(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys. I'm Eric with ExtremeTerrain. In this video, I'm gonna give you my review and install of this Rugged Ridge AmFib Low/High Mount Snorkel System, for all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs with the 2-liter or 3.6-liter gas engines. Now, this particular kit is really ideal for the Wrangler owner out there who is looking to wade into deeper waters with a snorkel system, but also wants the freedom to switch to a more subtle, low-profile appearance for daily driving.Now, if you truly wanna make your Jeep a go-anywhere vehicle, a snorkel system should be on your list of must-have modifications. Now, it is said that our Jeeps, as-is from the factory, can wade into waters up to 30 inches deep at slow speeds. Now, if you properly install this kit from Rugged Ridge, you should be able to almost double that depth with this snorkel system.Now, another advantage to taking in air from a much higher position above the ground is that when you're going down a dusty trail, that's gonna be less dirt and dust that's gonna be ingested into your vehicle's air filter. But regardless of the driving conditions that you're in, if you have the full snorkel system up, or you're operating the low-profile mode, you're basically operating with an intake that serves like a cold air intake, so you're getting the added benefits of getting more cold air into your intake, for better horsepower, throttle response, and overall performance from your Jeep.Now, working with this kit today, I took some measurements. Now, obviously, this is a lifted Jeep, and the specific height of your Jeep may be different as well. But I did take a measurement between roughly where the factory intake position is and where this upper intake position is when we have the full snorkel system installed, and it is a little over a 20-inch difference between the two. So you're getting that added height that you really want from the full snorkel system.Now, if you're a daily driver of your Jeep like I am, probably the single best feature of this kit is the fact that you can swap out the entire snorkel system for the low-profile plate that Rugged Ridge provides. You simply undo four bolts here and swap out the plates, and now your intake is right here. And that way, if you're driving at freeway speeds, your whole snorkel is not getting battered in the wind and being subjected to undue wear and tear.Now made from premium-grade ABS materials, this snorkel system from Rugged Ridge is currently priced around $700. And as far as the installation goes, guys, I'm giving it a very basic two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. There are some tricky aspects to this, and we're gonna be doing a very little bit of cutting, so we'll show you the tools you're gonna need in just a second. But if you budget about an hour of your time, you should have no problem getting this job done from start to finish. So let's go ahead and get started with our installation.All right, guys. Tools for this installation you're gonna need include a drill, and we're gonna be using a step bit, but if you have a 5/8-inch bit, that is the one you're gonna need. We're also gonna use a quarter-inch, 8-millimeter, 10-millimeter, and 21-millimeter sockets, a trim removal tool, an impact wrench, a 4-millimeter Allen socket, T15, T30, and T40 sockets, a body saw, and a tube of silicone.All right, guys, to get started on our installation of our new snorkel, we're gonna pop the hood on this Jeep and remove the front grille here so we can get some access to our factory airbox, do some disassembly, and making room for our new components for our snorkel system. So let's go ahead and get started. All right, guys. So, the first thing we need to do is we're gonna remove these pop clips here that are across the top of our grille. So, if you have a removal tool like I'm using here, they're very handy. If not, you could use a flathead screwdriver, probably work just as well. Every once in a while, you'll pop a center pin out like that one, and if that happens, you can just retrieve that piece and push it back into your base of pop clip. It's no big deal.All right, guys. Once you have those pop clips removed, or lock tabs, whatever you wanna call them, go ahead and pull on your grille, and there should just be a series of tabs along the bottom. If you give a firm yank on, they'll come loose. All right. So, we're gonna remove this rod right here that's going across the front of our radiator. To get at these bolts, you're gonna need a T30 Torx bit. All right, guys. We're gonna pull these two hoses out of our factory airbox. And what you need to do is you need to pinch this little gray tab right here, like that, and it'll kind of unlock the fitting so you can get it out. And just kind of push them up out of the way a little bit.All right. So, what we're working at here, guys, is we're gonna remove this part of the factory intake. So, to do that, we also need to unhook this wiring harness and pop this out as well. So just go ahead and pinch this here, back that out. [inaudible 00:06:26] this. All right. Remove these two bolts, using a 10-millimeter socket. All right. Now, loosen this clamp. You're gonna need either a flathead screwdriver or an 8-millimeter socket for that. And this clamp as well. And out here at the end, by the opening for the intake, again, go back to a 10-millimeter socket for this one. All right. Now, to lift this out, there are gonna be a couple of rubber grommets on the bottom side of this that are kind of holding this in place, kind of pinching on it. So just give it a firm pull up. All right, guys. There's another piece of the air duct right here. We're gonna undo these two bolts right here, using a T15 Torx bit. This piece of ducting right here is what we just loosened, so you should be able to just pull up on it there, because there is a grommet on the bottom here kind of holding it in place.All right, guys. We're moving to the part of the install where we're gonna be working right here, so I'm just gonna remove the antenna, just to keep it out of our way. Simple enough to do, just unscrews. I'm gonna remove the cowl piece right here. So, to do that, you can either use the Torx bit that's included in your Jeep kit, or if you have a socket like I have here, it's a T40 for these bolts. All right, guys. Now, go ahead and flap your hood back forward so you can get access to these two bolts. Again, T40 Torx bit. All right, guys. Now go ahead and remove this piece of foam insulation right here. It just kind of pulls out like that. All right. Underneath that piece we just removed, we have this bolt here we're gonna take out. It's a 10-millimeter.All right. The next step, we're gonna be doing a little bit of trimming, so if you have, like, a Dremel tool, or a body saw, or some other type of saw, that's gonna come in handy. And it's this plastic piece right here. And all we're gonna be doing is trimming a little bit off of this section right here to make a little bit more room because we're gonna have some piping that's gonna come through here, and we need to make room for it. All right, guys. Now grab this piece out of your kit. We're gonna slide it up in place, and then we'll reuse our factory hardware to bolt it down. All right, guys. And again, we're using a T40 Torx bit for these.All right, guys. Now we got our factory airbox out of our Jeep. I disconnected the rest of the piping that we had on here. Remember we loosened the clamp there, so that just pulls right off. We're gonna do some assembly work. That's why I have this up here on the table. And it's all gonna be geared towards kind of making our airbox just about air...or at least watertight. There are some holes that are in this box that we're gonna plug with some supplied hardware in the kit, and we're gonna be using some silicone type sealant on that as well. But first, in order to get some of that work done, we're gonna remove this section of the airbox off. The first thing we need to do is remove a bolt right here, using an 8-millimeter socket. All right, guys. There's a series of tabs here around the edges of this piece where it connects up to the main part of the airbox. So we're just gonna kind of use a screwdriver in here. All right, guys. Now we're gonna open up our airbox and get our air filter out. Now, to get at that, we're gonna undo four bolts here, and we're using an 8-millimeter socket.All right, guys. So, on the underside of our airbox here, Rugged Ridge indicates that they want you to drill a hole right here, using a 5/8 inch bit. I don't have that specific size bit, so we're gonna use a step bit to get us up to that size here. Now, at this point, we're gonna take these push rivets, or whatever you wanna call them, locking pins, and from the kit, these are included in the kit, you're gonna get at least four or five of them. We've got four holes here that are just in the factory airbox, and I think that's just so water can drain out of there on its own. We're gonna plug these up because we wanna make this as watertight as we can. So go ahead and get some silicone, and we're just gonna put a bead around the hole. All right. Now go ahead and put a bead around the hole we just drilled a moment ago. Now, take this fitting out of your kit. We're gonna thread it in.All right, guys. Now we're looking inside the box, the threaded end of that fitting we just popped in. Grab this plastic nut out of your kit. We're gonna thread that on. Now, I'm not gonna use a power tool for this, but if you grab a 21-millimeter socket, it'll fit on that, and it'll help you twist it down tight. Grab this silicone tube out of the kit, and we're gonna fit it on here. And the kit also includes these small clamps. Feed one of those on there. And then to tighten this up, we're gonna use a one-quarter-inch socket. You could also use a flat blade screwdriver in there if you want. Then go ahead and fit another clamp on. And this fitting out of your kit as well. This is just a valve that you'll be able to close, and if you think you've got water in your airbox, you'll be able to open this up and drain it out. Keeping it closed that way will help keep your airbox airtight. Or watertight, I should say. Okay. Go ahead and grab this rectangular-shaped gasket out of the kit and slide it over this. And we're gonna be taking this piece, and we're gonna be clicking it into our factory air box. All right. Now, go ahead and grab this rubber grommet here, and we're gonna pop it in this hole on the side of the new piece we just attached.All right, guys. Now we're gonna go ahead and reinstall our factory air filter in the top part of the airbox. We'll reuse our factory hardware here. Again, it's an 8-millimeter tool you'll need to screw these back in. All right, guys. Now, we reattached this section of our intake tubing, so we're gonna go ahead and get it into place. Get that slid on there. Okay. Go ahead and replug this back in. Now we're gonna put these bolts on. And again, we're gonna use a 10-mil socket to tighten these up. Reconnect your vacuum lines. All right. Now we're gonna go ahead and reinstall our support bar here. And this is a T30 Torx bit to tighten these down.All right. In this next section, guys, we're gonna be working with this section of tubing, as well as these two rubber connecting pieces. Now, I fully recommend for mounting these on that you get some, like, dish detergent, mix it up in some warm water, make a nice and slippery solution, because these are very snug to get on. You might have some difficulty without putting something like that on there. Dish soap is really good. I wouldn't necessarily recommend using, like, a solvent or PB B'laster or something like that, because I personally don't know how that's gonna react to rubber and plastic on there. It might be fine, but I think dish soap will get the job done, and it's a lot safer to handle. The only other comment I have is the part with the shorter tab here, as well as this little rectangular knob right here, kind of molded into the side, this is gonna be towards the airbox. And this section here with the longer end piece here is gonna be up towards the snorkel end. And obviously, the short rubber connector goes towards the air box, and the long one goes upstream. So we're gonna go ahead and get these fitted on. All right, guys. You probably saw there, this is quite snug. So I definitely recommend getting some of that soapy solution, not only on the plastic piece here, but also on the inside of the rubber connector. It's very, kind of, tacky, and just naturally sticky, I think because of the material. So get that on both sides. It's gonna make it a lot easier to get that on.All right. Now that we have both our rubber connectors on each end, go ahead and grab these long 5-inch clamps out of the kit. You're gonna have four of them. Put two on each end. And one thing to make sure you do is where the clamp tightens up, you want this hardware kind of down on the side here. You don't want it up on top. Otherwise, when the hood comes down, it could come down on top of that, and you could damage the underside of your hood, or the snorkel itself. So, once you have these situated where you want, go ahead and get some more soapy water, and we're gonna insert the upper end in first. All right. Once you have all these ends snugged up, go ahead and position your clamps. And to tighten these down, you're gonna need an 8-mil socket for these. All right. Go ahead and reattach this bolt here that's holding our airbox to the fender, and tighten it down using a 10-millimeter socket. All right, guys. Go ahead and reinstall your grille, and don't forget to reposition your pop clips.So, at this stage, depends on whether or not you're gonna mount the full snorkel kit, or if you're just gonna keep the low mount. Something that's really nice about this kit, it's relatively easy to switch back and forth in between. If you want the lower profile, all you need to do is grab this plate right here, and we're gonna mount it on, and I'll show you how to do that real quick. So, once you have this piece, go ahead and grab four of these short button head bolts and plastic washers out of the kit, and just get it lined up on top here. And then use a 4-millimeter Allen socket to tighten these down.All right. Now, to show you guys how to get the rest of the upright part of the snorkel installed, go ahead and grab this piece out of your kit, as well as this rubber gasket. It's molded and form-fitted, so there's only one way it can go in properly, and it should fit all the contours of this plastic piece. And once you have that on there, you're gonna have to grab this gasket, and it has an adhesive backing on it. Now, the part with the rounded ends here goes down as you're looking at it right now. And once you have that pressed into place, we can go ahead and mount it on.All right. Now, go ahead and set this in place up here. Then there's this gasket that's in your kit. It is a little bit uniquely shaped, so you have to figure out which way it sits properly. And if it doesn't seem to fit properly, just kind of twist it around 180 degrees, and you'll probably get it to fall right into place. So, then go ahead and grab your upright part of your snorkel, and then these long button head bolts with plastic washers will sit on top. It's a little tricky to get these threaded on, guys. Just make sure you're not crossing your threads. It's a little bit tricky because we've got several layers kind of sandwiched in here that we're trying to bolt down, and we can't exactly see with our eye where it's lining up, so you kind of have to feel for it and just make sure you're not crossing your threads.All right. Now, to tighten these down, guys, use a 4-millimeter Allen socket. And don't over-torque it. We've got plastic and metal here together, so if you torque it down too tight, you might crack your plastic. All right. Now, go ahead and put the top cap on your snorkel and have your black clamp that's in the kit already mounted on there, and you can have that oriented around the fitting around the backside there, so it's kind of out of sight, for a more clean look. And to tighten it up, use an 8-millimeter socket. And don't forget to reinstall your radio antenna.Okay, guys. That's a wrap on this review and install of this Rugged Ridge AmFib Low/High Mount Snorkel System, fitting all 2018 and later Jeep Wrangler JLs with the 2-liter or 3.6-liter gas engines. And for all things Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Enhanced Airflow Without Hydro-Locking. Reinforce your Jeep Wrangler’s engine performance and overall off-road capability by installing the AmFib Low/High Mount Snorkel System from Rugged Ridge. This snorkel system comes in a modular design that includes the low and high mount intakes. Using this snorkel gives you bolder confidence to tackle the deep river crossings, where the water level might rise over the hood line and make its way into your factory air box.
Long-Lasting Functionality. Rugged Ridge ensures that this AmFib Low/High Mount Snorkel System can durably handle the rigors that come with your Wrangler’s rugged lifestyle. This snorkel features a high-strength, premium ABS construction that is UV treated, weatherproof, and impact resistant. The modular configuration converts from low-mount intake to high-mount snorkel in minutes. Additionally, the OE-fit and intrinsic styling blend well with your JL’s factory trim.
Straightforward Installation. This AmFib Low/High-Mount Snorkel System features a bolt-on installation that requires no cutting to the exterior body parts. The installation completes with light-to-moderate mechanical skills.
Limited Warranty. Rugged Ridge offers a 5-year limited warranty that covers factory defects in materials and workmanship of this AmFib Low/High Mount Snorkel System. This warranty comes with exclusions; please check the full warranty policy for complete details.
Application. The Rugged Ridge AmFib Low/High-Mount Snorkel System fits all 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL models.
Rugged Ridge 17756.31
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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