(approx) 30 Minutes
Simple installation for anyone.
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Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com. Today, we're gonna be taking a look at, installing, and Dynoing S&B Cold Air Intake with the Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter that is available for the 2014 to 2016 5.3-liter Silverado 1500 and Sierra 1500. Now, if you're the owner of that gen Silverado or Sierra, you might be interested in swapping out your factory air box for an aftermarket cold air intake that is affordable, does not require a tune, gives you better engine efficiency, performance, throttle response gains, and even a small bump in horsepower and torque. This particular one here does come with an oiled cleanable filter made of eight-ply cotton gauze, which we'll be taking a look at later sitting next to the factory one. The tubing is also ABS plastic with a free-formed molding here to give you an unrestricted airflow to the throttle body and manifold from that intake filter.Now the air box here is also gonna be a huge upgrade over the factory one. It's a little bit bigger. It closes in that filter nice and tight here to keep out the engine heat and has a see-through cover on top with the S&B logo just to make it look a little nicer under the hood. It comes with all new hose fittings and everything you need to get the job done for just about 300 bucks, which like I said, I think, personally, is a very good price for an upgrade. S&B makes filters for a lot of different companies out there that you would probably recognize as a brand name, but S&B's own filter here is a really nice upgrade over stock. Now, installing a cold air intake on your 5.3 Silverado or Sierra is one of the easiest things you can do underneath the hood. So this one I'm giving one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. With very simple hand tools, you can get it done in about 30 minutes.Tools needed for this install are a panel removal tool or a flathead screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, ratchet, extension, 10-millimeter socket, 8-millimeter socket, quarter-inch socket, T15 Torx bit. To kick off the uninstall of our factory air box, the first thing we'll need to do is use a panel removal tool to pop off the top radiator shroud. Now, this is something that you don't particularly need to do. I find it just a little bit easier to work under the hood when this is not in the way and, after all, a little bit later on, we'll have to remove at least the corner piece to get to this bar right here. So, first off, panel removal tool, pop off all the push pin clips holding on your shroud, and then I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to disconnect the negative cable on our battery.So the next step is to pull up on the red tab and remove the harness clip connected to your sensor on your stock air box. Pull the red tab up, pinch it, and remove the harness, and then use a T15 Torx bit and your ratchet to remove the two bolts holding on the sensor itself. All right, the next step here is to grab an 8-millimeter socket with an extension and loosen up the hose clamp down here connecting the hose to the stock air box itself. Once it's loosened up, you can remove the hose by pulling this to the right and popping it out of place. All right, with that hose clamp disconnected and the hose disconnected from the air box itself, it's time to remove this from the engine bay. Now, it might take a little finessing, you might have to wiggle it around some of these hose lines, but it will come out by itself once you have it loosened up. The next step, we're actually gonna move on over to the driver's side of the vehicle in the engine bay. We're gonna disconnect the factory OE hose from the factory OE resonator box. Now, in order to do this, it can be a little tricky on some models here. This gray pin that goes all the way around, you wanna push up from the bottom. That's what disconnects it and allows you to remove the hose altogether.So what we're gonna do is because ours is being a little stubborn, I'm gonna use a pry bar here. I'm gonna push up from the bottom on one hand, stick the pry bar here, and help push this thing out. Once it gets to the edge, you can start pushing and it'll disconnect. All right, so we're gonna remove the factory OE hose from the resonator box on the passenger side now. The only issue with this side is that the gray clip you lift up on in order to release the hose clamp is actually snapped off on our 2016 Silverado. So what we're gonna do is remove the bottom portion that connects to the head. I'm gonna show you how to do that. It's actually a lot simpler of an angle. You'll pinch it with your fingers and pull it straight up. You won't even need to pry it off like our driver's side here.So, even though you're removing the opposite end of the hose, it's a really short hose about this long. It's not gonna make any difference. Once we pop that side of the hose off, we'll be able to completely remove OE resonator box. So here is our factory resonator box. This is the hose that we removed on the driver's side, except this is the duplicate over here on the passenger side. Underneath here, that gray clip is broken so there's nothing to pinch up and push back on. So what we're gonna do is follow the hose back here to the head and we're gonna remove this side instead. Same effect, this will be removed and the whole thing will pop out. What you'll need to do is the same thing you did for the opposite side. I'm gonna pinch my finger back like this and pinch that gray clip in and pull upward on the top. So it's gonna go back here, pinch in on that gray clip, and the whole thing will start to come off. There we go. Now we can pop off the whole resonator box in one piece. All right, now we're gonna grab our 8-millimeter socket and extension with our ratchet and loosen up the clamp holding our resonator box to the throttle body, and then we'll be able to pull this off.At this point, with the factory resonator box out of place, we're actually gonna remove that driver's side crankcase hose from the valve cover here from the bottom portion. What we're gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and pinch in that gray clip, pull up, and pull it off the vehicle. Our final step in the uninstallation process is to use our 10-millimeter socket again, remove the bolts holding on this black crossbar to our frame. There's one up here and there's one on the firewall side. This is gonna make it a lot easier to drop in our air box from the new cold air intake from S&B. So what we're gonna do is remove this crossbar and then we'll start assembling that new air box to put it into our vehicle.We got our factory air box off the car and on the table here, sitting next to our S&B filter, air box, and tubing. You can see very clear, distinct differences between the two. We've got our factory paper element filters sitting in a seriously enclosed air box, padding on one side, very little ventilation for air to actually pull through. This pulls through the fender well and it really just filters through this box and a paper element, pretty cheap filter from the factory into this tubing on its way out through the sensor. Now, that is gonna make its way underneath this resonator box where our tubing sits and connects to our throttle body. As you can see, the S&B option here is pretty wide open. It's got an absolutely massive eight-ply oiled reusable filter here, which I'll talk about in just a second, which has this open top that you can have. Or it even comes with a cover if you wanna put one on top here to keep it shielded in from the heat a little bit more.Now this one is a very, very high-quality rotormolded ABS plastic as well as the plastic ABS tubing. This tubing here offers a much better airflow. It's got a very sleek design here, unrestricted air flow going from the filter itself into your throttle body. This one here is a little more choked up. It's a little less quality, a little less of an airflow here going through. It's a little more restricted. This doesn't really help much either. This is actually gonna restrict a little bit of airflow. And as you can see, that does not transfer over to our new option here. Now, all in all, this is gonna be a huge upgrade. S&B is boasting 16% more airflow, a better airflow, a cleaner air flow to your throttle body and your manifold. That's also gonna boast an S&B power stack filter here. And S&B makes these filters for a lot of other companies that you would very much well know, so this does have a ton of credibility. The eight-ply filter is great at filtering out all the particles and stuff that you don't want getting into the engine bay while pulling in all that cold air from the outside.Now, the cool thing about this particular filter is it is washable, it is reusable. Every couple of thousand miles when you do your routine maintenance, typically with this air box, you do a little bit of cleaning, throw it back on and you would need a new one pretty soon after that. This particular one, every few thousand miles, pop it off very simply by detaching the hose clamp, pull it off, wash it, reoil it, throw it back on. You also have your option of a dry filter. Now, the benefits of an oiled filter is it does actually filter out a little bit more, thanks to that goopy oil that will be inside of that filter here. Whereas a dry filter does pull in a little more air because there isn't as much restriction from oil, but it also pulls it a little bit more particles. Dry filters are typically a little bit better for racing applications. Oiled is the most popular by far for the daily driver, the street truck driver, or the guys out there hitting the track every so often. So, if you're looking for the oiled filter, something that's a lot better than stock, a huge upgrade as far as the filter's concerned, the air box, and the tubing, the S&B option is definitely the way to go.So without further ado, we're gonna assemble a couple of things onto this air box, get things going, and then drop it into our truck. So the first thing we're gonna do is assemble a couple of things onto our S&B air box without the filter in it. Now, there's a couple of weatherstrip seals that we want to include onto a couple of these sides here. Now, each side is a different shape. It's pretty easy to follow along. You can use a couple of these to pop them in place. This one here has openings here that are gonna go around this lip, so I'm gonna install this to the side of our air box. All right, from here, we wanna rotate it to the back. We're gonna install this whole plug onto this open square. All right, push that in just like a seal and plug. So we have our air box assembled here. All we have to do now is drop it into place. Now, the directions will tell you from S&B that if you have the HID-equipped truck, then you'll have to remove your coolant reservoir in order to get this into place. I find that actually neither are completely necessary. Your factory air box isn't secured and bolted down, and also if you do have HID lights and you find it difficult, you can remove this. I particularly don't find it a little necessary, we actually can get this to fit.So what we're gonna do is take our air box. The S&B logo here with the lip on the bottom is actually gonna be the forward-facing option. This side here that's got this little dip is gonna be on the side of your passenger where the firewall is. What we're gonna do is slide this into place. Again, you might have to finesse it around a little bit to make it fit, drop it in. And you wanna rotate it to make sure it's completely straight. Once it's dropped in there, check the hole to make sure it lines up with the hole in your firewall and you'll be good to go. At this point, we're gonna drop in our new S&B filter into the air box here. Now, it does have a lip around this rubber grommet. That's actually gonna snap it into place so it doesn't move around in the air box. So we're gonna drop it in and get it to snap in.All right, so we're back on the table here to assemble our tubing. Now, there's a couple of things we have to do to this, couplers on both sides with clamps as well as the stainless steel mass air flow sensor plate, and then the mass air flow sensor itself. All right, so the first thing we're gonna do is take care of our mass air flow sensor. Now, you are given a gasket, a stainless steel plate for security, and then we're gonna use our stock mass air flow sensor. First thing we're gonna do is take our gasket and we're gonna place that underneath our steel insert. Now, the protruded screws here are gonna be facing up, not the flat side. Flat side's facing down on top of that gasket. And we'll put that gasket into place. Now, in the bag with the gasket, you're given these longer screws that'll go straight through the pre-drilled holes. We're gonna secure these to the tubing itself using our Phillips head screwdriver.You wanna make sure you tighten these all the way down so that there aren't any air leaks. All right, with that secured, we can now take our mass air flow sensor and slide it through the slot here, making sure that our bolt holes are lined up with the holes in the stainless steel plate. All right, and use our shorter screws to secure that to the plate. I'm gonna go back and tighten those down so there are no air leaks. All right, the next step after the mass air flow sensor is complete is to work on the coupler that's gonna go on our throttle body side. Now, there are two different couples you can use. One of them is gonna be the correct one for our engine size. The other one is for a different platform, the Silverado. So, as you'll see, there's a little bit of a code at the top of each of the coupler around the ring. AI1665C-00 is the one we're using. If you hold it up side by side from the side angle, the one that we're using has a little bit more of a bottleneck, which is gonna be the 665C-00. We're gonna go ahead and put that on the engine side of our tubing.Once we have the appropriate coupler on the engine side where the throttle body's at, we're gonna use two different clamps to go over this coupler. Now, there's two different sizes. There's a size 64 and a size 72. Size 72 is a little bit bigger, so it's gonna go over this larger lip. Size 64 is gonna go on the front lip, attaching it to the throttle body. So we're gonna grab size 72, and if you're unsure of which is which, next to where you actually tighten things down, it's stamped in the materials size 72. The opposite has size 64. So, size 72, we're gonna go ahead and slip on over top here. Now, the larger size is actually gonna tighten the coupler to the tubing. The size 64 will tighten the coupler to the throttle body. So we've got this down here and we wanna tighten it to the tubing. Grab our 8-millimeter socket and tighten this one down.So our next step here and our final step in the assembly line is to take our size 64 coupler, place it over the top portion of this bottleneck coupler. This is gonna be the part that tightens it down to the throttle body. Now, of coure, you wanna leave it loose enough that you make room for adjustment to make it a little easier in the engine bay to tighten down. You don't want this bolt here on the clamp to be on the bottom, making it a little more difficult to tighten down. So we wanna, you know, keep it loose enough to rotate and still have it secured to the coupler here for now, and then we're gonna place this in our engine bay and tighten it down to the throttle body. All right, we're closing in on the home stretch for the install here. We're gonna use our S&B tubing with all the couplers attached to it properly to install it into our filter and onto the throttle body here. Now, you'll notice a huge difference in space from the stock option over to our new S&B. There isn't that top resonator box. We're freeing up a ton of room here, so all we're gonna do is install this to both sides, tighten it down, and then we'll finish it up with the clamps and sensors.All right, step number one is to take the clamp and feed it over the coupler on the end of your filter. Next up, take your tubing. You can lift up some of these hoses and set it into place inside the coupler on your filter. And get that far into place along the molded edge there, rotate it toward your throttle body, and do the same thing over here to the engine. All right, so you're gonna attach this side with the dual clamps and the bigger coupler with the bottleneck onto your throttle body. There's gonna be a little resistance to get it on, but you wanna make sure that it's as tight as possible and as far back as possible. There we go. Once it's in place, can rotate your clamp how you want to access that bolt. Grab your 8-millimeter socket, tighten down the clamp on the throttle body, and then back on the filter.Next up, we're gonna replace our factory hoses that go to our new cold air intake with the ones included in the kit from S&B also with these baby hose clamps. Now, the one end is gonna, obviously, go to your heads. The other end is gonna go to your tubing. Now, you're gonna wanna slide the clamp over top of each end of the hose before you do that. So what we're gonna do is we've got the clamp installed on one end. This is gonna go down to the heads. You wanna push that down and snap it into place. You might have to do a little twisting to finesse it all the way down here. Once you do, you'll be able to feed the clamp down to the edge here and we'll tighten that down in just a second. What we're gonna do is you're gonna bend the hose. Now, when you bend the hose back down to your tubing, you're gonna wanna slide another clamp over top of it.All right, now we can slide this over our tubing. All right, to tighten down these hose clamps, we're actually gonna need to use a quarter-inch socket here for our ratchet. I got my extension down here to get the one on the head. Tighten down these hose clamps then we're gonna repeat this for the opposite side. All right, we're gonna do the same thing here on our driver's side. Slide our hose clamp over top, pop this onto our header. Slide our hose clamp onto the other side as well and pop that onto our tubing. Take our quarter-inch socket and tighten down the clamps.Now the last step in our installation here is to replace our harness here for our mass air flow sensor. All we're gonna have to do is slide some of these hoses back, clip this in, push down on the red tab, and it locks itself in place. All right, the final step of the install is to throw the cover on top of the S&B air box. Now, it's specifically shaped to fit only in one section. There's pre-drilled and pre-threaded holes in the air box itself. We're gonna take our little rubber spacers, place one over top of our Phillips head screw, and tighten these down.So, the final two steps of our installation is to get this support bar back into place. The hooked end is gonna go underneath your firewall here where that pre-drilled hole is and the flat, rectangular end is gonna go back onto your support beam here. Grab your 10-millimeter bolts, tighten these down, and then the last thing will just be put the radiator shroud back in place with all the push pin clips. Cool.All right, guys, with the negative cable as the last step going back on our battery, that's gonna wrap up my review and install for the S&B Cold Air Intake with the Oiled Cleanable Filter, available for the 2014 to 2016 5.3 Silverado and Sierra 1500. You can find the S&B Cold Air Intake with the Oiled Cleanable Cotton Filter right here at americantrucks.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Specs & Installation
Sizing. Teraflex's rear shock absorber is a nitrogen charged, twin tube design that works on Jeeps with 3 to 4 inches of lift.
Properties. Teraflex designed this VSS gas shock for extended durability and extreme toughness in action. You can rely on this shock to smooth out jolts and vibration in even the harshest cross country conditions. The twin tube design and tough triple-chromed piston rod provide a long, problem free working life. It has a 1 and 3/8 inch bore.
Notable Features. Teraflex's shocks are gas charged to minimize shock fade. They are purpose built for Wranglers and include high quality rubber bushings. Installation is exceptionally easy, so you can return to the trails as soon as possible.
Application. This shock fits 2007-2018 JK Wranglers with a 3 inch to 4 inch lift.
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
October 31, 2018
Good quality for the money
Easy to install, good quality and the right price, what's not to like!Helpful (5)
September 17, 2018
Super easy install, took longer to take out old shocksHelpful (5)
July 26, 2018
I shopped around for rear shocks and I could not find a better deal. And further more, my Jeep rides better than it ever has!! Alrex McVayHelpful (6)
March 24, 2018
Best bang for buck
Took about an hour to install on my 2013 jku. Much much much better ride than my old rough country shocks. Shipping was promot would recommend to anyone.Helpful (6)
December 08, 2017
TeraFlex VSS shocks
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September 29, 2017
Excellent product, performs as advertised. Shipping was prompt and I installed them in my driveway in about 20 minutes.Helpful (7)
September 12, 2017
I received the shocks 4 days after I ordered them. After 2 hours in the garage I couldn't believe how smooth the ride was. The shocks made a huge difference in the ride of my Jeep.Helpful (7)
August 24, 2017
Nice Smooth ride for a Jeep
Purchased these Shocks for my 2010 Wrangler Unlimited. They went right into place with a little bit of help just to line up the bolt holes on the lower brackets. The ride of these shocks are well worth the money, a vast improvement from the old shocks. Whether on a trail or driving down the road I would certainly recommend these to anyone looking for a set of shocks for there Jeep.Helpful (7)
August 03, 2017
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June 15, 2017
"Built" my own lift and used these shocks. I love them !Helpful (8)
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(approx) 30 Minutes
Simple installation for anyone.