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Supreme Suspensions 2.50-Inch Front / 2-Inch Rear Pro Billet Suspension Lift Kit (05-23 4WD Tacoma)

Item TT2121
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$209.95 (kit)

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      Video Review & Installation

      Hey, guys. Today, we're checking out the Supreme Suspensions 2.5-inch Front, 2-inch Rear Pro Billet Lift Kit, fitting all 2005 and Newer 4-Wheel-Drive Toyota Tacomas. So, if you're looking to add some height to your truck, whether that's for ground clearance off-road or you're looking to fit a more aggressive wheel and tire, a lift kit is always a great place to start and this option by Supreme Suspensions is going to be one to take a look into. When it comes to what size tire you can fit with this lift kit, I would recommend a 31-inch tire, either the stock one or a more aggressive 31 inches. You won't need to do any modifications to fit a more aggressive 31-inch tire, and will have plenty of clearance. Now, if you wanted to run a 33-inch tire with this kit, you will need to do some modifications, otherwise, you're going to have some rubbing issues. The clearance will still be a little tight with 33 inches, so this will best be suited for on-road driving only. Now, this choice is going to add 2.5 inches to the front with two spacers for the front struts. You're going to have a 2-inch block for the rear leaf springs, and you're also going to have a differential drop spacer to accommodate for the added height and reduce any excessive wear on the differential components.Now, overall, this is going to be a very good kit for a number of different reasons and a number of different benefits. Now, this is going to, of course, improve ground clearance. So, if you are taking your truck off-road and you're looking for some added height to get over some obstacles, this is going to be a great choice. Now, this is also, like I said before, going to open up a lot of room in the wheel well area for a more aggressive wheel and tire. And this is also going to level out the rake in the front of the truck and create a more aggressive and defined stance for the Tacoma overall. Now, I would like to call out the fact that the spacer itself for the front two struts is going to measure out to 1 and 1/3 of an inch. Now, with that, there are a couple of different factors that create that 2.5 inches of lift in the front, like suspension geometry and the spring compression. So, once it's installed, the end result in the front will be 2.5 inches of lift. So, I would just keep that in mind, when you take a look at the actual spacer itself. Now, with that being said, this kit is going to be very durable. All of the spacers are made of a billet aluminum material. So, they will hold up for a very long time when this is installed on your Tacoma. And they're going to have a nice black anodized finish on top to protect that aluminum underneath from any corrosion. It's going to be the best for no rubbing and really, overall, the best fitment if you're looking for movement inside that wheel well.Now, as far as the pricing is concerned this is going to come in at roughly $250. And in my personal opinion, I think that that's well worth the price. This kit is going to be very inclusive. However, it is also very straightforward at the same time. So, this is going to be pretty basic in the fact that this is only going to include spacers, but I do like the fact that this also includes some accommodation for the differential with those spacers for the diff. Now, that is going to reduce any excessive wear on those components. And it's going to be a little bit more inclusive than some other budget-friendly kits that will only come with either the spacers for the front and the back or just the front spacers. Now, on the flip side to that, some other more expensive choices are just going to come with some extra bells and whistles. They may be a little bit taller in lift height. So, instead of a 2.5-inch lift in the front, they may be a 3 inches or a 3.5 inches, and they may come with some more accommodating components like a sway bar drop kit or they may come with a control arm instead of using the factory control arm. So, it kind of comes down to your personal preference and what you're looking to do. If you're looking for a kit that's very straightforward, pretty easy to install, and is going to be budget-friendly in comparison to some other choices, then this is going to be a great option.Now, as far as the install is concerned, I'm going to give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It's nothing you can't get done in your driveway in about four hours with some pretty basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for this install were a can of PB B'laster, a pair of needlenose pliers, a pair of vise grips, pneumatic impact wrenches, a tape measure, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a flat-head screwdriver, a breaker bar, a couple of pry bars, a ball-peen hammer, a dead blow, a punch, a trim removal tool, a 7/8-inch wrench, 19-millimeter, 17-millimeter, and 14-millimeter wrench, 19-millimeter swivel socket, a socket set ranging from 22 millimeters down to 10 millimeters, a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a marker, a pick, a 3-inch extension, an angle grinder, a pair of safety glasses, painter's tape, a cutoff wheel, and an electric impact wrench. So, the first step of our install is to get the truck up in the air and supported. Now, I have it on a lift here, but if you are at home, you can use a jack and jack stands for this install. And then our next step is to take off our front tire. Now, I'm going to be using a 19-millimeter socket and my spline key. However, the tool that you use may depend on what lug nut size that you have.So, after the tire is off, what we're gonna do at this point is address our brake lines. There's going to be a brake line bracket on the spindle, one on the frame, and then we're going to have one on the upper control arm. For this step, you're going to need a 12-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter socket. So, I'm going to remove the bracket on the spindle first using a 12-millimeter socket. Now, I'm also using a 3-inch extension to give myself a little bit of room next to the brake caliper here. Once that's removed, you're gonna take out the little hook that's in the spindle, and we're gonna just push it back. This is going to allow us to remove our spindle from this upper control arm and not have our brake lines affected, stressed out, or taut in the meantime. We want to keep those protected just because we don't want to break them. We would have to replace them if so. Next, we're gonna remove the brake line bracket on the frame. I'm also going to use that 12-millimeter socket and the 3-inch extension. So, what we're gonna do now is remove the brake line from our upper control arm. Now, what I'm going to do is remove the bracket as a whole, but you can bend back these tabs and remove the line from there. I just find it easier to just remove the whole bracket. So, I'm using a 10-millimeter socket. I'm just going to take out that bolt.So, what we're gonna do at this point is remove the cotter pin in the outer tie rod. We do need to disconnect this from the knuckle or the spindle here in order to get our strut out. So, I'm going to take a pair of needlenose pliers. I also sprayed this with PB B'laster just to loosen that up, but I'm going to take that pair of needlenose pliers, and I'm going to go ahead and remove that cotter pin. What we're gonna do at this point is remove the castle nut up top. I'm going to be using a 19-millimeter socket to remove that nut there. So, the outer tie rod might not drop out right away. What we're gonna do at this point is take the castle nut and thread that on a couple of threads. And then we're gonna take a hammer and just hit the side of the knuckle or the side of the spindle here and it should release that ball joint. You may need to give it some downward pressure. You can just take a pry bar. So, now that the ball joint, released from the knuckle here, what we're gonna do is just remove it completely. Thread that back on because we'll be reattaching that a little bit later, and then we're gonna disconnect our sway bar. What we're gonna do next is remove the sway bar end link from our spindle. I'm going to be using a 17-millimeter socket, and we're gonna remove this nut. Now, if the ball joint decides it wants to spin, what we can do is just take that pry bar that we used before and just give it some outward pressure, and it should stop it from spinning.So, if you are unable to get the hardware for the sway bar end link off with a 17-millimeter socket and that impact wrench, what you can do is remove it with a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a ratchet, and a 17-millimeter wrench. This is just going to allow you to keep the ball joint still while you are removing that hardware. If you do use an impact wrench, sometimes that can move. And even if you put pressure on it, sometimes it just keeps spinning. So, this is an alternative method that works pretty well. It just takes a little bit longer. So, I'm gonna use that 17-millimeter wrench, I'm gonna put that on the nut side, and same with the 6-millimeter Allen socket. Once that's removed, we'll be able to remove our sway bar from our spindle. So, the sway bar end link wanted to stay in the spindle, in order to get it out, what I'm going to do is just take a punch and we're gonna put that where we put the 6-millimeter Allen socket. I'm also going to take a dead blow and we're gonna just tap that out. So, now what we're gonna do is remove the upper control arm ball joint from our spindle here. Now, we need to remove this cotter pin. I'm going to use the same pair of needlenose pliers that I used before. After the cotter pin is removed, we're gonna remove the castle nut. I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter swivel socket.So, what I'm going to do is take that completely off. Then I'm going to thread it back on just a couple of threads. Again, we have to tap the ball joint out of the spindle because the ball joint is tapered. So, it usually just sticks there like it did with the other two. So, again, we're going to have to take a ball-peen hammer and tap that out of the spindle. Now, the nut there is gonna catch it. That's why we threaded it on a little bit. There we go. Once that pops out of place, what we're gonna do is continue to remove that 19-millimeter nut. And now when we do this, the spindle is going to fall. Just make sure that you have a hand on the spindle. We're going to carefully lay it to the side because we will need to remove our strut assembly in just a couple of minutes, but we don't want to stress out any of the joints, any of the brake lines. We want to make sure that those are protected. So make sure you keep a handle on this. As you can see, that is disconnected. Now, what we have to do is repeat that process on the other side because we will need to move our sway bar out of the way in order to remove our strut assembly. So, after you've taken apart the other side, what we're gonna do is start to work on our strut assembly. We're going to have three studs at the top. I'm going to take a 14-millimeter socket, and I'm going to remove that hardware up there.So, after the hardware is taken out of the top of the strut, what we're gonna do is take out this lower strut bolt. Now, for this, I have a 19-millimeter wrench and a 19-millimeter deep socket. And I would also recommend that you support the lower control arm when doing this. Now, to remove this bolt, you might have to play with the height of the control arm itself. So, it looks like we'll need to raise it just a hair. So, what I just did was lowered this down a little bit. Like I said, you will have to kind of play with the height of the lower control arm in order to get this bolt loosened up so that you can just push it right through. So, what I'm going to do is just push that bolt through and remove it. So, what you can also do, just like we did with the sway bar, is just take a punch. This makes it a little bit easier if it doesn't want to come out fully by hand. And you can just tap it through. Now, again, we're going to have to kind of mess with the height here. You may have to move the spindle around in order to do this. So, in order to make room to remove the strut assembly, what I did was pull the sway bar all the way down. The sway bar end link does have to pass that axle. So, once it's pulled all the way down, the tie rod is pulled most of the way out. What we're gonna do is just push the strut towards our brake rotor here or towards the spindle, and we should be able to just pop that out of the way.So, once the strut assembly is out on this side, what we're gonna do is repeat that process on the other side, and then we can install our spacers. So, now that we have the struts out of the car, what we're gonna do is add our spacer. There's going to be three cutouts on the spacer for our factory studs. We're gonna pop this right on top after we line it up and then we're gonna secure it down with the factory hardware. Now, I would like to mention that the top of the spacer is going to sit flush with the top of the spring perch or the strut perch. So, if your studs exceed the top surface, you will have to grind them down. I've already done so, so they are a little bit lower than the top of the surface here. So, what we're gonna do is add our factory hardware, screw them down on both the struts, and then we're gonna put them back to the truck. So, I'm just gonna use a 14-millimeter socket to thread these on by hand, and then we're gonna tighten them up with either a ratchet or I'm going to use my impact wrench. Once that's on there, we're gonna repeat for the other strut. So, making sure that the two mounting locations on the front of the spacer align with the top of our strut perch and that the bottom is aligned with the lower strut mount, what we're gonna do is install our strut.What we're gonna do now is take our factory lower strut bolt, and we can pop that through. You might have to tinker with the height of the lower control arm. You can use a pole jack or a jack stand or a floor jack to do so. What I'm gonna do is just pop that bolt through. If you need to, you can use the punch and the dead blow that we used before just to pop that through the other side. And we can secure that down with the factory washer and bolt. Now, we're not going to tighten this up just yet. Next, we're gonna tighten up this lower bolt here. I'm going to use a 19-millimeter deep socket. Now, you may need a 19-millimeter wrench as well if the bolthead spins. Sometimes it does, sometimes it does not. Next, we're gonna move up top. Next, we're gonna secure down the top of our strut using the provided hardware, which is the bolt, lock washer, and flat washer. We're gonna put that through the strut perch and thread that into the top of the spacer. You may have to move the strut around a little bit just to line that up. What we're gonna do at this point is take a 16-millimeter socket and tighten those up. Now, the strut might pull forward a little bit. You can just reposition it back in that mount and adjust the height of that lower control arm if need be. After the top is secure, we're gonna move to the bottom of the strut.So, after you've installed the strut on the other side, we'll be able to move the sway bar freely so we can get it back into its place. But first, we're going to attach our spindle here. So, we're just going to pop the spindle back up into place so we can attach it to the upper control arm. So, once you have the spindle lined up with the upper control arm, you may have to loosen the upper control arm in order to get this to fit or just drop down far enough in order for you to get a couple of threads. You can raise up on the lower control arm, just be mindful of your lift points when you're doing this. So, I'm just using a small pry bar just to pry down on the upper control arm just so we can get a couple of threads on. Now, it might be helpful to loosen the upper control arm in order to get it to drop down far enough or you could use a small pry bar like I just did. And then what we're gonna do at this point is tighten down this nut here and reattach our cotter pin so it's set at the correct angle, and then we're gonna button up our sway bar end link as well as our outer tie rod. I'm going to use that 19-millimeter swivel socket that we originally used to remove this. Then we're gonna take a cotter pin, put that through, make sure that hooks on part of that castle nut.All right. Now, we can install our sway bar end link and our outer tie rod. Then making sure that the sway bar end link is at the correct height, which it should be if the other side is attached, we can put that through our spindle, take our factory nut, thread that on, then we're gonna tighten that up with a 17-millimeter socket. Next, we're gonna take our outer tie rod. We're gonna line that up with our knuckle here. So, now we can align our outer rod. You may have to move the knuckle itself back and forth in order to get this lined up. And then we're gonna take our factory castle nut, thread that on. We're gonna take a 19-millimeter socket and tighten that up. And once that's tightened up, you want to make sure that the castle nut aligns with the hole on the stud there on the ball joint because we have to put in a new cotter pin. And I recommend to put in a new cotter pin because the old ones do get pretty rusty and they wear out. I'm just using a pair of needlenose pliers. When the cotter pin's through, you just want to make sure that you bend back the longer part just to make sure that it stays in place. All right. Once that's in place, what we're gonna do is reattach our brake lines. Thread that factory bolt in by hand, tighten that up with a 12-millimeter socket.Next, we're going to attach our upper control arm brake line bracket and the one that's on the frame. I'm going to do the control arm bracket first using that 10-millimeter bolt that we originally used. And I'm also going to use a 10-millimeter socket to tighten that up. Next, we're gonna attach the brake line bracket that's on the frame here. I'm going to be using that 12-millimeter factory bolt and 12-millimeter socket. So, once you've finished up on this side, you would repeat the same process on the other side and then we're gonna throw our tires back on and then head to the rear. So, now that we're in the rear, the first two things that you want to do is take off the rear tires and you also want to support the rear axle. Now, we will be dropping it down. So, if you are at home on a jack and jack stands, I would recommend using a floor jack as well as jack stands to support that rear axle. Because I'm using a lift, I'll be using the pole jacks here, but our first step after those are taken care of is to disconnect our emergency brake line. So, over on this side, we are going to have a bracket that's connected to our leaf spring that's holding our e-brake line. I'm going to use a 12-millimeter socket to remove the bolt that's holding that bracket on. That'll give us a little bit of room to work with when it comes to lowering our axle.So, next, we're gonna remove the lower shock bolt. Now, we don't need to remove the shock, we just need to disconnect it from the axle to drop our axle or allow the axle to drop. So, I'm going to use a 17-millimeter wrench and a 17-millimeter socket to remove that bolt. So, you might have to kind of play with the axle height in order to loosen that up or get it to wiggle out. Put a little pressure on it. Then you can pull it out of the mount itself. Now that our shock is disconnected, what we're gonna do is disconnect the U-bolts that are holding on our leaf spring. Now, this is where we are going to insert our block, so we want to remove the U-bolts completely. I'm going to use a 19-millimeter socket and my impact wrench to remove the hardware that's holding on our U-bolts.I also recommend to hit it with a little bit of PB B'laster, just because this can get pretty rusty. So, once the hardware and the bottom plate is removed, what we're gonna do is just remove our U-bolts. What we're gonna do at this point is carefully lower down our axle so we can fit in our lock here. So, the alignment dial is going to sit in the mount on the axle and then there's going to be a hole up at the top for the factory one. Now, in order to get that aligned, you may have to kind of shift the axle or you could also move the leaf spring. I find it a little bit easier to move the axle.What we're gonna do at this point is take our provided U-bolts. These are going to be longer to accommodate for that 2-inch block. We're going to put that over the bracket up on top of our leaf spring that holds them in place. Now, once those are there, we're gonna take our factory mount or our factory bracket, and we're gonna align this with our U-bolts. You may, because the U-bolts are new, you may have to actually pinch the U-bolts in order to get them to slide through the bracket. You also want to make sure that this curve is sitting right on the curve of the axle here. You may push the rear one out of place, that's fine. We're gonna just move it back and do the same thing. Just kind of pinch it to get it through. We wanna make sure that it's sitting flush with the axle, and then it's also sitting...that the U-bolt at the top is sitting inside the hooks on that upper bracket. So, it should stay in place for the time being because the U-bolts are pushing outward. So, then we're gonna grab our provided hardware, which is going to be the four flat washers and four nuts and we're gonna thread those onto the bottom of the U-bolt. What we're gonna do at this point is take a 22-millimeter socket, and we're going to tighten up these bolts in a star pattern or a criss-cross pattern.So, what we're gonna do now is attach the bottom part of our shock with the factory hardware. Now, we will have to manipulate the height of the axle. You're going to have to raise it up. And when you're doing this, I would just keep an eye on your lift points on the truck. You don't want to push the truck off of those points. So, since the U-bolts are a little bit longer, what I'm going to do is use that 17-millimeter socket with my breaker bar on the bolthead side and my 17-millimeter wrench on the nut side. So, now that our shock is reconnected, our next step would be to reconnect our emergency brake line bracket. Now, because we added 2 inches of lift, this dropped the axle and the bracket is not lining up properly to the leaf spring. Now, with this, you don't necessarily have to reconnect this bracket because there's less slack now that the axle is dropped. There's also a secondary bracket that's up on the frame. So, if you'd like to cut this off, you can definitely do so with a cutoff wheel. I am not going to cut our bracket, but you can take a cutoff wheel and get this bracket off of there. Now, at this point, what we're gonna do is put on our tires when we're all wrapped up with the lift kit. So, what I would recommend is to torque everything down to spec and to take your truck for an alignment, and then you'll be all set to go.So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe for more videos and products just like this. And always keep it right here at

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Pro Billet Lift Kit
      • Provides 2.50 Inches (Front) and 2.0 Inches (Rear) of Lift
      • Gives a Sleek and Aggressive Stance
      • More Front and Rear-End Clearance for Larger Tires
      • Better Handling and Corner-Holding
      • Built with T6 Billet Aluminum
      • Anti-Rust Hard Anodized Coating
      • Straightforward Installation
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits 2005-2023 4WD 6-Lug Tacoma Models


      Provides the Right Lift. The Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit was designed to give your Toyota Tacoma the right boost, literally and figuratively. Enjoy a smooth ride in a sleek, aggressive-looking truck with 2.50 inches of front-end lift and 2 inches of rear-end lift. Not only will your Tacoma be able to accommodate larger tires, but it will also be able to bear the strain of heavy loads without much trouble.

      Solid Construction. All Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet lift kits are made to provide your truck with a consistent and adequate lift. To achieve this, Supreme Suspensions guarantees that all the components of each kit are made from high-quality material. Thus, each front and rear lift component is CNC-machined out of solid billet aluminum blocks, while each spacer receives a protective anti-rust and anti-corrosion anodized coating.

      Straightforward Installation. Installation of the Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit takes about 4 hours, on average. This kit does not require any special tools, and you can reuse your factory shocks. However, it is highly advised that you have your truck undergo a post-procedure alignment.

      Limited Lifetime Warranty Included.This Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit comes with a warranty that covers manufacturing and material defects. The lifetime warranty only applies to the original owner. The proof of purchase may be required upon claiming the warranty. You may get more details from the manufacturer.

      Application. The Supreme Suspensions Pro Billet Lift Kit fits 2005-2023 4WD 6-Lug Tacoma models.



      Supreme Suspensions TYTA05FK2520A

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm -

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Strut Spacers
      • (2) Rear Lift Blocks
      • (4) Extended Zinc-Plated U-Bolts
      • (1) Differential Drop Kit
      • (1) Supreme Pro Signature Decals Set
      • (1) Bottle Opener Keychain
      • Installation Instructions

      Customer Reviews (106)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Tacoma

        • 2.7L I4 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18
        • 3.5L V6 - 16, 17, 18
        • 4.0L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15