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Mammoth 2.50-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Shocks (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)

Item J143272
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      Product Videos

      Merideth: If you're looking for an affordable way to lift and level your 2007 to 2018 JK Wrangler, this Mammoth 2.5-inch Suspension Lift Kit with Shocks will be a great option. Now, this kit will be a great entry-level, mild-height lift choice for the JK owner looking to keep it relatively simple, whether that's to get a more aggressive look or more clearance for better performance on the trail. Speaking of that height, this kit will also be able to fit up to a 35-inch tire very comfortably in the wheel well if you're looking for a kit that's going to accommodate up to a 35, no matter how aggressive the tread pattern.Not to mention, if you need to start replacing worn components like your shocks for better drivability but you don't wanna completely break the bank and still want quality components, this kit is going to do just that for you.Now, this kit will feature shocks, springs, bump stop extensions for the front and the rear, rear sway bar end links, a rear track bar relocation bracket, as well as brake line drop brackets, which is everything you need to get that height, as well as some better drivability if your factory suspension, especially your shocks, are starting to go. Now, breaking down this kit, the springs are what's going to offer you that 2.5-inches of additional height, but are also tuned for a comfortable and a smooth ride no matter where you're taking your JK.The shocks will also feature a gas-charged monotube design, which will offer a more responsive ride to reduce body roll on the road and resist any fluid-like bouncing off-road, which is also going to reduce shock fade over time for that long lifespan. The other components in the kit like the bump stop extensions, sway bar end links, the rear track bar relocation bracket, and even the brake line drop brackets are going to accommodate for that additional height to resist any loss in drivability and resist any excess wear, keeping your ride very comfortable over time.When it comes to the construction of this kit, starting off the springs, these are gonna have a high tensile construction to support both a two and four-door application. The shocks in this kit is where you're getting a big upgrade with an outer steel construction finished in a durable black powder coat, a large hard chrome OE style piston rod for good durability and corrosion resistance, as well as a premium oil and knock seals to ensure a leak-proof design.Now, the gas-charged design, in addition to the build, will offer consistent and reliable dampening for better performance than factory and better longevity than the factory, especially if you're off-roading your Jeep often. Now, the sway bar end links will also be made of a steel construction with high-density polyurethane bushings, which won't get brittle and crack like the factory rubber bushings.Now, the rest of the components in the kit are gonna be a mix of materials. The rear track bar relocation bracket and the brake line drop brackets will be made of a steel material. These front bump stop extensions will be made of a tough billet aluminum material. And then on the back, the rear bump stop extensions will be made of a dense plastic material. Not to mention, it's gonna come with every single nut and bolt that you need to install this in the kit being complete, and you won't have to do any major modification in order to get this installed.Now, like I mentioned, this will be pretty affordable compared to other 2.5-inch lift kits in the category at around $625. Now, what I like most about this kit is that this is not gonna break the bank while including everything you need to get 2.5 inches of lift and retain real good drivability. Now, lift kit pricing, a lot of the time, does come down to what's included in the kit. So I think if you want more than a leveling kit but you don't need a super high-performance option if you're not doing any hardcore off-roading, you just want a good middle ground option that's gonna get you started and save a few bucks in the meantime, then this kit is gonna be a great one for you.Now, install is going to be a tougher two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter and should take you roughly four hours to get the job done as long as you have the right tools and the right setup. Now, at this point, we can head over to the shop and check out the detailed breakdown on how to get this lift kit onto your JK. So that is going to wrap it up for me. Let's go ahead and jump into the install.Male Speaker: For this install, you will need a drill, various impacts, a ratchet, swivel adapter, various size extensions, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18 and 21-millimeter sockets, 8, 11, two 13-millimeter, 14, 18, 21, and 22-millimeter wrenches, a pair of vice grips, a flathead screwdriver or a pry bar, ratchet strap, spring compressor, drill bit, punch, and sharpie. Also not shown here is a pole jack or jack and jack stands.What's up, guys? Today we're gonna be installing a lift kit on our Jeep, so let's get started. So now we come to the front of our Jeep and we've got our pole jack supporting our differential again. The first thing we're gonna do, just as with the rear, we're gonna go ahead and remove the brake line bracket from the frame. So for this one, we're gonna go ahead and pop this ABS line out of its retainer here. We'll grab our 10-milsocket on our impact and take that bolt out.We'll go ahead and pop that out, let that hang just like so, and we'll do the same thing for the other side. Now we can go ahead and remove our lower shock mounting point. So we'll grab our 18-mil socket and 18-mil wrench, go ahead and pop these off. You may need to go ahead and push up with your pole jack or jack to get your differential to release the tension on the bolt here. We'll go ahead and lower that back down.Then we'll do the same thing for the other side. So now we're gonna go ahead and remove the top mounting point for our shocks. And for that, we're gonna go ahead and grab some vice grips and just go ahead and lock on to our shock shaft here. Then we'll grab our 14-mil wrench, go ahead and remove this top nut. Once it gets to a low enough point, we can try and get our ratcheting side of our wrench on. You may not be able to right away. You might have to lower it a little bit more with the open-end side. And once you get close to it coming out, you wanna definitely grab on to the bottom of your shock to support it. Go ahead and finish this off by hand. Go ahead and remove our front shocks.So now that we have our shocks out, we can go ahead and move on to our sway bar end links. So for our top mounting nuts here, we're gonna go ahead and grab our 18-mil socket on our impact and run those off. Then for our bottom one, we're gonna switch out to an 18-millimeter socket on our ratchet and an 18-millimeter wrench. Go ahead and take that off and remove our end links. We'll do the same thing for the other side.Now we can go ahead and remove our lower track bar bolt. Now, this does have a flag nut on the back, so you don't need a wrench. You will simply need a 21-millimetersocket and maybe an extension on your impact. Now that we have that loose, we can go ahead and drop our differential down and get our factory springs out of their purchase. Go ahead, pop our springs out, and repeat that for the other side.So we've got our Jeep up in the air, we've got the wheels off, and the first thing we're gonna do in the rear here is remove the mounting bolt for our brake line bracket. This is gonna give us a little bit of extra room as to not put stress on our brake lines, and we are gonna be adding an extension bracket into there. So we're gonna grab our 10-mil on our impact and go ahead and pop that off real quick and let that hang down, and then we'll do the same thing for the other side.So now we've got the vehicle raised up a little bit more and we've got pole jacks under the rear differential to go ahead and support that. And what we're gonna do first is loosen these two forward-mounting bolts for our control arms. We're not gonna fully remove them, but loosening them is gonna allow for easier lowering of our differential. So we'll grab our 21-mil socket and swivel adapter on our impact. Go ahead and just loosen those up just a little bit. These do have flag nuts on the backside, so you don't need a wrench for that. Then we'll do the same thing for the other side.So next we're gonna come under here and we're gonna pop our vent tube off of our differential. This is just gonna prevent it from getting damaged while we lower the differential, and it simply just pops off, there's no clip or anything. Now we're gonna go ahead and remove the 10-millimeter mounting nuts holding our parking brake cable bracket in place. So we'll go ahead and grab our 10-mil socket on our impact again, run these off. We can go ahead, just make sure our bracket comes down freely.After that, we can go ahead and remove our lower shock mounting bolts. So we'll grab our 18-mil socket on our impact and an 18-mil wrench, pop these off. Then we can go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. Next, we can go ahead and get at our two 16-millimeter top mounting bolts. Now, you only have to fully remove one, you can just loosen the other as these are slotted mounting points and we're gonna be reusing this hardware. So we'll grab our 16-mil and our extension on our impact. We'll go ahead and remove this side.Then for this side, we're just gonna loosen it enough to slide this out like that. We can go ahead and remove our shocks. We'll do the same thing for the other side. So now we can go ahead and remove our sway bar end links. So we'll grab our 18-mil socket and our impact again and our 18-mil wrench and we'll remove the upper mounting nut and the lower mounting bolt. Now, you don't wanna discard these because these are gonna be moving up front to replace our current front sway bar end links.So now once we have that out, we can go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. So now we're gonna go ahead and loosen our upper track bar mounting bolt and then go ahead and remove the lower one so we can swing our track bar out of the way and lower our differential. So we'll grab our 21-mil socket on our impact, loosen this one up. You may need to go ahead and grab a 21-mil wrench as well to get on the nut for the backside, and again, just loosen it up a little bit, and then we'll move on to our lower mounting bolt. Now, this bolt does have a flag nut on the back, so you won't need a wrench for that.So now we can go ahead and lower our differential down and remove our factory springs. And once they get low enough, go ahead and pop those right out. Now, you do wanna save your isolators off the top of your spring because we will be reusing those for the new springs. So now that we have our springs out, it's time to go ahead and grab our bump stop spacers for the front. Now, what you would do here is grab this spacer and center it up in your perch. Then you would take a sharpie and go ahead and mark the center of that. And then you would go ahead and use a 9/64ths drill bit to go ahead and make a clearance hole for your hardware. Now, we won't actually be drilling into ours because we already have the holes drilled in due to previous installs, but that is the process you would take. Make sure you use a center punch, makes drilling a lot easier. And once you get your hole drilled, clean that up and you'll be ready to install your spacer with your hardware.So now that you have your hole drilled and you're ready to install your spacer, we can go ahead and grab our 14-millimeter bolt and flat washer. We're gonna run that through our spacer like so first, then we can go ahead and just drop that down into our mounting hole. Then we're gonna grab our flange nut, come into the bottom with that. Now, you can't really see this because it's inside the perch, but you're basically just gonna thread that in place, and run that down until it's hand-tight. Then you wanna do that for the other side, and then we'll go ahead and tighten this down.So now we can go ahead and grab our 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench. And since this is a flange nut on the bottom, you could try to get a wrench up in here, but it's honestly a bit of a pain. So if you hold it in place and you already have it hand-tight, you should be able to just go ahead and get that cranked down. That flange nut will grab onto the base. And go ahead and tighten that down, then repeat for the other side.So now we are gonna reuse our factory upper isolators from our springs. Now, a lot of times, they do get stuck up in their position, which is actually fine because you can just stick the new spring up to it. But they will hold on the tube for the bump stop that is there. So if it does come out, you can just kind of push it back up into place. It makes it a lot easier trying to get your spring up in there so you're not fiddling with that while you're trying to get it into position.Now it's time to get our new spring into position. Now we've got our differential lowered down a pretty good amount, but we're also using a handheld spring compressor, and that's kinda gonna make it easier. Go ahead and slide that up. Get that in position, and work our spring over top of our new spacer. Then we can drop this down a hair. Let that come right back down. Then we can go ahead and release the tension on our spring compressor.Now, these handheld-style spring compressors come in many different forms. They are easily available and usually free to rent from any auto parts store or local store's place. It's a very convenient tool to have. Now we'll go ahead and use our 19-mil socket on our impact to go ahead and let that tension out.Once we have that released, go ahead and pull our retainer pins. We're gonna pop our hooks off of our spring. We'll make sure the bottom of our coil lines up with the factory recess in our spring perch. So we'll go ahead and get that lined up. We're just gonna raise our differential with our pole jack just enough so that it can't really easily come forward. And then once we get the rest of it installed, we'll bring that back up and lock it into place. And now that you have this done, you can go ahead and repeat this process for the other side.Now, we're gonna go ahead and get our sway bar end links installed. Remember, we are using the factory rear end links for the front now. So we'll go ahead and get those mounted up using the factory hardware that came off of them. We'll get our 18-millimeter nut up top. Then we can go ahead and get our 18-millimeter bolt. You may need to play around with your differential a little bit and your sway bar itself to get these to line up. Once we get that through, go ahead and install our 18-millimeter nut.So now that we have both sides installed loosely, we can go ahead and tighten them down. So we'll grab our 18-mil socket on our impact, tighten down our top mounting nuts. Then we can go ahead and switch out to our 18-mil socket and ratchet and 18-mil wrench for our bottom hardware. Then we'll go ahead and do the same thing for the other side.So now it's time to get our shocks in place. So we'll go ahead and get our lower washer and lower bushing on our top mount of our shock. Then I'm gonna take my upper bushing, put that on the body mount side and line it up with the mounting hole just like so. It has a little detent that puts it right in the proper spot.So now that we have our washer on, we'll go ahead and install our supplied top mounting nut. It's easier if you just get your mounting shaft about halfway up into there and get your nut onto it, and then start tightening it down by hand a good bit. Once we have that on, we can go ahead and tighten down that top mounting nut the rest of the way. So we'll use our 18-mil wrench to get our nut as tight as we can until the shaft starts spinning, and then we'll add in our 8-millimeter wrench if needed. I would advise against trying to use a ratcheting wrench for this as the clearance inside of here is not enough once you get the shaft all the way tightened to get it out. So you will run into a problem there.So once we've got our top shock mounting nut on, we can go ahead and get our lower mounting point in place. We'll go ahead and raise our differential up to meet our shock. Get that lined up. Go ahead and get our factory mounting bolt back in place. Go ahead and get that in. We'll reinstall our factory 18-millimeter mounting nut. We'll go ahead and grab our 18-mil wrench and 18-mil socket and go ahead and get this tightened down. Then you can go ahead and do the same thing for the other side.So now we can go ahead and install our brake line extension brackets. So we'll go ahead and set those in the factory mounting point and we'll have the arch of the bracket facing out away from the frame. Then we're gonna use our factory 10-millimeter screw. Go ahead and bolt that on. Grab our 10-mil socket on our impact and tighten this down. We want this facing pretty much straight down.So next, you'll wanna massage your brake line down enough to allow you to mount to the new bracket here. Ours has obviously already been massaged down from previous installs. It's pretty simple, it's just a hard line, it does flex though. You just make sure you don't wanna kink it or anything like that and it should just come right down and allow you to mount. So we'll grab our provided 11-millimeter bolt and flat washer, go ahead and get that through. Then on the back side, we'll add another flat washer followed by our 11-millimeter lock nut. Then we'll grab our 11-mil socket on our impact and our 11-mil wrench, go ahead and tighten this down.And once you have that done, I like to leave this out just to give it a little bit more room, but it will go back in if you so choose. And then you can go ahead and repeat the same process for the other side. So now we're ready to start going back together. So the first thing we're gonna do is grab our bump stop spacers and we're gonna go ahead and install those on our perches here. Now, you'll note that the angled portion and the lower angled portion, you want to face towards the rear of the vehicle. So it's gonna sit like this on your perch. And we're gonna bolt these down with two of our 13-millimeter bolts, two flat washers, and two 13 millimeter flange nuts.This back one here is a little bit tricky to get in. So if you wanna slide that bolt in first and kind of line it up like so, then you can kind of pick it up and get your flange nut in position. And once you have this lined up, it kind of makes it easier to get it started. Then we'll go ahead and get our front bolt installed, kind of the same deal. Get our bolt lined up. Get our flange nut in place. Kind of pick the bolt back up. I'll go ahead and get that started.So now we'll go ahead and grab two 13-millimeter wrenches. Go ahead and tighten these down. We'll do the same thing for the other bolt and we'll get the other side installed. So now we're ready to install our new spring. So we're gonna grab that upper isolator that we saved from the factory springs. You'll notice the indent from the factory springs. You wanna kind of line that up with the new one. We're gonna go ahead and get those up into place. Pop this right in like so. Then we'll do the same thing for the other one.Next, we can go ahead and install our track bar relocation bracket. That's gonna slide over our factory track bar mount. It's gonna line up with these two mounting holes right here. Set that in place, and we're gonna grab two more of our 13-millimeter bolts and flat washers, and go ahead and get those through. Go ahead and get both of these in. And we're gonna grab two more flat washers along with our two provided lock nuts, and go ahead and get those on the backside. Now, this is kind of hard to see because it is in the mounting point here for the differential. These nuts are gonna go right through on the backside and mount to these bolts.So the lower mounting nut is pretty easy to get to. You can just reach up behind here and go ahead and access that. The upper one, however, there is enough of a gap in between the diff and this mount. You pull your bolt back. You can get it pretty much in line, get the washer on first. Then we're gonna go ahead and do the same thing with our lock nut. Now, if you've never done this, it can be a little tricky. Just be patient with it. Try to keep a feel. It might even fall at the bottom. That's okay. I like to use this kind of two-finger grip here and just kind of slide it like so.So now we're gonna go ahead and put our new mounting bolt into our factory mounting spot here. So we'll grab our 21-millimeter bolt and the flat washer, we'll get that through. Make sure that lines up going out the back side of it. Now we can go ahead and install our flat washer and our provided lock nut on the backside of our mounting bolt here. This is tough to see because it's kind of inside this mount, but you do have a good bit of room back here once you get your hands in. Go ahead and get this nut started. And we're gonna leave this hand-tight as well. Then we can go ahead, and when we're ready, we'll get our track bar back in and we can tighten everything down all at once.Now we can go ahead and grab our track bar and get that into its new mounting spot on the relocation bracket. So we'll get it set in there. It's gonna be kind of close. Now, if it is a little bit off like this, that's okay. What we're gonna do is grab ourselves a ratchet strap and kind of just pull our differential that way a bit just to get it lined up. Now we'll go ahead and hook our ratchet strap up here to our factory mounting point and we'll take the other side. We're gonna go ahead and hook it right in here to this body side mount. We'll go ahead and tighten this up and we're just gonna give it enough tension to get our track bar lined up. You don't wanna go too crazy with it.So if we pull on it like that, it'll line up pretty solidly. So we'll go ahead and get that on. So now we'll grab our other 21-millimeter bolt and flat washer. Go ahead, we need to pull it just a little bit more just like so. We're kinda just gonna get this started like that. Now, your track bar is gonna be at slightly an angle. So if you need to, you can grab a small pry bar and get it in here under your track bar. Just kind of give it a slight pull just to kind of help it line up with your rear mounting hole. We'll go ahead and get our bolt in fully. Now, once that's in like that, we can go ahead and release our ratchet strap.So now that we have our flat washer on, we'll go ahead and install our provided lock nut. So now we can begin tightening down our hardware. We'll start with our smaller bolts. We'll grab our 14-mil socket and extension on our impact and a 14-mil wrench. Go ahead and tighten these down. And we'll do the same thing for that top bolt.Now we'll go ahead and tighten down our two mounting bolts here. So we'll grab our 22-mil wrench, 21-mil socket on our impact, and tighten these down. Now we can go ahead and tighten back up our upper mounting bolt for our track bar. So, again, with our 21-mil socket, tighten this, as well as our 21 mil wrench.So now we'll go ahead and install our new sway bar end links. So we'll get those in here. Get our top mounting nut in place. Then we're gonna reuse our factory hardware for our bottom mounting point. And we'll go ahead and get our other side on. So now we'll go ahead and grab our 19-mil socket on our impact to tighten down our top nut here. Then we can switch out to our 18-millimeter socket, our 18-millimeter wrench for our bottom mounting. Then we'll do the same thing for the other side.Now we'll go ahead and raise our differential up enough to hold our springs in their place. So now we can go ahead and get our new shocks in place. So we're gonna slide our new top mounting bracket onto that bolt that we left loose up here, then go ahead and get our other 16-millimeter factory mounting bolt back in place. We'll go ahead and get them tightened up. So now we'll grab our 16-mil socket and an extension on our impact again. We'll go ahead and tighten these down.So for our bottom mounting points for our new shocks, because of our new springs and the length of them, as opposed to trying to compress this enough to get it mounted while it's on the lift, it's a lot safer and easier to wait until we get the wheels back on the vehicle. We'll lower it down and use the weight of the vehicle itself to get our shock mounting point lined up with our differential. It's very simple. It's a lot safer that way. So we'll go ahead and leave these undone until the vehicle is complete and ready to drop, and then we'll go ahead and mount it, as well as tighten back up our control arms as you don't wanna tighten those up fully if they are not preloaded. So that's gonna go ahead and solve a few issues for us once we get the wheels on and get the vehicle on the ground.So now we're also gonna wait until we get it back on the ground to put our vent tube back on. There are also optional extenders for these vent tubes if you feel a little bit more comfortable with a little bit more travel, you know, and a little bit more flexibility so you don't rip that off on the trails or some pretty good off-roading. You do have that option as well. They are not sold with this kit, but they are readily available.So now we'll go ahead and get our parking brake bracket back in place. Get that back onto our two studs here, and get our two 10-millimeter nuts back on our studs. We'll go ahead and grab our 10-mil socket on our impact and tighten these back down. So now we can go ahead and add our brake line extender bracket. Go ahead and get that in place over here. We're gonna use our factory 10-millimeter bolt, mount that in place right here. Then we use our supplied hardware to mount it to the new bracket.Now we'll go ahead and grab our provided bolt and flat washer, and through the front of our bracket here. And on the backside, we will add another flat washer, along with a lock nut. So we can go ahead and tighten all this down. We'll use our 10-mil socket on our impact to tighten down our factory screw. Now we'll go ahead and grab our 11-millimeter socket on our impact and our 11-millimeter wrench, tighten down our new hardware. And you wanna go ahead and do the same thing for the other side.So now we've got the wheels on the vehicle, we've got it lowered down enough to have the weight of our Jeep kind of compress our springs enough to get our shocks mounted. Now we've got ours a little bit lower than the mount, which is always better than a little bit too high. Then we can go ahead and just grab a flathead screwdriver or a pry bar or something and just kind of work that in. You can always get that right back up to its mounting spot. So we'll go ahead and get our factory hardware back in and get these bolted up.We'll grab our 18-millimeter bolt. Go ahead and slide that through just like so. We'll go ahead and get our 18-mil nut on. We'll grab our 18-millimeter socket on our impact, or 18-mil wrench, go ahead and tighten these down. So now we've got our suspension pre-loaded again with our wheels on and the vehicle's on the ground. And now we can go ahead and tighten back down our control arm bolts here. So we'll grab our 21-mil socket and swivel adapter on our impact and tighten these back up. You can go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. And remember to always refer to your manufacturer-specific torque setting for all of your hardware you're installing.So now we're gonna use our steering wheel to go ahead and help line up our track bar. We're gonna show you what that looks like when the steering wheel is moving. It's gonna line the track bar up with the mounting point. And once we have that lined up, we'll go ahead and get our bolt and our flag nut back in place and bolt that down.So now that we've got it lined up, we'll go ahead and get our bolt back in place and get it through the backside. We'll get our flag nut on. Now that we have that started, we'll go ahead and grab our 21-millimeter socket and get that tightened back down. You may need to add a swivel adapter in here as your steering will be more in the way. Then go ahead and follow your manufacturer torque spec, go ahead and torque that down.Merideth: So that is going to wrap it up for my review and the install of this Mammoth 2.5-inch Suspension Lift Kit with Shocks fitting all 2007 to 2018 JK Wranglers. And remember, for all things Jeep, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Suspension Lift Kit - 2.5-inch Lift
      • Increases Ground Clearance
      • Mono Tube Shocks - Non-adjustable
      • Linear Rate Coil Springs
      • Rear Sway Bar Links
      • Direct Bolt-on Installation
      • Accommodates 35-inch Tall Tires
      • Fits 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Models

      Description

      Go Off-Road. Going off-road can be tough for your JK Wrangler’s stock suspension, that's why you need a lift kit that was specifically designed to take on the great outdoors. Luckily, this Mammoth 2.5-Inch Suspension Lift Kit has what you need to help you take on the obstacles found on and off-road. With 2.5 inches of lift, this kit can accommodate tires up to 35-inches in size. This Mammoth Kit features linear coil springs, bump stops and rear sway bar end links. What’s more, the included monotube shock absorbers will provide a highly comfortable ride, even when tested across rough terrain.

      Monotube Shocks. Manufactured using a gas pressurized mono tube design, the included Mammoth Shock Absorbers feature a mirror-finished, hard-chrome OE style piston rod that provides superior corrosion resistance and leak free sealing. While the combination of premium Eneos Oil and Freudenberg NOK seals ensures a great seal, long-life and consistent dampening over a wide range of temperature conditions to maintain dampening and rebound. Mammoth Monotube Shocks feature an outer steel housing that is completed in durable black finish for impressive good looks.

      Coil Springs. The front and rear coil springs included in this Mammoth 4x4 2.5-inch Suspension Lift Kit have been engineered to work perfectly in conjunction with the other components of the kit. These springs will not only aid in lifting your Wrangler for increased clearance, but they will also help to provide a smooth comfortable ride.

      Sway Bar End Links. The included rear Sway Bar End Links were designed to work with the new lifted ride height of this Kit. Manufactured from steel these, Sway Bar End Links feature high-density polyurethane bushings which are much more durable than the original stock rubber units to provide years of trouble free driving.

      Installation. Mammoth engineered their Lift Kit to be installed with no welding or cutting needed, making it a bolt-on kit. However, professional installation is recommended. With all the necessary hardware included, this Lift kit can be installed in about 4 hours time.

      Application. This Mammoth 2.50-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Shocks is designed to fit 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK models.

      Fitment:

      Mammoth J143272

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Coil Springs
      • (2) Front Shocks
      • (2) Rear Coil Springs
      • (2) Rear Shocks
      • (2) Front Bump Stops
      • (2) Rear Bump Stops
      • (2) Rear Sway Bar Links with Nuts
      • (4) Brake Line Extensions
      • (1) Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
      • (1) Bolt Sleeve
      • (2) 9/16-18 x 3" Bolts
      • (4) 9/16 Flat Washers
      • (2) 9/16 Lock Nuts
      • (2) 3/8-16 x 2.5” Bolts
      • (5) 3/8 Flat Washers
      • (5) 3/8 Lock Nuts
      • (1) 3/8-16 x 1.25” Bolt
      • (2) 3/8-16 x 1.00” Bolts
      • (4) 5/16-18 x 1.25"Bolts
      • (8) 5/16 Flat Washers
      • (4) 5/16 Nuts
      • (4) 1/4-20 x 1.25" Bolts
      • (8) 1/4 Flat Washers
      • (4) 1/4 Lock Nuts
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