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Merideth: Hey, guys. So, today, we're checking out the Barricade Trail Runner Rear Bumper with the LED Trail Lights, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. Now, this rear bumper will be incredibly useful for off-road adventures by adding utility and protection to the rear end of the Jeep while helping you out with rear-end visibility if you need work lighting or help backing up at night. Not to mention, the hybrid steel tube and plate construction will also add a lot of styling that stands out compared to other traditional heavy-duty rear bumpers if you're looking for something unique.This will feature two recovery points, providing two welded D-ring mounts, one on either side, which will come in handy in any sticky situations if you're taking your JL off-road, being rated for up to 9,500 pounds. Now, again, this will also include two 3-inch LED cube lights that will offer a lot of lighting out of the rear end, and you can tie them into the plug-and-play switch that will mount up to the back of the lights and route all the way to the front of the Jeep, making sure that you don't have to do any additional wiring. Additionally, if you have factory backup sensors, this will be compatible, so you don't have to sacrifice those factory features. This will also come with a license plate mount and the lights included, being a fully inclusive kit.This bumper will be made of a steel tube and plate construction, being durable enough to take a hit off-road. Now, on top of that, there's gonna be a nice textured black powder coat finish to protect the steel underneath and provide a pretty heavy-duty look. Now, this will have the integrated fog lighting, and those are gonna be tough as well with an aluminum body, a polycarbonate lens, and they're gonna be IP67 water and dustproof-rated. This will also have a cutout down at the bottom to allow you to keep your factory hitch or add one in the future.This rear bumper will come in at roughly $600, which is pretty average for a heavy-duty rear bumper, especially with all of the features that are included with this one. Now, compared to other choices, this will have the hybrid tube and plate construction. It's gonna have the lighting and the ability to reuse the factory backup sensors. Now, you will usually see one or the other when it comes to the build, either a full steel plate construction or just full tubing, and a lot of those are not going to have additional lighting, especially at this price point.Now, then you do have the more expensive choices that will, a lot of the time, come with a tire carrier. However, if you don't need the additional carrier and you want a functional rear bumper that's gonna provide the protection, utility, and style that you need for your JL, then this is a great pick.Now, install will be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about two hours to get the job done with some basic hand tools. Now, at this point, we can head over to the shop and check out a detailed breakdown of the install and what that looks like step by step. So, that's gonna wrap it up for me. Let's go ahead and get into it.Man 1: The tools you're gonna need for this installation include, 1/2-inch impact gun, a ratchet, electric or regular, 8-millimeter, 10-imillimeter, 16-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 19-millimeter, and 21-millimeter sockets, a 4-millimeter and 5-millimeter hex head sockets, T40 Torx socket, a 10-millimeter wrench, a trim removal tool, a pop clip removal tool, diagonal cutters, wire strippers, and T-taps and spades. How's it going, everyone? Today we have a rear bumper we're gonna install on our JL Wrangler. Now, we did previously get the uninstall footage. It is on a different Jeep Wrangler, but it is a JL 4-door model, so the process will be exactly the same. Once we show you that, I'll be back to walk you through the install step by step.Man 2: So, the first thing we're gonna do, we're gonna start on the end. We have these little plastic splash guards we need to take off. There's gonna be three screws total. I'm gonna do this outer one first, and you'll need an 8-millimeter socket to get that screw out. So, then you're gonna have two on the inside right here, same thing, 8-millimer socket. We'll pull this out and we can get this cover off.So, next, we're gonna take off this bracket that was underneath of that plastic section. You're gonna have four bolts total. You're gonna have two going into the bumper right here and you're gonna have two on the other end that go into the frame. We're gonna start with these two right here. I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter socket to get those out. So, we're gonna go on the other side and get these bolts out of the frame section. Once you get that last bolt ready to come out, you wanna put a hand on this bracket because it's ready to come off.So then we're gonna hop on over to the other side and do that same exact thing. So, we're gonna stay on that same side. Next thing we have to do, we have to get our tow hook off. So, we have two bolts on the side and we have one bolt down here. This bottom one's gonna be a 21-millimeter. And these two side ones, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket. Let's start with this bottom one first and get that out. And while we're over here, we're gonna unplug our license plate light as well. So, that's gonna be this little plug right here. You can pull that off of here.And on this front side, we're gonna have this little tab that we need to press in. So, you have this gray locking tab we'll need to press up. Once you get that up, I'm gonna press down on that gray tab once it's out and up, and that's gonna allow us to unplug them. So, we're gonna go over to the other side. Now, as you see, we don't have a tow hook here, so we don't need to take out this bottom bolt. However, we do need to take out these two side bolts, so we're gonna use that same 19-millimeter to get those out.So, then we're gonna move to the middle. Right in the middle in front of the muffler right here on this frame section, you're gonna have these two bolts. We need to get those out as well. These are gonna be 19s just like the side of those tow hooks. So, we're gonna go ahead and thread these out. So, now that we have all of that hardware removed, we can go ahead and get our bumper off. It's relatively light, it's just made of plastic, so you can probably do it yourself. I am gonna open the tailgate just to give me a little more room, and get our spare tire away from our bumper.Man 1: With the factory bumper removed, we're actually gonna start right here on our workbench because there is one thing we have to take off of here in order to transfer it over to our new bumper, and that is the tag light harness here. So, we're gonna use our trim removal tool and remove the several Christmas tree clips that are here and get this out and then we can hook it onto our new bumper.All right. So, keep this safe because we're gonna reuse it. Now we can get our bumper off the table and get our aftermarket bumper up here for the preparation. Now we have our aftermarket bumper up on our workbench. And we're gonna start by filling in the holes for our reverse sensors. Now, if you have reverse sensors in your bumper at this point, you'd want to take those out to transfer them over along with the wiring harnesses associated with them, but ours did not have those.So, instead, we're gonna take from the kit these plugs just to fill in the holes just to make it look aesthetically pleasing. So, if you don't have the sensors either, then this is what you'll be doing. We're just gonna do that for all four of the holes here for the reverse sensors. All right. Now we can move on to installing the lights that come with this kit. All right. To install our lights here, we're gonna need the hardware that comes included with it. And what we're gonna do is put our light in from the front here. Then we're gonna put bolt through each hole. And then on the back, we're gonna put our locking washers on and then tighten down with our nut. And we need 5-millimeter hex head socket for the bolts and a 10-millimeter wrench for the nut.So, I'm putting a locking washer and nut on at the same time. All right. Now that we have them on all hand-tight, go ahead and grab our 10-millimeter wrench and our 5-millimeter hex head socket to tighten the rest of the way down. All right. That's the install process for this light. And for the other side, we're gonna repeat the same steps. All right. At this point, we're gonna go ahead and mount up our license plate bracket here. So, the hardware that comes included with the kit, we're gonna need two of these button head bolts along with two flat washers and two of the nuts.And we also need our 4-millimeter hex head socket and our 10-millimeter wrench. So, we're gonna put our bracket up on top, put our bolts through actually with the flat washer on the bolt. So, put those two through and then put the nut on the bottom. So, now I'm just threading the nut onto the bottom with the bolt here. I'm gonna put it hand-tight so I can get the other one through, and then we'll go ahead and tighten it down the rest of the way.All right. Next, we're gonna be installing the tag lights, and we're gonna need our factory harness for that so that we can splice into it. All right. Now we're gonna continue on by installing our lights here. So, the first thing we have to do is take the hardware all the way off of the wires here so that we can route it all through the holes up at the top of our bracket. And then once they're through, we're gonna put our hardware back on and tighten it down. When we go back together, we're gonna put the flat washer on first and then the nut.All right. Now, before we tighten these the rest of the way down with our 10-millimeter wrench, we're just gonna eyeball the lights at the bottom here. Just make sure they're kind of pointed towards the middle here because these will be the lights for our license plate. All right. Next, we're gonna come to the backside here and I'll show you how to wire these up to the factory harness that operates the factory tag lights. All right. To wire these up, the first thing we're gonna do is just separate both the light wires. So, both lights wire, we're just gonna pull 'em apart a little bit because what we're gonna do is we're gonna actually splice these together so that we just have essentially one positive and one negative. So, we're gonna strip the ends of the wires and twist them together.All right. Now let's do the same thing for the ground wires. All right. Now, the way we are tapping into our factory harness here is we're gonna be using T-taps and spades. So, we're gonna crimp our spades onto these ends and then tap into these wires. Now, you can wire 'em up any way you'd like. You can tap straight in or splice straight in and solder. But this is the way we're gonna go. So, you might wanna get yourself a set of these because it is a pretty simple way to do it.Now, do have to call out that both of our wires here are the same color. We have white with blue stripe. All right. So, we're gonna crimp on our T-taps, one to each wire, one going to the positive, one going to the negative. Now, if you take a look at our wires, they both are the same white with blue stripes. I took the liberty of testing them myself. And looking at 'em from this angle with the connector clip here at the top, the right one is positive and the left one is negative.Now, if yours look this way like ours do, you know, if they're both white with blue stripes, that could be the case. It might be a good idea for you to test them yourself, or you could have wires where one is black, and 99% of the time, that is the ground. All right. So, I'm gonna put my T-taps on here, and I'm just gonna put 'em into...if you're using T-taps, just put 'em right into that slot there. And then flip the other side over. And to lock that in place, we're gonna use our needle nose pliers.So, you don't really get an audible click from that, but you can kind of feel it lock into place. So, we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. I'm just gonna peel this back just a little bit so I can offset the connectors, the T-taps. Here we go. Got a little click from that one. All right. Next, let's put our spades onto our wires and crimp these down. So, my wire's poking through there. So, what you wanna do if that happens is just pull it back a little bit. I'm gonna go ahead and hit this one twice from the get-go.Okay. Just give it a little tug test. All right. Good to go. Now, once we get this up on the vehicle, we're gonna hook this together and plug this into our factory harness. Now that we're done with the preparation work on the bumper, we can now get ready to install it onto our Jeep. First thing we have to do is put this bracket in the frame right here with the nuts on the bottom side of it. So, just simply slide this in and then make sure that the welded nuts line up with the holes on the bottom of the frame.We're ready to mount the bumper up now. So, you wanna grab the bolts out of the kit that we have and you want eight of these each with a locking washer and a flat washer. And this bumper is pretty heavy, so you wanna grab a friend so that he can help you lift it up and line up the holes and then start putting in the bolts by hand.Good. All right. Thank you, Mark. Now, we'll put the other four bolts in, and we're gonna get it up in the air to give you a better look, and we'll tighten them down with our 21-millimeter socket. All right. So, we're underneath of our bumper here on the driver's side of our Jeep. And I just wanted to point out these are the two bolts that we put in by hand, and we did that on either side. So, right now, we have four bolts in holding this up, and we're gonna put the other four in on the bottom of our bumper.All right. Now we're on the passenger side. And again, just pointing out, the other two bolts here that Mark and I put in. And I'm gonna put the last two bolts in and then tighten them all down with my 21-millimeter socket. So, these two bolts here are the ones that are going into those welded nuts on the bracket that we put in. So, just make sure that's lined up, and they should go in pretty smoothly. Now, I'm kind of pre-lining this up too, so I'm just putting some pressure up and then towards the front of the Jeep just to keep it high and tight.All right. Now, while we're here, we're gonna go ahead and connect our tag lights. So, grab the factory harness that we removed earlier. And what I'm gonna do is plug it up here. And it goes in one way. So, once you get that click, you know it's good. Now I'm gonna just wind everything up and zip-tie it together and then I'll plug in my T-taps to the spades. All right. Now, if you recall, on our wiring harness, yours might be different, but in ours, looking at the plug this direction, the right one is the positive.All right. So, let's tuck this away for now, and we can move on to our main harness for our reverse lights. We're ready to start connecting and routing our main wiring harness for our rear lights here. So, as you can see, we have a whole bunch of wire. It comes in a nice bundle when you get it, but I have unwrapped it just to make it a little bit easier to route it down the frame. So, what we're gonna do is get these two connectors, plug 'em into both of our lights, and then we're gonna start routing it up over this frame, down along the driver's side frame rail until we reach the engine bay.So, I'd make this a little bit easier. Instead of feeding all the wire up over the frame here, I'm gonna connect them behind the frame to begin. And I'm gonna grab the end of the wire, which actually has the relaying connector on it. I'm gonna start routing this back, or, well, forward towards the engine bay. So, one thing I do wanna mention is just be mindful of everything up here that's hot, sharp, could be moving, and make sure that when you are done routing it, that it's up and out of the way of, say like this exhaust here, which I'll do, you know, before we wrap this up.All right. So, I'm actually gonna take it behind the frame bolts here. So, instead of pulling it through there, you could leave it behind. Again, completely up to you. All right. And I'm just gonna continue along the top like so. All right. So, I found another spot where you can zip-tie. So, I'm just gonna take my wires here and pull 'em tight, put a zip tie through the body here, and then fasten 'em up against the body. All right. And now we're at the front of the frame. So, at this point, we're gonna go ahead and route 'em up through the fender well and then up into the engine bay.Now, once you reach the front of your frame rail, you'll come to the fender here. And you'll probably have a fender liner. Ours is already removed. So, what you're gonna have to do is just kind of maybe take out a couple of push clips here just so you can lift up the fender liner a little bit, and then you'll be able to access the engine bay directly from there. So, that's what we're gonna do now, is just run all the wire up into the engine bay, and then we'll grab it from the top. When you do get back here, just make sure you're routing it, you know, on the proper side of all these lines and everything that's in here.All right. That should be good for now. So, what we're gonna do is drop the jeep down, pop open the hood, and grab the rest from the top. All right. Again, just be mindful of all the lines and hoses as you're pulling this up through the engine bay. There is a bunch of stuff to get caught on. There we go. All right. Now that I got it free, I'm actually gonna go under this coolant hose as well. And I'm gonna start routing this along the top of the engine bay here and then over to the battery.All right. I'm gonna have to unravel our spaghetti here a bit, but while I'm here, it does look like there's a couple of more places to zip-tie, one being on that bracket. Let me see if that's good. So, we can zip-tie to this bracket right here and then also on that plastic trim piece over there. So, I'm gonna grab a couple of zip ties, do that, and then we'll connect to the battery. All right. Now that we've reached the battery, we're gonna go ahead and connect our wires, our red to positive, black to negative, starting with the positive.So, if we pull up the protective sleeve here, we reveal some terminals. And I wanna use this one right here since it's empty. And to get that nut off, I'm using my 12-millimeter socket. Let's go ahead and tighten that back down. And now we can connect our negative. And I'm gonna use this terminal spot right here. And to remove that nut, I'm gonna use my 10-millimeter socket.All right. At this point, we could test the lights if you want to. It's not a bad idea to do that. Once you know that your lights are good to go at this point, we can go ahead and route our wires back over to the driver's side so that we can route our switch through the firewall and mount that in the cabin. Now, as you're routing your wires back over towards the driver's side in order to get your switch through the firewall, it's a good idea to find a good spot to mount your relay and secure your fuse somewhere. Now, you can drill in somewhere around here. We're not gonna do that for the purposes of this video, but what I'm gonna do is just kinda lay it along here along with the fuse and zip-tie it in place just to keep it temporarily secure.Now, again, for you at home, probably wanna find a more permanent solution. So, if you have a self-tapping screw, that will work. And typically, you could mount it here or even on the battery box. All right. Now that we're back over to the driver's side of our jeep, at this point, you could go through the firewall as we spoke about before, but there is another way that's just as safe that we can do. So, I'm actually gonna show you that now. We're gonna be routing this way. So, it involves taking this panel off here, and that will give us access to the cabin. So, to do this, you're gonna need a pop removal tool such as this and also your T40 socket.All right. So, I'm actually gonna start by removing my switch here. So, this connector is just a push tab style to release. And once you separate it, take your switch and just put this somewhere safe for now. I'm gonna go ahead and put it in the cabin. Now we can take our wire. And if you notice here on this foam trim piece here, there's a little slit in it where we can run the wire. So, we're gonna go through that first. And again, just kind of put this out of the way, somewhere safe for now. The next step we're gonna do is remove this panel right here using our T40 socket.So, there's four bolts holding this panel in place. There's two at the bottom, and there's two at the top. These two at the top are longer, so just keep track of those, make sure that they go back in their appropriate places. So, as you can see, these are elongated compared to the other ones. All right. With all four bolts out, this now just slides directly out. All right. So, we're gonna be routing our wire up through here. And then when we open up the door, there is a plastic trim panel right here that we're gonna remove. So, I'm gonna go inside the cabin to do that right now.All right. So, from inside our Wrangler and with the door opened up in the door jam here, this is the trim piece we're gonna remove. So, there's two Christmas tree clips that we have to take out using our pop clip removal tool. And then once they're out, we're just gonna move this aside. We're not gonna take it all the way out. We're gonna move this aside so that we can route our wires through. All right. So, there's just a little bit of foam backing that's kind of adhesive. So, if you just pry on it a little bit, it keeps it intact.And like I said, we don't have to remove this, just get it to the side like that. And then at this point, we're actually gonna take our switch end here and we're gonna route it back towards the engine bay. So, you just have to kind of route it underneath of the windshield frame here. And this is nice because the wire is in between this rubber piece here and there's actually some more foam here, so it does keep it protected. All right. Once you have... You can kind of measure the length out here as well.So, we're gonna be mounting our switch right here, right above our other light switch. You can mount it wherever you'd like, but once you have the location, you can go ahead and put this trim back. All right. Now I'm gonna go back into behind the panel that we removed and just tie up all the extra slack and connect our wires together. All right. We're back to where we removed this panel. So, at this point, we can connect the wires together. Like I said, just gather up all the slack. And I'm gonna leave it right here behind the panel. I think it's a good spot for it, it should keep it nice and safe.All right. Now that our wires are secure, we can go ahead and put our panel back in place as well. All right. Remember that the longer bolts go on top. And we're using our T40 socket to tighten these down. One note before I do tighten these down, this panel here is plastic. Again, so just don't go too tight, just give it a nice snug once it is seated against the panel. All right. So, once you've found a good spot to mount your switch, let's go ahead, flip it over, and you'll see that it's double-sided tape on the back of it.So, all we have to do is remove the protective backing and stick it in place. Just hold it there for like 10 to 15 seconds, make sure it sticks nicely, and you're good to go. All right. Last couple of things we have to do here, one being we're gonna zip-tie our tag light wires here to the frame like so. So, go ahead, grab a couple of zip ties and your diagonal cutters. Try to keep this wire behind there. Good luck. All right. Let's trim off the ends.And then also I wanted to point out, make sure you don't forget to put your license plate up. And the kit does come supplied with hardware so that you can mount your plate. And it's the same as the hardware for mounting the bracket. So, 4-millimeter hex, either an Allen key or your socket, and a 10-millimeter wrench for the nut.And then, lastly, we're gonna go ahead and mount up our D-rings on our bumper brackets. Okay. For our D-rings here, let's just take out the bolt. You're gonna slide it over the bracket here, put the bolt back through, and screw it into place. All right. And we're gonna do the same thing for the other side.Merideth: So, that is a wrap on my review and the install of the Barricade Trail Runner Rear Bumper with the LED Trail Lights, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. For more videos and products just like this, remember to always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Two High-Powered, 3-inch LED Cube Fog Lights Included
Heavy Duty Steel Plate Construction
Textured Black Powder-Coated Finish
Compatible with Factory Back-Up Sensors
Direct Bolt-On Installation
Fits 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL Models
Description
Trail Runner Styling. If your JL Wrangler sees use both on the street and out on the trails, you may want to replace that inferior stock rear bumper with one that can handle the extra abuse. This Barricade Trail Runner Rear Bumper with LED Trail Lights will provide excellent protection from all kinds of off-road hazards while giving your JL rugged styling. Featuring two high strength D-Ring mounts with 9,500 pound rated D-Rings and integrated high powered LED lighting, this Trail Runner Bumper is perfect for those who don't shy away from adventure.
Integrated LED Lights. This Rear Bumper includes two 3-inch square LED Fog Lights. These Fog Lights are equipped with high powered LEDs and are designed to provide intense 6000 K light. Each light is rated IP67 providing reliable waterproof performance, thanks to a tough aluminum housing sealed with a polycarbonate lens.
Heavy Duty Construction. Barricade Off-Road manufactures their Trail Runner Rear Bumper to precise specifications from heavy duty, steel plating and mandrel bent tubing for superior strength and rigidity. Barricade then completes their Bumpers in a two stage finish using epoxy pre-coating and high-grade textured black powder coating for long lasting durability.
Installation. This product is easy to bolt on and should take about 2 hours.
Application. This Barricade Trail Runner Rear Bumper with LED Trail Lights fits 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL models.
Freight Notes. Freight items can only be shipped within the continental 48 states, no expedited methods. What is freight shipping? Your Answers are Right Here.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
