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Synergy Manufacturing Heavy Duty Steering Kit (18-23 Jeep Wrangler JL)

Item J135434-JL
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Market Price $1,002.99 You Save 15% ($152.99)
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$850.00 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Merideth: If you're in search of some premium steering components that you can rely on to up the strength and capability of your 2018 or newer JL Wrangler, this Synergy Heavy Duty Steering Kit will be one to check out. Now, this will be a great pick if you're currently working with factory components and want an upgraded replacement if they're starting to show some wear, rather than sticking with an OE-style replacement. Now, this pair will also be good to handle extra loads from oversized tires to put a lot of stress on the steering components. Now, your factory ones usually can't handle those extra loads for long periods of time, especially with trail abuse, when this set will all while increasing your handling and stability.These will be made of a heavy-duty Chromoly steel construction and include heavy-duty ball joints on either end to handle force a lot better, even if you're willing your JL hard. These will also have a great powder coat finish adding a pretty cool look to the front links while also protecting the steel underneath. Now, the heavy-duty ball joints will also include zerk fittings on the back for easy maintenance and the end clamps will feature large heavy-duty hardware to keep a peace of mind that they're gonna stay in place. The drag link here will also be able to convert into a high steer setup while offering a fully adjustable design for fine-tuning. When it comes to the price, this kit will come in at roughly $850, putting this at a pretty premium price point. Now, I do like the fact that this will include both the drag link and the tie rod, making this a one-stop shop rather than you having to pair the two together. Also, the fact that this will be able to be used as a high steer setup, giving you some options and the ability to upgrade whenever you need to.Now, comparing to some others on the page, some may not come with the high steer option, some may not be compatible with certain lift heights, or you will have additional components in the kit compared to this, which it's pretty simple. You do get the drag link and the tie rod as well as all the hardware. Some other kits come with steering knuckles. Now, overall, I think if you're looking for a solid setup that's going to be able to take a toll on the trail and offer a lot of longevity and the stability that you need on the street, then this is a great pick. Now, install will be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about an hour to get the job done with some pretty basic hand tools. You'll also need to get an alignment after completing this install for the best drivability. And speaking of the install, one of our customers here has installed this on their JL and is gonna walk you through what that process looks like. So, that wraps it up for me, let's get into the install.Man: Okay, guys. So here's all the tools that I used for this job. Not too bad, got half-inch drive impact, made it a lot easier with lug nuts and everything. Little extra light for these hard-to-see places, needle nose pliers for getting your cotter pins into place. Crescent wrench is pretty handy for doing the adjustments on the double adjustment nut on the tie rod and drag links, half-inch torque wrench. I've got 21-millimeter, 19-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 13-millimeter, and a 10-millimeter wrench, that way for the old tie rod, nuts, and bolts, everything. Same with the sockets, we've got 22 for the wheels, wheel lock, tape measure for setting your tow, Sharpie actually helps when you're marking your tires just so you know you're going back to the same spot over and over again, 3/4-inch socket and wrench as well for tightening the clamp bolts, pickle fork for fighting that drag link off, and a hammer for just pounding everything in. Yeah. It's pretty simple, not too many tools. And overall, a pretty easy install.All right, guys, today we're gonna be installing a Synergy Tire Rod and Drag Link on a 2019 Jeep Wrangler or Rubicon. So, let's get started. All right, guys, the first step is gonna be tie down your steering wheel just to kind of keep everything solid and straight while you're disassembling all your steering components. Just grab yourself a rag, anything you got to kind of protect your steering wheel so you're not scratching it up. Just take a ratchet strap, or if you have a bungee cord, I just go down to the adjustment bar for the seat. It doesn't have to be too tight and we're just trying to keep it since there's no steering lock on these. Okay. Now that we have the steering tied off, we can go ahead and get it jacked up. Put it in some jack stands so we can get the tires off. All right. Now that we have it all jacked up on the jack stands, we can go ahead and pull the tires. Grab yourself a 22-millimeter and just zip them off. All right. Now that we got the wheels and tires off, we're gonna go ahead and pull the steering stabilizer off of the tie rod. We'll need an 18-millimeter socket and just zip the nut off of the bottom. Pull the bolt out. Just make sure it moves. Sometimes you'll have to use a pry bar to pop it out, depending on how long it's been in.Next, we're gonna grab a 21-millimeter socket and we're gonna break free the tie rod bolt. On the other side, remove the other tie rod bolts. Sometimes they do spin. I'm gonna use two wrenches. Since the stud is spinning, it's easy enough. Just grab yourself a 21-millimeter wrench and a 10-millimeter. Drop it out. All right. Now that we have the tie rod out and kind of lay it next to our new one, you can definitely see some major differences. They remove the bracket for the steering stabilizer. So, when you're installing this, you will end up needing to get a steering stabilizer relocation kit. Got double adjusters on the passenger's side of it. The joints are way different. These are actually movable. They come pre-greased, so you do not need to put any grease in them when you're installing them. Double-check and make sure your boots are actually seated on there really well. This is a double adjuster sleeve, so turning one once it's on the vehicle will extend it, both sides a lot beefier than the stock tie rod. Should be a big improvement.All right. Now, that tie rod is out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and finish removing the steering stabilizer. Grab yourself an 18-millimeter socket or wrench, and we'll set that aside, but we will be reusing that one. Now, the steering stabilizer is off, we'll go ahead and remove the factory mounting bracket that goes to the axle. So, we won't be reusing it on the new tie rod. It's just 3 bolts using a 13-millimeter. All right. Now we're gonna take the drag link off and we're gonna start on the passenger's side, moving this nut with a 21-millimeter socket. Now, this spin too, so we'll switch over to our 21-millimeter and 10-millimeter wrenches. Okay. So, just gonna leave it on there, a couple of threads just to support it while we're taking the other side off. Come over to the driver's side. That's the steering linkage got another 21-millimeter nut sitting on there. So, I just wanna go ahead and remove it. This one might be wedged in there a little tighter than others, so we'll end up using a pickle fork. If you have one, an air hammer would work too. Okay. Now that we have the nut off, we can go ahead and drive our pickle fork in just below the steering linkage.Okay. Now come back on the passenger's side. Just drop it down. Okay. Now that we have our drag link out, you can see the differences between the new Synergy drag link and the stock Jeep drag link. Larger heads, adjustable on both ends compared to our stock, which wasn't. This one is substantially beefier and heavier. But the same with the tie rod and make sure boots are nice and seated. Everything looks good. These are greasable as well, and the stock ones weren't. They were just pre-packed at the factory. They come pre-filled so don't grease it. Just every once in a while, one single pump of grease just to kind of maintain them. Okay. Now we need to go ahead and get our new drag link set up. It comes with all the hardware from Synergy. If you're doing the over-the-top modification to mount your drag link on top instead, it does come with an adapter sleeve and you will have to drill out the mount. But I'm not, I'm just going back with a stock set up with it underneath. So, we are going to go through and get this adjusted. On the pitman arm side, the double adjuster, no more than 3.5 inches from the center line to the edge of the rod. Anything less is fine. And on our knuckle side, we've says to start out with a half-inch, which is pretty much bottom down, and no more than 3 inches on this side.So, we'll take our tape and we're gonna measure center line to center line of our old drag link, which I have got 41 and 5/8. Okay. So, we're gonna come over to our new one. And right at 40 inches. So, we had a little bit of adjusting to do. Okay. So, we know we're about an inch and 5/8 shorter than the stock one right now. So, let me just screw this out. Put this about an extra inch of adjustment and we remeasure. So, now, 41 and 1/4. And more. And when you're adjusting it, make sure you hold the head, that way the double adjuster adjusts both instead of just unthreading just the adjuster nut. 41.5. Almost there. That should [inaudible 00:14:30]. 41 and 5/8. So, now we're at the exact same length as the stock, we can go ahead and start our clamp bolts just to kind of hold everything from pivoting as we're gonna install it on the Jeep. You will have to do some fine-tuning and adjusting once you get it on. For these, you'll just need a 3/4-inch wrench and socket, standard. These are pinch nuts or lock nuts, so I'll take a little more force to put them on. You don't wanna tighten them down all the way, you just wanna snug them just to keep them from flopping around.Okay. We'll go ahead and remove the crown nuts for now. And the kit does come with the spear nut and the cotter pins for locking them in place. Okay. Now we'll go ahead and put it on there. Okay. Now that the drag link has got the initial measurement set, we're gonna go ahead and get it installed. Single adjuster side. We go to our knuckle here. So, bring that up and start the crown nut just to hold it in place. Now I'm going to the other side and get that side started. Okay. I'm gonna take a 21-millimeter wrench and I'm just gonna snug these up for now. All right. So, that side is snugged. Okay. Snugged. Now, when you're adjusting this and aiming it, you want the bend to be pointing straight out, that way it clears everything when you're in full flex. All right. Now that we have the bar on, the bolts are snugged, they do recommend having the slit and the adjuster bolt turn to match the slit in the drag link itself. So, you just kind of hold onto it. Let me grab a crescent wrench and turn. It may mess with your adjustment a little bit, but we can fix that later. We're just trying to get this lined up. Okay. So, slits are lined up.So, now we can go ahead and torque our castle nuts. Okay. We're gonna go ahead and torque those down. So, we're gonna set a torque wrench to 55 foot-pounds. It's a little tricky to sneak it up in there. Okay. So, that side is good. I'm going toward the other end. Same with this side, 21-millimeter torqued to 55 foot-pounds. Okay. So, now I'm gonna double-check and make sure our bend is still forward, bar is sitting where we want, and we're gonna go ahead and torque down our clamp bolts to 90 foot-pounds. And that just takes a 3/4-inch wrench and socket. All right. So, we're gonna go ahead and torque down this side as well, 55 foot-pounds. Okay. Now, we wanna go ahead and install our cotter pins. With these nuts, if you look at the hole, if it's off a little bit, always tighten them to get to the hole, don't loosen it. So, we'll just turn it just a little bit. All right. Just enough. And we can get our cotter pin all the way through and tighten it to get it to line up. Oh, it's right in the middle. Okay. So, make sure the drag link is where we want it. Now we're gonna go ahead and torque down the 2 pinch nuts to 90 foot-pounds. You'll just need a 3/4-inch socket and wrench. [inaudible 00:19:56] Okay. Come on to the other side. Okay. Now we're gonna torque down this one, 90 foot-pounds as well. Ooh.Okay. All right. Now that the drag link is in, we're gonna go ahead and install our new tie rod. Now, Synergy says to start off with the non-adjustable side first. For stock Jeeps, I believe it was 4 turns, for the Rubicon like mine says to thread it all the way in, and then 10 full turns out, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Okay. So, you'll start with that. And then come down here and we're gonna have to measure our old rod and our new rod and preset lengths. Same as the drag link, we're gonna measure it from the center. The center of the pin is exactly 61 inches. Over to the new one, we're sitting 59 and 5/8. So, we'll go ahead and adjust this out. Really close, 60 and 7/8. Here more. Okay. That should just about do it. Now I've got 61 inches. Okay. So, now we'll go ahead and install the pinch bolts just to kind of keep this from moving around too much. Now, Synergy does say the same as their drag links. The measurements, the maximum from center to the edge on the non-adjustable side is your 3 inches and 3.5 inches on the double mount side. Okay. And we'll kind of pre-align the slits if you want.Okay. So, now we're gonna go ahead and install this thing on the Jeep. Okay. We're gonna go ahead and get this thing installed. So, we're gonna have to take it, slide it up in there. I'm gonna run it by hand for now. Let's change over to the other side and then I'll just go ahead and just run this down. Okay. Okay. So, now we're gonna take some initial measurements just to make sure we're not too far off and make it a little faster once we get the wheel and tires installed. In front, I'm looking 66 and 1/4. Okay. Let's go to the back of the caliper. I got [inaudible 00:24:19] just below there. I'm at 65.5. Okay. So, we're definitely off. This is a lot easier to adjust now before we put the wheels and tires on. Okay. So, 3/4 of an inch. Okay. Split it so. Not too far apart, we need to suck this in just a little bit. Go ahead and check it again. It's a lot easier with a second person to help you. Okay. So, we are at exactly 66. Let me go on the backside again. Closer. We're at 65 and 3/4. So, another 1/8 inch or so of adjustment. Let us split the difference in times now...65 and 15/16...65 and 7/8, it's really close. And this is all just initial measurements. We're gonna get there. Okay. We're not gonna torque down the clamp bolts or the castle nuts yet, we're gonna wait. We're gonna get the tires back on this thing and get it all lined up. All right. So, pre-measurements are set and everything is good.So, we'll go ahead and toss our wheels and put it back on here. But we wanna leave it up on the jack stand still so we can be able to rotate the tires around as we're doing our adjustments. And we'll torque all these down once we get the tires back on the ground. Now just snug them up. So, now that we get tires back on, we're still off the ground, so we'll turn. The best way to make a mark, just kind of center line of the tire, follow the rim if it's still there. If not, make a mark on the tire, both sides. And this will just be measuring for the tow so we can make sure we can just rotate the tire around the back side and be able to measure front and rear of the tire. All right. So, now that we've got the marks on the tires, we can go ahead and check it. Best way to do it, sit it and then rotate the tire up until we touch...there it goes, skid plate. All right. [inaudible 00:27:57.565] All right, 64.5. I'm dead on too.All right. Now, I'm gonna go ahead and rotate the tire for that line that's facing the rear. All right. So, now we're at 64 and 3/8. So, we are off just a hair. But fine-tune measurements, we're just gonna grab our double adjuster nut, give it a small turn, and then we'll double-check the measurements again. And take it. And it's not gonna take too much. All right. Let's double-check our measurements. We'll rotate the tires back to the front and repeat the process. It'll be a little bit of back and forth, but we wanna make sure we get it as close as we can. I know some people say you should have at least a 16th of an inch towed in or as if you can perfectly align. All right. So, same with the drag link and the tie rod, the slots that are in the adjustment nut, they want lined up with the slot in the rod because they want a little bit of tow-in, that's 16th of an inch. So, now we'll double-check it and if we're still good on our measurement, we'll go ahead and torque down all of our nuts. All right. So, now we've got our tow end set, I'm gonna go ahead and torque down the castle nut to 55 foot-pounds using our 21-millimeter socket. [inaudible 00:30:00] I can't see. And then we wanna install a cotter pin, making sure we turn to tighten to line up the hole instead of loosening. So, got it. Torque down. Now, oh, how lucky is that?Woman: Oh, look at that.Man: Sometimes you do get lucky. Perfect torque and it has lined up first shot. Hard part's doing this and staying out of the way, so the camera can see. All right. We'll just...all right. So, we'll just spin this around. There we go. Now we do the same for the other side. This side is a lot harder to get to, so we'll just zip the wheel back off, torque it, and then toss it back on. All right. So, we'll go ahead and torque this one down to 55 foot-pounds with our 21-millimeter socket. This is a lot easier to get to now. Okay. Still keep your cotter pin. It holds a little off, so we're gonna turn this one to tighten it just into a...the hole is...oh, there we go. It's lying down there. There we go. So, now we're all torqued down. We'll go ahead and torque our clamp bolts to 90 foot-pounds. All right. So, we'll go ahead and torque these down, 3/4-inch socket, 55 foot-pounds. I am using a 6-inch extension just to make it easier to clear everything. This is one, we'll go over the other side.Yeah. So, let's go ahead and just torque down to 90 foot-pounds as well. Okay. So, now we'll go ahead and toss the other tire back on and get this thing back on the ground. All right. So, go ahead and toss the tire back on. Okay. So, we'll go ahead and lower this back down, get it off the jack stands, and then double-check the tow [inaudible 00:34:27]. So, before we set it back down, just to make it easier to double-check, just rotate your marks back around to where you can see them and we can try and get a nice measurement once we set it back down. So, we just roll the jack back underneath there and get the jack stands out from underneath it.Now that we have it back down on the ground, we'll double-check our tow measurement, and then we'll also double-check our steering wheel alignment to make sure we don't need to adjust anything. We don't have the tie rod clamp back on it. I haven't received it yet. Probably be here tomorrow. Once you have the tie rod, everything tightened down, torqued back on the ground...with this kit, you do not have the steering stabilizing installed yet. So, what we'll have to do is install the relocation kit, which means replacing the bolt on your track bar lower bolt and adding the clamp to the tire rod itself, which is kind of nice because it does mount the steer stabilizer cylinder above the tire rod. It keeps it kind of up out of the way a little bit more. Okay. So, now we'll double-check to make sure we're still towed in that 16th of an inch, which I'm pretty sure we will be. [inaudible 00:36:08] Good. Right at 64 and 7/16. Good? Right at 64.5. So, that puts us 1/16th towed in. So, we are torqued down, lined up, ready for a test drive. Once you're done with the test drive, it is a good idea to take it, re-torque every bolt, double-check everything. Let everything kind of settle, and then double-check the torque again about 100 miles or so.Okay. Go ahead and take the strap off of the steering wheel. Hopefully, our steering wheel alignment is still pretty close, it should be. So, dead center. And it might be off just a little bit, which is an easy enough adjustment. I think we'll test drive it first to make sure everything is settled and kind of get a feel for it with driving to see how far off it is and if it does actually need to be adjusted. Okay, guys, the test drive was good. Everything was straight. Steering wheel is nice and aligned, so there's no further adjustment needed. Now that that's all complete, we're gonna go ahead and install our Synergy stabilizer relocation kit. Got a clamp for the tie rod and a new bolt that takes the place of the lower track bar bolt. That way you have a place to mount the cylinder and then that clamps. Comes with all the hardware, good instructions. So, let's get started.Okay. So, we're gonna start by removing the axle end track bar bolt. And the new bolt from Synergy will take its place so you have to place to mount your cylinder. So, 22-millimeter socket. If you have one, impact, if not, just a ratchet. You will be reusing the flag nut, so make sure you hold onto that. Go ahead and remove the little mount nut or both at the end. Make it easier to go in. And if you noticed, my track bar did shift because of the way I had it parked. So, we just need to either have somebody get in, turn the wheel for you, get it to shift back over, or you can try prying it back over with a pry bar. One other option for lining up this bolt on the track bar since I don't have a second set of hands with me right now, take a floor jack and a block of wood, and right at the frame side track bar mounting bolt, you can get a block of wood in there, put it right up against the edge of the bracket, but not on the track bar itself so the track bar doesn't try to pivot. You can lift up and get the suspension to flex. It'll lift the frame, pull that right over, and be able to put that bolt right in by hand. Okay. So, bolt's all lined up. Grab a new track bar mounting bolt, go ahead and put on the flattened nut on the backside.All right. So, that's started on there good. That bolt is torqued down to 150 pounds. Now, at least Synergy says you should put red Loctite on that bolt. But if you do that with that type of bolt, it will be pretty much a permanent fixture. So, I am not gonna be putting red Loctite on it today because this is just kind of a test. If I like this, maybe I decide I wanna go to something else. There we go, 150 foot-pounds. Now I'm gonna go ahead lowering the jack down now. There we go. So, now I'm going to be reusing the stock steering stabilizer cylinder. So, what we wanna do...if you're doing it by yourself like I am, hop in, turn it all the way over. It will spring back when you shut the motor off. But if you take that into account, you know, compress the cylinder an extra [inaudible 00:41:59.509], release the cylinder half per quarter-inch. It should line up under the clamp. So let's go ahead and get it turned.Okay. Got the wheels turned hard over. Okay. So, now I'm gonna toss this clamp setup on there. There's two holes in the top of this, a half-inch and a 5/8. For this one, we'll be using a half-inch hole. So, we want that half-inch hole towards the steering stabilizer side. So, it'll just sit on there and we'll start our bolts into that. Six bolts that mount it all together. We're just gonna put them in there loose for now just so we can get it lined up. Just use your 1/4-inch Allen wrench or if you have Allen sockets. I'm just using a wrench just get them started. And when you're tightening this down, you gotta make sure you don't get it off to where one side's pinched tight and the other side is wide open. You wanna try and get it as even as you can as you're tightening it down.We have it on there, our smaller half-inch hole towards the stud. Now, I believe we need to drill these out to a full half-inch. Yeah. Both ends of the steering stabilizer, you'll need to take a half-inch drill bit and drill these out to get it to fit over the stud and the half-inch bolt that will be mounting it to the clamp. So, let's do that real quick. All right. So, we'll go ahead and get [inaudible 00:44:25]. All right. Clamp [inaudible 00:44:32] and a vice if you have one. And then we're gonna grab a half-inch drill bit and just open that up a little bit. You wanna slide, drill it all the way through. There we go. So, they should fit on there nicely now.Okay. Now that we have it all drilled out, we're gonna go ahead and get these things installed. Okay. So, with the steering hard to passenger, you're gonna go ahead and get this on there loose for now. Okay. And wanna collapse the cylinder all the way and then...because it kind of bumps back when you shut it off, I'm gonna give it a quarter-inch of extension, and then we'll check it, make sure we don't bind. Once we're off, this will tell us where we need to set a clamp and washer on each side. So, now we'll go ahead, snug up the clamp bolts, making sure we get us a nice even gap from side to side so you know it's clamped on well. Now, the 6 clamp bolts they want torque down to 15 foot-pounds. I'm gonna go 50 on the half-inch mounting bolt. Once those are all torqued and tight, you'll be able to test this thing out. Okay. Everything is tight, let's give it a try.Merideth: So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and the install of the Synergy Heavy Duty Steering Kit, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. For more videos and products just like this, remember to always keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Steering Kit
      • Includes Drag Link and Single Plane Tie Rod
      • Enhances Steering Feel and Handling
      • Adjustable Design
      • Can be Used on High Steer Setups
      • Heavy-Duty Chromoly Steel Construction
      • Grey Powder Coat Finish
      • Trouble-Free Installation
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty on Hard Parts
      • Sold as a Kit
      • Fits All 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL Models


      Upgraded Steering for an Upgraded Setup. Upgrade your Wrangler’s steering feel when you install this Synergy Heavy Duty Steering Kit. This steering kit features a more heavy-duty build when compared to stock to give your Jeep a more solid steering feel and handling. This is particularly helpful when running larger, heavier tires and wheels which tend to make the steering feel sluggish, especially when off-roading. Likewise, its adjustable design enables this kit to fit into axles with different widths. What’s more, the drag link part of this kit can be used in high steer setups with the included drag link flip adjuster and an optional front track bar relocation bracket.

      Heavy-Duty Build Quality. The individual components of this steering kit are manufactured from heavy-duty chromoly steel. Specifically, the drag link is made from 1.50-inch x 0.250-inch walled DOM tubing, while the tie-rod is formed from 1.50-inch x 0.188-inch walled tubular steel. This construction ensures exceptional strength and durability for the open trails. Meanwhile, the tie rod ends feature a metal-on-metal design and is built from high-grade steel with grease fittings and high-quality dust boots. Finally, these components are finished in a durable gray powder coating for excellent corrosion protection.

      Trouble-Free Install Procedure. This steering kit is designed to install into factory locations on your Jeep. No modifications to your vehicle are needed. Also, all necessary hardware is included, and installation is completed using just standard hand tools.

      Backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty. This Synergy steering kit is backed by a limited lifetime warranty covering manufacturing defects on all the hard parts. Please visit the manufacturer’s website for more details.

      Application. This Synergy Heavy Duty Steering Kit fits all 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL models.

      Technical Note. If you are re-using the stock steering stabilizer or a steering stabilizer that uses a 1/2-inch Mounts Bolts, Synergy's Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit, part# 8807-03, is required.



      Synergy Manufacturing 8825-01

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Drag Link Assembly
      • (1) Drag Link Flip Adapter
      • (1) Tie Rod Assembly
      • (2) Double Adjuster Sleeve
      • (4) Mounting Bolts
      • (4) Lock Nuts

      Customer Reviews (3)

        Brand Image

        Reviews of Synergy Manufacturing Suspension products have an average rating of 4.7 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My Wrangler

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