminal underneath the motor here. So we are going to actually flip our winch over and take off this bolt here. Then we're going to attach our ground wire. You're gonna take a 14-millimeter deep socket, we're gonna use this for all of the terminals, and we are just going to tighten that down. You don't want to tighten it too much, because you will damage the terminal, but we want to make sure that this is snug and that it's not coming off. So now that that's attached, we can flip this back over and work on the top. So this kit will actually come with everything that you need to install this winch. It comes with the fairlead, it comes with the controller. It does come with a cover, it comes with a hook to connect to the rope here. So what we're gonna do first is put on our solenoid, get all of our wires in order before we tighten this down. So in order to tighten that down, we can take a Phillips head screwdriver and just screw in those screws. That's going to be a little tab down there to hold it in place. It's going to act as a stud too. And if you do need to move this and adjust this, it's as simple as grabbing a Phillips head and doing that. So now we can attach our leads from our solenoid to the motor. They are gonna be color-coded. You have your yellow, your positive, that is red, and your negative. So we're gonna take off this nut here and you're gonna have two flat washers underneath. We are going to put this lead or connector in between those two flat washers, put the top flat washer back on, and thread our nut back on. And then we're gonna do the same thing for the other two terminals. So now you can take a 14-millimeter deep socket and tighten those down. You wanna make sure, like I said, don't tighten them down too much because you will damage the stud. So after those are on, we can slide our little sleeves over to protect the terminal. So after we have all of our cables attached to our terminals, we do need to connect this ground wire, so we are going to flip our winch back over, being careful of the solenoid. And we're going to just attach it to this bottom ground here. This is gonna ground to the battery, so we will have a constant ground all the time. So we're just going to pop this off, put our ground wire on, and our lock washer and our nut. We can take our 14-millimeter socket and tighten that down. So now we can take our winch, and first, let me get these longer leads out of the way. So before we actually set it down on our winch plate, we do wanna take our square nuts and insert them in the posts here. This is going to make sure our winch is bolted down and stays in place. You're gonna have two in the back, two on the front. So you wanna line those up, make sure that all of this, these wires are going to be in place, and then if you did see, we do have a little ground wire here that we do need to connect. So we will most likely connect it on the frame horn. So after I put the winch on and got it in position, I did notice that this is not long enough to reach over to our frame, and we don't wanna mount it to the bottom of here since this has a textured powder coat finish on it. We wanna mount it to bare metal for a good ground. So what I'm gonna do here is just attach it to this ground here. So I'm just gonna take that 14-millimeter deep socket. They don't give you much wire with this small ground, so as long as we're connecting it to another ground you should be okay. And again, don't over tighten these. So now that we have our winch in position, if your nut has shifted, you can just take a Phillips head screwdriver or really anything that will fit in this hole here and just reposition that, and then you can take the provided hardware and thread that into place. Wanna make sure that the flat washer is on the back of the bumper, that your lock washer is in the middle, pushing up against your bolt. So this one's gonna be kind of hard to see since we do have this middle section that reinforces, this like middle gusset here, but there are two more holes on the front of the winch plate that we're going to thread our bolts into. And then we can tighten everything down once we get everything threaded and started. So once everything is threaded in place we can take a 16-millimeter deep socket, and I have a small extension here, just so our ratchet's not cranking up against our bumper. We're just gonna tighten everything down and make sure everything is in place. So after our winch is bolted down, we can unlatch our hood, open up our hood, so we can feed our winch wires through to our battery. We're gonna use the same spot where we ran our connectors to our bumper. So our next step is to connect our wires to our battery terminals. I'm taking a 12-millimeter deep socket and we are going to connect positive first. [inaudible 00:30:58] So we can just tighten that down with the same 12-millimeter deep socket. So we could put that back over and now we can connect our negative wire on our negative terminal post. Like I said, it's all down to personal preference where you want your wires to sit. Tighten that down and our winch is all hooked up, so now we just need to close our hood and attach our hook on the front. So now we can clip this zip tie off of our lead here for our synth rope. I kept it on there so the rope wouldn't unspool and be annoying while we were mounting up our winch. So once that is clipped off, you can take the lead and stick it through the fairlead. So then you can free spool your clutch. All you have to do is just turn this handle on free spool and you can pull your line out. We're just gonna pull it out a decent amount while we get our hook ready. So with this hook you'll have a pin here with a little cotter pin as well. We're gonna take the cotter pin out so we can take our hook and hook it on to our D-ring, take our lead and stick the pin through, and then take our cotter pin and put that back through to secure that down. And then you can bend your cotter pin back, and your rope is attached. So now that the winch is all bolted up, I just wanted to show you guys how you're just gonna use your switch. So this is a plugin remote. Just going to pop this off, plug in the three prong remote. There it goes, and then you will be able to step away from your Jeep a safe distance and be able to switch this on and off whenever you need it. After that you're all set. So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install on the Barricade Trail Force HD Front Bumper with the LED lighting and the winch combo, fitting all 2018 JL Wranglers. For more videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Bumper Type||Mid Width|
|Bumper Winch Mount||Winch Mount|
|Bumper Fog Light Fitment||Factory|
Off Road Ready. Ensure you're prepared to hit the trail and handle any situation you can get into by installing a Barricade Trail Force HD Bumper and Winch Combo Kit on your 2018-2023 JL Jeep Wrangler. The include winch can handle all your recovery needs, while the Bumper will protect against road and trail hazards. As an added bonus the integrated LED off-road lights will shine light on the dark path ahead.
Trail Force HD Front Bumper. Barricade manufactures their Trail Force HD Front Bumper from 5/32 inch mild steel plating and 2 inch x 0.120 inch tubing for dependable durability. The D-Ring mounts are welded on both the inside and the outside for additional strength. Barricade then completes the entire Bumper in a rugged two stage finish, using epoxy pre-coating and a high-grade textured black powder coating. As an added bonus, this Trail Force HD Bumper also features (2) integrated LED fog lights and (2) LED accent lights for better nighttime visibility.
Heavy Duty 9500 LB Winch. The included Barricade Winch is driven by a powerful 5.5 HP series-wound 12-volt electric motor. Featuring a rugged 3-stage planetary gear box with a 195.4:1 gear ratio, this Winch provides 9500 lbs of pulling power. Matched with a sliding ring gear clutch and a two-way automatic, in-the-drum braking system, you know you can always rely on this winch to hold your rig. A Hawse fairlead helps to reduce wear and tear on the included 94 foot long Dyneema SK75 Synthetic Rope. This Barricade Winch also includes a wired remote control with a 12 foot lead, allowing you to safely stand clear when in operation.
Simple, Bolt-on Installation. Barricade engineered their Bumper and Winch Combo Kit to be a direct bolt-on upgrade using just basic hand tools. There is no cutting or drilling required for a clean, straight forward installation. With the help of a friend, installation can be completed in about 3 hours.
Application. This Barricade Off-Road Trail Force HD Front Bumper and 9,500 lb. Winch with Synthetic Rope Combo kit is specifically designed for use on 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL models.Line Pull Speeds
Freight Notes. Freight items can only be shipped within the continental 48 states, no expedited methods. What is freight shipping? Your Answers are Right Here!.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Simple installation for anyone.
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