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Rubicon Express 1.50 to 2.50-Inch Standard Coil Suspension Lift Kit (18-20 Jeep Wrangler JL 4 Door)

Item J125932-JL
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$349.99 (kit)

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      Review & Installation Video

      Hey, guys. So today I'm here with the Rubicon Express two and a half inch super ride lift kit fitting all 2018 and up JL Wranglers. So lifting your Wrangler can offer you a number of different benefits, first off, performance and then you always have aesthetics. This option by Rubicon Express is gonna do just that by helping you conquer those trails and also turning some heads with a badass and aggressive stance out of your JL.So what I do really like about this kit is that it is a pretty bare-bones lift kit. This is gonna come with coils, sway bar end links, and bump stop extensions instead of a lot of other components that you would see in other standard lift kits. I do really like that because it is perfect for the beginner. It's perfect for somebody who's looking to build off of this lift kit and add some different suspension components that they would prefer over getting a lift kit that all comes together.So what I would recommend out of this lift kit is a set of shock extensions. Now, you can see that we have some bolted up behind us. This is an option by Pro Comp that we do offer on our site. And I would highly recommend if you are using your factory shocks to bolt up a set of shock extensions just to accommodate for that extra two and a half inches of lift. And I would have liked to have seen that out of this kit, but like I said, it's a bare-bones lift kit and it's gonna get you started and it's gonna get the height on your Wrangler that you may be looking for.So as far as lift height goes as well as tire size, this kit is rated to fit comfortably a 35-inch tire for the Sahara as well as the sport model and for the Rubicon model, comfortably 837-inch tire, and that's because of that raised fender flare. So 33-inch tires are gonna look a little bit small on this. However, you are gonna get a lot more room for up travel in your wheel well and 37s on the Sahara as well as the sport models are gonna be a little bit tight. You may get some rubbing from wheel lock to wheel lock. However, you still will be able to fit them.So this is gonna be a very affordable lift kit at roughly $350. And like I said before, that's just because it's gonna be a pretty bare-bones kit. Now, it still is Rubicon Express. You are getting quality parts. And I definitely do think that you are getting what you pay for out of this kit. Now, more expensive options are obviously just gonna come with more components.They may come with track bar relocation bracket, shocks as well as track bars. They may come with different control arms as well as just different components that are gonna jack that price up. Now, like I said, I think this is perfect for the beginner. I think it's perfect to build off of, which means it's perfect for the price.So install is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. You're gonna need a number of different hand tools as well as six hours' worth of your time if you're looking to do it in your driveway. So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now. The tools that I used for my install were a die grinder, a dead blow, pair of vice grips, a pry bar, a half inch drill bit, an assortment of wrenches and ratchets, an assortment of sockets, a six millimeter and eight millimeter Allen key, an extension, safety glasses, a control arm knockout tool, and an assortment of impacts and a drill.So the first step to our install is just to get our Jeep up in the air. Now, if you have a lift like we do, we're gonna throw it up on our lift. However, if you're doing this on the ground with a jack and jack stands, we are gonna start in the front. So choke your rear wheels and jack up the front. Now we can go ahead and remove our wheels. I'm using a 22-millimeter deep socket and my air impact wrench. So first things first, we do have to support our front axle. So I'm gonna grab some pole jacks and just go ahead and do that. So now we can start by removing our sway bar links. So, I am going to use an 18-millimeter wrench and an 18-millimeter socket to remove that bottom bolt. Now we have to do the other bolt to swing this up and out of the way so we can remove that top notch.So now we can remove our other bottom bolt for our sway bar link. Now, there will be a flag nut on the other side. So you'll just need an 18-millimeter socket. I'm also using a breaker bar because I can't get my impact wrench in here. So I'm just going to break that loose both quick and then we can go ahead and take our hand ratchet to it.Now you can get these out of the way and bring our sway bar down just a hair so we can go ahead and access our top stud. So what we need to do at this point is take our 18-millimeter wrench as well as a 6-millimeter Allen key, and then we can go ahead and remove that top stud. After our one sway bar is removed, we can move to the other side. So next we can remove our lower shock bolt. This is going to allow our axle to sag. We're not actually replacing our shocks in this kit, but we do need to get our axle low enough to take out our springs. So I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench to do that.So before we drop our axle down and while we're already on this side, what I wanna do is just disconnect this one bracket that's holding our brake line. This is just gonna allow it a little bit more slack. And then if we do see that this is getting maxed out, we can come back and disconnect any other brackets that may be keeping that tension.So I'm using a 15-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna go ahead and remove this bolt. Slide this bracket off. That's just gonna give us enough slack. We will remove this bracket if need be. You may have to put a little bit of pressure on your axle. Make sure you watch your lift points when you do this. However, this is basically just maxed out, but it is pulling upward. So it is putting pressure on this bolt.So what we're gonna do next is remove our track bar bolt. You're gonna be using a 21-millimeter socket. I'm also gonna use an extension to clear our drag length here. This is just gonna allow our axle to drop a little bit farther. What we're gonna do now is just start to lower our axle. Make sure that you keep an eye on your brake lines. I didn't wanna disconnect all of the brackets at first. I wanted to see what is gonna hold us up in order to drop our axle. So, just make sure you are watching those.So now that we have our axle lowered enough, what we're gonna do now is just remove our spring. Do the same thing on the other side. So what we're gonna do next is install our spring as well as our bump stop spacer. So what we're gonna do is put the spacer inside of our spring and then put it around and set it into place. So I'm gonna put the spacer inside because we will have to secure that down in just a second. But then we're just going to put the spring into place. So now we're going to shift the spring into position.So after your spring is aligned with your factory retainer, we're going to secure down our bump stop extension with our provided hardware. Now, this is gonna be two flat washers, a bolt, as well as a nylon lock nut. So I'm going to tighten this down with a 9/16 inch socket and 9/16 inch open-ended wrench.So before I go ahead and install this second spring, I did wanna show you guys a side-by-side comparison in height in comparison to your factory spring. Now, this is what's gonna give you all of the height out of this kit. You are getting two and a half inches of lift for your JL.Now, these are also gonna carry over the comfortability aspect because they are a quality spring. These are tuned for bump compliance as well as load handling. So these are still gonna be very comfortable, and that's expected from Rubicon Express because they are a quality brand. Now, there's not really much to talk about here. So let's go ahead and install this new spring.So in order to secure our bump stop spacer down, we need to remove our brake line bracket on the back of our spring perch. We do have the track bar bracket in the front so it's not gonna be very easily accessible from the front. However, if we just remove this, we will be able to access that a lot easier. So I'm just gonna take a 10-millimeter socket, remove this bolt that's holding on this bracket. So once that bolt is removed, we'll be able to wedge this out, and we can just place that there, so we'll be able to access from the rear. So what we're gonna do next is secure down our bump stop spacer. So now that we're finished attaching our bump stop spacer, we can just reattach our brake line bracket. So all you have to do is just slide that pin back in, and then return, reaching out through our bolt.So what we're gonna do next is punch out the tubs for our control arms so we can adjust our caster in the future. Now, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket to remove the bolt on the bolt head side and then a 24-millimeter or 15/16 inch wrench on the nut side. You also wanna make sure that you do this one control arm at a time. Whenever you're replacing control arm, you always wanna make sure that all the links are connected besides the one that you're working on.So now that we have our control arm out of the way, what we need to do is punch out these tubs so we can insert a cam bolt and then adjust our caster. The caster is basically how your axle rolls. So we are just going to put our tool in there so we can punch all these tubs. Now we can take a 21-millimeter socket. It may differ depending on your tool. So we're gonna go ahead and impact that so we can pull our tool through to punch these tubs out. So we're just gonna continue that process right down the line.So now we can reinstall our control arm with our cam washers. Now, we are using the factory control arm so it needs to be 1.5 positive or more positive caster than our factory spec. So if we position our washer with the skinniest part facing the rear, basically the hole facing the rear, then we'll go back to a factory spec with stock control arms. So we're gonna take our new cam bolts, our flat washers, as well as our cam washers. Push that through making sure that our washer is at least flush. When the axle's down on its own weight, it'll actually roll to where it's supposed to be. Then we're gonna take our other cam washers. You have two cam washers per bolt with per control arm or a flat washer and our nut. So I'm gonna go ahead and snug that up. We're not gonna tighten it down just yet because we wanna do that while the Jeep is on its own weight. I'm going to use a 24-millimeter socket and a 5/16 inch wrench, and we're gonna do that. Again, we just wanna make sure that it's on there and connected. And then we can do the same thing on the other side.So to actually get this out of the way, I just loosen up the top bolt just a hair so we can slide this down. So we need to punch out these tubs here. We're gonna stick our tub punch-out tool in our control arm mount and make sure that everything is lined up evenly. You can rent these at a local auto parts store. I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket and tighten that until it goes through.So after we punch out our tubs, we're just going to make this surface flush so we can put our cam washer on and it sits between our two tubs here. Now, we do need to also make sure that the bolt is able to move back and forth. So I'm just gonna take a die grinder and grind this all flat as well as make sure that the bolt will fit.So, for our passenger side control arm mount, the inside hole will be blocked by our center here mounted up to our axles. So we're gonna flip our tool around and we are just going to use a 22-millimeter wrench. You're gonna need some leverage and we'll be able to punch that out by hand.Now that we've cleaned up our tubs, we can go ahead and insert our cam bolt. You wanna make sure that your cam washer is facing 1.5 degree more positive. So when you bolt your shocks in, what's gonna happen if you don't have extensions or if you don't have new shocks, your stock shocks will be maxed out because they are not accommodated to that height. They're not made for that two and a half inches of the extra lift, so the valving will be maxed out. So what we're gonna do is go ahead and install these shock extensions to make sure that we are accommodating for that extra lift height.Now I would really like to see this out of this lift kit. However, they are not 100% needed. You still can bolt them up. However, I highly recommend that you do not. It's gonna be a lot more comfortable if you have that accommodation there and you definitely don't want to blow out a shock.What we can do next is bolt up our sway bar end links. These are gonna be new. These are gonna be able to accommodate for that extra height. Now, you are gonna have two different types of sway bar links. These straight ones are going to be in the front and the ones with a slight bend in them are gonna be for the rear. So we are gonna have new sway bar end link top hardware. And then we're gonna go ahead and reuse the lower hardware from the factory.Now, before we go ahead and tighten these down, I do wanna connect both sides to make sure everything is lining up properly. So for our bottom hardware, we are gonna be tightening that up with an 18-millimeter socket. Now, for the top, I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket and 19-millimeter wrench. Now I can do the same thing on the other side. Now our last step before moving to the rear is just to reconnect our brake line brackets on our control arm here. We're gonna reuse our factory hardware and tighten that down with a 15-millimeter socket. Do the same thing on the other side. Now we can start disassembling the rear.So the first step to disassembling our rear is just to support our rear axle. Then we can go ahead and disconnect our sway bar links as well as our shocks. So to make it easier to access our sway bar, I'm just going to disconnect the bottom of our shock first. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench, same thing for the other side. Now I can disassemble our sway bars.I'm gonna be using the same 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench to disconnect the lower sway bar end link bolt. I'm gonna do that same thing on the other side. And then we're going to lower our sway bar so we can access our top bolt a little bit easier. Now I can pull our sway bar down being careful of our brake lines. We just wanna make it a little bit easier accessible. So now we can take off the top sway bar end link nuts. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter wrench for the nut, and then to keep the stud still, I need to use a 6-millimeter Allen key. After that nut is off, we can pop out our sway bar end link and do the same thing on the other side.After our sway bars are disconnected, we can start to lower our axle keeping an eye on all of our brake lines. Now we're just going to drop our axles keeping an eye on it, making sure that everything looks even, also keeping an eye on our brake lines as well. We do not want to stress those out. As you can tell, we already have enough space to take out our factory springs. We wanna make sure that we keep our isolators still. So after we have our axle lowered as far as possible, what we're gonna do is pop in our new springs. We do need to use that factory isolator like I mentioned before. So make sure you have that and we'll be able to pop this in over our spring perch.So since I was able to get in front of the spring over on the passenger side, it was very easy to get these actual spring in over the spring perch. Now, on this side, we do have our track bar in the way and we do kind of have a weird angle on getting that new spring in. So in order to get that in, we need to drop our axle a little bit more. So we need to relieve our track bar. So I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket and go ahead and remove this bolt so we're able to drop our axle a little bit lower. So once that's disconnected, make sure you grab that flag nut. Save that for later when we reconnect it. So now we can continue to drop our axle. Again, make sure you are watching your brake lines. We wanna make sure that those stay safe. So we are going to remove our brake line bracket just so we can get a little bit more drop. We're gonna be using a 10-millimeter socket and an impact wrench in order to take that out. I'm just gonna unhook it from our frame. That should give us a little bit of leeway when it comes to dropping our axle.So what we need to do now is put in our bump stop extension. We are going to install this with the tub facing the rear of the vehicle. So we're gonna lay that over our bump stop tub. Take our provided hardware and just drop that down. There's gonna be a hole in the front as well as the rear. So after your bump stop extensions are secure, you can move on to assembling your new shocks or your shock extensions. So before we go ahead and attach our shocks, we do need to attach our sway bar end links just to make sure that we have enough room to do so. But first, we're gonna need to drill out our sway bar. We need to drill it out to a half-inch in order for our new hardware to fit. So you need a 1/2 inch drill bit and the drill. And we can go ahead and drill it out. So what we're gonna do now is connect our sway bar end links after we've drilled out our sway bar. Now, the curve is gonna depend on what wheel you have, and how you attach it is gonna depend on the wheel that you have. So, since we are running our factory wheels on this, our factory 17-inch wheel, we are going to have that curve bent on the inside and mount this up on the inside of our sway bar.Now, if you have aftermarket wheels with 4.5 inches of backspacing or less, we're gonna bolt it up to the outside. So since we are running factory wheels, we're gonna go ahead and bolt this up here with our new hardware that we are provided. Now we can connect the bottom. So after they're both attached, we can go ahead and tighten those down using our 18-millimeter socket and wrench. So now we can tighten down the top bolt with an 8-millimeter Allen key and a 19-millimeter wrench.All right. Now we can address our shocks. So now that the shocking extensions are attached, I was trying to reconnect our shocks. However, our axle was not able to be compressed enough while it's up on the lift in order to do so. So I'm gonna have to drop it on its own weight in order to do that as well as to reconnect the front and the rear track bars. So right now, we're just gonna go ahead and reconnect our brake lines and then we can throw our tires on and do that. Then you just do the other side.So now that we have our Jeep down on our own weight, we're gonna go ahead and reconnect our shock. As you can see, it lined up a lot better than it did while it was in the air now that the axle is compressed. We're also going to tighten down our shock extensions, or if you have new shocks, you should be able to just bolt them in and tighten them down. So I did leave this loose just because we wanna make sure that everything is attached before we go ahead and tighten anything down. Now, these are actually offered on our website. These shock extensions are one of the only ones that we offer by Pro Comp. So if you are looking into getting this lift kit, this is definitely a great option. They're a lot cheaper than buying new shocks. However, this lift kit leaves it pretty open to do whatever you really want to with your shock.So while we're back here, we're gonna go ahead and line up our track bar and bolt it in. Now, ours lines up perfectly while it's sitting on its own weight. What you can also do if it's not lined up is just have someone push on the side of the Jeep and you'll be able to wiggle the back end of the Jeep to get it to line up that way. Now, with our 21-millimeter socket, we can go ahead and tighten that down.So we will have to torque everything to spec, but now we can go up to the front and attach our front track bar. So what we're gonna do now is bolt up our front track bar. Now, as you can see, it is not lining up. However, what you can do to get it to line up is have somebody sit in the driver's seat and turn the steering wheel back and forth until it does. So turning the steering wheel left and right will be able to get the axle to the position where we need it to be and we will be able to stick our bolt through, take our factory flag nut, put that on the other side.Now with the 21-millimeter socket and an extension, we can go ahead and tighten down that track bar bolt. So now I'm gonna tighten down our control arms while the Jeep's on its own weight. I'm gonna use a 15/16 wrench and 24-millimeter socket. So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like and subscribe, guys. And for more videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Specs & Installation

      Features

      • 1.5-2.5 in. Standard Coil Suspension Lift Kit
      • Comes with Extended Sway Bar End Links
      • Features Front and Rear Bump Stops
      • Smooth and Easy Installation
      • Limited Manufacturer’s Warranty Coverage
      • Shocks or Shock Adapters is Recommended for Installation
      • Fits 2018-2020 Jeep Wrangler JL 4-Door Models

      Description

      Ample Clearance for Your Jeep. Run larger tires on your Jeep without worry, whether you’re on or off the road. The Rubicon Express 1.5-2.5 in. Standard Coil Suspension Lift Kit will provide your Jeep Wrangler JL Unlimited (4 Door) with more than enough ground clearance to accommodate a larger tire size for your wheels. It also gives your Jeep a more aggressive stance and ensures a smoother ride.

      High-Quality Lift Coils. The Rubicon Express 1.5-2.5 in. Standard Coil Suspension Lift Kit comes with a set of lift coils that provide 1.50 to 2.50 inches of lift. These coils are constructed to meet the usual Rubicon Express standards of quality, with load handling and bump compliance as top priorities.

      Simplified Installation. Rubicon Express designed their 1.5-2.5 in. Standard Coil Suspension Lift Kit for a brief and hassle-free installation procedure. Having a professional install this kit, however, is your best option to ensure a smooth and problem-free fitment.

      Limited Manufacturer’s Warranty Coverage. Rubicon Express guarantees that like other products in its line, the Rubicon Express 1.5-2.5 in. Standard Coil Suspension Lift Kit is free from any defects related to workmanship and materials used. Should it be proven that your newly bought kit exhibits this type of damage, the manufacturer is willing to send a replacement or conduct repairs. You may reach out to the manufacturer for more information.

      Application. The Rubicon Express 1.5-2.5 in. Standard Coil Suspension Lift Kit was made for 2018-2020 Jeep Wrangler JL 4 Door models.

      Fitment: 2018 2019 2020 Details

      Rubicon Express JL7141

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Lift Coils
      • (2) Rear Lift Coils
      • (1) Front and Rear Bump Stop Set
      • (2) Extended Sway Bar End Links
      • Installation Hardware
      4.5

      Customer Reviews (77)

        Reviews of Rubicon Express Suspension products have an average rating of 4.5 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions

          Will It Fit My Wrangler

          • JL Rubicon 4 Door - 18, 19, 20
          • JL Wrangler 4 Door - 18, 19, 20