(approx) 5 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
FOX Performance Series 2.0 Front and Rear IFP Shocks for 1.50 to 3.50-Inch Lift (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
FOX Performance Series 2.0 Rear IFP Shock for 1.50 to 3.50-Inch Lift (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
Teraflex 9550 VSS Front and Rear Shock Absorbers for 2.50-Inch Lift (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)
Hey, guys. So, today I'm here with the Rubicon Express 2.5-inch progressive coil spring standard suspension lift kit, fitting all 2007 to 2018 four-door JK Wranglers. So, lifting your Wrangler is gonna offer you a number of different benefits when it comes to performance, some better ride quality, as well as achieving a more aggressive stance with your Wrangler.So, this option by Rubicon Express is gonna do all of that. It's gonna open up a lot of room in the wheel well for larger wheels and tires, perfect for somebody who's looking to upgrade. This is also gonna do a really good job at leveling out that rake in the hood that comes from the factory, creating that more aggressive stance. And it's also going to be perfect for somebody who's looking to do a little bit of restoration, but also wants an upgrade in performance in the meantime.So, this is going to come with everything that you need to get your Jeep up in the air and get that height on your Wrangler as far as mild height goes, considering this is a 2.5-inch lift in comparison to some other options that will be a little higher. So, this is gonna keep that mild height, keeping it on a budget, and also perfect for somebody who is not looking to get super involved in their suspension, and they're just looking to get that little bit of extra height.Now, this is going to fit up to a 35-inch tire, and that 35-inch tire is gonna fit very comfortably inside the wheel well, also giving you room for up-travel and articulation while you're out on the trail. Now, as for our 33s, those are definitely going to fit. You're gonna have a little bit more room to work with as far as a smaller diameter goes. And then jumping up to a 37-inch tire, you're not gonna have a lot of room.Now, you have to remember that this is only a 2.5-inch lift on a JK. So if you were to stuff a 37" on there, you may get some rubbing from wheel lock to wheel lock, and you're also going to have bump stops that are not going to accommodate for that extra diameter, so you will get some tire-to-fender contact.Now, as far as price goes, like I said, this is gonna be pretty affordable for a higher quality lift kit. Now, this is the option that comes with the twin-tube shocks. You are gonna get three choices with either no shocks, twin-tube shocks, or monotube shocks, so this is gonna be right in the middle at roughly $400. And I personally think that's a pretty good price point for what this is gonna come with.Now, this is going to, like I said, be the middle-of-the-road. When you take a look at lift kits that are gonna be more cost-effective, even the Rubicon Express option, they're usually not gonna include all of the components like the more cost-effective Rubicon Express like this. So, that is not going to include any shocks, and that's gonna keep the price down a little bit.Now, when you take a look at the other side, the more expensive option, or the more expensive version of this lift kit is gonna come with a monotube shock, which is going to provide a little bit more performance and some extra bells and whistles to it. So, if you are looking to invest in some more performance, then that might be a good option for you. But if you're looking to stay in the middle of the road, you're looking to keep it pretty affordable, but also have a high-quality option, this is gonna be a really good one to take a look at.So, the one thing that I do recommend with this lift kit is to purchase or outsource some brake line drop brackets for the rear because of that added height that was added to the Wrangler, and also some exhaust spacers for the Wranglers that have a 3.6 liter or newer, so 2012 to 2018. I would recommend some exhaust spacers just because the exhaust is gonna hit the driveshaft.However, all of that is very affordable. It's very cost-effective. So, adding to this, you're still at a pretty affordable price point for that high-quality suspension system. So, install is gonna be a three-out-of-three wrenches on the difficulty meter for me. You are gonna need a number of tools to get the job done. So, speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.The tools that I used for my install were impact wrenches, pneumatic and electric, a trim removal tool, a dead blow, a pair of side cutters or snips, a pair vice grips, a pair of channel locks, a set of sockets ranging from a 21-millimeter down to 10-millimeter, a set of open-ended and box wrenches, as well as ratcheting wrenches ranging from 7/8-inch down to 10-millimeter, a 15-inch extension, a 5-inch extension, a 1/4-inch drive, and a 3/8-inch drive ratchet, a cut off wheel, a bungee cord, a drill, glue lock tight, a 5/16-inch and 3/16-inch drill bit, a center punch, and a marker.So, our first step is to get our Jeep up in the air. We are on a lift, but you can also use a jack and jack stands. And then you're also gonna want to support the rear axle since we'll be starting in the rear, and then we can go ahead and take off our rear shocks.So, I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. So, we're gonna take out this lower bolt using an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. Now, we might have to tinker with the axle in order to take that bolt out, so I'm just gonna lift up our axle just a little bit, and we should be able to wiggle that bolt free. All right. Now, we can head up to the top of our shock, take out our two bolts.So, now with the 16-millimeter swivel socket, what we're gonna do is take off the two bolts that are holding in these shocks bar pin. I'm also using a 15-inch extension so we can reach up to the top. That's one. So, for the other one, make sure you have a hand on the shock because it will come out as soon as you take out that bolt.So, our next step is to remove our sway bar end link. What I'm gonna do is take out this lower bolt first using an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. So, then we can remove the top nut. What I'm gonna do is use an 18-millimeter socket to remove the nut on one side. And then to hold the studs still, I'm gonna use a 19-millimeter wrench. And then we can repeat that process on the other side.So, now we can disconnect our track bar on the axle side. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket, and this is just going to allow our axle to drop a lot further so we can fit in our larger springs. So, what we're gonna do next is disconnect our brake lines just so we have enough room to drop our axle without stressing out our brake lines. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to remove the brake line bracket bolt on the frame.So, now that our hard line and soft line are removed, we can move over to our ABS line with a trim removal tool. So, I'm just going to take a trim removal tool and pop these clips out of the frame because we don't wanna stress out the ABS line. And we can do the same thing on the other side.So, what we can do next is take off the two nuts that are holding on our e-brake brake line bracket, so I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter deep socket to remove those. All right. So, once those two are off, we can remove it by unhooking it from our parking brake. This might be a little difficult, but I'm just going to have to maneuver it around the cable, and it should pop right off.So, before we completely drop our axle, which we're almost ready to do, what we wanna do is disconnect our breather hose just so we don't end up ripping it. But after that is just pulled off of our axle vent tube, what we can do is just lower this down. Now, you wanna try to keep it as even as possible, and then you should start to see your springs move around. And then once we get it to a point where it's low enough, what we can do is just remove our springs as well as our isolators.So, before we go ahead and install our new Rubicon Express suspension, I did wanna tell you guys a little bit more about it, and what benefits that you're gonna see out of this new kit that you're not seeing with your factory suspension.Now, right off the bat, you can tell that your strings are gonna be a lot taller. This is where you're gonna get all of that added height. So, you're getting a 2.5-inch larger spring, but they also are gonna remain very comfortable for comfortable driving. Now, you're also getting a number of different suspension parts in this kit that are going to accommodate for that added two and a half inches.So, we are getting new sway bar end links for the rear, and we're gonna be moving our rear sway bar end links up to the front to accommodate for that added lift. And we're also getting new bump stop extensions, which is going to prevent any tire to fender contact because we have that added height.Now, the big difference about these two lift kits, or between the two suspension systems is gonna be with your shock. So, you have two big groups as far as shocks go, and that's gonna be a hydraulic shock and a gas-charged shock. Now, this new option by Rubicon Express is going to be a gas-charged shock, and your factory is gonna be hydraulic.So, a hydraulic shock is going to feel very comfortable, very fluid-like, and it's perfect for a factory suspension. It's perfect for daily driving applications. However, it is susceptible to shocks fade over time when it's worked really hard. So, that's gonna be foaming forming inside the shock, or bubbling inside the shock, which is called cavitation.Now, when you move over to a gas-charged shock like the one here by Rubicon Express, that's gonna offer a lot more performance, it's going to reduce shock fade over time, and it's going to be a lot more durable. So, this is definitely a big step-up from our factory hydraulic twin-tube shock. However, it's still going to be a twin-tube shock, so it is gonna be a little bit more cost-effective than the other monotube shocks that are included in this kit.Now, you have two choices within this lift kit. You can go with the twin-tube shocks like this, which is going to be the more cost-effective choice, and then you can step up to a monotube shock, which is going to be a little bit more expensive. However, it's gonna bring a little bit more performance to the table. Now, nonetheless, this is going to be a huge upgrade for replacement parts as well as performance, so let's go ahead and install our new lift kit.So, our first step to this install is to install our bump stop extensions. Now, this is gonna be placed on this pad on our axle, and then we can make sure that the offset is facing forward and secure it down with our provided hardware. There's gonna be two pre-drilled holes in this bump stop path already. So, we can secure this hardware down, and then we can tighten it down. So, after it's threaded on, what we can do is take a 9/16-inch wrench and socket and tighten down. Then we can repeat that process on the other side.So, what we can do now is install our new spring, making sure that we have our factory isolator up on top. And again, you might have to tinker with the axle height in order to get the new spring in. Then what you can do is just raise that back up a little bit so it's staying in place, and we can get the other spring in place.So, once you have both springs in, what we can do is just raise up the axle, put a little bit of pressure on them, and then move on to our sway bar end links. So, what we can do now is attach our sway bar end link to our sway bar. Now, we are going to be using the provided hardware with this, just because we do not have a stud on here anymore, then we can pull our sway bar down. We may wanna raise up the axle a little bit, and then we can secure the bottom.So, now that we have our axle where we want it, we can secure that bottom bolt using the factory hardware, and then we can go ahead and tighten those up. So, now we can tighten up this top bolt with a 19-millimeter socket and wrench, and then move down to the bottom bolt with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. And we can do that same thing on the other side.So, what we're gonna do next is move on to our track bar bracket. Now, I usually disconnect our track bar at the axle just so we can get our axle to drop low enough to get in our new springs. Now, our track bar bracket is going to be attached to the frame side of our track bar, so we do have to remove that bolt. So, I'm gonna use a 7/8-inch wrench as well as that 21-millimeter socket that we used before, and we can secure the axle side down so we can install our frame side bracket.So, I'm gonna loosen this up with that 7/8-inch wrench as well as the 21-millimeter socket. Just be careful because, once you loosen this up, this will swing down. All right. I'm just gonna let that drop out of the way so we can completely take this bolt out. So, what I'm gonna do now is just reconnect this to our axle side bracket just using the factory bolt and the factory flag nut. We don't wanna tighten anything down just yet because we don't want that kind of stress on our bushings. We're gonna take this down once it's on the ground. We're gonna thread on there. We'll let that stay in place, and install our track bar bracket.So, what we can do next is install our track bar bracket. Now, we wanna make sure that this end is over, sitting up against the frame because we are gonna secure this down with that bolt hole here on our bracket to our frame bracket. So, what we're gonna do is attach this to our frame bracket. This is gonna slide into the frame bracket, and then we can secure the top down with the provided hardware.This is gonna be the smaller hardware. Then we can grab our new provided hardware for that bolt, slide our sleeve in between so this bracket doesn't collapse when we tighten this down. We're gonna have to wiggle it around to get that through. You could take a dead blow to it. So, if it's being a little fussy, we can just take a dead blow, send that on through, and then secure it down on the back with the supplied hardware.Now, since these are in place, what we can do is tighten these down before we go ahead and get our factory track bar installed. So, I'm gonna start off with the new track bar bolt. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket and that same 7/8-inch wrench. Then we can move up to the top and use a 19-millimeter socket and wrench. Now, we can go ahead and take down this top bolt with the 19-millimeter wrench.I'm also gonna use a 3/4-inch or 19-millimeter swivel socket just because there's not a lot of room up here with our sway bar. So, what we can do now is just reconnect our track bar if it lines up. Now, if it's not gonna line up, what we can do is just put the Jeep back down on its own weight and we can reconnect it that way. However, we're gonna try to get it to line up.So, I'm going to take a dead blow and just try to get it into place, see if we can line up the track bar. So, it looks like it's a little bit off. What we're gonna do is just leave it in place on the bracket. And when we put the Jeep down under its own weight, we will be able to shimmy the rear end and get that bolt in. But for now, we can move on to our shocks.So, before we go ahead and install our shocks on our Jeep, what we need to do is install the bar pins as well as the metal sleeves into our shocks before we can go ahead and install them. So, you are gonna need a vice in order to do this just because you will have to press in the bar pins. And I would recommend to have some PB B'laster or some grease to help those bar pins, as well as the metal sleeves, go through the bushings a little bit easier.Now, you also wanna make sure that you install the boots that are gonna protect the shaft first before you go ahead and install the bar pins because it will be difficult to wiggle those on after you have the bar pins installed. It's not gonna have enough space to do so. So, what we're gonna do first is install the boots, then we can go ahead and install the bar pins, as well as our metal sleeves.So, there is gonna be a larger opening and a smaller opening. We wanna make sure that we put this arm with the larger opening up at the top. We can squeeze this over the outlet. Then once that's on and in place, what we can do is line this up with our shock body, wiggle that on. And we are going to be provided with zip ties, so I'm just going to put that in place, then can tighten down that zip tie. And the other side should stay on because there is a larger attachment on the bottom there. Then what we can do is snip off the excess, and then we can install our bar pin.So, I'm just gonna take a pair of side cutters and snip off the excess, and then what we can do is put that aside. So, for the bottom of the shock, the shock body is gonna go towards the bottom, so we're gonna press our metal sleeve into this bottom outlet here. I'm just using a little lithium grease just to help out the sleeve, but you should be able to push these in by hand. If not, if it's a little too hard, you will be able to use that vice. But those fit in just like that, and then we can move over to the vice for our bar pins. Now, I'm still gonna use some of that grease.Now, you wanna make sure that you're not ripping this rubber bushing, and that's why I just put a lot of grease in there because you wanna make sure that you're not ripping that. If paint chips off the edge, that's okay, but you don't want to damage that bushing. So, now I'm going to put the bar pin up against the vice, and then make sure there is enough room up at the top for the bar pin to squeeze out from.So, if the boot comes off like this, that's okay. Right now, the shock is at its extended length. So, once these are on the Jeep, this won't come off. This will be a little bit closer to this eyelid up here, so you don't have to worry about that. All right. So, after that's in, we can repeat that process for our other three shocks. So, even to be safe, if you do have an extra zip tie, I would recommend to pop that over this edge. If not, it's okay. Once there's pressure on the shocks, it shouldn't fling out of place.So, while we're doing to our shocks, we wanna set our front ones up as well. So, we're gonna be using those same metal sleeves, just push those in with a little bit of grease. And then we can flip them around and install our boots. So, this is gonna be the same. The larger part is gonna go on the shock body, and then the smaller part is gonna go around the top. Now, again, if you want to put a zip tie around this just to keep it in place, you can. And then we can do the same thing for our other shock.So, now we can install our rear shocks. What I like to do is put one bolt in place, usually the harder one to reach. Usually, I'd pick the harder one to reach, and then we can install the top of our shock, hook the one part of the bar pin on that bolt, and then install the other bolt. So, once those are both threaded in, what we can do now is tighten it down with that same 16-millimeter swivel socket and 15-inch extension.So, what we can do now is line up the bottom of our shock and reinstall that with our factory hardware. Again, we might have to tinker with the height of the axle in order to get that lined up. And then we can tighten that up with our 18-millimeter socket and wrench. And we can repeat that process on the other side. So, the last thing that we have to button up in the rear is gonna be our brake lines.Now, this kit does not come with brake line drop brackets. And when the axle is at full droop, it is going to overextend this brake line in the rear because of that two and a half inches of lift. Now, what I did was fab up a brake line bracket. I just took the piece of metal and drilled two holes in it. Now, brake line brackets are very inexpensive, so I would recommend to outsource for those. However, if you can't outsource for those, you can fab up a bracket really quickly. So, what I'm gonna do is just attach our drop line bracket.So, now what I'm gonna do is attach the top hole at our factory mounting location, and then we can attach the bottom to our break line bracket. Now, we just need to drop down a little bit just so there's some extra slack in the soft line because you don't want to rip this soft line. If you overextend that, you will have a leaking soft line, which is not good because you will have squishy brakes. So, I'm just taking a bolt and a flat washer, and then I'm gonna secure a flat washer and a nut on the other side. And then we can tighten those up when a 10-millimeter socket and a 10-millimeter wrench. And we can do the same thing for the other side.So, now that we're up in the front, we're gonna do the same thing with the axle in just a second, but we wanna get our splash guard out of the way. So, I'm gonna take a trim removal tool and just pop out these series of clips, and this is just gonna give us some more room to work with. All right. And then we can get this out of the way so that gives us a bunch of much room to work with.So, after we have our splash guard off, what we're gonna do next is support our axle. I have to pole jacks on either side of our axle, and then we can go ahead and take off our sway bar end links. I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter swivel socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. And then just like on the rear sway bar end links, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter wrench to hold that stud still and an 18-millimeter socket to remove that nut on the other side.So, what we can do now since we're in the front is disconnect our track bar at the axle side. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket as well as a 5-inch extension in order to remove that bolt. All right. So, make sure you grab that flag nut because we'll have to reuse that later, and then we can move on to our shocks.So, we can move on to removing our lower shock bolt. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter swivel socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. And, again, you might have to tinker with the axle height, move it up or down in order to get that bolt out. There we go. Now we can move up to the top.So, our next step is to remove the nut on the stud that's on the top of our shock. Now, you do have a nut here, which we can keep the shock body still with with a 16-millimeter wrench, and then I'm gonna take a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench and remove that hardware on the top there. After that's off, we can remove our shock, and make sure that you grab your hardware that's on top because we'll be replacing that.So, while we are in this area, what we're gonna do is disconnect our brake line as well as the brake line on the bottom of our spring perch. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to remove the frame brake line bracket. This one is very similar to the back. We can unhook it from that frame there. This is just gonna give us a little bit of slack, and then we can move down to the bottom.So, now we can remove the bottom one from the bottom of our spring perch here. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket as well as a 1/4-inch drive ratchet, just because there's not a lot of room here. And we'll actually be removing this to give a little bit more slack in our brake line because of that two and a half inches of height. So, we won't have to outsource or make a brake line bracket for up here, all we have to do is remove this bottom part, and that'll give us a little bit more of some brake line to work with. So, all you have to do is pull that out, and then we can do the same thing on the other side.So, on your passenger side, you are gonna have a battery box here. This has no structural integrity. So if you do want to trim this or even break a piece off just to gain access to the top of your shock, you can do that without damaging any structural integrity of the actual box here. So, I am going to use those same tools in order to get this off.So, what we can do now is lower our axle down now that nothing is really attached to remove our springs. So, you wanna try, again, to keep it as even as possible. So, you just wanna keep an eye on your brake lines and your breather tube. Your breather tube is on the driver side, over on the side of your pumpkin here, on your diff. I just removed it just like the back when you just pulled off that barb there. And then once we drop this down low enough, we'll be able to pop out our spring.So, the driver side of our axle isn't dropping low enough, and that's because our drive shaft is still keeping it pretty much in place. Now, we do need to drop that down a lot lower to get our new spring in and our factory spring out. So, what I'm gonna do is disconnect our drive shaft. So, I'm just going to make a mark on both of the flanges here so we make sure that we line it up in the correct orientation when we put it back on. And then I'm gonna go ahead and take a 15-millimeter socket, and an extension, as well as my impact, and take those four bolts off.So, you may have to raise up your axle a little bit just to get your driveshaft to turn since it is resting on the exhaust, and then we'll be able to access the lower bolts and remove them. So, after those bolts are removed, what we can do is break this away from the flange, right? And then I recommend to take a bungee cord and hang this so you're not stressing out the driveshaft. Now, we can completely lower our axle and take out that other factory spring.So, as you can tell now, our axle is lowering a lot more, our spring is freeing up. That will give us a bunch of room to take that out and put our new spring back in. So, what we can do next is put our bump stop extension on our spring perch. We wanna make sure that we have a pre-drilled hole before we put in our spring. So, I'm gonna take a center punch and make a mark, and then we can go ahead and drill a pilot hole with a 3/16-inch drill bit and step up to a 5/16-inch drill bit.So, what we're gonna do now is install our new spring, making sure that our factory isolator is up at the top, and also that we have our bump stop extension inside our spring. All right. So, once that's on there, what we can do is, kind of, set that in the place that it needs to be, then we can lift up on the axle a little for a little bit of compression on the spring.Now, before we lift it up all of the way, what we're gonna do is secure our bump stop extension down with the provided 3/8-inch self-cutting bolt. So, what I'm gonna do is drop this down on in, make sure that it's lining up with the 5/16-inch hole that we've just drilled, and then we can take a 14-millimeter socket and ratchet, give a little pressure on this, and tighten that up. After that's all tightened up, what we can do is repeat that process on the other side.So, before we go ahead and install our new shocks, what I wanna do is get this brake line bracket out of the way. Like I mentioned before, we are going to discard this, just because this, being attached to the bottom, is not gonna give us enough length in our soft line, and we don't wanna damage that. So, getting rid of this is gonna give us some extra slack.So, what I'm gonna do is grab a trim removal tool and just pop these two clips that are holding in our ABS line off of our bracket. So, what I'm gonna do is just cut this little clip here that's holding in our ABS line, just make sure that you're not cutting the ABS line. Just wanna get that out of the way, and then we can pull it off of the other tie-downs here. And then that is completely out of the way. We can just tuck that up into our spring for right now.So, what I'm gonna do next is just take a pair of vice grips and attach this to our shock bracket. Now, this is just gonna keep it secure so when we make a notch in the back of the bracket with a cut-off wheel and then we try to peel it back, it's not gonna move around a whole bunch. I'm just lifting up the axle a little bit just to get some extra slack here. All right.So, that's good for now. What we can do is grab our cut-off wheel and a pair of safety glasses and make a notch in the top of this bracket. Now, this is a soft line. You wanna make sure that you're not cutting the soft line. You will have to replace it if you do accidentally cut it. We're not going to go completely through this metal, we just wanna make a little bit of a cut just to break down the structural integrity of the bracket because it is pretty hard to peel it back while it's intact like that.So, now that the brake line is free, what we can do is just leave that alone, leave that there. We can completely discard this bracket, it might be hot, and then we can do that same thing on the other side. So, what we can do now is install our shock. Now, I'm gonna start up at the top. You wanna make sure that you have a cup washer as well as your bushing placed on top of your shock tower. And then you also wanna make sure that you have another rubber bushing and a cup washer down at the bottom.So, I'm gonna place this up on top first before we send our shock through, just because there's not a lot of room in here. Again, if we need to trim some of this battery box away, it can become a little bit helpful. Then what we can do is grab our shock and send that on through, making sure that you have the nut in your hand because we will need to secure this down in just a second.So, once that's in place, what we can do is start to tighten that up. I'm using a 3/4-inch ratcheting wrench. You could also use a 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench. So, after the top of our shock is secure, what we can do is move to the bottom using our factory bolt. Again, you might have to tinker with the height of the axle in order to get it in. And then we can tighten that up with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. And then we can secure it on our break line while we're over here. So, reusing that factory bolt, we can go ahead and resecure that brake line bracket on the frame using a 10-millimeter socket. And then we can repeat that process on the other side.So, our breather tube hose is a little bit short right now. What I'm gonna do is take this little clip out of the bracket here, on the brake line, and move it down so it can reach the diff. We're just gonna relocate it down a little bit further. So, now it should be able to reach the diff without ripping. Now, you can move these up if you can, put those back into place. Now, you can extend this as well, but it should reach.So, before we move on to our sway bar end links, what we're gonna do is rebolt up our drive shaft. So, I'm gonna take this bungee cord off of here. We can line this back up where it needs to be, making sure that that mark on the side. We might have to raise up the axle a little bit just to get this to line up because it is going to hit the exhaust when the axle is fully dropped.So, once we have it lined up, what you wanna do is reinstall those four bolts. But we're going to put a little bit of blue thread locker on there just make sure that they stay in place. So, we can tighten those back up with that 15-millimeter socket. Last but not least, we can move on to our sway bar end links. So, what we can do now is attach our sway bar end links. So, we're gonna be reusing the ones that we had in the back from the factory because they are longer and this is going to accommodate for that extra height.So, I'm gonna put the stud facing the inside, thread on that nut. So, because we don't have a lot of room between our frame side track bar bracket and our sway bar end link stud, what I'm gonna do is tighten this up right away using that same 19-millimeter wrench to hold the stud still and that 18-millimeter swivel socket to tighten that up.So, after we have that top stud tightened, what we can do is secure down our factory lower bolt. And I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench to tighten that up. And then we can repeat that process on the other side. And then if you want, you can add the included Rubicon Express stickers onto the back of your shocks. You're all set to go. Now we can resecure these track bars.So, now that our tires are on and our Jeep is down on its own weight, what we can do is secure our track bars. So, we're starting with the front. I have somebody in the driver seat. They're gonna turn the wheel back and forth so I can get this lined up. Keep turning it, driver. Stay. So, after the bolt is through and the flag nut's on the other side, we can tighten it down with a 21-millimeter socket, and I'm using that 5-inch extension again, and then we can secure it on the rear track bar.So, now that we're in the back, we're gonna secure down our track bar in the rear, but on the frame side first. So, you can have somebody wiggle the back end to get it in place, and it should thread through. Then we can tighten down that bolt using that 21-millimeter socket and 7/8-inch wrench. So, we can tighten that down. And then we can tighten down the other side on our axle side with the same 21-millimeter socket. Then we can tighten down our axle side with that same 21-millimeter socket since we loosened it up earlier. After that, then you're all set to go.So, after your track bars are resecured, I would recommend to torque everything down, as well as take your Jeep to get an alignment, and then you'll be all set to go. So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install. Make sure you like subscribe for more videos and products like this, and always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Fitment: 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 Details
Rubicon Express RE7141P
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 5 Hours
Mechanical expertise or professional installation required.
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