(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey, guys. Today I'm here with the Deegan 38 Rear Bumper and Tire Carrier fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. So if you're in search for a heavy-duty rear bumper and tire carrier that's gonna bring a lot of functionality as well as an aggressive aesthetic to the rear end of your Jeep, this option by Deegan 38 is gonna be a great choice to take a look at. This is gonna offer a lot of heavy-duty protection as well as strength with the steel-constructed bumper as well as a tire carrier that's able to hold up to a 37-inch tire. Not to mention you're also getting light mounting points on either side if you're looking to add some extra visibility out of the rear end of your Wrangler. What I personally like about this design is that it keeps it pretty simple, it keeps it to the basics, but it's also going to be very stylish and hassle-free. Now with all that being said, this is gonna be roughly $900 for the set with the rear bumper and tire carrier and I personally think that that is a good price. Now, this is going to bring a lot to the table. This is gonna have everything that you need included in the kit in order to swap over your factory components like I said before. This is gonna come with all of the bracketry that you need in order to mount this up. And I personally think that the light mounting options on either side are going to be a bonus to this kit.Now, in comparison to some other choices on our site, some less expensive options are usually gonna take a more basic approach. They may not have as an aggressive design as this, or they may not come with everything in the kit to swap over all the components from the factory. Now, on the other hand, some more expensive choices are usually gonna have those extra bells and whistles. They may come with more light mounting options, or they may be for single-action carriers which essentially means instead of this one with a latch, it will just operate by the tailgate and attach to the tailgate. Now, again, I think that this is still going to bring a lot to the table even though this is more simplistic than some of those really expensive choices, it gets the job done and it's going to last a very long time. Now, my personal opinion, I think if you're looking for a stylish design that's very functional and it's also going to have a no-hassle operation, this choice is definitely going to be a great setup for you.So, install is actually gonna be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. This is pretty easy to get installed with some very basic hand tools. So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that'll be used for this install are an impact wrench, a pair of snips, a pair of needle-nose pliers, a pair of wire cutters, strippers and crimpers, a dead blow, the provided Allen key, Phillips head screwdriver, a trim removal tool, a T8 and T25 Torx socket, 19-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 17-millimeter and 10-millimeter open-ended wrench, a 3-inch and 5-inch extension, three 5-millimeter axle socket. You'll need a socket set ranging from 21 millimeters down to 8 millimeters. The JL tool kit ratchet and T40 Torx bit. A quarter-inch drive, three-eighths-inch drive, and half-inch drive ratchet, ball-peen hammer and a grease gun.So, our first step is to take off our spare tire. We're gonna go ahead and take off the cover for the backup camera first. I'm gonna use the T40 Torx as well as the ratchet from the JL toolkit. So all you have to do is spin that and pull back and then we can access our lug nuts and take off our tire. So, if you have factory lug nuts, you'll be using a 22-millimeter socket. We do not, so I'm gonna use a 6-wide lug key and a 21-millimeter socket. We can start by taking off our tire carrier. So, what we need to do first is open up our tailgate and we need to remove this trim piece to access our wiring harness for our third brake light and our backup camera. I'm using a trim removal tool. It may be a little bit easier to start from this side and pull back. Just held in by a number of clips. We put this to the side. We can disconnect these top two connectors. Let's press on the top and pull back. So now that that's free, we can close up our tailgate and start the carrier removal. So to make sure that those wires are free, we want to peel this grommet back, wiggle this out. And then we can remove the bolts that are holding on our carrier with a 13-millimeter socket. Now, just be mindful of that last bolt. The carrier will come with it. Make sure you have a grip on the carrier, then we can pull back and remove it. Now we can start our bumper removal starting with this trim piece on the outer side in the wheel well. There are three eight-millimeter bolts holding it on, so I'm gonna use an eight-millimeter socket and a quarter-inch drive ratchet to remove those.Once those three bolts are out, we can fully remove the trim piece. Next, we can remove the two bolts that are holding on our secondary bracket to the bumper. I'm gonna be using a 16-millimeter socket. Next, we have another bracket up with the front holding on the back of our bumper. I'm gonna be using the same 16-millimeter socket to remove those two bolts. Now on the passenger side, you do wanna be careful of the exhaust here, not to cut your hand on it. Once that bolt is out, we can repeat that same process on the other side. So, once you've taken out the bolts on the driver side, on the driver side there is also going to be a wiring harness. This is gonna be for your license plate light. I'm just taking a trim removal tool and disconnecting the little clip just so we can pull it away from the body and disconnect the harness. I'm gonna push down on this tab, pull back, and now we're ready to remove our bumper. After everything is disconnected from our bumper, what we can do is fully remove it.What we can do now is take off our brackets. Depending on the model you will need a 21-millimeter socket and/or an 18-millimeter socket for the front brackets and then a 16-millimeter socket for the back ones. So, I'm gonna be using a 21-millimeter socket to take off the front brackets as well as the toe hook here. Now with the toe hook there too underneath, and the bracket and then toe hook will come off together. Next we can remove this back bracket by removing the two 16-millimeter bolts. I'm going to be using a 16-millimeter socket. And then we can repeat that on the other side. What we can do next is deconstruct our factory carrier. We do need to remove the third brake light as well as the backup camera. So, we're gonna take those out and swap those over to our new rear bumper and tire carrier. So, I'm gonna be using a T25 Torx bit to start removing the Torx bolts that are holding on the top piece of the carrier as well as this studs inside of the carrier.As you can tell when I took out those two bolts, the studs started to drop down. I'm just gonna take a dead blow and give it a little bit of a push out of the carrier. Next, we can start removing the T25 Torx bolts that are holding the rest of the carrier together. I'm gonna use that same Torx socket to do that. Once those are all removed, we can start to separate this. There's gonna be a wiring harness that we want to take out of this little groove here. Take this and put that to the side and start to separate these two pieces. Put these top pieces on. Start to pull up our harness, and there's gonna be two more T25 Torx bolts that are holding on our third brake light. We can use that same Torx socket. I'm gonna hold on to these screws because we will be reusing them. And then we can go ahead and disconnect this harness. Now we'll be using the harness as well, so we can put this piece aside and start working on our backup camera. So, there is a little clip that's holding the wiring harness on. We're gonna take trim removal tool and just pull back on that clip and wiggle it out. These can tend to break. So if it does break on you, that is okay. So once that is disconnected, we can take off our backup camera using a T8 Torx bit or T8 Torx socket. These are very tiny screws and there's gonna be three of them. After those are removed we can pull the harness up because we have to disconnect it and press down on this. Pull back. Once the camera is disconnected, we can put that to the side. We can wiggle the harness back through and put our studs aside and save our harness.Before we hop into the install, I wanted to stop down and do a little bit of a comparison between our factory setup and the new Deegan 38 setup to tell you guys what benefits that you're getting out of this new Deegan 38 rear bumper and tire carrier. Now, right off the bat, this is going to be a lot more durable, it's going to be able to hold a lot more weight and it's gonna come up with a bunch of features included on it that are not going to be offered on our factory rear bumper or even the tire carrier. Starting off, this is going to be made of a steel construction which has a two-stage of black texture powder coat finish. So when you are out on the trail, if you do take a hit to your rear bumper or even your tire carrier, it's gonna hold up a lot better than the factory rear bumper or carrier that's made of a plastic material. This is also going to be a little bit more compact on the sides. This is gonna have angled upside, so you are going to be increasing some departure angles. It's still gonna wrap around like the factory bumper, giving you that extra protection that you need, but it's also going to sit a little bit higher. Now, you're going to get a larger cut out for a larger wheel and tire which is going to be accompanied by that spare tire carrier. You're also getting two D-Ring mount points on the bumper for recovery and there even is a hitch included in the kit which you can use as a third recovery point or to tow anything small or use for accessories.What I really like about this bumper in comparison to our factory one is the fact that you're getting two light mounting points on either side. Now, those are not included in the kit, but you can add them on for some extra visibility out of the rear end of your Wrangler. Moving over to the tire carrier, what I really like about this is that you're going to be taking all that extra weight that that spare tire is carrying and putting it on a bumper-mounted system which is gonna be mounted up to the frame. So, it's a lot more solid than the factory carrier. It's able to hold up to a 37-inch tire. And if you were to put a larger or oversized tire on your factory carrier, it wouldn't hold up as long as this new option. This carrier from the factory is really only meant for the stock tire size. That's the weight that is going to be able to carry comfortably. So, if you were to add a larger wheel and tire, it may wear out the tire carrier itself or even damage the tailgate over time making it sag and wear out. So, if you are looking to preserve the life of your carrier, a bumper-mounted system is definitely a way to go and this Deegan 38 option is going to be able to achieve that. And not to mention, like you guys just saw, we did break down our factory carrier because we will be swapping over the factory third brake light, as well as the backup camera and this, even comes with a bracket for your license plate and lights included in the kit. So, really, this is a one-stop-shop when it comes to a rear bumper and tire carrier.So, enough from me. Let's go ahead and install our new bumper and tire carrier. First thing we have to do over at the Jeep is install our hitch. So, you're gonna get a backplate. You want to make sure that the four mounting points are up at the top. That's what's gonna connect to our frame. And then we're gonna have two connecting points down at the bottom to support our hitch. So, first, we're gonna take our longer bolt with the flat washer, send that through the back through our frame. I like to put two there at first just to hold it in place while we get everything else in place. So with that there, it's just gonna hang and we can take our hitch, line this up carefully considering the bolts are not attached. We can hang that there. Install two nuts and two flat washers. I'm not gonna tighten anything down just yet. We wanna get all of our hardware attached and then tighten everything down. We can do that same process for the middle. Then we can take our shorter bolts with the same thread. Put that through the bottom. And you're gonna have one on the other side as well. Two flat washers and a nut.What we can do now is tighten down all of the hardware. I'm gonna start with these two bottom bolts using an 18-millimeter open-ended wrench and an 18-millimeter shallow socket. You may have to use a three-inch drive ratchet just because it is a little bit more low-profile because you have your exhaust here. You can do that for the other side too and then we can tighten up the top bolts. Once those are tightened up, I'm gonna do the same with the top bolts. I am gonna be using an 18-millimeter deep socket for this outside portion here. Now we can move over to our bumper. Before we mount our bumper up, I wanna make sure that our spindle is installed as well as our latch bracket. And if you have the lights for this kit, you wanna make sure that you install them at this time as well. First, we're gonna drop our spindle down into our bumper, then we can take our longer bolts with the flat washer and lock washer and start threading them into place. We're gonna have four of these. Once those are hand-threaded in, we can take an 18-millimeter socket and start to tighten those up. What we can do now is install our latch, the flat washer, the bolt, and the nylon locknut. Now, this is also going to be adjustable from side to side. So, if we do have to adjust it in the future, we can. We just wanna make sure that it's installed before we go ahead and mount up our bumper. On the bottom, you're gonna have a washer and a nylon locknut. And after they are all threaded on, we're gonna tighten them up for now. If we do have to adjust it, we can once the bumper is on the Jeep. So, I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter socket for the top bolt head. I'm also gonna use a three-inch extension just to give myself a little bit of room, and then for that nylon locknut, I'm using a 17-millimeter wrench.Before we mount up our bumper, we do need to make sure that we put in our bracket with the welded nuts on the back. This is gonna go on the passenger side frame where it's gonna line up with the holes in the bottom of the frame. And now we're ready to mount up our bumper. Now we're ready to mount up our bumper, making sure that we have our hardware stage. So, once all of your hardware is in, we can tighten them up with the 21-millimeter socket. I recommend to tighten up the bottom ones first so it pulls the bumper up into the frame and then you can pull it in with the two on the side. Now for the top bolt, you may not have a lot of room, so I'm gonna use a hand ratchet for the top one. And we can do the same thing on the other side. So, next step is to install our races, our bearings, and our washers on to our tire carrier. I haven't flipped upside down because we're gonna start with the bottom. So first we're gonna start with the race. This is not just going to slide into place. We do have to tap it in. Now you can get a socket to go around the outer rim and tap it in that way. I'm just gonna use an extension. You can also use a punch. But we're just gonna lightly tap on the outside of the race. Now you also when you're doing this wanna make sure that you're very careful and just sticking to the outside. So once the race is set in place, what we can do is pack our bearing. I am just gonna put some grease on my hand and we can take our larger bearing and start to pack it. I'm gonna do both sides to make sure the bearing is fully packed and now we can place it down on that. Now we can place our larger washer down on in and then we can press in our seal. Now that's gonna be pretty tight as well, so you may wanna take the hammer or a dead blow.Next, we can take this plate guard. What we're gonna do is peel the 3M off the back. This is going to allow the stopper to stop your carrier from swinging out too far and to prevent it from scratching the bumper. Now you wanna make sure that it lines up with this hole here. Set it in place, give a good press, and now we can attach our carrier. It should stay in place and then we can attach our second race and our second bearing. So the top race is set. You just need to give it some small taps just to make sure that it's set in place, then we can pack our second bearing. You gotta make sure that that sits in place. You may have to wiggle the carrier a little bit. Next, we're gonna attach our castle nut. And while supporting the carrier, I'm gonna tighten this down with a 35-millimeter axle socket. And then we can place our cotter pin. We can bend that back with a pair of needle-nose pliers and that should stay in place, then we can put on our top. This might need a little bit of help going on. And we can take our bolt and hammer, just give it a little help. Next, we can start attaching our components to our tire carrier. We're gonna start with our bump stops and then move on to our third brake light bracket. So, you are gonna be supplied with 16-millimeter bolts in the package. These are gonna go on the side. There's gonna be a rib nut inside the tire carrier. And I'll thread that into place. And they are going to adjust. So, we're not gonna tighten them down just yet. We're gonna wait until our handle is secure, but we're gonna thread these in in the meantime. Do the same for the other side.And we can move up to the top. There's gonna be two threaded holes at the top of our tire carrier. We're going to place our main bracket or the bottom part of our bracket down on top of it, then we can take these same 16-millimeter bolts, flat washers, and lock washers and thread that into place. Then we can tighten these two bolts down making sure that the bracket is straight with a 16-millimeter socket. I'm also using an extension. Next, we're gonna install our handle so we can adjust our bump stops. This is gonna slide into the end of our tire carrier. We have two long bolts with a flat washer on one side, flat washer on the other side as well as the nylon locknut. And we can tighten these up with a 17-millimeter socket and wrench. So it looks like we may have to move this over to the left. So what I'm gonna do is just loosen these up a bit. So this is where it should be. So, now we can make sure that this stays in place and we can tighten that down to match up our carrier. This is spring-loaded so it may be difficult the first time. So then we can tighten these up since they are flush up against our bump stops using the same 16-millimeter socket. What you're gonna do now is take our factory third brake light and mount this up on our new bracket. We're gonna be securing it down with the factory bolts. We can tighten those up with the T25 Torx. Then we can mount this up to our Jeep. So this will slide right over, and depending on your tire size in your diameter of your tire, this will be adjustable and be able to go up and down to make sure that it clears. Right now I'm just going to loosely install it so we can adjust it as needed. You're gonna have Allen head screw or an Allen head bolt, two small flat washers and the nylon locknut. Now, again, we're not gonna tighten it down just because we do want some adjustability out of it once we mount up our tire.Now we can mount up our license plate bracket. This is gonna sit on the top of the carrier right next to the spindle. You're gonna have an Allen head bolt with a captured lock washer and flat washer. You're also gonna be provided with an Allen key. So we can tighten them down with that. Next, we can mount up the mount that's gonna be holding our spare tire. Now you would want to measure. This is going to be the center point of where it's going to be mounted, so you would want to measure from the center point of your tire to the outside of your tire, and that will give you the diameter. I am just going to mount this right in the middle. So now that part of the mount is mounted up onto our carrier, we can take that second part of the mount with the studs, run our wire through. This is an extension for your factory wiring harness for your reverse camera. We're gonna pull that through and leave it here for the moment. We can run that through and out the side. Put this into place, making sure that we're not pinching that harness. To make sure this stays in place, you have a bolt that is a set bolt. I'll put it down on top. That'll thread in an act as a stopper. Then we can attach our bolts through the side.Now, depending on your backspacing, it will depend on how far you have this mount out. You want to measure from the center of your wheel where it is flush with the mounting location to the edge of your tire and that will be the distance that you need to set this at away from the carrier. So the ones that are directly mounted to our carrier, we are going to tighten that down with 18-millimeter socket and 19-millimeter wrench. You're gonna take the setscrew out if you'd like to use an impact wrench. Next, we're gonna do the same for the sides. Still using an 18-millimeter socket 19-millimeter wrench. Then we're gonna tighten down this top set bolt with that 18-millimeter socket. The camera wiring harness is going to go into our camera mount and then sit on top of the studs. And then we're gonna leave this aside right now because we do have to attach our camera. So, what we can do is plug our cameras in. That's going to more or less kind of hold it in place. We don't drop it while we're mounting this up. Then we're going to grab our hardware. This is gonna be in a separate bag because it is quite small. You're gonna have a washer, lock washer, and flat washer. I'm just using a small Phillips head screwdriver to tighten down, making sure that the camera is sitting flush in the mount. Right. Now I'm gonna repeat that, the other two.Next, we can put our cover on to our studs. So I roughly measured where this needs to be, about 20 inches above our center line because we have a 35. So, I'm gonna take the provided Allen key and a 10-millimeter wrench and tighten that up. I'm just gonna snug it up so we can slide this up when it is almost tight. That's roughly where we have it. Same thing for the top. Now we can plug in our extension wire for our third brake light and start to run our wires. Next, we can plug in our factory wiring harness. So, this is going to go into our extension. So the pink one is going to be for our reverse camera. The black one with the red and black wire, so that's going to be for our third brake light. And now we can sheath them and put these into the tailgate. Make sure that these are all tucked. So we're gonna start the sheathing process. We just are going to cover up these wires and combine them together. We're gonna start at the junction of our backup camera wire and our third brake light wire. It's gonna be a split in between here, and we're just going to run these two together. This is just gonna clean up the look of the wire, keep them out of the way, and keep them protected. So I am going to skip over these connectors and just cover them up with a couple of wraps of electrical tape just to make sure that the connectors are protected, but the sheathing is not gonna be able to hold them. I'm just gonna take a pair of side cutters and trim it. So we can tuck a lot of this in the rear bumper but we are also supplied with little zip ties to keep them in place. And these are going to 3M to the bumper. Now I have the tire carrier all the way out to where it would lock in place just to make sure that all of our measurements are correct when tying these down.What we can do next is install our license plate bolts. These are going to have a light on them. So, we will have to wire these in. Now, first, I am going to put our license plate into place. Thread the wire through making sure that the net in the washer are on the other side or taken off so we can thread them on. Pull that all the way through, put the bolt through the bracket and thread the nut on making sure that the light or the LED is facing down. We'll do the same to the other one. Washer then nut. So what I'm gonna do is add a spade connector on to each of the red wires and each of the black wires. Now we already have a spade connector on our license plate wiring harness from the factory already. So that's what I'm gonna plug these two into. You can wire this however you'd like, but if you'd like to add a vampire clip on to your wiring harness from the factory, that is one of the easiest ways to do it, or you can just wire these directly into your license plate wiring harness. This makes it a little bit easier. So I strip the wire a little bit, just crimped it into the spade connector and making sure that they're both in place. We'll do that for the black wires as well. Now we can run these over to the driver side. So like I said before, we can just plug our spade connectors into the connectors that we put there already. Black to black. Red to the power wire. It should be a white wire depending on your model, it may be a little bit different. It may have a different trace in the white wire, but regardless, it will be the white one. And then once those are plugged in, we can tie all this extra wire out of the way. Last but not least, we can mount up our accent plate. This is gonna come with stainless hardware, lock washer, flat washer, and a button head bolt. And there are gonna be threads in the bumper. I'm using the provided Allen key in the kit. And we can repeat that on the other side.So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Freight Notes. Freight items can only be shipped within the continental 48 states, no expedited methods. What is freight shipping? Your Answers are Right Here!.
Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 2021
Deegan 38 J130570
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 2 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the BoxContents:
Tire Carrier Hardware:
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