(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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The Rough Country 2-Inch Lift Kit that we have here today will be for the 2021 and newer non-Badlands or Sasquatch Bronco owners, who are looking for a small lift for both the front and rear to comfortably fit a set of 35-inch tires, or even a set of 37s. Now, this kit will include four steel spacers to be mounted to the top of each coilover. They are backed by a lifetime warranty, and you can grab the entire kit for that mid to high $100 price point.Install, we'll get a three out of three wrenches here on the difficulty meter as there is a fair amount of work involved, but if you hang with me till the very end of the video, I'll walk you through the job and give you a tool breakdown. So, with the 6-gen Bronco release came the anticipation of modifications, and, of course, one of the biggest areas owners were keeping an eye on was the leveling or lift kit category. Now, Rough Country was one of the first to market with their leveling kits, along with their smaller lift kits, such as the 2-incher we're talking about here today.But before we go any further here with this particular video, guys, I do wanna reiterate the fact that this will not apply to the Badlands trim or any Sasquatch package 6-gen Broncos out there because they are equipped with that Bilstein suspension. Now, because those dampers are position-sensitive, this particular lift kit that we have here from Rough Country will interfere with that system, and therefore, if you do wanna lift your Badlands or Sasquatch even further, you're gonna have to consider a different option. But if your Bronco does not have the factory Bilsteins installed, and you are interested in adding roughly 2 inches of lift for both front and rear, here's what you can expect.Now, first and foremost, guys, this is going to be what I like to call a puck-style lift kit, meaning you're gonna remove each coilover, install one of these spacers here on top of that coilover or on top of the assembly before reinstalling everything and buttoning everything up. Now, you do not need to disassemble the coilovers themselves, and you certainly do not need to do any cutting or permanent modification here, which is always a nice thing to point out, as this kit is 100% reversible. Each spacer has been made from CNC-cut steel and is powder-coated in this satin black here, just to help resist any corrosion over the years. Now, the kit does also include all of the necessary hardware and instructions to help you get everything in place.With the kit installed, Rough Country claims that owners will maintain a ride quality that is very similar to stock, and also benefiting from the improved ground clearance of this additional 2 inches of lift. Now, this will also help owners with fitting a larger tire on their Broncos, such as a 35/12.5, for instance. That's the tire that Rough Country is going to recommend the most, but you can even get a 37 on your rig here with those crash bars removed.As always, guys, when modifying your suspension, it is highly recommended to get your Bronco realigned after everything gets bolted up, just to make sure you're not wearing out those tires at an accelerated rate. One of the nice things, though, about this kit is that Rough Country actually does include some alignment specs in their instructions. So, be sure to check those out.Speaking of instructions, now we wanna segue into the install, show you what it takes to get all four spacers here in place on your Bronco at home. Now, this one is going to involve solid amount of work here, guys, including removing those coilovers on all four corners. So, if you don't have the space or the tools to make this happen, you might wanna leave this one in the hands of your local shop. But if you're the type of owner out there who has the tools and the space to get it all done, along with some know-how, well, then hang with me as we get this thing installed right now, and give you some tools needed to get the job done.Tools used to complete this job include a big old hammer, 3/8 cordless impact, 1/2-inch cordless impact, air hammer with chisel attachment, a set of sockets, including a 36-millimeter, 1-1/16, 24-millimeter, 21-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 8-millimeter, and a 10-millimeter. You're also gonna need 1/2-inch swivel, 6-millimeter Allen, 3/8 drive, 21-millimeter wrench, 19-millimeter wrench, 15-millimeter wrench, a pair of pliers, Phillips head screwdriver, metal punch, large pry bar, and finally, a pair of safety glasses.Getting started here today with our Rough Country install, obviously, we need to lift and support the vehicle first, go ahead and get those wheels and tires out of the way to unveil the suspension, of course, right? That's what we're working on here today. That's what we're gonna be talking about for the most part. However, your first step, according to Rough Country, is to get underneath the front end of your Bronco. There's a few 15-millimeter bolts we need to remove in order to get those skid plates out of the way, so we can go ahead and unplug our rack and pinion system first. So, grab your 15-millimeter socket, your gun, or your ratchet, let's get to it.So, with our skid plates down, you can now access your rack and pinion, and these clips or plugs that Rough Country recommends you removing prior to getting started with the install. Pretty simple. You wanna grab a flathead screwdriver, a tiny one. You can kind of pry these guys back, and at that point, that will allow you to unplug the plug from the actual motor. Get your hand in there after you slide that clip out, and you can unplug that. We're gonna grab the other one on the other side as well. All right. There we go. Now we can go ahead and move on to the actual suspension removal.With our rack and pinion unplugged, now we can go ahead and start getting to work removing our factory front suspension, first step, 21-millimeter nut here on our tie rod end. We're gonna remove that first. With our 21-millimeter nut removed, now we can strike the knuckle here with a hammer to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle itself. With the tie rod end free from the knuckle, now we're gonna move to the brake line bracket to single 10-millimeter bolt. You can remove that next. Now we can move to our upper ball joint here. This is an 18-millimeter nut. We can go ahead and remove that next.Now that that 18-millimeter nut's out of the way, we're gonna go ahead and strike the knuckle right here to remove the upper ball joint from the assembly. Next up, we're gonna tackle this lower sway bar nut here, guys. This is a 21-millimeter. Go ahead and grab your gun, and get it off. After our 21-millimeter end length nut has been removed, we're gonna go right next door here to these two 18-millimeter nuts. These secure the lower strut mount assembly to the lower control arm. So, again, just grab your 18-mil, and go ahead and remove these two next. Now we're gonna move to the top of the strut assembly. We have three 15-millimeter nuts that we're gonna remove next. All right, guys, so the strut assembly is just about ready to come out, but before we can do that, we're gonna go ahead and remove this 36-millimeter nut here on the axle side. And at that point, we can separate the axle from the hub assembly, allowing us to remove our strut assembly.So, with our axle nut removed, now we wanna get the axle shaft through the knuckle assembly. To do so, I have an air hammer with a fine tip on the end. The secret is just to get it in that little dimple there, and air-hammer it through the knuckle and hub assembly. So, as you guys can see, we did release the splined end of the axle through the knuckle. Now, I didn't pull it all the way out. The reason I'm doing this is because we don't wanna have too much stress on the CV here where we actually separate the CV at the transfer case. So, again, we just wanna relieve some of that tension by removing that nut, pushing the splined end through, and now we can have more play with our lower control arm.All right, guys, so our strut assembly is almost ready to come out. Two schools of thought here. We can either pry down on our lower control arms to get a little bit more space to yank the assembly out, or the best way to do it, I think the easier way, is to hammer out these two lower strut studs holding the strut assembly into the lower control arm. At that point, with those out of the way, the strut assembly will slide right out. Well, after a few mighty hacks at this thing, like Babe Ruth, we finally got it to unseat from the lower portion of the strut. So I got my trusty air hammer back out. We're gonna finish it off. And here you go. That guy's ready to come out. We're gonna repeat that process on the other side.All right. So, after a good beat down, that second bolt is about ready to come out. We have our air hammer. We're just gonna push it the way through. With those two lower bolts removed, now we can grab our strut assembly and pull it from our Bronco. Now, before we can get to work installing our Rough Country spacer on top of our assembly, we need to remove what they call the roll pin here. Just grab a pair of pliers, it should come right out. We have our Rough Country strut spacer here in hand. We're getting ready to install it on the strut assembly. There are two different holes here on the spacer itself. The larger of the two will be for the actual assembly and the factory studs. There are smaller holes here on the top portion. Those are gonna be used with the included 10-millimeter studs.Now, what you wanna do is go ahead and get your stud into the hole here. There might be a little powder coat in the hole you might need to clean out. We're gonna take one of our included nuts, thread that into place, and then I'm gonna use my 3/8 impact and a 15-millimeter socket. We're actually gonna pull this through the actual spacer using our gun here to help give us the leverage we need. Now we're just gonna repeat that process for the final two holes and we can get our stud in place. We actually use a couple of washers this time around to help pull that last little bit of our stud through. Fifteen-mil. And we'll do our final one. Now we're ready to install it onto our strut assembly.At this point, our strut assembly from Rough Country is fully prepped and ready to go. So, we're going to install it on top of our factory strut assembly, and then we're gonna reuse our factory hardware to secure the strut spacer to the assembly itself. Once you get these all started by hand, there's not a ton of space, unfortunately, due to the spacer for a big old socket. So, chances are I'll probably have to go back in there with a wrench and tighten them up. All right. So, for this one, I'm actually gonna grab a thin-wall chrome socket that would actually give us enough space to kind of torque this down. All right. With that final nut tightened up, we are now ready to reinstall our assembly.Now that we have our strut assembly ready to rock and roll, guys, we're gonna reinstall it into the fender here. We've got a 15-millimeter nut ready to go. So, let's get this in place. Go ahead and throw a nut up top just to hold it in place for now. And repeat that process with the other two nuts. I got my 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench here, I'm just gonna tighten these up. All right. So, I'm gonna leave just a little bit of play in there, so we can kind of work this into place later on. With our three top nuts on and finger-tight, now I'm gonna move to the bottom strut bolts. Rough Country does include two brand new bolts to be used in place of the press bolts that we just removed. So, I'm gonna actually use a big pry bar here because it does take some manipulation of the lower control arm to get it in place so we can get those bolts through. Also gonna use a punch to help hold the strut in place while I grab my hardware.All right, guys, so we got our first lower bolt in here. We had to raise the lower control arm a bit, use a hole punch to kind of line the bolt holes up a bit better. But with one end, I'm gonna get a nut on it, and then repeat that process on the other side. So, now that we have our bolt going through our lower control arm for the strut, I'm gonna tighten it up with a 19-millimeter open-ended wrench on the top and then an 18-millimeter socket here on the bottom. Now, we're just gonna repeat that process over here, and because we tighten this guy down, it made our holes line up a heck of a lot better. So we're gonna slide our second bolt through, get a nut on the bottom, and tighten it up. Now we can work on reassembling our knuckle area.Next up, we're gonna work on getting our end link back into the lower control arm. Certainly helps if you have a buddy. You might need to loosen some bolts up along the way to get more movement. I got a nice, big pry bar here. I'm gonna get it between the sway bar and the lower control arm mount, and see if we can push up enough to get the clearance we need. Here we go. Now we got it through. So, now I'm just gonna put a little bit more torque on this and get our nut on. I'll come back later and tighten that up with our 21-mil.Next up, we're gonna get our knuckle back into position here, we'll try to connect our tie rod end, and we also wanna make sure we get our splined end of the axle, or that front CV through the hub itself. So, go ahead and get it back in position. Get our tie rod end through just to hold the knuckle in place, and we'll put our nut on that. Next up, I'm just gonna reinstall my axle nut here and get that torqued down. Got our big 36-millimeter socket, let's get it torqued.Now, before we go ahead and tackle our upper ball joint and control arm, get that into the knuckle, I wanna go back and just tighten up our tie rod end real quick and the sway bar end link as well. I'm also gonna come back and tighten up our end link bolt here as well. Now, this is an Allen bolt, so if you put a socket and an impact on this, you will end up spinning the actual boot here, any danger ripping that. So, go ahead and grab yourself a 6-millimeter Allen, along with a 21-millimeter wrench, and we'll just go ahead and tighten this up.Next up, we are gonna tackle our upper ball joint here and our control arm. Again, big pry bar. Leverage is going to be your friend. I like to get it up in the spring hat there, kind of pry down. As you can see, that's gonna give you the leverage needed to get the ball joint through the top of your knuckle. Of course, have your nut ready to go, so when you get that in place, you can get a few threads in. Now, we're gonna come right back to that 18-millimeter nut we just got in place from our upper control arm and tighten it down.All right, guys, so we're just about done the front end here. We just gotta go back and make sure our three 15-millimeter nuts are tight up top. We're also gonna go ahead and resecure our brake line, and then that should cover it. Final step, again, is gonna be reattaching our brake line bracket with a 10-millimeter bolt. Very low torque on my 3/8 impact. All right. Now you can go ahead and reinstall your wheel and move to the rear.All right, guys, so now we're gonna get started with the rear uninstall of your factory coilover here. A couple of steps, including removal of one of the track bar bolts, which we're gonna tackle first. So, let's go. Again, we got our 24-millimeter socket here on our 1/2-inch impact. We can remove this bolt now. Next up, Rough Country tells us to remove this small little 8-millimeter bolt here because we are gonna sag the rear end a bit, and therefore, we don't wanna put any unwanted stress on the ABS wiring.Next up, we're gonna support the rear axle and begin removal of the lower strut mount bolt. Now, if you're doing this on the floor, maybe with some jack stands, you can go ahead and use your floor jack to support the rear end, give you a little bit of movement there. In our case, since we are on the two-post lift, I got a pole jack that we're gonna place underneath the rear end to give us a little bit of movement, and ultimately support the axle itself. So, let's go.Next up, we got our 1-1/16 socket on our 1/2-inch impact. We're gonna remove the lower strut mount bolt next. Next up, we're gonna remove these two plastic Phillips head clips that retain the inner fender liner on this portion of the fender because we gotta get behind there for our three 15-millimeter nuts. With those clips removed, now we can go ahead and fold this back to reveal our three 15-millimeter nuts. I got a ratcheting open-ended wrench here, we're gonna go ahead remove those now. All right. With that third and final nut removed, you can now grab ahold of your coilover and pull it from the truck.So, we have our spacer here from Rough Country for the rear. All the spacers are identical, so don't worry about mixing anything up in that regard. Again, the larger holes are gonna be for the coilover side. Smaller holes are gonna be for our 10-millimeter studs. Now, these things are powder-coated. So, if you do encounter a little powder-coating within the holes themselves and your bolts don't go through, you might need to hog it out a little bit, but that is a case-by-case basis. So we got our stud, throw it through. A couple of schools of thought here. You can either take this to a vice, hammer it in place. It is a press-to-fit-stud, or in my case, I'm gonna use some extra washers, put them on there. I'm gonna use a nut to pull the stud through. And repeat that for the two other studs. And our third and final stud. And the washers are necessary because you will run out of thread. All right. With all the studs in place, now we can install this onto our coilover.Now, before we can actually install the spacer on top of the coilover, we need to ditch this factory roll pin. So, just basically grab a pair of pliers. I like to give it a whack first to kind of loosen it up, and then it simply comes right out. All right. Now we can actually grab our spacer, we're gonna get it in place. And now we're gonna reuse the factory nuts to secure the spacer to the top of the coilover. I like to get them all three started by hand first. And once in place... This is a bit of a tight surface here, so if you have a thin-walled socket, definitely be a great opportunity for it. Otherwise, you can just use a 15-millimeter open-ended wrench. I like to do a little bit of time. Otherwise, the spacer itself gets a little crooked and prohibits you from actually securing it all the way down. Now we're ready to reinstall the coilover back in the Bronco.All right. So, again, we've got our assembly here. We're just gonna lift it up into place. Not exactly light, but make sure you have a nut in your hand so you can go ahead and get one started once the actual coilover is through the holes. All right, guys, so now that we have a nut in place to hold the coilover assembly in place, I'm gonna come back with my lower strut bolt here and just get this on for now finger-tight. Something we found out is we can actually ditch our pole jack because that's gonna give us the play needed to actually make this puppy align with that 2 inches of level on top. So, get the bolt in, and we can move on to the next step.All right. Now let's get our track bar in place. Next step is we wanna get that track bar realigned with our bolt hole down here. This is certainly gonna take some backyard ingenuity. In our case, I like to use a strap, go one end of the track bar, hook it down to the other end of the actual rear end, and then just tighten it up and hopefully bring that track bar in place enough to get our bolt hole to align. You can see it moving now. I got my metal punch here, I'm just gonna try to pull the hole a little bit more center.All right, guys, so now our bolt is in and started. I'm gonna have to go ahead and convince it to come through a little bit more, but we do have our nut here. There's a little slot. I don't know if you guys can see that really well, but basically, the nut's gonna live in there so it won't turn when you're tightening everything down. Just make sure you slide the nut into that as opposed to resting it on top. Now we can go ahead and throw that 8-millimeter bolt right back in the top of the diff, and we'll tighten it down. Now we're gonna use our 1-1/16 inch socket to tighten down our lower strut mount bolt. Now, we're gonna come back to our pole jack to actually give us just about a half-inch to an inch of lift so we can grab those last couple of threads on the top of our coilover. So, get this underneath the axle.All right. Last but not least, guys, we're gonna go ahead and grab our last two remaining 15-millimeter nuts, and we're gonna go ahead and install them on the top of the coilover. Be careful not to drop those. Once they're started, go ahead and grab your 15-millimeter wrench and send them home. All right. Our last step back here is to resecure our plastic clips holding the fender liner in place. All right, guys, almost beer time, I promise, but let's not forget to plug back in our rack and pinion and secure the red clips. Plug in and push forward. Repeat that process over here. Plug in, push forward. Now we can resecure our skid plate.All right. I like to go around the tow hooks first here. There we go. You can throw a bolt in finger-tight for now just so it doesn't fall down on you. Do the same on this side. Now, we're gonna come back to the back of the skid plate, we wanna make sure the big one goes over the little one. Go ahead and line up our holes and start these bolts. All right. Throw our last couple of bolts in finger-tight. Grab my cordless impact and just send these home. And with that last bolt tightened up, that's gonna wrap up this review and install of Rough Country's 2-Inch Lift Kit, available for your 2021 Bronco at home.Guys, keep in mind, whatever steps we completed here, both front and rear for the Bronco, do need to be completed or repeated on the passenger side. And as always, whenever you modify your suspension like this, definitely make sure you get an alignment done so you're not chewing up your brand new expensive tires. Hey guys, we hope you enjoyed this review and install, and keep in mind, for more cool products and videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
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Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
|Lift Height||2.00 Inch|
|Lift Kit Type||Suspension Lift|
|Lift Kit Includes Shocks||Shocks Not Included|
Rough Country 40400
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
What's in the Box
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