(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$699.95 (kit)FREE Shipping Market Price $797.99 You Save 12% ($98.04)
Open Box from $419.97
Add Local Shop Installation
Saved - View your saved items
We're sorry. We couldn't save this product at this time.
Merideth: Hey, guys. So today, we're checking out the Rough Country Full-Width Front Bumper in Satin Black, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. Now, this will be a great addition to your Jeep if you're looking to increase your off-road capabilities with a front bumper that's gonna provide the clearance, protection, and utility that you may be looking for. The bumper will also add an aggressive appearance to the front end and provide additional lighting if you're currently struggling with front-end visibility.This will feature recovery points with a 4-3/4 ton capacity, 2-inch flush-mounted cube lighting, and a 20-inch single-row light bar. This will also feature a full-width compact design to allow better approach angles overall, giving you better clearance in off-road situations.This will have a CNC machine steel plate build for optimal durability to protect the front end of the Jeep. This will also have a nice textured black powder coat finish on top, which is going to be more of a fine textured powder coat, which will prevent any rusting or corrosion on the steel underneath, but it's also gonna match with any other heavy-duty accessories and add a premium appearance to the Jeep. Now, the lighting will also be durable with an IP67 water and dustproof rating while outputting collectively 7,200 lumens. Not to mention, this will include a skid plate for the lower frame rails and the sway bar, which is going to give you additional underbody protection.This will be right in the middle when it comes to price at roughly $750. Compared to other choices, this will have a slim and sleek design while still offering a full-width build and a lot of light output out of the front end. Now, other options in the category may not offer as many lighting options as this does, or they will come with different features including a winch, a bull bar, and so on. Now, I think if you don't plan on mounting up a winch and you're okay with the recovery options that this has to offer with the addition of other features like the lights and the high clearance construction, then this is gonna be a great addition to your build.Install will be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about two hours to get this mounted up and configured properly with some basic hand tools. At this point, we can head over to the shop and check out a detailed breakdown of the install. So, that's gonna wrap it up for me, let's go ahead and jump into it.Man 1: The tools you're gonna need for this installation include, a trim removal tool, a pop clip removal tool, a ratchet, electronic or regular, an impact gun, 7, 10, 13, 14, 16, 18, and 19-millimeter sockets, a T40 Torx socket, a range of socket extensions, the Allen key set that comes included with the kit, two 10-millimeter wrenches, I would recommend one being a ratcheting wrench, two 13-millimeter wrenches, again, ratcheting wrench on one of those, 14-millimeter wrench, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, diagonal cutters, and zip ties.What's going on, everybody? Today, we have a front bumper we're gonna install on our JL. I'm gonna show you how to do it step by step. Now, we did previously get the uninstall footage, so we're gonna take you to that first, then I'll be back to show you how to install this bumper step by step. So, let's get started.Man 2: So, begin this installation, we're gonna need to remove our factory bumper. We're gonna begin with the air dam underneath. There's a series of pop clips that we'll have to use a screwdriver or a trim panel removal tool, and there's two screws that we're gonna use an 8-millimeter socket for. All right. So, we have eight of these push pins all the way across the bottom. We're gonna just take and pop the center out, and that's gonna release that clip.So, once you get the last screw out of the bottom, you're ready to pull the whole shield off. So next, we're gonna take off this metal shield using a 16-millimeter socket. We're gonna have one bolt on either side. After you get those bolts off, you can lift this up and it'll slide right off. So next, we're gonna unplug our fog light harness. It's located here on the passenger-side frame rail. We're just gonna press this tab in. And then we can disconnect our plug.So, after we have our fog light harness unplugged, you're ready to remove the four nuts on both ends of the frame rail. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter socket to do this. So, the last thing to disconnect before we pour a bumper off, there's gonna be two push pins, one on either side on the top of the frame rail. We'll need to pop those out with a screwdriver and then we can pull our bumper off. With everything disconnected, you can remove your stock bumper.Man 1: All right. We're ready to start the install and we're starting here on our workbench because there's a little bit we have to do to prep this bumper before we can put it on our Jeep. We're gonna start with these T bolts that come in the kit, and we're gonna secure them in place right here in these four locations on the back of the bumper. And we're gonna just hold them in place using these clear, little locking nuts that are gonna slide over top of 'em like this. These are also included in the kit.All right. So, the T bolts here go in from the inside of this bracket. And then the tab's also gonna be on the inside. So, just gotta take your time with these. It is a pretty tight fit. Once you get one in, go ahead and slide the plastic squares over top just to hold 'em in place. All right. We're gonna do the same exact thing on the other side of the bumper. Next, we're gonna install our 2-inch lights here. So, we have one for either side of our bumper. So, we need to source our bracket here with our light. Everything that I'm using right now comes included with the kit.So, also need two bolts for either side of our bracket, and these actually screw into the light. There's a welded nut on either side. So, we're gonna line our bracket up in between the fins here like so. And make sure you line the holes up. When you look through here, you can kind of see the holes. Then we're gonna put our bolt through and then screw it into place using the Allen key that comes included with the kit. Give that one little snug. All right. Same for the other side.All right. Just make sure that those bolts are loose enough that we can still move this back and forth so that we can adjust it once we have it mounted to our bumper. All right. Now, for mounting our lights onto our bumper, we're gonna line up the bracket here on our light with the bracket on our bumper. And we also need this hardware here, which is a 14-millimeter bolt with a locking washer and a flat washer. And we're gonna very carefully thread this through our mount on our light and put that through our bumper bracket. And then we need the 14-millimeter nut as well. And we're gonna put that on by hand for now.All right. And we're just gonna tighten it down enough so that we can maneuver this around, but also so it's gonna kind of stay in place so we can get a good visual on how it's gonna be lined up. We can also take a peek from the other side and make sure it's good. But once you have it where you want it, go ahead and tighten that down. We're gonna use 14-millimeter wrenches and I'm gonna use a ratcheting wrench on the nut here just to make it a little easier.Let's go ahead and mount our brackets onto our 20-inch light bar and we're gonna grab the brackets that look like this and they're gonna get mounted onto our light in this direction. And we're gonna use the included hardware. So, the included hardware looks like this. We got an Allen key head bolt here, so we're gonna need two of these with lock washers and flat washers on each. Once we have the brackets installed onto the light, then we're gonna install the bracket of our light to our bumper. So, we're gonna need two sets of hardware for that as well looking like this. So, we have a bolt with a lock washer and flat washer.Then once we put it through both of our brackets here, on the other side, we're gonna put another flat washer and a nut and we're gonna tighten those down using our 13-millimeter wrenches. And to tighten down this bolt, we're gonna use the Allen key that comes provided in the kit. And we're gonna leave it relatively loose just so we have the ability to adjust the bracket as needed. All right. We're gonna put the bracket on the other side as well.All right. For these bolts and nuts here, we're gonna use 13-millimeter wrench on the nut and then I'm gonna use my 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Just to make it a little easier, I'm gonna use this on the bolt side. All right. So, there is some adjustability in this bracket as well, so we're gonna leave this relatively loose as well so that when we put it on the bumper, we can then adjust it so we can make sure that this light is nice and centered. All right. Moving on to the other bracket.All right. We're back at the Jeep right here at the frame and we're gonna need to grab the brackets out of our kit. So, these come provided, these are the bumper brackets, and we're gonna install these right here on the inside of this lower piece of the frame here on both sides. So here and here. And to install these, we're gonna need two sets of hardware like this, actually four sets in total, but it's gonna be a button head bolt with a 4-millimeter Allen key head. So, might as well grab that 4-millimeter Allen key as well. Then a lock washer, two flat washers, and a nut.So, we're gonna take the nut and the second flat washer off, put this up, put that through, and then from the inside, we gotta put the flat washer and nut back on. All right. So, we're gonna line our bumper bracket up here with these two hexagon holes in our frame. And if it wasn't clear before, we're gonna take our button head bolt with a locking washer and flat washer and put this through like so. And then from the inside from underneath here, we're gonna put our other flat washer and the nut back on.All right. So, this is a really tight spot in the frame here, and there is a couple of different ways you could try to do this as far as getting the nut on the backside. I've managed to get it on from coming underneath, putting the flat washer on, and then just kind of resting the nut there against the flat washer and then turning my button head bolt. You know, it would be worth maybe trying with a magnet, or you could come through this hole if your hands are big enough and hold it there as well. But like I said, it is tricky, but if you take your time, use a little patience, you'll be able to get these on.All right. And to tighten these the rest of the way down, we're gonna use the 4-millimeter Allen key that comes with the kit and then a 13-millimeter wrench for the nut. All right. And when you have 'em tightened up, they should be in this general direction like you see here. Now, we're gonna repeat the same steps on the other side. All right. Now we're on the other side of the front driver's side of the frame and we're gonna remove this bracket while we're here. So, we're removing this bracket so that later on when we install our skid plate, it gives us enough room to mount it up to our studs that are gonna be here.And to remove this bracket, we're just going to loosen up this bolt right here using our 16-millimeter socket. So, once the bolt is loose, we can simply slide the bracket off and tighten the bolt back down. All right. And we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. All right. We're ready to start mounting up our bumper. So, those four T-bolt brackets that we installed on the bumper earlier, that's what we're gonna mount up on our frame of our Jeep. So, we're gonna need some hardware for that as well. So, we're just gonna grab a couple of bolts for each side, along with flat washers to get this started.Then once we have it started, we'll put the rest of the hardware through and tighten everything down with our 19-millimeter socket. So, it goes out without saying that this bumper is really heavy. So, it's a good idea to grab a friend to help you line everything up. All right. Now at this point, we'll get underneath here and put the rest of the hardware on, like I said, and tighten everything down with our 19-millimeter socket. So, now we're underneath our Wrangler again behind the bumper, and we're gonna put the rest of the hardware up, excluding the outer and most lower stud here. So, we're gonna leave the nut and washer off of this one on either side, but we're gonna put the rest of our hardware on the other studs and tighten everything down using our 19-millimeter socket.So, at this point, when I'm tightening down the bumper, I like to push up on it just to keep it high and tight, gives it a better look. And I just wanted to note we're leaving this open because this is where our skid plate is gonna mount on either side. All right. Now we're on the other side of the same frame, putting the hardware on these studs here. All right. Now we'll move on over to the driver's side. All right. And again, we're gonna leave this stud open until we mount our skid plate up. Then we'll put the hardware on.But for the stop one, go ahead and tighten this one down. Right. I got my light bar light up, I'm ready to tighten it down. I'm gonna go ahead and put my 13-millimeter wrench on the bottom, the box end, and I'm gonna use my ratcheting wrench on the top, makes this a little bit easier. All right. Tighten down the other side. All right. Now that all our lights are in position, we can go ahead and grab our wiring harnesses, start wiring 'em up. All right. It's time to wire up our lights, so let's grab our wiring harnesses and unravel 'em, get to the connector end so I can show you these. So, we do have two different types of connectors. These two are for the fog lights. This one is for the light bar.And the first thing we're gonna do is we're actually gonna route these ends over the frame first before I connect them. That way, when we get back over here, we can have everything above the frame to keep it nice and tidy. And also for the outermost light connector here, we're gonna put that over the frame as well, you know, for the same reasons, just to keep everything above the frame, keep it nice and clean. All right. And I'm gonna start by connecting the light bar here. There's a couple of things I wanna point out. One being, well, yeah, I guess it's just this one thing that this is keyed. So, there is a little notch in here or just a little tab in there and a notch on this end. So, line those up, push 'em together, and then you can tighten it down with the sleeve.Also, make sure your O-rings are in place as well. All right. That one's good to go. And for the fog light connectors, these are simple push-and-click connectors. So, when you push 'em together, you should get like a light audible click. That way, you know it's fully seated. All right. We're gonna do the same thing for our other fog light plug. And then we're gonna start routing these wires through the fender and up into the engine bay. All right. With all our lights connected, let's just make sure we have all the slack.And if you want at this point, you could zip-tie these together just to make it a little easier to route them up into the engine bay. Also wanna point out, obviously, we don't have a fender liner, ours is already removed. So, if you still have a fender liner, it's a good idea just to take a couple of pieces of hardware out just so you can make enough room to route your wires up through here. We're gonna go right here next to the air box. Also, before we start routing, let's go ahead and take our relays off here.Just so makes it a little easier to route everything so these don't get caught on anything. And plus they could come out and we don't wanna lose them. All right. So, just keep those safe for now and we'll reattach them after we connect to the battery. All right. At this point, we'll put the Wrangler down, show you from the top where we're gonna pull the wires the rest of the way through. So, as you can see, we're in the engine bay now, right next to the airbox in the front of it. And this is where our wires are gonna come up through. So, let's pull 'em the rest of the way through for the most part.And once I do get to the end of our harness here, I'm actually gonna take it underneath the airbox and kind of route it around this direction to come over to the battery. All right. So, this is all of my wire harnesses right here. So like I said, I'm just gonna kind of route this around, come underneath the air intake tube here. All right. From here, we'll route over towards the battery and then we'll start connecting our terminal ends. And then after that, I'll show you how to route the switches into the cabin.All right. So, as you can see, we're now behind our airbox here. And I'm gonna call out just this spot right here for zip tying. Just I found a nice spot where we can secure these wires. So along wherever you're routing your wires, because, obviously, you can route these different ways, but wherever you do find a nice spot to secure them, go ahead and grab a zip tie, tie 'em down. Just make sure you're keeping your wires out of the way of anything sharp or that can get hot or that is moving.All right. Now, let's go to the end of our harness. And this is actually not a bad spot to tuck away the extra wire as well, and we'll do that later. But for now, we're gonna go ahead and grab both of our terminal ends and connect those right here to the battery. So first, we're gonna take the positives, take both positive leads, and go ahead and you can use any one of these terminals here, our nice spots. I'm gonna use this one. This is a 10-millimeter socket to get this nut off. And then same thing over here, we're gonna connect both our negative leads to this spot right here, which is also a 10-mill.So, we're gonna do positive first because if there is any arcing, you're gonna get less arc once you complete the circuit on the negative side as opposed to connecting the negative side first. And then when you connect the positive side, you'll get a bigger arc and that could cause some damage to your fuses here. So, just a heads up. Looks like we're gonna have to come around this way. Yeah, this is the way it's gonna reach the best. So, let's go ahead and put our cover back on our positive terminals here. Kind of bring wires around the backside or actually the right side of the battery here. We're gonna take this nut off and connect our negatives.All right. Make sure these are tightened back down properly. Check this one again. All right. Now, at this point, this would be a good time for you to go ahead and find a place to mount your fuses. Could zip time right here, which is probably what I'm gonna do. This is pretty good location right on your negative leads here. And then also let's reconnect our relays and find a good spot to mount those. Now, generally, if I'm working on one of my cars, I like to mount like my relays here on a plastic box with some self-tapping screws. We're not gonna be drilling into anything, but I'll find a nice place to zip tie these down, and then we'll move on to routing our switches into our cabin.All right. At this point, let's go ahead and grab our switches, reconnect them to the ends here, and start routing this around the backside of our engine bay. All right. Once we reach this part of the engine bay right here, this Jeep has a pretty nice feature here where we can route into our cabin. So, you'll notice that this piece of foam trim here has a spot where our wires can go through. And then what we're gonna do is take off this panel here using our T40 socket to get these four screws out. We can remove this panel and then there's another piece of foam trim behind there that we're gonna run the wires through, and then that'll lead right into our cabin.One thing to note about these bolts is that the top ones are longer, so just be aware of that. With those four bolts out, we can slide this panel out of the way. Then we're gonna have to open up the door and grab our trim removal tool. So, you can kind of see this piece of trim right here is a rubber piece that has two push clips in it. We're gonna remove those push clips to just get this out of the way. And then we don't have to take it all the way out, we just kind of have to move it, adjust it so that we can slide our wires through behind it, and then we'll be into the cabin.All right. If we open our door all the way up, now we can gain access to this trim panel right here. Like I said, these are the two push clips that we're gonna remove using our pop clip removal tool. All right. Now we just have to pull this out of the way. Again, we're not removing it completely, no need to. You'll notice that this is a rubber piece of trim and there's actually foam up in here, so it actually protects our wires, keeps 'em safe while we're running 'em through into our cabin. All right. Once these wires are through, we can go ahead and push this back into place, and put our push clips back in.And while we're here, we might as well go ahead and put our trim panel back on as well. So, when you get these bolts all the way down, just give them a gentle snug. No need to over-tighten these. This is a plastic trim piece. All right. We're inside the cabin now. Right above the light switch here is a good spot to mount these switches. So, all you have to do is flip 'em over once you have 'em in position. So, I just wanna keep them angled so, you know, keep it relatively aesthetically pleasing.But once you have them in position, go ahead and flip 'em over, take off the protective backing of our double-sided adhesive here, and stick them into place. All right. Once you have 'em where they're gonna stay, go ahead and just press down on the top of them and just hold 'em there for about 15 seconds or so, and make sure the adhesive sticks nicely.Last couple of steps here, we're gonna start with our skid plate. Then finally, we're gonna do our D-rings, but starting with our skid plate, we got these two holes here on the tabs in our skid plate. And these are gonna line up and go over the studs that we left open earlier. And then we're gonna put this hardware back on, tighten it down with our 19-millimeter socket. After that, we're gonna put on these by...it's gonna line up with these brackets here, and we'll put the hardware through, put it on by hand. Finally, tighten that down as well.All right. Before we hit this with our gun, just take a look at your bottom hole in your skid plate. Make sure that hole lines up with the bracket at the bottom. Once you've confirmed that, go ahead and tighten this the rest of the way down with your 19-millimeter socket. All right. Now, we're installing the lower bolts on our skid plate here. So, we have 13-millimeter bolt with a locking washer and a flat washer on bottom.We'll put this through and then we'll put another washer on top and put a nylon locking nut on top. Tighten it down with our 13-millimeter socket and 13-millimeter wrench. So, you may have to just push up a bit just to get enough threads through the bracket so that you can get the nut on. All right. And we'll do the same exact thing for the other side. All right. Lastly, we'll put on our D-rings to finish this job up.That's gonna wrap up this review and install of the Rough Country Full-Width Front Bumper in Satin Black for your 18 and newer Wrangler JL. Thank you for watching. And for all things Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Subscribe to our YouTube Channel
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Bumper Type||Full Width|
|Bumper Winch Mount||No Winch Mount|
|Bumper Fog Light Fitment||Aftermarket|
Bolder All-Terrain Confidence. Tailored for your rugged Wrangler, this Rough Country Full-Width Front Bumper in a Satin Black finish is an aggressive upgrade serving as an excellent front armor. It features a bold, full-width bumper with a skid plate, integrated D-rings, and powerful off-road lights. Furthermore, this bumper is engineered to enable your Jeep to climb large obstacles or crawl over huge rocks with ease and confidence. It is also well-designed to provide your JL with an overall protective, dynamic functionality for a bolder off-roading lifestyle.
Auxiliary Off-Road Lighting Included. This Full-Width Front Bumper kit includes a 20-inch, single-row LED light bar and a pair of 2-inch, flush-mount LED cube lights. These light assemblies feature waterproof housing and a longer lifespan. The light bar produces 7,200 lumens and 90 watts of forward-facing illumination.
Long-Term Durability. Built to handle the rough off-road lifestyle of your Jeep, this Full-Width Front Bumper exhibits exceptional strength and high structural rigidity. The bumper assembly is made of heavy-duty, CNC-machined steel plating. It is also covered in a protective, satin black powder-coated finish for long-lasting durability and enhanced off-road style.
Bolt-On Installation. With all the necessary hardware included, this Full-Width Front Bumper directly bolts to your vehicle’s body frame without any drilling. The straightforward installation completes with basic hand tools and requires light to moderate mechanical skills.
Warranties Included. As Rough Country upholds its commitment to quality materials and superior craftsmanship, it offers a lifetime warranty on the bumper and a 3-year warranty on the LED lights. These warranties cover factory defects in materials and workmanship only and come with exclusions. Please check the terms and conditions for complete details.
Application. This Rough Country Full-Width Front Bumper in Satin Black is specifically engineered to be used on all 2018 to 2023 Jeep Wrangler JL models.
Rough Country 10635
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions