Review & Install Video
The Teraflex Falcon Nexus EF 2.1 Stabilizer for an Inch and 3/8-Diameter Stock Tie Rod is for those of you that have a 2007 to 2018 JK, that are looking for an incredibly high-quality steering stabilizer to replace the factory one that's going to also move the mounting location of the stabilizer, so it's not going to be as beat up on the trail quite as easily. This is going to be an easy one out of three wrenches for the installation and I'm gonna show you how to do it in just a second.
So when we're talking about steering stabilizers or more accurately steering dampeners, it's really important to know what they do, what they are really all about and what they're not really going to help with. And a steering stabilizer is there so that when you're driving down the road, on-road or off-road and you have a big tire on your Jeep and you hit a bump, some of that shock that would otherwise be transferred from the tire through the steering linkage up into the steering wheel gets absorbed by the steering dampener, and that's really all it's about.
If you have a properly set up steering system, a steering stabilizer is a luxury and not a necessity. So if you have a wobble, if you have death wobble, if you have bump steer, any of those other really bad steering characteristics, there are ways to identify what is causing those problems and there are ways to fix them and throwing a new fancy, expensive steering stabilizer at it is not the right move. All you're going to do is maybe cover up one of those problems for a little while until you blow out your brand new steering stabilizer and you still have that same issue. So again, this is not a bandaid for any sort of bad wobble or bad steering characteristic. If you have those issues fix them first. But if you have a bent, broken or leaking steering stabilizer and you're looking to not just replace but upgrade, this is going to be a really nice option for you.
This is going to be a nice big body steering stabilizer. And the larger body means it's going to be able to dampen a lot of forces, it's going to be adjustable as far as where it clamps onto the tie rod here, it doesn't use the factory clamp, so it's gonna be much beefier, this billet aluminum one here. It's going to replace your factory tie rod bolt on the axle side over here, so it's going to have a nice strong mounting point. And again that means it can be up on top of the tie rod instead of hanging down where the factory one did where it can more easily be damaged on the trail. So build quality is much higher, it is going to be able to dampen a lot of shock, so it's going to be very good at being a steering stabilizer. So a very well-built piece here.
Now if you do some off-roading, some higher speed off-roading, if you hit the washboards a lot, if you're out there and you're really working the steering wheel at higher speed, having a steering stabilizer like this one is something you're actually going to notice when you're driving. But if you do more of low speed rock crawling or more driving on the street, you're probably not going to notice the additional damping that this can handle versus a factory steering stabilizer.
Now for the quality that you're getting from this piece and for the build quality for all the features that are built into it, you are certainly going to pay significantly more than you would for a factory style steering stabilizer. Those can be anywhere from $50, $75 something like this. This one here is going to be right around $260 for your Falcon steering stabilizer. So again, if you do some of that higher speed off-roading, you're interested in something that's going to be able to dampen like this thing can and you want this quality, this is gonna be a great choice for you. But again, if you're just looking to replace a factory steering stabilizer, an OEM one is going to be more than enough for what the vast majority of us use our Jeeps for.
So like I said before, this is going to be a pretty easy one out of three inches for the install. Let me show you how to do it. For this installation we used a 17-millimeter, 18-millimeter and 21-millimeter socket along with a 5-millimeter Allen head socket and a couple of extensions. We drove those with a three-eighths electric impact or a half-inch pneumatic impact. We also needed a 22-millimeter wrench, an adjustable wrench and depending on how you decided to get your track bar lined up, you'll need a large pry bar and or a ratchet strap.
The first step in this easy one out of three wrench installation is, of course, the uninstallation. We have to remove our factory steering stabilizer and we're gonna do that by first removing the bolt on the clamp up here on the tie rod and then the bolt on the axle side of the mount as well. With our clamp loosened up, we'll now remove the nut on the steering stabilizer itself to get it disconnected from the clamp.
At this point when you're doing the installation you're going to use a pry bar to pry this clamp apart and remove it from the Jeep. If you go all the way over onto the passenger side, your tie rod gets a little bit narrower there, so it will be a little bit easier to get this popped off because we're gonna be going back to a stock steering stabilizer after we show you how to get this Falcon one installed, we're just gonna slide our clamp out of the way. Now we'll remove the axle side mount for the steering stabilizer with an 18-millimeter wrench to get the stabilizer completely removed from the Jeep.
So as you can see, when you have the factory stabilizer next to the Falcon stabilizer on the table, the differences are pretty apparent. So the first thing I want to point out is the diameter of the body of the steering stabilizer. So here on the factory one, pretty small, on the Falcon one, much larger. And what that means is that you can have a larger piston inside of the stabilizer which means it can do more damping. So overall this just has the capability to do more work than this one does.
This has a plastic shield over top of the piston shaft but if you could see it, you would know that this one is also a little bit thicker and that is going to help keep this thing from bending. And also just overall build quality is going to be much higher on the steering stabilizer than on that factory one. As you can see over here, because this end actually replaces the axle side track bar bolt, you have essentially a tie rod end with a long hardened bolt built right into it, so that's all one piece. Slightly different design where this uses a bolt with a flag nut on the backside of it. And this has an integrated clamp on the stabilizer itself, so you're not going to be using factory clamp that would normally hold this side of your factory stabilizer onto the tie rod, it's gonna clamp right onto the tie rod. And because of the way that this mounts to the axle side track bar bolt and onto the tie rod, it's swings the whole stabilizer up and out of the way of any sort of danger when you're off-road. You're not going to hit it on rocks as easily as you would with that factory stabilizer that normally hangs pretty much parallel if not a little bit lower than the factory tie rod. So some pretty big differences that you can see visually right off the bat looking at these two stabilizers side by side.
So the next step in the installation is removing this axle side track bar bolt because our new stabilizer is going to replace that completely. But before we pull that bolt out, we're going to put a couple of pole jacks underneath the axle and actually put a little bit of weight on the axle. We're going to compress those springs a little bit. And the idea there is that the axle is going to shift side to side less when we remove that bolt. We're probably still gonna get a little bit of motion and we're probably gonna have to get out a pry bar to help us line everything back up again when we're installing our new stabilizer. Now, of course, we're doing this on a lift which is making it a little bit easier for you to see and me to work on this while we're standing up. But if you're doing this on the ground, it's going to be much, much easier to get this track bar lined up again with your new steering stabilizer as the pin that holds it in place, you can have somebody just sit in the driver seat, turn the steering wheel back and forth and help you align it, so you'll be able to skip all of this if you're doing this job on the ground, but we're not, so we're gonna get our pole jacks in place. Now we'll go ahead and remove our track bar bolt.
So now that we have the factory bolt out of the track bar in the track bar bracket, we have a ratchet strap in place here that's keeping the track bar in line with that bracket. As I mentioned before, sometimes you can use a pry bar in order to do that if you are doing this installation with the vehicle in the air like we are, but again, the easiest thing to do is going to be having the vehicle on the wheels. Just have somebody in the driver seat turning the steering wheel back and forth, that's going to move the track bar back and forth from the mount making it really easy to line up.
So we have our ratchet strap nice and tight, so we have our bracket and the hole through the track bar lined up, all we need to do is take the tie rod end of our new stabilizer, slide it through and put the nut on the backside. Now we can put the nut on the back of our steering stabilizer tie rod end and get that tightened down.
The last step is going to be getting the other end of the steering stabilizer clamped onto the tie rod. So the clamp comes assembled out of the box, we're gonna remove the 5-millimeter Allen head cap screws out of the bottom of the clamp, clamp around the tie rod then we'll make sure it's adjusted properly before tightening it down.
So as you can see, we have the screws for our clamps started but they are not tight, this whole thing will slide on the tie rod very, very easily and that's because we need to figure out where we're gonna clamp this onto the tie rod, that's very important. So what we're going to do is turn the wheels all the way to the lock. In our case, we're going to do the driver side, so turn the wheel all the way to the lock on the left side and then we're going to pull the stabilizer all the way out. We're just going to push it in about an eighth of an inch, that's so when you turn the steering wheel just during the actual driving you're not actually maxing out the stabilizer, there's that little bit left, and then we'll tighten down our clamp. At that point, we'll be able to turn the wheels all the way locked to the right or to the passenger side and make sure that the stabilizer isn't going to bottom out completely when we go the other way and that's how we'll know that it is perfectly set up. Then we can tighten the two smaller Allen heads on the bottom here just to give us a little bit of extra clamping force so we know nothing is gonna slide back and forth during regular driving.
So we have the steering wheel turned all the way over to the driver side. That's the stabilizer all the way lengthened. Now we're just going to push it in about an eighth of an inch. Just that little bit is plenty, an eighth of a quarter of an inch, something like that. Again, the idea here is just to not max out the stabilizer. So we'll grab our Allen head socket again and tighten this down. Now we'll turn the wheels all the way the other way. What we're looking for is to make sure that we're not going to max out the stabilizer in the opposite direction. As you can see, we still have plenty of shaft length here, so we're good to go. We'll put a final torque on these four bolts here and then there are actually two small set screws on the bottom as well that we're gonna tighten down and then we're done with the installation.
Once you have all those bolts tightened up, we're going to remove our ratchet strap and our pole jacks, get the Jeep down on the ground and the installation is finished. So if you are looking for an incredibly high-quality steering stabilizer for your JK, I would recommend this option from Falcon and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.