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Hi, guys. So, today we're checking out the Mammoth 2-Inch Front Leveling Kit fitting all 2005 and newer 6-Lug Toyota Tacomas. So, if you're in search of a very easy and a very affordable way to add some extra height to the front end of your truck, this option by Mammoth is gonna be a great choice to take a look into. Now, this kit is going to come up with two spacers for your front struts that are gonna add some ground clearance, open up some room inside the wheel well for some more aggressive tires, and overall it is going to eliminate that rake and create a more defined stance out of your truck. When it comes to what tire you can fit with this kid I would recommend a 31-inch tire, either a stock tire or a more aggressive 31. You won't need to do any modifications to fit a more aggressive 31-inch tire and you'll have plenty of clearance. Now, as for 33-inch tires, you will need to make modifications to fit those, otherwise, you will have rubbing issues. And I would recommend that if you are running 30s that you only stay on the road since clearance will be tight.And, I would like to call out right off the bat that these are not going to measure out to a full 2 inches, these are going to measure all to 34 millimeters or an inch and a third. However, after they're installed because of the string compression and the suspension geometry, the end result will be 2 inches of lift in the front. Now, the spacers themselves are going to be very durable, made of a CNC machined aluminum material. So they will hold up for a very long time, especially with a black anodized finish that's on top that's gonna protect the aluminum underneath from any corrosion and keep these on your truck for the long run. Now, this overall is going to be great for somebody who's really looking for something that's easy, straightforward, and a pretty bare-bones kit, you don't wanna do a whole lot when it comes to lifting their truck. They're just looking for those couple of benefits that I had mentioned before.Now, as far as the pricing is concerned on this kit, like I said before, this is going to be very affordable coming in at roughly $75. Now, what I do really like about that is the fact that again, this is going to be a very straightforward kit. So, that price point is very well worth the price, especially for the quality that you're getting in the kit, even though it is just a couple of spacers here. Now, when we're taking a look at some other choices in comparison to this, some other options that are a little bit more expensive are usually just going to be a taller lift height. So, instead of a 2-inch like you see here, they may be a 2.5 or 3-inch, or they may just come with extra components. So, instead of just a front leveling kit like this, they may come with a rear block for a full lift kit, they may come with a couple of accommodating features like a sway bar bracket or a differential or skid plate drop. Now, in this case, you wouldn't necessarily need those just because we're just lifting the front roughly 2 inches there. So overall, again, if you're looking for a bare-bones straightforward kit that's gonna get the job done at a very affordable price, this is going to be something to take a look at.So, as far as install is concerned, I'm gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Again, this is going to be pretty straightforward. You will need a little bit of mechanical experience or mechanical know-how to get this done. But it shouldn't take you any longer than two hours to get the job done in your driveway with some pretty basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for my install were a breaker bar, a pry bar, a dead blow, a hammer, an electric impact wrench, a punch, a 19-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 14-millimeter wrench, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a 19-millimeter deep socket, shallow socket and swivel socket, a 16-millimeter, 14-millimeter, 12-millimeter, and 10-millimeter socket, a 3-inch extension, pair of needlenose pliers, PB B'laster, and a pneumatic impact wrench.So, the first step of our install is to get the truck up in the air and supported. Now, I have it on a lift here but if you are at home you can use a jack and jack stands for this install. And then our next step is to take off our front tire. Now I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket and my spline key. However, the tool that you use may depend on what lug nut size that you have.So, after the tire is off, what we can do at this point is address our brake lines. There's gonna be a brake line bracket on the spindle, one on the frame, and then we're gonna have one on the upper control arm. For this step, you're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter socket. So, I'm gonna remove the bracket on the spindle first using a 12-millimeter socket. Now, I'm also using a 3-inch extension to give myself a little bit of room next to this brake caliper here. Once that's removed, you can take out the little hook that's in the spindle and we can just push it back. This is going to allow us to remove our spindle from this upper control arm and not have our brake lines affected, stressed out, or taut in the meantime, we wanna keep those protected just because we don't want to break them. We would have to replace them If so.Next, we can remove the brake line bracket on the frame. I'm also gonna use that 12-millimeter socket and the 3-inch extension. So, what we can do now is remove the brake line from our upper control arm. Now, what I'm gonna do is remove the bracket as a whole, but you can bend back these tabs and remove the line from there, I just find it easier to just remove the whole bracket. So, I'm using a 10-millimeter socket, I'm just gonna take out that bolt. So, what we can do at this point is remove the cotter pin in the outer tie rod, we do need to disconnect this from the knuckle or the spindle here in order to get our strut out. So, I'm gonna take a pair of needlenose pliers. I also sprayed this with PB B'laster just to loosen that up, but I'm gonna take that pair of needlenose pliers and I'm gonna go ahead and remove that cotter pin. What we can do at this point is remove the castle nut up top, I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket to remove that nut there. So, the outer tie rod might not drop out right away. What we can do at this point is take the castle nut and thread that on a couple of threads. And then we can take a hammer and just hit the side of the knuckle or the side of the spindle here and it should release that ball joint. So now that the ball joint released from the knuckle here what we can do is just remove it completely, thread that back on because we'll be reattaching that a little bit later, and then we can disconnect our sway bar.What we can do next is remove the sway bar end link from our spindle, I'm gonna be using a 17-millimeter socket and we can remove this nut. So, if you were unable to get the hardware for the sway bar end link off with a 17-millimeter socket and that impact wrench, what you can do is remove it with a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a ratchet, and a 17-millimeter wrench. This is just going to allow you to keep the ball joint still while you are removing that hardware. If you do use an impact wrench sometimes that can move and even if you put pressure on it, sometimes it just keeps spinning. So, this is an alternative method that works pretty well, just takes a little bit longer. So, I'm gonna use that 17-millimeter wrench, gonna put that on the nut side, and same with the 6-millimeter Allen socket. Once that's removed, we'll be able to remove our sway bar from our spindle. So, the sway bar end link wanted to stay in the spindle. In order to get it out what I'm gonna do is just take a punch and we can put that where we put the 6-millimeter Allen socket, I'm also gonna take a dead blow and we can just tap that out. So, now what we can do is remove the upper control arm ball joint from our spindle here. Now, we need to remove this cotter pin, I'm gonna use the same pair of needlenose pliers that I used before. After the cotter pin is removed we can remove the castle nut. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter swivel socket. So, what I'm gonna do is take that completely off, then I'm gonna thread it back on just a couple of threads. Again we have to tap the ball joint out of the spindle because the ball joint is tapered. So, it usually just sticks there like it did with the other two. So again, we're gonna have to take a ball-peen hammer and tap that out of the spindle. Now, the nut there is gonna catch it, that's why we thread it on a little bit. Once that pops out of place, what we can do is continue to remove that 19-millimeter nut. And now when we do this, the spindle is going to fall, just make sure that you have a hand on the spindle. We're gonna carefully lay it to the side because we will need to remove our strut assembly in just a couple minutes. But we don't want to stress out any of the joints, any of the brake lines, we wanna make sure that those are protected. Make sure you keep a handle on this. As you can see that is disconnected. Now, what we have to do is repeat that process on the other side, because we will need to move our sway bar out of the way in order to remove our strut assembly.So, after you've taken apart the other side, what we can do is start to work on our strut assembly. We're gonna have three studs at the top. I'm gonna take a 14-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna remove that hardware up there. So, after the hardware is taken out of the top of the strut, what we can do is take out this lower strut bolt. Now for this, I have a 19-millimeter wrench and 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, I would also recommend that you support the lower control arm when doing this. Now, to remove this bolt, you might have to play with the height of the control arm itself. So, it looks like we'll need to raise it just a hair. So, what I just did was lowered this down a little bit. Like I said, you will have to kind of play with the height of the lower control arm in order to get this bolt loosened up so that you can just push it right through. So, what I'm gonna do is just push that bolt through and remove it. So, what you can also do, just like we did with the sway bar is just take a punch, this makes it a little bit easier if it doesn't wanna come out fully by hand. You can just tap it through. Now, again, we're gonna have to kind of mess with the height here. You may have to move the spindle around in order to do this. And we also are gonna have to get this outer tie rod and the sway bar out of the way to remove our strut assembly. So, in order to make room to remove the strut assembly, what I did was pull the sway bar all the way down. The sway bar end link does have to pass that axle. So, once it's pulled all the way down, the tie rod is pulled most of the way out, what we can do is just push the strut towards our brake rotor here or towards the spindle. And we should be able to just pop that out of the way. So, once the strut assembly is out on this side, what we can do is repeat that process on the other side, and then we can install our spacers.So, now that we have our strut assemblies out and on the table, what we can do is add our spacer. Now, this is gonna sit right on top of the strut assembly itself. And we're gonna have three cutouts for the studs at the top of the strut assembly, and we're going to secure it down with the factory hardware. And then once we get it into the truck, we have hardware that we can bolt through the top of the strut perch or the spring perch there.So, at this point, what we can do is attach our strut assembly, making sure that the cutouts are facing up. Now, at this point, what I would recommend to do is to measure out or make sure that the studs aren't exceeding the top of the spacer itself. Now the top here is going to sit flush with the spring perch or the strut assembly perch. So, you wanna make sure that this is not going to interfere with this sitting flush. Now, these do have a little bit of a point to the end of them. So, if you do have to grind them down, I definitely recommend to do so, we have already done that. So, at this point, what we can do is attach our factory hardware. I'm using a 14-millimeter socket and I'm just gonna thread it that into place. And we can do that for all three studs. Once those are hand-threaded on, we can just tighten them up with that 14-millimeter socket and a ratchet. Then we can repeat that for the other strut assembly.So, making sure for the spacer that the two holes are at the front and the one hole is at the back, what we can do is fit this into the spring assembly, kind of get it into place, and then we can bolt it down from there. So, once that is in the lower control arm mount, and sitting pretty much in place, what we can do is kind of raise it up. Not to where that it's completely sitting on the top perch there, but to where it's close, so we can thread in our bolts. At this point, what we can do is align the bolt holes on the spacer with the top of our spring perch and we can thread those into place. Now, this is gonna be the only hardware included in the kit. It's a bolt, lock washer, and flat washer, making sure that the lock washer's in the middle. Next, we can take a 16-millimeter socket, I'm also using the 3/8-inch drive ratchet that was on the table, and we can just tighten those up. I would recommend too just a little bit of blue Loctite on these bolts just to make sure that they stay in there. What we can do at this point is secure the bottom of our strut assembly. So, if it pops out like this, all you have to do is just push that back into the mount. Now, I would recommend just tinkering with the height of the lower control arm that's gonna align where the lower control arm bolts to the strut assembly itself. Once that's through, we can secure it back down with the washer and the factory nut. So, at this point, what you want to do is repeat that process for the other side for the strut assembly and then we can start to button everything up.At this point we can start reattaching our components. I'm gonna start with the spindle and the control arm here. Now, if the control arm is not reaching the spindle, what I recommend to do for the moment is just to loosen up the control arm itself. Now, ours looks like it will reach, but if you need to, you can use a 19-millimeter socket to just loosen up that nut on the end, and then it will give you some wiggle room in order to move the control arm. So, once you have a couple threads through we can reattach that castle nut, and then you should be also able to reattach the sway bar here. We can reattach that factory nut. Next, we can attach this outer tie rod here. Then we can thread on the castle nut.Then we can start to tighten everything up, I'm gonna start with the spindle and the control arm here. I'm using that 18-millimeter swivel socket that we use before, I'm also using a 3-inch extension. If you are unable to reach without an extension, you can just pop the sway bar out real quick. Next, we can tighten up that sway bar end link using a 17-millimeter socket. Next, we can tighten up our outer tie rod with a 19-millimeter socket. And last but not least, we can tighten down to our lower strut assembly bolt with a 19-millimeter socket and a 19-millimeter wrench. Next, we can reinstall our cotter pins. Now, I'm gonna reuse the one at the top but we're going to replace the outer tie rod cotter pin. I'm also using a pair of needlenose pliers for this. We can take our new cotter pin, put that through, and then we can bend the cotter pin back with that pair of needlenose pliers. Next, we can reattach our brake lines. I'm gonna start with the brake line that's mounted up to the spindle. And thread it in a couple times by hand and then we'll take that 12-millimeter socket that we used before and tighten that up. Next, we can tighten down our brake line bracket that is connected to the frame, can tighten that up with that 12-millimeter socket. And last but not least, we can attach the brake line that's attached to the upper control arm using the factory hardware. And we can tighten that up with a 10-millimeter socket.Now that everything's bolted up, we can throw our tires back on. Now you can tighten them back up, I'm gonna be using that same 19-millimeter socket for my spline key. So, at this point, I would recommend that if you loosen up the upper control arm that you lower the truck down on its own weight, tighten that up, and torque everything to spec. Then I also recommend that you go get in alignment after the lift kit is installed and you'll be all set to go.So, that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this, and always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Removes Factory Rake. The Mammoth 4x4 Leveling Kit will not only increase the ground clearance of your Tacoma, but it will also raise the front end by 2-inches to eliminate the original factory rake. This Kit will level out your Toyota Tacoma for a more aggressive, ground paving appearance.
Quality Construction. These Mammoth 4x4 Strut Spacers have been CNC-machined from aircraft grade billet aluminum for superior strength and durability. Mammoth 4x4 then completes their Leveling spacers in a durable black anodized finish for good looks and long lasting corrosion resistance.
Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation. Mammoth 4x4 designed their Front Leveling Kit to be a straight forward bolt-on install with no cutting or drilling required. With all the necessary hardware included, this Leveling Kit can be installed in about 2 hours time.
Application. This Mammoth 4x4 2.0-inch Front Leveling Kit is specifically engineered to fit 2005-2023 6-Lug Toyota Tacoma models.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
