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Mammoth 2.50-Inch Front Leveling Kit (05-23 6-Lug Tacoma)

Item TT6067
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$49.99 (pair)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. So, today we're checking out the Mammoth 2.5-Inch Front Leveling Kit, fitting all 2005 and newer 6-Lug Toyota Tacomas. So, if you're in search of a very easy and a very affordable way to add some extra height to the front end of your truck, open up some room inside the wheel well for some more aggressive tires, and overall it is going to eliminate that rake, this option by Mammoth is gonna be a great choice to take a look into. When it comes to what tire you can fit with this kit, I would recommend a 31-inch tire, either a stock tire or a more aggressive 31. You won't need to do any modifications to fit a more aggressive 31-inch tire and you'll have plenty of clearance. Now, as for 33-inch tires, you will need to make modifications to fit those, otherwise, you will have rubbing issues. And I would recommend that if you are running 33s, that you only stay on the road since clearance will be tight. Now, this option is gonna come with two spacers for the front strut assembly that's gonna do just that.So, this is gonna add ground clearance. If you're looking to take your truck off-road, even on some lighter trails, this is gonna do a really good job at giving it a little bit of some height. Now, these I would like to mention are roughly going to measure out to one and a quarter of an inch. Now, with the suspension geometry as well as the spring compression after the install, that's what's going to measure out to 2.5 inches. So, I would just keep that in mind when looking at the spacers themselves. However, those 2.5 inches are going to do a lot as far as the benefits, the performance, and the aesthetics are concerned with a leveling kit. The spacers themselves are gonna be made of a CNC machined billet aluminum. So, you can ensure that these are going to hold up for the long run in the lifespan of your truck, and that's gonna have a nice black anodized finish on top that's going to protect the aluminum underneath from any corrosion and of course increase that lifespan.Now, when it comes to pricing, this is going to be a very affordable leveling kit coming in at roughly $75. Now, when we take a look at some other choices on the page, usually lift kits or leveling kits are going to vary in price depending on the components that are included in the kit. Now, as you can see, this is a pretty bare-bones kit. This is great for somebody who does not want to do really a lot when it comes to their suspension, they're looking for just a little bit of a lift and one of the easiest ways to do so. Now, some more expensive options are usually just going to include some more components. They may have accommodating components to accommodate for that added lift height. They may come with a block for the rear, instead of just the front. And then some of the more expensive kits are usually gonna come with control arms and some extra components, again, to accommodate for that added height. So, if you are looking for a pretty bare-bones kit, if you're looking to keep it on the budget-friendly side, then this is definitely gonna be a great choice for you.When it comes to install, I'm gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. You will need a little bit of mechanical know-how to get the job done. However, it's nothing you can't get done in your driveway in about four hours with some very basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were a pry bar, a breaker bar, a hammer, a dead blow, a pneumatic impact wrench, PB Blaster, a punch, a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a trim removal tool, a 19-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 14-millimeter wrench, a 3-inch extension, a 19-millimeter deep socket, swivel socket, and cello socket, 17-millimeter, 16-millimeter, 14-millimeter, 12-millimeter, and 10-millimeter socket, 6-millimeter Allen socket, a pair of needlenose pliers and an electric impact wrench. So, the first step of our install is to get the truck up in the air and supported. Now, I have it on a lift here but if you are at home you can use a jack and jack stands for this install. And then our next step is to take off our front tire.Now, I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket and my spline key. However, the tool that you use may depend on what lug nut size that you have. So, after the tire is off, what we're gonna do at this point is address our brake lines. There's gonna be a brake line bracket on the spindle, one on the frame, and then we're gonna have one on the upper control arm. For this step, you're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter socket. So, I'm gonna remove the bracket on the spindle first using a 12-millimeter socket. Now, I'm also using a 3-inch extension to give myself a little bit of room next to this brake caliper here. Once that's removed, you're gonna take out the little hook that's in the spindle and we're gonna just push it back. This is going to allow us to remove our spindle from this upper control arm and not have our brake lines affected, stressed out, or taut in the meantime. We wanna keep those protected just because we don't want to break them. We would have to replace them if so.Next, we're gonna remove the brake line bracket on the frame. I'm also gonna use that 12-millimeter socket and the 3-inch extension. So, what we're gonna do now is remove the brake line from our upper control arm. Now, what I'm gonna do is remove the bracket as a whole, but you can bend back these tabs and remove the line from there. I just find it easier to just remove the whole bracket. So, I'm using a 10-millimeter socket, I'm just gonna take out that bolt. So, what we're gonna do at this point is remove the cotter pin in the outer tie rod. We do need to disconnect this from the knuckle or the spindle here in order to get our strut out. So, I'm gonna take a pair of needlenose pliers. I also sprayed this with PB Blaster just to loosen that up, but I'm gonna take that pair of needlenose pliers and I'm going to go ahead and remove that cotter pin. What we're gonna do at this point is remove the castle nut up top. I'm going to be using a 19-millimeter socket to remove that nut there.So, the outer tie rod might not drop out right away. What we're gonna do at this point is take the castle nut and thread that on a couple of threads. And then we're gonna take a hammer and just hit the side of the knuckle or the side of the spindle here and it should release that ball joint. So now that the ball joint, released from the knuckle here, what we're gonna do is just remove it completely. Thread that back on because we'll be reattaching that a little bit later. And then we can disconnect our sway bar. What we're gonna do next is remove the sway bar end link from our spindle. I'm gonna be using a 17-millimeter socket and we're gonna remove this nut. So, if you were unable to get the hardware for the sway bar end link off with a 17-millimeter socket and that impact wrench, what you can do is remove it with a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a ratchet, and a 17-millimeter wrench. This is just going to allow you to keep the ball joint still while you are removing that hardware. If you do use an impact wrench, sometimes that can move and even if you put pressure on it, sometimes it just keeps spinning.So, this is an alternative method that works pretty well. It just takes a little bit longer. So, I'm gonna use that 17-millimeter wrench. I'm gonna put that on the nut side. And same with the 6-millimeter Allen socket. Once that's removed, we'll be able to remove our sway bar from our spindle. So, the sway bar end link wanted to stay in the spindle. In order to get it out, what I'm gonna do is just take a punch and we're gonna put that where we put the 6-millimeter Allen socket. I'm also gonna take a dead blow and we're gonna just tap that out. So, now what we're gonna do is remove the upper control arm ball joint from our spindle here. Now, we need to remove this cotter pin. I'm gonna use the same pair of needlenose pliers that I used before. After the cotter pin is removed, we're gonna remove the castle nut. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter swivel socket. So, what I'm gonna do is take that completely off, then I'm gonna thread it back on just a couple of threads. Again, we have to tap the ball joint out of the spindle because the ball joint is tapered. So, it usually just sticks there like it did with the other two. So again, we're gonna have to take a ball-peen hammer and tap that out of the spindle.Now the nut there is gonna catch it. That's why we threaded it on a little bit. There we go. Once that pops out of place, what we're gonna do is continue to remove that 19-millimeter nut. And now when we do this, the spindle is going to fall. Just make sure that you have a hand on the spindle. We're gonna carefully lay it to the side because we will need to remove our strut assembly in just a couple of minutes. But we don't want to stress out any of the joints, any of the brake lines. We wanna make sure that those are protected, so make sure you keep a handle on this. As you can see, that is disconnected. Now what we have to do is repeat that process on the other side, because we will need to move our sway bar out of the way in order to remove our strut assembly. So, after you've taken apart the other side, what we're gonna do is start to work on our strut assembly. We're gonna have three studs at the top. I'm gonna take a 14-millimeter socket, and I'm gonna remove that hardware up there. So, after the hardware is taken out of the top of the strut, what we're gonna do is take out this lower strut bolt.Now for this, I have a 19-millimeter wrench and 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, I would also recommend that you support the lower control arm when doing this. Now, to remove this bolt, you might have to play with the height of the control arm itself. So, it looks like we'll need to raise it just a hair. So, what I just did was lowered this down a little bit. Like I said, you will have to kind of play with the height of the lower control arm in order to get this bolt loosened up so that you can just push it right through. So, what I'm gonna do is just push that bolt through and remove it. So, what you're gonna also do, just like we did with the sway bar, is just take a punch. This makes it a little bit easier if it doesn't wanna come out fully by hand. And you're gonna just tap it through. Now again, we're gonna have to kind of mess with the height here. We may have to move the spindle around in order to do this. And we also are gonna have to get this outer tie rod and the sway bar out of the way to remove our strut assembly.So, in order to make room to remove the strut assembly, what I did was pulled the sway bar all the way down. The sway bar end link does have to pass that axle. So, once it's pulled all the way down, the tie rod is pulled most of the way out. What we're gonna do is just push the strut towards our brake rotor here or towards the spindle. And we should be able to just pop that out of the way. So, once the strut assembly is out on this side, what we're gonna do is repeat that process on the other side and then we're gonna install our spacers. So, now that we have our strut assemblies out of the truck, what we're gonna do is add our spacer. There's gonna be a couple of cutouts for our factory studs on top. This is just gonna sit right on top of our strut here. Now, once that's on top, what I would recommend to do is just take a look at the stud itself. This flat surface up on top of the spacer is gonna sit flush with the spring perch or the strut perch. So, you want to make sure that that stud there is not exceeding this top surface. If you need to grind it down you can definitely do so. I've already done that with our strut.Well, what we're gonna do at this time is take our factory hardware and a 14-millimeter socket and we're gonna thread on the hardware to secure down our spacer. I find it a little bit easier just to hand-thread them on with a socket, and then we're gonna tighten them up in a sec. So, once all three are on, what we're gonna do is just take our impact wrench. You can also take a ratchet. We can just tighten those up with that same 14-millimeter socket. Then we're gonna repeat that for the other strut. What we're gonna do at this point, making sure on the spacer, that the two bolt holes are facing the outside of our Tacoma and the one is facing the inside, we can pop our strut assembly back into place. So, what we're gonna do at this point is secure the top of our strut and our spacer there. I'm gonna be using the provided hardware in the kit which is the bolt, the lock washer, and the flat washer. You wanna make sure that lock washer is in the middle, then we can align our strut, drop our hardware through, and thread that into place.Now, we're not gonna tighten down these top three bolts just yet, we wanna make sure that that bottom bolt is in the bottom of our strut, then we're gonna go back and tighten all of that down. What we're gonna do now is take our factory lower strut bolt, and we can pop that through. You might have to tinker with the height of the lower control arm. You can use a pull jack or a jack stand or a floor jack to do so. What I'm gonna do is just pop that bolt through. If you need to, you can use the punch and the dead blow that we used before just to pop that through the other side. Then we're gonna secure that down with the factory washer and bolt. Then we're gonna secure that down with the factory bolt and we're gonna tighten down our strut assembly and move to the other side. Next, we're gonna tighten up this lower bolt here. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, you may need a 19-millimeter wrench as well if the bolt head spins. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not. Next, we're gonna move up top. Now, for the top 3 bolts, I'm gonna be using a 16-millimeter socket.And next we're gonna install our strut assembly on the other side and then come back here and button everything up. So, after you've installed the strut on the other side, we'll be able to move the sway bar freely so we can get it back into its place. But first, we're going to attach our spindle here. So, we're just gonna pop the spindle back up into place so we can attach it to the upper control arm. So, once you have the spindle lined up with the upper control arm, you may have to loosen the upper control arm in order to get this to fit or just drop down far enough in order for you to get a couple of threads. You can raise up on the lower control arm, just be mindful of your lift points when you're doing this. So, I'm just using a small pry bar just to pry down on the upper control arm just so we can get a couple of threads on. Now, it might be helpful to loosen the upper control arm in order to get it to drop down far enough or you could use a small pry bar like I just did.And then what we're gonna do at this point is tighten down this nut here and reattach our cotter pin so it's set at the correct angle. And then we can button up our sway bar end link as well as our outer tie rod. I'm gonna use that 19-millimeter swivel socket that we originally used to remove this. Then we're gonna take a cotter pin, put that through, make sure that it hooks on part of that castle nut. And then we can install our sway bar end line and our outer tie rod. Then making sure that the sway bar end link is at the correct height, which it should be if the other side is attached, we can put that through our spindle. take our factory nut, thread that on, then we're gonna tighten that up with a 17-millimeter socket. Next we're gonna take our outer tie rod, we're gonna line that up with our knuckle here. So, now we can align our outer tie rod. You may have to move the knuckle itself back and forth in order to get this lined up. Then we're gonna take our factory castle nut, thread that on. We're gonna take a 19-millimeter socket and tighten that up.And once that's tightened up, you wanna make sure that the castle nut aligns with the hole on the stud there, on the ball joint, because we have to put in a new cotter pin. And I recommend to put in a new cotter pin because the old ones do get pretty rusty and they wear out. I'm just using a pair of needlenose pliers. When the cotter pin is through, you just wanna make sure that you bend back the longer part just to make sure that it stays in place. Once that's in place, what we're gonna do is reattach our brake lines. First, we're gonna attach our brake line bracket on the spindle, thread that factory bolt in by hand, tighten that up with a 12-millimeter socket. Next, we're gonna attach our upper control arm brake line bracket and the one that's on the frame. I'm gonna do the control arm bracket first using that 10-millimeter bolt that we originally used. And I'm also going to use a 10-millimeter socket to tighten that up. Next, we're gonna attach the brake line bracket that's on the frame here. I'm gonna be using that 12-millimeter factory bolt and 12-millimeter socket.So, once everything is reattached and tightened down, what we're gonna do is reattach our tires. So, once all the lug nuts are on, I again, I'm using this spline key, but I'm gonna take a 19-millimeter socket, and depending on what lug nuts that you have, the tool may depend, but I'm just gonna tighten down our lugs. So, at this point, what I would recommend to do, if you did loosen up that upper control arm in order to meet the spindle, I would put the truck down on its own weight and tighten that up with a 19-millimeter socket. And then I would recommend to torque everything down to factory spec, as well as take your truck to get an alignment, and then you're all set to go. So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this. And always keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • 2.5-inch Front Leveling Kit
      • Corrects Factory Rake for a Level Stance
      • Increases Front Ground Clearance
      • CNC-Machined Aluminum Strut Spacers
      • Black Anodized Finish
      • Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation
      • Fits 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma 6-Lug Models


      Eliminates Factory Rake. Raise the front of your 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma by 2.5-inches, to eliminate the original factory rake, with a Mammoth 4x4 Leveling Kit. This Mammoth 4x4 Kit will not only level out your Tacoma, but it will also increase the front end ground clearance as well.

      Quality Construction. These Mammoth 4x4 Strut Spacers have been CNC-machined from aircraft grade billet aluminum for superior strength and durability. Mammoth 4x4 then completes their Leveling spacers in a durable black anodized finish for good looks and long lasting corrosion resistance.

      Straight Forward - Bolt-on Installation. Mammoth 4x4 designed their Front Leveling Kit to be a straight forward bolt-on install with no cutting or drilling required. With all the necessary hardware included, this Leveling Kit can be installed in about 4 hours time.

      Application. This Mammoth 4x4 2.5-inch Front Leveling Kit is specifically engineered to fit 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma 6-Lug models.

      Mammoth 4x4



      Mammoth TT6067

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) 42mm Thick Spacers
      • Bolts
      • Lock Nuts

      Customer Reviews (13)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Tacoma

        • 2.7L I4 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 23
        • 3.5L V6 - 23
        • 4.0L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15