(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hi, guys. So, today we're checking out the Mammoth 3-Inch Front Leveling Kit Fitting all 2005 and newer 6-Lug Toyota Tacomas. So, if you are looking to add a little bit of extra height to your truck and you're looking for the easiest and most affordable way possible to do so, this option by Mammoth is going to be a great choice to take a look into. Now, this kit is going to come with two strut spacers for the front that are gonna open up a lot of room inside that wheel well for a more aggressive tire. This is gonna add some extra height, of course, and better ground clearance while you're taking your truck off-road. And overall it is going to eliminate that rake and create a more defined stance out of your truck. As far as what size tires you can run with this kit, 31-inch tires will fit without needing to do any modifications and you'll have plenty of room for a more aggressive tread pattern with those 31s. Now, if you wanted to run a 33-inch tire, you would need to do some small modifications in order to fit those, otherwise, you will have some rubbing issues.Now, this is going to come with the two strut spacers that you see on the table here. So, again, this is going to be a pretty bare-bones kit. But perfect for somebody who's looking for a straightforward way to add some height to the front end of their truck. Now, I would like to call out the fact that this is going to add 3-inches of lift in the front. But the spacers themselves are gonna roughly measure out to 1.5 inches. Now, that's because of the suspension geometry and the spring compression. After these are installed, because of those factors, this is going to come out to roughly 3 inches of lift. Now, with that being said, these are going to be very durable, made of a CNC machined aluminum material that is gonna have a nice black anodized finish on top. So, these will be able to hold up for the long run and add all of those benefits to your truck that I just mentioned. Now, as far as pricing is concerned, like I said, this is gonna be a very affordable way to gain some height to your truck at roughly $75.Now, in my personal opinion, I think for that price point, that you're getting all of the quality that you would want out of a spacer lift. And of course, it is going to be very straightforward and that's really what you're looking for out of a leveling kit. Now, in comparison to some other choices, some other options may be different as far as the construction and the sizing is concerned. So, if we take a look at some other choices in comparison to this, they may be for a 2-inch lift or a 2.5-inch lift as to where this is going to add 3 inches of lift to the front. And then you take a look at some more expensive choices that are usually going to include a couple more components, they may include blocks for the back, they may include drop brackets for the differential, the skid plate, and the sway bar. So, overall, if you're looking for a little bit more to a lift kit, those are usually just gonna be a little bit more expensive, but if you're looking for a very affordable way to add some height to the front end of your truck and get all of those benefits that I mentioned before, this is definitely gonna be right up your alley.As far as install is concerned, I'm gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. This is going to be a very straightforward installation. You are gonna need about two hours worth of your time and some very basic hand tools to get the job done. So, speaking of that install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were a pry bar, a breaker bar, a hammer, a dead blow, a pneumatic impact wrench, PB Blaster, a punch, a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a trim removal tool, a 19-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 14-millimeter wrench, a 3-inch extension, a 19-millimeter deep socket, swivel socket and [inaudible 00:03:24] socket, 17-millimeter, 16-millimeter, 14-millimeter, 12-millimeter, and 10-millimeter socket, 6-millimeter Allen socket, a pair of needlenose pliers, and an electric impact wrench. So, the first step of our install is to get the truck up in the air and supported. Now, I have it on a lift here but if you are at home you can use a jack and jack stands for this install. And then our next step is to take off our front tire.Now, I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket and my spline key. However, the tool that you use may depend on what lug nut size that you have. So, after the tire is off, what we're gonna do at this point is address our brake lines. There's gonna be a brake line bracket on the spindle, one on the frame, and then we're going to have one on the upper control arm. For this step, you're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter socket. So, I'm gonna remove the bracket on the spindle first using a 12-millimeter socket. Now, I'm also using a 3-inch extension to give myself a little bit of room next to this brake caliper here. Once that's removed, we're gonna take out the little hook that's in the spindle and we're gonna just push it back. This is going to allow us to remove our spindle from this upper control arm and not have our brake lines affected, stressed out, or taut in the meantime. We wanna keep those protected just because we don't want to break them. We would have to replace them if so.Next, we're gonna remove the brake line bracket on the frame. I'm also gonna use that 12-millimeter socket and the 3-inch extension. So, what we're gonna do now is remove the brake line from our upper control arm. Now, what I'm gonna do is remove the bracket as a whole, but you can bend back these tabs and remove the line from there. I just find it easier to just remove the whole bracket. So, I'm using a 10-millimeter socket, I'm just gonna take out that bolt. So, what we're gonna do at this point is remove the cotter pin in the outer tie rod. We do need to disconnect this from the knuckle or the spindle here in order to get our strut out. So, I'm gonna take a pair of needlenose pliers. I also sprayed this with PB Blaster just to loosen that up, but I'm gonna take that pair of needlenose pliers and I'm gonna go ahead and remove that cotter pin. What we're gonna do at this point is remove the castle nut up top. I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket to remove that nut there.So, the outer tie rod might not drop out right away. What we're gonna do at this point is take the castle nut and thread that on a couple of threads. And then we're gonna take a hammer, and just hit the side of the knuckle or the side of the spindle here, and it should release that ball joint. So, now that the ball joint released from the knuckle here, what we're gonna do is just remove it completely. Thread that back on because we'll be reattaching that a little bit later. And then we're gonna disconnect our sway bar. What we're gonna do next is remove the sway bar end link from our spindle. I'm gonna be using a 17-millimeter socket and we're gonna remove this nut. So, if you were unable to get the hardware for the sway bar end link off with a 17-millimeter socket and that impact wrench, what you can do is remove it with a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a ratchet and a 17-millimeter wrench. This is just going to allow you to keep the ball joint still while you are removing that hardware. If you do use an impact wrench, sometimes that can move and even if you put pressure on it, sometimes it just keeps spinning.So, this is an alternative method that works pretty well, it just takes a little bit longer. So, I'm gonna use that 17-millimeter wrench. I'm gonna put that on the nut side and same with the 6-millimeter Allen socket. Once that's removed, we'll be able to remove our sway bar from our spindle. So, the sway bar end link wanted to stay in the spindle. In order to get it out, what I'm gonna do is just take a punch and we're gonna put that where we put the 6-millimeter Allen socket, I'm also gonna take a dead blow and we're gonna just tap that out. So, now what we're gonna do is remove the upper control arm ball joint from our spindle here. Now, we need to remove this cotter pin. I'm gonna use the same pair of needlenose pliers that I used before. After the cotter pin is removed we're gonna remove the castle nut. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter swivel socket. So, what I'm gonna do is take that completely off, then I'm gonna thread it back on just a couple of threads. Again we have to tap the ball joint out of the spindle because the ball joint is tapered. So it usually just sticks there like it did with the other two. So, again, we're gonna have to take a ball-peen hammer and tap that out of the spindle.Now, the nut there is gonna catch it, that's why we threaded it on a little bit. There we go. Once that pops out of place, what we're gonna do is continue to remove that 19-millimeter nut. And now when we do this, the spindle is going to fall. Just make sure that you have a hand on the spindle. We're gonna carefully lay it to the side because we will need to remove our strut assembly in just a couple of minutes. But we don't want to stress out any of the joints, any of the brake lines. We wanna make sure that those are protected, so make sure you keep a handle on this. As you can see that is disconnected. Now what we have to do is repeat that process on the other side, because we will need to move our sway bar out of the way in order to remove our strut assembly. So, after you've taken apart the other side, what we're gonna do is start to work on our strut assembly. We're gonna have three studs at the top. I'm going to take a 14-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna remove that hardware up there.So, after the hardware is taken out of the top of the strut, what we're gonna do is take out this lower strut bolt. Now, for this, I have a 19-millimeter wrench and 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, I would also recommend that you support the lower control arm when doing this. Now, to remove this bolt, you might have to play with the height of the control arm itself. So, it looks like we'll need to raise it just a hair. So, what I just did was lowered this down a little bit. Like I said, you will have to kind of play with the height of the lower control arm in order to get this bolt loosened up so that you can just push it right through. So, what I'm gonna do is just push that bolt through and remove it. So, what you can also do, just like we did with the sway bar, is just take a punch. This makes it a little bit easier if it doesn't wanna come out fully by hand, and you can just tap it through. Now, again, we're gonna have to kind of mess with the height here. You may have to move the spindle around in order to do this. And we also are going to have to get this outer tie rod and the sway bar out of the way to remove our strut assembly.So, in order to make room to remove the strut assembly, what I did was pull the sway bar all the way down. The sway bar end link does have to pass that axle. So, once it's pulled all the way down, the tie rod is pulled most of the way out. What we're gonna do is just push the strut towards our brake rotor here or towards the spindle. And we should be able to just pop that out of the way. So, once the strut assembly is out on this side, what we're gonna do is repeat that process on the other side and then we're gonna install our spacers. So, at this point, now that we have our strut assemblies on the table, we can install our spacers. Now, these are gonna just sit right over our strut assembly. There's three cutouts, two on one side, one on the other side, and this is just gonna go right over our studs. So, once the spacer is on the top of our strut, we're gonna take our factory hardware, and I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket to help me hand-thread it on. Once those are all threaded on by hand, we're gonna take a ratchet and just tighten those up. Then we're gonna repeat the same thing for the other strut.So, making sure that the two mounting locations on the front of the spacer are facing the outside of the wheel well, what we're gonna do is line this up and put it into our spring perch. Now, you might have to tinker with the height of the lower control arm in order to get this into the mount. So, once that's in place, we can raise this up to meet the upper spring perch, and then we can secure it down with the provided hardware. At this point what we're gonna do is grab our provided hardware which is the bolt lock washer and flat washer, and we're gonna put that through the top of the spring perch, and thread that into the spacer. So, once those are threaded in by hand, what we're gonna do next is connect the bottom bolt, and then we can start to button everything. So, in order to line up this bottom bolt hole, what you're gonna do is pull down on the lower control arm, just being mindful of those brake lines. Now, if it doesn't wanna go all the way through, we can take our punch that we used before and a dead blow and just tap that through.Now, what I'm gonna do, just to make sure that the brake lines are fine, is just give a little pressure on this lower control arm, and then push that strut up into the spring perch up there. And just be mindful when you're raising the lower control arm. Just keep your eye on your lift points, because there's more pressure on the spring. Now it is going to push up against the body, so just be mindful of that while you're doing this. We're just gonna give it a little bit compression. Then we're gonna take our washer and our bolt from the factory, thread that on. And then what we're gonna do at this point is tighten down those top bolts that we threaded in before. What we're gonna do at this point is take a 16-millimeter socket and tighten up the 3 bolts on the top of the spring perch. Now, we're gonna repeat that for the other strut assembly, and then we can start to put our suspension components back together. Next, we're gonna connect our spindle to our upper control arm. You wanna make sure that you're using factory hardware.Now, if the spindle is not meeting up with the upper control arm, if the upper control arm needs to come down a little bit, what you can do is loosen up the nut on the upper control arm with a 19-millimeter socket and it will give you a little bit of wiggle room. Now, you wanna make sure that when you tighten it down, you're doing it on the ground. So, that will be your last step if you have to loosen up the upper control arm. So that is gonna depend on if the spindle reaches. What you're gonna do is try to give the lower control arm some compression as well. So, because this is a decent size spacer, it looks like that I am going to have to loosen up the upper control arm in order for it to meet my spindle here. So, what I'm gonna do is just take off this little cover so I can access this bolt here. I'm gonna take a trim removal tool or a clip removal tool, and I'm just gonna remove these couple of clips in this inner wheel well cover, just to give myself some room to work with. I can just flip that down.Once that's down, we're gonna take a 19-millimeter socket. I'm also just gonna use a breaker bar. And we don't have to completely take this nut off. We just want to loosen it up so we can just have a little bit of wiggle room with this. Now, you might need a 19-millimeter wrench for the other side if the bolt head is spinning. It looks like I'm good right now. Now, you just wanna loosen it up to the point where you are able to manipulate the height of the control arm. Now that we have a little bit more movement here, what we're gonna do is grab our castle nut and put that ball joint and the upper control arm through our spindle and get it connected. So, once you're able to push the control arm through and catch a couple of threads, then we can actually go ahead and tighten that up with a 19-millimeter swivel socket that we used before. That's gonna pull the control arm up, the lower control arm up into the upper control arm, and compress the spring a little bit. And we're not gonna tighten down the upper control arm just yet. We wanna make sure that we do that with the weight of the truck on the control arm so we don't harm the bushings in the process.So, I'm gonna take a 19-millimeter swivel socket and we're gonna tighten that up. Next, we're gonna reinstall that cotter pin. I'm just using a pair of needlenose pliers like the ones we used before. Once that's on there, we can install our sway bar end link. Now we can install our sway bar end link. I'm putting that through the spindle and securing it with the factory hardware, tightening it up with a 17-millimeter socket. Next, we're gonna install our outer tie rod. So, once the outer tie rod is through, we're gonna tighten that nut up with a 19-millimeter socket and then install a new cotter pin. Once that ball joint is in or the outer tie rod is in, we can install a new cotter pin. We're unable to use the old one. You wanna make sure that that is lined up with the castle nut. And then we're gonna tighten down our lower strut mount. So, I'm gonna take a 19-millimeter socket and wrench, tighten down that lower strut mount bolt. Now we can reinstall our brake lines. I'm gonna start with the one on the spindle here. We're gonna take that factory bolt, thread that into the spindle, and tighten that up with a 12-millimeter socket.Now we're gonna tighten down our frame bracket bolt. I'm using the same 12-millimeter socket. And then we're gonna tighten down the bolt for the bracket that hangs on the control arm. We're gonna tighten that up with a 10-millimeter socket. Now, after those are installed, we're gonna repeat that on the other side and then throw our tires on. So now, we're gonna throw our tires back on. And then I'm gonna use my 19-millimeter socket with the spline key, to tighten all of these down and repeat that for the other side. So, at this point, what we're gonna do is lower the truck down on its own weight. We need to get the truck on its own weight to tighten down that upper control arm because if we did it in the air, it would damage the bushings when it was dropped down on its own weight. So, what I'm gonna do is lower the lift, and you'll see that control arm spring up where it needs to be. So, now that the truck's down on its own weight, what we're gonna do is tighten up our upper control arm bolt. I'm going to use a 19-millimeter socket on this side.Now, if the bolt head starts spinning, you will need a 19-millimeter wrench on the other side. Before when we loosened it up, we didn't necessarily need that, but I would just keep that nearby. So, after everything is tightened down, what I would recommend at this point is to make sure that everything is torqued to the factory specifications and that you take your truck to go get an alignment and you'll be all set to go. So, that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this. And always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Leveling Kit Location||Front|
|Leveling Kit Lift Height||3.00 Inch|
|Leveling Kit Includes Shocks||Shocks Not Included|
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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