(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$525.35 (kit)FREE Shipping
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The Currie Antirock Front Sway Bar Kit for the 2007 to 2018 JK is for anybody who ends up using their JK more off-road than on-road and doesn't wanna have to get out and continually disconnect and reconnect sway bars. This is going to be a pretty easy two out of three wrenches for the installation and I'm gonna show you how to do it in just a second. So, we all know the benefit to disconnecting your sway bar when you're off-road. A sway bar is more accurately an anti sway bar and it really keeps the body from rolling and keeps the suspension from articulating. When you're off-road, that's a bad thing. So you wanna disconnect that sway bar to give your suspension the most flexibility and freedom of motion. So you have a couple of different options. You can either unbolt your factory sway bar, you can have a quick disconnect that will use a pin, which will make the process a lot quicker and easier. Maybe you have a Rubicon and you can just push a button to electronically disconnect your sway bar but all of those, aside from the Rubicon option, are going to require you to get out and actually do something at the trailhead before and after you go off-roading because you wanna have a sway bar connected when you're on the road, especially in a lifted Jeep, it is much, much safer to have that additional stability. So what this is going to do for you is give you a new sway bar that is going to be softer than your factory sway bar. So it's still going to give you some stiffening on the road, not as much but some and then when you go off-road, because it is so soft, you don't have to disconnect it and it's still not going to limit your suspension articulation. That's what this kit is all about. So this kit is going to include everything you're going to need from the new sway bar itself to these really beefy sway bar arms to adjustable sway bar end links. In fact, these end links are double adjustable which makes it really nice. You can bolt the tie rod ends in place and then adjust them on the vehicle very, very simply then just tighten down those jam nuts. So a really well put together kit. Very well built and it does include everything you need to get it installed which is always nice also. Now one thing to note about this kit, the arms here only have one hole drilled in them. Some of the older kits from Currie will actually have multiple holes drilled in these arms here and what that would allow you to do is stiffen or loosen up the feel of the sway bar both on-road and off-road and again, it's not something you would be changing when you go from off-road to on and back again but just based on how you feel and how you drive your Jeep, you would be able to set that and you would have a little bit of tweaking. This does not have that. This only has one hole drilled in the arm here. It's just a note. Not a good thing, not a bad thing. Just something that I did wanna point out to you if that adjustability was something you're looking for, you're not gonna get that from this kit. Now Currie is known for building really high quality stuff. This kit is no different. Really, really well put together and because of that, you are gonna pay a little bit more than maybe some of the other choices on the market. This one coming in at just shy of that $500 mark. Do I think it's worth it? If you drive your JK more off-road than on-road and you don't wanna continually be disconnecting and reconnecting your sway bar, yes, I do think it's worth it. If you're out there wheeling every single weekend this is gonna save you a lot of time and a lot of headache and it's just going to be...make your Jeep a lot more and useful to you. So, yeah, I really do think it's going to be worth it. So this is going to be a two out of three wrenches for the install. Let me show you how to get it done. For this installation we used a variety of different sockets from 13 to 19-millimeter, as well as a variety of open-ended wrenches from 14 to 19-millimeter. We used a couple of different extensions and a few different tools to drive those sockets from a 3/8 socket driver to a 3/8 mattock socket driver, two different impacts, 3/8 electric and 1/2 inch pneumatic. We also used a large dead blow hammer and an adjustable wrench. Finally, we have our large socket that we use to help drive our bushings in place but you could use a variety of different tools for that purpose. So the first step in this very easy installation is removing your factory sway bar and that does include the end links. This is a simple process. As you can see, we have some quick disconnects on our sway bar already but we're not even gonna pull the quick disconnect pins. We're just going to remove the nuts just like you would on a factory set of end links then we'll unbolt the sway bar bushings from the frame up top here and get this completely out of the way. Now we are going to be reusing the hardware that'll hold the factory sway bar to the frame so make sure you save that for later but right now, we'll start by removing the end links from the axle. Now we'll move on to removing the bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame. Now we can move on to getting our new sway bar installed and we'll start by installing the bracket on the frame. So we have our factory of hardware and our first bracket. We'll get that bolted on. Now we're ready to install our bushing in our newly installed bracket. We're gonna do that on this side and actually get the sway bar installed on this side before we get the bracket installed on the other side. So the plastic bushing is right here. It is a pretty tight fit inside the bracket here so we have our dead blow mallet. We're gonna tap it in place. So, like I said, we're going to install our sway bar into our newly installed bushing and bracket before doing the other side here. So this is just gonna press in from the inside to the outside and you want the edge here that has the machining to be sticking out past the bushing because that's what our new sway bar arm is going to attach on to. So, again, everything's pretty tight here. Probably gonna have to give it a couple of taps with the dead blow. So now we need to get the bracket and the bushing installed over top of the sway bar on this side and there are gonna be a variety of different ways to do this, different orders to do this as well. We're going to first bolt our bracket up to the frame over top of the sway bar then we're going to try and drive the bushing over top of the sway bar and inside the bracket at the same time. If we do end up getting stuck, we have a couple of tricks up our sleeve that we can use the threaded hole on the end here to help pull everything together. So we'll see how far we can get with our dead blow. Now that we have our bracket in place, we'll slide the bushing over top of the sway bar and with a couple of shots from the hammer, we'll get it seated inside the bracket. Now that we have the bushing on pretty much as far as the end of the sway bar, we're going to use a large socket, in our case a 30-millimeter deep well, to drive the bushing even further into the bracket over top of the sway bar. We're gonna get it as far as we can get it. Then once we install our sway bar arm on to the sway bar by driving that screw in, it'll push the bushing the rest of the way but we should be able to get it pretty far with our socket. At this point our bushings still isn't fully seated but we're going to install our sway bar arm that'll help to seat the bushing a little bit further and when we install the other sway bar arm on the other side, that will pull everything fully together. Now, the angle of the sway bar at this point doesn't really matter too much. We're just setting the arm roughly parallel to the ground and we're going to install the hardware to pull everything together then when we switch over to the other side and get the other arm set up, we'll set the angle of the sway bar before installing the sway bar end links. With our hardware installed on the passenger-side, we jumped back over to the driver side here. We're going to get our arm for the sway bar at the same angle as the other arm on the passenger side and as you can see, we beefed up our hardware a little bit with a heavy-duty washer because we are going to have to pull everything together pretty well in order for all of our bushings and everything to seat properly. So I have that additional washer behind the washer that comes in our kit. We'll remove that once everything is completely pulled together. So we have our impact and we're going to tighten everything down. Now that we have this tight and our bushing on the other side is pulled in as far as it'll go, we'll remove this and put the factory hardware together. So we'll take our larger beefier washer off here. We won't need that anymore now that everything is pulled together. We're going to install the lock washer that comes with our kit over top of the bolt then the flat washer that comes in our kit and then we'll thread everything back together again. At this point, we'll finish up the installation of the sway bar arms on the sway bar before we move to the sway bar end link and that requires us to drop these clamping bolts and nuts into the end of the sway bar arms. We'll just install the same bolt and nut over on the passenger side. Now it's time to first assemble and then install our sway bar end links. So this is your end link and it is reversed thread on one side and standard thread on the other and that makes it really nice because you can very easily adjust the length of your sway bar end link with it on the vehicle without having to first unbolt your tie rod ends. So we have our end link here. We have our gold nut that's gonna go on our reverse thread end. So we'll get that started on there and you wanna run it in pretty good. We're gonna go back and tighten that down against our tie rod end after we have our length adjusted so we'll leave it about there. I'll flip the end link over and install our silver nut on that side and that's the standard threaded end, and again, we're just gonna, kinda, run it in there just to get it far enough that it's gonna be out of the way of our tie rod end. That should be good there. Now we'll grab the tie rod ends that come in our kit and we'll get those threaded on. So, again, you're gonna have to, sort of, play with them, figure out which end is which for the standard thread and the reverse thread. Looks like this one is going to be...yep, this is gonna go on our gold side on our reverse thread side and this one up here on the standard thread side. Now that the sway bar end link is assembled, we'll get it installed on the Jeep. So we're going to go on the axle side here on the inside but on the sway bar side, we're going to go on the outside. So as you can see, with our Jeep up in the air here, the end link is at a pretty good angle but you have to remember when weight is on the tires, again, the axle is going to move in this direction and it will set the sway bar end link back to pretty much vertical once the Jeep is on the ground. So we have it set like that. We will get our hardware on there and get that tightened down because, again, with the double adjustable, you won't have to take the tie rod ends off to adjust the length of the whole sway bar end link and we'll grab some tools and tighten those up. The last step in this installation is going to be adjusting the length of our sway bar end links and then getting these jam nuts tightened down. Now, how long do you make your sway bar end links? The proper way to set the length of the sway bar end link is to get the suspension midway through its travel exactly halfway between up travel and down travel, midway there and then set your sway bar arms so that they're parallel to the ground. Now, depending on your suspension setup, what sort of lift you have, your bump stops, your shock length, that is going to be very, very different from one Jeep to the next. So you can go through the exercise, it's a lot easier if you have a lift, of taking the Jeep all the way up and letting the suspension sag, taking some measurements and then compressing all the way to the bump stop or at least taking some measurements to where it would be when it's compressed all the way to the bump stop, figuring out halfway between the two of them and then doing the math to get your arm parallel to the ground or you can just set it a little bit above parallel when the Jeep's sitting on the ground under its own weight because, usually, a suspension will have a little bit more down travel than it will up travel. That's usually going to be good enough for the vast majority of you but again, if you really want to dial things in, you can do all the measurements and you can do all the math. We have our Jeep up in the air right now so, of course, the arms are going to be pointed down. They're pointed down but not quite as much as I would like them to be so what we're gonna do is shorten up our end links a little bit. We're gonna have to, sort of, do both at the same time at this point because they are attached on to, of course, the same sway bar. So we'll spin them both in, tighten them up a little bit and then we can tighten our jam nuts down, put a wrench on them, really torque them up and that'll be the end of the install. While these are new, they're gonna spin pretty easily by hand. You can certainly put some anti-seize in there so that you can adjust them down the line and there's also a flat spot on both of the sway bar end links if you ever did need to put a wrench on there to break them loose. So I think that's probably pretty good as far as a sway bar angle. Now we can go back and tighten up our jam nuts. So if you are one of those people that uses your JK more off-road than on-road and you're just tired of quick sway bar disconnect, this is going to be an excellent option for you from Currie and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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