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Hi, guys. So, today, we're checking out the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit, fitting all 2005 and newer 4-wheel-drive Toyota Tacomas. So, if you're looking to add some extra height to your truck, whether that's for ground clearance or off-road, or to fit more aggressive tires, a lift kit is always a great place to start, and this option by Supreme Suspensions is gonna be one that you'll want to take a look into. When it comes to what size tire you can fit with this lift kit, I would recommend a 31-inch tire, either the stock one or a more aggressive 31. You won't need to do any modifications to fit a more aggressive 31-inch tire, and will have plenty of clearance. Now, if you wanted to run a 33-inch tire with this kit, you will need to do some modifications, otherwise, you're gonna have some rubbing issues. The clearance will still be a little tight with 33s, so this will best be suited for on-road driving only.Now, this kit is gonna have a spacer for the front struts, a spacer for the back leaf springs, and this is also gonna come with a differential drop spacer and a skid plate drop spacer. Now, this is going to achieve better ground clearance, so this will be great if you're looking to take your truck off-road and you're looking to get over obstacles a little bit easier. Again, this is also going to open up a lot of room in the wheel well area for more aggressive tires, and, of course, this is going to level out the rake, and create a more defined and more aggressive stance to the truck itself. Now, I would like to call out the fact that the spacer for the front itself is going to measure out to roughly 1.5 inches. But because of the suspension geometry and the spring compression after these are installed, the end result is going to be 3 inches of lift in the front.Now, these spacers are also going to be very durable. All of them are made of a billet aluminum material, so you can ensure that they are going to hold up on your truck for the long run once they're installed, and they're gonna have a nice black anodized finish on top, to protect that aluminum underneath from any corrosion. Now, speaking of pricing, this will come in at roughly $250. And in my personal opinion, I think that that's a good price for what this lift kit comes with. Now, in comparison to some other options on the page, it's usually gonna come down to what is included in the lift kit, the size of lift kit, and what the lift kit is made of. Now, of course, this is going to come with the front and the rear spacers, as well as spacers for the skid plate and the differential.Now, some other less expensive options may not come with these spacers for the differential and the skid plate, and they may not even come with spacers in the back. Now, on the other hand, more expensive choices are usually going to be for a higher lift height, or they're going to have extra components like a sway bar spacer, or they may even come with control arms included in the kit. Now, overall, I personally think for what you're getting out of the kit, the quality, and that it comes with some accommodating features for those different components, to get rid of any excessive wear after the lift kit is on, that that is a good price point, and it's definitely well worth that price point.When it comes to install, I'm gonna give this a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. You'll need a little bit of mechanical know-how in order to get this done, but it's probably gonna take you about four hours to get the job done with some pretty basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for this install were a can of PB B'laster, a pair of needle nose pliers, a pair of vise grips, pneumatic impact wrenches, a tape measure, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a flathead screwdriver, a breaker bar, a couple of pry bars, a ball-peen hammer, a dead blow, a punch, a trim removal tool, a 7/8-inch wrench, 19-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 14-millimeter wrench, 19-millimeter swivel socket, a socket set ranging from 22 millimeters down to 10 millimeters, a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a marker, a pick, a 3-inch extension, an angle grinder, a pair of safety glasses, painter's tape, a cut-off wheel, and an electric impact wrench.So, the first step of our install is to get the truck up in the air and supported. Now, I have it on a lift here, but if you are at home, you can use a jack and jack stands for this install, and then our next step is to take off our front tire. Now, I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket and my spline key. However, the tool that you use may depend on what lug nut size that you have. So, after the tire is off, what we can do at this point is address our brake lines. There's gonna be a brake line bracket on the spindle, one on the frame, and then we're gonna have one on the upper control arm. For this step, you're gonna need a 12-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter socket.So, I'm gonna remove the bracket on the spindle first, using a 12-millimeter socket. Now, I'm also using a 3-inch extension to give myself a little bit of room next to this brake caliper here. Once that's removed, you can take out the little hook that's in the spindle, and we can just push it back. This is going to allow us to remove our spindle from this upper control arm and not have our brake lines affected, stressed out, or taut in the meantime. We wanna keep those protected, just because we don't want to break them. We would have to replace them if so. Next, we're can remove the brake line bracket on the frame. I'm also gonna use that 12-millimeter socket and the 3-inch extension.So, what we can do now is remove the brake line from our upper control arm. Now, what I'm gonna do is remove the bracket as a whole, but you can bend back these tabs and remove the line from there. I just find it easier to just remove the whole bracket. So, I'm using a 10-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna take out that bolt. So, what we can do at this point is remove the cotter pin in the outer tie rod. We do need to disconnect this from the knuckle, or the spindle here, in order to get our strut out. So, I'm gonna take a pair of needle nose pliers. I also sprayed this with PB B'laster, just to loosen that up, but I'm gonna take that pair of needle nose pliers and I'm gonna go ahead and remove that cotter pin. What we can do at this point is remove the castle nut up top. I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket to remove that nut there. So, the outer tie rod might not drop out right away. What we can do at this point is take the castle nut and thread that on a couple of threads. And then we can take a hammer and just hit the side of the knuckle, or the side of the spindle here, and it should release that ball joint. You may need to give it some downward pressure. You can just take a pry bar.So now that the ball joint released from the knuckle here, what we can do is just remove it completely. Thread that back on, because we'll be reattaching that a little bit later, and then we can disconnect our sway bar. What we can do next is remove the sway bar end link from our spindle. I'm gonna be using a 17-millimeter socket, and we can remove this nut. Now, if the ball joint decides it wants to spin, what we can do is just take that pry bar that we used before and just give it some outward pressure, and it should stop it from spinning. So, if you were unable to get the hardware for the sway bar end link off with a 17-millimeter socket and that impact wrench, what you can do is remove it with a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a ratchet, and a 17-millimeter wrench. This is just going to allow you to keep the ball joint still while you are removing that hardware. If you do use an impact wrench, sometimes that can move, and even if you put pressure on it, sometimes it just keeps spinning. So, this is an alternative method that works pretty well, just takes a little bit longer. So, I'm gonna use that 17-millimeter wrench. I'm gonna put that on the nut side, and same with the 6-millimeter Allen socket. Once that's removed, we'll be able to remove our sway bar from our spindle.So, the sway bar end link wanted to stay in the spindle. In order to get it out, what I'm gonna do is just take a punch, and we can put that where we put the 6-millimeter Allen socket. I'm also gonna take a dead blow, and we can just tap that out. So, now, what we can do is remove the upper control arm ball joint from our spindle here. Now, we need to remove this cotter pin. I'm gonna use the same pair of needle nose pliers that I used before. After the cotter pin is removed, we can remove the castle nut. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter swivel socket. So, what I'm gonna do is take that completely off, then I'm gonna thread it back on just a couple of threads. Again, we have to tap the ball joint out of the spindle, because the ball joint is tapered. So, it usually just sticks there like it did with the other two. So, again, we're gonna have to take a ball-peen hammer and tap that out of the spindle. Then the nut there is gonna catch it. That's why we thread it on a little bit.There we go. Once that pops out of place, what we can do is continue to remove that 19-millimeter nut. And now, when we do this, the spindle is going to fall. Just make sure that you have a hand on the spindle. We're gonna carefully lay it to the side, because we will need to remove our strut assembly in just a couple minutes. But we don't want to stress out any of the joints, any of the brake lines. We wanna make sure that those are protected. So make sure you keep a handle on this. As you can see, that is disconnected. Now what we have to do is repeat that process on the other side, because we will need to move our sway bar out of the way in order to remove our strut assembly.So, after you've taken apart the other side, what we can do is start to work on our strut assembly. We're gonna have three studs at the top. I'm gonna take a 14-millimeter socket and I'm gonna remove that hardware up there. So, after the hardware is taken out of the top of the strut, what we can do is take out this lower strut bolt. Now, for this, I have a 19-millimeter wrench and 19-millimeter deep socket, and I would also recommend that you support the lower control arm when doing this. Now, to remove this bolt, you might have to play with the height of the control arm itself. So it looks like we'll need to raise it just a hair. So, what I just did was lowered this down a little bit. Like I said, you will have to kind of play with the height of the lower control arm in order to get this bolt loosened up, so that you can just push it right through.So, what I'm gonna do is just push that bolt through and remove it. So, what you can also do, just like we did with the sway bar, is just take a punch. This makes it a little bit easier if it doesn't wanna come out fully by hand. And you can just tap it through. Now, again, we're gonna have to kind of mess with the height here. You may have to move this spindle around in order to do this. So, in order to make room to remove the strut assembly, what I did was pull the sway bar all the way down. The sway bar end link does have to pass that axle, so once it's pulled all the way down, the tie rod is pulled most of the way out. What we can do is just push the strut towards our brake rotor here, or towards the spindle, and we should be able to just pop that out of the way. So, once the strut assembly is out on this side, what we can do is repeat that process on the other side, and then we can install our spacers.So, now that the struts are out of the truck, what we can do is add our spacer. Now, these are gonna have cutouts for each of the factory studs, so really, all we have to do is place this on top and secure it down with the factory hardware. So, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket just to hand thread these on. So, once they're all threaded on, what we can do is take an impact wrench or a ratchet and tighten those up. And then we can repeat that for the other strut. What we can do now with our strut in hand is make sure that the two mounting locations at the front are facing forward, and then we can put our strut up in place. What we can do at this point is secure the top of our strut, now that our differential is dropped. So I'm gonna use the bolt, lock washer, and flat washer that's provided in the kit, and thread that into the top of the strut spacer. Now with a 16-millimeter socket and a ratchet, I'm gonna tighten up the three bolts on the top.What we can do now is take our factory lower strut bolt, and we can pop that through. You might have to tinker with the height of the lower control arm. You can use a pole jack or a jack stand, or a floor jack to do so. What I'm gonna do is just pop that bolt through. If you need to, you can use the punch and the dead blow that we used before, just to pop that through the other side. Then we can secure that down with the factory bolt, and we can tighten down our strut assembly and move to the other side. Next, we can tighten up this lower bolt here. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, you may need a 19-millimeter wrench as well, if the bolt head spins. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not. Next, we can move up top. So, after you've installed the strut on the other side, we'll be able to move the sway bar freely, so we can get it back into its place. But first, we're going to attach our spindle here. So we're just gonna pop the spindle back up into place so we can attach it to the upper control arm. So, once you have the spindle lined up with the upper control arm, you may have to loosen the upper control arm in order to get this to fit, or just drop down far enough in order for you to get a couple threads. You can raise up on the lower control arm. Just be mindful of your lift points when you're doing this.So, I'm just using a small pry bar just to pry down on the upper control arm, just so we can get a couple of threads on. Now, it might be helpful to loosen the upper control arm in order to get it to drop down far enough, or you could use a small pry bar like I just did. And then what we can do at this point is tighten down this nut here and reattach our cotter pin, so it's set at the correct angle. And then, we can button up our sway bar end link, as well as our outer tie rod. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter swivel socket that we originally used to remove this. Then we can take our cotter pin, put that through. Then we can install our sway bar end link and our outer tie rod.Then, making sure that the sway bar end link is at the correct height, which it should be if the other side is attached, we can put that through our spindle, take our factory nut, thread that on, and we can tighten that up with a 17-millimeter socket. Next, we can take our outer tie rod. We can line that up with our knuckle here. So, now, we can align our outer tie rod. You may have to move the knuckle itself back and forth in order to get this lined up. Then we can take our factory castle nut, thread that on. We can take a 19-millimeter socket and tighten that up. And once that's tightened up, you wanna make sure that the castle nut aligns with the hole on the stud there on the ball joint, because we have to put in a new cotter pin. And I recommend to put in a new cotter pin, because the old ones can get pretty rusty, and they wear out. I'm just using a pair of needle nose pliers. When the cotter pin's through, you just wanna make sure that you bend back with the longer part. Make sure that it stays in place.Once that's in place, what we can do is re-attach our brake lines. First, we can attach our brake line bracket on the spindle. Thread that factory bolt in by hand, tighten that up with a 12-millimeter socket. Next, we can attach our upper control arm brake line bracket, and the one that's on the frame. I'm gonna do the control arm bracket first, using that 10-millimeter bolt that we originally used. And I'm also going to use a 10-millimeter socket to tighten that up. Next, we can attach the brake line bracket that's on the frame here. I'm gonna be using that 12-millimeter factory bolt and 12-millimeter socket. So, once you finish up on this side, you would repeat the same process on the other side. Now we're gonna throw our tires back on, and then head to the rear.So now that we're in the rear, the first few things that you wanna do is take off the rear tires, and you also want to support the rear axle. Now, we will be dropping it down, so if you are at home on a jack and jack stands, I recommend using a floor jack as well as jack stands, to support that rear axle. Because I'm using a lift, I'll be using the pole jacks here. But our first step after those are taken care of is to disconnect our emergency brake line. So, over on the side, we are gonna have a bracket that's connected to our leaf spring, that's holding our e-brake line. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket to remove the bolt that's holding that bracket on. That'll give us a little bit of room to work with when it comes to lowering our axle.Next, we can disconnect the lower shock bolt. Now, we don't have to completely remove the shock. We just need to disconnect it from the axle, to allow the axle to drop. So, in order to do this, I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter socket and wrench, and we're just gonna remove that bolt. So, next, we can remove the lower shock bolt. Now, we don't need to remove the shock. We just need to disconnect it from the axle, to drop our axle, or allow the axle to drop. So I'm gonna use a 17-millimeter wrench and a 17-millimeter socket to remove that bolt. So, you might have to kind of play with the axle height in order to loosen that up, or get it to wiggle out. Put a little pressure on it, then you can pull it out of the mount itself. Now that our shock is disconnected, what we can do is disconnect the U-bolts that are holding on our leaf spring. Now, this is where we are going to insert our block, so we want to remove the U-bolts completely. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter socket on my impact wrench to remove the hardware that's holding on our U-bolts. I also recommend to hit it with a little bit of PB B'laster, just because these can get pretty rusty.So, once the hardware and the bottom plate is removed, what we can do is just remove our U-bolts. So, what we can do at this point is carefully lower down our axle, so we can fit in our block here. So, the alignment dowel is gonna sit in the mount on the axle, and then there's gonna be a hole up at the top for the factory one. Now, in order to get that aligned, you may have to kind of shift the axle, or you could also move the leaf spring. I find it a little bit easier to move the axle. What we can do at this point is take our provided U-bolts. These are going to be longer, to accommodate for that 2-inch block. We're gonna put that over the bracket up on top of our leaf spring that holds them in place. Now, once those are there, we can take our factory mount, or our factory bracket, and we can align this with our U-bolts.Because the U-bolts are new, you may have to actually pinch the U-bolts in order to get them to slide through the bracket. You also wanna make sure that this curve is sitting right on the curve of the axle here. So, you may push the rear one out of place. It's fine. We can just move it back. And do the same thing. Just kind of pinch it to get it through. You wanna make sure that it's sitting flush with the axle and that it's also sitting...that the U-bolt at the top is sitting inside the hooks on that upper bracket. So, it should stay in place for the time being, because the U-bolts are pushing outward. So, then we can grab our provided hardware, which is gonna be the four flat washers and four nuts, and we can thread those onto the bottom of the U-bolt. What we can do at this point is take a 22-millimeter socket, and we're gonna tighten up these bolts in a star pattern, or a crisscross pattern.So, now we can reconnect our shock, using the factory hardware. You are gonna have to lift the axle up. And when you're doing this, I would just keep an eye on your lift points, because you don't wanna push the truck off the lift. So, what we can do now is attach the bottom part of our shock with the factory hardware. Now, we will have to manipulate the height of the axle. You're gonna have to raise it up. So when you're doing this, I would just keep an eye on your lift points on the truck. You don't wanna push the truck off of those points. So, since the U-bolts are a little bit longer, what I'm gonna do is use that 17-millimeter socket with my breaker bar on the bolt head side, and my 17-millimeter wrench on the nut side.So, now that our shock is reconnected, our next step would be to reconnect our emergency brake line bracket. Now, because we added 2 inches of lift, this dropped the axle, and the bracket is not lining up properly to the leaf spring. Now, with this, you don't necessarily have to reconnect this bracket, because there's less slack now that the axle is dropped , and there's also a secondary bracket that's up on the frame. So if you'd like to cut this off, you could definitely do so with a cut-off wheel. I am not gonna cut our bracket, but you can take a cut-off wheel and get this bracket off of there.Now, at this point, what we can do is put on our tires. We're all wrapped up with the lift kit, so what I would recommend is to torque everything down to spec, and to take your truck for an alignment, and then you'll be all set to go.So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this, and always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
CNC-Machined Billet Aluminum Front and Rear Spacers
CNC-Machined Billet Aluminum Differential Drop & Skid Plate Spacers
Bolt-On, No-Mod Installation
Limited Lifetime Warranty
Fits All 2005 to 2023 Toyota Tacoma 4WD 6-Lug Models
Brand
Supreme Suspensions
Lift Height
3.00 Inch
Lift Kit Type
Spacer Lift
Lift Kit Max Tire Size
33 Inch
Lift Kit Includes Shocks
Shocks Not Included
Description
Better Ground Clearance with an OE Feel. Give your Toyota Tacoma better ground clearance, while keeping its OE ride comfort and feel with the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit. This lift kit adds 3 inches front, and 2 inches rear lift without radically changing your drivetrain and suspension configuration, so your Toyota Tacoma drives the same. Besides better ground clearance, this lift kit levels the front to the rear, improving your truck’s stance.
Precision-Crafted Blocks & Spacers. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit manages its lift by using lift blocks and spacers that are CNC-machined from solid billets of 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum. This solid construction results in components that are extremely strong, lightweight, and durable compared to welded or even cast spacers. Also, the rear and front spacers are hard anodized in black for additional protection against corrosion.
Available with Differential Drop & Skid Plate Spacers. Included with the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit are skid plate, and differential drop spacers. These spacers are also CNC-machined from 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum, offering just as much strength as the lift spacers. The differential spacers work to lower your Tacoma’s front differential to avoid wear on the CV joints. The skid plate spacers, on the other hand, keep the skid plate from rubbing against your newly modified suspension components.
Trouble-Free Bolt-On, Installation Without Modifications. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit bolts-on directly using factory locations, without the need for modifications. This kit includes all mounting hardware for a trouble-free install procedure. Please note that a wheel alignment is recommended after installation.
A Limited Lifetime Warranty Backing. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit is backed by a limited lifetime warranty covering material and workmanship defects. Please visit the manufacturer’s website for more details.
Application. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit fits all 2005 to 2023 Toyota Tacoma 4WD 6-Lug models.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
