(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
Hey guys. So today I'm here with the TeraFlex two-and-a-half inch sport S/T2 suspension lift kit with 3.1 Falcon reservoir shocks, fitting all 2018 and newer four-door JL Wranglers. So lifting your Wrangler is gonna offer you a number of different benefits when it comes to performance, as well as aesthetics, and this option by TeraFlex is going to be a very high-quality and high-performing lift kit. It's going to be a really good one to take a look at. So this is gonna be perfect for somebody who wants to open up that wheel well, creating some more room in there for larger wheels and tires as well as some better articulation and also some better up travel while you're out on the trail. It's also gonna do a really good job at leveling out the rake in the hood creating a more aggressive stance with your Wrangler and even dishing out that performance with that aggressive stance because of all the components that are included in this kit. So this is gonna be for somebody who's looking for a very inclusive lift kit. This is going to go above and beyond when it comes to including components that are going to accommodate for that extra two-and-a-half inches of height, considering we screwed up a lot of angles when lifting our Wrangler. Now, one of those big components is gonna be the sport lower front control arms. Those are gonna get rid of any weird driving characteristics, as well as increase performance since they are a little bit longer and tuned perfectly for that street and trail driving. So S/T in the name is going to mean street and trail, this lift kit is going to be perfectly tuned to be that perfect blend of street and trail performance.Now, a big contributor to that is gonna be your shocks. These 3.1 Falcon shocks are gonna be perfect for somebody who's looking for a step up from a mono-tube shock, with that reservoir increasing their valving and increasing their performance off-road but doesn't necessarily need the adjustment out of a reservoir shock like this. Now, this is gonna be really good for somebody who's looking for a durable shock, as well as a well-working shock. So this is gonna be very efficient, being able to disperse heat a lot faster than some other options, and it's gonna be able to take some abuse while you're out on the trail, perfect for somebody who is hitting the trail a lot and wants something that's going to stand up for a very long time. So, as far as tires go, this is going to fit up to a 35-inch tire on a Sport and a Sahara and up to a 37-inch tire on a Rubicon model because of that higher fender flare. Now, on a Sport and a Sahara, this is going to still fit a 33-inch tire. However, when it comes to a 37, you will be squeezing it in there. You may need to either remove the splash guard or some trim pieces or get a pair of flat fenders in order to accommodate that, as well as some bump-stop extensions. Now, this does come with bump-stop extensions to accommodate for all of the different tire sizes, but for Sport and Sahara, I would recommend to stick to either a smaller 33, for more up travel, or the recommended 35. Now, as far as a Rubicon goes, this is gonna fit up to a 37-inch tire and it's going to fill out the wheel well very nicely and still leave you some room for up travel off-road and some good articulation. Now, as far as a 35 and a 33 goes, those are going to look a little bit smaller, each of those are still gonna give you more room inside the wheel well. However, a 33-inch tire on a Rubicon might look a little small in the wheel well, so I would recommend sticking with a 35 or a 37.So, as far as price goes, this is gonna be roughly $2,200, making this one of your more expensive choices when it comes to a lift kit. However, in my personal opinion, I think that you're getting what you pay for, considering the quality as well as the overall inclusive factor when it comes to all of the parts that you're getting with this. Now, some more expensive options are usually just going to include some more bells and whistles. Like I mentioned before, some reservoir shocks do have adjustability, so those are usually going to be a little bit more expensive in comparison to something like this that doesn't have that adjustability factor. Now, less expensive options are usually just going to not include as many components in the kit. They may even be for mono-tube shocks instead of a reservoir shock. So overall, I personally think if you're looking for a reservoir shock, as well as a lift kit that's going to include everything that you need, that's gonna be very high-performing and very high-quality, then this is a really good one to take a look at.So, install's gonna be a three out of three on the difficulty meter. You will have to know your stuff in order to get this bolted up. There will be some drilling and some modification involved. However, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.Tools that I used for my install were a drill, electric impact, and pneumatic impact. A cut-off wheel, an open-ended wrench set ranging from 15/16 of an inch down to 9/16 of an inch. A ratcheting wrench set ranging from 19 millimeters to 16 millimeters. An adjustable wrench. A pair of channellocks, a pair of needle-nose pliers and standard pliers. A pair of side cutters. A large flat-head screwdriver. A trim removal tool. A dead blow. A pair of scissors, PB blaster or any penetrating catalyst. A socket set ranging from 22-millimeters all the way down to 10-millimeter. A 18-millimeter swivel socket. A set of Allen sockets, ranging from 8-millimeter down to 5/32 of an inch. The provided tool by TeraFlex. A 1/4-inch drive and 3/8-inch drive ratchet. A 3/16-inch and 1/2-inch drill bit. A step bit. A center punch. A razor blade or a box cutter. A 5-inch extension and a 10-inch extension. An 8-millimeter extended Allen key. A medium-sized and small flat-head screwdriver. A marker. The provided Loctite by TeraFlex and a pair of safety glasses.So, our first couple of steps are gonna include getting the Jeep up in the air and taking off our wheels and tires. Now, you can either choose a lift like we have or, if you are doing this on a jack and jack stands, we'll be starting in the front so you wanna make sure that you chalk your back wheels. Next, we're gonna support our axle. I have two pull jacks here. And then, we can start by taking off our sway bar end links, starting with that bottom bolt, using an 18-millimeter socket wrench. So, starting off at the driver's side bottom bolt, I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter swivel, since there's not a lot of room here, and an 18-millimeter wrench. And then, we can do the same thing on the other side. Now, on this side we'll have a flag nut, inside our track bar axle bracket, for our sway-bar end link. So we'll only need that 18-millimeter swivel.So, what I'm gonna do now is pull down our sway bar. Now, this is just going to move it out of the way of our frame track-bar bracket, and then, we can access that top stud and the nut there. So I'm gonna be using a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a 3/8 inch ratchet, and that same 18-millimeter wrench so we can remove that nut. So, once you crack that nut free, what we can do is actually ratchet the stud and spin it on the nut there. Then we can remove our sway-bar end link and do the same thing on the other side. So, what we can do next to get our axle to drop low enough to take out our springs is remove our axle-side track-bar bolt. Now, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket, as well as a 5-inch extension, to clear our drag link here. That was our flag nut on the other side. So we can move on to our shocks, starting with our bottom bolt, using that same 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench that we used for our sway-bar end links.So, our next step is to remove our top shock bolt. Now, you're gonna have an 18-millimeter bolt head right on the outside of your shock tower. Your liner will be in the way so I recommend either using a swivel socket to gain access to that or you can use an 18-millimeter ratcheting wrench like I am. So, once it's completely unthreaded, what we can do is pull our liner forward. Make sure you have a hand on your shock, again, maneuver that bolt out. This will be the bolt, we can pull our shock out. So, what we can do next is disconnect our brake-line bracket from the frame. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket. Once that bolt is out, we can unhook it from the frame. So, once that is unhooked from the frame, what we can do is remove the clip that's holding in our breather tube to the frame. We will be disconnecting this but we want that unhooked at a later time so it will extend to the length of our axle.So, next we can remove the brake-line bracket that's mounted up to the bottom of our spring perch here. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket and a 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove that bolt on the side. So, once that bolt's removed, we can pull out the outer side, and then, unhook it from the bottom of the spring perch. So, what we can do next is pull our ABS line out of our soft line. There's gonna be a couple of attachment points. What we're gonna do is get this out of the way because we will be removing this bracket from our brake line to give us a little bit of extra room once we have our lift on. So I'm just going to pull that out. We'll tuck that back for now. And then, what we can do is keep this attached so it's at a solid attachment point, and then, we can bend this forward. I'm just gonna take a pair of pliers, bend this bracket forward, and that's gonna give us a good angle where we can make a notch on the top of the bracket to break down the structural integrity of the bracket and peel that bracket off of our brake line here. So what I'm gonna do is grab a cut-off wheel and safety glasses and we can make a notch in the top of that bracket.So again, we're gonna be making a notch up here so we can heat up the bracket and break down that structural integrity so it's a lot easier to peel off with a pair of channellocks. Now, I would like to mention that we're not cutting completely through it, we're just making a notch in the top. So be careful of your soft line, as well as your ABS line, make sure that they are out of the way. And also, if you do nick this and if you do damage your soft line or your ABS line, you will have to replace it right away. So, while that bracket's out, what we can do is grab a pair of channellocks and start to peel that bracket back. And now we;ll open that up so we can slip out our soft line. So now, with the 15-millimeter socket, what we can do is remove our bracket. So, what we can do now is disconnect our breather hose on our differential, using a pair of pliers. I'm just gonna pry down on that clamp and pull back. So, everything that we just did on this side we can do the same thing on the other side. So, before we can drop our axle, we do need to disconnect our four-wheel drive actuator. So, I'm just going to pull this little tab back, and press down on it, and pull back, and that's going to release that wiring harness. Then we can move up the wiring harness. You're gonna see a couple of different clips. I'm gonna use the same trim removal tool and just disconnect those. Then we can remove the one that is attached to our upper control arm. Right. Now we can just put this aside and drop our axle.So, at this point, we can lower our pull jacks and lower our axle so we can take out our springs. So, once you get the axle low enough where you can wiggle this out, we can lift this up and remove our spring. What we can do is remove our bump stop. Now, I would recommend to take a flathead and kind of unwedge it from that tab there. It'll make it a little bit easier. So, after you have your spring and your bump stop out on one side, we can repeat the same process on the other. So, now we can move on to our control arms. I'm gonna remove the driver-side bottom bolt first. So, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket for the bolt-head side. And for the nut side, I'm gonna use a 15/16-inch wrench. Now we can move up to the upper bolt. Just keep in mind that, once this bolt is loosened, the control arm will drop down. So I actually have it resting on my shoulder so it doesn't swing down. We can use that same 21-millimeter socket and 15/16-inch wrench. With that bolt still on, I'm just gonna let this drop, putting the end on that arm before we remove that.. Then we can repeat that process on the other side. So, in order to get this bolt out, even though it does have a little bit of pressure on it from our previous control-arm removal, what I have is a flat-head screwdriver through to the bottom of the bolt. You can also use an extension, and I'm just gonna top a dead blow on the back and it shouldn't release that bolt.So, before we jump into the install, I want to tell you guys a little bit more about what you're getting with this lift kit and how this is gonna benefit you a lot better than the factory suspension was. Now, the big thing about this lift kit is the fact that it's gonna give you two-and-a-half inches of lift, and that's what these springs are responsible for. So, this is gonna give you all of your height and really everything else in the lift kit is going to accommodate for that added height and add to your ride quality as well as your performance. Now, speaking of those accommodating factors, you're actually getting a number of them. So you are getting bump stops, as well as bump-stop extensions, and will even come with spacers to accommodate for some different tire sizes, including 33, 35, and even up to a 37-inch tire. Now, you're also getting longer sway-bar end links, which is gonna help out with articulation. And they're also gonna have a factory-style attachment system with the ball and socket, as well as the standard bushing down at the bottom. However, these are made to stand up a little bit longer than your factory suspension will be able to do. And not to mention, you also are getting a sway bar drop bracket for the rear to increase your articulation off-road.Now, the big two things about this lift kit is the fact that you're getting longer control arms as well as a high-performing shock. Now, the control arms are going to correct your caster angles so you're not gonna get any weird driving characteristics after you mount this up. These are going to be a lot more durable than your factory control arms but they're also going to have these same style bushings. So you are still getting the range and motion that you would want out of your control arms, however, these are going to be a little bit longer and roll that axle back where it should be. Now, the big thing about this lift kit is the shocks. Now, you have two schools of thought when it comes to shocks. You have a hydraulic shock, which is going to be a factory-style shock. It's going to work perfectly with the factory suspension, it's gonna be very fluid-like, very comfortable, perfect for daily driving. However, when it comes to performance, it's not really going to perform. So, they are susceptible to shock fade over time, which is foaming that forms inside the shock body when it's worked really hard causing shock fade, and a squishy shock overtime. So really, this is good for factory applications but not good for performance. And that's where we upgrade to the Falcon 3.1.Now, this is going to be a step up really from any gas-charged shock, considering this is also a reservoir shock, but this is gonna be tuned for performance and tuned to have increased valving and increased flow with that oil that's in the shock body. Now, the piggyback shock is directly mounted onto the shock body, which is something different than some other reservoir shocks. So usually, when you take a look at reservoir shocks, they are gonna have a line that's going to feed that oil to and from that reservoir. However with this, this is going to be directly mounted eliminating any problems with leaking or a broken line and it's also gonna have a larger opening which is going to increase that valving and increase that flow just that much more from any other typical shock. Now, what I really like about this is not only the fact that they're durable, as far as performance goes. It will be able to work really hard while you're out on the trail, like bumps at fast speeds, but they're also going to be durable on the outside too.So, these are gonna be made of a 6061-T6 precipitation-hardened aluminum-alloy shock body which is able to take a hit off road and they're gonna be able to resist damage a lot better than this steel-body one would. Now, not to mention, because this is steel, it's not going to disperse heat as well as an aluminum shock would, which is really important when a shock is working because the faster you can dissipate heat or faster you can dissipate that energy, the more efficient the shock is working and the less shock fade that you're gonna get. Now, this is also gonna have a 3/4-inch hardened chrome-plated shock, which is gonna reduce any damage to the actual shock and it's also gonna reduce buckling, which is pretty common when you are taking a look at shocks in general and working them really hard. Now, this is gonna reduce all of that damage, it is going to be perfect for somebody who's looking for a high-performing shock. And, not to mention, when it's not working off-road, it's still gonna be a little bit stiffer to reduce body roll on the street. So, that really covers it for all of the new components that we're getting. So, enough about all these components on the table, let's go ahead and mount them up.So, our first step of the actual install is to install our control arms. Now I'm gonna start up at this top bracket here and reuse our factory hardware. All right. Now, we're not gonna tighten them down just because we don't wanna damage the bushing. But then, what we can do next is move to our lower mount. So, what we can do now is have somebody pry on the axle so we can line up our control arm. So, once you have the bolt through, you can thread the nut on the other side and we can go to the other side of the axle and bolt up our other control arm.So what we can do now is press in our new bump stops. Now, I have a little bit of grease up at the top to help it go in a little bit easier, and then, also three blocks of wood underneath so we can press this up into place evenly. So, after that's pressed into place, we can repeat that process on the other side. So now we're ready to install our springs, as well as our bump-stop extensions. Now, for the bump-stop extensions, you are gonna get a couple of different options. Like I mentioned before, you do have spacers that come in the kit. Now, the bump-stop extension itself is gonna be two inches, and then, you'll get a couple of half inch spacers. Now, because this is a Sahara and we'll be putting on 35-inch tires, we're gonna have a three-inch bump-stop extension in the front. Now, it is gonna depend if you have the Rubicon, or a Sport, or Sahara. The Sport and the Sahara do not have the race fender flare as to where the Rubicon does. So, for the Rubicon, you won't need as much of a bump-stop extension because what these are basically for is to stop tire to fender contact. So, you will have to refer to the JL bump-stop and tire-size guide in order to find the setup that's best for you. But what we can do now is install our 3-inch bump-stop extension for our specific JL Sahara that has a 35-inch tire inside of our spring here, and then, we can put our spring up into place.Now, you also wanna make sure that your factory isolator is still up there. And then, we wanna make sure that we twist the spring to where the pigtail is sitting flat, or flush in this isolator. Now we can secure down our bump-stop extension. So, what we can do is take our provided bolt, send that through our bump-stop extension. It is gonna pass the spring perch. There is a pre-drilled hole there. Once that's through, we can take our provided tool by TeraFlex, put our flange nut into it, reach up under into the spring perch, and we can thread that on. So I'm gonna take our 6-millimeter Allen socket that we're going to use with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet in just a second. So I'm gonna hand thread that the best I can, and then, we can tighten it down. So, for the 3-inch bump-stop extension, again, I have two half-inch spacers and the bump stop that was provided in the kit, or the bump-stop extension was provided in the kit. You can tighten that down with that 6-millimeter Allen key and our provided wrench by TeraFlex. All right. Then, we can repeat that on the other side.So, what we're gonna do next is trim our inner fender liner in order to fit our larger shock in our shock tower, as well as the piggyback part or the reservoir part of our shock on the side here. Now, if you don't wanna modify this, you can just put this behind or put the piggyback reservoir behind the fender. However, it might push it out a little bit so what we're gonna do is trim, and you'll even have a template in the guide if you need to use that. So basically you need to measure just a couple of inches over, and then, we're just going to widen this space and bring it down on the side here just so we can open up a little bit more room. So I'm just gonna take a razor blade, just be careful when using this, and I'm gonna start trimming. So, when you get to this point, you're gonna have a little bit of insulation behind here that you can cut through. So, if you're having trouble with cutting that insulation with the razor blade, what you can do is just take a pair of scissors and just trim that away. So, I've already cut through this with the razor blade, I'm just trimming that insulation on the back.So, making sure that your brake line's down at the bottom, that your spring perch are in front of your shock, what we can do is mount up our new shock. We're gonna line this up, take our factory bolt, and thread that through. So, once that's hand threaded, what we can do is take an 18-millimeter socket, tighten that up. So, what we can do now is attach the bottom of our shock using our factory bolt. Again, you might have to tinker with the height of the axle in order to get that through. If you need to use a dead blow, you can. We're gonna attach the nut on the other side and tighten that down with an 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench. So, next we can attach our brake line to our frame in the factory location using the factory bolt. You can tighten it up with the 10-millimeter socket. And then, what we can do is actually disconnect this clip from the brake-line bracket. That's gonna give our breather hose a little bit more room to stretch down now that we have a lift on our Jeep. So then, making sure, before we put in the shock that this was in front of our shock or technically behind it, what we can do is secure that down with that factory bolt. I'm gonna tighten that up with a 10-millimeter socket.So what we can do next is we can attach our breather hose. I'm going to use the same pliers that we used before to clamp this clamp down to wiggle on the hose. Once that's on, you can let that go. And then, we can put our ABS line back in the little bracket on our soft line. And we can actually trim this clip off, since we won't be needing it. Just using a pair of side cutters, being careful not to clip the actual hose. So, everything that you saw on this side, we're gonna repeat on the other side. So, before we move on to our sway-bar end links, I want to extend our wiring harness for our four-wheel-drive actuator. So, this is kind of crimped up at the top here. If we just take a pair of side cutters and cut that zip tie, it will extend it down a little bit farther so we can reach our first mount on our upper control arm. And then, we can plug it in on the back. So we can plug this harness in, make sure that that tab is down, and then, we can move on to our sway-bar end links.So what we can do now is attach our sway-bar end links. Now, before we attach the bottom, what I do wanna do is tighten this down on the top, just because our frame side track-bar bracket is there, and it won't give us the best access considering that we have to access or keep the stud still with an Allen socket. Now, on the other side, we'll be able to do it, but we just wanna mount this up first. So, we can take a 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench, or a 19-millimeter wrench, and a 6-millimeter Allen key, or Allen socket, and tighten that up. It's a little bit easier with a ratcheting wrench, just so there's not as much movement. So, once that's tightened up, we can move our sway-bar up, line up the bottom, and secure it down with our factory bolt. After that's done and all, we can tighten that down with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. Then we can repeat that process on the other side.So, the last thing that we have to do in the front is just reattach our track bar. However, we need to do that when the Jeep is down on its own weight so we can that line it up correctly with our steering wheel. So, in the meantime, we can get started in the back. So now that we're in the back, we wanna do the same thing that we did in the front and support our rear axle. I have two pull jacks supporting it on either side, and then, we can start by removing our lower shock bolt. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench and 18-millimeter socket. Might have to raise up the axle just a little bit and pull it out of the shock, and you should be able to wiggle it out. So, next we can move up top. Now, because we have an aftermarket bumper, we don't have to remove that factory trim piece, that's usually right here, that's covering up that bolt. Now, if you have that piece, it's gonna be three 8-millimeter screws that you can remove and you can pull that trim piece out, and then, we can remove that bolt using an 18-millimeter socket. So now we can remove our sway-bar end links since we have our shock out of the way. For the bottom bolt, I'm gonna use that same 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench. Then, for the top bolt, we can use that same 18-millimeter wrench, as well as a 6-millimeter Allen key. Like we did in the front, I'm actually gonna use a ratcheting wrench just to make it a little bit easier.What we can do next is remove our brake-line bracket from our frame, just like we did in the front, with a 10-millimeter socket. So, while we're here, we can remove this bump-stop. I'm going to, again, wedge a flathead behind the tab here to kind of pry out and it should just pop out. So now that we've finished on this side, we can repeat that same process on the other side. So next we can disconnect the track bar on the axle side using a 21-millimeter socket. So what we can do next is remove our breather hose. So I'm going to take a pair of pliers and depress that clamp, and then, pull back on the tubing. We'll move that the side there. And what we actually wanna do is extend this. There's two zip ties, up at the top, that keep this in place. Now, I'm just going to disconnect or clip this one zip tie and that's gonna extend it down a little bit farther so we have some extra room when our lift is on. So I'm gonna take a pair of side cutters. Make sure, again, that you're not cutting the line. You just wanna cut that zip tie. And what that's gonna do is kinda let it hang down so it's gonna give us some extra room to work with. What we can do now is lower down our axle so we can remove our springs. Now, when we're lowering this down, we wanna still keep an eye on our brake lines, especially our e-brake line. Now, we are going to be rerouting this underneath our frame but I wanna get our springs out first so we have some more room to work with.So, next we can remove our e-brake or a parking brake-line bracket. There's gonna be a bracket right above your fuel line, or your filler neck, and I'm gonna be removing that with a 13-millimeter socket. And I also have a 10-inch extension to reach up there. So what we need to do in order to disconnect our brake line is to pull out on this little tab and kind of stretch the line and unhook it. So, then we can move up to here, this is where it's mostly held in place. There's gonna be a couple of fins that we need to pass through this bracket here, and I'm just gonna use a flat-head screwdriver to help pull them back. Now, this can be a little bit tricky, it might take you a little bit of time. Then we can repeat that on the other side. So then what we can do is take each of our lines and pass them over...and reroute them to where their factory mounting location is. After those are routed down, we can pull that back through our bracket, those barbs will keep it in place, and then, we can rehook in there. Now, this is the tricky part, you may have to pull this out to get this hooked back into place. Seemed like that went in pretty easy. Then we do the same thing on the other side.So, next we can install our bump stops, before we install our springs, because we have to compress our axle. So I, again, have some grease on the bump stop to make sure that it slides in easily. I also have a couple blocks of wood to help press it in. And then, we can raise up our axle and press the bump stop into place. Once it seats itself in the jounce tube, I lower this down and repeat that on the other side.So, first, for our bump stop extension we need to install our plate and we'll lay that on top, install our button-head bolts, as well as our nut on the back. You wanna thread that into place, we don't wanna tighten it down just yet.Other one in on the back. So, after they're threaded in, we can take a 6-millimeter Allen key and a 9/16-inch wrench and tighten those up.So, after that plate is in place, what we can do is grab our actual bump-stop extension. Now because, again, we do have a Sahara with the lower fender flare and we're putting on a 35, we need a 3-inch bump-stop extension in the back to accommodate for that added height and to prevent any tire to fender contact. So we're gonna lay that down on. So, again, it is going to depend on your tire size, as well as the model of your Wrangler, what size spacers or what size bump-stop extensions you're gonna need. But this is going to be a 3-inch for what we need. So, there is a nut plate that's provided in the kit, we're going to slide that through. Then we have some longer Allen head bolts with some little washers. You can slide that through and thread that in. Then we can tighten that down with an 8-millimeter Allen socket. I'm just using an extended Allen socket to give myself some room. The extended Allen key is helpful in the back because of the brake-line bracket...or the e-brake line, I should say. Great. So, once that bump-stop extension is tight, we can do the same thing on the other side.So, now we can install our springs, making sure that we have the right springs on the right side. They are gonna be side-specific because of the weight displacement of our gas tank. So we are gonna be reusing our factory isolator, so I would recommend to hold that up in place. There is a placement pin on this, and this is actually really important, we do need to keep that in place to keep our spring essentially in place. So we're gonna start with our driver's side. And it is gonna be a little tighter over here because of the exhaust, as well as our track-bar bracket. So, once that's in place, we can raise up on our axle to make sure that our isolator isn't going anywhere. We also wanna try to line up the pigtail with the split in our isolator. Once that's in place and aligned, we can do the same thing on the other side.So, our next step is to install our sway-bar drop bracket. Now, this is just gonna go in between our sway bar and our frame just to give us some better articulation. So what I'm gonna do is remove the two bolts that are holding in our sway bar with a 15-millimeter socket. So we can take or spacer, put this in between, grab our new provided bolts, as well as our provided Loctite or thread lock, put a little bit on each bolt, and thread that on through. Now we're gonna loosely thread them in, we wanna get the other side in before we tighten them down, just to make sure that they're even. Then we can retighten them up with a 15-millimeter socket after we finish the other side. So, after the other side is also threaded in, we can tighten this up with a 15-millimeter socket.So, our next step is to install our track bar bracket. Now, this is gonna make sure that our track bar is sitting higher, that's going to recenter our axle better than if we reattached it in the factory location. So, what I'm gonna do is put one of the bolts through. We're not gonna be attaching this right now, we do have to drill two holes on the outside of the bracket in order to make sure that this is gonna stay in place and have some structural integrity for our track bar. So now that that's in place, what we can do is take a marker and mark where we need to drill. The reason I put this bolt here was to make sure that this is exactly where it's going to be. I'm gonna take this out and we can drill those two holes. So what I'm gonna do first is mark a place where we're gonna drill. So this is gonna be in the center here. I'm just gonna use a center punch. So, after you've marked where you need to drill, what we can do is drill a pilot hole. I'm gonna use a 3/16-inch drill bit. So what I'm gonna do now is take a step bit and step this whole up to a half inch. Now, this is a little bit easier, it cuts a little bit better than continuously stepping up between standard drill bits. This is also a lot shorter so you can get a straighter cut with it.So what I'm gonna do next is just take a half-inch drill bit and run this through the hole just making sure that it's true to size. Sometimes with the step bit and thicker metal, it won't necessarily cut the whole hole, so I'm just going to run one of these through. It may be a little bit easier to go from the other side as well if you have a longer drill bit. So, what I'm gonna do next is just give these two holes a coat of chassis paint just because this has been metal. So, after we have the holes drilled and the paint is dry, we can place our bracket on top of our factory track-bar bracket and secure those two holes on the side with our shorter hardware. So what I'm gonna do is tighten those up using an 18-millimeter socket and a 5-inch extension, to go inside the bracket, and a 16-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt still. So, that's gonna pull the bracket in place, and then, we can install our bottom bolt.So now, for this bottom factory mounting location, we're gonna take our sleeve that's provided in the kit and pop that into place. You may need like a flat-head screwdriver or something just to make sure that that is centered. And that's basically going to prevent this bracket from collapsing or pinching when we tighten this down. So then, we can take our new provided bolt by TeraFlex...send that through, take our provided [inaudible 00:47:12] nut, thread that into the other side. Now we can tighten this one down, considering that this does not have a bushing, the top one. Once we secure that, we're gonna have to tighten that down on the ground just so we don't tear the bushing from the stress of the weight being on the ground. So, before we secure the top, I'm gonna tighten this bottom bolt with an 18-millimeter socket and a 13/16-inch wrench.So, now we can secure down our track bar. Now, this top hole is gonna be for Jeeps that have 4 inches of lift. The bottom hole is gonna be for 2.5 to 3 inches of lift, so we're gonna be utilizing that bottom mounting location. So it looks like it's not lining up but, once we put the Jeep down on the ground, we will be able to get this through and tighten it down with the same tools that we used to tighten this down. So, now we can install our sway-bar end links and they are going to secure a little bit different than in the front. So that stud that's usually up at the top, this is actually gonna go down at the bottom, and then, we'll secure these top ones with the provided hardware in the kit. So I'm gonna thread that nut onto the bottom there just to make sure it's in place. Then we can take our provided bolt...and nut by TeraFlex. So what we can do is tighten down this bottom stud and nut with the same 6-millimeter Allen socket and 19-millimeter wrench. Then we can tighten down the top with the same 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench but with an 8-millimeter Allen socket. And we can repeat that on the other side. You may have to tinker with the axle height for the other side just because it may be uneven.So what we can do next is install our shock. These are gonna be side-specific as well. It's gonna label it on the back of the main shock body here. We can reinstall it with our factory bolt. Right now, I'm just gonna let this hang here. We do have to install our roost on the bottom, that's gonna protect our shaft here. And then, we're gonna mount it up on the bottom, and then, tighten everything down. So, this is gonna be our roost. We can kinda twist that down on in. Then, once that's in place, we can put our lower part of our shock into that bracket down here. You might have to tinker with the axle height in order to get that lined up. So, with our small screws, what we're gonna do is place this down over our mounting points. I'm gonna squeeze this down into place, grab our provided screws, thread those in to the shock. You're gonna have three, one on either side and one in the middle. Then, with a 5/32-inch Allen key, we're gonna tighten those down. So we can tighten down our bottom and our top bolt using an 18-millimeter socket, and then, for the bottom, we're gonna use an 18-millimeter wrench as well. So, after we finished on this side, what we're gonna do is repeat that on the other side.So, while we're here, we do need to reconnect our breather hose. I'm just gonna clamp back down on that clamp here with the pair of pliers. Push that on to the axle. And then, we can move over to our brake lines and re-secure those. So we're just gonna hook this back into the frame, take our factory bolt, and thread that in. We can tighten that down with the 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna repeat that on the other side. So, after that brake line is in, what we need to do now is throw the tires back on, tighten them down, put the Jeep down on its own weight so we can re-secure our rear and our front track bar, and then, we can torque everything down and we should be all set to go. So, now that we have the Jeep down on the ground, what we can do is reattach our rear track bar. I have someone pushing the back of the Jeep back and forth to line it up. All right. So, once you have the bolt through, you can thread that on, and then, we can tighten that down. So, now we're gonna tighten this down with an 18-millimeter socket and ratchet and a 13/16-inch wrench.Now, in the front, we'll be able to reattach our track bar with the factory bolt. I have somebody in the driver's seat who's gonna turn the steering wheel left and right to make sure that this lines up. Then we can tighten it down with the 21-millimeter socket and a 5-inch extension to clear our drag link. So what we can do now is tighten down our front lower control arms. I'm using a 21-millimeter socket on the bolt-head side, and on the neck side, I'm using an adjustable wrench but you can also use a 15/16-inch wrench. So, after you've secured and tightened down your front and your rear track bar, I would recommend to torque everything down and take your Wrangler to get an alignment, and then, you'll be all set to go.That's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Improved All-Terrain Dynamics. Experience improved on-road dynamics and enhanced off-road performance by installing the 2.50-Inch Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with Falcon 3.1 Shocks on your Jeep Wrangler. With premium-quality components, Teraflex ensures that your all-terrain adventures will be smooth, stable, and controlled. This kit includes front and rear coil springs, piggyback shocks, sway bar links, and control arms for easier handling through rough terrains.
Increased Stability. The Falcon 3.1 piggyback shock absorbers are optimized to deliver superior performance for a wide range of driving conditions. This set is ideal both for the daily driven JLs and the extreme off-roaders. The increased capacity of the piggyback for oil and gas charge facilitates minimal heat buildup and enhanced absorption effectivity. These superior properties significantly improve the overall ride quality.
Smooth and Comfortable. TeraFlex utilizes the true linear rate technology for maximum number of active coils under load for consistent performance. This delivers improved handling throughout the full range of suspension travel for optimal vehicle stability. Additionally, Teraflex Lift Coil Springs are particularly designed to work best with Falcon Shock Absorbers for superior performance by enhancing compression and rebound activities.
Premium Sport FlexArms. With the preset front lower Sport Flexarms included in this S/T2 Kit, you are equipped for improved directional stability and better handling. This new control arm kit gives you better control during hard wheeling and off-roading, thanks to the corrected caster and pinion angles. Additionally, each control arm is furnished with high-quality factory style bushings for smoother and quieter operations, especially useful on rugged trails.
High-Quality Sway Bar Links. This suspension lift kit comes with a pair of 11.50-inch front and 10.75-inch rear sway bar links. These bars are built to maximize the clearance between the tire and sway bars. The upper links feature sealed narrow shoulder tie rod type ball socket and the lower links sports sealed ball socket. These provide precise and immediate reaction during sway bar loading for better balance and all-terrain traction.
Complete Bolt-On Upgrade. The Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit directly bolts into the factory mounting locations by means of the installation hardware provided. The entire kit with Falcon piggyback shocks installs in approximately 6 hours with mechanical expertise required.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. TeraFlex Inc. backs the Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with Falcon 3.1 Shocks with a limited lifetime warranty against factory defects in material and workmanship. Some exclusions may apply; please check the terms and conditions for full details.
Application. The Teraflex 2.50-Inch Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with Falcon 3.1 Shocks is specifically designed to fit all 2018-2020 2.0L or 3.6L Jeep Wrangler JL 4-door models.
Application Note. Using this kit on Jeep models with plastic bumpers would require the removal of bumper-to-fender wind deflector or splash guards to accommodate 35-inch or larger tires. The Bump Stop Strike Pad Shim Kit included in this kit will be needed to accommodate 37-inch tires on Rubicon models.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
What's in the Box
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