Review & Install Video
The TeraFlex two-and-a-half-inch lift kit without shocks is for anyone with a two-door 2007 to 2018 JK that's looking for a lift to allow them to run a bigger tire on your Jeep. You are gonna be able to run a 35-inch tire with this lift kit installed. If you don't have the factory plastic air dam in place, a 37 is definitely not going to fit with two-and-a-half inches of lift, especially if you have Rubi rails installed on your Jeep. And if you wanted to step down to a set of 33-inch tires with this lift kit, you're going to have plenty of room for articulation. And it's also going to be a pretty straightforward and fairly easy installation at two-out-of-three wrenches. There's a good bit of disassembly of the Jeep to do in order to get it installed, but no drilling, no cutting, nothing major. And if you have some hand tools and a jack and jack stands, you can do this in your driveway, and we're gonna show you how to get it done in just a second.
So, when you're looking at lift kits, you're going to find ones that are sort of all over the spectrum when it comes to pricing, and usually that will equate to how complete the kit is, whether it has things like brake line extensions, track bar bracket, sway bar end links, those major components that you're going to need and want with your lift kit. And this one from TeraFlex is going to include all of that. Of course, this kit does not include a new longer set of shocks, which is something you're going to want to install when installing a two-and-a-half inch lift kit, either a shock extension or a new longer shock. The reason this kit does not included is because they want you to have the flexibility to include whatever shock in your build you wanna be running. If you do like TeraFlex offerings, there are a couple of two-and-a-half-inch lift kits from them that do come with their shock, so you have that option as well.
So, let's talk about some of the components that are going to come in this kit. You're going to have new longer coil springs all the way around. That's what's going to provide you with your two-and-a-half inches of lift. You're also going to get some bump stop extensions for both the front and the rear of the Jeep. And the bump stops are really important because they do a couple of things. One, they're going to limit up-travel of the suspension so that a tire isn't going to end up into your fender. It's also going to keep your shock from fully compressing, which can damage the shock. So, again, that's important. Not included in all kits, is included in this kit. You're going to get a new set of longer rear sway bar end links with this suspension kit. So, the rear sway bar angle is going to be back closer to a factory angle with those longer end links. Up front, you don't need a new set of longer ones, so they're not included here. If you wanted to add them or add a set of disconnects, again, TeraFlex has some offerings, and we also have some offerings from some other manufacturers as well.
Along with the springs, the new longer sway bar end links and the bump stop extensions you're going to have some other things like brake line extensions for the back of the Jeep. Now, the brake line's, of course, very, very important. When you have a new taller suspension, you're doing some articulating off-road, you want to make sure you're not gonna pull one of those lines taut, possibly rupture a brake line. Of course, that's very bad. So, you're gonna have some longer brake line extensions in the back that is gonna move the mounting points down, giving you a little bit of additional room there. In the back, you're also going to have a track bar bracket, and TeraFlex offers two different track bar brackets with their lift kits. This particular one comes with the better track bar bracket in pretty much every way. This track bar bracket attaches to the axle in a total of three different locations, making it a very strong point because as you raise where the track bar connects to the axle, there's a lot of leverage there and you certainly don't want that moving around. It can feel like the back end of the Jeep is swaying when you're driving on the highway. And, again, that's not something you want to experience. So, track bar bracket that's included here is very, very solid and it has two different mounting points for the track bar itself. So, depending on where you mount that it'll change the angle of the track bar, thereby changing the roll center of the Jeep and you can really dial in how the Jeep rides, how it handles or because this is the two-and-a-half-inch lift kit, just put it on that lower hole if you don't want to have to think too much about it and you're not really worried about dialing it in.
Along with all the components that I just talked about, the kit, of course, includes all the hardware necessary to get them installed, so it is a very complete kit, and TeraFlex does a really nice job engineering all of their stuff for your Jeep in particular. So, this is a two-door 2007 to 2018. The springs in this kit are gonna be different than the ones for a four-door because, again, it's all dialed in for that two-door for the weight of the vehicle to make sure it's gonna handle really well on the road, ride really well on the road, but also handle and perform really well off-road. So, these are really well-put-together kits, and because you are getting a kit that is a more premium option on the market, it is gonna be a little bit more expensive than some of the other ones. You can find other two-and-a-half-inch lift kids that don't include shocks, that are gonna be less expensive than this one is. But if you're looking for something quality, something that's going to ride really well, and something that's going to be very, very complete, I would recommend this one even at the slightly higher price than some of the other options out there right around that $550 mark. So, as I mentioned before, this is gonna be two-out-of-three wrenches for the installation. I'm gonna show you how to get that install done right now.
For this installation, we used a variety of sockets and wrenches from seven-sixteenths to three-quarters standard and from 18-millimeter to 21-metric. We drove those with a variety of socket drivers as well as a variety of impacts, both electric and pneumatic. You're also going to need a razor knife, a marker that will mark on black rubber, a trim removal tool, used a large mallet, and also a pry bar along with a drift to help us get some bolt holes lined up, and a long screwdriver for prying. To get started with our two-out-of-three wrench installation, we have the Jeep up in the air here, but if you're doing this in your driveway, you could simply support the Jeep by the frame on some jack stands. But you do want to get it up in the air just a little bit because what we're going to be doing is removing everything that keeps that axle from sagging down in order to get the axle low enough to get the factory springs out. So, as you can see, ours is up in the air. We're gonna put some pole jacks underneath the axle to support the weight and then start removing and loosening things to lower that axle down. So, first thing's first, we'll get the pole jacks in place.
With the weight of the axle supported, we're going to remove the sway bar end link from the axle side. With this lift kit, we're not going to be changing out the front sway bar end link, so just removing them from the axle side, keeping the hardware with the end link. And once we have both sides done, pushing the sway bar up out of the way is going to be more than enough for this install. So, grab a couple of 18-millimeter wrenches and get to it. And like I said, we're just gonna put the factory hardware right back in here to store it, so we don't misplace it, and we'll bolt this back up after the new springs are installed. We'll jump over to the other side and do the same thing.
The next thing we're going to be doing is removing our track bar bolt, and while this is not a captured nut on the backside, it is a flag nut, so we don't have to hold it with anything. You will have to catch it though because we're gonna have to hang onto that. We're gonna be reusing it. This is a large 21-millimeter socket, and you may need a large breaker bar or a half-inch impact to get that loose because it usually has quite a few foot-pounds of torque on it. Just like the sway bar end links, we're gonna put the hardware back into the track bar just as a spot to keep it. That way, we don't misplace anything, and that's just gonna be going right back in there after we get our spring swapped out anyway.
The next thing we're going to remove are the lower shock bolts up front here, and, again, this is just something we have to remove in order to get the axle to droop down and get the spring swapped out, but they're gonna be going right back in again. So, again, we have our 18-millimeter wrenches, we'll remove those bolts. Just like everything else so far, we're just gonna pop that back in for safekeeping. While we're in this area, we're also going to remove this small 10-millimeter bolt, and that just holds this brake line bracket to the bottom spring perch. This isn't absolutely necessary, but it does give us a little bit more room to drip that axle down without pulling tight on either of these brake lines. So, we'll remove that bolt. Once the bolt is out of the way, as you can see, it frees up this brake line bracket. So, now we have a little bit more room. We'll jump over to the other side and do the other lower shock bolt and the other brake line bracket
At this point, we're ready to lower down the axle and pull out the factory springs. The next thing we're going to do is install our bump stop extensions before we put our new longer springs in place, and all that consists of is pulling our factory bump stops out of the bump stop tube, putting our extension in and popping the foam bump stop back into the bottom of this. Now, that sometimes can be easier said than done. This is a pretty stiff rubber, and this has some detents in the bottom of that bump stop tube that can make it a little bit tough to get it pushed up in there. So you can try lubricating it. You can try using leverage or something that I've resorted to a few times is, marking the top of your bump stop extension here and using a really sharp razor knife to just carve away a little bit of material. Makes it a little bit easier to get it up in there and then you can just give it a little bit of a turn to make sure that it locks in place and doesn't move on you. So, we'll see what it takes to get ours into place, and we'll show you a couple of those different ways of doing it.
So, these can be a little bit tough to get out as well. We ended up using a large screwdriver. You can pry it up between the bump stop cup and the bump stop itself and use it to help pry the bump stop out of the cup. Once you have it out, we'll clean it up, lubricate it, so it's ready to go in our bump stop extension once we get the extension installed.
So, no luck just trying to press this up into place with a little bit of lubrication on it. And whether that works or not for you will depend on how far these tabs are bent. Ours are just bent pretty far in and they're very difficult to try and bend further out. So, what we're going to do is hold our extension up to where we like it. We can either put a couple of marks on here or just mentally note where we need to carve out, and with a sharp razor knife, we'll just carve a little bit out of this upper lip, just a little bit, just to clearance that. Then we'll be able to set this up in place, give it a little bit of a turn and it'll be locked in.
So, with the extension where it's going to sit, we'll just put a couple of marks on it where those tabs are, so then when we head over to the table with a sharp razor knife, we know where to carve. So, as you can see we marked down there, but this lip is actually what we're gonna take the material out of. And we just need to shave a little bit off. And like with any other sort of cutting, you can't put it back. So, we'll just take a little bit off. We'll go test fit it. If it works, great. If not, we can always come back and remove a little bit more. I'll give that a go. See if it works. Once we have it seated all the way up, we're just gonna give it a little bit of a turn to make sure it locks in. And there we go. All that's left is to slide the factory bumps up back into the bottom of the extension. Just like with everything else, we'll use a little bit of lubrication on here just to make it a little bit easier for us. Once it's lubed up, just giving it a little bit of a turn as we push it. Should seat it up in there. And there we go. We're gonna do the same thing on the other side and then we'll get the springs put in.
So, after trying to fit our springs in, it looks like our axle isn't quite low enough and the limiting factor is our driveshaft. We knew this might be an issue, but sometimes with the two-and-a-half-inch lift spring, you can still get it in there. Again, we weren't able to this time, so all we need to do is take a 15-millimeter socket, remove the bolts where the driveshaft attaches to the pinion. That will allow us to drop the axle far enough to get that spring in nice and easy. So, these are the bolts we're gonna be removing. Before we do that, we're just gonna put a mark on the driveshaft and on the flange. That way, we make sure everything lines up the same way when we put it back together. Now, we can take out those 15-millimeter bolts.
With the driveshaft disconnected from the pinion, we can lower the axle back down again, and we should have plenty of room to get those new taller springs installed. At this point, we're ready to slide the TeraFlex spring into place. First, we'll slide it over our new extended bump stop and then we'll get the bottom seated on the bottom spring perch. Once you have the spring in place, you can rotate it so that the tail of the spring sits in the pocket of the lower spring perch. Now, we can jump over to the other side and get the other spring installed. Now, we have the luxury of being on a lift here. We disconnected the driveshaft, and we have a ton of droop in the front axle in order to get our springs into place. If you don't have quite that much droop, if you're working on the ground and you just can't get the Jeep high enough to let the axle sag this much, what you can do is remove your bump stop extension here, set it to the inside of the spring. That'll make it easier to get the spring in place. Then you just have to wrestle your bump stop extension up into the bump stop tube. Now, that can also be a little bit difficult. At least you have a few more things to pry against should you need to. On this side, on the driver side of the Jeep, it's a little bit easier to get the spring in place because you don't have the drag link in the way. Over on the passenger side if you do have a little bit of a fight, you can try that method.
With both of our new longer springs installed, we can raise the axle back up and bolt everything back on. Once we have the axle to the appropriate height, we'll get those bottom shock bolts in first. So, as you can see, we got our axle up high enough that it's lined up with the bottom of the shock. So, we'll just get nut and factory bolt out of the way, and we can get it pressed back in there, and we'll get the nut back on the bolt. Gonna go over to the other side and get the other one set up and then we can come back and tighten these down. While we're over here we'll get our brake line bracket seated back in place and get that tightened up and then we'll tighten up our shock bolt. We'll jump over to the passenger side and do the same thing. Just use a small pry bar to help us get this seated back in place underneath the lower spring perch, and replace the factory hardware Now, we'll tighten up that shock bolt. So we'll do the same thing over here on this side, getting our brake line bracket bolted back up, and tightening up our shock. Now, we can bolt our driveshaft back into place. The next thing we're going to do is bolt up our sway bar end links.
The last thing to button up on the front of the Jeep before we jump to the rear is getting our track bar bolted back up, and there are a variety of different ways to do this from ratchet strapping it to just pulling on it and pushing on it and all sorts of different things to get this lined up properly. But the easiest way I've found is to put the tires on the Jeep, have the Jeep sitting under its own weight, and have a friend sit in the driver's seat and turn the steering wheel back and forth. That because of the way the drag link is and the whole steering geometry of the Jeep, will shift the body over the axle, allowing you to very easily line up that bolt without the need for any pry bars or any ratchet straps at all. So, essentially, what we've simulated is that same thing here. We have the pole jacks underneath the axle holding a little bit of the weight of the axle. We have Meredith sitting up in the driver seat, so we're going to get the factory bolt out of the track bar here, have her turn back and forth, and we'll get things lined up so I can get that bolt in and get it tightened down. Now, we can get our flag nut on the back of the bolt. Gonna grab our impact and get it tightened down.
Now, the front end is lifted. All we have to do is move on to the back and do pretty much the same thing, but it's actually a little bit easier back there because we don't have all of the steering stuff to deal with. So, let's grab these pole jacks and move onto the rear.
So, the first step on the back of the Jeep is going to be similar to the front. We're gonna get our pole jacks underneath the axle, supporting the weight of the axle and then go to work, removing and loosening everything that we need to get that axle to droop. So, with the weight of the axle on the pole jacks, we're gonna focus in on this area here, first removing the lower shock bolt in the back and that'll give us a little bit of extra room to remove the lower bolt out of the sway bar end Link. Just like on the front, we're gonna put our factory hardware right back in the shock for safety. Now that the shock is out of the way you can see we have a little bit more room to get on that lower sway bar end link bolt and we'll remove that next.
We're gonna finish up on this side by removing this brake line bracket off of the frame and also popping a couple of plastic clips loose on this wire, which is our wheel speed sensor. Again, making sure that nothing's gonna get in the way of our axle drooping down. We're also gonna remove this plastic clip here on the upper control arm bracket. We just want to give ourselves as much length as we possibly can get on this wire. We don't want to pull it taut while we're drooping the axle down to get the springs out. As we work our way over to the driver side to do the same thing, we're gonna make a stop right here in the middle of the Jeep and remove this bracket for the parking brake cables. Now, we can remove the rear track bar bolt. The last thing we should need to disconnect is this breather line from the axle so that doesn't get pulled tight. And now we can start going down on our pole jacks to lower the axle. Now, everything should be loosened and disconnected enough that we can lower down on the pole jacks, get the axle low enough that we can pull out those factory springs, and get our new ones in.
Before we put the rear springs in place, we're going to put our bump stop extensions in, just because it gives us a little bit more room with those springs completely out. And this is the rear bump stop extension. As you can tell, it looks very different from the front one. Instead of going up top here in the bump stop cup or the bump stop tube, it goes on the bottom on the bump stop pad. But the idea is the same. It takes up a little bit of space there. So, this has a set of two holes in it, as does the pad. You have some hardware, you simply bolt these down into place. This is a locking nut so you're only going to get a couple of turns on it by hand. Before we tighten it down, we'll get the other piece of hardware started. Now, we can go back and tighten both of those up. Then we'll install the bump stop extension on the driver side.
Now, it's time to put the rear springs in the Jeep, but what you're going to wanna do first is grab the isolator from the factory spring. And if you take a look at the isolator, you can see where the tail of the spring sat in there. So, it just makes sense to line that up with the tail of the new spring, get that aligned properly and then put the whole thing up in the Jeep. So, we're gonna set it up in the Jeep. We're gonna put a couple of turns on our pole jack just to put enough tension on the axle so that the spring isn't going to want to fall out again. We'll get the other one installed as well. And then there are some retainers that we'll install to make sure that these springs aren't gonna go anywhere.
Now, we can bolt on our rear spring retainers, and essentially what that is, is a large flat washer and some hardware, and the washer gets bolted on top of the lowest coil of the spring, and the bolt and the nut pinch the spring down onto the bottom spring perch. That way, if you do fully articulate the rear axle in a way that all of the weight comes off of one of the springs, the spring isn't going to fall out, as the weight comes back onto the spring, everything is gonna be lined right up again. So, it does come with that hardware. It's also going to come with this tool, and this is really necessary in order to get the nut on the bottom side of that spring perch. The hole is already there, but the way that the perch is welded on top of the axle tube it's really difficult, if not impossible, to get the nut in there and even more difficult, again, if not impossible, to hold that nut while you tighten the bolt from the top side. So, when you find this in your bag of hardware, that's what it's for. Make sure you hang onto it. It's going to be necessary for the step. So we'll get our washer set in place here and our bolt and our locking washer set in top of that. Then we'll load the nut into our tool and feed it underneath the spring perch here so that we can get our bolt started into it. Then we can grab a nine-sixteenths ratchet, and we'll tighten that down.
The next step we're going to do is bolting up our sway bar end links. And the reason we're doing that now is because once we have the shocks bolted up they're in the way of the hardware down here. So, while it might seem a little bit out of order, it actually does make sense to do this next. In the back of the Jeep here you actually get a new longer sway bar end link. So, we're not just bolting up the factory ones, we're going to be completely changing out that end link. So, if I swing it down to where we can see it here, we're gonna be unbolting the sway bar end link from the sway bar itself and bolting the new longer one in place. Now, with this being a tie rod and when you spin this nut, it can spin the whole threaded shaft, and there are two different ways to hold it. One is with an Allen key in the end of the shaft here, and the other is with a three-quarter-inch wrench on the other side of the sway bar, and that's what we're gonna be using. So, we'll get our wrench in there just like that, and then we can use the socket to remove the nut. This is our new, slightly longer sway bar end link. And as you can see, it's a fairly similar setup. The differences are there's no flat spot on the inside here, so we are going to have to use an Allen key in order to hold the shaft from spinning. Before we connect the end link to the axle, we'll go to the other side and swap that end link out. Now that the end link is attached to the sway bar, we can get it repositioned so that we can bolt it to the axle. We're gonna be bolting that up with our factory hardware. Now, we'll do the same thing for the other side.
Next, we're going to bolt up the lower shock mounts on the axle, but in order to do that, we need to raise the axle up by cranking on the pole jacks. Our next step is our rear brake line relocation bracket. So we're gonna bolt the bracket to the frame and the factory location with the factory hardware. Then we have some new hardware that will bolt the brake line itself onto our bracket, and the idea here is just to lower things down a little bit so that, again, at full droop, we're not going to end up with any issues of pulling taut any of our brake lines. We'll get that started there, and then, again, included in the kit here we have bolt, pair of washers, and a nut. Bolt the brake line onto the bracket, and we'll tighten all that up. Then do the same thing over on the other side.
With the weight of the axle hanging by the shocks, we can completely remove our pole jacks, and that's gonna give us a little bit more room to get on to installing the next part, which is our rear track bar bracket. Then we can put our bracket in place and start bolting it up. And, as usual, we're gonna leave all of that hardware loose until we get everything started. Then we'll go back and tighten it up. And we'll just pull our track bar down out of the way here to give us a little bit of space. So, we'll get our bracket sitting in place here where it's gonna go. Now, we can grab our lower control arm bolt, get that back in place, and then work left to right, putting the factory track bar bolt in, and finally our U-bolt before we get the track bar bolted into our bracket. We'll get that lower control arm bolt back in. If you do have an alignment issue trying to get your control arm bolt back in place, you can jack up on the pinion of the axle a little bit just to roll it, and that might help your alignment just enough to get it in a little easier. We got that started. We are gonna leave it a little bit loose until we get the rest of our bolts in place. Now, we'll put the hardware included in the kit through our bracket into the factory track bar mount, and we have this large crush sleeve that's gonna slide in from the bottom side to make sure that when we tighten this, we don't compress our bracket. After tapping our bolt in place, we'll put the washer and the nut on the back side of it. Now, we can put the U-bolt around the axle tube. Secure that with some washers and some nuts. One thing that's important to note is the thread pitch on the U-bolt is different from the bolt we just installed in the factory track bar mounting location. So, if you mix up these three nuts, you are going to end up with one that doesn't want to thread on. So, make sure you keep all of your hardware separated, so it's going in the right spots. Now, we can get our track bar bolted up in our track bar bracket. Because this need two-and-a-half-inch lift, we're going to use the lower bolt hole. All the hardware started by hand we'll go back through and tighten it all up.
With our track bar bracket all tightened up, we can tie up a couple of additional loose ends. We have to reattach our wheel speed sensor wiring to the frame and to the axle. That way it's not going to get pinched during the axle travel. We'll also reattach our breather line, and finally our parking brake bracket. So, if you are looking for a well-put-together and very complete lift kit for your JK, I would recommend taking a look at this choice from TeraFlex, and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.