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Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit (05-22 4WD Tacoma)

Item TT2118
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Market Price $235.69 You Save 13% ($30.74)
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$204.95 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hi, guys. So today, we're checking out these Supreme Suspensions 2-inch Front 2-inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit, fitting all 2005 and newer 4-Wheel Drive Toyota Tacomas. So if you're looking to add a little bit of extra height to your truck, a more aggressive stance, and some better ground clearance for off-road, this kit by Supreme Suspensions is definitely one that you'll want to take a look into. When it comes to what size tire you can fit with this lift kit, I would recommend a 31-inch tire, either the stock one or a more aggressive 31. You won't need to do any modifications to fit a more aggressive 31-inch tire and will have plenty of clearance. Now if you wanted to run a 33-inch tire with this kit, you will need to do some modifications. Otherwise, you're gonna have some rubbing issues. The clearance will still be a little tight with 33s. So this will best be suited for on-road driving only.Now, this kit is going to include two spacers for the front strut, two spacers for the rear leaf springs. This is also going to include a drop bracket for the differential and a drop bracket for the skid plate. Now, these are going to accomplish that better ground clearance that I was talking about, perfect for somebody who is looking to take their truck off-road and wants to clear obstacles a little bit better than their stock suspension. Now this is also going to open up some room in the wheel wells for more aggressive wheels and tires. And, of course, it's going to eliminate that rake and overall create a more defined and aggressive stance out of the Tacoma.So I would like to call out right off the bat that the spacer itself for the front is going to measure in at 1-inch. As you can see, it is a little bit smaller than our rear block here. Now, the reason why it gives a 2-inch lift is because of the factors of suspension geometry and spring compression after the installation is done. So even though it is a 1-inch spacer, it will accomplish 2 inches of lift in the front because of those factors. So I would just keep that in mind when you are looking at lift kits. Now with that being said, these are going to be very durable, made of a billet aluminum construction. And that's going to ensure that they're gonna hold up for a very long time when they're mounted onto your truck. And they also are gonna have a nice black anodized finish on top to protect the aluminum underneath from any corrosion.Now, speaking of pricing, this will come in at roughly $250. And in my personal opinion, I think that that's a good price point for what's included. Now, again, this kit is going to include a spacer for the front, the rear, and for the differential, as well as the skid plate as to where some less expensive choices are only going to either include a spacer for the front and not for the rear or they're not going to have those accommodating spacers for the other components that are not directly related to the suspension itself. Now, on the other hand, when we take a look at some more expensive choices, those are usually just going to have some more components included in the kit. So as compared to what you see here, it may come with some additional spacers for some other components or it may come with control arms, or shocks, and so on. So if you're looking for a straightforward kit, in my opinion, if you're looking for something that's not necessarily gonna break the bank, but is still going to accomplish the goals that you're looking for out of your truck, like better ground clearance or just overall an aggressive stance with a quality kit, then this is gonna be a great choice.Now as far as install's concerned, this is going to be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Again, it is a pretty straightforward kit. You are gonna need some pretty basic hand tools to get the job done and probably four hours worth of your time. So speaking of that install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for this install were a can of PB B'laster, pair of needlenose pliers, pair of vise grips, pneumatic impact wrenches, a tape measure, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a flathead screwdriver, a breaker bar, couple of pry bars, a ball-peen hammer, a dead blow, a punch, a trim removal tool, a 7/8-inch wrench, 19-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 14-millimeter wrench, 19-millimeter swivel socket, a socket set ranging from 22 millimeters down to 10 millimeters, a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a marker, a pick, a 3-inch extension, an angle grinder, a pair of safety glasses, painters tape, a cut-off wheel, and an electric impact wrench.So the first step of our install is to get the truck up in the air and supported. Now I have it on a lift here but if you are at home, you can use a jack and jack stands for this install. And then our next step is to take off our front tire. Now, I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket and my spline key. However, the tool that you use may depend on what lug nut size that you have.So after the tire is off, what we can do at this point is address our brake lines. There's gonna be a brake line bracket on the spindle, one on this frame, and then we're gonna have one on the upper control arm. For this step, you're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter socket. So I'm gonna remove the bracket on the spindle first using a 12-millimeter socket. And I'm also using a 3-inch extension to give myself a little bit of room next to this brake caliper here. Once that's removed, you can take out the little hook that's in the spindle and we can just push it back. This is going to allow us to remove our spindle from this upper control arm and not have our brake lines affected, stressed out, or taut in the meantime. We wanna keep those protected just because we don't want to break them, we would have to replace them if so. Next, we can remove the brake line bracket on the frame. I'm also gonna use that 12-millimeter socket and the 3-inch extension. So what we can do now is remove the brake line from our upper control arm. Now, what I'm gonna do is remove the bracket as a whole, but you can then back these tabs and remove the line from there. I just find it easier to just remove the whole bracket. So I'm using a 10-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna take out that bolt.So what we can do at this point is remove the cotter pin in the outer tie rod. We do need to disconnect this from the knuckle or the spindle here in order to get our strut out. So I'm gonna take a pair of needlenose pliers. I also sprayed this with PB B'laster just to loosen that up, but I'm gonna take that pair of needlenose pliers and I'm gonna go ahead and remove that cotter pin. What we can do at this point is remove the castle nut up top. I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket to remove that nut there. So the outer tie rod might not drop out right away. What we can do at this point is take the castle nut and thread that on a couple of threads. And then we can take a hammer and just hit the side of the knuckle or the side of the spindle here, and it should release that ball joint. So now that the ball joints released from the knuckle here, what we can do is just remove it completely, thread that back on because we'll be reattaching that a little bit later, and then we can disconnect our sway bar.What we can do next is remove the sway bar end link from our spindle. I'm gonna be using a 17-millimeter socket and we can remove this nut. Now if the ball joint decides it wants to spin, what we can do is just take that pry bar that we used before and just give it some outward pressure and it should stop it from spinning. So if you are unable to get the hardware for the sway bar end link off with a 17-millimeter socket and that impact wrench, what you can do is remove it with a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a ratchet, and a 17-millimeter wrench. This is just going to allow you to keep the ball joint still while you are removing that hardware. If you do use an impact wrench, sometimes that can move. And even if you put pressure on it, sometimes it just keeps spinning. So, this is an alternative method that works pretty well, just takes a little bit longer. So I'm gonna use that 17-millimeter wrench. Gonna put that on the nut side and same with the 6-millimeter Allen socket, and we can manually remove that. Once that's removed, we'll be able to remove our sway bar from our spindle.So the sway bar end link wanted to stay in the spindle. In order to get it out, what I'm gonna do is just take a punch and we can put that where we put the 6-millimeter Allen socket. I'm also gonna take a dead blow and we can just have that out. So now what we can do is remove the upper control arm ball joint from our spindle here. Now, we need to remove this cotter pin, I'm gonna use the same pair of needlenose pliers that I used before. After the cotter pin is removed, we can remove the castle nut. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter swivel socket. So what I'm gonna do is take that completely off, then I'm gonna thread it back on, just a couple of threads. Again, we have to tap the ball joint out of the spindle because the ball joint is tapered. So it usually just sticks there like it did with the other two. So, again, we're gonna have to take a ball-peen hammer and tap that out of the spindle. Now the nut there is gonna catch it. That's why we thread it on a little bit. So, once that pops out of place, what we can do is continue to remove that 19-millimeter nut. And now, when we do this, the spindle is going to fall. Just make sure that you have a handle on the spindle. We're gonna carefully lay it to the side because we will need to remove our strut assembly in just a couple minutes. But we don't want to stress out any of the joints, any of the brake lines, we wanna make sure that those are protected. Make sure you keep a handle on this. As you can see, that is disconnected. Now, what we have to do is repeat that process on the other side because we will need to move our sway bar out of the way in order to remove our strut assembly.So after you've taken apart the other side, what we can do is start to work on our strut assembly. We're gonna have three studs at the top. I'm gonna take a 14-millimeter socket and I'm gonna remove that hardware up there. So after the hardware is taken out of the top of the strut, what we can do is take out this lower strut bolt. Now for this, I have a 19-millimeter wrench and 19-millimeter deep socket. And I would also recommend that you support the lower control arm when doing this. Now, to remove this bolt, you might have to play with the height of the control arm itself. So it looks like we'll need to raise it just a hair. So what I just did was lowered this down a little bit. Like I said, you will have to kind of play with the height of the lower control arm in order to get this bolt loosened up so that you can just push it right through. So what I'm gonna do is just push that bolt through and remove it. So what you can also do just like we did with the sway bar is just take a punch. This makes it a little bit easier if it doesn't wanna come out fully by hand. You can just tap it through. Now, again, we're gonna have to kind of mess with the height here. You may have to move the spindle around in order to do this. And we also are going to have to get this outer tie rod and the sway bar out of the way to remove our strut assembly.So, in order to make room to remove the strut assembly, what I did was pull the sway bar all the way down. The sway bar end link does have to pass that axle. So once it's pulled all the way down, the tie rod is pulled that most of the way out. What we can do is just push the strut towards our brake rotor here or towards the spindle. And we should be able to just pop that out of the way. So once our strut assembly is out on this side, what we can do is repeat that process on the other side, and then we can install our spacers.So now that the struts are out of the truck, what we can do is add our strut spacers. Now, these are gonna have a couple of cutouts for our studs on top of our struts. And they're just gonna sit right on top. So you can line these up with the factory studs, put those on over, and then we can secure it down with our factory hardware. And I would like to mention that the top of this spacer is going to sit flush on the strut perch there. So you wanna make sure that the studs are not exceeding the height of the spacer. Now the Tacoma studs do have a little point to them. If you do have to grind them down, I would highly recommend that. I've already done that and taken care of that. So, what we're gonna do at this point is secure down our spacer with our factory hardware. Now I also like to take a 14-millimeter socket and just thread that in by hand, and then we can tighten them up in just a second.Once those are threaded on by hand, we can take an impact wrench, tighten those up. You could also use a hand ratchet. Then we can repeat that for the other strut. So now that our spacers are installed, what we need to do next before we install our strut is to drop our differential. So, what we can do now is head over to the truck.So in order to drop our differential, we will have to remove our skid plate. Now it's gonna be held on by four bolts. And I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket to remove them. So there's gonna be two at the front. Again, I'm using that 12-millimeter socket to remove them. Now when you remove the front ones, there's gonna be a couple hooks up here that are gonna hold it in and then we can remove the ones in the back. Then we can remove the two on the back. Now, once we remove these, the skid plate is gonna drop down. But again, they are hanging on the hooks up front. So just be mindful of that. So at this point, now that our skid plate is fully disconnected, we can just unhook it from these hooks in the front and put it to the side.So now that the skid plate is removed, that's gonna expose the arm to our differential that's connected to our crossmember here. Now, in between the crossmember and the differential is where we're gonna add our spacer, and this is going to accommodate for that added height that we're adding to our Tacoma. Now, on the driver side, you can see the skid plate reinforcement bracket is gonna be in the way of that differential arm. We do have to drop it down a decent amount because this is a pretty big spacer. So what we're gonna have to do is modify this. We have to just cut a little bit of this lip off in order for that differential arm to drop down far enough. So first, before we take that off, I'm just gonna make a mark on where we need to cut it, just taking a marker, just making a mark. And then once that is there, we can grab a 17-millimeter socket and remove the 4 bolts that are holding this on. Now, this is only gonna be a problem on the driver side. The passenger side should be able to drop down with no modification and no problem at all. So we need to remove the two bolts in the back and two in the front. I'm gonna start with the rear bolts using a 17-millimeter socket. Then we can remove the front ones. So after the bracket is removed, we can head over to the vise and cut our support bracket.So now that the bracket's off the truck, I did put it in a vise and we are ready to cut off this piece to allow our differential to drop. And I did put a piece of painters tape on here just to give you guys a better look at where we're cutting because it's hard to see black marker on black paint, but we are gonna be about 3.5 inches from the back of the bracket in and then about one and a quarter inches up. So I'm gonna be using my cut-off wheel for this. I recommend a pair of safety glasses as well and just make sure that your cut-off wheel is good to cut. I'm just using a pair of vise grips to bend off that last part and then we can clean it up. I'm just gonna take an angle grinder and clean this up a little bit. This point, we can just take that tape off and hit it with a little bit of spray paint, just to make sure that there's no rusting or corrosion happening on that bare metal. Don't really have to get this part, but.So while our bracket is drying, what we can do in the meantime is drop our differential. Now I have a pole jack that supporting the weight of our differential. And we do need to remove the two bolts up at the front. I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket as well as a 19-millimeter wrench in order to remove those and then we can go ahead and fit in our spacer. So I'm gonna take a 19-millimeter wrench for the top of the crossmember here and that 22-millimeter socket for the bottom bolt. We can do the same thing for the other bolt very carefully because once this is removed, then the differential is disconnected from our crossmember here. So what we can gonna do at this point is slowly adjust the height of our differential. I'm gonna lower our pole jack here. Now, this is gonna create a gap in between each arm. As you can see, it already kind of created a gap on the passenger side one. So, again, very carefully, just lower the diff, then we'll be able to fit that spacer in. I'm gonna start with the passenger side. So now that the spacer's in place, what we can do is take our provided bolt, this is gonna be longer than our factory bolt to accommodate for that spacer, and our nylon lock nut that is provided in the kit. You can put that up through the arm, through our spacer, and then through the crossmember. Now I'm gonna just thread this on a couple threads because we still have to drop the diff just a little bit in order to fit our driver side on. [inaudible 00:24:32.884] put this in. Just repeat what we did on the passenger side. At this point, our spacers are in and we can tighten it up. So, instead of using that 22-millimeter socket, we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket. We're also gonna use a 7/8-inch wrench.After we have our spacers in, we can reinstall our skid plate reinforcement bracket. I'm going to take the factory hardware and just thread that into place. It's those four 17-millimeter bolts. And as you can see, where we cut this clears perfectly with our differential arm here. So now we can take a 17-millimeter socket and tighten those up. Next, we can install our skid plate. I'm gonna start by hanging it on the hooks in the front. So now we can take our factory bolts and thread those into the front. And we're gonna have provided bolts for the rear. Now for the back two mounting locations, because we dropped this, we'll need to add another spacer. This is just going to go right over the factory mounting location. And I'm gonna do the same thing for the other side. And once that's on there, what we can do is take our provided hardware, which is a longer bolt and also that washer, and we can thread this into place. And we're gonna do this on either side. So we can tighten up the back bolts with a 13-millimeter socket. Last but not at least for the skid plate, what we can do is tighten up those front bolts using that 12-millimeter socket we used to remove them.So now that we've taken care of the differential, what we can do is install our struts with our spacers on top. So you wanna make sure that the two bolt holes, our mounting locations are facing the outside of the truck and the one is facing in, just wanna make sure that the bottom mount is going to line up with the top mounting locations. So we're just gonna put the strut in exactly how it came out, wiggle it around the sway bar, and get that into that mounting location there. What we can do now is take our factory lower strut bolt and we can pop that through. You might have to tinker with the height of the lower control arm. You can use a pole jack or a jack stand or a floor jack to do so. What I'm gonna do is just pop that bolt through. If you need to, you can use the punch and the dead blow that we used before just to pop that through the other side. And we can secure that down with the factory washer and bolt. Now we're not gonna tighten this up just yet. Then we can secure that down with the factory bolt and we can tighten down our strut assembly and move to the other side. Next, we can tighten up this lower bolt here. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, you may need a 19-millimeter wrench as well if the bolt head spins. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not. Next, we can move up top. Next, we can take a 16-millimeter socket and we can tighten up those top bolts.So after you've installed at the strut on the other side, we'll be able to move the sway bar freely so we can get it back into its place. But first, we're going to attach our spindle here. So we're just gonna pop the spindle back up into place so we can attach it to the upper control arm. So once you have the spindle lined up with the upper control arm, you may have to loosen the upper control arm in order to get this to fit or just drop down far enough in order for you to get a couple threads. You can raise up on the lower control arm. Just be mindful of your lift points when you're doing this. So I'm just using a small pry bar just to pry down on the upper control arm just so we can get a couple of threads on. Now, it might be helpful to loosen the upper control arm in order to get it to drop down far enough or you could use a small pry bar like I just did. And then what we can do at this point is tighten down this nut here and reattach our cotter pin so it's set at the correct angle, and then we can button up our sway bar end link as well as our outer tie rod.I'm gonna use that 19-millimeter swivel socket that we originally used to remove this. Then we can take our cotter pin, put that through, make sure that it hooks on part of that castle nut. All right. We can install our sway bar end link and our outer tie rod. Then making sure that the sway bar end link is at the correct height, which it should be if the other side is attached, we can put that through our spindle, take our factory nut, thread that on, then we can tighten that up with a 17-millimeter socket. So now we can align our outer tie rod. You may have to move the knuckle itself back and forth in order to get this lined up. Then we can take our factory castle nut, thread that on. We can take a 19-millimeter socket and tighten that up. And once that's tightened up, you want to make sure that the castle nut aligns with the hole on the stud there on the ball joint because we have to put in a new cotter pin. And I recommend to put in a new cotter pin because the old ones do get pretty rusty and they wear out. I'm just using a pair of needlenose pliers. When the cotter pin's through, you just wanna make sure that you bend back the longer part, just to make sure that it stays in place. Once that's in place, what we can do is reattach our brake lines.First, we can attach our brake line bracket on the spindle, thread that factory bolt in by hand, tighten that up with a 12-millimeter socket. Next, we're gonna attach our upper control arm brake line bracket and the one that's on the frame. I'm gonna do the control arm bracket first using that 10-millimeter bolt that we originally used. And I'm also going to use a 10-millimeter socket to tighten that up. Next, we can attach the brake line bracket that's on the frame here. I'm gonna be using that 12-millimeter factory bolt and 12-millimeter socket. So once you finished up on this side, you would repeat the same process on the other side. Then we're gonna throw our tires back on and then head to the rear.So now that we're in the rear, the first few things that you wanna do is take off the rear tires and you also want to support the rear axle. Now we will be dropping it down. So, if you are at home on a jack and jack stands, I recommend using a floor jack as well as jack stands to support that rear axle. Because I'm using a lift, I'll be using the pole jacks here. But our first step after those are taken care of is to disconnect our emergency brake line. So over on the side, we are going to have a bracket that's connected to our leaf spring that's holding our e-brake line. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket to remove the bolt that's holding that bracket on. That'll give us a little bit of room to work with when it comes to lowering our axle. So next, we can remove the lower shock bolt. Now we don't need to remove the shock, we just need to disconnect it from the axle to drop our axle or allow the axle to drop. So I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter wrench and a 17-millimeter socket to remove that bolt. So you might have to kind of play with the axle height in order to loosen that up or get it to wiggle out, put a little pressure on it, then you can pull it out of the mount itself. Now that our shock is disconnected, what we can do is disconnect the U-bolts that are holding on our leaf spring. Now, this is where we are going to insert our blocks. We want to remove at the U-bolts completely. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter socket and my impact wrench to remove the hardware that's holding on our U-bolts. I also recommend to hit it with a little bit of PB B'laster just because these can get pretty rusty.So once the hardware and the bottom plate is removed, what we can do is just remove our U-bolts. What we can do at this point is carefully lower down our axle so we can fit in our block here. So the alignment dowel is going to sit in the mount on the axle, and then there's gonna be a hole up at the top for the factory one. Now in order to get that aligned, you may have to kind of shift the axle or you could also move the leaf spring. I find it a little bit easier to move the axle. What we can do at this point is take our provided U-bolts. These are going to be longer to accommodate for that 2-inch block. We're gonna put that over the bracket up on top of our leaf spring that holds them in place. Now once those are there, we can take our factory mount or our factory bracket and we can align this with our U-bolts. Because the U-bolts are new, you may have to actually pinch the U-bolts in order to get them to slide through the bracket. You also wanna make sure that this curve is sitting right on the curve of the axle here. You may push the rear one out of place. It's fine, we can just move it back and do the same thing. Just kind of pinch it to get it through. You wanna make sure that it's sitting flush with the axle and then that the U-bolt at the top is sitting inside the hooks on that upper bracket. So it should stay in place for the time being because the U-bolts are pushing outward. So then we can grab our provided hardware, which is gonna be the four flat washers and four nuts and we can thread those onto the bottom of the U-bolt. What we can do at this point is take a 22-millimeter socket. We're gonna tighten up these bolts in a star pattern or a crisscross pattern.So now we can reconnect our shock using the factory hardware. You're gonna have to lift the axle up. And when you're doing this, I would just keep an eye on your lift points, so you don't wanna push the truck off the lift. So what we can do now is attach the bottom part of our shock with the factory hardware. Now we will have to manipulate the height of the axle. You're gonna have to raise it up. When you're doing this, I would just keep an eye on your lift points on the truck. You don't wanna push the truck off of those points. Once that's on there, though, we can tighten it up with a 17-millimeter wrench and socket. So since the U-bolts are a little bit longer, what I'm gonna do is use that 17-millimeter socket with my breaker bar on the bolt head side and my 17-millimeter wrench on the nut side.So now that our shock is reconnected, our next step would be to reconnect our emergency brake line bracket. Now because we added 2 inches of lift, this dropped the axle, and the bracket is not lining up properly to the leaf spring. Now, with this, you don't necessarily have to reconnect this bracket because there's less slack now that the axle is dropped. There's also a secondary bracket that's up on the frame. So if you'd like to cut this off, you can definitely do so with a cut-off wheel. I'm not gonna cut our bracket, but you can take a cut-off wheel and get this bracket off of there. Now, at this point, what we can do is put on our tires. We're all wrapped up with the lift kit. So what I would recommend is to torque everything down to spec and to take your truck for an alignment, and then you'll be all set to go.So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this, and always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • Front and Rear Lift Blocks
      • Provides 2-Inch Lift in the Front, 2-Inch in the Rear
      • Increase Ride Height Without Compromising Ride Quality and Comfort
      • CNC Machined Aircraft-Grade Aluminum Billet Blocks
      • Hard Anodized Finish to Prevent Rusting
      • Accommodates Up to 33x12-Inch Tires
      • Bolt-On Installation
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits All 2005-2022 4WD Toyota Tacoma Models with 6 Lugs

      Description

      Increase Ride Height Without Compromising Ride Quality and Comfort. Usually, when you alter your vehicle’s default ride height, the ride quality suffers. It becomes stiff, and you feel every pothole or hump that you go through. With the Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front/2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit, you don’t have that kind of problem. This kit is highly recommended for 4WD trucks with independent front suspension, like your Tacoma. This lowers your front differential and reduces the excess wear on CV joints and axles by correcting the driveline angle changes caused by lifting the front of your truck. You retain the original ride quality and comfort of your Tacoma, and still enjoy the benefits of having it lifted.

      Aircraft-Grade Aluminum Construction. The Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit is made from high-quality materials for their strength and durability. The lift blocks are CNC machined from solid billet aircraft-grade T6 aluminum. This makes the end product lightweight and more durable than lift blocks made from common welded metal. Topping it off, the lift blocks have a hard anodized coat that protects against rusting. The kit is completed with high-grade hardware and extended OEM spec zinc-plated U-bolts.

      Straightforward Bolt-On Installation. This Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit is relatively straightforward to install. It bolts on using the included installation hardware, without any welding. With rear shocks, installing this will require tab grinding. Even with basic or intermediate mechanical skills, completing this installation can take just around 4 hours for the front and rear combined. Do note that an alignment is always recommended after altering the height of your vehicle.

      Limited lifetime Warranty. This Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit is warrantied to be free from manufacture and material defect for as long as the original purchaser owns the vehicle. The lifetime warranty is non-transferable and proof of purchase may be requested upon redemption of warranty privileges.

      Application. The Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front/2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit is designed to fit all 2005 to 2022 4WD Toyota Tacoma models with 6 lugs.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Supreme Suspensions TYTA05FK2020A

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Lift Billet Spacers
      • (3) Front Skid Plate Spacers
      • (2) Differential Drop Spacers
      • (2) Rear Billet Lift Blocks Anodized Black
      • (4) Zinc Plated U-Bolts
      • Installation Hardware
      • Installation Instructions
      4.8

      Customer Reviews (90)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Tacoma

        • 2.7L I4 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22
        • 3.5L V6 - 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22
        • 4.0L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15