(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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Merideth: If you're tired of the factory stance that your 2005 or newer 6-Lug Toyota Tacoma has to offer and you're ready to increase your suspension's performance, this Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted Stress and V2 Monotube Shocks will be a great kit to take a look at. Now, this will be an all-inclusive kit tailored to the on and off-road driver who wants that lift height that's on the more aggressive side while maintaining comfort in their day-to-day drives. This will also be a good choice if you're searching for a kit to fit up to a 33-inch tire for better performance off-road and a more defined appearance on-road for your truck.This kit is going to do wonders here when it comes to adding height to your rig to increase ground clearance and bettering your approach break over and departure angles, but also in the way that this kit balances responsiveness and comfort. Now, the included shocks and struts will offer more responsive dampening for tougher terrain while maintaining a smooth and comfortable ride on-road. Now, again, this kit will come with everything that you need to lift your Tacoma, and then correct your suspension geometry for factory-like angles, again, maintaining that factory-like ride quality.Now, this kit is going to be designed and constructed very well with preloaded struts for the front to get that 3.5 inches of lift with a robust construction, featuring a tough aluminum body with a silver powder coat, a 1 3/8-inch bore, and a leak-proof piston seal with impressive variable dampening. Now, the rear shocks will offer the same durability and tough fill with a monotube nitrogen charge design with a 46-millimeter internal floating piston to reduce any cavitation or foaming that can potentially form inside of a shock and cause shock fade. So, these are going to resist that, especially if you're taking your truck off-road and working the shock really hard.Now, these will also have a T-6061 aluminum body for good heat dispersion, and again, that tough build. Now, the upper control arms here are gonna top it all off with a forged aluminum build, which will offer easier alignment adjustments and stronger rubber bushings and factory to reduce any brittleness over time. Now, you're also gonna get some lift blocks with this kit. These are gonna measure out to 2 inches on that solid axle in the rear. That is going to create a leveled look for your Tacoma. And these are gonna be made of a dense plastic material, so they are going to be very durable and hold up well to that load in the back. This is also gonna come with all of the hardware and everything else that you need in order to get this onto your truck for a straightforward install.Now, when it comes to price, this is going to be more on the affordable side when it comes to other all-inclusive lift kits in the category. This will come in at about $1,200. And I say affordable in the fact here that you're getting a full shock and strut replacement, you're getting coils for the front, so you're not getting spacers to get that lift. You're also gonna get upper control arms and everything else that you need to create that 3.5 inches of lift and maintain it very well.Now, I think if you're looking for that middle ground when it comes to a suspension kit, you're looking to replace some of those worn-out components while getting that lift in the meantime, and again, you're really focused on maintaining a good ride quality. When getting 3.5 inches of lift, then this is going to be an incredible way to do it. As you can probably assume, installing this is going to be a little bit tougher and a bit lengthy, so I am gonna give it a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about six hours to get the job done. Now, at this point, we can head over to the shop and check out a detailed breakdown of the install and what it looks like step by step. So, that's gonna wrap it up for me. Let's go ahead and get into it.Instructor: Tools required for this install include a couple different size air guns, an impact gun, an electric ratchet, a flathead screwdriver, a hand ratchet, a 14, 15, and 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 17 and 19-millimeter wrench, a couple different size extensions, a pair of vice grips, a pry bar, a caliper hanger, a clip remover tool, a pair of needle-nose pliers, a 10, 12, 17, 19, 21, and 22-millimeter socket, a couple different size swivel adapters, a 6-millimeter Allen bit, a hammer, and a rubber mallet, and a pole jack.What's up, guys? Today we're installing a lift kit on our Tacoma. So, let's get started. So, our first step is to remove our brake line bracket from our knuckle. It's held in by a 12-millimeter bolt, so we'll grab a 12-millimeter socket to take that out. Then we'll just pop our bracket out of the way, and throw our bolt back into the knuckle so we don't lose it. Now, right above that bolt we removed for our brake line bracket, we can remove the 17-millimeter nut on our sway bar end link. So you can take a 17-millimeter socket to remove this. If the ball joint starts to spin, you can get in the hex cutout on the stud with a 6-millimeter Allen bit to hold it in place.Next, we can remove our tie rod end. So we can grab a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend back our cotter pin and remove it. And then once we have our cotter pin removed, we can grab a 19-millimeter socket to remove our castle nut. And then we can leave that on a few threads. And we're gonna take a hammer and bang on the knuckle here to pop our ball joint free. And then we can fully remove our castle nut, and slide our tie rod end out of our knuckle. Next, we can remove our upper ball joint from our knuckle. So, once again, we'll get a pair of needle-nose pliers for our cotter pin. And then we can take a 19-millimeter socket to remove the nut. I'm using a swivel adapter here to get in there easier. And then we'll also leave that one on a couple threads. And then we can take our hammer and bang on the knuckle. And then we can fully remove our nut.Next, we can remove our lower strut bolt. So, we're gonna grab a 19-millimeter wrench on our bolt side and a 19-millimeter socket on our nut side to take this out. And then we can tap out our bolt with the hammer. And if that bolt doesn't wanna come out, you can get a pry bar just to get the levers you need to pull it out. Next, we can take a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench to remove the three nuts at the top of our strut. Now we're gonna get that back one out first just because it's harder to get to, and the two in the front will hold it in place so that you can just screw it off by hand. Make sure not to drop this into the pit of no return. And then just hold the strut as you take off that last nut.And now with our upper and lower strut mounts removed, we can maneuver our strut out of place. Now, once you have your strut removed on one side, you're gonna repeat that same process on the other side. Now, to remove our upper control arm, the first thing we need to do is remove these two covers. So, it's just held in by a bunch of push clips. So we'll get a clip remover tool just to pop these out.Then next, we have a 10-millimeter bolt that holds in our ABS line bracket. Now we can grab that 10-millimeter socket. Let's take that bolt out. And now we have the fun task of removing the super-long bolt. So, we'll get a 19-millimeter socket on the nut side and a 19-millimeter wrench on the bolt side to get our nut off. And then we'll pop off our washer. And now we're gonna have to start sliding our bolt behind this inner lip of the fender here. You might have to grab a pair of vice grips to pull back on the metal. So, we'll start feeding that through. Might have to get some wires pushed out of the way. And then we can do that same thing on the other side.Next, we can remove our splash guard that's held in by a bunch of 10-millimeter bolts. There are two tucked away on the inside of the splash guard on either side, so we'll get those first, and then remove the whole bunch of them across the front. So, we'll grab a 10-millimeter socket and take these out. And then we can do that same thing for the two inner bolts on the other side. So, now, coming to the front, we can remove the rest of our 10-millimeter bolts.Next, we can remove our skid plate. We've got four 12-millimeter bolts that hold it in, so we'll grab a 12-millimeter socket to take these out. And then we can just pop these off our two hooks, and remove it. So, now, with everything removed, we can install the spacers for our front differential. So, we have a 22-millimeter bolt on the bottom as well as a 19-millimeter nut up top. So we're gonna grab a 22-millimeter socket for our bolt and a 19-millimeter wrench for our nut. Now, make sure you have something supporting the bottom of the differential so it doesn't just fall down. I've got a pole jack here. So, I'll grab our tools and get these out. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side.And then we can start to lower our pole jack. And so we have enough room to get our spacer in. And now in this kit, we get longer bolts to account for that spacer as well as nuts. So, we're gonna grab our big washer that goes on the other side of our bushing, slide our bolt with a flat washer through that, put that up through the hole, and then we'll get another flat washer and our nut on the top. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. And then we can raise our differential back up.Now, our new hardware is gonna be that same 19-millimeter nut up top, but our bolt has changed to a 19-millimeter. So we'll grab a 19-millimeter socket and a 19-millimeter wrench to tighten these down. And then once we have our bolts tightened down, we can release the pressure with our pole jack. Next, we can install our new upper control arm. Before we get our upper control arm in there, we're gonna fish our bolt up and into place. Now, if you're having trouble getting it in, you can grab your vice grips.Let's pull back on the fender. And then we can grab our washer and our nut for the other side. And then we'll get our 19-millimeter wrench on our bolt side, and our 19-millimeter socket on our nut side to tighten that down. Next, we can reinstall our ABS bracket into our upper control arm. We get a nice new bolt for this, so we'll thread that in, and we'll use our 10-millimeter socket to tighten that down. And then we can do that same thing on the other side.Next, we can install our strut. So, we'll raise this up into place, and then we can install our nuts onto our studs, and we'll get our back one on. Again, being careful not to drop it into the abyss. Next, we can get our lower strut bolt into place. So, we can just lift up on our lower control arm. You can also use a pry bar to lift up the lower control arm to make it a little easier. And then we'll thread our washer and nut on the other side. And then we can grab our 19-millimeter wrench on our bolt side, and our 19-millimeter socket on our nut side to tighten that down.And now we can go back up top and tighten down our three nuts. Now, the new nuts are gonna be 15 millimeters rather than the 14s, so we'll get a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench and tighten these down. Now, I'm doing these front two first so that we can hand-tighten the nut in the back since it's harder to get to. And then just finish it off with our wrench. So, next we can raise our knuckle back up to our upper ball joint, so we'll pull our protective cover off of our threads. So, now, I grab the pry bar to pry down on our upper control arm so that we can get our new nut onto our stud. And then we can release our pry bar and grab our 21-millimeter socket to tighten down our nut.Next, we can reinstall our tie rod end into our knuckle. So, we'll remove our castle nut and then we'll slide that into place. Reinstall our castle nut onto the studs. We'll take our 19-millimeter socket to tighten that down. And then you're gonna wanna line up the slots in the castle nut with the hole in the stud. You're always gonna want to tighten here and never loosen. And then once you have that lined up, you can reinstall your cotter pin, and then you'll bend the ends back around the stud just like that. Next, we can reinstall our sway bar end link as well as our brake line bracket. So, we'll pull the nut off of the end of our end link and slide it in through the knuckle and then get our nut on the other side.And then we can tighten this down with a 17-millimeter socket, or if the ball joint spins, we use a 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench with a 6-millimeter Allen to hold the stud. And then we can pull our bolt for our brake line bracket out of the knuckle, slide our bracket back into place, thread our bolt in, and then grab a 12-millimeter socket to tighten that down. And now at this point, you can repeat the same process on the other side. Now we can reinstall our skid plate. So, we'll put that onto our hooks first, and then we can reinstall our four bolts. And then we'll grab our 12-millimeter socket to tighten these down.Next, we can reinstall our splash guard. Thread all of our 10-millimeter bolts into our U-clips. And then we'll grab our 10-millimeter socket and tighten these all down. And then we can go on the inside of our bumper to get our two remaining bolts on each side. Now we'll reinstall our two bolts on the corners of our splash guard. Tighten those down with our 10-millimeter socket, and then we'll do the same on the other side. And now, to wrap up the install on the front, we just need to reinstall our covers. We will push all of our clips back into their holes, and then we'll do that same thing on the other side.Now, moving on to the rear, to remove our shock, we have a 14-millimeter nut at the top. We also have a piece of the stud up here that we can grab with a set of vice grips to prevent the whole stud from spinning. And then at the bottom, we have a 17-millimeter bolt with a 17-millimeter nut, so we'll take that off with a 17-millimeter socket and wrench. So, now we'll get our 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench onto our nut, and then we'll slide our vice grips onto our stud. And then we can put the vice grips against our frame here to prevent it from spinning and loosen up our nut. And then we can remove those vice grips and get our nut the rest of the way off. And then we can remove our metal plate and bushing and then work on our lower shock mount. And I'll come to our lower shock mount and get a 17-millimeter socket and wrench to remove our bolt. And if you have trouble getting this out, you can just compress the shock to remove it.And then we can use a pry bar to get it out of our lower mount. And then we can do that same thing on the other side. So next, we can remove the four nuts that are holding our axle to our leaf spring. You're gonna want to get a pole jack on each side for this to support the weight of the axle. And then we'll grab a 19-millimeter socket to loosen up these nuts. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. And now we can just pull up on our U-bolts to remove them and do the same thing on the other side. So, now with our U-bolts removed, we can start to lower down our axle evenly to install our lift blocks.So, now we've got a third pole jack right here underneath the front side of our diff housing. That way, we can adjust the angle of the axle, and then we can keep lowering it down. And then once we have enough room, we can slide our blocks into place. Now, the smaller side of the block is gonna go towards the front of the truck, so we'll get that into place, and then we can start raising our axle backup. So, now we can install our new U-bolts that were included in the kit, and then we'll slide our bottom plate onto those bolts. Next, we can install our new washers and locking nuts onto our U-bolts. Now, our new nuts are 22 millimeters, so we'll grab a 22-millimeter socket and tighten these down evenly in a cross pattern. And then we can do that same thing on the other side.So, now we're ready to install our new shock. So, to assemble this, we're gonna get a flat plate on the bottom, and then we're gonna use our bushing with the lip up top, and then the plate with the corresponding lip. And then we can slide that up through the hole and put our flat bushing and another flat plate on top. And then we'll install our nut on top of that. Next, we can get the bottom of our shock into our lower shock mount. So, we're gonna have to push up and compress the shock to slide it in, and then we'll probably have to give it a couple of taps with a rubber mallet to get it into place. And then we can slide our bolt through.So, now we need to push our shock up just a little bit. Since we don't have enough room in here to get there with a pry bar, I've got a flathead screwdriver. Now, on the other side, we need to come down a little bit. Now, since we don't have room to hammer here, I'm just gonna get a pry bar on the bolt and try to tap it in with a hammer. And now, with our bolt through, we can get our washer and our nut on the other side. And then we'll get our 17-millimeter wrench and socket to tighten down our bolt. So, now we can go back up top and grab a 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench, tighten down our nut. We can hold the body of the shock to prevent the stud from spinning. And then we can repeat that same process on the other side.So, that'll wrap up this review and install of the Rough Country 3.50-inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted N3 Struts and V2 Monotube Shocks, year 2005 and newer 6-Lug Tacoma. Thank you for watching. 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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Lift Height||3.50 Inch|
|Lift Kit Type||Suspension Lift|
|Lift Kit Max Tire Size||34 Inch|
|Lift Kit Includes Shocks||Shocks Included|
Boosts Off-Road Performance. Take your Tacoma to the next level by installing this Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted N3 Struts and V2 Monotube Shocks. The kit lifts your truck by 3.50 inches and allows larger tires with up to 34-inch diameter to be installed. Finally, it includes Lifted N3 Struts and V2 Monotube Shocks Shocks to maximize the off-roading performance of your truck.
Lifted N3 Struts and V2 Monotube Shocks. The N3 Struts increase ground clearance, are nitrogen-charged, and feature infinitely variable damping. On the other hand, the nitrogen-charged V2 Monotube Shocks feature a 46mm high-flow piston with 36kN tensile strength that’s ready for rides on rugged terrains. Expect these shocks to offer maximum on and off-road damping performance for your Tacoma.
Tubular Upper Control Arms. Tubular upper control arms optimize your truck to achieve the factory-like geometry after lifting. They improve ride height and ball-joint performance.
Fabricated Rear Blocks. This suspension lift kit includes rear lift blocks and N3 loaded spacers to lift your truck by 3.50 inches. And as a result, tires with up to 34-inch diameter can be installed for more exciting off-roading.
Installation. You can install this suspension lift kit by reusing the factory bolt locations of your Tacoma. Standard tools can be used for the installation. Minor cutting is required.
Rough Country Warranty. Rough Country grants a lifetime replacement warranty for this suspension lift kit. It also offers a 3-year manufacturer’s warranty to Adjustable Vertex Coil-Overs and V2 Monotube Shocks. Please visit the manufacturer’s website or contact customer service for more information.
Application. This Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted N3 Struts and Premium N3 Shocks fits all 2005-2023 6-Lug Tacoma models.
Rough Country 74271
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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