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Rough Country 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted Struts and Premium N3 Shocks (07-21 4WD Tundra, Excluding TRD Pro)

Item TU2654
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. I'm Eric with ExtremeTerrain. In this video, we're gonna do a review and install of this Rough Country 3.5-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted Struts and Premium N3 Shocks, for all 2007 and later four-wheel drive Tundras, except the TRD Pro edition. Now, this kit from Rough Country is really ideal for the Tundra owner out there who is maybe looking to do some off-roading with their Tundra. Not only you're gonna get added ground clearance, but you're gonna have a more sophisticated setup that's gonna allow for better handling characteristics and flexibility when you're out there on uneven terrain. Now, lift kits can range from the very basic spacer blocks to the more sophisticated setups that replace a lot of components, and this kit from Rough Country definitely falls into that latter category. We're gonna be replacing our control arms, front struts, rear shocks. We're also gonna be adding spacer blocks to the rear, and a number of other spacer blocks to the front end, all of which are gonna give you a premium lift from Rough Country.Now, not only are all these components made from top quality, the kit is also very comprehensive. It's gonna give you everything you need to properly set up your truck for this 3.5-inch lift for extreme terrain running. Now, what I mean by that is it includes spacer blocks, not only for your bump stops, but also for your front differential as well. It's gonna correct the CV axle angle, to prevent any adverse conditions when you're out there putting a lot of torque to the front end. Now, also supporting that front end geometry is gonna be the replacement of the upper control arms. That's gonna allow better flexibility, without any weird steering situations coming into play, as well as on the rear end, you're also gonna have these tapered spacer blocks that are gonna correct the pinion angle of your rear axle, so that when we're extending it down, that 3.5 inches of added lift, you're not gonna have anything funky going on from the driveshaft to your rear axle.Now, whether you're still driving on the highway or you're taking your truck off-road, that premium ride quality is really gonna come through with the N3 shock design that goes into both the front struts and the rear shocks. That includes 10-stage variable valving, and a nitrogen gas charge, giving you that premium ride quality. Now, price, right around $1,000. This Rough Country kit is very aggressively priced, considering the overhaul that you're getting, and all the components that you're replacing on your truck, and that added right height, giving you better ground clearance, and the ability to add larger tires to your truck. Now, the largest tire you can run with this kit is a 33-inch. You will have to do some minor plastic trimming, especially if you're running a larger tread pattern, like a mud terrain.Now, as far as the installation goes, guys, I'm giving it a very solid three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. This kit is not for the faint of heart. There's a lot of work that's gonna go into this, and some tricky aspects to this installation. Of course, follow along with us as we do it, and I'll do my best to show you how you can get this done at home. But, you're gonna need a substantial amount of tools, and maybe a couple of things you might not have in your tool chest. We're gonna take a look at those in just a second. And of course, as we're going along, make sure you're following all the torque specifications from both Rough Country and from Toyota. So, let's go ahead and get started.All right, guys. Tools you're gonna need for this installation include an electric impact wrench, a pneumatic impact wrench, needle nose pliers, a set of regular pliers, a hammer, an extension, a small flathead screwdriver, a swivel socket, a whole range of sockets ranging from 10-millimeter all the way up to 24-millimeter, couple of hand socket wrenches, 1/2, 17-mill, 19-mill, 22-mill, and a couple of ratcheting wrenches, ranging from 16-millimeter to 19-millimeter, a breaker bar, and a pair of pry bars.All right, guys. Now, once you have your truck safely lifted and supported and tested, make sure it's not gonna move on you. We're gonna go ahead and get started. Basically, all we're gonna do is just the bare minimum we need to do to get components out of the way, so we can remove our strut and go from there. So, go ahead and grab a 19-mill socket and let's get started. All right, guys. Now, with your 19-mill socket, we're gonna go ahead and remove this bolt here, that's part of our sway bar end link. All right, guys. Now we're gonna have to disconnect our ball joint here, but before we can do that, you gotta remove this cotter pin, so go ahead and grab some needle-nose pliers.All right, guys. Now you need a 19-millimeter socket for the castle nut here, for your upper ball joint. And once you have that loosened, we're not gonna remove it all the way. You want it a few threads on, because we're gonna tap right here with a hammer and see if we can get our ball joint to come loose. All right, guys. Now, go ahead and grab a pry bar. We're gonna stick it in underneath the hinge pin for our upper control arm, and we're gonna pull down on this to relieve the tension here, so we can just kind of take the nut off by hand. All right, guys. Now you have four 14-millimeter nuts that we're gonna take off the top here, these studs that are holding the top part of our strut in place. These two back ones are probably gonna be hard for you to see. If you're blessed with a relatively clean truck like we are, once you break them loose, you should be able to spin them off by hand.All right, guys. Now we're gonna undo the clamp up here that's holding our brake line to the upper control arm, just to give ourselves a little bit of slack. Use a 10-millimeter socket for this. All right, guys. Now, to get our skid plate off, first, we're gonna go after this locking clip right here, and these two bolts. So, just have a flathead screwdriver, pull this one out. Now, for these two bolts, you're gonna need a 10-millimeter socket. All right, guys. Now we have three more bolts. They're kind of recessed up in these holes, here and here, and one on the back. You're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket for those. All right, guys. Now, last, once you have all that hardware removed, go ahead and push up on the front and to the left. Couple of recessed hooks up top there, that are kind of snagging the front end of your skid plate on. All right, guys. Now we're gonna use a 24-mill socket here, just to loosen up this nut, and we're gonna do the same thing for the other bolt that's holding the bottom of our control arm to the frame. We're just gonna loosen them. We don't wanna remove them.All right, guys. Now we're gonna remove this nut here that's the bolt that's holding in the bottom of our strut to the control arm. You're gonna need a 22-millimeter socket for this. All right, guys. Now, go ahead and remove the bolt. All right, guys. Now we have that lower bolt out. You should be able to lift the strut up a little bit, to get it unseated down below, drop it down a little bit, and we're gonna pivot it out the top and pull it out. All right. So, we're gonna put the spacer blocks in here between our sway bar bracket here and the frame mount. So, we're gonna loosen up the bolts on the other side. We've done that already. Don't wanna take them out completely on the other side. Just loosen them. We're gonna take these bolts out, slide the block in there. And there are new bolts that come in the kit that we're gonna reinstall with. And we just got that started by hand, a couple of turns, a couple of threads, just to hold it up. And then you can go ahead and repeat this on the other side before we tighten it up.All right. Now, to go after our spacers here for our differential mounts, you're gonna need a 19-millimeter socket here, and you're also gonna need a 19-millimeter wrench up top, because it's basically a loose nut that is securing the other end of this bolt here. Unfortunately, there isn't, like, a captured nut or a threaded piece as part of the framing that would make this a little bit simpler. But if you come up here, kind of parallel to your steering linkage, you can slide the wrench in up here on top of the frame rail. And once you get it on the nut, just kind of hold it in place with one hand, and undo this bolt here. Now, as you can see here, I have pole jacks supporting our differential mounts here. You're gonna need to do that because once you undo both of these, it's gonna wanna drop considerably. Even though you still have a third point of attachment, you don't wanna put too much stress on over there. Now, for this one, guys, this one's really tight. You're gonna wanna take your wrench and kind of, from the front, go over top of the frame rail. Now, if you reach your hand in back behind the frame rail, you'll be able to put your fingertips on that nut back there and kind of guide your wrench in, so you have a bite on it there. And go ahead and take your impact wrench and undo this bolt.All right, guys. Now, however you have this supported, go ahead and lower it down. You're gonna have to do it evenly. You're not gonna be able to do it one at a time. And we just wanna lower it just far enough to get our spacers in there, which are about an inch. All right. Now, go ahead and slide it up in there, guys, and get one of the new bolts out of the kit. They're gonna be slightly longer, obviously. We're gonna reuse these black large washers that came out with our factory bolts. All right, guys. Now, before we start tightening this up or raising this side up at all, you're gonna wanna get the spacer in on the other side, because like I said, you kind of have to do this evenly. All right. Now, this side's a little bit tighter, mainly because we have that third point of contact that we haven't really done anything with, keeping it kind of tight, but you should be able to get it down just enough. Get your other spacer in here, and get the other bolts started.All right, guys. Now, we adjusted the pole jacks to get them kind of even up here, and we've got our bolt most of the way up. Gets a little snug. If you wanna give it a tap with a mallet. Basically what we're looking for is you can feel back here with your fingers, there's, like, a little raised portion on the top of the frame rail, where the hole...and you can just feel it's kind of flush. So I'm gonna give this a couple more taps, so that we have some threads exposed, and we can start the nut that comes with the kit on there. Now, I check that, and I can feel the bolt protruding through there, so we're gonna go ahead and get it started. All right, guys. Now we have the nut started on the driver's side mount. It's very tight up in here. I had to do it with my fingertips, so give yourself some patience while you're doing this, getting that nut started up top there. You're gonna need a 22-millimeter crescent wrench to secure that nut, and a 21-millimeter socket to tighten up these bolts.All right. Now we're gonna tighten up the passenger side as well. All right, guys. Now we're gonna go and remove our front control arm, or upper control arm here. You're gonna need to get access to the bolt, so go ahead and grab either a flat blade screwdriver, or a trim removal tool if you have one, and we're just gonna lower our front splash guard here. Just let that hang down. Now we can access the bolt here. You're gonna need a breaker bar or a tool with a lot of leverage to get this off, and you're also gonna need 22-millimeter socket on both sides. All right, guys. Now I have a 22-millimeter crescent on this side, and I get my breaker bar with socket on this side. All right. Broke that loose. It's a little bit tight in here, too, because you have this cable. Just kind of has a little bit of slack. You can push it back. All right, guys. Now, the tricky part here, we're gonna have to walk this bolt forward, and it's probably gonna have to go between this cable here and the inside of our wheel well liner. But get a pry bar, or something with some leverage here, and pry this forward. Now, you're not gonna have enough room to walk this washer with it, so keep that tucked back, and just work on the bolt here.All right, guys. Now, the two major components that we are replacing on the front end of our truck here, we have, off of our truck, the factory parts, and I wanted to throw them up here on the table, give you a real quick visual comparison between our factory parts and our new stuff from Rough Country. Now, really, the main differences you're gonna see is you're getting much more stout, sturdy stuff from Rough Country. The strut tower is a couple of inches longer than the factory one. That's where most of your height's gonna be coming from, from the front end. And the upper control arm, you're gonna notice is quite a bit beefier. It's several pounds heavier than your factory piece, and that is the solid tubular steel, compared to our factory arm, that is not quite solid tubular steel like this. It's a little bit hollowed out. I can stick my fingers in there. It's kind of like steel that's kind of bent around and molded. I don't really know the technical term for that, but as you can see, when you compare it, I can get my finger down on this groove here. It's not a solid bar like you have with the new piece from Rough Country.So, other than that, that's really what we're getting here, is the added ride height, and a little bit better ride quality out of our Rough Country kit. So, let's go ahead. We're gonna throw some grease into the ball joint here for the control arm, and we're gonna mount it in the truck. All right, guys. Now we're gonna put spacers in our bump stops. So, to get these bump stops, they basically just unscrew out, but you're gonna need nice, wide set of pliers, preferably longer-handle ones like this, that have more leverage to them. Once you get that loosened, they should come right out, unless you have a higher-mileage truck with some corrosion on here, in which case you're gonna wanna prep it with some WD-40 or PB B'laster or something like that. So, it comes out like that. I'm gonna take one of these new spacers from the kit and just thread it on. It's gonna be a little tighter going back on, because we have paint on the threads of our new spacers. Get it on there as far as you can by hand.All right, guys. Now, before we can get our upper control arm installed, we need to put some grease in the ball joint fitting. So, go ahead and get a small screwdriver. Just pop this cover up, and then we'll have a grease fitting underneath there. And as you can maybe see, there's a little bit of movement in our boot there. It's letting us know we're getting filled up with grease in there. All right, guys. Now, something you might wanna try here is holding the bolt up here, getting it kind of set, and then bringing the control arm up. All right. Kind of got it started in there with my fingers. Again, keep the washer up against the hinge point for your control arm, because you don't have any room for it to the left. Guys, now go ahead and grab your factory washer we took off, and the nut.All right. We'll go ahead and get these tightened down. And again, we're using 22-millimeter on both sides. And with this one, you guys, you're gonna wanna make sure you torque it to spec. All right, guys. Now we're gonna put our new Rough Country strut into place. To get proper alignment or fitment up into the bracket up there, look for the word "Out," with an arrow pointing outward. This would be the side that's facing you once you put it inside. There's also a little nub here on the black rubber gasket here that goes between this top plate and your spring. All right. Now, use the nuts that were provided in the Rough Country kit. We're gonna get them started. All right, guys. Now, using my floor jack, I'm gonna lift up on the lower control arm a little bit, and we're gonna try and get our alignment for the lower end of the strut a bit more closely aligned for where our bolt's gonna go through to attach it to the lower control arm.Now, we're pretty close, guys. I'm just gonna use a little pry bar here to kinda get the last little bit of alignment here. We'll get the nut on the lower strut bolt. We'll tighten that up in a second. All right, guys. Now we're gonna lift up a little bit more, so we can start working on the alignment of our sway bar, and also give us some more threads up top for the studs on the top of the strut. All right. Now, we lift it up, guys, you can see how much more threading we have from where I started these nuts by hand. So, go ahead, cinch them down even further. Then use a 15-millimeter wrench to tighten these down.All right, guys. Now, I'm kind of bracing this steering knuckle with my knee. Get a pry bar up there, and we're gonna pull down, try and get our ball joint mounted in here. We're using a new castle nut and washer provided in the kit. All right, guys. Now we're gonna tighten this up here on our ball joint. We used a 19 on our factory stuff. The new castle nut here from Rough Country's gonna take a 22-millimeter socket. All right. Get a new cotter pin from the kit. All right, guys. Now, let's tighten up the lower strut bolt. You need a 22-millimeter here. All right, guys. Now we're gonna reconnect the brackets for our brake lines. Now, you have a threaded post here on your Rough Country control arm. So grab one of these 11-millimeter lock nuts out of the kit and tighten it down. All right. I'll do this lower bracket. We're just gonna reuse our factory bolt here. And this one's a 12-millimeter.All right, guys. Now, at this point, we've pretty much installed everything we can up here on the driver's side front. Now, before we go, a couple of last steps we're gonna do is we're gonna reconnect everything having to do with the sway bar. But before we do that, everything we just did here on the driver's side, go ahead and repeat that on the passenger side. We don't wanna tighten up anything with the sway bar on this side, because it's all connected to the passenger side. It might make things tighter and a little bit more difficult to work over there. So, get yourself up to this point on the passenger's side, and we'll come back and cinch up our sway bar, and tighten up our lower control arm bolts. All right, guys. Now we're gonna reinstall the bolt for our sway bar end link. I'm gonna use two pry bars here, just to kind of line it up. And I've got a friend here who's gonna be my third hand. All right. With a 19-millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten up our factory bolt here. All right. Now that we have our end link tightened up, go ahead and tighten up your mounts right here, where the sway bar mounts to your frame. Again, this is a 19-millimeter socket on here. And then repeat that on the other side.All right, guys. Now we're gonna tighten up our lower control arm bolts, using 24-millimeter tools. And repeat that on the passenger side. All right, guys. Now, go ahead and slide your skid plate up between the plastic trim piece. It should hang there. All right, guys. I have a short 13-millimeter socket. I'm gonna seat the bolt and washer in there, and run it up inside like this. And put your spacer on. And just get it started a couple threads, so we can do the other two out on the sides. All right. Now, here, we're on the right side, doing the same thing, getting our bolt started up in there. Slide the spacer up our little hole. And repeat that on the other side. And go ahead and tighten them down. All right. Replace these screws at the front here, using a 10-millimeter socket, and then install your pop clip.Okay. So now, we're at the back of the truck. We're gonna do what we need to do for the rear lift part of this kit. Basically, we're gonna be swapping out our factory shocks for some new Rough Country premium N3 shocks. We're also gonna be putting the lift block in between the axle and the leaf springs, and we also have some brake line, kind of, relocation brackets that are basically gonna give us a little bit of extra room, because once we add the lift, and the axle goes down a little bit, those brake lines are gonna become really tight, and you don't want that going down the road, for obvious reasons. So, once we put those relocation brackets in there, give us a little bit more slack. So that's pretty much sums up what we're gonna be replacing here in the back end. So, let's start at the shock absorber.All right, guys. To get the bottom bolt out, you're gonna need a 17-millimeter tool on both sides. Now, the bolt's gonna be under tension for right now, so it's fine to leave it where it is. And we're gonna work at the top end, and that'll relieve some of that pressure. Now, to undo the upper end here, guys, you're gonna need a 17-millimeter wrench up here on the nut, and you're gonna need 19-millimeter wrench here to kind of stabilize the shaft so it doesn't twist as you're undoing the nut. So, get your 19-mill crescent on there. I have a ratcheting wrench, which is a great tool for this job. That bolt off, take off the top bushing, and that'll allow us to lift up on the shock here and then we can... Now that we won't have any pressure on that lower bolt, we can get that out.All right. Now that we have our factory shock off the truck, I wanted to put her up here on the table, give you a quick side-by-side comparison. Not a whole lot of difference to really point out here, other than the fact that our new premium N3 shock from Rough Country is a little bit longer. Obviously, you're gonna need that with the lift, and you might be noticing a huge difference if you are installing this kit on a higher mileage truck. Our truck here only has about 18,000, 19,000 miles on it, so the components are still relatively fresh. Like the bushings up top here, they still look like they're in really good condition. However, if you're pushing 60,000, 70,000, 80,000 miles on your truck, these might start looking pretty worn out and tired. Obviously, you're getting fresh new bushings with the new shock, so let's go ahead and get them mounted on the truck.All right, guys. Now we're gonna take out the bolts for these four mounting points for our brake lines. We're gonna put extension brackets on these. So let's do that before we droop the axle. And I'm using a 12-millimeter socket for these. All right. You're gonna have one of these on each side. So, again, 12-millimeter socket. Let's go ahead and do that on the other side as well. And if I didn't mention it already, go ahead and remove the shock absorber from the passenger side. Now we're gonna go ahead and take out the nuts that are holding on our U-bolts, this bracket here, that are securing our axle to the leaf springs. And you're gonna need a 19-millimeter socket for this. And go ahead and remove your factory U-bolts.All right, guys. Now, obviously, before we did all that with the U-bolts and their nuts, you wanna make sure that your axle is supported. We have pole jacks up here because our truck is up on a lift. If you're doing this at home and your truck's on jack stands, a good place to have your floor jack is right here underneath the center of the rear axle, or underneath the differential, and that way you can lower it using the floor jack, and it's nice and uniform. With pole jacks, you have to go back and forth a little bit because you wanna drop it evenly. And we only wanna drop it just far enough so that we can fit our spacer blocks between the axle and the leaf spring. All right, guys. Now we're gonna slide our spacer blocks in here. Just something to point out is that one end of the spacer block is a little bit shorter than the other. The shorter end is the one you want towards the front, and that's in order to maintain proper pinion angle for your rear axle. And then go ahead and get the block in on the other side. All right. Once you have both blocks in, go ahead, start raising your axle. And you wanna make sure that the pin underneath the leaf spring goes into place. And if you need to kind of wiggle the axle back and forth a little bit, you should have a little bit of play in order to do that.All right, guys. Once you have your axle raised up so it's nice and snug up against the spacer block and your leaf spring, go ahead and grab the new U-bolts out of the kit, and drop them into place. And you should be able to get this bracket up on there. Might have to pinch the U-bolts a little bit. And because there's that tension because the U-bolt is kind of spreading outward a little bit, you pinch it in, the bracket will stay in place once you have it mounted up. Go ahead and get the lock washer, or flat washer and lock nuts that are included in the kit started by hand. Because they're lock nuts, you're only gonna be able to get them on so far by hand. All right. Now, to tighten up the new hardware, you're gonna need a 22-millimeter socket. And the rule of thumb here, guys, is you're gonna wanna exercise good trigger control. You don't wanna cinch up one side too tightly. You want them nice and even. So you want the same amount of bolt sticking through, so that this goes up nice and straight and even on both sides. And go in a cross pattern, just like you would when you're putting your tires back on your car.All right, guys. So now we're gonna do our brake line relocation brackets. Go ahead and grab one of these. We're at the driver side E-brake, out here on the end of the axle. Go ahead and grab the factory nut, and tighten it down with a 12-mill socket. All right, guys. Now, go ahead and flip the bracket back down, and we're gonna kind of push it up into place here. And go ahead and grab a bolt and nut from the kit, and tighten it down. You can use either a 13-millimeter or 1/2-inch on each side. And then repeat this on the other side. All right. Now, grab this bracket out of your kit. We're going to mount it here, because as you can see, there's no way we're gonna reconnect that to its factory mounting point. There'd be too much tension, and I'm kind of pulling down on this right now. So that's what we're looking to alleviate with these relocation brackets. So, just grab your factory bolt. We'll get that started there, and then we can bring this down. And using one of these bolts from the kit... That's a lock nut right there, so we're gonna have to get a tool and we'll tighten these down.All right. Now, it's a 12-millimeter for your factory bolt down here. And you can use either a 13-mill socket or a 1/2-inch socket for the hardware included in the kit. And that's on both sides, both the nut and the bolt. All right. Now we're gonna do this one on top of the differential here. Again, using our factory bolt to mount this bracket, it's kind of like S-shaped bracket, to the differential itself. And then grab a nut and bolt from the kit. All right. Now, to do these down here, guys, again, we're going with these clamps here. Get it behind the upper tab, and then grab your factory bolt and a new bolt from the kit, a nut, then tighten it down. All right. And we'll just do the same thing, but on the right side. And don't forget to tighten up the bottom one here.All right, guys. Now, with our new shocks from Rough Country, a couple things I wanna point out. We're gonna have all new hardware up at the top here where it mounts up at the top. Now, you're gonna wanna grab one of these, kind of, not completely flat, but close to flat plates for there, and then get your rubber bushing. And then this one here that's shaped like that, with the rubber bushing that fits inside of it, with the kind of the same shape on the bottom, goes on top, like this. And that's basically gonna be the order of how they go. Now, you're gonna have this off when we put this up into place. This is gonna be below the shock mount on the frame, and then this goes up top, and obviously, we're gonna have just enough threads sticking through there so we can grab the new nut and stick it on there, and tighten that down once it's up and in. And, of course, obviously, we're gonna have to bolt it using the factory bolt down below. So let's go ahead and get them mounted up.All right, guys. So, we have these two parts started up top here. Go ahead and put it up into place above. And then line this up below, and we use our factory bolt and nut down here. All right. Now, get this piece on first, [inaudible 00:49:34] bushing that fits inside of it. All right, guys. Now you're gonna need an 18-mill tool up here. I've got a ratcheting wrench, which is perfect for this kind of job, or you could use a regular crescent wrench. All right. Now, to tighten up down here, remember it's 17 millimeters on both sides. Then repeat this for the passenger side.All right, guys. That pretty much wraps up this installation. Now, a couple of things we always wanna remind our viewers of is that we always recommend you get an alignment done after having any suspension or steering work done on your truck or vehicle. Also make sure you're torquing all of the nuts and bolts to spec, either the specs provided by Rough Country, or the specs specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle itself, Toyota. And one last thing I wanna call out is, with any time we're putting on a lift kit and suspension components, it's recommended that within 300 miles to 500 miles, go around and check all the fittings, and make sure none of the nuts or bolts have come loose during that time. And this is not a permanent installation on this vehicle, so we did not use any Loctite or anything like that, although I recommend using that on the nuts and bolt fittings that come in the lift kit.So, that pretty much wraps up this review and install of this Rough Country 3.5-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted Struts and Premium N3 Shocks, for all '07 and later Toyota Tundra four-wheel drives, except the TRD Pro Edition. For all things Tundra, keep it here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted Struts and Shocks
      • Raises Overall Ground Clearance by 3.50 Inches
      • Improves On and Off-Road Damping
      • Utilizes (2) Rear Premium N3 Shocks
      • Tubular Upper Control Arms
      • Fabricated Lift Blocks Included
      • Includes Front Strut Extensions
      • Accommodates Larger Tires
      • Advanced Mechanical Expertise
      • Lifetime Replacement Warranty
      • Fits 2007-2021 Toyota Tundra Models, Excluding TRD Pro


      Increased Ride Height, Handling, and Style. Command the streets and trails in your Toyota Tundra with the help of Rough Country’s 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted Struts and Premium N3 Shocks. Increasing your vehicle’s ride height by 3.50 inches will not only let you tower over other vehicles, but it’ll also allow you to install larger wheels and tires. What’s more, it comes with high-quality components that enhance the truck’s handling and road damping performance, giving you the confidence you need to dominate the harsh terrains.

      Boasts Premium N3 Shocks. Rough Country’s Premium N3 Shocks are the perfect upgrades that offer an all-around road damping performance. Designed with a 10-stage variable valving, these high-pressure, nitrogen-charged shocks are capable of making your highway drives smoother while keeping up with the aggressive nature of extreme off-roading.

      Tubular Control Arms. The included high-quality, tubular Upper Control Arms with Clevite rubber bushings were designed to make alignment adjustments easier. These Control Arms are designed to promote a factory-like geometry by keeping the ball joint at optimum angles after lifting. This design allows for an improved, greater range of motion from the ball-joint, with less stress, wear and tear.

      Fabricated Lift Blocks.
      Fabricated lift blocks offer a stronger, more reliable performance over their cast counterparts. As a result, you can rest assured that your truck’s rear will maintain its new height no matter how rugged the driving conditions get.

      Covered by a Lifetime Replacement Warranty. A lifetime replacement warranty comes with every Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit purchased. Interested to learn more about the warranty’s terms and conditions? Then visit Rough Country’s website or contact customer support.

      Application. Rough Country’s 3.50-Inch Bolt-On Suspension Lift Kit with Lifted Struts and Premium N3 Shocks fits 2007-2021 Toyota Tundra models, excluding TRD Pro variants.



      Rough Country 76831

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Rear Shocks
      • (2) Control Arms
      • (2) Front Strut Extensions
      • (2) Rear Blocks
      • (4) U-Bolts
      • (4) Bumpstop Spacers
      • Installation Hardware

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Tundra

        • 4.0L V6 - 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14
        • 4.6L V8 - 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19
        • 4.7L V8 - 07, 08, 09
        • 5.7L V8 - 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21