(approx) 6 Hours
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Hey, guys. So today, I'm here with the Teraflex 2.5-inch Sport ST2 Suspension Lift with the 3.3 Adjustable Piggyback Falcon Shocks, fitting all 2018 and newer four-door JL Wranglers. So, lifting your Wrangler can offer you a number of different benefits as far as street comfort and trail performance go. And this one by Teraflex is gonna do just that by giving you that perfect blend of street and trail driving in comfort as well as that performance aspect.So this is gonna feature those 3.3 Falcon adjustable shocks, which have 24 settings. So you can adjust them to give you a more comfortable ride on the street or a stiffer ride on the street if you want less body roll and a more comfortable or stiffer ride on the trail. Whatever you prefer, you can adjust these shocks with the flip of a switch. You do get 24 settings. You have three major settings and eight minor settings within those three settings. So you can really fine-tune these to whatever you want, however you want your Jeep to ride. This is going to allow that to happen. So, not only does this lift kit come with some pretty incredible parts to begin with, this also comes with everything that you need in order to get this bolted up to fix all that geometry that you threw off, to begin with, and to gain at that comfortable ride that you're used to out of your JL. Now, with that, this comes with the Sport ST2 front control arms the, front lower control arms, and that's going to adjust that caster. So, after you bolt this up, you're not gonna need a caster alignment. And that's something that I really like about this lift kit. Now, as far as tires go, guys, this is going to fit a 33, a 35, and a 37. It really depends on the setup and how you're looking to set up your ride. Now, 33s are going to fit without any bump stop extensions on the Sport, the Sahara, and the Rubicon since they are all different. And those are going to look a little small inside the wheel well. However, you do get a lot of room to work with with a 33-inch tire. Now, 35s all around the board are going to be the most preferred size out of this. You do have to add some bump stop extensions, depending on whether you have the Sport or the Sahara or the Rubicon. So you do have to keep an eye on that. But that's gonna give you a decent amount of room inside that wheel well. It's still gonna fit inside that wheel well very nicely and fill it out pretty nicely. However, you're not going to stack the wheel well. So you're still getting that performance out of that. Now, as far 37s, since the Rubicon has a raised fender, those are gonna fit very well on the Rubicon and a little bit tighter on the Sport and the Sahara models. However, you still can fit them on. You're not gonna have the most room to work with, but it is still doable. And Teraflex does provide you with the bump stop extensions and all the resources that you need in order to bolt up 37s if you'd like to. However, all across the board, again, guys, a 35-inch tire is going to be your best bet.Now, as far as price goes, this is gonna be pretty pricey, as you can probably assume considering all of the bells and whistles that this kit has to offer. And then I'll tell you guys a little bit more about in a couple of minutes. But this is gonna be roughly $2,500. Now, this is definitely gonna be for somebody who wants to invest in quality parts that are going to outperform a lot of lift kits but that's also going to last a very long time. Now, this is going to include everything that you need, like I said before, and that's usually the rule of thumb with lift kits. So, the more parts that you get in the lift kit, the more expensive it's usually gonna be and vice versa. So, those barebone lift kits are gonna be more cost effective because they don't come with really everything that you need. Usually, you have to build off of those. So this is going to be a little bit more expensive for that reason, and it's just going to be incredibly designed. These are fully adjustable shocks. They are going to offer you all that performance that you may be looking for. So you do get that comfortability aspect as well. Overall, this is a very impressive and capable lift kit. And if you're looking to invest in a quality lift kit that's gonna last you a long time and do exactly what you want it to do, this is gonna be it.So install is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, probably taking you about six hours to get done. If they're looking to do this in your driveway, it's probably doable. You will need a couple of basic hand tools...a lot of basic hand tools, actually, but I'll walk you through it step by step. So, speaking of that install, let's jump into it now.The tools that I use for my install were an impact wrench, a drill, a box cutter, a 1/2 inch drill bit and a 3/16 inch drill bit, a standard and metric set of deep sockets and shallow sockets, a trim removal tool, a set of pry bars, a 5-inch extension, a breaker bar, an 8-millimeter, 6-millimeter, 5/32 inch, and 1/4 inch Allen key, a step bit, the provided wrench by Teraflex, a flat head screwdriver, a marker, a center punch, a standard, and metric set of open-ended or box wrenches, a pair of vise grips, a pair of snips, an adjustable wrench, pair of needle nose pliers, safety glasses, 1/2-inch drive, and 3/8 inch drive ratchet, and a cutoff wheel.So the first couple steps of this installs, obviously get the Jeep up in the air and get those wheels and tires off. I use a 22-millimeter deep socket for those stock lug nuts. So, whether you're on the ground on a jack with jack stands or you're up on a lift like we are with two pole jacks, we do wanna support that front axle first. So I just like lift the pole jack up to get it underneath there, fit it on down.So next thing I wanna do is get this factory splash guard out of the way, open up some room to work with. So it's gonna consist of the eight pop clips that are holding in the front and the two bolts down at the bottom. I'm gonna start with the pop clip with the trim removal tool. So let me get those out of there. On the Sahara and the Rubicon bumpers, they are pretty tricky because you have the front bumper cover here, and there's only a small hole. But on the Sport, they are pretty easy to get out. So in the back here, we'll have two bolts. I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter socket and remove those. I wanted to get those clips out of the way at the front, so we can hold this so it doesn't fall on us. So there's one. Then we can grab the other, making sure that we have a hand on our splash guard here. All right. Really wiggle that one out. So, I wanna get this factory skid plate or crash bar out of the way as well just so we don't hook our head on it while we're working on our suspension. So I wanna take a 16-millimeter socket and my impact driver just to take that off. So after those two bolts are out, all we're gonna do is just slide this up and get this out of the way. So next step is to remove our sway bar end links. I'm gonna start with this bottom bolt using an 18-millimeter deep socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. So after that one's off, we can move to the top here. I may have to go and remove the bolt on the other side just so we can access that Allen key hole in the stud here. So let's move over to the other side and then we'll come back. So moving on to the other side, I am gonna remove this lower bolt as well. I'm gonna use the same 18-millimeter deep socket, but I'm using a hand ratchet just because we don't have a lot of room here. Also, we won't need that wrench because there is a flag nut on our track bar bracket.So we got that flag nut. Now, we just need to remove this lower bolt, and then we can move on to the top stud here. I'm just gonna get this bolt out. We can move our sway bar down, give us a little bit more room to work with. So now we can remove the nut on the stud on the upper part of our sway bar end link. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter wrench and then a 6-millimeter Allen key to keep that stud still. You also may wanna hit this with a little bit of PB B'laster just to crack that free. So we can do the same thing for the other side. You wanna make sure that that wrench is on there first. Then we can take our Allen key, put that inside the stud, and just push that off. This is gonna be difficult just because you have your tie rod and your drag link in the way. Also, you have that upper track bar bracket on the frame side in the way, so just be patient. It's getting off by hand. Yeah. So we can get these boys out of the way. So our next step is to remove our axle side track bar bolt. This is just going to allow us to drop our axle as low as we need to go to get our springs out. So right now I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket as well as a breaker bar just to crack that free. I can't fit my impact or my extension through here because the drag link and the tie rod are massive. So, what I'm gonna do is just take this and break this free. Then we're gonna use a hand drive ratchet to go ahead and get the rest of it off. So, that is good enough. And we can take that same 21-millimeter socket, half-inch drive ratchet. Go ahead and just get the rest. Now, there's a flag nut on the other side, so you don't want to worry about a wrench or anything in here. So, after this is out, you'll see the axle shift. This is responsible. Your track bar is responsible for centering that axle underneath your Jeep. So, if you see a shift or feel a shift when you do this, it's totally normal. There goes that flag nut. So what I'm gonna do is take that 18-millimeter wrench that I used before for our sway bar end links, put that around the threads so I can put pressure on it. I'm gonna pry back on our steering stabilizer here. And that will help us move it out. There we go.So what we're gonna do next after we dealt with our track bar is move on to our shocks. Now, I'm gonna start with our lower shock bolt using an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. Now, to get that bolt out, you might have to adjust the axle height. So I'm just going to compress the axle just a little bit. As you can tell, that loosen that up, and we can pull that bolt out. So the beautiful thing about JLs in comparison to JKs is that you have this bolt here, which is threaded into a capture, the nut on the other side of our shock tower. So we don't have to deal with the stud. All you need is an 18-millimeter socket. We can fold this liner back a little bit just to get that out of the way, and we can go ahead and zip that off. Now, we can pull this shock out. Then we can do the same thing on the other side. So, although they made it very easy to get the bolt out, this liner is in the way. So what I'm gonna do is just take a box cutter, you can take scissors or any cutting tool, and just outline this here. I just wanna get this plastic out of the way.So our next step is to work on our brake lines. Now, what we wanna do is take this bracket off and completely discard it. This is attached to our control arm here, our lower front control arm. We are replacing these. So we wanna get this bracket off and out of the way, so we have to get it off of our soft line here. So, first, we're going to just undo our ABS line. We're just gonna pop it out of those mounts, make sure that that is out of the way, so when we cut a notch in this bracket, our ABS line is preserved. So we don't wanna cut that. That's very important that we don't do that. So, what I'm gonna just do is tuck this up and out of the way and just untangle it in that quill. For now, we just wanna make sure that that's out of the way. So with your brake line bracket still mounted to the control arm, what I'm gonna do is just grab a pair of vise grips and pull this up. I wanna bend it up, so we get a good cutting angle. We don't need to worry about this bracket so much. So what I wanna do, I just bend this bracket up and out of the way, making sure that this is in a good spot, so we can make a notch in the top of the bracket. Now, we don't want to cut through all the way. We wanna preserve that soft line. We don't wanna cut into that soft line. We're just making a notch. So, we can pretty much damage the structural integrity of this bracket and peel up on it. You're not gonna be able to peel up on it if you don't make a notch in it or if you don't heat it up just because this is very rigid. So, I'm gonna grab my cutoff wheel, we're gonna make a slight notch, and then we'll take the vise grips, and we'll pry it back. You wanna keep one hand as stiff as possible. All right. So, we have a pretty decent notch in it. We might have to just touch it up. But now I'm just going to take my vice grips, get a good grip on it, so the cutoff wheel while also creating a notch warmed up that metal. So we can unhook that, get that out of there. So, next step is just to remove this bracket off of our control arm. You honestly don't have to do this. I just want to get this out of the way, so when we remove our control arm, this isn't snagging on anything. So I'm using a 15-millimeter socket and impact. So what we're gonna do is lower down our axle. I have a trim removal tool in hand. There are a couple of lines that are connected by clips, and they're on the axle as well as on the frame. So we just wanna keep an eye on them. If we do have to remove them, we will. It just depends on what we have to remove with how low we need to get our axle. I'm gonna start lowering and keep an eye on those. Like this one over here is getting a little taut. It's not there yet, but we'll most likely have to disconnect that. I'm just gonna disconnect that now, trim removal tool. Just pry that off like any other clip. All right. That's free.So, up on the frame here as well as down on our axle, I'm just gonna remove two more pins or clips. So, there is a clip on the frame that's holding this harness here. As you can tell, it's a little taut. What I'm gonna do is just get that disconnected. And we'll connect all these at a later time once our suspension is kind of buttoned up. We just wanna make sure that there's enough room to work with.There's also one down on the axle here. I'm just going to do that one as well. I'm just gonna disconnect the one down here on our axle mount. And that broke, but that's okay. We probably won't be disconnecting that one in the future, anyway. So, on the driver's side, there's also two up here on the frame as well that I wanna remove. Again, we can connect these again. I just wanna make sure that these are all disconnected, so we don't harm them. So you also have your breather tube here that's connected to the brake line bracket on the driver's side, your left side, that's also connected to your frame. Just so this is not max out, we're not damaging our breather tube, I'm just going to remove that from that brake line bracket as well using that same trim removal tool. That gives us enough slack. We can actually move the breather tube down off of that mount here, so we can continue to lower our axle. I think that's good for now. Now, that our axle is low enough, as you can tell, we have all of this room between the top of our spring perch and our spring. We can go ahead and pop out the spring. We also need that isolator. So, make sure that either stays there, or we could take it off and we just make sure we put it in a safe spot. So after we get our spring out, what we're also doing is replacing our bump stops here. So I am just going to wiggle our factory one out. It is captured in there. So, all you have to do is just wiggle it out. It's not that easy, but it will come out eventually. Same thing for the other side, guys. You like pull down and twist and kind of wiggle it back into us. It'll pop right out.So our last step for up front is to remove our lower control arms. So what I'm gonna do is use a 21-millimeter socket and an adjustable wrench to remove this lower bolt. Then we can head to the upper bolt. So once you have the nut off of the back, you can either pull it down or push up wherever the bolt needs to go. Then you can take out that bolt. So we're gonna do the same thing with the upper mount. It's gonna be that same 21-millimeter socket on the bolt head side and your adjustable wrench on the nut side. I also have my shoulder just resting on this control arm, because once I loosen this up, the bushing's not gonna be holding it in place anymore, so it will swing down. I just have my shoulder here to support it. So, see how my shoulder is supporting that with the hang for a sec. Now my hands are free. You can slide that out.So, before we jump into the install with this new Teraflex lift, I do wanna sit these components on the table next to your factory components to tell you, guys a little bit more information about them and overall what you're getting out of this new lift kit in comparison to those shock parts. Now, starting off with your springs, this is what's gonna give their height. These are also tuned for performance. But this is where you're gonna get that two and a half inch lift out of this kit. Now, you also are getting all the components that you need in order to accommodate for that. You are getting longer sway bar end links for the front and the rear, you're getting longer bump stops, and you're also getting some different bracket rear, like a track bar relocation bracket for that rear track bar to re-center that axle after you've thrown off all of those angles.So not only are these parts just going to accommodate for that extra lift height and those thrown off angles, but they also are gonna be upgraded performance parts. So they are going to perform a lot better for the abuse that you're gonna give them out on the trail or even daily driving. And they also are going to have a longer lifespan. They are going to hold up and take that abuse for a very long time.Now, those sway bar end links, those are going to obviously be longer. But you also are getting an upgraded design with these. You do get c-clips on all three corners of them for the stud at the end as well as that bushing down at the other end. And that's just going to help out with that longevity. As you can see, even though this is a brand new JL, this is smashed, and the grease is starting to pop out. And that's what these are going to prevent. They are going to hold up a little bit longer.Now, the bread-and-butter out of this lift kit is gonna be these control arms as well as these shocks. And I'll get to the shocks in a minute. But these control arms are going to have a pre-caster alignment set. So you don't need an alignment after you lift your Wrangler. And they still are going to be a factory style bushing, but they're gonna give you free range in motion and free movement, unlike your factory components. These are not only just going to perform a lot better, but they also are going to be a lot more durable and lasts a long time. So moving on to the shocks, your factory shock is a twin tube hydraulic style shock. So, that's gonna be a standard design out of most factory vehicles. And that's perfect for that daily driver or someone who's not working the shock really hard. Now, that is not going to be the best design for somebody who's looking to do those tough trails, they're looking to get the most performance out of their shocks because it will fade fast if you do that kind of driving on the shocks. They are gonna be a steel body, so they're not gonna disperse heat as well. They may lead to shock fade or cavitation, which is foaming inside the shock when they're worked really hard. So these aren't going to be the most high-performing shocks. Now, on the other hand, this Falcon 3.3 piggyback adjustable shock is going to be the exact opposite. So, as you can tell, this is a much larger shock body. This is going to have more oil. It's going to increase that valving, and it's also going to be a high-performance shock.So starting off with the construction of the shock, the shock body is gonna be a 6061-T6 aluminum, which that aluminum is going to be hardened, so it will hold up to any abuse that you throw at it. But what it's also gonna do is help out with that heat dispersion, keeping that oil and that shock cooler to make sure that it lasts longer and it performs better.Now, you're also getting a three-quarter inch shaft, which is one of the largest shock body and shaft setups that is really on the market right now. And that is overall just going to help it resist any damage while you're out on the trail. If you do take a hit to these, they are gonna be able to take it. It is hardened aluminum, and it's just overall going to be an incredibly tough setup.So, what you're also getting with this is that reservoir. So, in comparison to your factory shock, obviously, you're not getting a reservoir with that. A reservoir is just going to increase that valving. But where Falcon and Teraflex step that up is that this is feed-backed or directly mounted to that shock body. So, in comparison to some other reservoir shocks in the market, most of them you'll see with a braided line. And that's going to transfer that oil from your shock body into your reservoir to increase that valving. But with this, you have a large hole in the middle here that's gonna pass through that oil directly from the reservoir to the shock body and vice-versa, which is going to let up on some of that restriction, though it's gonna be way less restrictive than a steel braided line. Also, a line can have leaking, and it can get damaged by rubbing up on other parts underneath your Wrangler while it's mounted there. So, this shock eliminates all of that.So not only are you getting the benefits of the incredibly tough body or the piggyback design, what you're also getting out of this is full adjustability. So you have a larger knob down at the bottom with three preset settings. It's going to be soft, medium, and firm. So, all you have to do is flip the knob one way, and you can completely change your dampening.Now, you also have a smaller knob in the middle here. This is going to have eight different setting. So, if you're on medium, you can adjust the softness or the firmness within that preset settings. So you can really adjust these shocks to whatever dampening that you want them to. However you're driving that day, you can adjust your shocks to that. So, if you wanna firm them up while you're on tougher trail, if you're rock crawling, if you're doing any bumps at fast speeds, you want a stiffer shock, that is there for you, or you're just looking to take your Jeep home from the trail and you're on the street, and you want a softer and more comfortable setting, that is completely adjustable there.And lastly, because these are such a large design, this is such a large shock body, what Teraflex did is offset all the mounting points to make sure that they fit up with no modification, which I do really like. Teraflex really did their homework on this. And this overall creates a very functional kit. Now, enough about this two side by side. Let's go bolt up our new lift kit. So we're gonna pick up where we left off and install our control arms. You wanna make sure that the label is readable, and that's gonna be facing the rear of the Wrangler. And this bend is gonna be facing inside. And we can install it into that upper mount. We're gonna spin on the nut there. Now, we're not going to tighten it down. I'll snug it up once we get the bottom installed. But we wanna make sure that the Jeep is on its own weight before we tighten those down to make sure that the axle is sitting properly. We can move down to the bottom.So we're gonna bolt on this lower part of our lower control arm here. I have somebody prying on the axle, pulling it towards the front of the Jeep. Just because these are longer, they're not gonna line up right away. You do have to adjust the axle and where it sits. So, go ahead. A little more. There you go. Now, we can thread the nut on the back, and then we can do the same thing to the other side. So like I said, guys, we're not gonna tighten these down, but I want to snug them up just so these bolts aren't pulling in around. So, I have my 21-millimeter socket, my adjustable wrench on the other side. I just switched over to a hand ratchet just because I can better judge the tightness with this. So what we're gonna do next is press in our bump stops. Now, it's really difficult to just press them in by hand. So what I like to do is grab a couple blocks of wood, put that on the spring perch, compress our axle, and press this into place. So, I just have my pole jack all the way up. What I'm gonna do is just keep on bringing that up. So that's met there. Let me just go adjust it on the other side, making sure that our axle is pretty even, and we can press this into place. I also put a little bit of WD-40 just as a lubricant to help that slide in a little bit, also making sure that the Falcon assemble is out. There we go. Now, we can do the same thing on the other side.So, after we have our new bump stops in, we do need to install our spring, but we also need to install bump stop extensions. Now, this is gonna depend on what trim you have. You have the JL Rubicon, the Sport, or the Sahara, as well as the size tires that you're looking to run. So, for a JL Rubicon with the higher fender flare, if you are planning on running a 35-inch tire, you just are going to run the standard 2-inch bump stop. Now, if you have the Rubicon with that higher flare again, but you're looking to plan or you're looking to run 37-inch tires, that's what we're gonna do on this lift kit. We are going to add a half inch spacer down at the bottom.Now, you're gonna get multiples of these. So, for the JL Sport or the Sahara, to avoid tire defender contact, if you are gonna run a 35-inch tire, you'll need two spacers underneath that 2-inch bump stop. So you're gonna have a 3-inch bump stop in the front. And if you're looking to run 37s on a Sport or a Sahara, you will need three spacers. So you're gonna need 3.5 inch bump stop in the front. I'll explain what we're gonna do in the rear. But for this, we are going to add a 2.5 inch bump stop to our front here because we will be running 37-inch tires with this Rubicon, so making sure that you have that isolator on top of there on top of the spring. We can go ahead and install that spring, making sure that those pins line up.So now that the pins on that isolator are in place, we can wiggle the spring into place. So what you can do once you have it in place is twist it until that pigtail sits flush in that retainer down at the bottom. So while we're still here, what I wanna do is secure this bump stop extension down. You're gonna get a longer bolt like this. It's gonna have a hex at the top. We're gonna use a six-millimeter Allen key to tighten that down in just a second. What I'm gonna do is just drop that through. It's gonna go through the spring perch. You can see it on the other side. So, on the JK, what you usually have to do is just drill out that spring...drill out a hole in the spring perch, but the JL has a hole there. And then you can grab the flange nut and your nifty tool by Teraflex and screw that in. I'm actually gonna push that up just so I can thread that nut into a bolt. So that's threaded in. Now, we can grab a six-millimeter Allen key and a ratchet and tighten that down. Now, this bolt is long enough for those JL owners who have a Sport or a Sahara who wanna run 37s. You'll be able to stack all three of those additional spacers onto that two-inch spacer. This bolt will accommodate for all those.So what these bump stop and bump stop extensions do is basically limit your travel, so your fender and your tire don't meet once your axle is at full compression. So, these bump stop extensions specs are basically for those factory fender flares. So, if you go to flat flares, you're just going to have to measure your compression and measure where you need to limit that. So it doesn't hit the top of your flare. All right. So that's tightened down. We can do the same thing on the other side, guys.Just like last time, we're gonna slide that isolator on first, making sure that those pins are lined up. As you can tell, you can see that the bump stop's kind of touching the spring here. Once the axle is compressed, that's not gonna happen. It's just once you lower the axle, it kind of pulls back into the Jeep. So, just make sure that that pigtail in front here is sitting correctly in that isolator. So if you have to decrease the compression, you're gonna lift up and shift it. So, just to free up a little bit of space so we can access the bottom of that bolt, we're gonna take out this brake line bracket. It's for your soft line as well as your ABS here. So I have a 10-millimeter socket and just a hand ratchet, and we're just going to unthread that bolt. And after that bolt is removed, this is wedged into this bottom spring perch here. We can just wiggle this bracket out and get it out of the way, and then we'll bolt it right back up after we have our bump stop extensions bolted up. Now, that can move out of the way like this for a second. Now, we can bolt up and secure down our bump stop extensions since we have a little bit of room now. Then we're gonna take our six-millimeter Allen key, tighten that down. So now we can just re-bolt these back up while we're here. That back tab is going to go into that spring perch. This side is going to line up here, just thread that bolt back in. Make sure to hook our ABS line back on to our bracket here. So once that is hand-tight, we can tighten that down with our 10-millimeter socket. Now we need to make sure to hook that ABS line back on to this little bracket, and then we're good to go.So, like I showed you guys before, I cut this inner liner just because I wanted to make enough room to get that bolt out of our factory shock. But since we have a large piggyback reservoir, it's gonna hit that inner fender liner. So what we have to do is just trim it back a little bit. So what I'm gonna do is take a box cutter and just start from this inner edge and just pull forward. So, there is insulation behind here, which makes it difficult. This one was not difficult at all just because it's thin plastic, but we have an aluminum, so just be careful. I'm just gonna bring it down. And we'll clean it up. We just wanna make sure that this part is off. First, get that out of there. Right now I'm just test fitting this shock in here. Obviously, we still need to cut away. So, what I'm gonna do is just make a mark. So it's gonna sit. So this is our shock body. Where the shock body should line up, that's where our reservoir's gonna sit. So I'm just gonna make an outline of where I need to make the cut. Guys, this isn't perfect, but it doesn't have to be. All right. So, I'm gonna take this out. So what we can do now is bolt up our shock. Now, we're on the passenger side, so there is gonna be a label on the top of your shock body right above your adjustable knob. It's gonna say one. So one is gonna be your passenger side, two is gonna your driver side. They are corner specific. And you also wanna make sure that this bottom part, this offset. So the larger part is going to be facing forward towards your axle. So now with the factory bolt, I'm gonna send that on through and drill that into the other side. So, since that's threaded on the other side, I am going to tighten that down with an 18-millimeter socket, and then we can move on to the lower bolt.So what we can do now is install our factory bolt. If you do have to tinker with the height of the axle, that's okay. So we can thread it on the nut on the other side. And then once that's on there, we can take our 18-millimeter socket and wrench, tighten that up. Now, we can go to the other side. So, I kind of made an outline, but we're just gonna do the same thing that we've done on the other side. For this side, we are on the driver side now. So I'm just gonna start by cutting away. Now, we can move on to bolting up our sway bar end links. Now, these are gonna be the shorter pair out of the two pairs that you get with this Teraflex lift kit. So we're going to get that top stud in a place right on the provided hardware. It's gonna be a nylon lock nut. So now that we have the sway bar end link stud in place with that nylon lock nut threaded on, we can take a quarter inch Allen socket or an Allen key and a 19-millimeter or 3/4 inch wrench. And we can go ahead and tighten that down. So once that's tight, we can move this up and get it lined up with that bottom mount. After that's on there, we can tighten that down with an 18-millimeter wrench and socket. We do the same thing on the other side. You wanna get that stud lined up first.Once you get that bottom hole lined up, we're gonna take our factory hardware, a flag nut on the other side, tighten that down. You wanna make sure that that flag nut's on there and out of the way. So, now that we have that threaded into that flag nut on the other side, I'm taking an 18-millimeter socket. We're gonna tighten that down.So the last thing that we have to button up in the front is our track bar, but we have to do that while the Jeep is on its own weight. So for now, we're gonna head to the rear and support our rear axle. So I'm gonna start with this bottom sway bar end link bolt. I'm using an 18-millimeter wrench and then an 18-millimeter deep socket. That deep socket's gonna clear the back of that shock body there. So I'm gonna do the other side bottom bolt on that sway bar end link just so we can pull this down a little bit and gain a little bit more leverage to get that nut off that stud there. So our next step is to remove our shocks. However, first, we have to remove this trim piece. So it's held in by three bolts. I'm gonna use an eight-millimeter socket to go ahead and remove those.So now we can remove this top bolt that's holding in our shock. We'll move to the bottom bolt in just a second. I'm using an 18-millimeter socket. I'm also using a breaker bar. I can't fit my impact wrench in here because it is a little tight. So I'm just gonna break this free. Then we can go ahead and get a hand ratchet on that once this is good and broken.So now we can take out this lower shock bolt with a 19-millimeter wrench and socket. Now, remember that that top part is not connected. So once you get this nut off, just keep a hand on your shock, make sure it doesn't fall on you. Right. Flag nut, there it is off. You got a hand on the shock so you can remove that bolt before we can remove the shock. So we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. So in order to completely drop our axle to get that spring out, we need to disconnect our rear track bar just like we did with our front. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to remove the axle side track bar bolt. There goes the flag nut. So up above your fuel lines what we're gonna do next is disconnect this brake line bracket. This is for your emergency brake. We're going to take that off and discard it. So I'm using a 13-millimeter deep socket and an extension as well as an [inaudible 00:47:38].So our next step is going to reroute our emergency brake lines underneath our subframe as well as our fuel lines just to make sure that it's not interfering with the height of our axle since it is gonna be dropped lower than the factory. So what I'm doing is just grabbing this by pair of needle nose pliers, and I'm gonna wiggle out the end of the e-brake line. All right.So, what we have to do next is get this brake line cable out from this bracket here. And now, there are a couple of tabs on the outside of this line that we have to press down to pull that line back. I'm just taking a flathead screwdriver and wedging them in while pulling back on that line. So what we're gonna do is take our emergency brake cables. We are going to push them back over our subframe over our fuel lines and route them underneath there, so it has some extra room to work with. First, we've gotta take these clips off of our brake line. This is just holding our rear differential wiring harness. So once those are off of there, and that line is free, we can start to push them over. I'm gonna start with the driver's side. So once those are underneath our subframe and our fuel line, we can reinstall them back to where they were pulling those through, making sure they've got stable. And then we can put this hook back into that eyelet down here. So after we have our e-brake reconnected, what we can do is just lower our axial as far as we needed to to take out our springs. So while we're also here, what we're gonna do is take out our factory bump stops. So after we have everything uninstalled, our first step to our install is going to be to install our base plate for our bump stop extensions. So this will go right on the top of the axle there. We're gonna secure that down and then add our bump stop extension on top. So, on this base plate, you're gonna have four inner holes. We wanna make sure that we secure down the holes that are facing the inside of our axle. And these two holes that are facing the outside of the axle are free. And we're gonna take our button head bolts with our flange nuts and screw that down.Then after both of those are threaded, we can take a 9/16 inch wrench and a 6-millimeter Allen key and tighten those down. So just like the front, the rear bump stops will depend on what tires you're looking to run on your to JL and your trim of your JL. So, if you have a JL Rubicon like we do, and you're planning on running a 35-inch tire, you will just need the two-inch bump stop. Now, if you're planning on running 37s on the JL Rubicon, you will need two more spacers. So, it's gonna be 3 inches overall for that rear bump stop. Now, if you have a JL Sport or you have a JL Sahara, and you're looking to run 35s, you will only be using one spacer as well as the two-inch bump stop. For the JL Sport as well as the Sahara, if you're looking to run a 37-inch tire, you are gonna need four spacers. So you'll have a four-inch bump stop in the rear. So, again, we are going to be running 37-inch tires. So we need a 3-inch bump stop in the rear. So that means that we need two spacers as well as our standard bump stop. Now, if you are running 33-inch tires on any of those three models, you won't need bump stops at all. So we are gonna go ahead and make a three-inch bump stop. All right. So I'm just gonna grab the spacers and the bump stop, make sure it sits over those bolt heads nicely since there are indents at the bottom of the spacer. Then what we can do is grab a nut plate. Plug that through the spacer or through our bump stop extension. Take our bolt. Thread that up into that plate. Now, we're gonna thread in the other side as well, and then we can go ahead and tighten that down. So, it'll be kind of tricky with the e-brake cable here, but that's okay. Once you have that threaded in, you can take an eight-millimeter Allen key, and we can go ahead and tighten that down. All right. Now we can move to the front. All right. Now, we can do the same thing on the other side of our axle.So what we can do now is press in our rear bump stops. So I grabbed my trusty blocks again, and I put them on top of our bump stop spacer. Then what we can do is just raise our axle and press those in. You're gonna do the same thing on the other side there.So now we can install our springs. I would like to mention that these are gonna be size-specific, but they will be labeled on the spring. So the left is gonna go to the driver's side, and the right is gonna go to the passenger side. I'm just raising up the axle just to get that isolator pin in the hole at the top of the spring perch. Right now we can move over to the other side. So, to accommodate our shocks, we do have to put in a spacer for our sway bar here. I'm using a 15-millimeter socket to remove the two bolts on the sway bar mount. We're gonna go ahead and put a spacer in here then we can pull it back up with longer hardware. So we can go ahead and put our spacer in here. I did put a little bit of blue thread lock on the bolt there. Go ahead and thread that in with couple threads. Grab our other one. Then we can go back, tighten that down with 15-millimeter socket. So now we're ready to install our shocks, but first, we have to install our roofs. These are just going to be covers that cover up our shaft here to make sure that nothing on the axle or any brake lines are rubbing up against this and causing any extra damage. Now, there are gonna be three points of attachment down at the bottom and there are gonna be three points of attachment down at the bottom of our shock here. So all we have to do is just slide these on. There's gonna be a pretty tight fit as far as getting them on at first once they're down at the bottom.So you're gonna have your button head bolts that we're gonna thread into the bottom of the shock. We'll tighten them down in just a second. We just wanna get everything lined up and in place. And once those are threaded in most of the way, I'm gonna get a 5/32-inch Allen socket and tighten those down all the way. All right. So that one's on. We can do the same thing for the other one. Now, we can go ahead and install them starting with the top. I'm gonna be using that factory hardware. So as you can see, we still have the shock hanging here. I did notice that we need to put on our sway bar end link before we go ahead and mount this up because of the roost here. So we're going to mount up our sway bar end links instead on the bottom right on that nut there. Then up at the top, we're gonna take our button head bolts that Teraflex provided, thread that in. And what we can do is take 5/16 inch Allen key and a 19-millimeter or 3/4 inch wrench and tighten this top one up. And we can take our six millimeter Allen key and a 19-millimeter wrench and tighten up that bottom one.So we can mount up the bottom of our shock with our factory hardware. Then we go ahead and tighten this down. I'm gonna be using that same 18-millimeter socket and wrench we used before to take this off. So we can go ahead and tighten up our top bolt here with that 18-millimeter socket. All right. So, again, we're gonna start with that sway bar end link just so we have enough room to work with when bolting this up. So what I'm gonna do next is attach our track bar bracket. Now, we do have to drill holes in the side of our factory track bar bracket in order to get this mounted up. So right now I'm just going to put it into place. I'm taking a dead blow. I'm just gonna tap it into place for the time being. I just wanna make sure we have it as lined up as best as we can, so once we drill, we know that that's where those holes need to be.All right. So that's fitting in just right. Now, I'm gonna take a center punch and a marker and mark where we need to drill. So what I'm gonna do with this bolt installed is just to make a mark. I just have a sharpie here to make sure where the center is. All right. Then I'm gonna take a center punch. So I'm gonna drill a pilot hole with a 3/16 inch drill bit, and then I'm going to use a step bit to go all the way up to a half an inch.So what I'm gonna do now is move to a step bit. We do have to move up to or drill up to a half inch hole here in this. Just because it is thick metal, it will take a lot of time if we just keep stepping up drill bits. A step bit is going to cut through a lot faster. Just keep an eye on where your step bit is. Again, we have to go up to a half an inch. I'm just putting a little lubricant on here to preserve the life of my step bit. All right. So, those are a half inch at the front. Now, I just have to make sure that they are a half inch all the way through. So I'm gonna take my half inch drill bit and round those down. So what we can do is take our bracket and put that back into place after we've drilled out our holes. Then we can take our smaller bolts, goes through the bracket through our track bar, same through the top one. Then we can bolt them down with the flange nuts on the other side. Everything seems this. So we're lining up pretty good. Now, with the 5/8 inch wrench for the bolt head side and a 19-millimeter socket for the nut side, we can go ahead and tighten those down. So we're going to bolt up this bottom hole here. We do have a crush sleeve that is going to take the place of what was once our track bar here. So we're gonna put that in between, make sure the integrity of that bracket stays strong, and then we're going to bolt that down on the other side or secure it down on the other side.Now, we're gonna tighten this down. Our track bar is not lining up the best in that bottom hole for the two and a half inch lift to a three-inch lift. That top hole is gonna be for a four-inch lift to four and a half inch lift. So we're not gonna be using that. We are going to just tighten that down or tighten this down once it's on the ground. But let's go ahead and tighten this one down before we put our Jeep on its own weight. So I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket for the bolt head and a 7/8 inch wrench for the nut side. So now that we have the Jeep on the ground on its own weight, we can go ahead and attach our track bars. I'm in the rear right now, and I am gonna have somebody wiggle the back end of the Jeep back and forth just so we can get this lined up. Then we can secure that down the other side, and it's going to be tightened down with the 19-millimeter socket and a 7/8 inch wrench.So now that we're in the front, we can secure down our front track bar. I have someone in the driver's seat. What you can do is turn the wheel back and forth, and it will line up that track bar. All right. So once that flag nut is started on the other side, we can just tighten that down all the way with a 21-millimeter socket. So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Reinforced Street and Trail Handling. Enhance your JL’s on and off-road driveability by using the Teraflex 2.50-Inch Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with Falcon 3.3 Shocks. This kit is composed of high-quality components that effectively work together to deliver increased stability and improved ride quality. It guarantees a true street and trail performance ideal for daily-driven Jeeps as well as the off-road beasts. Teraflex brings together Falcon Series 3.3 shocks, lift coil springs, front lower control arms, sway bar links, bump stops, and all the necessary hardware in this S/T2 suspension lift kit.
Superior Shock Absorbers. The Falcon 3.3 Shock Absorbers feature a cleverly-designed 3-position fast-adjust knobs for changing the damping settings. You can set it from soft to firm with the middle setting equipped with 8-position micro adjust dial for finer tuning. Additionally, the piggyback’s increased charge capacity and Falcon’s volume optimized damping significantly enhance shock absorption both for low-speed and high-speed driving.
Heavy-Duty Coil Springs. With Teraflex’s true linear rate technology, the maximum number of active coils is optimized for high load demands. This facilitates better handling and more comfortable ride quality when treading through rugged terrains. Teraflex also specifically designed the Lift Coil Springs and Falcon Shock Absorbers to work effectively together during compression and rebound motions.
High-Quality FlexArms. The Sport FlexArms ensures that your axle is centered, especially when you tackle heavily rough terrains. These high-strength control arms help extend axles during hard-wheeling to make sure that your wheels and navigation stay centered. They are also crafted with dimensional accuracy to smooth pinion angles for improved traction. Moreover, these control arms facilitate smoother and quieter motion, thanks to the premium factory style bushings.
Reinforced Stability. With the longer front and rear sway bar links in this lift set, your Jeep is equipped with quality components to keep it from rolling or tipping over road and trail irregularities. The set of sway bar links included are built with specific lengths to ensure a balanced stance to correct the downward angle that could be dangerous during off-roading.
Complete Bolt-On Upgrade. The Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit directly bolts into the factory mounting locations by means of the installation hardware provided. The entire kit with Falcon piggyback shocks installs in approximately 6 hours with mechanical expertise required.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. TeraFlex Inc. backs the Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with Falcon 3.3 Shocks with a limited lifetime warranty against factory defects in material and workmanship. Some exclusions may apply; please check the terms and conditions for full details.
Application. The Teraflex 2.50-Inch Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with Falcon 3.3 Shocks is specifically designed to fit all 2018-2021 2.0L or 3.6L Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door models.
Application Note. Using this kit on Rubicon models with plastic bumpers would require the removal of bumper-to-fender wind deflector or splash guards to accommodate 35-inch or larger tires. The provided Bump Stop Strike Pad Shim Kit will be needed when using 37-inch tires on Rubicon models.
Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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