(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
Open Box from $494.50
Hey, guys. So today, I'm here with the Barricade Vision Series Front Bumper with the LED Work Lights, Fog Lights, and a 20-inch LED Light Bar, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. So this is gonna be for the JL owner looking to add a ton of utility to the front end of their rig, as well as a ton of extra lighting for extra visibility on those dark back roads and dark trails. So this is gonna offer a number of different benefits incorporated into the bumper, including recovery points for safe and efficient recovery on the trail, for any of those head-on obstacles on the trail, while not compromising any approach angles, and you also are getting a ton of LED lights mounted up to the front. Not to mention this is gonna add a ton of off-road and aggressive styling to the front end of your Wrangler, and I do like this styling because it stands out from the rest. It is gonna have a boxy design, which is non-traditional. It's gonna be very unique, and you're getting all these lights incorporated on the front with the riveted accenting giving it a more aggressive look.So this bumper is gonna be roughly $700, and I think for what this comes with, that price is a fair price point. Now, other less expensive choices are usually gonna be a little bit smaller. They may be for a mid-width or a stubby front bumper, and a lot of those are definitely not going to incorporate all the lighting that you see mounted up to this one. So choosing a front bumper comes down to your personal preference in design, as well as what you're looking to get out of the front bumper functionality-wise, and I personally think if you're looking for a fully capable front bumper that's gonna offer you a different, non-traditional style...So I personally think if you're looking for a fully capable front bumper that's gonna offer you a ton of functionality and utility, as well as something that's going to be very different and stand out from the rest as far as styling goes, it's not gonna be your traditional styling, then this is gonna be right up your alley.So install is gonna be a very easy one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. There is a little bit of wiring involved, as you can probably assume, however, Barricade does provide you with all the wiring harnesses for that, so it is pretty easy. So it's probably not gonna take you any longer than one hour to get bolted up with some basic hand tools. So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for my install were a trim removal tool, a pair of wire cutters, strippers and crimpers, a 4-millimeter Allen socket, an 8-millimeter, 13-millimeter, 12-millimeter, 16-millimeter, and 18-millimeter deep socket, a 16-millimeter and 13-millimeter shallow socket, a 13-millimeter open-ended wrench, a 3/8-inch drive and 1/4-inch drive ratchet, flathead screwdriver, and an impact wrench.So our first couple of steps are going to include taking off our upper splash guard as well as our lower, and then we can fully remove our bumper. And now, for the upper splash guard, you're gonna need a flathead screwdriver or a trim removal tool, and we're going to pop off the eight pop clips that are holding in the splash guard. So you're gonna have two in the frame rail on the bottom of your splash guard. You can just push that pop pin to the top, and then pull it out. And then you're gonna have six along the front.Now, you don't necessarily need to take off the six along the front. I'm just doing it just to give you guys a better view on how we're actually going to take off the bumper. Now, like I said, you can also use a trim removal tool to do this, however, I think a flathead is a little bit easier than a trim removal tool, just because there are indents on the side to pull up that tap. Now, I would like to mention if you have a sport model front bumper, there will be two 7-millimeter screws behind here that you will need to remove, however, we are working on a Sahara here, so we do not have those on our front bumper. Once those clips are removed, now we can fully remove this upper splash guard out of the way. So now that we're underneath our Jeep, we are at the lower splash guard here. We are gonna remove the two 8-millimeter bolts in these recessed holes on either side of our lower splash guard. So I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter deep socket and an impact wrench to get those off.So now we can remove the eight pop clips that are holding in the front of our splash guard. I'm gonna be using a trim removal tool in order to remove those. So after this last pop clip is removed, we'll be able to fully remove our splash guard. So after our final pop clip is removed, we can fully remove our splash guard. So our next step is to remove this lower skid plate and get it out of the way so we can access our bolt on our bumper. I'm gonna be using a 16-millimeter socket to remove the two bolts that are holding it in. So after that is removed, we can slide our skid plate up and remove it. So there is a trim piece here. I did remove it in order to give you guys a better look at the studs coming through our frame rail. I'm gonna be removing these two nuts with an 18-millimeter deep socket and my impact wrench. So now on the inside of your frame rail, you're gonna have the same two studs, and we're going to remove those two nuts with that same 18-millimeter socket. However, you may want to use a hand ratchet, because it is difficult to get an impact wrench in here. So now we can do the same thing for the other side, for those inner studs. So now, before we can remove our factory bumper, we do need to disconnect our main fog light wiring harness. All we have to do is to press that clip and pull back, and it'll pop right out. Now we can remove our bumper. So now we can take off our bumper just by pulling back and getting this out of the way.So before we go ahead and install our new front bumper, I do wanna tell you guys a little bit more about it in comparison to your factory front bumper. Now, right off the bat, this is gonna offer you a ton of different benefits that your front bumper is unable to allow you, and that first one is gonna be some heavy duty protection. So with your factory front bumper, you do get a plastic cover on the outside and then a steel crash bar on the inside. However with this, this is going to be completely made of a heavy duty steel material. You do get a nice textured black powder coat finish on top to protect that steel underneath, but that steel material is gonna be able to take a hit a whole lot better than your factory front bumper. That can get pretty scuffed up and pretty damaged. As you can tell, we've taken a couple of hits with ours and it hasn't held up as well as this one will. So this is also going to feature a number of different benefits that your stock bumper is unable to give you, including welded D-ring mounts on the front for recovery, as to where your factory tow hooks are not as safe and efficient as these D-ring mounts. You are getting a drop-in winch plate. It's not gonna be completely drop in, however, it will be a little bit lower than some of the other options on the page, keeping that winch protected, and it's able to hold up to a 12,000 pound capacity winch, so that is gonna be very strong, and your front bumper is unable to offer you a winch at all. So that is a big benefit there.Now, you also are getting with the protection aspect of this bumper, a bull bar up at the top to give you a little bit of extra grille protection from any head-on obstacles, and overall, from end to end, you are keeping roughly the same length, but on the sides, they're gonna be angled a little bit up for better approach angles while you're out on the trail. Now, the big thing about this bumper is the extra lighting that is included with it. So you get two work lights on the outside, you have two 3-inch cube lights on the inside, as well as a 20-inch LED light bar up top. We don't have it mounted up just yet. We'll do that in just a second. But this is gonna add a ton of extra visibility to help you out on dark back roads or on dark trails, as to where your factory front bumper only has your two fog lights mounted up front. So overall, this front bumper is gonna be way more beneficial than your factory one is.So enough about these two side by side. Let's go mount up our new one. So before we go ahead and mount up our bumper, we do need to install our lights. Now, I already installed these for the comparison between our factory front bumper and this new bumper, however, I still did wanna show you guys how to put in the lights. So right out of the box, you are gonna have a back plate installed. There are four threaded holes, and you do have button head bolts. So you're going to take a 4-millimeter Allen key and remove those four bolts and then remove the back plate, and then we can go ahead and insert our cube light. So that is just going to sit flush in there, and then we can reuse those button head bolts and tighten them down with a 4-millimeter Allen key.We're gonna get them all threaded first and then we'll go back and tighten them down. I'm just using a 4-millimeter Allen socket. And then you can do that for your other light. So as you can tell, I flipped the bumper over because now we're going to install our LED light bar brackets. You're gonna have two tabs up on your bull bar here, and you also are gonna get some L brackets as well that are going to mount up in place. So you are going to have some stainless steel hardware, you're gonna have a bolt, two flat washers, a lock washer, and a nut. So once that's threaded on, we can position the bracket where we need it, and we can just snug that up. Now, if we do have to make an adjustment in the future, that is just gonna be snugged up, it's not gonna be tightened down, so we will be able to move that around. We're gonna do the same thing with our other bracket.So now, you can grab your LED light bar, and we can go ahead and mount that up on the brackets. Now, you are gonna get some stainless steel hardware for your light bar to be mounted through the bracket. It's gonna be a bolt as well as a flat washer. We're going to thread this in on one of the sides, only a couple of times, and then we can move to the other side and thread that in to the other side of a light bar. So now, we can secure down the other side of the light bar with that same hardware, and then we're gonna tighten down evenly on both sides of the light bar. So you wanna make sure that it's pointed in the angle that you want, and then we can take a 13-millimeter socket and go ahead and evenly tighten the two.Now we can tighten the top bolt with a 13-millimeter wrench and a 13-millimeter socket. So at this point, we're ready to mount up our bumper. Now, this bumper is very heavy, so I would recommend to grab a friend in order to mount it up. So now, we're going to secure the bumper down. Now, you will have studs on the outside, so we're gonna use the flat washer, lock washer, and nut in order to secure them down. Now, we are not going to tighten anything down just yet because we do have to get all of our hardware in before we go ahead and do that. We just want to make sure that the bumper is secured, so it does not fall down on us. Now, for the inside of the frame horns, we are gonna use a bolt instead of having a stud there to put a nut on. So we are gonna be using the provided bolt, lock washer, and flat washer. We're gonna thread that through the frame horn and into the threaded hole in the bumper.So we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. So now, we can go ahead and tighten those down with the 16-millimeter deep socket. So after we have our bumper on and tightened down, we can move on to wiring up all of our lighting. Now, you are provided with wiring harnesses for the work lights, the cube lights, as well as the light bar. We're gonna start with our work lights. Now, you are provided with two harnesses. One is for the negative, one is for the positive. We're gonna connect the two work lights together, and what I'm gonna do is wire them into our fog lights. Now, you can wire them into wherever you'd like, if you wanna wire them into a switch, into your fuse, if you want them to be battery operated. Basically, I'm going to replicate the factory fog light wiring harness with the wiring harness that Barricade provides me. I also am using all of my own connectors. So right out of the box, these wiring harnesses will come with their own connectors, and depending how you want to wire them up, that's gonna be up to you. I am not gonna be using those connectors. I'm gonna be using my own butt connectors as well as quick disconnects, so we can make sure that we can take our bumper off in the future. So what I'm gonna do is just wire in the longer end to the far side, and start with our negative wire.So what I'm gonna do is connect the two negative wires to a butt connector. I'm gonna crimp down this one side, make sure it stays in place. Same for the other negative wire. We're gonna do the same thing for the positive. Now we can connect the other side of our wires to our other work light. So since we already have a quick disconnect wired up into our factory fog light harness, what I'm gonna do is add a quick disconnect on the male side to our wiring harness for our work lights. Now, I would recommend heat shrinking everything and tying up your wiring at the end to make sure it's out of the way. So now we can plug in our quick connectors. As you can tell, I already have leads on here. And for those leads, all you have to do is splice into that factory wire. I would recommend to take a voltage meter to make sure which is the positive. It should be the white wire with the orange trace, and then the black is the negative wire. So all you have to do is splice that under there, and then that will be a quick disconnect. So if we have to take off our bumper in the feature, you can easily disconnect that.So what we're gonna do now is wire in our light bar as well as our cube lights. Now, Barricade does provide you with plug and play wiring harnesses for those three lights. The cube lights are gonna be run into one wiring harness, and then we have a separate wiring harness for our light bar. So what we're gonna do is start by dropping our connections down behind our grille. We're gonna open up our engine bay, then we can connect it to our battery and run our switch into our cab area. But first, we have to open up our hood. So I have both of the wiring harnesses in hand. What I'm gonna do is take the connectors that we have to plug into the lights and run them behind the grille and drop them down, so we can get most of this wire out of the way, so when we hook it up to our battery and run our switch through, we don't have to fumble through a lot of wire.So, right on the side of your headlight bucket here, we can start to run the wire through, and you will be able to access that down at the bottom if you pull this trim piece back. What we can do now is attach our positive leads to our positive battery terminal and our negative leads to our negative battery terminal on our wiring harnesses. So I'm gonna take a 12-millimeter socket and remove one of the accessory nuts, then add our positive leads and attach that nut. Tighten that down. You need a 12-millimeter deep socket. I would recommend using a 1/4-inch drive ratchet because it's small and you don't want to hit the ground with the other side of the ratchet and ground yourself out. All right, so now we can move to the other side of the battery. I'm gonna be using a 13-millimeter socket to remove this accessory nut. And we can do the same thing.So what I do like about these wiring harnesses in comparison to the work light, work light wiring harnesses, is the fact that these do have an inline fuse as well as a relay connected there. So you are safe there. We can tighten that down, and we can go ahead and run our switch up the back of our engine bay and through our firewall. So I disconnected the main part of our switch so we could fit these wires through our firewall. Now, on the side of your master brake cylinder, there will be a hole that you can route these wires through, and they're gonna drop down near your pedals. So, maybe a little bit difficult to see. Okay. Maybe a little bit difficult to see, but once you pass those through, you should be able to reach up underneath your steering wheel, and they should be right down there. So now, we can go into our cab area and connect our switch.So those leads are going to pop out right down to the left of your brake pedal, and then we can go ahead and connect the other side of our switch, and then mount up our switch. So you can mount your switches up wherever you want. I am just going to put this right underneath our light switch. And then you wanna make sure that you clean up the wiring harness inside your cab area, just so it's out of the way of your pedals for safety. So our last step is just to plug in all of our auxiliary lights, and then we can clean up our wiring and make sure it's all out of the way.That's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe, and for more videos like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Fitment: 2018 2019 2020
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(approx) 1 Hour
Simple installation for anyone.
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