(approx) 6 Hours
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Merideth: If you're in search of a lift that will fit that larger set of wheels and tires or gain you some extra ground clearance for the trail, this officially licensed Jeep 2.5-inch Suspension Lift Kit with Reservoir Shocks will be a great option to consider for your 2007 to 2018 JK Wrangler. Now, this will be good for the JK owner who wants a mild, yet high-performance lift kit to fit up to a 35-inch tire to make the Jeep more capable when you're taking it off-road or if you just straight up want a more aggressive aesthetic to your rig.Now, this kit will come with quality officially licensed Jeep components and will include everything that you need as well as more to get that height for the JK owner looking for a fully inclusive lift kit. Now, as I mentioned, this will be a full kit which will feature springs, shocks, sway bar end links, and all of the hardware, brackets, and spacers that you need in order to get that 2.5 inches of lift while maintaining good ride quality.Now, the combination of these springs and the shocks alone will be fine-tuned and the addition of the reservoir will up the game when it comes to reliability and responsiveness on as well as off-road. Not only will this offer the performance that you may be looking for, but this is going to eliminate the rake and create more of a defined stance for your rig, really elevating that aesthetic. Getting into the construction, starting off with the springs, these will be high-tensile linear springs offering reliability and good responsiveness to on and off-road driving.Now, the shocks included will consist of a gas-pressurized reservoir design providing extended valving to keep them cooler and operating more efficiently compared to the stock one that can end up fading over time. Usually, it gets squishy and you can feel that in your drive. These will also have a hard chrome OE-style piston rod for great strength and a steel as well as aluminum housing or body coated in a durable black powder coat finish. And this reservoir on the outside is going to have an anodized finish that's going to resist any rusting or corrosion on both of those metals.Sway bar end links will be made of a durable steel material as well with a nice silver powder coat on top. Those are also going to have high-density polyurethane bushings that will outshine the factory ones when it comes to the lifespan. And you can also find a track bar relocation bracket in the kit that's going to pull the axle-back center that's made of heavy-duty steel material with a nice black powder coat finish on that as well. And you're also going to get bump stop extensions in the kit. And the front bump stop extensions are going to be made of an aluminum material with a nice black powder coat again. And the rear bump stop extensions will be made of a dense plastic material, so you don't have to worry about any rusting when it comes to those.Not to mention, this kit is going to come with absolutely everything that you need as far as the hardware is concerned when it comes to getting this installed on your Jeep. Now, this kit will come in at about $1,600, which, in my opinion, is a good price for what you're getting. Now, comparing this to other choices available on the site, this kit will come with every component that you need to lift your Jeep and accommodate for that added height with high-performance components that you don't see in every kit, unlike some other spacer or bare-bones choices.Now, this will also be officially licensed, so you can ensure that this is backed in quality by Jeep for some additional peace of mind that you're getting a solid kit. Now, install will be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. As you can probably assume, you will have to disassemble your entire suspension in order to get this on. So it's going to take you about six hours to get the job done with the right tools and the right setup. At this point, we can head over to the shop and check out a detailed breakdown of the install process step-by-step. So that's going to wrap it up for me. Let's go ahead and get into it.Man: Tools you will need for this install include an air and electric impact, assortment of ratchets, 10-millimeter, 11-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 19-millimeter, 21-millimeter sockets, various extensions, clip removal tool, 11-millimeter, 14-millimeter, 16-millimeter, 17-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 19-millimeter, 21-millimeter, and 22-millimeter wrenches, pry bar, penetrating lubricant, and a handheld spring compressor, as well as tools not shown here, which are a jack and jack stands.What's up, guys? Today we're going to be installing a lift kit on our Wrangler. But before we get started with the rear, we're going to send you to watch a short video on how to uninstall your factory suspension, and then we'll get started with our lift kit install. So now we can get started in the rear.Merideth: Now, our first step is going to be to take off our bottom shock bolts. Now we're going to use an 18-millimeter socket and wrench to disconnect this bottom shock bolt. I also have the axle supported just like in the front, but we can go ahead and take that out. And this is going to give us access to that lower sway bar bolt. You might need a small pry bar just to get it out of the mount here. Now we can take out the bottom sway bar bolt using an 18-millimeter socket and wrench.Next, we can take out the bolt on our brake line bracket up on the frame here. I'm going to use the same 10-millimeter socket that we used up front. And again, this is just going to make sure that our brake line is not damaged while we're lowering our axle. Then we can just repeat that on the other side. Next, we can disconnect our rear track bar using a 21-millimeter socket. So once the track bar is disconnected, we can start to lower down our axle.So real quick, I'm just going to disconnect this breather hose. You just have to pull back on it. It's just going to be a barbed pin there. And then what we can do now is just lower down our axle. Once the axle is low enough, we can just pop out our spring and the isolator is going to come out with it.Man: All righty, guys, welcome back. Now that we've shown you how to remove your factory suspension, we're ready to go ahead and start with our lift install. And our first step is going to be to install our new bump stops onto our axle. And we're going to use our supplied two 5/16 bolts, 2 flat washers, and lock nuts on each bump stop.So we'll go ahead and get those loosely in place and then we'll tighten them down. One thing to note is the orientation. Your outer triangle here will face the rear of the vehicle. So we'll go ahead and install those. So we'll go ahead and get our rear bolt in place first. And then go ahead and locate that into our hole. And grab our washer and our nut. You may have to lift up on it to get it in place. It's kind of tricky. Get it to start threading on. And then we'll go ahead and get our front bolt in place. And we'll go ahead and set our front bolt in. Get our washer and our nut ready. Again, you might have to lift up on it to get it in place. Okay. Once we have those threaded in, we can go ahead and get ready to tighten those down.So for our front bolt, we can get to it using our 13-millimeter socket and our ratchet. Go ahead and slide that in place. And for our rear, we'll have to use two 13-millimeter wrenches to go ahead and tighten that down. You want to get it as tight as you can by hand first. Then go ahead and finish it off with your wrench. So now we're ready to go ahead and install our new springs. And we're going to reuse the top cap here off of our factory spring. And you can see the indent of where your factory spring was. And you want to line that up with your new spring. And we may need to lower our rear down even more to go ahead and get our new spring in. You may even find your breathing tube for your axle is getting a little stretched.So you can go ahead and just pop that off. And you can extend that if you feel more comfortable with an add-on adapter. Go ahead and lower this down, keeping an eye on our lines and everything else to make sure nothing is getting stretched. Go ahead and give it a check. And you want to make sure the bottom of your spring lines up in the correct orientation as well. And then we'll go ahead and raise our differential back up. So once you get your bump stop and your spring loosely in place on this side, you can go ahead and repeat this process on the other side.Next, we can go ahead and install our new sway bar end links. So to do that, we're going to mount these on the outside here. Use our provided 19-millimeter nut to mount our top joint to our sway bar. We'll get that hand-tight. And then we can go ahead and reuse the factory hardware to mount our bottom of our sway bar end link to our axle. You may have to bring it down here. And you want to make sure your grease fitting for your serviceability is facing out towards your caliper so you do have access to that while you're on the road.Next, we can go ahead and use our 19-millimeter socket and extension on our impact to go ahead and tighten down our top bolt. And then we can go ahead and use an 18-millimeter socket and extension on our impact and an 18-millimeter wrench to tighten down our bottom bolt. And once you've got that done on this side, you can go ahead and repeat this process on your other side.Next, we can go ahead and mount our top mounting bolt for our shock using our supplied bolt, two washers, and a lock nut. And go ahead and slide that into place and get our nut and washer on. And then we can go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. So next, we're ready to go ahead and install our track bar drop bracket. And in order to do that, we're going to need to release our lower control arm here.So we're going to use our 21-millimeter socket on our impact and a 21-millimeter wrench to remove the bolt. And we'll go ahead and pry that out of the way. And we'll go ahead and remove our bolt. And our control arm just swings out of the way. Now we can go ahead and get our drop bracket into place and slide that on. It may be a little tight because you have your bumps up in the way. If you feel the need to, you can go ahead and pull that back off. But it will work while it's still on there. Just take some finagling.And once you've got that lined up, we'll go ahead and install our supplied bolt, flat washer, and flange nut. And there are two bolt holes. We'll go ahead and install our first one here. We can get our second one in place. Then we'll go ahead and install our flange nuts on the backside. And we're going to leave those loose for now so we can mount the rest of our hardware here. So now for our original mounting point, we're going to use our supplied bolt, two flat washers, and a lock nut along with a sleeve that goes in the middle here. So we'll get this lined up.So once you've got your bolt lined up, we can go ahead and insert our sleeve here. And this may be a little bit of a tight fit. Go ahead and slide it over. So now that you've gotten your bolt through, it is a bit of a struggle. But once you finagle it in there, it will go. We can go ahead and install our washer and our lock nut on the backside. We'll go ahead and slide our washer on. Get our lock nut in there. Now, this is kind of a blind spot, but it goes directly behind this tab here on the axle of your original track bar mounting location. Now we can go ahead and tighten this down using our 21-millimeter socket on our impact and a 22-millimeter wrench for your nut on the backside. Once you have that done, we can go ahead and tighten down our other two supporting bolts.Now we can go ahead and tighten down our two supporting bolts. And we'll use our 14-millimeter wrench for the front and our 14-millimeter socket and extension on our impact for our nuts. You may have to swap out for this top one because of your axle housing. So we'll go ahead and swap that. We can go ahead and install our track bar onto our drop bracket using our supplied bolt, two flat washers, and a lock nut. So we'll go ahead and swing this up into place, go ahead and line that up. Now, you may need to pry it up a little bit to get the bolt to go all the way through.Once you've got your bolt all the way through, we can go ahead and install our washer and our lock nut on the backside. You may need to rotate your spring a little bit to get it out of the way. And we're going to snug this down for now, but we will end up torquing all these bolts when we're under load once we drop it back down to the ground. We can go ahead and snug this down using our 21-millimeter socket on our impact, 22-millimeter wrench. And again, just snug for now, we'll torque those later. We can go ahead and reinstall our lower control arm. Slide that back into place. Go ahead and reinstall your factory hardware.Now we can tighten that back down using our 21-millimeter wrench and our 21-millimeter socket on our impact. Now we can go ahead and install our brake line drop bracket, reusing our factory hardware for the original mounting point. Then we're going to add a nut and bolt in for our new mounting point for our line. We'll go ahead and thread that in. Then we can go ahead and tighten that down using our 10-millimeter socket on our ratchet.Next, we'll use our supplied bolt and washer on the front side here. Go ahead and install that. Then we will use a flat washer and a lock nut for the backside. We can tighten these down using our 11-millimeter socket on our ratchet and our 11-millimeter wrench on the backside. And once you've got that done over here, you can go ahead and repeat the process on the other side.So before we move on to installing our new front suspension, we're going to send you to watch a short video on how to uninstall your factory system, and we'll see you when you get back.Merideth: So the first couple of steps of this install include getting the Jeep up in the air, whether you're on a jack and jack stands, or if you are on a lift like I am with a couple of pole jacks. You want to make sure that you're supporting the axle because we will have to lower it down. You also want to make sure that the front wheels and tires are off. And if you are on a jack and jack stands, I would recommend chalking at the rear wheels. Our first step is going to be to take off our sway bar end links or at least to just disconnect them from the axle.So we can take off the bottom bolt for our sway bar end link. We don't necessarily have to take off the top considering that we just need to disconnect this from the axle so we can lower it down. So I'm going to take an 18-millimeter swivel socket on the passenger side and then I'm going to take an 18-millimeter wrench and we can take that off. Then we can do the same thing on the other side. Next, we can disconnect our front track bar using a 21-millimeter socket. It's going to be a flag down on the back. That is going to shift the axle a little bit, but it's going to allow us to drop our axle.Next, we can remove our lower shock bolt using an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. Now, in order to get this out, you may have to adjust the height of the axle in order to loosen that bolt up. The other thing that we want to make sure to do while we're over on this side is disconnect our brake line bracket. We have one up at the top on the frame and one down on the spring perch. I'm going to use a 10-millimeter socket for both of those, but I'm also going to use my impact wrench for this top one. I'm going to make sure to save these.So what we can do at this point is kind of just wiggle our shock out at the bottom there and then just pull out our brake line bracket. This is just going to give it enough slack so when we drop our axle we're not damaging this brake line because we definitely don't want to do that. If this does get damaged in the process, you will need to replace them.So once we are finished with the brake line and the shock over on this side, we can do the same thing on the other side and then we can start lowering our axle. At this point, what we can do is start lowering down our axle so we can take out our springs. So I'm just going to lower my pole jacks here. And we just want to make sure that it's even. We're keeping an eye on our brake lines even though they are disconnected at the bracket.You also want to keep an eye on the breather hose on the differential. I usually just like to pop that off. There's no clip or anything. It's just a tube that you can just pull back. And then we can just lower this down. And you'll see the springs start to separate at the top. You can usually just do this one by one, but once you have enough room, you can wiggle the spring out on either side. You can even kind of rotate the spring, move the sway bar if you need to, and even pull down on the axle if you need to.So last but not least, once we have the springs out, we're just going to take out this isolator as well and we can do the same thing on the other side.Man: All righty, guys. Welcome back. Now that we've shown you how to uninstall your factory suspension, we're going to go ahead and start installing our new upgraded lift kit. So our first step is going to be to install our new lower perch for our springs. Now, what you're going to want to do is grab your new perch and put it onto the lower part of where your spring perch from your factory is. And you're going to need to grab a sharpie and drop that down into your perch and mark out the spot where you will need to drill a 3/8 hole so we can get our hardware in to mount it.Now, ours already has been drilled, so we're not going to do that, but that will be your first step in installing your springs. So now that we have that done, we're going to go ahead and install our lower perch. To do that, we're going to use our supplied bolts, two flat washers, and a flange nut for each one. We'll go ahead and slide that in. And we'll go ahead and install our flat washer and flange nut on the bottom here. To tighten this down, we'll go ahead and use our 14-millimeter wrench. Now, this is a flange nut on the bottom, so if you get it hand-tight, it should grab and one wrench should suffice. We'll go ahead and tighten that down, and then go ahead and repeat this process on the other side.So you may find it very difficult to get the new spring in if you can't lower your front differential low enough to get it over the new perch and up into place. So what you can do is go to your local auto parts store and rent a handheld spring compressor like we have here. Most of them are looking a little different, but basically, the principle is the same. You hook them onto your springs, clamp them down tightly, and go ahead and tighten them up and it will compress your spring. Obviously, we've gone ahead and done ours already. So we'll go ahead and install our spring. You may find you need to compress it more and more.So ours was a bit of a struggle, so we went ahead and got it on, but if you use a lot of caution with handheld spring compressors, I can't stress that enough, go ahead and compress your spring enough to get it up over your top perch and your bottom perch and get it into place. And then you can loosen up your spring compressor and set your spring.So for orientation purposes, the bottom of your last coil should line up with the end of where your factory coil rested in the bottom perch here and your factory upper isolator should have remained in place. We'll go ahead and make sure that's in line and reuse that for your upper isolator for your spring, obviously.Now that we have our spring in place, we can go ahead and mount our new shock, and to do that, we're going to start with the upper portion. Now, it comes with two rubber mounts here and two big washers, so you're going to have it oriented washer, rubber mount, body, rubber mount, washer, nut. So we'll go ahead and insert that up in and get our upper section installed.Now we can go ahead and get our nut into place. And we'll go ahead and get that hand-tight for now and then we can go ahead and raise our axle up and go ahead and get our bottom shock mount in place. So now that we have our upper mounting nut for our shock hand-tight, we can go ahead and raise our axle up and get our lower mounting point in place.Then go ahead and reuse your factory hardware from your shock. Slide that in. Go ahead and install our nut. And then we can go ahead and tighten this down using our 18-millimeter socket on a ratchet and an 18-millimeter wrench. Now that we have that tight, we can go ahead and tighten down our top mount. And now to tighten down our top mounting nut, we're going to go ahead and use our 19-millimeter wrench. And once you have that tightened down, we can go ahead and repeat this process on the other side.So, next, we'll come out to our sway bar and we'll grab our rear sway bar end links from the factory and we're going to move those to our front and they're going to be in place of our factory front. So we'll just go ahead and insert that. Get our nut on our top part here. And we can go ahead and line it up to our bottom mounting point here.So once you have your nut onto your top part of your end link, we can go ahead and line our bottom part up. You may need to move this sway bar a little bit, but it does move freely. Reuse the factory hardware. Go ahead and insert that and reinstall our nut. We'll go ahead and tighten this down using our 18-millimeter socket on our impact and a 19-millimeter wrench on the back side here to hold it in place. Then we can go ahead and tighten down our bottom mount using an 18-millimeter socket on our impact and an 18-millimeter wrench.And then we'll go ahead and repeat this process on the other side. So now we can go ahead and install our drop bracket for our brake line. So to do that, we're going to grab our bracket and reuse our factory hardware to mount it to this point. And go ahead and use your 10-millimeter socket on your ratchet to tighten that down. We can go ahead and massage our brake line down into place.And we'll use our supplied bolt, two flat washers, and a lock nut to go ahead and fasten that in place. Get our bolt in, get our flat washer in on the back side, and then install our lock nut. Then we can go ahead and tighten that down using our 11-millimeter socket on our ratchet and 11-millimeter wrench. Next, we can go ahead and reinstall our lower brake line tab. Go ahead and get that in the slot on the back side. And you may need a flathead screwdriver or a small pry bar to go ahead and work it back into place if it is stuck.So now we can go ahead and reinstall the bolt for our lower brake line bracket here. Go ahead and put that back in, and then we'll tighten that down using our 10-millimeter socket on our ratchet. Once you've got your drop bracket and your lower brake line bracket installed, you can go ahead and repeat this process on the other side. And then we can go ahead and put the wheels back on, lower the car down, use the steering wheel to reattach the front track bar, as well as use the weight of the vehicle to get our rear shocks lined up, and go ahead and do our final mounting on them and torque our rear control arms down.So now we've got our wheels on and the vehicle is ready to be lowered down, so we can use the weight of the vehicle to go ahead and mount our lower shock mounts in the rear. And then we can go ahead and use the steering system to re-align our front track bar. So we're going to start with the rear shocks, and this is when it's good to grab a buddy to operate your jack or lift as we have here, and go ahead and lower the car so you can keep an eye on your shock locations and make sure they are mounted correctly.So there's a couple things you want to keep an eye for when doing this. One is for your springs to make sure they are still sitting correctly because they are under no tension until you drop the wheels onto the ground. So you want to make sure they're lined up, as well as your rear shock lower mounting points. And at this point, communication is key with whoever is operating your jack or lift as we have here. So anything crazy, go ahead and call it out, tell your friend to stop, and adjust from there.So we'll go ahead and get started. And we'll get under here. All right, now you can tell your jack or lift operator to slowly begin lowering the vehicle down once you have your springs lined up. Go ahead and slowly lower. Stop. Double-check. Okay, go ahead and slowly lower. Okay, stop. Okay, now that you have your springs aligned, you can go ahead and move to our lower shock mounting points. Okay, go ahead and slowly lower. And, stop. Just a hair more.Okay, stop. Just a hair more. Keep going a little bit. Right there. And we can go ahead and see where we need to adjust. Go ahead and get our bolt through. Okay. Once we have that side through, we'll loosely install our nut. We can go ahead and take a look at our other side and do the same thing.Now that we have our lower shock mounting bolts in place, we can go ahead and tighten those down using our 18-millimeter socket on our impact and an 18-millimeter wrench. Go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. So now once we have our lower shock bolts tightened, we can come back up to our upper shock mounts and go ahead and tighten those down using our 16-millimeter socket on our ratchet and a 17-millimeter wrench for your nut. And once you have that tightened down, you can go ahead and repeat this process for the other side as well as reinstall your breather tube for your axle once you go ahead and drop this all the way down.So you just slip it back over this fitting here. And you're good to go. So now we're ready to go ahead and reattach our front track bar. And for this, you want to have a vehicle on the ground and go ahead and grab a buddy so he can operate the steering wheel and use your steering system to go ahead and line up your track bar. So we'll get under here and grab our factory hardware and go ahead and get ready to reinstall it.So you can see where it lines up. And if you need to make any adjustments, this is right down here on your passenger side at the lower track bar mount on your axle. And it looks like we're in good shape for our alignment. And we'll go ahead and slide that through. And you may need to have your buddy wiggle the steering wheel just a little bit. Go ahead and give it a little bit of a turn. Cory, you go ahead and turn it just a little bit. Other way. There we go.Okay. Now that we have our hardware through, we can go ahead and grab our factory catch nut. Go ahead and get that lined up. This can be a bit of a tedious process to get this nut back on. And we can go ahead and tighten this down using our 21-millimeter socket and extension on our impact.So now once you've gotten everything tightened down, the vehicle's on the ground, everything's in place, you wanna make sure that everything is double-checked and tightened and torqued to spec. The rear lower control arms are 125 foot-pounds. And everything else is good to go. Your wheels are back on. And it's definitely recommended to get an alignment after installing this lift.All righty, guys, that about wraps up our review and install of our officially licensed Jeep 2.5-inch Suspension Lift Kit with Reservoir Shocks for your '07 to '18 Jeep Wrangler JK. Thanks for watching. And as always, for everything Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Brand||Officially Licensed Jeep|
|Lift Height||2.50 Inch|
|Lift Kit Type||Suspension Lift|
|Lift Kit Includes Shocks||Shocks Included|
Officially Licensed Jeep J167428
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 6 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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