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K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake (05-11 4.0L Tacoma)

Item TT1165
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$349.99 (kit)

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Ship to: Ashburn - 20149
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Adam here with And today, we're taking a closer look at and installing the K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake available for the 2005 to 2011 4-liter Tacoma. Check this out if you're looking to swap out that factory paper element filter and the factory air box for a cold air intake from the aftermarket that's gonna not only increase your performance by up to 10 horsepower, but it's also gonna give you a better throttle response and acceleration and overall, just a better breathing and performing engine.This here is made with the highest quality of materials including a roto-molded polyethylene tubing to streamline that air flow from the intake filter to the throttle body and intake manifold just making sure that you're increasing as much performance as possible, which the same cannot be said for your factory intake, it just has so many kinks. We'll take a closer look at that in just a little bit.The air filter here is arguably gonna be the star child of the kit. This is made from a multi-layer cotton gauze filter. It's a conical filter as opposed to the flat paper element option. And it also has that diamond wire mesh on the outside. Now, the dry filter is going to do a really, really superb job pulling in all of that cold air and keeping out all the dust and air particles and dirt. All that nonsense you don't want getting into your engine bay, this is gonna make sure it filters out.As a matter of fact, K&N has been doing this for so many years, they're one of the most premium options on the market. As a matter of fact, some of the other kits out there in the category actually source K&N's filters for their own kits, that's how premium they are. This dry filter option is gonna require zero maintenance. It is washable and reusable but it's not gonna require any oiling, so you don't have to worry about picking that up.Oiled versus dry has been a debate that's going on in the aftermarket world for a while. And to be honest, they're within a 1% difference of performance. Dry filters are typically better for the guys out there doing a lot of off-roading located in those dry weather climates, seeing a lot more air pollution, a lot more dust and dirt because oil filters can get clogged up a lot more and require more maintenance if you're located in those areas.Oil filters, on the other hand, do filter out a little bit better, they just tend to get a little bit more clogged because of the oil. With all that in mind, this one here is gonna have a 99.9% filter efficiency rate which is gonna do wonders for its performance. This whole entire kit here comes with a velocity stack built in so you're gonna adapt that to your heat shield. The heat shield here is made from a bit of aluminum powder coated in black, great for blocking out all of that excess engine heat but keeping the cold air in.And in order to help that out, we've got weather stripping here included in the kit that we're gonna line this with so it will seal up into the inside of your hood, blocking all of that out for a leak-free finish. It's got a bunch of new stainless steel clamps, all new hardware. We're gonna bolt up our factory MAF sensor to the new tubing here with that pre-drilled hole, no modifications necessary. With all that in mind, you can pick the kit up for right around 300 bucks. And install is gonna get one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Anybody can tackle it in about an hour, maybe two at the absolute most. And I'm gonna show you guys step by step how this gets done with very simple hand tools. So, what do you say we get started?Tools using this install include an impact gun, extension, 8, 10, 12 and 13-millimeter deep sockets, a small Allen key set, 5/32 hex socket, 10 and 15-millimeter wrenches, needle nose pliers, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, and thread tape. All right. Guys, the first step is to disconnect the negative terminal on your battery just to be safe. Grab your 10-millimeter socket. I know I'm using an impact gun, it's a little awkward, little weird positioning here, but we're gonna get this off. It’s gonna loosen up that terminal. Just pop that off and set it down and out of the way.Step number two, using that same 10-millimeter deep socket, remove the two nuts holding on the engine cover. All right. We're gonna set those aside to be reinstalled later but for now, pop that cover out of place. All right. With 10-mil socket, we're gonna loosen up the clamp holding on that factory tubing. Once that's loosened up, you can disconnect the tubing.All right. Now, while we're over here, we're just gonna disconnect our factory mass airflow sensor, just pinch down and pull back on that harness. This set that out of the way. We'll have to remove that later on but we'll do that right at the end of this, once this is all taken care of, we'll pop that off. For now, we're gonna work on getting this tubing out of place. And the next step is gonna be to disconnect the entire tubing and the resonator from the inner fender. There's one bracket on the top end and one on the bottom. Those are 12-millimeter bolts, I'm gonna use an extension with my impact gun to get those off.At this point, with those two bracket bolts out of the way, just pull the entire tubing from the inside of that fender and set it aside. Now, your factory paper element filter is sitting right in this air box. In order to get this off, pop that clip off, one underneath of it, rotate those forward and that will dislodge that. You can pull this whole thing apart.The next step is to reach behind the factory air box and disconnect the fuel pressure regulator hose. Just pull straight back on the nipple, that's this hose right here. I know it's tough to see, it's a tight space there but you have the instructions included in the kit that will point out the location, hopefully, this helps you out a little bit.Next step, disconnect your crankcase breather hose on the front end. Grab a pair of pliers, pinch that retainer clip and pull straight back on that hose to disconnect. You want to leave that pin or retainer clip on there. Grab your 10-millimeter socket and loosen up the clamp holding the factory air box to the throttle body. And before you pop that off the throttle body, remove the last bolt holding that air box in place with your 10-mil. Set that aside.All right. So, we do have one more retainer bolt down here by the MAF harness. We are gonna have to disconnect the clips on the MAF harness tube, but for now, let's get that bolt out of the way. I'm gonna use an extension and my 10-millimeter socket. Get that off and set that aside. Next, we got to disconnect the electrical connectors holding on the factory mass airflow sensor harness, that way, it’s gonna pull straight back on, disconnect. And the same thing down here. This one actually looks like it's zip-tied, so we're gonna get our wire cutters and snip this off.Instead of using wire cutters to just snip that, you can use needle nose pliers to pry that off of its factory spot. All right. At this point, we can get those harnesses out of the way, disconnect this from the throttle body and set the whole thing aside. So, we finally got that factory intake off of our 4-liter Tacoma on the table next to our series 63 option from K&N. Now, as you can see, clear night and day differences between the two. And I know I already talked about all the details for the K&N but seeing this filter side by side with the factory filter just gives you a better perspective on how much of an upgrade this is gonna be. This being at 360-degree conical filter, definitely gonna to be doing a lot better of a job than your factory paper element filter. Now that we can pop out of this housing here and you can see the difference.So, this is your factory filter that comes in a lot of these trucks like Toyota uses, Ford uses, Chevy uses a lot of these paper elements. It's a really common thing from the factory but as you can see, it sucks up a lot of that dirt and it's really not gonna do the greatest job pulling it as much cold air as it can. Being trapped up in this air box, being a lot farther away from the outside cold air, it's just not gonna be there for performance.This factory air box is gonna do really good for blocking out excess engine heat but this is also snug up against the intake manifold. This is gonna be a lot closer to the opening in your fender rather than being closer to the engine itself. So, this is gonna do a lot better pulling in that cold air and it's gonna do a lot better filtering out.Now, this has seen a lot of miles, it's definitely do for some routine maintenance, which is something you can do here being a washable and reusable filter not really saying the same for the factory one. You typically need to pick up a new filter to replace your factory paper element, not the case here. So, the last thing I want to talk about is the tubing. The factory tubing has that flexibility in the kinks you see here. This is gonna cause a lot of air turbulence in that factory tubing.Air turbulence is gonna translate to rob the power. This is gonna translate to a little bit more raw power. This is gonna pull in cold air faster, it's gonna streamline it and it's not going to restrict it. Now with this tubing, we do have to transfer over a factory MAF sensor that's on the top of this factory air box, just a couple of screws that we're gonna pop that off and transfer it over with the gasket included in the kit.So, what I want to do now is toss some of this stuff off to the side. Let's focus on transferring that over for now and then we'll start assembling our heat shield. All right. Now getting this MAF sensor off is gonna be a simple as grabbing a Phillips-head screwdriver and just popping off those two factory screws. It is pretty dirty, so if you need to, you can grab PB Blaster or something and just grease it up and get some of that dirt-free. Keep in mind, these Phillips head screws are not going to be reused. All right. Once you have that, just get that loose and just be real careful with this, you definitely don't want to damage it.Set aside that factory intake and just set it on its face. From here, grab the gasket with the 3M tape on the back. Now, the 3M tape is gonna be facing down, so you just want to peel off that layer and we'll get that applied right around the edge here. All right. Once you have that around the lips, just put pressure all around to make sure that stickiness is gonna apply itself. From there, we'll be able to install it onto our 4-liter. You just want to make sure it's oriented properly and seated all the way down. All right. So, now that you see how the mass air flow sits, you wanna make sure that you’re using the black plastic spacers included in the kit as well as the hex screws.Now that you see that that's oriented this way, what we're gonna do is a basically line up these spacers and drop this back into place. Use these screws to tighten it down by hand. You can always slip them in from the bottom. Grab your Allen key or if you have a hex socket, that will work as well and just get them to thread through and then tighten them down.The next step here is to grab your hose fitting that has the threading on the inside and thread it into the open hole on the side here. Now, it's not required but it is a good idea to use thread tape to make sure that this gets a leak-free seal. You don't want any air leaks coming through there and thread tape will make sure that that does not happen. So, I'm gonna grab a piece of thread tape here, just break off a piece and just wrap it around the threading on fitting. Now, we can thread this on by hand. Now, it can be really easy to cross-thread these. So, you just want to make sure you're getting it nice and tight by hand and then going back with your 15-millimeter socket and tightening it down.All right. Now you just want to get a nice and hand tight. Once you do, grab a 15 socket and give it 2 complete turns. Next up, grab your rubber mounted stud. It's got studs on both sides and just thread one side into the open hole on your intake. Just get that nice and hand tight. From here, we can set the intake tube aside, bring our heat shield into place and we'll start assembling those brackets. The next step here is to install these two brackets onto your heat shield. Now, that bottom lip that ells off is gonna go right underneath of it, and we’re gonna install that on both sides.Grab the bolts included in the kit with a washer on both sides and we're just gonna put that through and then cap it off with a nut on the other side. Just thread that on by hand, do the same thing for the bottom. All right. Now, the other side is gonna get the same bracket. All right. Grab a 10-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter wrench and tighten it down. Once you have that bracket straight, holding up from the outside and just tighten it down from the inside.Next up, we do have one more bracket, this is a smaller one going right over the circle opening. We’re gonna do the same process here, we're gonna take one of the bolts included in the kit, put it through the longer end of this bracket, put a washer on the back side, top it off with a wash nut. Tighten it down with the same tools. Next up here is grab the smaller weather-stripping included in the kit and on the bottom side where the bottom of the brackets are, we're just gonna line at the inside of this. Now, we can flip this over and do the same thing for the top portion. Now for the top, you want to go all the way down the sides as well.All right. At this point, if there is any excess, you can just cut that off with wire cutters. Next up is to assemble our saddle clamp. Now, that's gonna be installed with this black bracket just like this. In order to do that, we're gonna take this hex bolt included in the kit, that's gonna go through the top, seats right into that little cup nicely. Next up is gonna be your funnel spacer, you’re gonna put that in, that hugs nicely as well, flat washer through. Gonna do another washer on the back end of that, and then your nylon lock nut. All right. Grab a 5/32 socket and a 10-millimeter wrench and tighten this down.You might need to get it snug and then reposition that bracket on the bottom and then get it nice and tight. All right. Now, we're back under the hood. We're gonna have to remove one nut on the ABS pump here by our fender on our passenger side. Grab a 12-millimeter socket, I'm using an extension as well. And we’re just gonna pop off the one that's closest to the fender. Make this little more powerful. Here we go.Now, set this aside because this is gonna get reinstalled in just a moment. I'm gonna set it up here on our cowl. All right. At this point, we can take our heat shield all assembled and drop it into place. The bracket we installed on the left side is gonna go over the stud on the ABS pump that we just took the nut off of. Grab that nut. And I know it's a little bit difficult but you can put it on the extension and a 12-millimeter socket and just thread that back on.Now, I know it's a tight space and it's hard to see but once you get that nut on there, just put your socket in there with an extension and tighten it down. Next up, I'm gonna reuse that factory 13-millimeter bolt that's gonna go down here next to our power steering pump. Again, this is a little bit of a tricky situation to see but just feed that down with an extension and socket and just get it threaded. And once you start getting it threaded, grab your impact gun and you'll be able to tighten it down.The last step. Take the bolt and washer included in the kit and bolt it down to the middle bracket that we installed right under that circle opening. The next step here guys is to grab your coupler, install two of the smaller clamps over each end but loosely and insert that over the end of your throttle body. Now, I like to rotate it, so your K&N logo is facing up. You can also rotate that down if you don't want any branding facing upward.I like to tuck the clamps downward, so they're not just, you know, sticking out like a sore thumb. At this point, you can grab an 8-millimeter socket and tighten down the one attaching it to the throttle body. A flat head screwdriver would also work here. All right. Grab the tubing at this point. We're gonna insert the end with the hose fitting into that throttle body opening on the coupler. And make sure it fully seats and it's rotated upward, tighten down that clamp.Now at this point, your factory hose is gonna get reused into this location but it's not meant to bend at this angle. So, what we're gonna have to do is pop the hose off of the valve cover and just reverse it. So, grab your pair of pliers, pinch that retainer clip at the valve and just pop it off. All right. We're gonna flip it around just the other way. We can rotate these pins facing upward, we’re gonna to pinch it and just reconnect to the valve.Now, this end is already bent. Now, if you need any of those pliers, you can do that, if not, you just grab it by hand and just get it to insert over that fitting and pinch it out. We can also at this point grab that MAF sensor harness and plug that in. The next step is to install our saddle bracket. Now, this is gonna hold the bottom of the intake tubing right to the valve cover. We're gonna feed that underneath along with that bracket. And the bracket is gonna install to the pre-threaded hole right here on the side of that valve cover.So, we're gonna bolt that down first and then we're gonna clamp it around our tubing. Take the bolt included in the kit, the 10-millimeter bolt along with a lock washer and a flat washer. I'm gonna thread it on and then I'm gonna show you guys where that is. And go right down by hand as far as you can go. Perfect. That will hold it in position. Before we tighten that down, I want to get a clamp around this. Now that clamp, we are gonna have to take apart just like this. So, loosen it up, take that apart, thread that underneath and around the edges of the saddle bracket. Now, we're gonna come back and connect them and tighten that down a bit.Now, at this point, I'm gonna rotate that clamp downward, making sure that it's still wrapped around the saddle and the tubing. Grab an 8-millimeter socket and tighten down that clamp. Switch over to a 10-millimeter socket and an extension and tighten down the bolt on the valve cover. Perfect. That is gonna be our support bracket making sure that tubing stays in place. All right. Next up, we have to remove that factory fuel pressure hose and we're gonna replace it with pretty much an identical one that's just a lot longer to extend over to our fitting on our tubing.Take the end of that fuel pressure hose and just push straight back to disconnect it. Set that aside, that is not gonna be reinstalled, we're gonna be replacing it with this. So, just pop on the new one over that factory nipple. Extend that over to the fitting on our tubing and pop that all the way back. Next up, we're gonna go to the opposite end of our tubing. Install the coupler here with the smaller end facing the tubing and two clamps over each end. Slide that all the way in right here. You want about half on this side, half on the inside, tighten down the one clamp holding it to the tubing.Grab your filter and put it on the other end. Now that filter does have to get installed with the velocity stack. Now, the velocity stack is gonna go funnel side in. Gonna seat that all the way back into the filter, get that nice and flush against the edges. Rotate the large clamp around and just tighten it down. I like to have them all facing the same side. Perfect. Make sure that is tight on the velocity stack, drop that into place.All right. Once you have that seated, go on with your socket. I think we're gonna need an extension for this one and just tighten down that clamp on the coupler. Perfect. All right. The last step here before we reconnect the negative cable on our battery is to pop our engine cover back on. Snap it onto the back bar, drop it down into place and reuse those factory nuts to tighten it back down. Perfect. Let's reconnect that negative cable and we'll be done. Drop it down, grab your 10-millimeter socket. All right. Now you're good to go. Well, guys. That's gonna wrap up my review and install for the K&N Series 63 AirCharge Cold Air Intake available for the '05 to '11 4-Liter Tacoma. You can pick yours up right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Delivers Horsepower and Torque Gains
      • Better Throttle Response, and Impressive Engine Sound
      • Fitted With a Reusable and Washable Chrome-Topped Filter
      • Uses a Free-Flowing and High-Density Polyethylene Intake Tube
      • Direct-Fit Installation for Your Stock Air Intake System
      • Drive Up to 100,000 Miles Before Servicing is Required
      • Easy Installation
      • Covered by K&N’s 10-Year/Million Mile Limited Warranty
      • Not CARB-Certified
      • Suitable Upgrade for All 2005 to 2011 Toyota Tacoma 4.0L Models


      Significant Power Increase. Upgrade your Toyota Tacoma and get the best performance boost suited for your engine by installing the K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air Intake on your Tacoma. This 63 AirCharger intake is specifically engineered to deliver a less restricted air flow in order to maximize the horsepower and torque gains. With this installed on your Tacoma, you’ll always be capable of breezing through any treacherous off-road trails without a hitch.

      No Tuning Required. The 63 AirCharger Series needs no tuning after installation. Once you’re done with installation, you can already go for a ride and feel the difference right away.

      Reusable, High-Flow Filter. This cold air intake assembly is fitted with a chrome-topped, conical shaped high-flow air filter. With its larger-than-usual design, this filter will allow more airflow into your engine, while adding a bigger capacity to hold and keep dirt.

      Expert and Tough Design. K&N’s 63 AirCharger Series features a durable high-density polyethylene intake tube. This air intake assembly is then reinforced with stainless steel clamps and couplers to make sure that it can hold up to harsh outdoor weather for miles and miles ahead. With its durable construction and design, you can run your Tacoma with this intake assembly for 100,000 miles before any servicing is required.

      Direct-OEM Fit. This intake assembly promises a straightforward installation and can be completed in less than 90 minutes. It uses your Tacoma’s existing mounting points so there’s no need for additional modifications. In addition, all mounting hardware is already supplied in each purchase.

      Backed by a Million-Mile Warranty. The 63 Series AirCharger Cold Air Intake is protected by K&N’s million mile or 10-year warranty, whichever comes first. This warranty will cover for factory flaws found in both material and substandard workmanship. Limitations and exclusions apply. You may refer to the manufacturer’s website to read more about the full warranty policy.

      Not CARB-Certified. This cold air intake assembly does not have a CARB certification. This is not legal for sale and use in California and states adopting their stricter emission standards.

      Application. The K&N Series 63 AirCharger Cold Air is a suitable upgrade for all Toyota Tacoma 4.0L models manufactured from 2005 to 2011.

      Technical Note. The K&N Cold Air Intake is not designed for vehicles equipped with a Body Lift.



      K&N 63-9025

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Hose; 3.0-Inch ID x 2.0-Inch L, Black
      • (1) Intake Tube
      • (1) Rubber Mounted Stud
      • (2) Bolt; M4-.7, B/H/A
      • (1) Gasket; Mass Air Sensor
      • (2) Spacer; Mass Air Sensor
      • (1) NPT; 1.4-Inch x 316-Inch Barb
      • (1) Hose; 4mm x 18-Inch L
      • (4) Hose Clamp #48
      • (1) Saddle Bracket
      • (1) Bolt; 6mm F/H/A
      • (1) Washer; Cup, Black Nylon
      • (5) Bolt; 6mm-1.00 x 16mm
      • (1) Washer; 1/4-Inch Split Lock
      • (12) Washer; 1/4-Inch ID x 5/8-Inch OD, Flat
      • (1) Bracket; “Z”
      • (6) Nut; 6mm Nylock
      • (1) Hose; 3.0-Inch ID to 3.5-Inch ID
      • (1) Hose Clamp #56
      • (1) Edge Trim 48-Inch
      • (1) Edge Trim 17-Inch
      • (1) Heat Shield
      • (2) Bracket; Long “L”
      • (1) Bracket; Short “L”
      • (1) Bolt; 6mm-1.00 x 25mm
      • (1) Spacer; 0.625-Inch OD x 0.250-Inch ID x 0.25-Inch L
      • (2) Bolt; 8mm-1.25 x 16mm
      • (2) Washer; 8mm Wave
      • (2) Washer; 5/16-Inch x 5/8-Inch OD, Flat
      • (1) Adapter #380
      • (1) Hose Clamp #104
      • (1) Air Filter
      • (1) Nut; 8mm Nylock, SS
      • (1) Washer; 8mm, Flat, SS

      Customer Reviews (193)

        Questions & Answers

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        Will It Fit My Tacoma

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