(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hi, guys. So today we're checking out the Off-road Roof Rack, fitting all 2005 and newer Double Cab Toyota Tacomas. So if you're in search of some exterior storage solutions for your truck, this is gonna be a great choice to take a look into. Now, this roof rack is going to offer the entirety of the roof as space to use as an exterior storage solution. So if you are utilizing your bed already, you don't have any room back there, you still need to carry some extra cargo, or you have things in your cab area that you don't necessarily wanna carry in there, this is going to be a great option to carry any of that extra stuff that you're taking with you on your day-to-day basis or on a trip. Now, this is, again, going to utilize the whole space of your roof and it's gonna come with multiple crossbars as well as multiple tie-down points to make sure that your stuff on top is secure, whether you're carrying large cargo or even some smaller cargo.Now, this is also going to be pretty durable, made of a steel construction, and it is going to nice texture black powder coat finish on top. So it's not only gonna give you an off-road look, but it is going to hold up for the long run and take any abuse even if you are taking your truck out on the trail. Now, what I particularly like about this option is the fact that this is also gonna come with four cube lights right out of the box. Now, this will be great for somebody who's not only looking for extra storage solutions for their truck, but is also looking for some extra lighting solutions. Now, those lights up top are gonna be great for some extra visibility on dark back roads, dark trails, or really whenever you need some extra light, they're even gonna be great if you wanna use it as a work light.Now, I would like to mention that this is not gonna come with a wiring harness, but I do highly recommend purchasing one with the kit. They are pretty affordable and they are very accessible. You can find some right here on our site. Now, overall, I think this adds a very stylish look to the top of the Tacoma. This is going to give a very off-road look as it says in the name, but it is going to be very low profile and sleek, unlike some other choices. Now, speaking of that and speaking of the price, this is gonna be one of your most affordable choices for a full roof rack. Now, with that being said, this is gonna come in at roughly $350. Now, other options on the page that are gonna be set up pretty similar to this are going to be a little bit different in the way that they're constructed. They may have a different setup as far as the crossbars are concerned. They may have light mounting solutions, however, they may not come with lights like this option will, might have a cutout for a light bar, or they may have mounting points for cube lights like this, but they may not come with the lights.Now, on the other hand, some other options may not have a basket-style rack. They may just be for crossbars or larger cargo instead of this one that will accommodate larger and smaller cargo. So it kind of comes down to your personal preference and your application, what you're looking to store up here and what you're looking to get out of your roof rack. But when it comes down to it, I think if you're looking for a very versatile rack, it's gonna add a sleek look to the front-end of your truck and also give you some better visibility. This is gonna be a great choice.Now, as far as install is concerned, I'm gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter just because this doesn't come with a wiring harness. And if you are wiring this into a standalone switch, which I'll show you how to do in just a second, it is gonna take a little bit longer in order to do, probably about an hour to two hours' worth of your time to get the job done with some very basic hand tools. So speaking of that install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for my install were a wire tool, a loom of wire, a soft pry tool, the different types of electrical connectors, a 13-millimeter wrench, 3/8-inch drive and 1/4-inch drive ratchet, a pair of snips, 3-inch extension, a 5-millimeter Allen socket, an extended 4-millimeter Allen socket, a standard 4-millimeter Allen socket, a 12-millimeter and 10-millimeter socket, and the provided Allen key. The first step of our install is taking off this top seal here. There are two mounting locations underneath this seal that come from the factory for a roof rack, and we're gonna utilize those for the off-road roof rack that we're putting on this Tacoma. So I'm gonna take a soft pry tool and just peel up on this seal. Now, it usually is held in by a 3M tape or an adhesive, so it may be a little bit more difficult if you are first taking off the seal. I've already taken it off before, so it is going to come off a little bit easier.So since we've taken off this top seal before, we have a piece of tape here that's covering the mounting locations to protect them. The tape that comes from the factory is actually gonna be the paint code. So it maybe a little bit difficult to see at first, but there is gonna be one on the back as well as the front. I'm just gonna take that same pry tool. This just keeps water or any dirt or dust from getting underneath the seal into the mounting locations. And as you can see, both of those are gonna be at the back, and then we can do the same thing for the front. So now that we have our mounting location exposed, we can mount up our bracket. You wanna make sure that the mount is facing inward. And we can take our provided hardware. For the bracket, it is going to be the smaller Allen head hardware, a lock washer, and a flat washer. And we can thread that into the mounting location. I'm using a 4-millimeter Allen socket. You could also use a 4-millimeter Allen key.This does happen a little bit of adjustability here, so I'm not going to completely tighten it down. I wanna make sure that each side is lining up correctly, and then we can go back and tighten it down to the end once we have everything installed. Then we can repeat that same thing for the back, mounting up our bracket facing the inside, taking our hardware and threading it in with that 4-millimeter Allen. Again, we wanna make sure that we're able to kind of move it around. Not too much, but enough where we can adjust it in the future. And then we can repeat this same process on the other side. What we can do at this point is take our side panel and we can line it up with the brackets in the front and the back. Now, there's gonna be two mounting locations at the bottom, and this is gonna go on the outside of the bracket. I'm just gonna kind of lay it in place for the time being.So once we have the side panel sitting in the general location, what we can do is line it up with the bracket. And we can take our larger hardware. This is the larger Allen head bolt, flat washer lock, washer, and the provided flange nut. And we can put that through the side panel, through the bracket, secure it on the other side. Now, I'm going to loosely install these just like we did with our brackets just to make sure everything is lining up. And then, again, we can go back and tighten everything down. Once the back is secure, we can head up front and do the same thing up there. So after the back is mounted up, we can loosely install the front. Now, I am mounting this in the upper mounting location on the bracket. That's just gonna keep the rack off of the paint, and it is gonna allow the rack to line up just a little bit better. So now that we have this side loosely installed, we can repeat that same process on the other side.So at this point we can install our front cross member. I recommend to have somebody on the other side of the truck to help you install this. It does have a little bit of weight to it, and you don't wanna scratch your paint. This is gonna line up with the front mounting location on the side panels, and we're gonna use our provided hardware which is the same hardware that we use to mount up the side panels, the larger Allen bolt, flat washer, and lock washer. And then this is going to have a Nutsert on the back that we're gonna thread it to.What we can do at this point is install our crossbars. Now, they are gonna be labeled one through five with one being the longest and five being the shortest. Now, we're gonna start up with one up at the front because the roof does taper once it goes towards the back of the truck. So I am just going to lay this across. This doesn't have a lot of weight to it, so you will be able to do this by yourself. You just wanna be very careful of your paint. We can lay this across the truck, making sure that it goes underneath this panel here and then we can just line up either side. Same process with the front. This is going to have a welded nut on the back, so we just need our Allen bolt, flat washer, and lock washer, and we can thread that through the crossbar here or the side bar here into our crossbar. Now, we can repeat this process for the other four crossbars and then we can secure them down on the other side as well. Now that all the crossbars are secured on one side, we can repeat that same process on the other side.What we can do at this point is install our rear crossbar. Now, this is gonna go on the back of our roof rack, right over our antenna. There is gonna be a cutout for our antenna. So make sure that this is facing down and you wanna make sure that you also have your hardware ready because we're gonna bolt it into the back of either of these side pieces with the larger Allen bolt, flat washer, and lock washer, and we're also gonna use the flange nuts that are provided. Now, this is gonna kind of just sit on top of there. So once these two bolts on this side are threaded in, we can thread in the other two, then we can go back and tighten everything down. What we can do at this point is tighten everything up. So I'm gonna start with these brackets on the rail here using an extended 4-millimeter Allen socket just to give myself a little bit of room. Then we can do the same thing on the other side.Now we can tighten up the bracket to the side piece here. I'm gonna use a 5-millimeter Allen socket and I'm also gonna use a 13-millimeter wrench on the other side. Now we can repeat that for the back bracket as well as the other side. Next we can tighten up all of our crossbars here. I am going to give the front crossbar a little bit of a lift just to make sure that it's not touching the paint in the front. And I'm still using that 5-millimeter Allen socket. That's what we're really just gonna use for the rest of this hardware here. Then we can repeat that for the crossbars down the line, and then do the same thing on the other side. Now, for our back crossbar, we're gonna use the same 5-millimeter Allen socket, but we're also gonna use that 13-millimeter wrench from earlier. Then we can repeat that on the other side as well.So now that our roof rack is installed, our next step is to prep our lights so we can mount them onto our roof rack. We are gonna be provided with brackets and hardware in order to do that, and then we can go ahead and wire these in. So what we can do at this point is grab our bracket and we're going to install this on the outer two fins. We're just going to kind of slide it to match the mounting location on the side and the channel on that second fin. Now, when it's kind of lined up there, what we can do is take our provided nut and we can drop that into the channel and then take our provided Allen head bolt, pass that through the light, through the bracket into the nut there that's in that channel. It may be a little bit difficult at first to kind of line everything up, but once you have it threaded, the channel's going to prevent it from moving so you can tighten it further.All right. Once you have one snugged up, we can do the same thing on the other side of the light, and then we can start to tighten it up completely, making sure that that bracket is kind of lined up to where we want our light to be positioned. And we can go back and adjust it if need be. So I wouldn't recommend to tighten it completely down, I would leave a little bit of wiggle room because we will have to adjust these, but... Then we can repeat this process for the other three lights.What we can do at this point is a mount up our lights. Now, we're gonna have four slots that are gonna be elongated. Those are gonna be where we're gonna mount up our lights. There are three other locations on the top of the front crossbar. We're gonna use the oval ones. So what I'm gonna do is take our provided bolts and pass that through the bracket and through the front part of the cross member or the crossbar here. Then we can take the provided lock washer and nut and we can mount that up into place. Now we can tighten down the hardware that's holding on our light. So I'm gonna use a 13-millimeter socket in order to tighten this down. Now, we don't need a wrench up top because there is a small ridge there that's gonna keep the bolt head still. Then we can repeat that process for the other three lights.So now that all the lights are mounted up, what we need to do is wire them all in. Now, these are gonna have just leads coming off of the light. This does not include a wiring harness in the kit, however, I do recommend wiring these up with a wiring harness. We do have a couple available on our sites. They are very easily accessible and they are pretty affordable to get. Now, those are gonna be a little bit safer and they are gonna be a little bit easier to install. They do usually have relays and inline fuses installed on them as well as a switch, so it does make the process a little bit easier. Now, if you don't have a wiring harness, I'm gonna show you how to independently wire all of these into a 12-volt switch. Now, you're gonna need a couple of things for this. You're gonna need some excess wire, some butt connectors, and some spade connectors, as well as a wire tool that can strip wire crimp the butt connectors as well as cut the wires. So now what we can do is just take our excess wire and start wiring all of these lights together so we can run the power to our switch and then we can get it all connected to the battery.So what I'm gonna do is start with the farthest light away from the driver's side. Our battery is on the driver's side, so I'm gonna run all of the wires towards the driver's side, and we're gonna extend the wires over to that first light. And once all of the wires are extended, then we'll put those all into another wire that'll go to our switch. So I'm just going to kind of measure out how long we need our wire to be. So this point I've measured out the wire. So what I'm gonna do is just extend the leads. Now, I do recommend using different colored wire for this. If you are using the same color wire, that's fine. Just make sure that you have an eye on which one is the positive and which one is the negative so you don't cross them. But now I'm just gonna strip the wire and then we can connect them to our positive and our negative lead. I'm just gonna use a connector here, crimp that down onto the wire that's coming out of the light.So once you have a butt connector on each of the positive and the negative coming from our light, we can add our extended wire. Just crimp that down just like we did. Put this aside and we can move on to our second light. So now that the wires on our cute lights are extended, we do need to wire them into the switch. Now, we're gonna wire the positive on our cube lights into the switch wire, and that's going to actuate the lights going on and off. Now, we also need to wire into the switch, a positive and a negative to go to our battery.Now, what I did to kind of prepare for wiring this all together was measured out a couple looms of wire and passed them through the firewall so we could access them inside the engine bay as well as inside our cab area. Now, you can do this on the right side of the Breakmaster cylinder. There's a large grommet where you can pass them through. On the engine bay side, you'll be able to access them right behind the battery, and in the cab area, it's up on the upper left-hand corner right next to the brake pedal. So this makes it very easily accessible, very easy to wire up. So this yellow wire is going to act as our switch wire for the power wire on our lights. So I'm gonna run this up towards our roof rack and wire in this to our power and then we can come back and wire everything into our power on the battery as well as the negative on the battery and then ground our lights up top.So what I'm gonna do is take our switch wire and we're gonna run it up along this windshield channel and connect it into our lights. Now, again, I would pre-measure this before doing this. I actually have it still on the loom and we can adjust from there and then once we have to wire up our switch, then we can cut the wires so they are the correct measurement. So what I'm gonna do is just take this and put this underneath our seal here. So it might be easier to lift this up with a soft pry tool just to get that wire up and through. I'm gonna put that seal back down. And then as you can see, it will sit in this channel. If you want to use a black wire, you definitely can to make it look a little bit more discreet, or you could fill this with automotive tape. You can really clean it up however you'd like. But at this point now that it is up at the top and we'll be able to reach our wires up there, we can wire it into our lighting.So at this point, what we're gonna do is collect all of our positive wires and we're gonna wire them into one butt connector that's going to wire into this one. Now, this kind of looks like a mess right now. However, once everything is wired together, we'll be able to utilize these mounting points to zip tie and tuck all of the wiring. Then we can take the wire for our switch. Put that into the other side. So at this point, we can do the same thing that we did with our positive with our negative now, but we are not going to have a wire that's going to run inside the cab area to a switch. We're just gonna ground this inside the engine bay. Now, I would recommend that you pre-measure this out. You can ground it wherever you'd like, but we're gonna continue that process with the negative leads.Now we can wire in our ground. I usually like to add a connector that we can hook into a bolt, kind of comes down to your personal preference on that one as well. But we're gonna strip the wire and connect this just like we did the other butt connectors. So while we're here, we can attach it to our ground. There's gonna be a bolt on the upper quarter panel or a fender here. I'm gonna take a 10-millimeter socket and just remove that bolt. Then I'm gonna put the connector on our bolt. Make sure that this...the wire is out of the way, then we can thread that back in. So what we can do at this point, now that we're finished with our ground wire, we can wire in our positive wiring. Now, I have an inline fuse here. If you have one accessible to you, I would highly recommend installing this with your wiring. If you're just doing a standalone switch.Now, if you have a wiring harness, you're probably gonna have this already integrated into the wiring harness. But if you do have one laying around, great, you can definitely use it in this application. And I'm gonna use this here. So I am just going to splice this into each other and then put the connector on this end so we have a fuse in between our battery as well as our power source or our light. So I'm just gonna take the similar connector that we had on the ground, connect it to our fuse here. Then we can just use a standard connector for the other side. So we can leave these here for the time being. Once we have our switch installed, we can install these on the battery, but now we can head inside our cabin area and get our switch ready.So what we can do now is prep our 3 wires to be installed on our just standard 12-volt switch here. Now, you can install this wherever you'd like. If you want to drill into your cab area, if you have a switch that is just a stick-on switch that you're utilizing, you could put that wherever you'd like. I'm just gonna mount it up underneath our steering wheel here just so it's accessible. And this is also just going to keep it out of the way and keep these wires out of the way of the footwell area. So what I'm gonna do, as you can see, there's three prongs on the back of this switch. We have one ground, the middle is power, and the last one is the actuator. That's where the power for our lights is gonna go so we can open and close the circuit. So those are going to accept a spade connector. I'm gonna put a spade connector on all three of these wires so we can connect it to our switch.So the blue is gonna be our ground. And this just depends on your color code. So whatever wires you chose, it's just gonna depend on that. Red is gonna be our power from the battery. And then the yellow is gonna be attached to our power on our lights. So when the power is connected here and we open up the circuit, the power is gonna be transferred from here into our lights, and that's gonna be our yellow wire. Now, that's gonna pretty much be the last of it as far as adding connectors. Now, these are heat shrink connectors. I would recommend after you test all of your lighting, to just go back and heat shrink these down. You can electrical-tape them just to make sure they're safe and sound and they're not getting any water, or debris, dust, or anything inside the connector itself that can harm the actual connection of it. But once this is all together, everything is attached to our wires, what we can do is add them to our switch. So, again, blue is gonna be ground. That's gonna be our gold or bronze prong all the way at the end. Middle's gonna be our power from the battery. And then the last one is gonna be the switch wire or the power for our lights.Awesome. Now you can clean up this wiring, so if you wanna just tuck it in here and mount it up just like this, you can. Just be careful of your steering wheel. You just wanna clean up all this excess wire. If you have any, you can take a couple of zip ties and just tuck them up. You wanna make sure that any excess wire is not hanging down by your pedals. But our last step is to go back inside the engine bay and connect our two leads to our battery. So with a 10-millimeter socket, I'm gonna take off this nut here so we can attach our leads to our battery terminal. Then we can take a 12-millimeter socket and remove the accessory nut for the positive terminal. Tighten that back up with the 12-millimeter socket. So now that everything is wired in and connected, what I would recommend to do at this point is just go back and talk all of your wiring, clean it up to your personal preference. Use, again, a couple of zip ties or whatever you'd like to use, and then you're all good to go.So that is going to wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you subscribe for more videos and products just like this, and always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
High-Quality Load Carrier. Boost your Double Cab’s storage capacity, functionality, and overall style by installing the Off-Road Roof Rack. This trail rack offers a stylish and tough platform for transporting your various outdoor gears on your truck’s roof. It is fittingly configured to match your vehicle’s appealing exterior with its sleek, aerodynamic design.
Tough and Black. This Off-Road Roof Rack is crafted using high-quality materials with a remarkable lightweight strength. It comes in a bold, black powder-coated finish for absolute protection from abrasion, corrosion, and other damages typically experienced in dynamic off-road adventures. Moreover, the crossbars come with holes so that you can securely mount your various cargo items.
Bolt-On Installation. This Roof Rack is designed for a simple, hassle-free installation with no drilling necessary. It fits perfectly well with your vehicle’s roof and installs with light to moderate mechanical skills and basic hand tools required.
Application. The Off-Road Roof Rack is specifically designed to be used on 2005-2021 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab models.
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 1 Hour
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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