(approx) 6 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
$1,944.99 (kit)FREE Shipping
Hey, guys. So today I'm here with the Teraflex 2.5 inch Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with the Falcon 2.1 Monotube Shocks, fitting all 2017 to 2018 JK Wranglers. So a lift kit can offer you a number of different benefits as far as performance goes as well as aesthetics. This offer by Teraflex is gonna do just that. It's going to create a really nice stance on your Wrangler, a really aggressive stance with the lower center of gravity, but it's also gonna be the perfect blend between street and trail use. This is gonna be a very comfortable lift kit, perfect for the daily driver, but it's also gonna offer you those capabilities. When you hit the trail, you're gonna be able to conquer those trails. So this is a very inclusive lift kit. It comes with everything that you need to get your Jeep up and off the ground. It also comes with some tuned lower front control arms, perfect to correct some of that caster and pinion angles that we threw off. And it does come with the impressive Falcon 2.1 monotube shocks.So as far as tires goes, guys, this is going to fit up to a 35-inch tire. That's what's recommended for this. Now, 33s are gonna look a little small in the wheel well but it's gonna give you some more room for up travel while you're off-road. And as far as 37s go, you may be able to fit them on there. However, you're not gonna have a lot of room to work with and you are going to rub and wheel lock the wheel lock. So as far as price goes, this is gonna be roughly $1800, making this a little bit more expensive than the average lift kit. But you do have to think about what you're getting in this kit compared to some other options. So lesser expensive options, they may not come with all the components that you see here including those lower control arms, and they may come with some more baseline options considering that this comes with an upgraded shock. So comparing it to Teraflex as other lift kits, they may come with the standard 9550 as to where this comes with middle ground Falcon monotube. So I definitely think if you're looking for a quality lift kit but you're not looking to go completely over the top, then this is a great one to take a look at.So install is actually gonna be a two out of three wrenches on this guys. It's only gonna take you about six hours to get everything bolted up. Everything is really bolt-on. You do have a couple of places where you do have to drill but the drilling is not hard. And you're gonna need a number of different hand tools that we'll show you in just a moment. So speaking of this install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were an impact wrench, a drill, an impact wrench, a cut off wheel, an assortment of drill bits, specifically a 3/8th inch and a 5/8th inch, a pry bar, a breaker bar, number of extensions, an assortment of ratchets, a trim removal tool. You will need an assortment of wrenches, standard and metric, the provided tool by Teraflex, an adjustable wrench, a pair of vise-grips, safety glasses, an assortment of sockets, and deep sockets, and swivel sockets, an assortment of Allen keys, pliers, a marker, snips, vise grips, the center punch, a Phillips head screwdriver, a tape measure, WD-40, a hammer, a dead blow, and a flathead screwdriver.So the first thing you need to do is get your Jeep up in the air and your tires off. You can use a 19-millimeter socket and an impact wrench or a breaker bar to do that. Next thing we're gonna do is support our axle. So I have some pull jacks here and I'm just gonna put two underneath here so when we drop our axle, everything is supported. Next thing we need to do is take off our sway bar link so you can grab an 18-millimeter wrench and an 18-millimeter socket. So I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter deep socket and an 18-millimeter wrench to remove this bottom bolt.So once you have the bottom bolt out of your one sway bar link, we need to move to the other side to do the same thing. So we can move this sway bar down and access our top stud. So to access the passenger side sway bar end link bolt, I am gonna use an 18-millimeter swivel since this is in a tighter spot and our 18-millimeter wrench. So now we can pull our sway bar down so we can access our top stud a little bit easier. So in order to remove the top part of our sway bar link, we do need to hold our studs still with a 19-millimeter wrench on the other side of our sway bar, then we can take our 18-millimeter socket and go ahead and remove that nut.So what you're gonna do is grab a 19-millimeter wrench. We're gonna hold this stud still. And then we can grab our 18-millimeter socket that we used earlier and go ahead and remove that top stud. So what I'm gonna do now is disconnect our track bar from our axle. And since we are fully replacing our track bar, we can also disconnect it from our frame side too. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket as well as an extension to clear our drag link here and we can go ahead and remove our track bar bolt. So you will usually have a flag nut on the other side, this Jeep does not so I am using a 7/8th inch wrench in order to hold that nut still. So now I'm gonna remove the bolt out of our frame side of our track bar. I'm gonna be using a 7/8th inch wrench to hold the nut on the other side and our 21-millimeter socket that we use at the axle side to remove the bolt. So once both bolts are removed, we can fully remove our track bar.So what we're gonna do next is remove our bottom shock bolt so we can drop our axle. I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter swivel and a 19-millimeter wrench. However, the factory bolt will be an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. So what we're gonna do next is fully remove our shock before we go ahead and lower axle. Now we do need to remove the top shock nut. This can be an issue so I do recommend soaking with a penetrant like PB B'laster or WD-40 before you go ahead and remove it. Now I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench on the top part of our shock. And then I'm gonna hold our shock body still with a 16-millimeter open-ended wrench.So before we go ahead and lower our axle, we wanna make sure that our brake lines are freed up so we're not stressing them out. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket and remove it from our flame. So we're also going to remove our lower brake line bracket. We're gonna be replacing this in the near future. I'm gonna be using a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench to remove this bolt on the outside of our spring perch. Once that bolt is removed, we can fully remove our brake line bracket. Now we can do the same thing on the other side. So now that everything's disconnected, what we can do at this point is lower our axle. So once we have our axle lowered enough, we can remove our spring.So our axle is still not low enough in order to get our new springs in so what I'm gonna do is disconnect our drive shaft. You wanna make sure that you make a mark so it is oriented in the same way that it is bolted up right now. So I'm just gonna take a sharpie and mark the flange. And then we can take a 15-millimeter swivel socket and remove the four bolts that are holding on our drive shaft. So we are able to fully lower our axle to get ready for our new spring.So before I go ahead and show you how this lift kit is installed, I did wanna show you guys on the table with some stock components and some new components, what benefits that you're getting out of this new lift kit in comparison to your stock ones. So right off the bat, shocks are a big thing. Shocks are what's gonna give you your ride quality. And there's two schools of thought when it does come to shocks. You have a hydraulic shock and you have a gas-charged shock. So your stock shock is gonna be hydraulic. It's gonna be really fluid-like and very comfortable, perfect for the daily driver, but it's not so great when it comes to performance because it does happen to be susceptible to shock fade over time. Now, this lift kit comes with the Falcon 2.0 monotube shocks. They're gonna be gas-charged. They're going to separate that oil and gas to prevent any of that cavitation from happening making them last a very long time. It's also gonna have a three-quarter-inch hardened chrome-plated shaft for some extra durability and to prevent any buckling.So moving down the line, you're also gonna get your coils. That's what's gonna give you the tight out of this lift kit. These are gonna be 2.5 inches larger than your stock coils. Now, you also get a new adjustable track bar with this. This is gonna be, like I said, adjustable. It's gonna completely recenter your axle after we've thrown off some of that geometry, after we've lifted our Wranglers. Now, it's also gonna be 230% stronger than your stock track bar. So you can really count on it to hold up while you're out on the trail in comparison to your stock one. Now you're also getting a rear track bar relocation back with this. This is pretty standard in all lift kits. You don't necessarily need an adjustable track bar for the rear, but this is going to help center our rear axle.So another big component that you're getting out of this lift kit is front lower control arms. These are gonna be pre-adjusted to have the perfect caster alignment after we've thrown everything off after lifting our Wrangler. These are gonna have factory style bushings. However, these still are going to provide full range of motion. And the control arms themselves are gonna be a lot more durable than the factory. And then you are gonna have those little components to accommodate for all that height. So you are getting new sway bar links to accommodate for that 2.5 inches of lift. And what I also do like about that is it comes with quick disconnect hardware. So when you're at the trailhead, all you have to do is pull a pin for instant articulation instead of actually having to get underneath your Wrangler with a couple of tools and manually disconnect them. So those are the main big components that you're getting out of this lift kit. Now, you are getting a lot of smaller components that are going to accommodate for that height change. You are getting some longer bump stops. You are getting some longer sway bar links for the front and the rear. So enough about all these components on the table, let's go ahead and bolt up our new lift kit.So we do have to replace our bump stops with our new speed bumps. So there are little tabs on your jumps too that are holding in your bump stop. You can put a flathead screwdriver back there to kind of pry the bump stop out if it is giving you trouble. Usually, there's not too much trouble with these. But this one seems to be, it's a little bit of an issue. All right, there we go. Now we can do the same thing on the other side. So what we're gonna do now is install our speed bump stop. You wanna make sure that the notch is facing the front of the vehicle. As you can see, this is tapered, you wanna make sure that it's oriented in the correct way. I did put a little bit of grease on it to make sure that it slides in easier. And then you want a couple of blocks of wood on the bottom of your spring perch. And we're just going to press this in by raising our axle. There she goes.Then we're gonna lower axle back down and do the same thing on the other side. So what we need to do next is install our bump stop pad on our spring perch here. There is no hole there so we will have to drill a hole in order to secure this down. What I'm gonna do is just place this over top where we want it to be, take a center punch, and mark a center hole. So we do need to drill a 3/8-inch hole. I'm gonna start with an 11/64th inch drill bit. I'm gonna drill a pilot hole with this, then we can chop it up to a quarter-inch and then finally a 3-inch. Also, make sure to wear your safety glasses. So after you drill your pilot hole, we're just going to step this up to a 3/8th inch drill bit. So a little WD-40 will help preserve your drill bit and it will help your cutting process.Now we're gonna install our bump stop pad. We're gonna put that where we drilled our hole, take our provided hardware. Now it's gonna be the 3/8 inch bolt. The front and the rear will be different. Now we can grab our flange nut and our provided tool by Teraflex with that up inside the spring perch. Once that's tightened into place, we can repeat that same process on the other side. So now that our speed bumps and our speed bump pads are in, we can make sure that our axle is low enough and we can pop in our springs. So I have the axle fully dropped right now far as it'll go and our springs fit in perfectly. Now it's not gonna seat correctly when the axle is dropped, but once we raise it up and start to compress it, they will seat properly. So I'm just gonna raise up the axle to put a little bit of pressure on our springs, make sure they seat a little bit better.So what we're gonna do now is move on to our control arms. I would like to mention that you do have to do these one at a time. You're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench. And we're gonna go ahead and remove our first control arm. So we can grab our new control arm and go ahead and install it. What I do really like about these is the fact that you don't have to use a knockout tool in order to knock out the control arm mount. These are already pre-adjusted and pre-tuned for a perfect caster alignment, like I said before. But you don't have to spend all that time cleaning up the axle for caster because that is kind of a lengthy process when you wanna get it done right. So we do wanna tighten down our control arms when the Jeep is on its own weight.So right now, our other control arm is fighting us in order to get our one control arm folded up. So what I'm gonna do is go ahead and unbolt the other one so we can get this one bolted in and the other control arm holding up as well. Now that our other side is unbolted, we can move our axle how we need to. Now we can just thread on our nut. And now that we have one longer control arm on, it's gonna push our axle forward so when we go to install our new one, it's going to line up perfectly. So we can just repeat that same process on the other side.So next step is we wanna get in our shocks. However, we do need to bolt up our brake line to a new anchor to our shock bolt. Now, what we need to do first is totally discard this bracket. This was mounted up underneath our spring perch here. However, these brake lines here, your soft line and your ABS line are going to be installed on that new anchor. We need to get this out of the way. So first, I'm gonna take a trim removal tool and just remove these clips that are holding on our ABS line. So once you have your ABS line removed from your bracket, you can get that out of the way. And what I'm gonna do now is take a cut-off wheel and make a notch in this bracket. What Teraflex recommends to do is grab a pair of vise-grips and pry this back so you can get your soft line out. However, this is incredibly hard to do. So what I'm gonna do is just make a nutshell, it makes it a little bit easier. So what I've done here is just took a pair of vise-grips, attached it to our shock mount. That's why we're gonna do this before we go ahead and put it on our shock. And then I'm just gonna make a small notch in our brake line bracket. Now, you do have to be very careful with your soft line here. You don't wanna go all the way through your bracket and destroy your soft line. We just wanna make a notch so it's easier to bend them back.So now, we're ready to install our shock. You wanna make sure that your top bushing is off and the top nut is off because it will come pre-installed on your shock, then we can just move this bottom bushing up a tad. So when we put this into place, we can align this tab with the hole in our shock tower. So what I have to do is actually take the tab off, put that, align that in the hole and then we can go ahead and align our shock, making sure that the tab is seated. Now we can take our top bushing and the top nut, and thread that on. So once you have the nut in hand, we can go ahead and thread that on, making sure that everything is seated properly. Now, this is gonna be a nylon lock nut so it's not gonna thread on all the way. You're gonna need a 19-millimeter wrench and we are just going to tighten that down.Now, the shock body will stay still because of that tab. We don't need to wedge an Allen key up there in order to make sure that this is tight. And we also wanna make sure that this is tightened down to 15-foot-pounds, which should be right around hand tight. You wanna make sure never to overtighten your shocks or at least the top shock nut. So what you will notice about these Falcon shocks is that they're actually upside down. So usually our rod is up here. But we actually have the shock body up in our tower here and the rug down at the bottom. After that top shock bolt is tightened down, we can move to the lower shock bolt and attach our brake line anchor in the process.So what I'm just gonna do is tap this in. So what I'm gonna do is take our brake line anchor, wedge that in between, well, not on our brake lines. Just a moment, take our factory bolt, take that through, go ahead and put that up in the meantime since that's where we're going to touch our bracket. So now we can go ahead and tighten this down. I'm gonna be using the same 19-millimeter swivel that I used before and an 18-millimeter wrench on the other side. So what I'm gonna do first is just snip off these clips because we won't be needing them. Those were for the other bracket. Just be careful not to clip your brake line neck. So we can just put our ABS line first. There's gonna be a smaller channel down at the bottom. We're just gonna use a flathead and thread that in. Then we can take our soft line, put that on top. Then we can take our provided zip ties that Teraflex gave us. There are gonna be channels for zip ties. You're gonna put three on each. Now, we can repeat that same process on the other side.So what we're gonna do next after we've installed both of our shocks is go ahead and attach our track bar. Now, they do not measure this out through. You will have to measure it out yourself. So, for most standard lift kits, 33 inches from eye to eye on your track bar is a good starting point. And then once we have it installed, down on the ground and back together, we can go ahead and adjust it, and make sure our axle is completely centered. What we're gonna do is just start to install this. We're gonna install it with our factory hardware. So as you guys can see, our track bar is not lining up. It is a 33 inches, which makes it a great starting point for adjusting to recenter the axle completely. However, we're gonna have to attach that bolt while the Jeep is on its own weight. So what we can do in the meantime is just tighten up our top frame bolt with a 21-millimeter socket and 21-millimeter wrench. Now we are gonna go back and torque everything down but we just wanna make sure that that is tight before we put it down on the ground, everything is intact.So what we can do now is move on to our sway bar end links. And like I mentioned before, this does come with quick disconnect hardware. So we're gonna go ahead and install this now. What I'm gonna do is just insert this pin facing the inside of our axle, putting our flat washer on there, and then our nylon lock nut on the other side. After that is in place, we can take a screwdriver, put that through the hole, make sure that stays in place. You also wanna make sure that it's accessible because that's where your pin is gonna be. So once that's tight, we can actually install our full sway bar end link, making sure that our reserved fitting at the bottom is installed so we can easily maintenance them when need to.So you can thread on that nut that came pre-installed on our end link. And we can grab a 6-millimeter Allen key and a 19-millimeter wrench. We can just go ahead and tighten that down. So once our one sway bar end link is installed, we can move to the passenger side and repeat that same process. And so once you have the lower part of your sway bar end link on your pin, all you have to do is put on your larger washer and we can stick our pin through. All right, and it should sit like that. And then once you need to disconnect your sway bar end link on the trail, you can pull this pin and throw it away and what we're going to install next. So what we can do now is put in our storage pin.So this is gonna come with a bracket. It will be site-specific. You wanna make sure that you have the one for the correct side. Then we're gonna take an 18-millimeter deep socket, remove this body mount bolt. We can put our bracket on, put our bolt back on. Once that is threaded on, we can tighten that down with our same 18-millimeter deep socket. Then we can thread our second pin on. This is gonna be the smaller pin. And it's gonna have four holes for your pin instead of two. And you do have a nut that we need to put on the back of that. You're gonna install this first or after you man it up. It doesn't matter. Now holding the nut on the other side with a 9/16th inch wrench, we can go ahead and just tighten that down. We can just use our screwdriver.So when you get to the trailhead, once you need to disconnect your sway bar end links, you pull this pin at the bottom here, move your whole sway bar up and out of the way, and then you can slide the bottom part of your sidebar end link on here and secure it down with that pin that is attached at the bottom. Now we can repeat that same process for the mount on the other side. So the last thing that we have to do in the front before we go ahead and bolt up our driveshaft is our exhaust spacers. Now, these can be very tricky just because of the placement, also because the bolts tend to rust very quickly from all of the heating up and cooling down that the exhaust does. I recommend to soak them with a penetrant and even use heat on them in order to get them out. Now you will need a 13-millimeter socket and a ratchet in order to remove those. So let's go ahead and do that now.So as predicted, the bolts did break. Now, this is a very common issue so don't be surprised if they do. However, if the bolts do break like ours did, all you have to do is drill out the other side of your exhaust just on the other side of where that nut is where it threads into your flange and then you can put a nut on the other side. So what we can do now is go ahead and install our passenger side spacer. This is gonna be your longer spacer. You may have to take a pry bar and just pry the exhaust away from each other to fit that in. Just make sure that this is separated. You have to kind of play with the exhaust in order to get this in. Push it back as far as you can. And then we can take our provided bolts and the other hardware that you may have to outsource, i.e. the nut and washer on the back. We can go ahead and install that. Now if you have a 2007 to 2011 Wrangler, you won't need to do this. This is just for the 3.6-liter V6 engines. This is just so your driveshaft boot is not sitting on your exhaust after you have thrown off your geometry since it will be sitting at a lower angle.Now normally, these would just thread into the slants that's attached to your catalytic converter. However, we did, again, have to put on some different hardware. Now that our passenger side one is finished, we can go over to our driver side and put in the smaller exhaust loose end. So now we can go ahead and tighten these down. I'm using a 13-millimeter socket and a 13-millimeter wrench. So now we can reinstall our bolts on our driveshaft, making sure that our driveshaft and our axle or our pinion pin is going to be lined up where we marked it. You also wanna make sure that you are applying blue loctite to the threads and we can just thread in those bolts. Now we can just tighten those up with our 15-millimeter swivel socket. Then we can also torque that wall that's on the ground. Now we can go ahead and move to the rear.So the same thing goes for the rear. We do have to support our axle in order to drop it. Then what we can go ahead and do next is take out our rear shocks. So I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench to remove this bottom bolt. Usually, we start with the sway bar. However, it's a lot easier to get our rear shock out of the way in order to access our sway bar. So in order to free up that bolt, you may have to tinker with the height of the axle. So I'm gonna use our 16-millimeter swivel socket and a 15-inch extension to reach our top two shock bolts. Then there's our second. And after we remove both of those, we'll be able to fully remove our shock. So with the bottom shock bolt being bolted in, it does get clamped on here so you can just use a small pry bar and just wiggle out that shock, and you'll be able to fully remove that. Now we can do the same thing on the other side. Now we can use an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench to remove our sway bar link after our shock is removed. And we can do the same thing on the other side.What we can do now is disconnect our rear track bar. We're gonna have to install a rear track bar relocation bracket anyway. But this is gonna allow us to drop our axle to get our springs out. I'm gonna be using a 21-millimeter socket and there should be a flag nut on the back of here, there is. And we can go ahead and remove that. So what we're gonna do next to make sure our brake lines are protected is just to remove them from our frame.I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket in order to do that. So before we drop our axle, we do want to address our brake line bracket for our emergency brake. We are going to remove this bracket and completely discard it. You're gonna need a 10-millimeter deep socket. You can go ahead and remove the two nuts that are holding our bracket. Now we're ready to lower our axle and pop out our springs. So what we can do next is move on to installing our new bump stop. But we first we have to get our factory bump stops out so we can do the same thing we did with the front and twist those out. You may need to use a flat head to get it unhooked from the tags inside of that [inaudible 00:36:02]. So now we can install our new [inaudible 00:36:17], making sure that the angle part, the taper part is facing the rear. You also have a little label saying which part needs to go into the front.So just like we did with our front, we wanna evenly press this in. So I just grabbed our blocks of wood that we used earlier and we're gonna raise our axle to make sure this evenly goes around our [inaudible 00:36:46]. Now we're gonna be doing the same thing with the bump stop. We're gonna make sure that we do this separately. Now that our tubes are in place, we can go ahead and grab our new bump stop and wiggle that into place. Now we are going to press this in, just like we did the tube as well as the front. So we're gonna grab our blocks of wood again to lower the axle just a little bit more. This is all just tinkering with the axle height. Once your blocks of wood are in place, we can go ahead and raise the axle and press in our bump stop. Now we can do the same thing on the other side.So our Jeep already does have bump stop spacers on it. We do need to remove those and add our Teraflex ones. So I'm gonna be using a 9/16th inch wrench as well as a 14-millimeter wrench to remove those. So now we're ready to install our Teraflex bump stop pad. You are going to tell that the holes are offset. You're gonna have a longer portion of your bump stop pad. This longer portion or this more spaced out portion is gonna be facing the front of your Wrangler. And then where the bolt hole is closer to the outside, that's gonna be facing our rear. So that is also for clearance issues as well. So when we get over to the other side of the track bar, you're gonna have to install your bolt on your track bar actually backwards with the nut facing the rear of the vehicle. So this clears. So the half-inch wrench and a 3/16th-inch Allen key, we can go ahead and tighten that down to our axle.Once you get your axle low enough, we'll be able to pop in our springs using our factory isolators. Now we can do the same thing on the other side, you may want to lift it up to make sure your one spray is stationary. What we're gonna do next is attach our lower spring retainer. We're gonna put that on our spring perch, touch the provided hardware. Then we can grab our provided tool by Teraflex, our flange nut, and our lock washer, and go ahead and put back to its place. So once you have that threaded into the flange nut, we can take our 9/16th inch socket and a ratchet, and go ahead and tighten that down. Once that's tightened down, you're gonna repeat that process on the other side.So what we have to do now is install our upper spring retainer. This is making sure that when you're out on the trail, if these flex too far, your spring doesn't pop out of place. There is a hole on the top of our spring perch on the outer side near our frame. We're going to install that there with a nut on the other side of our spring perch. Now it's gonna be a little bit hard to see because this is a tight area. Once your nut is attached, you can take two 19-millimeter wrenches. I'm using a three-quarter inch and 19-millimeter wrench. They're the same size and we are going to go ahead and tighten that up. So once that's tightened down, we can move on to our brake line brackets.So as you can tell, we already do have a drop bracket on our brake line here. This was already installed when we got on our Wrangler. So we're gonna go ahead and remove that and install our one by Teraflex. So you're gonna use an 11-millimeter socket or 11-millimeter wrench if you already have one on there. If not, you're just gonna have to disconnect it from the frame. So what we can do now is grab our new Teraflex bracket. This is gonna be for either side. As you can tell, there's a notch on either side for this tab here. We can leave that loose for just a second and reinstall our actual brake line bolt to our frame, set 10-millimeter factory bolt. I'm just doing this so to stay stationary when we tighten it down. Then we're gonna use that 11-millimeter wrench and 11-millimeter socket, tighten down our new brake line bracket bolt. Once that's tightened down, we can grab our 10-millimeter socket, then we can tighten down our frame bolt. Now you can just repeat that process on the other side.So the Falcon shocks in the rear will relocate on the outside of our shock body. So we do need to install our bottom bolt and sleeve in here. However, we do need to drill out the outside hole in order to install that sleeve. So you're gonna grab a 5/8th inch drill bit and we're gonna go and drill that outside hole. Also grab some safety glasses. You always want to be safe. So once we've drilled that hole, we can install our new bolt. Your sleeve is gonna go on the inside, put our sleeve through, attach our new washer and our new nut. So now we can install our new shock where we removed our old one. Same top mounting location using our factory hardware. I do like on these new Falcon shocks that it doesn't have two teeth. It does have one tooth on the one side and then the other side is an actual hole so you don't have to worry about the shock wiggling out.So, like, after we have those threaded in, we're gonna can take our 16-millimeter socket, or swivel socket, and our extension and tighten those down. With the help of a little PB B'laster on our new shock bolt, we can tinker with our axle height and install our new shock. Now with a 19-millimeter socket and 19-millimeter wrench, we can go ahead and tighten that up. That will see your shock into place. So what we're gonna do now is attach our new sway bar end links. That top stud is gonna go through the top there. We can attach that at our sway bar, then we can line up our bottom and use our factory hardware for the bar. Again, you just have to play around with the axle height in order to get this to line up. Now we can tighten down this top stud with a 19-millimeter wrench and a 6-millimeter Allen key and a ratchet.Now we can tighten this down with an 18-millimeter wrench, an 18-millimeter socket. Because our shock is mounted up already, I am gonna use an extension here. So in order to install our track bar relocation bracket, we do have to remove the bottom bolt on our lower control arm. You're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench. Line that up where you need it to go. We can go ahead and reinstall this bolt before we go ahead and attach the rest of our bracket. Now, since this is one of our control arms, we are going to snug this up, but we're not gonna tighten it down until the Jeep is down in its own weight. So now we can take our U-bolt and attach our hardware. You're gonna have two flat washers and two nuts.So we're not gonna tighten anything down yet. We're gonna grab our new bolt with the provided sleeve, reinstall that where our track bar used to be. We're gonna attach our new supplied nut on the back. It's gonna be a little bit difficult. Then we can go ahead and tighten everything down. So starting with our actual bracket bolt, I am gonna use a 19-millimeter socket and 19-millimeter wrench to go ahead and tighten that down. And we can take that same 19-millimeter socket and tighten up our U-bolt. So once you have your track bar in your bracket, it may line up, it may not. If it's not lining up correctly, we can put the Jeep down on its own weight and you can wiggle the rear end or you could take a rod or an extension and just try to pull it over as best as you can. We were able to get it lined up.What I'm gonna do now is install our factory bolt. It may need a little bit of help going through. So we can grab our flag nut, our factory flag nut and then install them like that. Now it will cap so we can grab our 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down. So now while the Jeep is down on its own weight, we can tighten down our control arms and attach our front adjustable track bar. I have someone in the driver's seat. They're gonna steer the wheels back and forth in order to get this lined up. So if you could turn, driver. Now, there should be a flag nut, however, we do not have a flag nut on here. I'm gonna use a 7/8ths inch wrench and our 21-millimeter socket with an extension to clear our drag link. We can go ahead and tighten that down. Now we can move on to tightening down our control arms. So now with our 21-millimeter wrench and 21-millimeter socket, we can tighten down our control arm bolts. After you've tighten everything down, you do need to torque everything to factory spec. And I would recommend an alignment as well and then you're all set to go.So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe, guys. For more videos like this, always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Performance Lift Kit. The Teraflex 2.5-inch Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with 2.1 Falcon Shocks is developed for upgrading your Jeep Wrangler’s performance both on the street and on the trail. It offers optimized lift heights with its 2.5-inch lift coil springs and preset Sport flexarms. This is what allows you to have improved ground clearance to accommodate larger tires of up to 35 inches in dimension. The suspension kit also offers increased damping for a smoother ride and better off-road performance, thanks to the four Falcon monotube shocks. With this kit, you get upgraded performance without losing your factory ride quality.
Complete Suspension Kit. For a convenient upgrade, this suspension lift kit includes all the components necessary for the build. Both the included Falcon shocks and Teraflex coil springs are designed to improve compression and optimal vehicle stability. Alignment will also be not necessary after installation because of the flexarms, adjustable front track bar, and rear track bar. All these are designed to optimize and correct caster and pinion angles for the 2.5-inch lifted height. It is indeed a package that includes everything you need for a complete setup.
Hassle-Free Installation. With all the necessary components and hardware included in the kit, installation for this suspension lift kit becomes hassle-free. The process requires some cutting, but other than that, everything is straightforward and a simple bolt-on installation. Teraflex also ensures that each kit includes a comprehensive manual for your guidance.
With Teraflex Lifetime Warranty. Teraflex offers its signature lifetime warranty for this suspension lift kit. However, the warranty is limited to the coverage of defects in materials and workmanship only. It does not cover or include product finish, improperly installed or applied products, and those damaged due to abuse or neglect. Only the original purchaser with an original proof of purchase will be granted warranty claims.
Application. This Teraflex 2.5-inch Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit with 2.1 Falcon Shocks is designed for use on 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK 4-door models.
Application Note. This product requires aftermarket wheels with 4.5-inch backspacing or less. Or you can use an Offset Wheel Adapters for stock wheels.
Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
March 31, 2020
Highly recommend to someone who drives a fair amount on the hardtop without compromising your off road fun. Rides great, looks great, high quality parts, all you could ask for. Riding on XD 138 Brute's and 35" Nitto Ridge GrapplerHelpful (2)
August 20, 2019
The suspension Lyft went in easy. Instructions could have been better. After a front bumper upgrade, a rear bumper upgrade with tire carrier, a 12,000 lb Warren Zeon 12s winch. Was too much for the springs. I was quite disappointed with the SAG. My bump stops sit approximately 2" from their plate . And I bottomed out every time I went off road . So , I upgraded to Teraflex Outback 3" Springs to replace my 2.5" that came with the kit. Look for my review on those after I install them and put a load on them.Helpful (6)
January 16, 2019
Lifted and Leveled my Jeep for a much better than stock. Ride quality is better than stock. Havent had a chance to get the Jeep off road since install, but gravel road performance is excellent, and articulation is much betterHelpful (6)
August 22, 2018
Teraflex S/T2 2.5" w/Falcon 2.1 shocks
Install was fairly simple, did it alone. Ride is much improved on road. Have not taken offroad yet. Great upgrade, looks good too.Helpful (14)
Is this kit recommended for use on the road and city day? Is it very rough? thinking that the vehicle uses it without additional weight and 33x12,5 with dirty life wheels 17x9. Thanks!
This will give you great performance on or off road and will offer great responsive handling with reduced noise on the road.
I am looking into a 2.5" lift kit for my 2012 JK Sahara Unlimited. I have been looking at both the Teraflex 2.5 in. Sport S/T2 Suspension Lift Kit w/ Falcon 2.1 Shocks and the Teraflex 2.5 in. Lift Kit w/ 9550 VSS Shocks. Would you be able to give me a comparison of the two? What is the performance difference mostly highway/road (daily driver) with minimal off-road (beach and light trails)? My plan is to run the OEM 17" wheels with 33's for now.
The biggest difference between the kits will be seen in the shocks. The 9550 shocks are an "off the shelf" style shock that will give good performance both on and off road. The Falcon 2.1 shocks are hand built in house at Teraflex and will offer drastically better dampening characteristics on road and off road. For a daily driver the 9550 shocks are typically more than enough shock.
will it fit with stock tires?
Yes, however, if you are keeping factory wheels as well you will need to run 1.5" wheel spacers.
(approx) 6 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box