(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys. So, today we're checking out the Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front and 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit, fitting all 2005 and newer 4WD Toyota Tacomas. So, if you're looking to add a little bit of extra height to your truck, a more aggressive stance, and some better ground clearance for off-road, this kit by Supreme Suspensions is definitely one that you'll want to take a look into. When it comes to what size tire you can fit with this lift kit, I would recommend a 31-inch tire, either the stock one or a more aggressive 31. You won't need to do any modifications to fit a more aggressive 31-inch tire, and will have plenty of clearance. Now, if you wanted to run a 33-inch tire with this kit, you will need to do some modifications. Otherwise, you're gonna have some rubbing issues. The clearance will still be a little tight with 33s, so this will best be suited for on-road driving only.Now, this kit is going to include two strut spacers for the front, some blocks for the rear leaf springs, and it's also going to include spacers for not only the differential, but the skid plate underneath as well, to accommodate for the added lift height, to reduce any excessive wear on other components. Now, what I like about this is the fact that it is a pretty straightforward and bare-bones kit. However, this is going to do a lot as far as benefits for your truck when it comes to performance and aesthetics. Now, this is going to, again, open up room inside the wheel well for more aggressive setup, and it's going to eliminate the rake in the front of the truck, to create a more aggressive and defined stance for the Tacoma overall.Now, I would like to call out the fact that even though this is going to have a 2-inch lift in the front, the spacer itself is going to measure in at 1 inch. Now, the 1 inch and a couple other factors are gonna create the end result of 2 inches, like the suspension geometry, that is going to have a factor in it, and the spring compression. So I would keep that in mind when taking a look at the spacer, but overall, the end result, again, is going to be 2 inches of lift in the front. Now, with all that being said, this is going to be a pretty durable lift kit. All the spacers are made of a billet aluminum construction. Also gonna have a nice anodized coating on top. It is going to be a black anodized coating that is going to prevent any corrosion to the aluminum itself underneath. So, again, this is going to be very durable and hold up for a long period of time while it's installed on your truck.Now, when it comes to pricing for this lift kit, this is gonna be roughly $200, and for everything that you're getting with this and the quality that you're getting for this, I definitely think that that's well worth the price point. This is going to be a pretty durable setup, and you can see the quality in the design. And what I really like about this is that it's going to come with accommodating components like those drop spacers for the skid plate and the differential, so you're not wearing out any other components. Now, in comparison to some other choices, some less expensive options are usually going to be a little bit smaller in lift height, or they're not gonna come with as many components. So, instead of the full kit that you see here, it may just be a leveling kit or a front spacer lift. Now, on the flip side to that, some more expensive choices are usually going to be for a taller lift height. So instead of the 2-inch that you see here, it may be a 3-inch. And then some other choices are going to come with some added components. They may have a bracket for the sway bar, or they may come with control arms. So, those are usually gonna be a little bit more expensive just because there is a little bit more to them. However, if you're not looking to break the bank, if you're only looking to get a little bit of height for those benefits that I spoke about earlier, then this is gonna be a great choice.As far as install is concerned, I'm gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It's not too challenging. Definitely, you need some mechanical know-how, but you can definitely get this done in your driveway in about four hours with some basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for this install were a can of PB B'laster, a pair of needle-nose pliers, a pair of vice grips, pneumatic impact wrenches, a tape measure, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, flat head screwdriver, a breaker bar, a couple of pry bars, a ball-peen hammer, a dead blow, a punch, a trim removal tool, a 7/8-inch wrench, 19-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 14-millimeter wrench, 19-millimeter swivel socket, a socket set ranging from 22 millimeters down to 10 millimeters, a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a marker, a pick, a 3-inch extension, an angle grinder, a pair of safety glasses, painter's tape, a cut-off wheel, and an electric impact wrench.So, the first step of our install is to get the truck up in the air and supported. Now, I have it on a lift here, but if you are at home, you can use a jack and jack stands for this install. And then our next step is to take off our front tire. Now, I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket and my spline key. However, the tool that you use may depend on what lug nut size that you have. So, after the tire is off, what we can do at this point is address our brake lines. There's gonna be a brake line bracket on the spindle, one on the frame, and then we're gonna have one on the upper control arm. For this step, you're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter socket. So, I'm gonna remove the bracket on the spindle first, using a 12-millimeter socket. Now, I'm also using a 3-inch extension to give myself a little bit of room next to this brake caliper here. Once that's removed, you can take out the little hook that's in the spindle, and we can just push it back. This is going to allow us to remove our spindle from this upper control arm and not have our brake lines affected, stressed out, or taut in the meantime. We wanna keep those protected, just because we don't want to break them. We would have to replace them if so.Next, we can remove the brake line bracket on the frame. I'm also gonna use that 12-millimeter socket and the 3-inch extension. So, what we can do now is remove the brake line from our upper control arm. Now, what I'm gonna do is remove the bracket as a whole, but you can bend back these tabs and remove the line from there. I just find it easier to just remove the whole bracket. So, I'm using a 10-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna take out that bolt. So, what we can do at this point is remove the cotter pin in the outer tie rod. We do need to disconnect this from the knuckle or the spindle here in order to get our strut out. So, I'm gonna take a pair of needle nose pliers. I also sprayed this with PB B'laster just to loosen that up. But I'm gonna take that pair of needle nose pliers, and I'm gonna go ahead and remove that cotter pin.What we can do at this point is remove the castle nut up top. I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket to remove that nut there. So, the outer tie rod might not drop out right away. What we can do at this point is take the castle nut and thread that on a couple of threads. And then we can take a hammer and just hit the side of the knuckle, or the side of the spindle here, and it should release that ball joint. You may need to give it some downward pressure, so you can just take a pry bar. So now that the ball joint released from the knuckle here, what we can do is just remove it completely. Let's thread that back on, because we'll be reattaching that a little bit later, and then we can disconnect our sway bar.What we can do next is remove the sway bar end link from our spindle. I'm gonna be using a 17-millimeter socket, and we can remove this nut. Now, if the ball joint decides it wants to spin, what we can do is just take that pry bar that we used before, and just give it some outward pressure, and it should stop it from spinning. So, if you are unable to get the hardware for the sway bar end link off with a 17-millimeter socket and that impact wrench, what you can do is remove it with a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a ratchet, and a 17-millimeter wrench. This is just going to allow you to keep the ball joint still while you are removing that hardware. If you do use an impact wrench, sometimes that can move, and even if you put pressure on it, sometimes it just keeps spinning. So, this is an alternative method that works pretty well. It just takes a little bit longer. So, I'm gonna use that 17-millimeter wrench. Gonna put that on the nut side, and same with the 6-millimeter Allen socket.Once that's removed, we'll be able to remove our sway bar from our spindle. So, the sway bar end link wanted to stay in the spindle. In order to get it out, what I'm gonna do is just take a punch, and we can put that where we put the 6-millimeter Allen socket. I'm also gonna take a dead blow, and we can just tap that out. So, now what we can do is remove the upper control arm ball joint from our spindle here. Now, we need to remove this cotter pin. I'm gonna use the same pair of needle nose pliers that I used before. After the cotter pin is removed, we can remove the castle nut. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter swivel socket. So, what I'm gonna do is take that completely off. Then I'm gonna thread it back on, just a couple of threads. Again, we have to tap the ball joint out of the spindle, because the ball joint is tapered, so it usually just sticks there like it did with the other two, so again, we're gonna have to take a ball peen hammer and tap that out of the spindle. Now, the nut there is gonna catch it. That's why we thread it on a little bit. There we go.Once that pops out of place, what we can do is continue to remove that 19-millimeter nut. And now, when we do this, the spindle is going to fall. Just make sure that you have a hand on the spindle. We're gonna carefully lay it to the side, because we will need to remove our strut assembly in just a couple minutes. But we don't want to stress out any of the joints, any of the brake lines. We wanna make sure that those are protected. Make sure you keep a handle on this. As you can see, that is disconnected. Now what we have to do is repeat that process on the other side, because we will need to move our sway bar out of the way in order to remove our strut assembly.So, after you've taken apart the other side, what we can do is start to work on our strut assembly. We're gonna have three studs at the top. I'm gonna take a 14-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna remove that hardware up there. So, after the hardware is taken out of the top of the strut, what we can do is take out this lower strut bolt. Now, for this, I have a 19-millimeter wrench and 19-millimeter deep socket, and I would also recommend that you support the lower control arm when doing this. Now, to remove this bolt, you might have to play with the height of the control arm itself, so it looks like we'll need to raise it just a hair. So, what I just did was lowered this down a little bit. Like I said, you will have to kind of play with the height of the lower control arm in order to get this bolt loosened up so that you can just push it right through. So what I'm gonna do is just push that bolt through and remove it. So, what you can also do, just like we did with the sway bar, is just take a punch. This makes it a little bit easier if it doesn't wanna come out fully by hand. And you can just tap it through. Now, again, we're gonna have to kind of mess with the height here. You may have to move the spindle around in order to do this. And we also are gonna have to get this outer tie rod and the sway bar out of the way.So, in order to make room to remove the strut assembly, what I did was pull the sway bar all the way down. The sway bar end link does have to pass that axle, so once it's pulled all the way down, the tie rod is pulled most of the way out. What we can do is just push the strut towards our brake rotor here, or towards the spindle, and we should be able to just pop that out of the way. So, once the strut assembly is out on this side, what we can do is repeat that process on the other side, and then we can install our spacers. So now that the struts are out of the truck, what we can do is add our strut spacers.Now, these are gonna have a couple of cutouts for our studs on top of our struts, and they're just gonna sit right on top, so you can line these up with the factory studs, put those on over, and then we can secure it down with our factory hardware. Now, I would like to mention that the top of this spacer is going to sit flush on the strut perch there, so, you wanna make sure that these studs are not exceeding the height of this spacer. Now, the Tacoma studs do have a little point to them. If you do have to grind them down, I would highly recommend that. I've already done that and taken care of that. So, what we're gonna do at this point is secure down our spacer with our factory hardware. Now, I also like to take a 14-millimeter socket and just thread that in by hand, and then we can tighten them up in just a second. Once those are threaded on by hand, we can take an impact wrench, tighten those up. You could also use a hand ratchet. Then we can repeat that for the other strut.So now that our spacers are installed, what we need to do next before we install our struts is to drop our differential, so what we can do now is head over to the truck. So, in order to drop our differential, we will have to remove our skid plate. Now, it's gonna be held on by four bolts, and I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket to remove them. So, there's gonna be two at the front. Again, I'm using that 12-millimeter socket to remove them. Now, when you remove the front ones, there's gonna be a couple hooks up here that are gonna hold it in, and then we can remove the ones in the back. Then we can remove the two on the back. Now, once we remove these, the skid plate is gonna drop down, but again, they are hanging on the hooks up front, so just be mindful of that.So, at this point, now that our skid plate is fully disconnected, we can just unhook it from these hooks in the front and put it to the side. So now that the skid plate is removed, that's gonna expose the arm to our differential that's connected to our crossmember here. Now, in between the crossmember and the differential is where we're gonna add our spacer, and this is going to accommodate for that added height that we're adding to our Tacoma. Now, on the driver's side, you can see the skid plate reinforcement bracket is gonna be in the way of that differential arm. We do have to drop it down a decent amount, because this is a pretty big spacer, so what we're gonna have to do is modify this. We have to just cut a little bit of this lip off in order for that differential arm to drop down far enough. So, first, before we take that off, I'm just gonna make a mark on where we need to cut it. Just taking a marker, just gonna do a mark.And then once that is there, we can grab a 17-millimeter socket and remove the four bolts that are holding this on. Now, this is only gonna be a problem on the driver's side. The passenger's side should be able to drop down with no modification and no problem at all. So, we need to remove the two bolts in the back and two in the front. I'm gonna start with the rear bolts, using a 17-millimeter socket. Then we can remove the front ones. So, after the bracket is removed, we can head over to the vise and cut our support bracket. So now that the bracket's off the truck, I did put it in a vise, and we are ready to cut off this piece to allow our differential to drop. Now, I did put a piece of painter's tape on here just to give you guys a better look at where we're cutting, because it's hard to see black marker on black paint. But we are gonna be about 3.5 inches from the back of the bracket in, and then about 1.25 inches. So, I'm gonna be using my cut-off wheel for this. I recommend a pair of safety glasses as well, and just make sure that your cut-off wheel is good to cut. I'm just using a pair of vise grips to bend off that last part, and then we can clean it up. I'm just gonna take an angle grinder and clean this up a little bit. At this point, we can just take that tape off and hit it with a little bit of spray paint, just to make sure that there's no rusting or corrosion happening on that bare metal. [inaudible 00:22:42] have to get this part, but...So, while our bracket is drying, what we can do in the meantime is drop our differential. Now, I have a pole jack that's supporting the weight of our differential, and we do need to remove the two bolts up at the front. I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket as well as a 19-millimeter wrench in order to remove those, and then we can go ahead and fit in our spacer. So, I'm gonna take a 19-millimeter wrench for the top of the crossmember here and that 22-millimeter socket for the bottom bolt. We can do the same thing for the other bolt, very carefully, because once this is removed, then the differential is disconnected from our crossmember here.So, what we can do at this point is slowly adjust the height of our differential. I'm gonna lower our pole jack here. Now, this is gonna create a gap in between each arm. As you can see, it already kind of created a gap on the passenger side one. So, again, very carefully just lower the diff. Then we'll be able to fit that spacer in. I'm gonna start with the passenger side. So now that the spacer's in place, what we can do is take our provided bolt, this is gonna be longer than our factory bolt, to accommodate for that spacer, and our nylon lock nut that it's provided in the kit. We can put that up through the arm, through our spacer, and then through the crossmember. Now, I'm gonna just thread this on a couple threads, because we still have to drop the diff just a little bit in order to fit our driver's side on.Now, at this point, our spacers are in, and we can tighten it up. So, instead of using that 22-millimeter socket, we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket, and we're also gonna use a 7/8-inch wrench. After we have our spacers in, we can reinstall our skid plate reinforcement bracket. I'm going to take the factory hardware and just thread that into place. It's those four 17-millimeter bolts. And as you can see, where we cut this clears perfectly with our differential arm here. So now we can take a 17-millimeter socket and tighten those up.Next, we can install our skid plate. I'm gonna start by hanging it on the hooks in the front. Then we can take our factory bolts and thread those into the front. Now, we're gonna have new bolts as well as spacers for the rear. So, we can take our factory bolts and thread those into the front, and we're gonna have provided bolts for the rear. Now, for the back two mounting locations, because we dropped this, we'll need to add another spacer. This is just going to go right over the factory mounting location, and I'm gonna do the same thing for the other side. And once that's on there, what we can do is take our provided hardware, which is a longer bolt, and also that washer, and we can thread this into place. And we're gonna do this on the other side. So, we can tighten up the back bolts with a 13-millimeter socket. Last but not least, for the skid plate, what we can do is tighten up those front bolts using that 12-millimeter socket we used to remove them.So now that we've taken care of the differential, what we can do is install our struts with our spacers on top. So, you wanna make sure that the two bolt holes or mounting locations are facing the outside of the truck, and the one is facing in. You just wanna make sure that the bottom mount is going to line up with the top mounting locations. So, we're just gonna put the strut in exactly how it came out, wiggle it around the sway bar, and get that into that mounting location there. What we can do at this point is secure the top down with our provided hardware. This is gonna be a bolt, lock washer, and flat washer. Now, you may have to raise the axle or the lower control arm in order to line these up. I have a pole jack underneath my lower control arm here, just to make sure that it reaches, and then we can take that provided hardware and thread that into the spacer. Now, we're not gonna tighten this down just yet. We wanna get the lower bolt in, and then we can go back and tighten everything down.What we can do now is take our factory lower strut bolt, and we can pop that through. You might have to tinker with the height of the lower control arm. You can use a pole jack or a jack stand or a floor jack to do so. What I'm gonna do is just pop that bolt through. If you need to, you can use the punch and the dead blow that we used before just to pop that through the other side, and you can secure that down with the factory washer and bolt. Now, we're not gonna tighten this up just yet. Then we can secure that down with the factory bolt, and we can tighten down our strut assembly and move to the other side.Next, we can tighten up this lower bolt here. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, you may need a 19-millimeter wrench as well, if the bolt head spins. Sometimes it does. Sometimes it does not. Next, we can move up top. Next, we can take a 16-millimeter socket, and we can tighten up those top bolts. So, after you've installed the strut on the other side, we'll be able to move the sway bar freely, so we can get it back into its place. But first, we're going to attach our spindle here. So, we're just gonna pop the spindle back up into place, so we can attach it to the upper control arm.So, once you have the spindle lined up with the upper control arm, you may have to loosen the upper control arm in order to get this to fit, or just drop down far enough in order for you to get a couple threads. You can raise up on the lower control arm. Just be mindful of your lift points when you're doing this. So, I'm just using a small pry bar just to pry down on the upper control arm, just so we can get a couple of threads on. Now, it might be helpful to loosen the upper control arm in order to get it to drop down far enough, or you could use a small pry bar like I just did. And then what we can do at this point is tighten down this nut here, and reattach our cotter pin, so it's set at the correct angle, and then we can button up our sway bar end link, as well as our outer tie rod. I'm gonna use that 19-millimeter swivel socket that we originally used to remove this. Then we can take our cotter pin, put that through, make sure that it hooks on part of that castle nut. All right. Then we can install our sway bar end link and our outer tie rod. Then, making sure that the sway bar end link is at the correct height, which it should be if the other side is attached, we can put that through our spindle, take our factory nut, thread that on, then we can tighten that up with a 17-millimeter socket.Next, we can take our outer tie rod, so we can line that up with our knuckle here. So now we can align our outer tie rod. You may have to move the knuckle itself back and forth in order to get this lined up. Then we can take our factory castle nut, thread that on. We can take a 19-millimeter socket and tighten that up. And once that's tightened up, you wanna make sure that the castle nut aligns with the hole on the stud there, on the ball joint, because we have to put in a new cotter pin. Now, I recommend to put in a new cotter pin, because the old ones do get pretty rusty, and they wear out. I'm just using a pair of needle nose pliers. When the cotter pin's through, you just wanna make sure that you bend back the longer part, just to make sure that it stays in place.Once that's in place, what we can do is reattach our brake lines. Thread that factory bolt in by hand. Tighten that up with a 12-millimeter socket. Next, we can attach our upper control arm brake line bracket and the one that's on the frame. I'm gonna do the control arm bracket first, using that 10-millimeter bolt that we originally used, and I'm also going to use a 10-millimeter socket to tighten that up. Next, we can attach the brake line bracket that's on the frame here. I'm gonna be using that 12-millimeter factory bolt and 12-millimeter socket. So, once you've finished up on this side, you would repeat the same process on the other side. Then we're gonna throw our tires back on, and then head to the rear.So now that we're in the rear, the first two things that you wanna do is take off the rear tires, and you also want to support the rear axle. Now, we will be dropping it down, so if you are at home on a jack and jack stands, I would recommend using a floor jack as well as jack stands to support that rear axle. Because I'm using a lift, I'll be using the pole jacks here. But our first step after those are taken care of is to disconnect our emergency brake line. So, over on the side, we are going to have a bracket that's connected to our leaf spring that's holding our e-brake line. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket to remove the bolt that's holding that bracket on. That'll give us a little bit of room to work with when it comes to lowering our axle. So, next we can remove the lower shock bolt. Now, we don't need to remove the shock. We just need to disconnect it from the axle, to drop our axle, or allow the axle to drop. So, I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter wrench and a 17-millimeter socket to remove that bolt. So, you might have to kind of play with the axle height in order to loosen that up or get it to wiggle out. Put a little pressure on it, then you can pull it out of the mount itself.Now that our shock is disconnected, what we can do is disconnect the U-bolts that are holding on our leaf spring. Now, this is where we are going to insert our block, so we want to remove the U-bolts completely. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter socket and my impact wrench to remove the hardware that's holding on our U-bolts. I also recommend to hit it with a little bit of PB B'laster, just because these can get pretty rusty. So, once the hardware and the bottom plate is removed, what we can do is just remove our U-bolts. What we can do at this point is lower down this side of our axle so we can separate the axle from the leaf spring, and we can wedge in our block for the rear here. So, just gonna mess with the height of the axle to just drop it down a little bit. That should separate there. There's an alignment dowel that's there as well. I would also just recommend to keep an eye on your harnesses and all the wires back here, as well as your brake lines, just to make sure that they're not being maxed out.But once we have the axle down low enough, what we're gonna do is take our lift block, and we're gonna slide that in place. Now, you wanna make sure that that alignment dowel seats into the perch there. It should sit flush on the axle. And then when we're raising it back up, you wanna make sure that the alignment dowel on the leaf spring is sitting inside that mounting location on the lift block. So you may have to give it a good push. So, in order to get the alignment dowel on the leaf spring to line up with the lift block, you may have to adjust where the leaf spring sits, so what I'm doing is just using a pry bar and prying on the lower shock mount, and just pushing a little bit on the leaf spring while raising the axle, just to make sure that that aligns. So it'll fall right into place, and you can lift it back up. And it should seat into the lift block, and then we can secure it down with the provided U-bolts.So at this point, what we can do is install our longer U-bolts over our leaf spring here. I'm just gonna put them in the same location that the factory ones were in, and they should sit in this little divot up at the top. There is an alignment plate up there. Then what we can do is take our bottom plate, making sure that the curve aligns with the bottom of our axle, and we can secure this into place. So, you may have to pinch the U-bolt in order to get those through, and it should kind of stay in place, just because the U-bolt is gonna be pushing outward, so it's gonna put a little bit of pressure on there. And then we can secure down our hardware, which is the flat washer and the provided nut. Now, I would like to mention that these U-bolts, because this is only a 1-inch spacer, they do hang down pretty far. I would just test with the tool that you have, which you'll need a 22-millimeter deep socket in order to tighten these down, just test to see if your socket bottoms out. If it does, I would recommend to trim these. Now, I do have to trim these in order to get these tightened down properly, so I'm actually gonna take this hardware off, and we're gonna head over to the circular saw in order to trim them and get them to the proper length.So, like I said, we are gonna have to trim these U-bolts in order for the bolt to be tightened down properly. Now, what I did was took my specific socket, measured out where it bottomed out, and then backed it off a little bit. So, I have it measured out for about 2 inches to be cut off the bottom of this U-bolt. It is going to depend on what you are tightening down the U-bolt with in order to get that measurement. I would just double-check the measurement before you go ahead and cut, but at the same time, you will be able to cut off more if you need to in the future. So, I'm just going to put this into my circular saw here. Once you have it all lined up, you can go ahead and cut.So now that we've trimmed our U-bolts, what we can do is put those in the same location that we did before when we were measuring them out. We can grab our bottom bracket, again, making sure that that curve is facing up toward the axle. And then we can take that bracket and line it up with the U-bolt. Again, you might have to pinch the U-bolt in order to get it to go through the bracket right away. So, once those are through the bottom bracket, what we can do is take our provided washer and nut, and thread that onto our U-bolt. Now, after cutting, if the nut does not thread on correctly right away, I would just recommend to take the angle grinder that we used before for the front skid plate reinforcement bracket, and just clean those edges up. Now, once those are all threaded on, and you have checked the top, make sure it's seated correctly, we can take a 22-millimeter socket and tighten these up in a star pattern or a crisscross pattern.So, at this point, what we can do is reconnect our shock. Now, you are gonna have to raise the axle in order to get it to line up, just because we added an inch of space here between the leaf spring and the axle. Just keep an eye on your lift points while you're doing that. If you cannot connect the shock on the lift or on a jack and jack stand, you can always do this while you're on the ground, but I have mine lined up pretty good here, so I'm gonna take the factory bolt and put that through, and we can tighten it up with a 17-millimeter socket and wrench.So, at this point, once both sides are complete, we can throw the tires back on and put the truck down on its own weight. Now, if you did loosen up that upper control arm in the front when putting in the spacer, you would wanna tighten it down on its own weight and torque everything down to factory spec, and I would also recommend to take your truck to get an alignment, and then you'll be all good to go.However, that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this, and always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Lift Height||2.00 Inch|
|Lift Kit Type||Spacer Lift|
|Lift Kit Max Tire Size||33 Inch|
|Lift Kit Includes Shocks||Shocks Not Included|
Fully Lifted for a More Aggressive Look, and Better Off-Road Experience. Increase your Toyota Tacoma’s ride height and boost its aggressiveness to the max. You can achieve this using the Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front/1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit. You’re not only improving your truck’s look, you also get a better off-road experience from this upgrade. This kit is highly recommended for 4WD trucks with independent front suspension, like your Tacoma. This kit will lower your front differential and reduce the excess wear on CV joints and axles by correcting the driveline angle changes caused by lifting the front of your truck.
High-Quality T6 Aluminum Construction. The Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit is made from high-quality billet aluminum blocks, CNC machined for a perfect fit. The rear lift block is made from aircraft-grade T6 aluminum, which is more durable than the common welded metal, capable of withstanding the stress of extreme driving conditions. They’re then coated with a hard-anodized finish for rust and corrosion protection. The kit is completed with high-grade hardware and extended OEM spec zinc-plated U-bolts.
Bolt-On Installation. The Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit features an easy bolt-on installation. You don’t need to weld, and it comes with all the necessary installation hardware. With rear shocks, installing this will require tab grinding. Installation can take just around 4 hours to complete, with intermediate mechanical skills required. Do note that an alignment is always recommended after altering the height of your vehicle.
Limited Lifetime Warranty. The Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit is warrantied to be free from manufacturer and material defect for as long as the original purchaser owns the vehicle. The lifetime warranty is non-transferable and proof of purchase may be requested upon redemption of warranty privileges.
Application. The Supreme Suspensions 2-Inch Front/1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit is designed to fit all 2005 to 2023 4WD Toyota Tacoma models with 6 lugs.
Supreme Suspensions TYTA05FK2010A
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(approx) 4 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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