(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
This Teraflex 1.5-Inch Sport ST1 Suspension Lift Kit with Falcon 2.1 Shocks is for anyone with a two-door, 2018 and up JL that is looking to be able to run a 33-inch tire on your Jeep and have plenty of clearance for it. If you want to go with a smaller 31-inch tire, you can probably get away without a lift kit and if you want to go up to a 35-inch tire, you might be able to squeeze them on here but you are going to have a little bit of a clearance problem especially if you're trying to go off-road. So this is really designed for that 33-inch tire. This is going to be a strong two out of three wrenches for the installation. Even though it's a spacer lift kit and doesn't include springs, it is still a lot of disassembly and a lot of reassembly to do to get this installed but we'll show you how to do it. And if you have some hand tools and a jack and a set of jack stands, you can do this in your driveway if you choose to.So this is going to be a very simple lift kit. It's going to include spacers for both the front and the rear of the Jeep and they're gonna go right above those factory isolators, so you're using your factory springs here. And it's just going to provide you with a little bit of additional ride height but it's not really going to change a lot of the ride characteristics because you're not putting in a different spring. It's not going to have a different spring rate from the factory. So it is going to ride pretty similarly from a spring perspective as the factory suspension would. So it's going to have those spaces. You're also going to get some new longer jounce bumpers and these are going to be very similar to the factory jounce bumpers in the way that they're built. They have that same really high-density foam so that when the suspension does come to a full compression it's not going to be a hard stop, it's going to be able to absorb some of that shock and be a little bit softer for you. So again, built very much like the factory ones just a little bit longer. And the additional length is because now we're running that spacer and also because of the length of the shock. And the shock is really what shines in this lift kit in my opinion. That's where a lot of the cost is wrapped up and that's what's really going to give you a great comfortable ride on-road and off-road but also a lot of control off-road especially if you're doing some more high-speed wheeling, maybe you're hitting the washboards, you're out in the desert. These are going to provide a lot of control and comfort.So this is going to be the Falcon 2.1 shock. Falcon does offer a couple of different shocks, some of them are going to be reservoir shocks, some of them are going to be adjustable, so the cost can certainly go up from here but this is going to be one of the more basic shocks. This is still going to be a monotube shock which means that it doesn't have an additional wall inside the shock body here, this is the actual wall of the shock which means there's a ton of space in the shock. As you can see, it's a really large body. And what that space means is that you can have a really large head on the piston inside the shock which means you can do a lot of damping. You're also going to have a whole lot of shock fluid inside of the shock which is going to help to dissipate heat, and that's really, really important when we're talking about a shock. You're going to have an aluminum body on the shock which again is all about heat dissipation. Gonna have a really large piston here which means it's going to up really well over time, same thing with the rubber that's in both the bottom and the top mounts of the shock. They're designed to stay nice and quiet, you're not gonna end up with any rattles or any additional movement out of those, they're gonna hold up really well. So it's a shock fed to build very well, built for longevity but also built to provide that really comfortable and controlled ride on-road and off-road.Now because this lift kit not only includes shocks with your spacer lift kit, it includes a really high-quality shock, this is certainly going to be more expensive than a lot of the other 1.5-inch spacer lift kits on the market. Even some that include some of the lesser shocks out there. This lift kit is coming in at right around a thousand dollars. Now if you are just looking for a small lift kit that's going to allow you to run a set of 33-inch tires but is going to ride as well or even better than that factory suspension did, you're going to want a high quality set of shocks and this is going to be a really nice lift kit choice. Like I said before, we're gonna give it a two out of three wrenches for the installation. Let me walk you through the process.For this installation, you'll need a variety of sockets from 13 to 22 millimeters, also a variety of wrenches from 17 to 22 millimeters. We drove all of those sockets with a variety of different tools from our three-eighths electric impact to our three-eighths pneumatic ratchet and our half-inch pneumatic impact. You'll also need a trim removal tool, a pair of pliers and a small screwdriver.The first step in this two out of three wrench installation is going to be disconnecting these sway bar end links at the axle. We're going to do that first but the process of uninstallation is really removing or loosening anything that keeps the axle from drooping. Then we can drop the axle down, get that spacer in above our spring and finally swap out the shocks before we move on to the back of the Jeep. But again, we're starting right up here with our sway bar end links at the axle, so grab a wrench and we'll get that loosened up. Now we'll remove the sway bar end link on the axle side on the driver side as well. Before we pull the bolt out of the track bar on the axle side, we're gonna throw a couple of pole jacks underneath the axle. Like I said, everything we're removing and loosening right now is to allow us to droop the axle down. So we're taking away all of the limiting factors for droop, and we need something else to hold our axle up. Of course, if you're doing this in your driveway on a set of jack stands, you can just slide a floor jack underneath the axle to hold the weight. Being that we're on a lift, we're gonna be using these pole jacks.With the axle supported, we can remove our track bar bolt on the axle side. So we're just gonna swing the sway bar up out of the way so we can get a wrench on there and remove that bolt. The next step we're going to take is removing our lower shock bolts off the axle. Now, of course, this lift kit and does include a new set of shocks, so eventually, we'll have to get to those top shock bolts as well. But we're just gonna start with the bottom, again, doing everything we need to do to lower that axle down and get our spacers in, we'll worry about the shocks next.Once you have that lower shock bolt over here on the passenger side, you can do the same thing on the driver side. While we're over here on the passenger, we're also going to remove our brake line bracket that organizes our brake lines, keeps them from getting pinched and that bolts directly here to the lower control arm. So we're going to remove that bolt, once that's out of the way, we're also going to unplug our axle disconnect.This is the axle disconnect that I was referring to, we're going to be removing this by first pulling this plastic safety clip out on the top here and then we can unplug it. After that, there are a couple of cable straps up a little bit higher that we'll have to remove as well, so we have a small screwdriver, we'll pull that plastic clip out of the way here. That'll let us pinch and pull. And then we can get a trim removal tool in there to get our small plastic clips out of the way and free up this wire completely.After unplugging the axle disconnect on the passenger side, we're back over on the driver side to remove the lower shock bolt. Now we can remove the brake line bracket on the lower control arm. Over here on the driver side, we don't have any electronics to unplug but we do have the differential breather that we'll need to disconnect. So we have a pair of pliers to pinch the clamp here and slide that back a little bit. There we go. And then just pull the hose off and set it aside.At this point, we can lower our axle down to take the weight off of our springs, get the springs out to get our spacers in place. So we're gonna crank down on both of our pole jacks at the same time, lowering that axle. With the axle lowered down and no weight on the spring we can get the spring out of the way then pull the jounce bumper to start putting some new parts in. We're also going to pull down the factory isolator because this is gonna go on the bottom side of our spacer. Now we can do the same thing on the driver side.Now we're going to install our spacer with our factory isolator and then our jounce bumper. As you can see, the factory isolator has a couple of pins on it that index the location, so you can really only rotate this one way and have it sit in there properly and the spacer is going to accept that. As you can see, they sit together quite nicely. The spacer also has a couple of indexing pins in the top of it where it will sit into the top of the spring perch. So again, everything is gonna only go in one way and that makes this installation really, really easy, there's no guessing at all. So we'll get the slid over the jounce tube and get the jounce bumper installed.So this is our new longer jounce bumper and it's gonna go right in place of our factory jounce bumper, and these really just press into place. There are a couple of punch tabs on the bottom of the jounce tube that squeeze into the foam holding them tight. Now the factory ones did come out pretty easily, they didn't fight us too hard. These ones may or may not give us a little bit of trouble going in, it's really just a game of putting enough pressure on them for them to pop into place. If you do have some trouble, you can try a little bit of silicone lubricant to help your slide this in the place.Now we have the jounce bumper in place, it's just a matter of replacing the factory spring. And just like the spacer in the factory isolator, these are really only going to install one way. So once we get it in place, we're gonna rotate it until the pigtails of the spring top and bottom click into place. Then we can jump over to the other side, do the same thing.So like I said, these are going to have a couple of pins here and some detents in your spacers, so these will only slide together one way and index in, so you can't put them the wrong way. And you're also going to have a couple of pins on top of your spacer that are gonna go right into the top of your spring perch. So we'll get our spacer and factory isolator slid over the jounce tube and rotate it until it clicks in place. There we go. Next we'll get our new longer jounce bumper in place. Again, it's just a matter of pushing, twisting, whatever needs to get done for it to click in, and they do go in pretty easy. Now we'll reinstall our factory spring. Once we have it in place, just like on the other side, we'll rotate it until it seats. They'll really only sit one way.Now that we have the springs all squared away, we're gonna remove the top shock bolts, get those factory shocks out of the way and get our new Falcon longer shocks installed. Now we'll get our new Falcon shock installed with the factory hardware. Now we can come over to the driver side and do the same thing. At this point, we can raise the axle back up enough to get the lower shock mounts lined up and get everything reattached with that factory hardware. So we'll start jacking up on the pole jacks.Now that the axle is lifted high enough for the shock mount on the axle and the bottom of the shock to be lined up, we'll put that factory bolt back in there and get it tightened down. With the shocks all bolted back up, we're gonna move onto the brake line brackets and our electronics that we disconnected, bolting all of that back up. With the brake line reconnected, we will plug back in our axle disconnect, making sure that we press our plastic safety tab there so it doesn't wiggle loose. And we can also reconnect the wire ties that we disconnected. Now we'll come back over to the driver side, reconnect the brake line bracket over here and the differential breather. And just slide the differential vent back over the nipple on the differential and use our pliers to get the clamp reconnected.Our next step is to swing the sway bar down into place so that we can reconnect the sway bar end links on the axle. Now we'll do the same thing over here on the driver side, reconnecting the sway bar end link.The last step we have to do to get the front end buttoned up is get the track bar rebolted in place. In order to do this, there are a couple of different methods that are going to work. A lot of people will use a ratchet strap to help pull the axle over and get the bolt hole in the axle aligned with the bolt hole in the track bar. But another way to do it, and this is especially useful if you're doing this in your driveway on some jack stands and jacks, is to put the tires on the Jeep, get the Jeep sitting under its own weight and have a friend sit in the driver seat and just turn the steering wheel back and forth. As they turn the steering wheel back and forth, that will shift the body over the axle and help to get things lined up. And in fact, it also works in our scenario with the Jeep on a lift here. So we have a buddy up there, we're gonna get them to turn the wheel hard over. And as you're gonna be able to see, this will line up the track bar for us without needing to use that ratchet strap.Now that we have that track bar bolt started by hand, we'll go ahead and torque it down and you want to make sure you get this good and tight. And that's gonna do it for the front of the Jeep. We're gonna get the pole jacks out of here and move on to the rear. So we'll get our pole jack placed under the rear axle in the same way as the front, we want these taking the weight. Then we'll go ahead and remove or loosen anything that's keeping the axle from drooping. Again, just like the front, get those springs out and then get the shocks swapped. So now that the axle is supported, we'll first remove our sway bar end link at the axle. Now we can remove our lower shock bolt.Next, we'll remove the bolt out of the brake line bracket. Now we jumped over to the driver side and we're gonna disconnect the same three things. On this side we're gonna start with the shock just because it gives us a little bit more space to then access that sway bar bolt. With all of the other components disconnected, we're gonna remove our track bar bolt on the back.The last thing that needs to be disconnected and removed before we can droop the axle and remove the springs is the emergency brake line bracket. So, this is just a bracket that helps to organize those brake lines but if you remove it, it gives you a little bit more droop, a little bit more stretch on the brake lines. And this is actually a part that we're not going to be reinstalling as per the instructions, that way if we do go off-road, you want a little bit of additional articulation. You're going to be insured that you're not going to pull those lines taut without that bracket. So we're gonna use a series of extensions on our impact here to get in there and get that bolt removed. At this point, we're ready to lower down that axle so we can pull out the springs and get the spacers installed. Just like in the front, we're also going to remove the factory isolator.With the factory springs removed, we're ready to install the rear spacers. Now these are going to go on the top side of the spring like the front, but unlike the front, these are actually going to bolt in place, so we'll get them set up there. Again, there's still going to be an indexing pin so the rotation gets locked into place but we're going to use the included nut and bolt hardware to bolt this in place. So we're actually going to be dropping the bolt with the washer on it in from the top side of this spring mount, then we'll slide the spacer in place again indexing it where it needs to be and put the nut on the backside. Before we do that, there's also this large C-shaped washer that's going to slide in on the top side of the spring perch, so we have a little bit of assembly to do here before we can tighten down over our spacer.Because the top of the spring perch and the bottom of the tub are so close together, you really can't get this long bolt in there which is why you have this slotted washer. So we'll pass the head of the bolt up through the bottom of the spring perch here through this large hole, then we can slide our slotted washer over the top of the spring perch and center it around the bolt which gives us this setup here. Now we can grab our spacer, slide it into place, with the bolt coming right down through the center, as we said before, rotate it until it snaps into place. There we go. And finally, screw the nut on the bottom and tighten it down. Now we can put our spring back in place with the factory isolator over top of the spacer. As you can see that has a small nub on it right here which is going to index into this hole again, so it's going to set your rotation so it can only be installed one way.Once the spring is in place, again, you want to rotate it so that it sits up into the factory isolator. The tail of the spring will sit right in the little pocket of the isolator and that's exactly where you want it. We'll just tighten up our pole jack a little bit just to hold it so the spring has a little bit of tension on it and it's not going to move on us.With the spring in place, you can rotate it so that the tail of the spring sits in the pocket of the factory isolator exactly where it should just like up front and then we'll put a couple of turns on our pole jack here just to hold a little bit of tension on it so that spring doesn't want to move around while we're doing the rest of the work in the back. So we have that spring all set in its position, the next thing we're going to do is replace the factory jounce bumper before moving over to the passenger side.Just like up front, once you've pulled the factory jounce bumper out of the way, you can push the new one in place. So we're just repeating the same process on the passenger side. Our bolt in there with the washer and get our spacer bolted up.Now that our spring spacers and jounce bumpers are installed, we're going to turn our attention to the shocks before we button up all of the other components and finish up on the rear end here. So we just have to remove the upper shock bolts. Of course, we've already done the lower ones and they're hidden behind this little piece of plastic here. Now you can take the time to remove the small 8-millimeter bolts on the bottom and take this plastic splash shield out of the way or do what we're gonna do and just pull it down, pull it out of the way a little bit. It's gonna flex plenty to be able to get on that 18-millimeter bolt and remove the top shock bolt. Now we'll pull that down, there's the bolt we're looking for right there, so we got our impact on there and get it loosened up.While we're over here on this side, we're gonna reinstall our new Falcon shock using the factory hardware. Once we have the bolt tight, we can just pop our plastic shroud back up into place. Now we can do the same thing over here on the driver side.Before we bolt up our bottom shock bolts, just because this is a big body shock, we're going to build up our sway bar end links to the axle. Again, it's just gonna give us a little better access to the bolts here. So we stored our factory hardware right in the end link itself so we wouldn't misplace any of it, loosen that up. We'll have to pull this sway bar down into place, get our bolt back through, put the nut on it and we'll tighten everything down.While we're over on this side, we will bolt up our lower shock bolt and also our brake line brackets. As you can see a little bit of distance between the bottom shock bolt hole and the bracket on the axle. So we're just gonna jack up our pole jack to get everything lined up. And once that's started, we can tighten that down as well. Again, we'll start with the sway bar, that'll give us the most room to get this bolt tightened. And unlike on the other side where we could just pull the sway bar down, on this side we have to jack the axle up to get the mounting holes to line up. Now just like on the other side, once the shock is secure, you can re-bolt down your brake line bracket.So the last thing we need to do before we put the tires back on the Jeep and get it on the ground is reconnect the rear track bar. But as you may or may not be able to see, we have about half the bolt hole showing so we just need to twist the axle a little bit by using the pole jacks to get it aligned so we can get the bolt through. So what I think we need to do here is just the lower down the passenger side a little bit and that will help to align it.Put factory flag nut on the backside of the bolt and get this tightened down. With the track bar all tightened down, all we have to do is put the tires back on the Jeep and we're done with this installation. So if you are looking for a small lift kit that includes a really high-quality shock that's gonna give you a comfortable ride on-road and a lot of control off, this is going to be a great option for you from Teraflex and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Better Off-Road Experience. Take your 2018-2020 Jeep Wrangler JL on a new off-road experience with this Teraflex 1.5-inch Sport S/T1 Suspension Lift Kit with 2.1 Falcon Shocks. Giving your Jeep an extra 1.50-inch lift, this suspension kit can accommodate tires measuring up to 33-inches in diameter. Combine this with Falcon Series 2.1 Monotube shocks and lift spring spacers and your Jeep Wrangler will be able to go where most people won’t.
Falcon Series 2.1 Monotube Shocks. This Teraflex 1.5-inch Sport S/T1 Suspension Lift Kit come with Falcon Series 2.1 Monotube Shocks. These shocks are designed to improve ride quality on and off the road. These shocks feature a Volume Optimized Damping with a digressive linear valve engineered to produce quicker ramp up to improve control and feedback during low speeds while preventing bottoming out at full compression when driving at higher speeds. The shocks are housed in a 6061-T6 aluminum body and come with a hardened chrome-plated shaft for added durability.
Front and Rear Lift Spring Spacers. This Teraflex 1.5-inch Sport S/T1 Suspension Lift Kit includes front and rear spring spacers to help correct factory nose-down rake and provide additional height to your Wrangler. Specifically, these spacers provide a 1-inch front lift and a 1.50-inch rear lift.
Falcon Progressive Bump Stops. This Teraflex 1.5-inch Sport S/T1 Suspension Lift Kit comes with Falcon Progressive Bump Stops to provide additional protection to your suspension. Crafted from high-density polyurethane, these bump stops can stand up to extreme temperature ranges and will not deform during hard compressions.
Simple No Hassle Installation. Installing Teraflex 1.5-inch Sport S/T1 Suspension Lift Kit requires a simple bolt-on process. No drilling or other types of modification are needed for installation.
Comes With a Lifetime Warranty. Teraflex backs this 1.5-inch Sport S/T1 Suspension Lift Kit with a lifetime warranty on materials and workmanship. For more details, please check the manufacturers’ official site.
Application. This Teraflex 1.5-inch Sport S/T1 Suspension Lift Kit with 2.1 Falcon Shocks fits all 2018-2020 Jeep Wrangler JL 2-door models.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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