(approx) a Day
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It's Joe from Extreme Terrain. In this video, we're going over the Teraflex 2-inch Falcon Sport Tow Haul Lift System fitting all '05 and newer Tacomas. Now, this is gonna be a great option for you if you're looking to pay top dollar for a high-quality adjustable suspension setup that's going to allow you to run anywhere from no lift all the way up to two and a quarter inches of lift in the front and one and a quarter inches of lift in the rear. And on top of that, it's basically gonna be able to take any abuse you could throw at it, whether you're towing, you have something heavy in the bed or just doing some plain old off-roading.Now, diving into this kit, let's talk about each component one by one, breakdown all the features on everything that's going on here, and we're gonna get these all side by side next to the factory stuff in just a minute and really point out the differences. But for now, let's talk about these front struts. Now, these are gonna be a huge upgrade over the factory stuff, 6061 aluminum body that's also a lot bigger in diameter. That's gonna help contribute to the cooling capacity as well as there's more fluid actually in the strut. Hardened steel shaft. That's gonna be great for durability, and speaking about longevity, at the bottom here, we also have some Zerk fittings, allowing you to keep those nice and lubricated if need be.Now, the real piece on these struts is gonna be this snap ring right in the middle here. This is where the lift is gonna be coming from, and you get three adjustment settings. This one up at the top here, this is going to be for no lift whatsoever. This one in the middle, which is what it's set to right out of the box, this is gonna be for a level ride height. Now, for our install, we're gonna leave that right there at level, but that might not be the case for you, especially so if you have a heavy-duty steel front bumper, maybe one with winch in it. That adds a lot of weight, and weight add sag to the front end of your truck. If that's your scenario, you'd wanna take that snap ring, move it to the bottom position. That's gonna give you the extra push up to dial out that added weight. So, a little bit of adjustability there. That's really, really nice in my opinion, not something you can really change on the fly. So you have to make that decision pre-installed, but it's really nice to have a choice.Now, speaking about upgrades, this is gonna be a monotube design. And when you're comparing that to a twin-tube, what that basically means is you have more fluid in there, which is great for cooling, but there's also a clear separation between the gas and hydraulic fluid, which is gonna help you resist cavitation. When you're really, really leaning on these things, you're compressing them and expanding them rapidly, a lot of times that fluid in the air can mix, and that's where shock wave comes from, not the case with this monotube. This is gonna take the abuse way better than a lot of other designs out there. Now, that does come at a slight cost. When comparing these to factory, they are gonna be just a tiny bit stiffer, and I wanna stress it's not like you can't daily drive on these to ride. It's just fine. However, that is gonna be the slight trade-off.Moving right along to the rear, you can see these lift blocks right here at the front. This is where our rear lift is gonna be coming from, one and a quarter inches in height in total. Those are gonna sit right in between our leaf springs and axle tube and get the truck up in the air a little bit at the rear. Now, for the rear, we also have some brand new components as well. We got brand new microcellular foam bump stops, which is a nice touch and, of course, longer U-bolts to accommodate for that extra height.Now, at this point, you're probably wondering one and a quarter inches at the rear, two and a quarter inches up at the front, what's up with that inch disparity? Now, what that's for is to dial out what's called rake. All Tacomas and trucks in general for that matter, they sit a little bit lower in the front, a little bit higher in the rear, and the purpose there is to dial out any added weight. If you have something heavy in the bed or if you're towing a heavy load, the truck would then squat in the rear a little bit and sit level. If you're not doing either of those two things often, it's more of a looks thing. This is definitely gonna be able to do both basically, fix the rake, and still allow you to tow and haul around a heavy payload at the same time, which really gives you the best of both worlds in functionality and style.Now, as far as upgrades in the rear, we do have another huge one to talk about, and that's gonna be this awesome pair of reservoir shocks. The reservoir, that's going to allow you to have a little bit more hydraulic fluid in there, which is gonna help you out with cooling exactly what you want. Again, when you're leaning on these, the rear is gonna hold up just as well as the front. You also get a fast adjust knob on there. It's got three settings, comfort, moderate, and heavy. That's going to allow you to dial in the stiffness, allow you to control whatever payload you have on the rear of your Tacoma. Now, of course, these are also a little bit longer to allow you to deal with that extra lift we have in the rear of our truck, and they also come with some roost guards as well to keep that piston shaft protected, deal with any debris flung up by the tires when you're doing some off-roading, which is a nice little touch.So what kind of tires can you expect to fit on a suspension system like this one that's gonna give you two inches of lift? So, as far as tire sizing goes, you really can't go that much bigger over factory. The factory wheels on this truck, they're gonna be about 30.6 inches tall. As you can see, we tried the 33s, and even under light turning, you're gonna hit fender liner. If you wanted to cut that out of the way, I'm sure you could get away with it a little bit better. However, the max I would go here is probably in the middle ground, 31½, maybe 32 inches. Max I would personally go is 26570 or 16, somewhere in that area. That's gonna be about 31.6.So, next up, let's talk about a big one, and that is gonna be the price for something like this one. Simply put, this is a really high-quality kit. You're getting a lot here, and the price is gonna reflect that. I'll cut right to the chase. This is gonna be about 1,500/1,600 bucks to pick up for your Tacoma. Now, do I think that's worth it? If you're looking to go with something that is better than just any other standard spacer lift kit, this is a great option, and I think this is something that's going to hold up for a very, very long time. A lot of engineering goes into something like this, and, yes, I do think it is worth the price tag. And Teraflex even backs it with their three-year warranty.So, next up, let's get to the good stuff. Let me show you how to get this installed on your Tacoma. Now, before we do, a couple of things I do wanna go over here. If you plan on using your factory wheels and tires after the install, there is a little bit of extra cutting involved. They have a little bit too much backspacing, and we need to make room for our reservoir. So the rear shock bucket is gonna have to have a small cut taken out of it. Also, trucks that are on the newer side, specifically 2015, '16, '17, and anything newer, it's gonna require the use of a 7/8 inch drill bit on that upper rear shock mount. I'll show you how all that works in just a second here. Now, the install is not gonna be easy. We're gonna need a spring compressor. I'm gonna give it a full three out of three. It should take you about a day if you come with the right tools. So without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll need and how it's done.Tools I use for this install will include the impact mini-ducktor some safety glasses are gonna be a must, a good set of pry bars, the drill, ratchet, a good set of adjustable. This one in the middle here is called the spud wrench. It's got the alignment dowel at the end that is really, really helpful, a good set of wrenches from 14-millimeters all the way up to 19-millimeters. Ratcheting wrenches will help you a ton here, sockets ranging from 22-millimeters all the way down to 10, Allen keys ranging from 4-millimeters all the way up to 8-millimeters, a U-joint, some spray lubricant like PB Blaster, brake clean, spray paint, a half-inch drill bit, as well as some new cotter pins and some blue Loctite. If you are working on a 2015 and newer, you will also need a 7/8 inch drill bit, step that will help you out, needle nose pliers, center punch, sharpie, tape measure, hammer. If you plan on running factory wheels, you'll also need a cut-off wheel and die grinder. If you have aftermarket wheels, you will not need either of those two. Now, not pictured in this shot will be the spring compressor and the floor jacks.So, over by the truck, we can get started with the install. First things first, you wanna make sure your truck is jacked up nice and safely. Use jack stands. Throw a tire underneath of it. You wanna be careful with that one. Secondly, go ahead and pop the wheels off. That's gonna reveal all your suspension components. A nice healthy dose of PB Blaster, some sort of rust penetrant is gonna help. The earlier you can get that soaking, the better.Now, to start on our suspension components...well, actually not. The first thing we're gonna do is disconnect our brake line brackets. They're held on with some 10 and 12-millimeter bolts. During the install, you don't wanna stretch those. So we're just gonna go ahead and disconnect the brackets first thing. So the first one we're gonna disconnect is a 12-millimeter bolt right here on the knuckle. Pop that out of the way. And for safekeeping, I'm just gonna thread the hardware right back in. Next one we're gonna remove is right here on the frame, and this is 12 as well. And the last one's gonna be right here on the upper control arm.Next thing we're gonna disconnect is our sway bar. It's held on by a 17-millimeter nut. Now, if this does spin on you, you can get in here with a 6-millimeter Allen key to hold that boulder still. We're gonna try with the impact first. Lucky enough, no problem. We can go ahead and pop that out, move it aside, and we're gonna do the same thing over on the other side. I'm gonna hit that off-camera, and we can move right along.Now, the next thing we're gonna focus on here is our tie rod, and that has a cotter pin in it. So I'm just gonna take the needle nose and make that nice and flat. So, hopefully, we could pull it out without breaking it. To be honest, I'll probably replace both of these anyways. Actually, not too bad, surprisingly. Old truck working on a '05 came right out. Now we can remove that castle nut with a 19-millimeter socket.And what I'm gonna do actually is I'm gonna thread that right back on a couple threads, reason being this tie rod is stuck in this taper right here. So what we're gonna have to do is give that a tap with the hammer to release it. You're gonna wanna make sure you have a pair of these with you just to be safe. So now that we have that pop loose, we can fix any damage done to the dust shield here and then go ahead and remove that nut.Next thing we're gonna take care of is our upper ball joint, and there's a cotter pin in that. So we're just gonna go ahead and get that out of there. Now we can come in with a 19-millimeter socket on the U-joint and get that nut off there. And just like before, I'm gonna thread that back on while we pop that ball joint. Now, this is gonna serve two purposes. One, it's gonna protect our threads, and two, it's gonna catch this upper control arm popping off too fast. Now we can remove the nut and pull the two apart.Next, we're gonna work on this bolt on the lower side of our strut, 19-mil on both sides. Go in there, grab that. And we're gonna push that bolt out. Next thing we're gonna tackle is up at the top here. We got three 14-millimeter nuts holding the strut into the bucket. We're gonna go ahead and remove those. I got the short socket on the ratchet here to do so. And while those are still attached, I'm just gonna grab the ratcheting wrench and get that one in the back. That just goes to show how much heat makes a difference. Obviously, don't apply too much because right underneath that there is some rubber and right there there's some rubber. So, be careful. But if you're struggling, the induction coil will help. I wouldn't use the blowtorch just because of the rubber, but hey, with the back one removed, we can make quick work of these two in the front with the electric ratchet.So now we can go ahead and remove our strut. We're gonna have to do a little bit of work with the sway bar here just to make sure that it clears, but once you get the bottom out, it's really not that bad. So that's one side uninstalled. I would go ahead and go over to the other side and get that caught up to exactly where we're at right now. And before you go to the spring compressor, we actually need to remove our skid plate, reason being our sway bar is gonna have to come out so we could install these sway bar relocation brackets. They're gonna go right there. That's what we're gonna do next, and again, the first step to that is removing the skid plate. So this is held on with four 12-millimeter bolts. We're actually missing one right there, but that's no big deal. There's one there, one there, one there. There should be one there. We're gonna remove them all. This thing does tend to vibrate when you impact it. So, cover your ears. Now, it's gonna be held on with a couple hooks at the front. So just grab it by the back. Lift it up. Push it forward. It will drop right off.Now we're gonna swap over to the 14-millimeter socket and remove these two bolts on the sway bar, same thing goes on the other side. So here's how this is gonna work. You can see on our new relocation bracket we have a couple of different holes. These two are gonna line up with our original holes, and the one in the back, we're gonna get that started for the factory bolt. And then in this recessed one here, we're gonna put in this new bolt and tighten that down with an Allen key, but first, we gotta hit that with a little bit of blue Loctite. And we're gonna tighten that down with an 8-millimeter Allen key.So now what we're gonna do is we're gonna take the short 17-millimeter bolt that comes with those sway bar brackets. We're gonna get that started finger-tight, reason being this sway bar bracket, it's gonna slide in there like so, and then we can tighten down the other side. Now, we're gonna wait on that. I'm gonna get the other side caught up to this one, and what we're actually gonna do next is start on our struts, reason being, the looser this is, the easier the strut is gonna be able to get in there. So we're gonna save that until after we get the strut in.So here we are over by the machine that keeps me awake at night. You definitely gonna be engaging the safety squints for something like this. But in all seriousness, all jokes aside, you wanna take this thing seriously. When you compress a spring like this, there's so much potential energy. So you wanna make sure all those fingers have a nice good grasp on those coils before you go ahead and crank down and remove that 17-millimeter nut on top. We have everything lined up I got lined up off-camera. So I'm gonna go ahead and crank down on this, and we can remove the nut.So we don't need that much tension right now. Once you could spin the strut freely here at the bottom, you're pretty much good to go. What we're gonna do, grab our 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench. Get that started around the nut. And I'm gonna use the adjustable because I'm a terrible mechanic. Now, as we come to the last couple of threads, you can see our strut is held up by that bushing right there. I'm just gonna relieve some tension. Now we can pull out our old blue and yellow struts.So now that we have our good old Bilstein removed from the spring, I figure now be the perfect time to grab our new Teraflex strut, put it on the table next to the old one, and draw some comparisons and differences between both of these two pieces. The first thing I really wanna highlight here is just how much more beefy this new strut is gonna be. The body is effectively 50% bigger. This guy over here is about an inch and a half in diameter, while our new one is gonna be two and a quarter inches. So, that means there's a lot more fluid in this new one, and that is gonna help with the cooling capacity.Now, it's the same story up here with the shaft as well. This one measures about 14 millimeters in diameter. This one is gonna measure about 19 millimeters in diameter, and that extra durability is really gonna go a long way if you plan on really beating on your Tacoma. So that is definitely a good thing to have. Down at the bottom, again, same story. You can see just how thin this Bilstein is right here, and that's definitely gonna be a weak point, not as big of a problem with the new Teraflex unit. This is definitely way more beefy than the factory stuff.Now, we're getting some brand new features as well. Of course, we have that Zerk fitting at the bottom. Again, that's going to allow you to keep that continuously lubricated. That's not a feature on a factory Bilstein. So that is definitely a nice touch. And we have some choice where this carrier is gonna go with that snap ring right there. Now is the time we're gonna have to make that choice. So, if you plan on not wanting any lift, move it up one that direction, and if you do have some heavy-duty off-road gear, move it down one, and right in the middle is gonna be level. That's exactly where we're gonna stick.Now, our carrier is gonna be an upgrade as well. This is billet aluminum, which is really, really nice stuff. And then we have this isolator here, which is injection-molded, and that is durable for sure. That's exactly what you want. We can go ahead and slide that over top just like so. We also have this brand new bump stop right here. Again, this is microcellular foam, good stuff. All this is gonna do is slide right over top of the shaft just like that. It's actually gonna sit closer to right there. And that's pretty much gonna do it as far as differences and similarities go between these two.One small thing, we are losing that boot on there, which I thought was a nice touch, but hey, the seals on here are really good, and they're definitely gonna keep that shaft really clean. So without any further ado, we can go ahead and grab our new strut. We're gonna head back to the spring compressor and get this bolted up.All right. So back by the spring compressor, when you're putting this in, you wanna make sure the Zerk fitting is gonna face the wheel. That way you have easy access to it, and I happen to know that that guy is over here. So what we're gonna do is come up through there like that, throw that on the top, and it just needs to be a hair tighter. And we can line all that up, and we could tighten that down with our 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench and the adjustable. And I believe that the top of this is actually an 8-millimeter nut if you wanted to hold that still with a real wrench. Now, at this point, we can relieve the tension on our spring compressor and head back to the truck.Now, all we're gonna do is come back to the truck, and we're gonna get that started in the bucket and push that up through. For now, just finger tight. You wanna throw those 14-millimeter nuts back on. We'll get the bottom situated, and then we'll come back and tighten down the top after we got the bottom done.All right. So, the bottom, we're actually pretty close. We're pretty lined up here, pretty much just eyeballed the rotation of this, but you wanna make sure this Zerk fitting is out. If not, head back to the spring compressor and flip this 180. Otherwise, the studs at the top aren't gonna line up. So, the bottom, what we're gonna have to do, just see if I can get it started here, and it's not looking great. So what I'm gonna do, this guy right here is called the spud wrench. It's basically an adjustable. It's also got a hammer on there, but at the bottom, it has an alignment dowel. This is like an ironworkers tool, but it comes in handy for stuff like this. I'm just gonna give it a small turn. There we go, lines up really, really easily. I highly recommend having something like this on hand.Now we can throw in our 19-millimeter bolt, and on the other side, we're gonna throw on a washer and our 19-millimeter nut, and then we could tighten that down. Back up to the top, we got three 14-millimeter nuts to tighten down. I'm just gonna take down some of the threads with the electric ratchet. At this point, you wanna get the strut on the other side completely caught up, and then you could bolt down your sway bar over here as well, and again, 17-millimeter socket.Next thing we're gonna take care of is our upper ball joint, and to do that, I'm just gonna get that upper control arm seated in the knuckle. A lot of times, you do have to use a pry bar, but this one looks like it was tightened down pretty low. So, you can just get it with your hands, but once you get that done, go ahead and throw on the 19-millimeter castle nut and tighten it down. Align the hole and run back through your cotter pin.Next thing we're gonna do is our tie rod, and that's gonna go right back in and then secure with the factory 19-millimeter castle nut as well. And just for safety's sake, we're gonna go ahead and get rid of that old rusty cotter pin and put a fresh one in there. Next thing we're gonna take care of is our sway bar and link into the knuckle. It's gonna go through just like so and get a factory 17-millimeter nut.So now we're pretty much done. I just gotta put our brake and ABS lines back. We're gonna start with this one on the upper control arm. This is gonna require a 10-millimeter socket. Then we'll swap over to the 12 to get this one on the frame, and we're gonna need a 12 for this one on the knuckle as well. And after we're done this, you repeat the same process over on the other side. Get that all buttoned up, and then we can move to the rear. Now, at this point, this side is pretty much wrapped up. We're gonna go ahead and repeat the same process over on the other side, get the skid plate hooked up with the 12-millimeter socket, and then we can move to the rear.So now we can get started on the rear. First thing we're gonna have to do is get this shock out of here. Now, if you're working on really any Tacoma, especially the older ones, this one being a 2005, you're gonna find a ton of rust. And these two 14-millimeter nuts right here are gonna be really, really tough to remove. So I already broke out the big guns off-camera. I hit it with the wire brush, a little bit of rust penetrant, and the induction coil just to throw some heat on there. We're also gonna break out the good old Knipex pliers here with the Cobra jaw to hold the boot still while we back that nut off. And there we go. There's two nuts on there. They're jam nuts. The other one got away from me, but this goes to show you a little bit of prep work and the right tools, a little bit of know-how make quick work of any rusty nut. Now we can use a 17-millimeter wrench and socket to remove the bolt out of the bottom shock mount.Now, next up, we're gonna focus on removing our U-bolts and basically disconnecting the leaf spring from the axle tube. Before you do that, you wanna make sure the axle tube is supported, if you're working on the floor, floor jack. Our case, we're gonna use pole jacks here and just apply some very light upward pressure to keep that from moving around. And it's a 19-millimeter socket to remove these four nuts. Then you can pull this plate off the bottom and remove the U-bolts. Another thing we're gonna remove is this factory bump stop from the top of the leaf spring.So now that we have all of our rear suspension components removed, I figure now is the perfect time to lay everything out, put the old stuff next to the new stuff, and again, we'll draw some comparisons and differences between our factory stuff and our new Teraflex kit. Now, first things first, let's talk about these shocks. Now, the biggest difference between these two is going to be volume. You can see the shock body is going to be much bigger with a new one being about 2.3 inches in diameter. Old one's gonna be about 1.7. So you're adding fluid there, which is gonna help, again, with cooling capacity. Also adding to that, this is gonna be a reservoir shock. So you get some extra fluid in there as well, again, cooling capacity.On that reservoir, you also get that fast adjust knob, allowing you to dial in exactly how this shock is gonna respond, and that's not a feature at all on the factory stuff, so a huge upgrade there. Now, while we're on the topic of diameter, let's talk about the shafts. I can't see past this metal boot on the factory one, but it's safe to say that this new Teraflex shaft is gonna be a little bit bigger in diameter just adding to the durability.Now, to go over some of the other components we have on the table, again, we have our lift block in the middle with that little alignment pin. Again, you don't have one of these from the factory. So there's nothing to compare it to, but you do have some supporting components that are gonna come with that lift block. We have our new bump stop right here, which is gonna be a foam instead of this metal one, which was from the factory. It's also a little bit taller. As I put it in there, we still depress it in so it's gonna get just a tiny bit shorter but just adding a little bit more height for the bump stop.Also, we're getting new U-bolts here. These are gonna be a little bit longer to accommodate for the lift, and that is exactly what we're gonna need. So, that's pretty much gonna do it as far as differences and similarities between these two kits go. There's a little bit of prep work we're gonna have to do for this shock before we head back to the truck, and I figured we'd do that now while we're on the table. It's gonna involve this guy right here. What this is, this is an alignment tab if you wanna use factory wheels. You can see there's already one on there if you wanna use aftermarket wheels, and it's kind of got a bias to it. Now, what that's gonna do is this is gonna sit on that lift in the bucket, and it's basically gonna turn the reservoir from being flush like that out like that so it can clear the bucket without cutting.Now, the factory wheels, the backspacing is just too heavy. So what they give you is this one that's perfect 90. It's gonna bring that reservoir in. We're gonna have to cut our shock bucket, but the tire is gonna clear in front of that. Our truck is gonna run factory wheels. So we're gonna show you exactly what goes into something like that if you wanted to keep your factory wheels.First things first, though, we gotta change out that alignment tab. Now, what we're gonna do is pull off our bushings, and then this is gonna go aside. You can see how this is biased to the side. That little turn right there, that's gonna move the reservoir out past the bucket and allow everything to clear without cutting. Again, this is what you're gonna wanna use if you have aftermarket wheels that cut down on the backspacing.Factory wheels, we're gonna use this one that's a perfect 90. That is gonna go on there. Then we can reinstall our bushings, and for the time being, I'm gonna put the top bushing on and hold that together with the nut. This is factory. This is aftermarket. Now, the next thing we're gonna have to take care of on that shock is gonna be this guy right here. This is called a roost guard. It's just basically another layer of protection over that piston shaft, and this is going to attach with the 4-millimeter Allen key bolt that comes included in the kit. Before we do it, though, we're gonna hit it with a little bit of blue Loctite.So once you have that roost guard installed, that's gonna be the shock taken care of. Now we can get back to the job at hand, installing this lift block. We'll come back and install the shocks obviously a little bit later on, and, of course, since we're doing factory wheels, there's gonna be a little bit of cutting involved. So, stay tuned for that. Right now, before we do this lift block, we have to install the actual foam part for our bump stop into this mounting cup. So, all we're gonna do is lube it up, and press it into place.So, now we're all set, and with that foam part installed, you can see the height difference in these bump stops. Put the two behind each other like that. You can see our new one is gonna be just a little bit taller. But that's gonna do it. Let's hop back for the install. We're gonna need our rear lift block obviously and this little alignment towel to make sure everything lines up. Then we can bolt it down with the new U-bolts. Back over by the truck, all we're gonna do is lower our pole jacks to make some room. And once we think we got enough, we can go ahead and slide in that lift block and let that little alignment dowel slide into place. Now, if you haven't done so already, you wanna get the other side caught up and then do the same thing. Now, at this point, we're just gonna align everything. Come up on pole jacks.Now, at this point, once we have everything lined up, we can go ahead and throw on our new bump stops and tighten everything down with the new U-bolts. Now, on the bottom of the U-bolts, we're gonna get our new 22-millimeter nut started, and when we tighten these down, just like changing a tire, you wanna do this in a cross pattern just to make sure the forces are evenly distributed along this plate. And then we can do the same thing over on the other side. You see that's looking about even right there.So next thing we're gonna do is install our shocks. Now, we got a little bit to go over, again, if you plan on doing factory wheels versus aftermarket wheels. Now, if you're using the other alignment tab, this is gonna get a little bit of an angle to it sort of like that, and the reservoir is then gonna be able to clear this shock bucket right here. However, you do need aftermarket wheels that have less backspacing than factory in order to have this right here. Now, factory tab, what that's gonna do is keep this flush. That is going to be able to accommodate for the extra backspacing that the factory wheel has. However, the shock isn't gonna go up there because the bucket is basically in the way. So what we have to do is notch that to allow our reservoir to get all the way up in there, and then it's gonna be as simple as pie. I'm gonna grab the cutoff wheel, the grinder, and some black spray paint, and we'll get that taken care of.So, how you're gonna wanna measure this, you basically wanna follow this flat line right here and just come all the way back sort of like that, so just a continuation of this line, and that's gonna be an inch and three-quarter deep. Now, you're also gonna wanna measure about an inch down from the top, and, hey, we're pretty close actually right where we're at right there. And then you just wanna follow this line straight down parallel basically with the frame. I'm just using the ruler as a straight edge. Come in just this gauche. And that is gonna be our cut right there. In order to get this radius, we're gonna drill out a half-inch hole.So we're gonna start with the pilot hole using the step bit. Now we could take the cutoff wheel and follow the lines. So over here on the driver's side, we're gonna do the same exact cut. However, there is an extra support bracket here. There's really no measurement for this, but you're just gonna cut it on a diagonal following that sort of ellipse right there, and then you're gonna bring it to this corner. Next thing we're gonna do is just clean up our cuts a little bit. I got the flat [inaudible 00:43:18] and die grinder to do that. We're gonna do the same thing over here on this side, and then we can give it a fresh coat of paint.Now, there's one step left and that is to finally install our shock. Now, before we do, one thing I do have to mention for the newer trucks, specifically 2015 and newer, what you wanna do is drill out this top mount here to 7/8 of an inch, and obviously, you'd wanna spray-paint that too. But that's basically going to allow your bushing to sit correctly in that top mount. Since we're working on an older truck, we don't need to do that, and this can go right in. And then on the top, we're just gonna put our bushing down and then follow up with the 19-millimeter nut. So now we just need to get the bottom-mounted up with the factory 19-millimeter hardware. You might as well set the shock too soft for this step and then take the pry bar, that up in the air a little bit, and try to get that bolt started. And, again, we could tighten that down with 19-mil on both sides.Guys, that's gonna do it for the install. Just a couple of closing thoughts here, you wanna make sure everything is torqued to spec. Then you can put the wheels back on and take your Tacoma right to the alignment shop. Well, that's gonna do it for my review and install of the Teraflex 2-inch Falcon Sport Tow Haul Lift System fitting all '05 and newer Tacomas. As always, guys, thank you for watching. Keep it right here at Extreme Terrain for all things Tacoma.
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Boosts Ride Quality and Driving Stability. If you’re feeling like your Toyota Tacoma truck’s suspension is in need of upgrading, then go for extreme comfort by installing the Teraflex 2-inch Falcon Sport Tow/Haul Lift System onto your truck. Doing so gives your truck a healthy amount of ground clearance, allowing it to clear any off-road obstacle with ease. Moreover, the included Falcon shock absorbers are guaranteed to make every ride as comfortable as ever, whether you’re off-roading or towing/hauling something heavy.
Increases Towing and Hauling Performance. This Sport Tow/Haul Lift System is designed to make your Toyota Tacoma truck to be the towing and hauling beast that it can be. Indeed, the heavy-duty Front and Rear Falcon shocks work in tandem with the rest of the components in order to give your truck the added stability and reliability to tow or haul loads of any size.
High-Quality Falcon Shocks. The Falcon Shock Absorbers included in this kit are engineered to offer the finest in terms of riding comfort and driving stability, especially when it comes to extreme off-roading or towing/hauling situations. Moreover, they also allow you to control just how much shock absorption you need, depending on where you’re driving or how heavy you’re hauling. With Falcon Shock Absorbers installed onto your truck to cushion your ride, you can drive in comfort and safety, with confidence.
Includes Lift Leaf Spring Blocks. This Tow/Haul Lift System from Teraflex includes lift leaf spring blocks, which help add height to your vehicle and give it an equal and even bearing. They are made with only the highest quality steel, resulting in superior durability and attractive finish.
No Welding Required. Teraflex engineered this Sport Tow/Haul Lift System to be installed without needing any welding, qualifying it as a bolt-on kit. It should be noted, however, that some minor cutting and drilling is required for a seamless and flush installation. We recommend enlisting the help of a professional in installing this kit for an easier setup.
Covered by Teraflex Limited Lifetime Warranty. Teraflex suspension lift kits and other products sold under the Teraflex name are warranted to be free from defects as long as the original purchaser owns the vehicle on which the products are installed, unless otherwise specified. This warranty does not cover or include product finish, improperly installed or applied products, or products used for racing or competition. Moreover, damage to Teraflex products caused by abuse or neglect are not covered by this warranty.
Application. This Teraflex 2-inch Falcon Sport Tow/Haul Lift System fits all 2005 to 2020 Toyota Tacoma truck models.
Application Note. Never exceed factory tow/haul ratings. Do not use the tow/haul modes while unladen, as the increased rear stiffness could upset the balance between the front and rear of the vehicle, which could lead to dangerous loss of vehicle control.
Fitment: 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) a Day
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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