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Rock-Slide Engineering 2nd Gen Step Sliders (18-22 Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door)

Item J132553-JL
ExtremeTerrain no longer carries the Rock-Slide Engineering 2nd Gen Step Sliders (18-22 Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door). Please check out Jeep JL Running Boards & Side Steps for Wrangler (2018-2022) for an updated selection.
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    Video Review & Installation

    Hey, guys, so today I'm here with the Rock-Slide Engineering Gen II Step Sliders, fitting all 2018 and newer 4-Door JL Wranglers. So, if you're not a fan of the factory sidestep or you don't have a sidestep at all, and you're looking for something that's gonna provide you a lot of protection and convenience, filling up that wheel, the wheel space, this option by Rock-Slide Engineering is gonna be a really good one to take a look at.So this is gonna be perfect for somebody who's looking for some heavy-duty protection to their very vulnerable rocker area. So, this is gonna be very durable made of a CNC cut 11 gauge steel, making sure that this is able to tackle any trail and slide off any obstacle.Now, what I really like about the design is the fact that it fits high and tight to your rocker area. So this is not gonna snag you up on any of those obstacles, and it's also gonna provide some underbody protection, as well as come out a little bit farther on the side to protect your body from any side dings or even any door dings in the parking lot.Now, not only is it just going to provide that protection, but as soon as you want to get into your Wrangler and have that convenience, all you have to do is open up the door and the step will come right down. Now, this is going to give you an instant accessibility to the inside of your cab area, making it very easy to get in and out of your Jeep as well as your passengers. And it's also gonna help you out with any roof access if you do have a roof rack or if you're just taking off your freedom panels.Now, this is gonna have a long step, which is going to provide some good coverage for the front and the rear door, and you're even getting a non-slip pad, which is gonna provide you some extra traction on those wetter days.Now, when you close up your door, this is gonna tuck right back up into the rock slider itself, making sure that this is going to stay out of the way, especially for those obstacles on the trail, and it's gonna make sure that this thing is looking very sleek and compact. And that's one thing that I really do like about this.So, this is obviously gonna be a little bit more expensive considering that this is a powered step at roughly $1,800, but I personally think for what's included in the package and how inclusive this is that that's a pretty good price point as far as a powered step is concerned.So there are not many options when it comes to powered steps for JL, but if we look at pricing for the predecessor, the JK, $1,800 is a very average price point. So, if you are looking for a lot of convenience, if you're looking for something that's not only gonna give you that convenience but also a lot of heavy-duty protection and be a very inclusive kit, there's actually no splicing or extra wiring that you have to do. And I personally think that this is gonna be right up your alley and be a very good option to take a look at.So this is actually gonna be a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Like I said, the installation, as well as the wiring, is pretty straightforward. I would, however, recommend to have a friend on hand to help you get these mounted up, but speaking of that install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I use for my install were an impact wrench, pneumatic and electric, a large flat-head screwdriver, a trim removal tool, a panel removal tool or a pry tool, the provided ratchet in the JL toolkit, a quarter-inch drive ratchet, 13-millimeter and 11-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a pair of side cutters or snips, 18-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 10-millimeter, and 8-millimeter deep socket and the provided T40 Torx bit in the JL toolkit.So our first step for this install is to remove the two bolts on the front of our pinch weld so they don't interfere with our step slider. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket and my impact wrench to remove them.So our next step after those two bolts are removed is to loosen up the three-body bolts, so we can loosely install our brackets. Now, they are going to be different for the front, the middle, and the rear.The taller one is gonna be for the front, the longer one is going to be for the rear, and the shorter one is gonna be for the middle. So, we can take an 18-millimeter socket and the impact wrench and loosen all three of them up. So with an 18-millimeter socket, we can start up at the front.Now, we don't need to fully remove them. We just wanna loosen them up, so we can wedge our bracket in between. So we can take our provided bracket. You may need to install the first one or the front one at a 45-degree angle, and this is gonna go in between the bolt head and the washer. So once that's in place, we can move to the middle and then to the rear. Right. So once that's in place, we can move to the rear.So what we can do now is install our bumper guard. This is gonna protect the side of our body from the rock slider make sure there's no damage to our body. This is going to have a 3M tape on the back. We're gonna make sure that this is lined up with the body line on the back with the notch facing down. I peel back some of the backings here. We're gonna line this up, place this on, and then we can start to peel our back end.So what we can do now is mount up our rock slider. There are studs on the rock slider. So we're going to line them up with the pinch weld, and it will hang in place. Now, we wanna keep in mind that these brackets are gonna go on top of our rock slider, so we can bolt them through the rock slider into the bracket. So, I would recommend to grab the help of a friend because these are pretty heavy.So what we can do now is attach our rock slider to our pinch weld. You can see that it's hanging here on the pinch weld. We just need to secure it down. So we're gonna grab our washer. This is gonna be the silver hardware in the kit. So it is gonna be a tight-fit. Then we can secure the other one. So the one in the front is gonna be a little bit smaller. So, use the smaller stainless hardware for that front stud.So we're gonna leave everything loose right now, and then we'll tighten everything down at the end once we have everything attached. So, now we can move on to our rear bracket.There's gonna be four mounting locations, and we're gonna use our copper hardware to secure that down. So now we can take our hardware for the body bolts and thread them into each of their mounting locations. We're gonna have four on each of the body bolts. So once all six of those bolts and nuts are threaded on, we can do the same thing for the front and the middle brackets and studs.So what we can do next is tighten everything down. I'm gonna start with the studs up at the front using a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench to tighten down the larger stud and then 11-millimeter ratcheting wrench to tighten down the smaller stud. Now, on the front in the rear, your frontmost and your rear-most stud are going to be the smaller ones that'll take the 11-millimeter.So what we can do next is tighten up our four bolts that are holding onto our body brackets. I'm gonna be using a 13-millimeter deep socket to tighten those up. So we're gonna save this body bolt for last, so we can move on to our middle and our rear bracket and do the same thing with the studs and the body mounting bracket.So our middle two studs are both gonna be 13-millimeters, so I'm gonna use a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench on both. So, again, we'll be using a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench and an 11-millimeter ratcheting wrench to tighten down the back two studs.Now we can tighten up our body bolts. So now with our 18-millimeter socket, we can tighten up our body bolts. So, after we've tightened up everything on this side, we can go and do the same thing on the other side, and then we can wire everything up.So what we can do now after we have both rock sliders installed is wire them up. Now, this is going to be pretty easy. We don't have to slice into any existing wiring harnesses. We do have one big wiring harness that's going to control everything.So we have the control box in the back. That is going to sit underneath our back passenger seat. We have some actuators as well as some magnets to make sure that the rock slider is gonna come down when any of the doors are open.And then we also have our power wires that are gonna go in our engine bay. So, there are some longer wires upfront that we'll handle on the driver's side. We'll wrap them up to our engine bay, and then all of that over there is gonna sit on the passenger side.Now, the other thing about this is that this also will be able to mount up accessory lights by Rock-Slide Engineering. We do not have those. However, I did label those out, so I will show you guys when we do actually mounted up. Those are also gonna be plug-and-play as well.So what we can do next is start removing some of our trim pieces, so we can access underneath our carpet, so we can route our wires. So what we can do first is pull this trim panel off. This is the panel where we access our door and our door's wiring harness.So in order to access our kicker panel right here, I do want to kind of open up the door, so we can have some better access. So, we're just going to unhook this from our hook here, and then we can take a T40 Torx. I am using the Torx bit that's included in the JL toolkit. And then we can just remove this bolt here. This is gonna give us some more room to work with.So once that's removed, we can just pull up on this wiring harness. Make sure that that clip is pulled up. Disconnect that to get our door out of the way. Just be careful of your mirror. So what we're gonna do now is remove this wiring harness for our door from our panel here, and that's going to make sure that we can unhook this all because this whole kicker panel is connected around our hook here. So then I'm gonna take a 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna remove this nut that's holding part of our kicker panel on. Keep this. And then we'll be able to pry this off.Now, this is only held in by a couple of fasteners. So once that is unclipped, we can move this out of the way. So, now that that's removed, you can tell this is where some of our wiring harnesses already are. And we're gonna run our main power wires up through our firewall underneath our trim panel to make sure it's really clean. And then we can move this forward.So, again, with my pry tool...I just wanna make sure that this is going over our carpet, not pushing it back. This is kind of all gonna be the same piece. So we don't need to completely remove this one. We just wanna move this forward. We do have to access underneath our carpet over here to make sure that we are running our line through. So now we can repeat that process on the other side.So underneath the carpet on all four corners, you're gonna have a grommet here. This is gonna look like it's welded basically into our body. It's not. This is a gasket material that we can remove. So, I'm just gonna take a flathead screwdriver, kind of break that seal, and you just pry up on it, and it should pop out. Right.So once that's popped out, this is where we can route our wires through. And we can repeat this process on all four corners. So after we have all of our trim panels and our grommets pulled, what we can do is actually start to install our wiring harness.Now, the 18 pin connector and the shorter side of our wiring harness is gonna stay on our passenger side, and then what we can do for now is actually route our driver's side wiring harness underneath our carpet onto the driver's side. And then we can kind of tuck everything up and pass everything through when we're over on the driver side, but we're gonna start on the passenger side.So I'm just gonna pull this up and start to pass this under, and then we can go on the other side and kind of pull it through. We should be able to pull it through as a unit and then come back to the passenger side.So I started by passing our longest wire which is our LED switch wire through, and then we can kind of pull everything else through. So I did label everything. This is gonna be our battery and power wire. If we keep pulling through, we should be able to grab our other switch wires for actuator and your step.So, we will come back to this, but on here, we have a couple of things. We have our driver's side actuator. We'll have our driver's side rear and then we will also have our driver's side LED lights. We're not gonna be using this. So we're gonna tuck this into our carpet, but then we should also have our driver's side front actuator.So we're gonna leave everything over here and then start by working on the passenger side. So we're gonna have four connectors. We're gonna have two connectors that are gonna be for our door sensors. One is gonna go to the front and then one is gonna go to the rear. We're gonna have a connector for our LED lights.Now, you can add this at a later date. We are not going to be using this, so we're gonna tuck this underneath our carpet. And then we have our actuator that we're gonna put through our floor, and this is going to plug into our rock sliders.So, we're gonna start with our actuator and go underneath our carpet through this grommet. Right. So once that's through, we can tuck that down. Make sure our wires are untangled. We're gonna send this all the way through.Then what we can do is take passenger rear and run this up the side. Then we can tuck that carpet back into place. Keep that right there for now. We can take our LED wire. Curl this up and place this underneath. Tuck it under here. Then we can move this, which is our passenger front, up through here. And we'll be able to hook this up on this side.So what we can do now is place our sensor underneath our striker here. You're gonna get some 3M tape. [inaudible 00:19:48] put that on the back. Peel the backing off. [inaudible 00:19:56] underneath, so we can plug this into our passenger rear and tuck this in our carpet.So now we can start to tuck everything back into place and reattach our trim. So, really all we just have to do is apply pressure, again, making sure that really everything is lined up. So what we can do is plug in our actuating wire to our rock slider. And this is the one that we passed through the body of our Jeep. You should hear a little snap.And then you wanna make sure that we tuck this away securely. So I would recommend to zip tie it. I'm actually gonna push some of that excess up through underneath our carpet. And that should make sure that it's secure. I would recommend to maybe zip tie it here just for some extra security, but then we can repeat that process on the other side.So what we can do now is add our magnet. This is gonna have a little bit of backing, and it's gonna have some 3M on the other side. This is gonna make sure that when we close our door, open our door that our step goes down or it goes back up. So you wanna make sure that it's gonna be even with the sensor, and then stick that on, and make sure that that lines up.So what we can do is take the wiring harness, it's gonna be connected to our battery, and route them through our firewall, so we can connect them to our main power harness. And then what we can do is connect the wire to our battery when we're all finished. We just wanna make sure that this is gonna reach over there and connect. Then we can tuck everything up and connect it to our battery.So, there is gonna be a pass-through on the driver's side or the left side of your brake master cylinder here. You may have to use a flathead screwdriver to remove the cover, but if you don't have a cover there, you can take this harness, and we can pass this through.I find it a little bit easier to do this before we mount this up to our battery just because we have all this slack here, and then we can pull it tight. So, this should drop right next to our brake pedal, or if you have a manual transmission, it should drop it right next to your clutch pedal. Then we can go back inside our cab area and connect those.So, this is the wire that's gonna come through our firewall. We're gonna plug this into our main harness here, red into red, black into black. And then this is going to be a switch wire for our lights. Now, we are not using lights. So we're gonna curl this up and tuck this underneath our carpet.What we can do now is pull this back from the firewall and put on our trim piece. So, I'm just gonna move that out of the way. What we can do is kind of tuck this underneath our seat here because we won't really need to access this. But if we do need to, all we have to do is pull off this kicker panel and then pull that out, so we can run this along underneath our carpet. Right.So once that's under the carpet, we can go back to the engine bay and pull this through, so we don't have this slack here. And then we can reinstall our kicker panel. Making sure that everything's out of the way, we can hook this on. We will need to make sure that this is going around that bolt here, so you kind of might have to finesse it a little bit where you should be able to get it back in place.So we can tighten that back up with that 10-millimeter socket. Pop this clip back into place. Then we can reinstall our door and then move back to install our control unit. So right now I'm trying to make sure that the magnet is aligned. However, once we have everything plugged in, if the step is not coming out when you have the door open, you may need to realign them back in.So what we can do next is attach our control box. This is gonna have an 18-pin connector, and this is our main control wiring harness. So, we're gonna plug this in. Like I told you, guys, this is the back passenger seat. So plug that in until it clicks.You can do a couple of things with this. You can zip tie this up to the bottom of your seat. You can tuck it underneath your carpet and just let it hang out there. That's what I'm gonna do just because I don't want to interfere with how this is bent down once we recline our seats if we have to. So, I'm just gonna tuck this underneath our carpet, very easy to do that.So what we can do is just tuck this underneath the seat. Now, if you want to zip tie it, you can zip tie it up here. I just wanna make sure that we have all the free movement that we need when we put down our seat. So, it may be a little bit of a bulge in the carpet. However, you're really not gonna be able to see this at all.So, for the switch wire, what we're gonna do is just tuck this up on this side as well. We wanna make sure that this reaches back behind our OBD2 because we're gonna attach a bracket here. But for right now, we're just gonna tuck this up, and we can reinstall our kicker panel. Now, making sure that this is in place, make sure that those wires out, and then we can give this all the pressure. Pop this back in. Give it a little pressure back. Reinstall this 10-millimeter bolt and tighten it down with that 10-millimeter socket.Plug the door harness back in, flip back into body, and then we will be able to mount up our bracket. So what I'm actually gonna do is remove this bolt. I just kind of loosen this up, and then I'm going to take our ground wire and attach it behind there. We don't need to remove it all the way. We just need a good ground.So then what we can do is wrap these through the bracket. You can go behind our OBD2, so they're tucked up. You can grab our switch, making sure that the red wire is on the copper and that blue is on the silver. We can mount this up into place. Right. So after that's installed, what we can do is reinstall our door and then head to the engine bay.So what we can do next is take our leads. Now, I did remove the fuse just to protect the fuse. We don't want to blow it right away. So, what we're gonna do is just push a power wire cover back. We're gonna attach our negative and our positive wires to our battery's accessory terminals.So we're gonna attach our power first. I'm using a 10-millimeter socket and a quarter-inch drive ratchet. Then we can attach our negative terminal, same 10-millimeter socket. We can pull our cover backup. Then what we can do is we're gonna wrap this wire on the side, making sure that nothing is touching anything hot. Then we can reinstall our fuse.So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at

    Product Information

    Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


    • Make Jeep Entry Easier
    • Hold Up to 650 Pounds
    • Shield Jeep Sides from Damage
    • Heavy-Duty, 11-Guage, Laser-Cut Steel Construction
    • Textured Black Powder-Coat Finish
    • Easy to Install
    • Driver and Passenger Side Included
    • Lifetime Structural and 12-Month Finish/Electrical Warranties
    • Fit All 2018-2022 Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door Models


    Make Jeep Entry Easier. With the Rock-Slide Engineering Gen II Step Sliders, you will enjoy how much more convenient it is to enter your Jeep Wrangler JL. Installed on your vehicle’s lower sides, this product consists of steps that automatically deploy from the accompanying sliders and drop down 12 inches when you open the door. In addition, each step provides sturdiness by accommodating up to 650 pounds.

    Shield Jeep from Damage. You don’t have to worry about rocks, debris, and other unfavorable elements on the trail damaging the sides of your Jeep. These Step Sliders provide a barrier to prevent that from happening.

    Durable and Corrosion-Resistant. Each Step Slider is made from 11-gauge laser-cut steel, with the internal components using stainless steel and aluminum, then finished with a black textured powder-coating with a crystal adhered base layer to the metal. Ultimately, this product will not break, bend, fade, or rust.

    Easy to Install. Everything necessary for a complete install is included with these Rock-Slide Step Sliders. Since these steps bolt onto the Jeep Wrangler JL’s factory mounting locations, you will not need to make any modifications. Expect to complete installation within an hour.

    Lifetime Structural and 12-Month Finish/Electrical Warranties. Rock-Slide Engineering warrants that the structural and mechanical components of these Step Sliders will be free of defects in material and workmanship for their lifetime; and that the finish and electrical components will be free of defects in material and workmanship for a period of 12 months from the original date of purchase. Some exclusions may apply; please see manufacturer's warranty for details.

    Application. The Rock-Slide Engineering Gen II Step Sliders are designed to fit all 2018-2022 Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door models.

    CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

    Installation & What's in the Box

    Installation Info

    What's in the Box

    • (1) Drive Side Step Slider
    • (1) Passenger Side Step Slider
    • (1) Bump Stop Plate with VHB Backing
    • (1) 2-Piece Wiring Harness
    • (12) Double-Sided Adhesive Squares
    • (4) Door Sensors
    • (4) Magnets
    • (4) Alcohol Wipes
    • (1) Rocker Cutoff Switch
    • (1) Circuit Board
    • (8) 0.3125-Inch 18 Nylock Nuts
    • (8) 0.3125-Inch Stainless-Steel Washers
    • (4) 0.25-Inch 20 Nylock Nuts
    • (4) 0.25-Inch 20 Stainless Steel Washers
    • (24) 0.3125-Inch 18 x 1-Inch Grade 8 Hex Head Bolts
    • (24) 0.3125-Inch SAE Yellow Zinc Washers
    • (2) Front Brackets
    • (2) Middle Brackets
    • (2) Rear Brackets

    Customer Reviews (32)

      Questions & Answers

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