(approx) 2 Hours
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys, today I'm here with the AFE MACH Force XP Hi-Tuck Axle-Back Exhaust System, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers two and four-door with the 3.6 liter V6 motor. So, there's a number of different benefits when upgrading to a new exhaust system including a small performance gains at higher RPMs, as well as a better sound and a better look out of the back end of your Wrangler. This option by AFE is going to do all of that by replacing that big and bulky factory muffler with a high clearance or high tuck axle-back exhaust system. So, as far as sound goes, this is going to be a three out of five on the loudness meter with one being the stock exhaust system and five being incredibly loud. Now, this is gonna sit right in the middle of the spectrum as far as volume goes while still doing a really good job at deepening the tone and making a more aggressive sound out of that 3.6 liter.So, as far as interior noise goes you're not really gonna have a lot, you will be able to hear your exhaust system while you're stepping on the throttle. However, there's not gonna be a lot of drone considering that you're keeping that factory resonator on your cat-back piping and you're just getting rid of that big and bulky muffler. Now the big takeaway with this is the fact that this is a high clearance exhaust system, perfect for somebody who's doing a lot of trail riding and wants to increase their departure angle while getting rid of that big exhaust system from the factory that could potentially get hung up or damaged while out on the trail. With all of that being said this is also going to be incredibly affordable for an axle-back system at roughly $200. So, you do have to keep in mind the simplicity of this exhaust system. Other more expensive options on the page are usually gonna have a big muffler or even a medium-sized muffler with either a dual-tip or a single tip outlet.With this, you're just getting that single over the axle piping, it's going to be very simple and sit up against the frame, perfect again for anybody who's looking for something that's going to cut back on price while still giving you those trail performance gains, small horsepower and torque gains, while also creating a better look and better sound out of your 3.6 liter. As far as install goes this is gonna be a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, you're gonna need some pretty basic hand tools to get the job done and about one to two hours worth of your time. So, speaking of that install let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were PB B'laster or you could use any penetrating oil, an impact wrench, a 10-inch extension, a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, a 15-millimeter deep socket, a 13-millimeter swivel socket, and a hanger removal tool.So, there's a couple of ways that you could take off your axle-back, you could take it out of the isolators or out of the hangers and remove it that way or you can completely remove the hangers. I personally remove both of the hangers on either side just because there's not a lot of room next to this large muffler. So, for that you're gonna need a 13-millimeter socket and a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench and we can take off the two bolts that are holding on each hanger. This may be a little bit difficult to see however, we're gonna be on top of the hanger and this is the bolt on the backside here. I'm gonna take a 13-millimeter swivel socket, a 10-inch extension and ratchet, go over the sway bar and start removing that bolt. Now, when that bolt is completely removed we can head to the bottom one. So, now we can move to the bolt on the side that's threaded into the frame. I'm gonna use a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench because there's not a lot of room here and we can start to remove that bolt.So, once that's unthreaded you can actually keep the hanger hooked on to the frame here. It will stay in place while we take out the bolt on the other side. So, our next step is to loosen up this clamp, I'm gonna be using a 15-millimeter deep socket to do that as well as my impact wrench. Once that's loosened up, we can open up that clamp a little bit and we can wiggle off our axle-back. So, what we can do now is unhook our hanger brackets from the frame, do that on either side and it should drop down and we can wiggle the piping and it should come right off. Before we hop into the inside I wanted to step down and tell you guys a little bit about the differences and the benefits that you're gonna receive out of this new AFE axle-back system, especially in comparison to our factory setup. Now, right off the bat, you can tell that we are dramatically decreasing the size with moving over to this new AFE axle-back.Our factory exhaust system has a big and bulky and very large muffler that can get in the way especially if you're out on the trail, and it doesn't do the best as far as departure angles go. Not to mention the muffler itself is baffled and it's very restrictive. So, with this new system, we are completely getting rid of that muffler. So, that's gonna free up a lot of airflow and it's gonna help you out with your tone and your sound of your 3.6 liter. Now, the big takeaway about this new exhaust system is the fact that it is a high tuck. And like I mentioned before, with your factory exhaust system it can get in the way, it can get damaged, especially if you're crawling out around on the trail. With this, this is gonna sit high and tight up against your frame rail and you're not even really gonna be able to see it from the back of your Wrangler. So if you are coming down off of an obstacle, this is going to be completely out of the way and you really don't have to worry about your exhaust system at all, especially when you're out on the trail.Not to mention this is gonna be a big step up in materials. This is gonna be made of a mandrel-bent two and a half-inch 409 stainless steel in comparison to the lower quality materials used with the factory exhaust. This is also gonna have a factory style hanger on the side, we are gonna be using the isolators from the factory and it is gonna match up perfectly up against the frame. And of course you are getting all the clamps and all the necessary hardware that you need with it making this a complete kit. So, enough about these two side by side, let's go ahead and nut up our new one. So, what we're gonna do first is swap over our driver side hanger. So, I'm gonna use a little bit of PB B'laster, you can use any lubricant that's going to help it slide off the hanger a little bit better. So, I'm gonna use a hanger removal tool, you can also just either slide it off with a flathead screwdriver, a pry bar, or however you wanna do it, this just makes it a little bit easier.All right, then making sure that it's in the same orientation, what we're gonna do is just slide it on to our new exhaust. It should have some PB B'laster on it already so you can slide it on, it's a lot easier to do this off-car than it is on-car. Once that's over that little lip there, we could go ahead and mount this up. So, making sure that we have our clamp on our new axle-back piping, we can go ahead and go underneath our sway bar over our axle and wiggle this into place. There is gonna be a notch just like the one on the factory exhaust. What I'm actually gonna do is wiggle this hanger and isolator down just so I'm not banging it up against the frame and it should go right into place and sit on that little notch there. Then we can move this back into place if you did move it down, put this up against the frame and mount it in the factory location with the factory bolts.We can tighten those down with the 13-millimeter socket. Now that our muffler is out of the way you won't really need that extension, you repeat that for the one on the frame here. Last but not least, we can tighten up our clamp using that same 15-millimeter socket as well as the impact wrench making sure that the clamp is sitting over both pipes. That's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Increases Horsepower and Torque with Aggressive Tone. The aFe MACH Force XP Hi-Tuck Axle-Back Exhaust is the perfect replacement of your heavy and low-hanging stock assembly. This system is mandrel-bent to get out gasses and wastes from your Jeep Wrangler JL as fast as possible, thus boosting the output of the 3.6L Pentastar V6 that powers it. And it delivers an aggressive tone when doing so.
Replaces Stock Assembly for Increased Ground Clearance. This axle-back exhaust is lighter and installs higher than your factory assembly. Couple that with a Hi-Tuck tip, and you will enjoy the extra ground clearance as you conquer rough terrain or extreme angles and descents.
Durable Construction. Due to the 100% MIG hand-welding and 2.50-inch mandrel-bent 409 stainless steel tubing, this Hi-Tuck axle-back exhaust is primed for unparalleled durability and long-lasting use.
Straightforward Installation. No modification or special tools are needed for this axle-back exhaust, which directly bolts onto the factory mounting locations of your Jeep. Installation should last for about 2 hours.
2-Year Warranty. This Hi-Tuck exhaust is guaranteed to be free from manufacture defects for a 2-year period after the date of purchase. Some exclusions may apply; please see the manufacturer’s warranty for details.
Application. The aFe MACH Force XP Hi-Tuck Axle-Back Exhaust is specifically designed to fit 2018-2020 3.6L Jeep Wrangler JL models.
Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Simple installation for anyone.
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