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Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front / 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit (05-22 4WD Tacoma)

Item TT2122
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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Joe from Extreme Terrain and today I'm gonna be reviewing and installing the Supreme Suspensions 3-inch run 1-inch rear Pro Billet lift kit, fitting all '05 and newer four-wheel drive Tacomas. Something like this is going to be perfect for the Tacoma owner who's looking to use their truck for all that it's worth while sticking to a budget-friendly price. This is going to allow you to mount larger tires, create more ground clearance, and a better overall off-road performance, again, all at a cost-effective price. This kit features a CNC machine billet aluminum 3-inch lift for the front and a steel 1-inch lift block for the rear. Now, most of the Tacomas, and all trucks for that matter, come out of the factory with a little bit of what's called rake, meaning the front is going to sit lower than the rear of the truck. Now, that's to counteract any added weight if you have something heavy in the bed or if you're towing something, it would then level out. But if you're not doing that as often, it's more of a looks thing and this kit is going to bring the truck level as well as lifted in general, hence three inches in the front and one inch in the rear.Now, most lift kits will change the angle and put more stress on your CV axles. This kit counteracts that by giving you an included differential drop and all the hardware you need to mount that. As far as tire sizing goes, this kit is going to allow you to very comfortably fit a 31 underneath of your truck, which is what we have on our Tacoma today. Now, as far as the 33 goes, I put a set on there just to show you guys what it might look like and I do think it will catch a fender liner under extreme circumstances. So, if you plan on tackling any large obstacles, you might have to do a little bit of trimming to make that 33 clear 100% of the way. If you're a daily driver doing some light off-roading now and again, the 33 will fit underneath your Tacoma very comfortably. Supreme offers this same kit with a bunch of options as well. On the low end, you could get just the front spacers for about a 2-inch lift in the front, and if you wanted to go more extreme than this Supreme sells the 3-inch front with a 2-inch rear lift lock as well.Now, with the body lift kit like this, you are going to get some added ground clearance as well. Now, this isn't a full-on comprehensive suspension lift kit, so don't expect to be doing those double black diamonds when it comes to the off-road park, but the added ground clearance is definitely something to think about. Now, speaking of a comprehensive suspension, lift pricing for this is going to come in at around 185 bucks. Now for that price, you're going to get added ground clearance. You're going to get room to stuff a bigger tire under your Tacoma, and you're going to get better overall off-road performance all for a 10th of the price of that comprehensive suspension lift. Also included in that price tag is going to be unlimited lifetime warranty from Supreme Suspension.Now, before we move on to the install, I just wanted to make a quick note. This kit is only going to work on six-lug, four-wheel drive Tacomas. Now, speaking about the install, this one is going to be pretty tough. I'm gonna give it a three out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter, but it should only take you around four hours. And as everything here is a straight bolt on, we're not disassembling a strut assembly or anything really tough like that. So, without any further ado, let me show you how it's done.Optional tools for this install are going to include a pair of gloves, PB blaster, and black spray paint. Necessary tools are gonna be eye protection, some impacts, pry bar, 16 and 14-millimeter ratcheting wrenches help a ton. Seven-eighths-inch wrench, 19 and 17-millimeter wrench, hammer, a basic socket set ranging from 22-millimeters to 10-millimeters. U-joint, tape measure, needle nose pliers, channel locks, die grinder, and a cut-off wheel. Now, tools not pictured in this shot are going to be a pole jack and a floor jack.So, first things first, obviously, we have to get our wheels off. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to undo the lugs. So, first, we don't wanna put any stress on our brake lines, so we're gonna undo those brackets using a 12 and 10-millimeter socket. And on that brake line bracket, there's gonna be an ABS line bracket as well. We're gonna disconnect that with a 10-millimeter socket. So, while we're on that ABS line, I'm gonna use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull back the tab holding that to the upper control arm. So now we're going to move on to the tie rod and we're gonna use those same needle nose pliers to get the cotter pin out of the way. And then we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket to remove that castle nut. So, our tie rod is stuck in there. So, what we're going to do is use a mallet to tap that collar and knock it loose. So now we're gonna do our sway bar end link 17-millimeter socket. We're actually gonna do the same thing for the other side as well so we can have the entire sway bar loops. Now that this nut is seized a little bit, you could work a little bit of wiggle room loose here on the end link and then use a small pry bar and some PB blaster to work that loose.So now we're gonna move on to the upper ball joint. The first step there is to get the cotter pin out of the way with some needle nose pliers then the nut with a 19-millimeter socket. We're probably going to have to tap that collar with a hammer to release it and then our knuckle should pull away from the control arm. So, we're just gonna put that castle nut back on so this doesn't fall apart once that ball joint releases. And just like the tie rod, we're gonna hit this collar with a hammer in order to shock it and release that ball joint. So, we have that ball joint released through a pole jack underneath our lower control arm just to support it a little bit. But at that point, you can pull down on the upper control arm, take that castle nut back off, and it should release.So now we're gonna move on to the bottom strut mount, 19-millimeter wrench and socket to break that loose. And we can get that washer out of the way and then give this a couple taps to get it out. So now we have the bottom of the strut disconnected. I'm gonna take the support off of this pole jack here, get that out of the way, and then work on the top of the strut assembly. And while you're doing this, it's a good idea to keep an eye on the brake line brackets. Now, as you drop your brake assembly, you wanna do that slowly and make sure that it's resting in a position where you're not stressing your brake line or ABS line. For this step, a ratcheting wrench helps tremendously as we're going to remove those three nuts holding on the top of our strut assembly, they're 14-millimeters.So now this strut assembly is completely free. The only thing that will be holding you up is this sway bar right here. We're gonna get started on the other side just so we can get some room and completely pivot that of the way. Before we leave this, though, check on your brake lines and make sure they're not under any tension. So, we're gonna start with the brake line bracket. Again, that's a 12-millimeter socket. And also this one on the knuckle here. Then a 19-millimeter socket for that castle nut. We're going to thread that back on to catch when that ball joint releases. And then, again, it's a 19-millimeter wrench and 19-millimeter socket for the lower strut assembly bolts. Then we can remove this washer, support the lower control arm with a pole jack, and tap out the bolt. And now we're just gonna do the top again with a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench.So now we have pretty much everything on both sides of the truck disconnected. We're ready to drop out our strut assemblies. So, in order to do that, I'm gonna push the studs up through their holes and bring the bottom around its perch. Actually, I'm gonna bring the sway bar up just a tear. Then push up, bring the bottom mounting point out of its perch, should drop down, push up on the upper control arm, and it should pull right out. So now we're just gonna do the same thing for the other side. So, before we mount our strut spacers, we're actually gonna drop our differential and our first step to that is to get rid of the skid plate, it's held on by 4 bolts and they're 12 millimeters. And with those four bolts out, this will kind of swing down towards you, then you can take it off the hooks and remove it.So with the skid plate removed, you can see one of the common things you might have to do when doing a transfer case drop on your Tacoma. This is the spacer block. That's gonna get installed between this transfer case arm here and the cross member. Now, if we drop this bolt, drop our transfer case and install this, we're gonna hit this arm on our skid plate reinforcement right here. Now, this is going to have to be cut away, so we're gonna use a 17-millimeter socket to get that off, put it in a vice, then use the cutoff wheel to cut this lip out. Thankfully, this cutting we'll have to do will only apply to the driver's side skid plate reinforcement. So, I put some blue painter's tape down on our skid plate reinforcement just so you can better see where I'm gonna be cutting this. The measurement should be about three-and-a-half inches in parallel with the top of the brace, about an inch deep.So, we have our skid plate reinforcement cut, debird [SP], I hit it with a layer of black spray paint just to prevent any corrosion. And now we can reinstall it back onto the truck. So, next, we could throw a pull jack underneath our transfer case and loosen up the transfer case mounting bolt. That is a 22-millimeter socket for the bolt and a 19-millimeter wrench for the nut. Next, we're just going to do the same thing for the other side, and again, make sure you have your pole jack to support your transfer case. Now we can lower our pole jack and insert our spacers. So now we can transfer over this cup to our new hardware with a longer shank to accommodate for our spacer. And then run that up through the transfer case mount. And on the top of that, we're gonna use the 22-millimeter or seven-eighths-inch nylock nut that comes in the kit. Our new bolt is also a 22 just like factory, so we're gonna tighten that down. And we're gonna do the same thing for the other side.All that's left to do for our transfer case drop is to put back in place our skid plate. So we're gonna hang that on the front and then around the rear. The kit includes a little spacer for the skid plate to accommodate for that drop transfer case. So, we're gonna put that in place and then run through the new hardware that comes in the kit. And for this new rear hardware, we're gonna tighten that with a 13-millimeter socket. And then we're gonna do the same thing for the other side and then use the two factory bolts for the front and those are a 12-millimeter. So, we have our differential all good to go on the truck, now we can move back to our front strut assembly. Installing the front spacer is going to be as simple as putting this on over the studs and securing it with that original 14-millimeter hardware. So now we're just gonna grab the other side and do the same thing. So the lift on the front is all set. All that's left to do is grab these strut assemblies, take them back to our Tacoma and get them installed.So now we're just gonna shimmy this in. We're gonna get that bottom out behind our sway bar and then get the spacer into the bucket up on our sway bar a little bit, control arm down. So, one thing I really do like about this kit is the studs on top of the spacer aren't pressed in. As you'll see in a second, we're gonna drop them through the top of that bucket to secure the top of the strut assembly to the bucket. That makes it a lot easier. You get a lot more clearance when you're putting the strut assembly back in like this. With the assembly seated, all we're gonna do is run through those bolts on top. Supreme does give you new ones, 16-millimeter. They also include some flat washers and lock washers in the kit. And a ratcheting wrench will help tremendously for this step. Again, 16-millimeters.So, now we're gonna move on to the bottom bolt. And there is a bit of a trick to this because it doesn't quite line up as it sits right now. So, what I'm gonna do is basically push down on the brake rotor with my elbow, push in on the strut assembly, and that should be more than enough to easily get that bolt through. So then we're gonna use that factory nut and washer, 19-millimeter wrench and socket to tighten that back down. While everything is still loose, we're just gonna pop over to the other side and get our other strut assembly seated. Now we're gonna get that new supreme suspension hardware seated on the top. Again, those are 16-millimeter bolts. You might have to shimmy your strut assembly around a little bit to get those threads started.So, we're gonna work on the upper ball joint on the upper control arm now. And what we did was we lowered the truck and then floor-jacked up the lower control arm, that way we could kinda use the weight of the vehicle against itself. That'll give us as much play and upward mobility on this knuckle. I'm gonna use a pry bar to pry down on the upper control arm so we can get the ball joint seated in the knuckle and then I can get the original castle nut started. And then once you have that seated, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket to tighten that down. Now we're gonna run through that original cotter pin. So, that is the hard part for the driver's side done. We're pretty much over the hill here. All that's left to do is tighten down our original suspension components. Sway bar is gonna be that 17-millimeter nut. Tie rod is gonna be a 19-millimeter nut and a cotter pin, and then brake line brackets, which are 10s and 12s.So, that's this side completely wrapped up. Now we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. So, for the first step on the rear, we're gonna start by using a 12-millimeter socket to remove this emergency brake line bracket. Next, we're going to unbolt the bottom of our shock, that's a 17-millimeter bolt and nut. We're not even gonna touch the top, that can stay in place for this. So, now we have a pole jack supporting our rear axle tube. We're going to be undoing the U-bolts. Those nuts on there are 19-millimeters. We're gonna get those out of the way, drop our pole jack down, insert our spacer block, and then replace it with a new Supreme Suspensions U-bolts. Then we can drop away that plate underneath our U-bolts and pull it out our U-bolts.So now we're gonna take some pressure off of our pole jack, just enough to separate the axle tube the leaf spring. We're gonna slide this lip lock in there and make sure this alignment down lines up. Now, one thing to note as you do this, you wanna keep an eye on these brake lines here. If those start to get tight, you might wanna loosen up that bracket. So far so good. Now we're gonna bring the jack back up and give our leaf spring a bit of a push to seat that down as well. So, with everything lined up, you can now drop your U-bolts in place then slide that bottom plate on and secure it with the nuts and flat washers included in the kit.So, as you guys can see, these studs are pretty long. Actually, my 22-millimeter socket is gonna bottom out on there. So we took a quick measurement. We're gonna chop these down to 9 inches in total length. That should bring us to about there. That'll give me enough room to get that nut on and get this socket around it and get it all the way snug. Now, these are still pretty warm so I can put a pair of gloves on. All we're gonna do is, again, seat them over our leaf spring and mounting perch and then tighten them down with that 22-millimeter nut. Then again, we're gonna use a 22-millimeter socket to snug those up. And when you do this, you wanna make sure you go in a crisscross X pattern.So now we're gonna crank our pole jack back up a little bit and get our shock seated at the bottom again. That's a 17-millimeter on both ends. Now we're gonna do the same thing for the other side. And lastly, we're just gonna reattach our E brake cable on both sides. All that's left to do for our Tacoma is take it for a good alignment.And that is going to do it for my review and install of the Supreme Suspensions 3-inch front, 1-inch rear Pro Billet lift kit fitting all '05 and newer four-wheel drive Tacomas. Thanks for watching. I'm Joe, and for all things Tacoma, keep it right here to

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation


      • Suspension Lift & Leveling Kit
      • Lifts the Front by 3 Inches, the Rear by 1 Inch
      • Increases Ground Clearance, and Corrects Rake
      • CNC-Machined Billet Aluminum Front and Rear Spacers
      • CNC-Machined Billet Aluminum Differential Drop & Skid Plate Spacers
      • Bolt-On, No-Mod Installation
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits All 2005 to 2022 Toyota Tacoma 4WD 6-Lug Models


      Optimize Your Off-Road Capabilities. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit is the lift & leveling kit that offers improves ground clearance, while maintaining OEM ride quality and comfort. This is achieved by providing 3 inches and 1-inch front and rear lift respectively, without drastically changing your Tacoma’s suspension and drivetrain configuration. This lift-leveling kit not only corrects factory rake, it also allows the use of larger tires giving your Toyota Tacoma a tougher overall look.

      Precision-Crafted Spacers & Blocks. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit provides its lift via spacers CNC-machined from solid billets of 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum. This construction method produces lift spacers and blocks that are extremely strong, lightweight, and free of any welded seams that may potentially become failure points in the future. Additionally, the front lift spacers and rear lift blocks are then hard anodized in black, for a finish that’s way tougher than powder coating.

      Includes Differential Drop & Skid Plate Spacers. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit also includes differential drop, and skid plate spacers. Just like the lift spacers, the 2 types of spacers are CNC-machined from 6061-T6 billet aircraft aluminum for extreme strength minus the weight. The differential spacers work to lower your Tacoma’s front differential, helping prevent undue wear on the CV joint. The skid plate spacers, on the other hand, prevent the modified suspension components from rubbing against the skid plate.

      Straightforward Bolt-On, Installation Without Modifications. The different components of the Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit bolt-on directly to existing locations on your Tacoma. No modifications are necessary, and all mounting hardware is included for convenience. Please note that a wheel alignment is recommended after installation.

      Covered by a Limited Lifetime Warranty. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit is covered by a limited lifetime warranty against material and workmanship defects. Please visit the manufacturer’s website for more details.

      Application. The Supreme Suspensions 3-Inch Front & 1-Inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit fits all 2005 to 2022 Toyota Tacoma 4WD 6-Lug models.



      Supreme Suspensions TYTA05FK3010A

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Lift Spacers
      • (2) Differential Drop Spacers
      • (2) Rear Lift Blocks
      • (2) Bolts
      • (2) Nuts
      • (4) U-Bolts
      • (9) Studs
      • (14) Washers

      Customer Reviews (90)

        Questions & Answers

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        Will It Fit My Tacoma

        • 2.7L I4 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22
        • 3.5L V6 - 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22
        • 4.0L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15