Review & Install Video
Hey, guys. So, today I'm here with the Barricade Cruiser HD front bumper, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. So, if you're in search of a functional as well as very sleek-looking front bumper, this option by Barricade is gonna be a really good one to take a look at.So, the big thing about this front bumper is the fact that it mimics the factory Rubicon front bumper, giving it a really sleek look, and also giving you all of that function and heavy duty ability that you would need out of an aftermarket front bumper.So, this is going to have really sleek body lines and match really well with the front end of the JL, but it's also gonna incorporate a lot of function into the design, and it's also gonna be modular so you can set this up however you like. So, this is gonna come with light mounting options up on top of this bull bar, which is removable. And not to mention, you're also getting tow hooks on either side, which is gonna help you out in any sticky situation while you're out on the trail, perfect for recovery.Now, this package is also going to include LED fog lights, which is perfect for anybody who's looking to upgrade from their halogen fog lights, or is just looking to match with any other LED lighting that they have mounted up to the JL already.So, this is gonna be very affordable for a full width front bumper or a standard with front bumper, especially with the sleek look, at roughly $450. Now, like I said, this is gonna mimic the Mopar front bumper, which is a lot more expensive. It may come with a couple extra bells and whistles, but if you're really trying to get that look and that factory sleekness as well as all of that extra function, this is gonna be a really good option to take a look at.So, in comparison to some other heavy duty aftermarket full width front bumpers that we have on the page, this is gonna be very sleek and not as boxy. So, this isn't going to give a very aggressive and off-road look, but it's gonna complement the front end of your JL very well with that modern and upgraded book, and still have that heavy duty aspect to it. So, if you're looking for something that's very sleek, very functional, as well as pretty affordable for a full width front bumper, this is gonna be a really good choice.Now, install is gonna be a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It's not that hard to get the thing installed, you're probably gonna need about two hours worth of time with some pretty basic hand tools. So, speaking of that install, let's jump to that now.The tools that I used for my install were an impact wrench, a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a 16-millimeter and 10-millimeter open-ended wrench, a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a Phillips-head screwdriver, a 3-inch extension, 18-millimeter, 16-millimeter, 8-millimeter, and 7-millimeter deep socket, an 18-millimeter, 16-millimeter, and 13-millimeter shallow socket, a flat-head screwdriver, and a trim removal tool.So, our first step to taking off our front bumper is to take off our upper splash shield. So, you will need a flat-head screwdriver or a trim removal tool to remove all the clips that are holding it in.So, there's a series of clips on the front of the splash guard, as well as two on the frame on either side. You can use a flat-head screwdriver to go ahead and remove them. However, if they're being a little bit fussy, like this one is, you can use a trim removal tool. All right. So, after all those are off, we can fold it back and fully remove it.So, our next step is to remove the pop clips that are holding in the front of our lower splash shield. I'm gonna use a trim removal tool to remove all eight of them, and then we're gonna remove the bolts on the back of the splash shield so we can fully remove it.So, now we can go ahead and remove the 8-millimeter bolts that are holding in the back of the splash shield, you're gonna have one on either side. We have a little bit of damage to our lower splash guard, so we only have one holding it in right now. So, you're gonna take an 8-millimeter socket and remove that screw. After those are removed, we can fully remove our splash guard.So, now we can remove our lower skid plate that's behind our splash shield. I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter socket to remove both of those bolts. So, after those two bolts are removed, what we can do is push up on the splash guard to unhook the tabs on either side.So, what we can do next is remove the hardware on the eight studs on either side of both of our frame horn. So, I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and my impact wrench to remove that hardware. So, we can repeat that process on the other six studs. So, the top stud on the inside may be a little bit difficult to reach with an impact, so I'm gonna use a hand ratchet as well as a 3-inch extension to take that hardware off.So, in order to take the bumper off, the last thing that we have to do is disconnect our main fog light wiring harness. We just have to depress on this clip down here, and pull back, and now we're ready to remove our bumper.So, after all of our hardware is off and everything is diconnected, we can grab the bumper and completely remove it.So, before we go ahead and install and put together our new Barricade front bumper, I wanna tell you guys a little bit more about it, and what benefits that you're gonna see out of this new setup in comparison to your factory setup.So, right off the bat, you can tell that this is roughly the same size, this is gonna be a standard width, or a full width front bumper, and it is going to give you similar protection to the front. However, this is gonna be a lot more heavy duty and hold up to a lot more abuse, considering that this is made of a heavy duty steel material, steel plating, as well as steel tubing up top. Now, that's gonna be able to take a lot more abuse off-road, like I said before, in comparison to the factory plastic. So, your factory front bumper is made of, basically, a plastic material, and you get a standard steel crash bar in the back. But if you hit this on the trail, you are going to do a bit of damage in comparison to this, which will be able to hold its own. This is also gonna have a textured 2-stage black powder coat finish to protect the steel underneath from any rust or corrosion, and also helping achieve a more aggressive and off-road look. And this is also gonna come with a number of different features on it that are gonna add to utility as well as function.So, starting off with that utility and function, you have a bull bar up on top that's gonna give you some grille protection. You also have tabs on either side, which is going to offer an accessory mounting point, or an auxiliary light mounting point. You also have a winch plate that's gonna be a little bit recessed, and it is removable, so you can keep it on or you can remove it if you're not looking to run a winch, and it's capable of holding a winch with a pulling capacity up to 12,000 pounds.Now, something that's a little bit different than a lot of aftermarket front bumpers, is the fact that this is going to carry over the factory tow hooks. Now, as you can tell, we're not actually swapping them over, they are welded into the bumper, and that's gonna provide a recovery point for the front of this bumper.The last thing that I do really like about this is that this offers the option to swap over your factory fog lights, giving you a little bit of extra light out of the front end of your Wrangler. And it's gonna mimic, more or less, that factory style, which is gonna give you a very sleek look out on the front end of your Wrangler, but also provide those extra benefits out of this front bumper. So, enough about these two side-by-side, let's go ahead and put our new one together.So, before we put our new front bumper together, what we're gonna do is remove our fog lights from our factory front bumper. Now, you're gonna need a 7-millimeter socket, a trim removal tool, and also a flat-head screwdriver in order to do this. We're gonna take off our end caps first, and then we'll be able to take the front bumper apart so we can take out our fog lights.So, just like the rest of our trim pieces on our bumper, this is held in by the same clips. I'm gonna take a flat-head screwdriver and remove them. You can also use a trim removal tool. Again, if they're being fussy, a trim removal tool is a little bit easier, looks like this one is, and then you can just move down the line.So, after those clips are out, what we can do is take this off, and then I'll expose our fog light. We can depress that clip, pull back on that plug, get that out of the way, and then we can fully remove our fog light. There's gonna be four bolts holding it in, I'm gonna use a 7-millimeter socket. And after those are removed, what we can do is just pull back on the light, and then put this aside. Then we can repeat that process on the other side.So, now that we have our fog lights out, what we need to do is remove our fog light wiring harness, because we do have to swap that over to our new bumper as well. So, how we're gonna do that is remove the two pieces that are holding the full bumper together. So, you have a plastic bumper cover, and then you have the backside, which is going to hold the crash bar as well as a couple of other things. So, the wiring harness is in between there. So, what I'm gonna do is take off all of the 7-millimeter screws around the perimeter of the bumper, and then we'll be able to separate the two and unhook our wiring harness. I'm gonna take a 7-millimeter socket, just start removing those screws.So, after we have all of our hardware removed, what we can do is flip the bumper over, pull up on our plastic cover, and we're gonna have to unhook it from our tow hooks. What you can do is just put your thumb on the top of the bumper and push onto the tow hook, and it'll come right off, and then we can do the same thing for the other hook. And then we can take this cover off, put that aside, and it will expose the wiring harness on the back.So, this is also held in by clips. So, what I'm gonna do is just pull up on the trim removal tool and just pry all of those off. Now, after they're removed from the back, what we need to do is flip this over again, and we'll have a couple of more on either side that are holding it to the crash bar side. So, once the driver side one's unhooked, we can feed that through. Move over to the passenger side where the main part of the harnesses is, do the same thing, you can pass this through. And now our harness is free, and we can swap it over to our new front bumper.So, before we can actually mount up our front bumper, what we have to do is put it together. So, we need to install our new LED fog lights as well as our bull bar up on top here because they are removable. Sso, you will need a 13-millimeter socket, a 10-millimeter socket, and 10-millimeter wrench, as well as a Phillips-head screwdriver.So, what we're gonna do first is attach our bracket to our fog light. So, this is going to wrap around the side like this, and you're also gonna have two Phillips-head screws that we're gonna thread into this side of our new LED fog light. I'm just gonna take a Phillips-head screwdriver, snug them up. Now, they don't have to be incredibly tight, because we wanna be able to adjust them. Do the same thing for the other side of the L-bracket, or U-bracket should I say. And they are gonna be adjustable, as you can tell here, there's a slot. So, you can adjust them up and down, forward and back, left and right.So, what we can do next is take our hardware to mount it up to our front bumper, slide that on through. So, once that's through, we can secure down a flange nut on the other side. Make sure that that is where we want it.So, once that's in the place that we want it, what we can do is tighten that up with a 10-millimeter wrench. And if you can fit a 10-millimeter socket in here, you can use that. I'm just gonna use a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench, just because it's a little bit more low profile.Now, while we're over here, what we can do is also attach this side of our bull bar, it's going to have two mounting holes on the underside of the bumper. I'm gonna use the provided hardware, which is bolt, flat washer, and lock washer to thread that in. Now, I also found it a little bit easier if you elevate the bumper. I have something supporting it on the back just because the bull bar sticks out a little bit further. All right. So, once both sides are threaded up for the bull bar, what we can do is tighten those down with a 13-millimeter socket.So, what we can do next is mount up our winch plate. Now, this is actually gonna mount directly to our frame horns, which is going to make this incredibly strong and able to hold that very capable winch. So, what I'm gonna do first is line this up with the front of the frame horn, and we have to attach a couple of different brackets. But in the meantime, to have this in place while we do that, I'm going to put our hardware for our bumper through our frame horns to hold it there and hold it still while we're attaching our other brackets. So, this doesn't really have to be the correct hardware, we're just putting this there so it doesn't fall. Thread the bolt far enough on where it's secure.So, what we're gonna do first is start up top. So, we have to take off our frame's secondary bracket here. I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter socket as well as my impact wrench to remove that. And you wanna make sure that you're keeping this bolt, because we will use that in just a minute. But we can take this secondary bracket off, and we'll be replacing it with another secondary bracket. This part's gonna butt up against the actual frame horn, this part is gonna sit in the factory location, and then these bottom two mounting locations, or bottom two mounting holes are gonna go through the winch plate. So, let's go ahead and put that factory bolt back in. We're not gonna tighten anything up just yet. Then we can take our loose bolt, two flat washers, a lock washer, and a nut, line up our winch plate with the secondary bracket, and secure that down on the other side. Now, again, we don't wanna tighten anything down just yet, we're gonna get the other side secured as well. But we're gonna snug it up to make sure that it lines up okay. Same thing for that back mounting hole, then we can repeat that on the other side.So, now that we've installed our top secondary mounting brackets, what we can do is move to our lower ones, which is gonna be right underneath where our secondary top ones are.So, what we can do is take our welded nut plate, we are on the driver side, and they are gonna be side-specific. We're gonna put that through our frame pocket right here, and then we can take our 18-millimeter bolt, the flat wash and the lock washer, and thread that through the hole in the frame, and align everything up. And this is just gonna act as another mounting point, and add to the structural integrity of the winch plate. So, again, before we tighten anything down, we're gonna do the same thing on the other side, and then we can start to tighten everything down, starting with these.So, what we can do is start to tighten down our brackets and bolts. So, I'm gonna start with the bolts that we just put in on the bottom using an 18-millimeter socket, and I'm also using a 3-inch extension just to give myself a little bit of room. Now, you also wanna make sure that everything's lining up correctly. If you have to snug up some spots and loosen up some other spots, I would recommend to do that, but everything seems to be lining up well for us. So, we're going to continue to tighten everything down. So, then you can tighten down the other side, and we can move up to our top bracket.So, making sure that these three holes are lining up, what I'm gonna do is start by tightening down the secondary bracket bolts on the bottom where it's connecting to the winch plate. I'm using a 16-millimeter wrench and a 16-millimeter socket, and also that 3-inch extension to give myself a little bit of room. Once those are tightened up, we can tighten up the side using that same 16-millimeter socket. Then we can do the same thing on the other side, and then we can mount up our front bumper.So, after everything is tightened down on our winch plate, what we can do is install our front bumper, making sure that those studs are fitting through our brackets. Then we can place it there for a second, grab our hardware, and thread everything on.So, what we can do now is install our hardware. So, you're gonna attach your flat washers, lock washers, and then you're gonna have a provided nut. All right. And then we can do the same thing on the other side.So, now, on the outside of the frame horn, we are gonna have bolts. So, you're gonna have your provided 16-millimeter bolt, flat washer, and lock washer, and were going to line that up with the welded nut inside of our bumper, and thread that through our frame. Now, we're gonna snug these up. I don't wanna tighten them down just yet because we wanna get the other side installed. If you do tighten them up right now, it may be a little bit difficult to get the other side to line up. So, it's nice to get everything threaded in and in place, and then you can go back. All right. So, now we can do the other side. So, now that those are a threaded in, we can take our 16-millimeter socket and tighten those up, as well as the inside ones.So, after you've finished tightening down all four bolts on the outer side of your frame horns, we can move to the inside bolts. So, I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter deep socket for this top one, and a 16-millimeter open-ended wrench for the bottom one.So, this one down at the bottom is a little bit harder to access, so I'm gonna use an open-ended 16-millimeter wrench. So, after that's all tightened up, what we can do is repeat that process on the other side, and then move on to our fog light wiring harness.So, what we can do now is wire up our fog light. So, we have our factory harness, our new harness, and then we have an adapter cable that's specific to the JL that comes in the kit that's going to connect the two harnesses, and this is gonna pull power and send it through our new harness. So, you have two ends on here that are gonna plug into the back of our new LED fog lights. That adapter harness is gonna connect to our factory harness, and then we can plug this into our factory wiring harness that is wired into our Wrangler already that we disconnected before. So, what I'm gonna do is take our new harness, and plug the longer side into our driver side, and then we can move over to our passenger side and plug everything together.So, we're gonna take the longer wire that's fed off of this main harness, and plug that into our driver side fog light. You are gonna hear a click, and then we can put that back down, run this, kind of, behind the winch plate here, plug this other side into our other fog light, and then we can grab our adapter cable. You're gonna get two in the kit. The one with the boxed end is gonna be specific to the JL, we can plug the other side into our main harness. Then we can grab our factory harness. And this adapter cable is gonna plug into either one of your fog lights because they're both connected to this main harness. So, I'm just gonna grab the one that's longest to the "M", plug that in, and then what we can do is plug in the main cable that's gonna pull that power. Now, there is going to be an excess of wires. What I would recommend to do is grab some zip ties, tie this up so it's out of the way. And you're even gonna have some 3M tape on the back of the solenoid here so you can stick that wherever you'd like. And you even have two mounting locations on the other side, so you can take some self-tapping screws and mount that up. But now, we're gonna tuck up the wiring, and then you'll be all set to go.So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install, make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.