(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys, Adam here with extremeterrain.com. And today we're taking a closer look at, listening to, and installing the Flowmaster FlowFX Dual Cat-Back Exhaust System with Black Tips, available for the 2009 and Newer 5.7-Liter Tundra. You should be checking this out if you're looking to ditch the factory single exhaust system in favor for a dual side exit system that's going to beef up the sound profile and aggression of your 5.7 Tundra. Now, as you just heard from our sound clips, I'm going to give this one three out of five on our loudness meter simply because it's a perfect daily driver exhaust. It's not too loud, but it's not too quiet. As you heard from those sound clips, you get a deep, rich, throaty sound with this and a really loud bark, especially at wide-open throttle. From red light to red light, it stays pretty tamed, but it still lets you know that it's aftermarket making it the best of both worlds. Great for daily driving and great for a weekend warrior truck that you want to get a little bit rowdy with.Now, this kit here uses a head-to-toe 409 stainless steel making it that middle of the road material. They're not as expensive as 304, but more durable than aluminized. It's perfect for guys in wintery weather areas who need that durable 409, something that won't corrode as easily. Now, it's also got black ceramic coated tips. Now, these tips there are going to be a lot more durable than the factory tip, which again is pretty much non-existent, but we'll take a closer look at that later on in the video. These are 4.5-inch slash-cut double-walled tips, so they're really aggressive-looking and it gives you that stealthier look with the blackout. Now, if you're not interested in black, there's also a polished option to keep it a little bit more traditional.Now, as for the exit style, it's going to switch things up compared to the factory one. As you know, your factory 5.7 Tundra had a single exhaust that dumped out behind the passenger side tire there. This is actually going to replicate that on the driver side as well. You get both of that styling and a true dual exhaust fashion. Now, the price tag for this kit's going to come in right around 650 bucks, making it again in the middle of the road option. It's not one of the entry-level options, but it's not going to be the most expensive over 1,000 bucks. Perfect for guys looking for a durable system with a big change in sound and a nice appearance change while keeping it a little bit on the more budget-friendly side.Now the install, I'm giving two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. There's no drilling, cutting, or welding necessary. Bolts right up out of the box. It's just a little bit more involved than say a cold air intake, for example. You will have to mount a new hanger on the frame on the driver side simply because the exhaust was never there to begin with, but that's not too difficult, and I'll show you guys what that looks like. The entire install is going to take you about two hours from start to finish depending on your experience. Simple hand tools required. Let's get started.Tools used in the install include an air impact gun, cordless impact or a ratchet, 14 and 15-millimeter deep sockets, recommended would be a 14-millimeter swivel socket, 13 wrench, and a hanger removal tool. Additionally, you could also use PB B'laster or WD-40. First up the uninstall, I'm putting a pole jack under our muffler just for added support. So, if you're working on the ground, a jack stand might be very useful here just to add some of that extra support. At the back end where the outlet is for the muffler, I'm gonna grab a 12-millimeter socket and loosen up that clamp there. So, that's step number one.All right. As you can see, our bolt head actually broke off of the clamp, but the clamp is loose. Since we're replacing the exhaust, not that big of a deal. If you plan on going back to stock at some point and this happens to you, you may want to pick up a replacement, but new clamps are included in the kit, so we're not worried about it. Now, obviously, if your bolt head didn't break off, you don't have to remove the clamp. You can just keep it loose. But because ours is broken, I can easily just bend it and pull it off. So, that's what I'm doing. Next step, toward the front of the vehicle, there is a dual inlet going into our exhaust, so we have to remove this flange, the two bolts holding that flange together and one up a little bit farther, same exact thing. I'm going to grab a 14-millimeter socket. I'm actually using a swivel socket because they are a little bit of a weird angle at the top end. So, let's get all four of those off. So, our bolts are looking pretty rusty, but a little bit tight and kind of corroded on there. So, I'm gonna use some PB B'laster just to try to loosen those guys up on both sides.All right. Looks like we need a little bit more torque, so I'm switching over to an air gun to get this off. Okay. Repeat that for all four. Okay. Same thing for the farther up front one. Next up, we're going to use our hanger removal tool, something I'd definitely recommend. We're going to pop out the hanger from the isolator on the frame on both sides. All right. So, we're just gonna hook this guy on and pop it off. All right. For this next one, it's the last thing holding on the exhaust. We have our pole jack still on one side, so you want to make sure you're there to catch the other side. All right. And now this piece of the exhaust can come down. All right. There is actually one more hanger directly above the muffler outlet. So, you want to have that guy come off with your hanger tool. And again, remember just to have support on the muffler itself because it is going to start to come off. All right. Last step here is to remove the tailpipe. The tailpipe now is just held on by one more hanger directly above the outlet. All right. From there you can feed that over the axle and set it aside. So, we've got our factory exhaust off of our 2016 Tundra and it's on the ground here next to our Flowmaster Flow FX Dual Cat-Back.Let's go through some similarities and differences between the two kits here, and I want to really start at the front end of the vehicle. Now, what you'll notice here is that it has a very, very similar layout from the muffler to the front of the vehicle. We still got the dual inlets that will go from the different flanges, difference here being your factory exhaust is more of a 2 to 2-1/4-inch tubing, the new tubing here from Flowmaster from head to toe is going to be a 2.5-inch tubing, slightly larger diameter, mandrel bent 409 stainless steel. Now, the mandrel bends are going to help reduce all the kinks that you would get from the factory exhaust so it's going to have a better air flow, less restriction. The 409 stainless is going to be that middle-of-the-road material. It's something that's a little bit more cost-effective than 304 stainless, but it's still really durable, durable enough for guys located in wintery weather areas like we are here on the East Coast. We see a lot of road salt in the winter months, which can corrode your exhaust materials. 409 stainless is going to be the more durable option over some of the alternatives like aluminized. So, durable stuff there, slightly larger diameter.Moving forward, you can see a big difference in the size of the mufflers. Your factory muffler is huge. It's very restrictive. It's got a lot of chambers on the inside muffling that sound that you want to get out of the 5.7. The new Flowmaster FlowFX series muffler that we have here is a straight-through performance muffler, very little baffling if any on the inside. So it gives you that really deep, throaty, rich tone that you heard from our sound clips earlier on. And that's going to split off into a dual exit as opposed to the single exit from our factory exhaust. Now, this factory exhaust goes from the 2 to 2-1/4-inch to a 2.5-inch outlet, this stays with 2.5 all the way through. Splits into the dual exit that goes around your spare tire carrier to dump out as a dual side. The passenger side stays very similar between the two dumping out in front of the rear passenger side tire. It's also going to do the same thing on the driver side. This, however, is going to have a black 4.5-inch 304 stainless steel tip with a powder-coated finish on top. Your factory tip is borderline non-existent. It's basically just straight pipe coming up the side of the truck. So, dual sides are going to beef up the appearance, but the tips take it even further. Those tips are going to last you the lifetime of that vehicle, the 304 stainless is the highest quality of materials, and on top of that, the black powder coating gives you the stealthy look and adds to the corrosion and rust resistance.With that said, guys, I want to start with the install. All the way up the front, we're going to put these two pipes onto the flange, work our way back to the rear. Take the shorter flange pipe to start off the install. You want to set that up against the left side of the driver side flange. Now, it is angled a certain way. You want to make sure it's angled toward your passenger side. Take your factory bolts and put them back through. All right. And then we're going to tighten these down and do the same thing to the longer pipe. And again, I'm going to use my 14 swivel socket and tighten them down. All right. Next up, we're going to do our longer flange pipe. Now, our factory bolts were looking a little worse for wear, so I am replacing them. But if your factory bolts are in good condition, obviously you can keep using those guys. Because I'm replacing them, I am going to have to install a nut on the backside. All right. So, now, you can grab your socket and tighten them down. Next up, here is a little unusual. We have to grab the hanger clamps included in the kit, so we're basically going to slide the shorter one onto our passenger side pipe and connect it to the hanger isolator on the frame. Same thing on the other pipe. And then we'll tighten them down.Next step, we're going to install our muffler. Make sure you have a clamp on both sides of the inlets, and you're going to hold this guy up and connect them to the two pipes connecting to the flanges. All right. Now, you can grab a 15 socket and tighten down these clamps. Now, when we tighten these down, I'm actually just going to get them nice and snug. We want to leave a little bit of room for adjustment until the very end, but we still want to get them nice and secure. Now, for the tailpipes, I'm going to start on our passenger side because that side is already set up with the hanger. Take one clamp, install it over the passenger side muffler outlet, and then we'll feed over the axle, the new pipe going into the factory hanger. Slide that guy on just like that. Now, when you do this, you want to connect the isolator and hanger together before inserting the pipe into the muffler. So, you want to slide this guy in first and then connect it to the muffler. All right. You just want to make sure that pipe is all the way seated into the outlet for our muffler, and we can get the clamp nice and snug. So, we can do our exit pipe elbow, put that into the tailpipe that goes over the axle. Make sure there's a clamp on the end there while you're doing that. Make sure it's seated all the way.At this point, you want to make sure it's angled properly so that the tip isn't going to go on the inside of the fender there, make sure it's angled downward, and get that clamp snug. Wrapping up the passenger side, we can install our tip. Tip doesn't need a clamp. The clamp is built into the tip. So, once you have that seated there where you like it, tighten that guy down. Grab your 14 wrench and socket and tighten that down. Okay. Now, we can repeat on the other side. All right. Starting on the other side, make sure you have a clamp over the muffler outlet on the driver side, grab the pipe that'll start feeding over the axle, connect it to the hanger. Okay. Connect the pipe to the isolator on the frame and then feed it in to the muffler. Now, we can get the clamp snug. Next up, we have to install a hanger isolator on the frame on our driver side because the tailpipe didn't exist there before. So, there one pre-existing. Now, what we're going to do is basically take this rod included in the kit that's got a threaded bolt already welded to it, put it up through the frame, put a bolt plate on top, and we'll follow it up with a couple of washers and a nut. Now, it's pretty difficult to see, it's higher up there on the frame, we're to give you guys a general area of where that's going to go, and show you guys as best as we can.All right. So, you're gonna basically look at your spare tire, go directly to the left of it, up of your frame, and go straight up to where the opening hole is. Mount that guy there, drop the bolt plate on top of that, follow it up with the washers, and the nut. All right. So, you're going to tighten down the nut as best as you can by hand, and then we'll have to go up there with a wrench and finish the job, but you want to make sure it's facing the outside of the vehicle. All right. So, next up, what you want to do is take the isolator included in the kit, this red guy, and it's a tight fit and it's already greased out of the box. So, you should be able to get it on there. But if you need to, you can further lubricate it, of course. Just rotate it back and forth until it's seated on there properly. Perfect. Now, you will have to rotate this, but, of course, you want to make sure you test fit your pipe first to figure out where that hanger is going to land depending on how this will actually fit together. Next up, we can do our pipe that's going to swivel around the spare tire. You want to make sure that you have a clamp on the end going into the other pipe coming out of the muffler, make sure it's seated all the way in, and feed it up. Now, from here, we have to mount it on the isolator that we just installed. You may need to pull the isolator off in order to get it to seat properly.All right. Bring this up. What we're going to do is basically put just a bit of it in, line it up to the hanger we installed on the frame and do the same thing, and then push them in simultaneously. All right. Once you have that seated, we can move on. All right. Switch over to your 15 socket and get this clamp snug. Next, wan connect the elbow to the over axle pipe giving us that side exit on our driver side, make sure you have a clamp on there as well. All right. So, now, we can snug up that clamp. Last but not least, our tip on the driver side, slide that guy on, grab your 14 socket and wrench, and tighten it down. Go back and tighten down all of your clamps, and you're good to go.Well, that's gonna wrap up my review, install, and sound clip for the Flowmaster FlowFX Dual Exhaust System with Black Tips and a Side Exit for the '09 and newer 5.7 Tundra. Get yours right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Exhaust System Type||Cat-Back System|
|Exhaust Tip Finish||Black, Black Chrome|
|Exhaust Tubing Diameter||2.50 Inch|
|Exhaust Material||Stainless Steel|
|Exhaust Tip Outlet Style||Dual|
|Exhaust Exit Location||Both Sides - After Tire|
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
10 More Questions
Not Compatible with Regular Cab with a 6.50-Foot Bed and Double Cab with a 8-foot Bed