(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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The Coyote 1.75-inch hub-centric aluminum wheel spacers in black are for anyone with the 2007 to 2018 JK that are looking for a spacer to push that wheel tire away from the Jeep a little bit either because you like the look or because you need some additional clearance. These are going to be a very easy one out of three wrenches for the installation and I'll show you how to get them installed in just a second.Now wheel spacers are one of those hotly debated products whether or not they have a negative impact on some of your other suspension components, ball joints, things like that. We're not gonna get into all of that in this video today but what we are going to do is show you this spacer here and how it can push that wheel tire package away from the Jeep a little bit. So this is a 1.75-inch spacer, it will essentially lessen the backspacing of your wheel or have that same effect so it moves the whole thing away. So if you have a big wheel and tire on your Jeep and you're running a factory wheel or maybe you have an aftermarket wheel but it doesn't have the backspacing that you need and when you turn the wheel and tire, the tire either hits on the control arm, on the frame or on the sway bar up front or maybe you're somebody who just likes that really wide stance and wants to push the wheel and tire away from the center line of the vehicle a little bit more, any of those reasons are a good reason to install a wheel spacer.Now, if you're looking at wheel spacers you're going to find two main categories. One is hub-centric, the other is lug-centric. This, as it says right in the name, is hub-centric and if you're going to be using a wheel spacer I would highly recommend a hub-centric one. What that means is that it's designed specifically for the size of the hub on this vehicle. So this whole center circle area makes contact with the hub and that's where all the weight of the vehicle is really riding and that's much, much stronger than if that wasn't making contact and all of that weight was on these factory studs here. That's not as strong of a connection especially with a 1.75-inch spacer, you're pushing everything away. A pretty good distance and more standard measurement would be like one and a half inch but that additional quarter inch, that does make a difference. There's a lot of stress there so you want to make sure you get something nice and strong and hub-centric is the way to go.Aluminum is nice because it's nice and lightweight. The fact that this one is anodized black, that's just an aesthetic thing. Some people like to look at that, some people don't. Depending on your wheel you may never even see the wheel spacer. If you have a wheel that is maybe a five-spoke design or something that's a little bit more open maybe you will see the spacer. And then if you have black wheels the black will match nicely. This is, of course, going to come with all the studs already pressed into the spacer which is nice. It comes with the additional lug nuts that you'll need to get the spacer itself attached onto the hub and you'll use your factory lug nuts to get your tire attached onto the spacer. This does not come with any sort of thread locker. I do recommend using that whenever you have a wheel spacer installed. Some kits will come with a little bottle of threadlocker, some will not. This one does not but this does come two to the box so you'll have enough for one axle. Of course, if you're installing this front and back make sure you pick up two boxes.Now, these are gonna come in at right around $70 for a pair of these and I don't think that's a bad price. You are gonna pay a little bit of a premium because these do have the anodized finish on them. If you're not interested in the way that they look, I would save a couple of dollars go with some that aren't anodized. They're going to be a little bit less expensive. So like we said one out of three wrenches for the install here. Let me show you how to get it done.For this install you'll need a three quarter-inch socket. We also used a 21-millimeter or a 13/16 would have worked as well because we have larger aftermarket lug nuts. You'll also need a extension and we drove those sockets and extensions with a combination of 3/8 electric impact, our half-inch pneumatic impact and of course our torque wrench. You also need a screwdriver or something similar to keep the hub from spinning while you're torquing down the lug nuts. So the first step in installing our wheels spacer is, of course, removing our tire. We have the convenience of a lift here but you could certainly do this with a jack and a jack stand as well. We're just going to remove the lug nuts and get the tire off.Now that the tire is out of the way we can get our wheel spacer installed and we really just slide it over the factory studs here, get it seated in place, and then we can remove the lug nuts that come pretty much in just a storage location on the studs of your wheel spacer. Take those off and thread those onto the factory studs right in the center of these holes here. So we'll install all of these and then we'll get them torqued down. Now while you're installing this, it's gonna be a good idea to put a couple drops of a threadlocker on those factory studs in there. You want to make sure that your wheel spacer is not going to come loose. This does not come with any threadlocker but again, it's a good idea to pick some up. You're also going to want to make sure you check the torque setting of these pretty much every oil change because again it's very important that these don't come loose and once the tire's installed you can't really get a visual of these studs and these nuts. So very important to make sure they're nice and tight, threadlocker and check them regularly.At this point, we'll use our impact just to snug these then we'll get out our torque wrench and make sure they're set to the proper torque spec. So we have our torque wrench all set up to 110 pounds, we're ready to torque these down but with an open differential this is going to want to spin while you're torquing. If you have a friend handy, you can have him sitting in the Jeep and hold the brake or you can take a screwdriver or something similar and shove it into the end of the rotor. That way as it comes around and the screwdriver makes contact with the caliper here it's gonna keep everything from spinning, that's what we're going to do. So we'll go ahead and torque these in a star pattern to 110 foot-pounds.With those lugs torqued down we can get the tire reinstalled and get those lug nuts torqued as well. Just like before, once we have all of the lug nuts started by hand we'll use our impact to snug them then we'll get the tire on the ground and use our torque wrench to do our final torque. As our last step, we'll torque the lug nuts on the tire.So if you're looking for a quality hub-centric wheel spacer and you like the black anodized look I would recommend this option from Coyote and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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